/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>want to make a case for my clearance sale micro screw driver set
>wake up to this
Any time I print something in PETG more than 10 layers high it always ends up like this.

WHY!

>>1990700
When I switched to glass my PLA wouldn't stick past an inch or so. I started using Aquanet hair spray applied hot to the glass and it stopped. Seems to me you need to start using an adhesive or messing around with your first layer settings since PETG is a bit weird about it.

Also doesn't PETG bond with glass and rip chunks out? You got blinder clips holding your shit down so I'm guessing that's glass and I don't see any blue tape.

>>1990696
>Pastebin MIA, Need Backup Copy
https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>/3DPG/ Pastebin v3.2 - Last updated 12-8-2020

>>1990705
I have no problem with prints not sticking. I use hairspray in pretty much the same way you said, applied hot etc etc.

This is an issue of the motors skipping steps, but damned if I know the cause of it. Only happens with PETG. Never had this problem printing with PLA on the same printer.

>>1990709
Oh, I see it now. The base layer is still stuck to the bed in the right spot, the printer just started walking off to the side. That is strange and I haven't the foggiest idea what could cause that.

>>1990709
Do you print PETG with part cooling on or off?

>>1990712
Part cooling completely off.

>>1990713
That's the issue then. Do the following experiment: Hold the part cooling fan in place with your finger and turn the cooling on. Do you hear a fan spinning up?

You see, the part cooling fan and the board cooling fan always run at the same speed on the E3. So 0% print cooling also means 0% board cooling. With no cooling the stepper drivers will overheat and skip steps.
The fix is to cut the connector off the board fan and screw it in the terminal for the hotend fan, as that one runs all the time. This fix is a must for printing ABS, PETG or any other material with no cooling.

>>1990713
>>1990709
Do you have a fan shroud? At least stock Ender shrouds leak the heater airstream down onto the part.
Do you have an enclosure? Drafts can be fucking you up slightly. If you don't have an enclosure, you could try enabling draft shield.

Proton zero is on sale on aliexpress for 100 dollary doos
Y/N?

>>1990718
>the part cooling fan and the board cooling fan always run at the same speed on the E3
>With no cooling the stepper drivers will overheat and skip steps
jesus fucking christ. What chink decided that was a good idea? Yeah I'll get to that right away. Thanks anon.

>>1990723
For that price, you can at the very least buy it for its parts

>1990718
>the part cooling fan and the board cooling fan always run at the same speed
New bread, almost new year and we already have sub 70 IQ posts like this
It's all so tiresome

Does anyone here have experience compiling Marlin for the Ender 3 V2?

I'm trying to just compile my firmware with BLTouch support and it always fails to compile due to errors in dwin.cpp and rotary_encoder.cpp

>dwin.cpp:1167:58: error: 'HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY' was not declared in this scope

>rotary_encoder.cpp:136:39: error: 'ENCODER_5X_STEPS_PER_SEC' was not declared in this scope

I have no fucking clue what to do about this

>>1990745
Start from a clean example configuration, compile to see if it works and then start changing stuff to fit your machine.

>>1990744
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvyesgYLwQk&feature=youtu.be
u wot m8

>>1990748

The current Marlin version from their github site plus the E3V2 example configuration also fails even if I change nothing at all.

>>1990750
>if some bum on youtube says some retarded thing that someone here says too then it must be true
Guess where he borrowed that idea from in the first place
Also
>being a CHEP shill

>>1990718
>>1990724
That was a fairly quick mod once I found the right size hex bit. Thanks anon. Doing a reprint with the board fan on 100% all the time when the printer is on.

>>1990760
Not that you really care because it just seems like you're being purposely stupid at this point, but I just confirmed it is indeed the case, atleast on my ender 3 version. Turning the parts cooling fan off also shuts the board fan off because they're tied into the same PWM channel.

Fucking chinks.

>>1990760
here's another vid just by googling "ender 3 board fan"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxBnP4NRoM8

Please anon, it's almost the new year like you said earlier. Try not to be retarded.

>>1990772
fucking amazing how this piece of shit managed to gain this large a foothold

i bought my ender because the open frame seemed like its portable and easy access. The thing i regret is getting lumped in with the rest of the creality community who praise this garbage company
>tfw should have build a p3

>>1990752
>>1990745
If you're using VSCode with the platformio thing try deleting the vscode directory in your user directory, unistall vscode, then reinstall it, reinstall platformio and clone again your repository

>>1990766
So I'm purposely stupid if I don't mindlessly accept anything I read on the internet as true?
A single moment of logical thinking disproves your point: there is zero reason to have the board fan running only when you are cooling the print. Your claim that it does this is just a load of crap. Stop spreading disinformation here.
Also I'm not going to give you 2 (You)s, so I'll just say it here. You can find me 50 youtube bums that say the same shit, it's absolutely worthless. I too can go on youtube and talk whatever shit I want in front of a smartphone camera, it's not that hard.

>1990781
K mate. Happy new year you dumb nigger.

Let me know when you topple the Illuminati for spreading these horrible conspiracy theories about ender 3 board fan miswirings.

This little badge is going to stay glued onto this ender 3 until the day it dies.

>>1990793
they should put this on the ali sellspage desu

>>1990777
I bought it because it was the cheapest printer with a fairly large build area. It's fairly decent yeah but shit like this where it's a ticking time bomb of fried stepper drivers if you print anything other than PLA with it is why I don't trust the chinks. What purpose does it serve to have the board cooling fan plugged into PWM in the first place? None, and yet here we are. And to top it off it's on the same channel as the fan that gets shut off for anything other than PLA. Fuckin' great. Wonder how many driver boards fried from E3 owners making the jump from PLA to PETG/ABS and just mindlessly replacing it without fixing the original issue?

>>1990723
N
Proton zero is overall worse than the original proton. the only 'benefit' it has is that it's cheap. Small bed size, bad resolution.

>>1990859
Fuck, Photon, not Proton.

>>1990859
What would you recommend instead as the best budget sla?

>>1990778

This is such fucking bullshit. I did what you said, got the Marlin firmware and the E3V2 sample configuration. Basically stopped to see if it would compile after every change and it worked just fine. Just had to change a little bit of code in rotary_encoder.cpp.

So, finally I compile and flash it on the printer. After flashing the display was blank and octoprint couldn't establish a serial connection anymore. Fucking hell.

Anyone have experience with this type of tool changer system?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jGilt5ijQo

Im seriously considering getting an ender 5 and hacking it.

>>1990868
regular photon ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Started printing again after using some new slicer presets. Now I have a new problem I didn't have before.

Something will print for maybe 1-2 hours and then the whole build starts sliding. It happened with a coin, so I added a skirt. It kept sliding, so I added a raft. I was getting irritated so I did it with a cube and it picked right up off the bed. I'm printing at 235/85 and I'm at a loss for what to do other than just gluestick the bed.

>>1990913
Slow down your print speed and make sure belts are tight and that the eccentric nuts are dialed in properly.

>>1990913

I had the same problem manifesting itself within the first few layers though. I upped both bed and nozzle temp, made sure to lower printing speed on the first couple layers, turned off part cooling as well and finally I went and made super double-y sure that the bed (glass in my case) was clean. Haven't had problems since

>>1990913
Hair spray if its PETG

Anyone have any experience with running solidworks in a vm? I really want to get away from windows and SW is the only thing keeping me on it.
>why not dual boot
Heard bad things about windows fucking up linux installs. Could be bullshit, not sure.
>use freecad
I have, didn't care for it.

>>1990998
>vm
Not the same but i ran creo in a vm, as unstable as creo is it crashed twice as often. It was an old creo, not sure if new cad software check for virtualization but i would think so. I tried a lot of expensive software in a vm but they all checked virtualization.

I would get a smaller 128Gb ssd just for windows plus solid and pick in bios where to boot from.

Well it's better, still completely fucked, but better.

>>1991009
Going to try enabling z hopping. Maybe it's skipping during a rapid move?

>>1990700
Those are huge layer shifts. Maybe your linear bearings or rods are fucked up, check/clean/lube them?

I guess another possibility is the nozzle crashed into the print somehow if it only happens on PETG.

>>1991014
Everything moves smoothly. Along with z hop I'm reducing the flow rate to 95%. I did notice some boogers on the first layer. Maybe it's somehow building up and crashing into those?

does the skr 1.4 turbo need those external drivers like all hte install videos put on them? I need to get this piece of shit up and going enough to print the bltouch mount.

>>1991016
boogers dont cause layershift, the nozzle melts right through that
lowering flow on pla is a good idea anyway

did you tension the belt?

>>1991013
A too hot stepper can also miss steps, not just the drivers. What's your voltage for X and Y?

>>1991023
This is PETG, not PLA.

>>1991026
No fucking clue fren. I'm running the print again but if you could tell me which wires are the voltage supply on the servos I could measure them with a multimeter.

>>1991031
You measure between a tiny trimpot next to the driver and the negative of the 24v supply. Put the positive probe right on the trimpot to measure.
For reference my silent board came with all drivers set at 1.2v, which is overkill for the smaller 34mm steppers used for movement. The extruder one is bigger and can take more.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#steppers
Read here for more details on the procedure.
Ideally you'd want to perform all calibration procedures described on that site to ensure maximum quality and reliability.

>>1991033
I'm two layers in, the printer is still laying down the base layers so it's alot of diagonal back and forth. Felt the motors themselves and they seem slightly cooler than blood temperature. The room the printer is in is around 65F. So I dont think the servos overheating is the issue. I did fix the board fan not coming on earlier, but I'll only find out if that's the issue maybe an hour into the print when the board has time to heat soak the enclosure. I wasn't in the house during the second print.

What kind of shroud can I use with this?

>>1991063
Any kind you like, print one out.

>>1991063
>asking what part he should use for his space-age manufacturing equipment
bruh just make one lol

>>1991155
Already working on it

>>1990760
>being a CHEP shill
>not simping for Dr VAX

>>1990777
think how i feel with this nigger rigged from the factory piece of shit cr10. chinese wiring nightmare, with NO RMA FROM AMAZON!

found out the board is fucked up, and its a rats nest. goddamn I hate this piece of shit, but I'll be damned if its going to beat me.

>>1991210
i started swapping out the stock board for a skr1.4 turbo. why the fuck are there double wires going into the far left?

>>1991212
if it's anything like an ender board(it's probably the same board or very similar) that's the board fan power as well as something else. The newer revisions did away with the board cooling fans being on the same PWM circuit as the part cooling fan, so your stepper drivers don't shit the bed from overheating just because you're printing PETG or ABS.

>>1991216
>newer revisions did away with the board cooling fans being on the same PWM circuit
The 4.2.7 board (the silent drivers one) still has this issue, so I don't think that's the case with the 4.2.2 either.

>>1991216
I'm only going to be printing pla and pla+ , i have the silent boards for it. I need to get it running so I can print off the mount for the V6 and the BLT. this thing has had more problems than an early 90's hyundai.

>>1991229
the worst thing was, it was sold to me from amazon as a v2 with this big goody bag kit.

then they refused to RMA it.

if I put the end connectors on the fan bare wire, I should plug it into the cnc fan?

For someone who knows nothing about anything, what program is the easiest and fastest way to turn an idea into an 3D model/STL file?
It's a tool, not a sculpture, so I don't need it to be artsy.

>>1991234
Amazon refusing to RMA? Sounds like bullshit lol

>>1991256
no, they pulled that shit after that gay ass amazon day..

>>1991257
Bezos got your ass good

>>1991265
damn skippy bro.


happy new years /3dpg/!

>>1991251
If it's something you can break down into simple geometric shapes easily then your CAD of choice will serve you well. Onshape, Fusion 360, FreeCAD, SolidWorks, etc.

>>1991287
It is, but which CADs are more "drag, drop, and manipulate shapes" than "write code to generate shapes from math"?
The other day I used OpenSCAD to make some models of a font by tinkering with an already-complete OpenSCAD file, but I don't think I'd be able to write all that from scratch off the cuff.
Or is OpenSCAD an anomaly in that regard, and most CAD software is more like Cura in terms of surface-level shape manipulation?

>>1991291
OpenSCAD is the odd one out here. All other CADs are based on technical drawings. Drag and drop shapes and specify dimensions, relations, etc.

>>1991291
>drag and drop shapes
I think you might want to look into tinkercad

Wireless charger next to my bed which won't let my phone get knocked out of place. Wish I had made the bottom part that wraps around just as wide but whatever.

This time with photo upright.

>>1991309
Backside is just a cavity with all the parts from a store bought wireless charger, filled with epoxy.

I really want to print with nylon/carbon fibre reinforced nylon and other composites like nylonx, carbonx etc. If I get an Ender 3 v2 and upgrade the hotend/nozzle and do some other quality of life mods etc will I be good? What other printer options are in the range of ender 3v2 price + all the mods and parts I'd need?

On the Creality Ender 3 (Pro), How much is the display/control panel sticking out on the side?
Or in other words, how wide is the printer without the display?
Both with and without the stuff sticking out on the Z axis.
I'm considering to get into printing and I'm thinking about where I could even fit the printer.

>>1991441

I think I saw an STL somewhere for a drawer like the E3V2 has with the LCD fitted in the top.
Personally I'd recommend using Octoprint anyway and getting rid of the LCD

>>1991311
>If I get an Ender 3 v2 and upgrade the hotend/nozzle and do some other quality of life mods etc will I be good?
Yeah, it's a good choice.
Decking out an E3 is currently the best way to get an excellent printer for cheap, be it for specialized filament, high print speeds, high res prints or reliability. What it can do depends only on how you choose to build and upgrade it.

>What other printer options are in the range of ender 3v2 price + all the mods and parts I'd need?
Capable of printing CF filled filament out of the box? None.
You could probably go cheaper still by starting out with an E3 clone that's cheaper, but at that point you'd be getting some really low quality stuff in there. The hotend and extruder will be replaced anyways, so you care about getting good mechanical components. The mechanical stuff on the E3 is quite good for a roller setup, so you should have no need to mess with it at all.

Hey, i have a dragon hot end. Anyone know where j can get the v6 the groove mount? It connects to the heatsink/ chassis through 2 m1 bolts. Been looking around and cant seem to source one

>>1990696
>buy BL touch
>spend all day getting it to work
>still have to use fucking tape and hair spray for it to stick

fuck sake, I might as well take off the creality bed and break it into a million pieces because it is a piece of shit. the fucking aluminum underneath has shit stick better to it than the ceramic plate.

Is MSLA much more tolerant of overhang than FDM? Seems like it would be, since gravity is essentially working the opposite way, and even then parts are only subject to the full force of gravity for the couple of seconds between layers. As long as you have a wide enough base to hold the whole thing to the plate it should require much fewer supports, right?

Is there any (slightly good, at least) cad software that runs on linux, even if through wine? I'm tired of pretending that blender can fill that void.

>>1991477
seriously, why do you fall for all that snakeoil shit instead of getting a printsurface that just works™
a 0.5 pertinax plate and some athesive is 10$

>>1991460
I don't want to fit a drawer into the printer, I want to fit the printer in a small shelf and I'm not sure about the dimensions. The LCD I could get rid of, but I can't change the dimensions of the rest.
As far as I can see it's about 40-39cm wide without the lcd, and I have 39,6 cm space.

>>1991491
because it came on the machine and I haven't taken it off yet?

Realistically is the photon Zero worth a cop for a hundred dollars if I just bought a Mars Pro
480p is not a very high resolution

>>1990700
>c̴̛̠͙̈̃̿̑̓̈́̾̀̚͠h̶̫̄́̐́ĩ̴̛̞͖̥͇̭̦̪̘̱̤̯͓͉̂̃͛̓̊͛̉͌̒̕͜͝͝n̸̨̡̻͙͎͉͎͙̪̰̝̝̾̊̽̇͗͑̚k̶̛̫̹͔̒̀͆̀y̵̨͈̖̙̙͊̀̍̐͘͝ ̴̧̛̮̼̩͑͌̄͒̂̾̍̑̕͝t̸̰̦̳̖̳̜̹͙͚̹̘͔̘̬͕̮͊́̐̈͊͂̃̄̚̚͠o̴̢̙̐̓̎̑͐̏̚͠ǫ̵͖̙̱͈͔͊͌̐̏̓̐̇̕͝͠l̵̮̰̟̼̱̰͉̆̉͗̈́͆͌͝s̵͖̬̼͔͓͔̻̻̜̞̤̤̈͗͗̍̀͐̃͋͘
kek

>>1991477

I'm currently going through the exact same thing (see >>1990882) and I've finally gotten it to work. I'm currently running through the Unified Bed Levelling procedure. Hopefully it's gonna be good.

As for the print not sticking I'm fairly happy with the glass bed on the E3 V2. Haven't had any real problems so far even without the BLTouch

>>1991291
Pretty much any CAD besides OpenSCAD. That program is for autists who demand to do everything in code and provide a layer of abstraction for some unknown, autistic reason.

I personally use fusion 360, doing a 2d sketch of the basic dimensions and extrude to give me the 3rd dimension. I've also heard good things about freeCAD and Like the idea of not having to rely on the cloud like in fusion, I just havent had time to fuck around with it yet.

>>1991468
What hotend should I buy for the nylon stuff? I heard anything from Swiss is good? What what other mods (printable or otherwise) would you consider 'mandatory' for getting the most/best out of the ender 3v2 in terms of accuracy/print quality and quality of life? Other than changing the hotend I plan on adding a raspberry pi and octo.

Only thing im concerned about is I heard with ender 3 and other cheaper home solutions, you are limited to tolerances to 0.1/0.2 mm?

>>1991520
Oh and as far as software goes what is the best? I pretty much have all of them available for free

>>1991520
I shill it time and time again: get your bed knobs locked when you're not adjusting it. Get knobs with locknuts, and/or get bed knob detents. Also, tighten the bed all the way down to reduce wiggle, and level it by relaxing it. I am guilty of doing it the other way, but I hate adjusting my z stopswitch. Maybe I should print an adjustable z stop.
For quality of life, manage the cables. Ensure they don't snag on the rear left corner, be it with a full cablechain system or just a corner plow.
Get all corners square and T I G H T .
A z-screw knob helps a bit, and belt tensioners are a want, but not necessarily a need if you don't mind tweaking them by hand just a tad now and then.
I personally don't know how the cooling behaves on the 3v2; I have a 3v1. Assuming it's still chinkshit, print yourself a Satsanas shroud (simple) or a Hero Me (bells and whistles) to ensure heater cooling doesn't leak down onto the print, and that print cooling goes to the print instead of being wasted.
If you really wanna reduce tolerances, you could replace all axis carriages with linear rails. It will be expensive, but it will help you turn it into a semiprofessional tool.
For PETG and PLA, that should get you covered. For ABS, you could consider enclosing it, or playing with draft shields; basically a skirt but in every layer, so drafts don't leak in and the heat from the bed doesn't leak out.
>>1991499
I see you are a man of Ẕ̵̧̨̧̫͙̭̼͇̱̪͎͒̃͆̌̇̈͂̊̚͜͜͜͝a̷̢̧̡̢̘̝̙̮̬̖̻̹̼̳̪̫̞̻͚͈̒̽̎͊̍͆͑̈͊̔͋ͅl̶̡̨̡̡̡̢̡̨̛͓̤͎̞͔̙͍͇͇͈͕͙͈̦͍͉͕͎̫͎̼̞͙̖͕͍͔͍̻̥̭͓̯̱̩͇̟̆̔̓̄͊͊͋́͑̏̆̌̊ͅͅg̵̨̣͚͆̀̎͊̀͛͗̆̌́̆̈̽̆̀̂̿̐̿͗̆͘̚͘ö̴̧̡̯̹̳̟̥̱̱͉̦̝̬́̀ as well

I don't know if this is common knowledge but I just made the connection that if you get one of these 5 Second Fix pens you can really easily use SLA resin as an adhesive to make spot repairs. Got me out of a spot just now.

Just finished my first print with this new "jinos 3d" PLA. So far seems at least as nice as the hatchbox I usually use, so I'm gonna go ahead and shill it 'cause it's MADE in YOO ESS AYY the GREATEST country in the WORLD.

>>1991248
Fusion 360

>>1991251
Tinkercad, seriously. Easiest learning curve of anything I tried.

>>1991484
With MSLA once all your islands are covered gravity is basically irrelevant, but you have a new problem which is suction from the release film. So rather than weight or angle you have to think more of how much area will be created at once and whether you need a support to prevent an overhanging or bridging feature from being bent or warped by the suction force of being pulled up from the film while it is still very thin (as well as making sure you have enough supports overall to overcome the suction force of the whole model).

>>1991521
Where did you find the softwarez for free at?

>>1991520
>What hotend should I buy for the nylon stuff?
Personally I like Titan Aero with V6 heater block. It's robust, reliable and doesn't need any fancy ass shrouds to keep it from accidentally cooling your print. The V6 also has a wide range of nozzles available, including hardened steel and ruby ones.
Micro Swiss is basically the stock hotend but all metal and built with slightly better materials and tolerances. It's better but not some groundbreaking thing.

>other mods
Besides what >>1991528 said:
A silent board is pretty much a must if you're planning on sharing your room with the printer.
A BLtouch will remove the chore of having to relevel your bed. You still have to level it, but you can do it close enough and you'll have to do it again only after throwing the leveling off yourself aka when working on the Y axis.
Don't bother with the overkill fan ducts, you'll find that for most of the good filaments (ABS or PC based) you do not want cooling anyways, and for stuff like PLA, you can compensate with slicer settings.

Now to nitpick >>1991528 a bit.
You have no need for an enclosure when printing ABS. While it does help, it is not mandatory. If you want to prevent warping, a raft is more appropriate than a draft shield. Also remember that the print is likely to warp at corners where the pressure concentrates. A corner with a large enough fillet may not warp at all even without a raft.
I do confess, I'm quite the ABS shill, but recently I managed to get my hands on a roll of ASA. I can only say the following:
>Friendship ended with ABS, now ASA is my best friend.
ASA is almost identical to ABS in properties, but it warps much less. If you can help it, print ASA instead.

>>1991520
What advantages does adding a raspberry pi to your printer have?

>>1991565
You can start and manage prints remotely which is handy if you're not normally in the same room (or building) as your printer, saves a lot of running back and forth with SD cards. Also you can connect a camera and make sick timelapses to show off with.

>>1991560
You can't do anything worthwhile with tinkercad

>all prints look like this
>keeps just coming up every time the nozzle goes over the previous string

>>1991607
clogged

>>1991613
it lays down the filament perfectly, just when it goes over it with the nozzle for the second it rips up the previously laid down lines and then it turns into a ball.

how would a clog do this?

>>1991607
Your print isnt sticking well because you fell for the masking tape meme. Ive never had good luck with trying to get it to stick.

Water thinned woodglue for PLA.
Hairspray for PETG.
Slurry for ABS.

>>1991607
Looks like you might be too close to the print bed, and periodic lines like that tells me your filament tension could be too low

What's the best/cheapest multi-extruder 3D printer? I want to experiment with conductive filament.

>>1991617
Mine did the same thing. I thought it was the level, bed temp, etc. and it kept happening even after fixing those until I checked the hot end.

>>1991664
what was wrong with the hot end? I just printed a lot with PETG and just tried a purge with 250C to try and get everything out of the nozzle.

>>1991651
>experiment with conductive filament
Tip: don't. Unless you really, really need it or have a pile of cash for the actually good ones, almost every "conductive" filament out there is so lossy it's ridiculous. I've tried a few and getting even an LED to light up properly was terrible. Pic related is somebody's attempt at getting a 9V flashlight to work - those chunks of black are the conductive filament.

>>1991607
Should have bought a Prusa

>>1991669
did you? where's your overpriced printer?

>>1991670
Currently in the living room
>overpriced printer
hey now, at least it works and I don't have to trouble myself with ridiculously elementary problems like bed adhesion...

>>1991674
sorry, I'm just FUCKING LIVID right now. I spent $50 on a BL touch that was supposed to get rid of most of my issues, so I wouldn't have to use rafts or brims anymore, but low and behold I am back to printing everything on rafts.

>>1991682
Level your printer properly. I have an Ender v2 and with just the bed with no adhesive I never have an issue.

>>1991668
I'm aware, and that's not the point. Now what dual extruder 3D printer should I get?

>>1991690
I will do when I get done drinking a 24 pack.

>>1991691
Ultimaker 3, probably. Best results I've had so far.

>>1991695
Are the sub-1k models generally not very good then?

>>1991698
I've had mediocre to poor results with cheapass dual extruder printers, especially with leveling both nozzles. YMMV, as it always does with chinkshit, but if you're trying to experiment with fancy conductive filament you probably want to rule out the machine as a possible source of errors.

Back again after lots of adjustments. I wanted to share this Z-Axis Gear I printed. It's much better than my previous prints, but it did not come out right.

I'm using an Ender 3, 235/80, PETG, Cura's highest quality settings + some retraction adjustments suggested by another anon.

Obviously, the shell around the gear is fixable, but some of it didn't print correctly on the first layer, the hole for the rod doesn't fit at all, and there's some noticable banding on the base leading up to the hole.

What can I do to make the next print a little better?

>>1991703
What speeds are you printing at?

>>1991703
That looks like ass

>>1991712
35mm/s

>>1991667
Had to do the hot end fix where you put a piece of PTFE tube and a washer in the hot end. The coupler or whatever is weak and the tube slips while filament is being retracted. Eventually enough material builds up in the gap and it starts clogging.

>>1991682
What's wrong with using brims anyway? It's not much material and ensures corners stay down.

>>1990696
about to grab the ender 3 v2 with my trump bux
first 3d printer
yay or nay?
what should i know? what filiment should i get? and is there anything i should buy with this?

>>1991722
takes up time and filament

>>1991703
i know half this thread has printed this
SHOW ME YOUR GEARS

>>1991682
I too thought Bltouch was a set it and forget type of tool, but no. I still level my bed manually with the springs to make it as close to perpendicular to my x-gantry. Then I used bltouch with octoprint to get a good visualization of what my bed looks like. Then I releveled the corners and bltouch probe the bed again. Kept doing this until I got the corner as close to equal as possible. Then came the fun part of fixing dips and bumps. I used pieces of cut printer paper and put them between the bed and heatplate. Probed the bed another 50 times and now my bed is fairly flat. After all this, now the bltouch is a set it and forget tool.

>>1991719
Maybe lower it a little? I print at 20mm with 10mm for the initial layer. To be fair, I'm also in the process of trying to get PETG to work on my ender3.

>>1991703
>highest quality settings
>35mm/s
try 5 to 15° cooler dude

>>1991723
Remember that people don't recommend the Ender 3 because it's high quality or reliable (it isn't). They recommend it because it's cheap, is capable of excellent results and the huge user base makes modding and troubleshooting by yourself very easy.

>>1991735
if you were a first time buyer that doesnt want to throw huge amounts of money at it to try what would your recommend?

>>1991737
You don't need huge amounts of money, just patience and the ability to google solutions when you have a problem or some variable you want to improve. All other printers in the same price range will give roughly the same experience, the Ender is only better because there are tons of dummy friendly guides around for it and at least a dozen posts online about every problem or deficiency it could possibly have.

>>1991703
Highest quality is shitty for PETG. Use a 0.2mm layer.

>>1991749
sounds like its a safe bet just for the sheer volume of info out there for it. i think im going to pull the trigger when its back in stock

>>1991737
My V2 printed fine out the box. But definitely needed to tinkered with for larger/longer prints. The small mistakes build up and only show in large prints. Doing things like squaring the frame, tightening all screws, including the ones behind the gantry (which most people miss because you can't see it) and doing the hot end fix or you can skip a bowden setup and buy a direct drive + all metal hot end from the start.

>>1991754
Prusa mini is safe bet too if you can push your budget about 100 bucks up. Its more beginner friendly, reliable and can handle more material without moding. Prusas customer support is really good too and the community around it is big. Downsides are smaller bed size and long lead time.

>>1991489
A lot of people run SW in a VM.

>>1991498
>480p
WTF is the point, then?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMMauLmHcwk

>>1991813
what a meme

>>1991807
Yeah I don't think resin printers are at "ender 3" level yet. I'm going to wait a while until a cheap 4k option eventually comes out.

>>1991818
I can see it working for huge prints, like a house or some other sort of industry. Modular sized x/y.

>>1991753
>Highest quality is shitty for PETG. Use a 0.2mm layer.
This. I never, ever got passable results with PETG until I started printing in draft quality with a .8mm nozzle. I just leave more detailed prints to PLA.

What reputable source do you use for master spool refills inside CONUS?

>>1991731
Why have the BL touch if you've already done all that work?

for my HP fan gf

>>1991869
gj anon

>>1991859
The bed can move, shift and warp over time. I use it to get the best results I possibly can each and every print. To be honest, it's the autistic perfectionist in me. If I have the ability to make something more accurate, my mind goes nuts until I fix it.

>>1991869
Very nice work man. What did you make the wings out of? They're holding their shape really well for such thin objects

Would this be the right thread to inquire about SolidWorks? I want to design and print a violin and have some questions because I've hit a roadblock.

Has anyone managed to get Unified Bed Levelling to work on the Ender 3 V2? On the 4.2.2 board? I finally managed to get the firmware compiled and it runs well but unfortunately it seems to crash the printer after completing the first pass of UBL.

Could this be an issue of insufficient EEPROM space?

>>1991901
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NDQ66LF

I laid them on a bowling ball and softened them with a heat gun in its lowest setting.

>>1991914
Not really, anon. This thread is full of F360 scrubs. There's like 3 people using SolidWorks here.
I wish I could help you but I couldn't sketch a violin like that to save my life.

>>1991914
What you want is a loft. It takes multiple contours and interpolates the geometry between them in a fairly interactive way.

>>1991936
How many contours are we talking? Do you have an estimation based on the shape of the base? Thanks in advance both of you >>1991933

>>1991914
As an anon that tried to do this very thing from scanned splines: use ruled surfaces.

>>1991940
It really depends on how finely curved you want it. You could get away with lofting it up the point of inflection and then putting a dome on it, but it might not look ideal. You just need to experiment with it a bit. What I would do is come up with an end profile as well, so then you can just draw up from the legnthwise, draw in from the end, and there are the points defining your contour.

>>1991914
Looks like the top isn't symmetrical. Was that intentional?

For this, you might be better off doing an extrusion, then cut away the excess material, maybe even with a chamfer (you can adjust the angle or go length/height). Otherwise, if you click on Insert at the top and go into Features, you'll find tools like Dome, Freeform and the like which are pretty niche, so most people wouldn't know they're even there.
Anyway, once you have the outside to your liking, use the shell command and extrude cut the f-holes.

>>1991940
Alternatively, though less predictably, you can just use your existing contour there, make a very small thin contour that's essentially going to be the very highest part of the case, and then loft using a guide curve

>>1991724
>time and filament
the < 1 g a brim takes and the maybe 25 seconds of print time is negligible

>>1991737
I bought a 3 pro v1. worked great out of the box with a glass bed, I replaced the control board and it works even better. 24+ hour prints no issue
both calibration cubes I printed from the two boards (same gcode) came within a tenth of a millimeter dimensional accuracy on two filaments
just make sure you can't wobble it back and forth, if you can then you need to loosen the frame bolts and retighten while putting your weight on the top of the gantry
stick a filament box between the print area and the nearest air register for extra strong adhesion, all my prints border on overadhering
don't settle for a smaller print volume, 200x200x200 is a minimum volume

>>1991722
>ensures corners stay down
lmao
Brims aren't enough to make sure PLA doesn't warp, let alone other materials like ABS.
PETG is the winner here because it sticks to the bed so well It doesn't warp no matter what

>>1991972
>PLA
>warp
You're doing something super fucking wrong if you're getting warping PLA, or it's not actually PLA

>>1991975
Big prints warp at the corners. Smaller prints are okay, but I tried printing these drawers in PLA with a brim and the corners still warped.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444
210/60 with 215 initial layer.
So no, brims are a waste of material when it comes to warping. It's raft or nothing.
The only case I see brims useful in is a model with a really small base, like the dice that anon printed a couple threads back.

>>1991940
I worked up an extremely rough example using one loft. You draw up your main outline contour, you offset a plane from that by whatever you want the thickness to be, then you draw in your smaller contour. This bit's important, make sure the two contours have the same number of line segments, otherwise you get those lines from the sharp corners, because I wasn;t arsed making sure they had the same number of line segments resulting in nodes with nowhere to go. Make another plane, perpendicular & midplane to those planes, draw on your guide line which describes the kind of curve you want. Then loft the bottom contour to the top contour along the guideline.

>>1991983
A thing to keep in mind with this project: plastic will not have the same harmonic behavior as wood, so you probably won't end up with a good sounding violin if you 1:1 copy a wood one.

>>1991983
>>1991955
>>1991950
>>1991948
>>1991946

Incredibly based, I sincerely appreciate the help fellas.

>>1991985
I was actually reading something a few weeks ago that proposed that since 3D printed plastics are essentially fibrous, being made of up of layers of strands, they're really not structurally that dissimilar to a dense timber.

>>1991988
Polylactic acid doesn't have the same stiffness to mass as lignin.

>>1991563
>Now to nitpick >>1991528 a bit.
>ABS
Yeah, sorry on those mate, I haven't tried ABS myself, just PLA and PETG. I was just listing some stuff that I've seen worked for other people.

>>1991786
what is the point of paying $100 more for a smaller machine? you must think i'm a retard

>>1992037
Because
>Its more beginner friendly, reliable and can handle more material without moding. Prusas customer support is really good too and the community around it is big

what happened to the pastebin

>>1992038
Consider that anon may be a poorfag through no fault of his own, and he may not have those $100. I know that in my own flesh; in my case, I live in a shithole.
>well then, stop living in a shithole
You don't say.

>>1992042
goto >>1990708

>>1992045
thanks now question
it says buy brand name filament for beginners but doesn’t actually say what companies are considered “brand name”. seems like a huge oversight and is like when people use acronyms in faqs without actually laying out what said acronyms mean. care to help an anon out with absolutely zero knowledge on any of this

Finished up the box. Was going to do black but I think the gray primer looks fine. Way too much post processing with an exacto, sandpaper, and a file. It's still a bit rough but whatever. I spent way too much time on a case for this fucking $4 screw driver set. PETG is fucking stringy, man. I just wanna go back to PLA.

>>1992062
3d printed hinge around back with a 2 1/2" finish nail as the pin.

>>1992063
I honestly feel like a loser spending this much time designing a screwdriver box on new years day. I gotta get out more.

>>1992050
Hatchbox is reliable, when you can catch it in stock. Been using it for years. They're a smaller manufacturer but are great quality.

>>1992084
thanks anon

>>1991869
How do you print gf?

>>1992043
>don't want to spend more for less gain
>must be poor

>>1991914
without knowing your roadblock: make oversized extrusions and merge them using "intersect" from the boolean operations.
>>1992064
>get out more
during this pandemic? you did something productive, don't bash yourself over it

>>1991842
Not certain it's MasterSpool compatible, but there's this:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/510199/inland-175mm-black-pla-3d-printer-filament---spooless

>>1992133
Prusa mini got things like auto bed leveling, idiot proof custom made profiles for shit ton off filaments and actual safety features to stop your house burning down. Sounds bretty good to rookies if you ask me. But some people just like to tinker with their printers and bang their head on the wall before they can get their shit to even stick to the bed but what do i know?

>>1992167
>MasterSpool
Now there's an interesting concept.

>>1990800
is it the same on the xs pro? shouldn't be hard to replace the board fan with one wired to VCC

>>1991309
Next time build the barrel jack into the chassis. This solution is hobby tier shit.
This cabeling solution is the equivalent of a flaccid penis. Sad, very sad.

>>1992260
>Next time build the barrel jack into the chassis.
lol I did at first (original usb connector), but it flooded with epoxy, straight through the hot snot I used to protect it. Since the charger was already embedded in the epoxy, it was hard to still make it neat.

Also, go fuck yourself.

>>1991251
Learn solidworks. You can find the cracked 2017 version and teach yourself some marketable skills. I'm an EE and learning CAD while playing with my 3D printer helped me a lot at work.
Fusion360 is ok for hobby only work, but for companies a cloudbased CAD solution is a nogo.
The most important thing to remember is to use a separate sketch for each extrusion/cut, regardless of the used tool. Breaking this rule leads to headaches when a part needs changes.
Disable the timeline in Fusion360 as a default, since it encurages bad CAD practice.

>>1992265
Lame excuses as expected.

And. No!

>>1992266
LOL I love the timeline and I also use as few sketches as possible.

>I'M PRETTY TOO

>>1992266
Adding to this Anon's post, if you really want to learn GOOD CAD practice, look up "resilient modeling." It doesn't matter if you have a skeleton sketch that's kind of complicated if said part is kind of complicated, but you should model your parts in a way that won't explode at the slightest edit.

>>1992064
Nah, you're great.
>blobs on lower right
Disregard that.

I'm printing something right now, and for some reason the layers have these really obvious and ugly ripples in them. I've never seen anything like it in my prints. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

>>1992272
>GOOD CAD practice

>>1992360
An accurate depiction of my mental state after modifying my coworker's shitty CAD late into the evening.

>>1992266
You're the inverse me. I'm a ME learning EE. Although, I like doing mechanical and electrical projects a lot.

>>1991251
Listen to what >>1992266 is saying with following modeling rules. This way when you need to change something in the future you don't break your design and need to change 30 features afterwards.

>>1992360
If you ever work with other people you will come to know good CAD from bad CAD, either through suffering yourself or having your coworker suffer...

>>1992064
Nice piano hinge. What did you use as a rod?

>>1992167
>>1992180
Really depends on the quality of the spool. I purchased a similar concept from my local filament vendor and the design for the spool had two thumb screws sticking out the side near the center which would interfere with the spool rotating on my printer, so I had to baby-sit it and loosen it manually every so often.

>>1992266
Depends on your workflow.
If you do top-down modeling, it's not uncommon to make a sketch or three with all the profiles inside the assembly file and then build the parts from within the assembly (usually you start them as "virtual" parts and then save-as after you've got the basic geometry down).

>>1992360
I've done a bunch of drafting work and the #1 thing I ended up doing at every such job was try to unfuck existing models.
Like they'd make a new iteration of an old model, but don't pack&go so their assembly contains some of the old parts which then get edited and so the original assembly has parts change completely fucking up dims and mates. Or they'd change the geometry of a part but then forget to change the file properties so it still says the information for the old part in the BOM and whatnot.
Another big one is they'd just drop the first part into the assembly, which automatically is set to "fixed" and then constrain the parts based on that, despite the first part not being anywhere remotely aligned with the assembly planes. So, when someone tries to do a mirror along, say, the right plane, the positioning is completely off.
Or inserting screws or something into the assembly, but don't fully define it, so when you do QC, you have to manually check to make sure that the screws aren't just spinning in place, rather than being completely unconstrained and floating around in some random spot. Had one file where that happened a few times so the BOM had like 40 extra screws because after each edit the person would see missing screws and just add more of them.

All this to say that oftentimes, a CAD file is so poorly constructed that it's faster and easier to just start from scratch.

>>1992272
Good point.

I am often surprised that my Solidworks models can be changed exactly the way I want them to change compared to my chaotic Fusion models where I "saved time" using extrusion without sketches excessively and making just a minimal amount of sketches. It gets you a bit faster to revision 1, but revision 2 could be a real pain in the ass potentially requiring a do-over, compared to a painless change in a planned design taking seconds to change. Individual sketches are also very nice, since you can give them a self-explanatory name that your colleagues will appreciate when they have to work on your stuff.

>>1992408
Holy shit, how are they allowed to work on CAD? Are they not using a PDM-system to prevent exactly this shit from happening?

Damn, must suck to work with these people. I would probably quit after seeing such a mess.

>>1992445
I shit you not, they just had everyone editing files directly on the server.
A lot of it was shit decisions from upper management, but it was a very nepotistic environment, so not all that surprising.

>>1992448
Jesus. In what branch of the industry?

Please help me come up with a solution how can I cock this "trebushet" thing. This is supposed to be a jumpable target for airsoft practice shooting (pls no bully). A target is supposed to be attached to the stick and the base is supposed to be screwed under window or on a wall next to a door.

Anyhow I want this to be set and let it unleash itself, in random time. So I'd like to come up with a timer of sorts, but FUCK arduino, can I make this completely mechanical?

>>1992451
Furniture, signage, that kind of deal.

>>1992453
egg timer

>>1992453
Triggering something randomly with just a mechanism is not impossible, but way more work than connecting a timer to a relay.

>>1990700
>chinky tools
indeed

My printer has a clog and sounding the nozzle with the metal pin didn't work and I don't want to take apart the extruder.

>>1992453
use a suction cup, that'll release sooner or later

>>1992177
Nice ad I think your audience is on instagram though

what the fuck

>>1992525
Looks like a clogged nozzle.

>>1992527
just found out about clogged nozzles
shit sucks bro

I assume you will now tell me to find tutorials for unclogging nozzles, no?

>>1992528
I mean, it's pretty self explanatory.
Take pointy thing, remove clog.
Though, to be honest, depending on how bad the clog is you may as well just swap in a new one. They're dirt cheap and you should value your time.

>>1992525
shits fucked

>>1992528
Heat it up to the melting temperature of whatever's clogging it and jam a long, thin needle up the nozzle. It'll fix it quickly most of the time. I've been told accupuncture needles are perfect for this, but I got a set of nozzle cleaners with my printer so I just use those.

>>1992528
Look up cold pull and do it.

>>1992525
That's, like, a BLtouch right? They light up.

>>1990696
>>1990696
first time printer, doing research before putting down the money. Is there a resource that tells exhaustively what filament materials are supported by each printer/extruder/hot end?

looking for a good open source, larger build volume(>8 inches) that can handle most/all filament types. currently looking at alternatives to the prusa due to high cost. having a hard time finding fully diy kits for a reasonable price.

please help

>>1992531
>>1992538
How do I know when it is unclogged? I have stuck the needle up in and slid it up and down but I didn't pull anything out since, well, it's a needle. Should I just run another test print and see how it goes?

>>1992525

What the fuck are you even doing? For real.

>>1992576
tryna print this nigga
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3758189

>>1992577

I mean, why is your printer this fucked? How do you even get to it being that bad?!

>>1992575
Yeah just print something small and see if it's better.

>>1992570
>looking for a good open source, larger build volume(>8 inches) that can handle most/all filament types. currently looking at alternatives to the prusa due to high cost. having a hard time finding fully diy kits for a reasonable price.

You could always just build a Prusa without buying the parts from them.

Hot-end choice is simple. PTFE-lined == limited to lower temp materials. Say only up to 230-240C at most. All metal will do anything with a big enough heater. Other differences boil down to bulk and how fast they can extrude. Generally you just go with what exists in your specific ecosystem unless you have a specific reason not to.

>>1992582
I was rushing to print gifts for Christmas. I started seeing this about five prints ago, but so far the exterior of the prints have remained relatively unaffected. It was irresponsible to continue but I figured I could repair it once the projects were complete.

>>1992353
shit PIDs, failing steppers, wobbly y axis, loose belts, microstepping if you fucked with firmware, not sending enough power to the motors if you added or modified the assembly in a way that adds weight

>>1992584
You could also go Taz, but that's even more expensive than Prusa.

Otherwise, if you want open source, you're building it yourself.

>>1991869
Are you going to put a ring in it and ask her to marry you?

>>1992593
Gonna stick your cock in it and have it fall off immediately?

>>1992584
>having a hard time finding fully diy kits for a reasonable price.
aaaand there's a reason for that. That 'too expensive' Prusa kit is still winning in terms of economics of scale.

>buying filaments
>get some cheap for printing mechanical stuff, something matte so geometrical problems are easy to spot and fix
>get some with glitter and shit thats expensive so i can print gifts for normies and they can look at it and say its pretty
>matte filament is weaker than the glittery shit
explain this nonsense, i dont think the glitter is the secret ingredient

>>1992600
>get some cheap
>get some not-cheap
>wtf the not-cheap is better how can this be
get what you pay for

>>1992525
Should have bought a Prusa
hint: buy a new hotend, I suggest E3D V6

>start print
>watch first layer
>go to bed
>wake up to this

The lcd screens on sla printers are consumable right?
Instead of replacing it with the same spec couldn't you use a screen with a higher resolution?

>>1992453
>FUCK arduino
BUT IT'S THE SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM

>>1992649
And that's why you use brims and hair spray.

What causes this?

>>1992651
>Instead of replacing it with the same spec couldn't you use a screen with a higher resolution?
depends entirely on the connector on your board, same issue with laptops is that two of the same family have almost-identical motherboards, but the LCD connector is bigger on the one with the nicer screen because it has to push more pixels

>>1992657
too hot/part didn't cool enough before next layer.

>>1992660
Aw.
I was hoping it would be a nice way to get better prints without a whole new printer.

>>1992665
You really think so?
I thought 250 celcius is the ideal tempature to pring PETG at.

>>1992667
I'd say the resolution is hardcoded on the mainboard anyway. It has to be able to map layers to dots.

>>1992669
bigger problem is it's a small enough part that the prev layer isn't setting and the next pass just drags it along.

>>1992657
Looks like bad retraction settings to me.

>>1992655
Build an enclosure.

>>1992727
*find a cardboard box

>>1992401
2½" finish nail.

>>1990696
How do you guys monitor your printing? Like if you have something that is going to take hours to print, what do you do to keep tabs on it so it doesn't fuck up?

Cura shat the bed yesterday and reset all my configurations, had to recreate them. Since then, I am getting stray lines on top/bottom layers. Nani ni fuck no namae?

>>1992760
>How do you guys monitor your printing?
vgrep: http://www.catb.org/~esr/jargon/html/V/vgrep.html

>>1992764
see this as an opportunity and drop that garbage slicer

>>1991619
Which hairspray? Something cheap like Aquanet or something fancy?

>>1992760
I turn my head 60 degrees to the right.

>>1992772
Whatever "extra strength" spray. Preferably unscented.

>>1992760
I pointed my old phone at it running open camera and use adb to mirror it to my PC

But bros, anti-aliasing + level 0 looks the best, right? I feel like I'm taking crazy pills here

>>1992760

I'm running Octoprint right now but unfortunately only on a Pi Zero, so webcam is not an option. But ultimately the idea is to put the printer in the basement (in an enclosure preferrably), go down there to set everything up and monitor first couple of layers while having a nice cold "Kellerbier" and then go back up to my apartment and check remotely

I know this is more of a design question but I thought I'd ask you guy anyway. I have this breaker detector and the switch is mad sensitive, like breathe on it and it turns on. You can imagine how annoying this is in a pocket or with other tools.

The obvious solution is a little wedge that goes under the button to lock it, easy enough, but what happens to the wedge when removed for use?

The button needs to be secured at each end (either end will turn it on) and the whole button/body is slightly curved in the area. I'm looking for a way to secure the lock tab so it's easy to use and doesn't get lost. Multiple pics to illustrate general shape.

Got any brilliant ideas for me anons? Taking it apart in a minute, will post insides next.

>>1992798
Lanyard that's anchored to the battery door via the existing screw hole?

>>1992649
>>1992655
>>1992727
>>1992734
I let it build up 2 or 3 layers then hit it with a heat gun and pressed that corner back down. Might have to do it again every so often until it gets some height but it seems easy enough.

>>1992798
>Taking it apart in a minute, will post insides next.

The button is most likely gonna be spring loaded somehow. See if you can replace the spring or maybe replace it for a stiff foam or something like that.
At least that's what I would check first.

>>1992798
single touch turns on
hold 3s turns off

>>1992798

Forgot: if you don't want to replace the spring and fix the sensitive button then I'd opt for stop that swings in and out. I'd put it on with a screw on the opposite side of that LED.

>>1992804
in the future a brim and relevel is all you'll probably need

>>1992805
no, but adding a spring is a good idea.

>>1992810

Yeah, seems like they were relying on the springiness of that miniature button. I'd go with the spring desu

>>1992809
having to use a brim for a part that's already like 20 square inches flat on the plate bothers me. I normally only use brims for things that don't have enough surface area to stick on their own.

>>1992798
Forgive terrible drawing, what if you did something like this printed in TPU so it;s flexible. Secure it at the bottom, you've got the stops on each end and then on top you've got a wedge, when you want to use it you just push the wedge aside with the top of your thumb, push the switch forward with the heel of your thumb and then the switch itself keeps the stops out until you slide it back to off. Then it springs back in, because flexible.

>>1992792
Yeah level 0 looks the best for this test and they say as much albeit with very confusing and poor english. Don't forget that grey level should be adjusted whenever you change the resin or exposure time. Image blur I still don't totally understand; I really wish they would just program some sort of AA test pattern so we can just print all the combinations at once and pick the best one.

>>1992806
If you're already taking it apart, just file a groove in the button for the tactile switch to sit in so it doesn't have any preload.

>>1992821
Oh I see now, I wasn't taking crazy pills, I was taking reading comprehension pills. I skipped an image and was associating that image with the second test where they say 4 is the best.

>>1992824
there is not preloaded, it's actually loose from the switch and sides and flops around.

>>1992818
you're lovely m8

>>1992826
Yeah I think there was supposed to be another set of 4 pictures demonstrating the same test with image blur enabled but it looks like they just posted the 4 pictures from the first test again by mistake.

ender 3 v2 or ender 3 max anons?

I've never printed something like this before.

Is this going to tip over?

>>1992955
Probably not, plastic is pretty light for its size and as long as you have good adhesion, it won't be enough to break off the bed.

>>1992955
I should ask though, is there a reason you're printing it vertically like that? The part looks like a supporting beam of some kind, and you'll get more strength out of it if you have the layers running parallel to the part itself.

>>1992961
You're probably right. I was trying to avoid supports, and I think it was meant to be printed that way, seeing as all the angles are conveniently higher than 45°.

Printing this right now. Selected are already printed. I don't think there's any load acting on this thing though, seems to be mostly cosmetic.

>>1992963
You're definitely better off printing the arms of the crossbow flat. things gonna snap printing it upright.

>>1992989
Yeah, the arms were easy to print. They lay flat on the bed. Although I'll probably reprint them, since they are looking a little flimsy right now. Once I test it and have it assembled I'll see if I need to.

The upright part is the red thing on the bottom of the image.

>>1992999
tree supports cured my erectile disfunction

>>1992760
I pray mostly. Worked for me so far.

>>1992768
Which one do you suggest?

>>1992760
I wait for the first layer to finish to ensure it sticks properly. Then I can give zero fucks about the print.
You should have no need to monitor your printer if you give it the proper maintenance and calibration.

>>1993050
Pretty much this. After I got my ender 3 dialed in and calibrated I haven't had any issues at all. Just clean the bed and check level after a while.

Do I need a computer to set up Ender 3 or can I do it without? I'm in the middle of moving and this machine is driving me nuts, sitting there in its box, in pieces, tempting me to build it... But my PC is boxed up with half of it at the old place, half of it at the new place. It probably won't be less than two weeks before all the components are reunited and I'm not sure I can wait that long to build this thing.

>>1993098
Not really assuming you have a phone with internet. You can download models from thingiverse and put it on the SD then pop it into the printer

>>1992408
>>1992445
>>1992448
>>1992451
You'd be surprised how lax startups get. "it's fine, it's whatever, we'll fix it later" is the MO where I am and guess what? They never fucking fixed it later, and now the company's getting close to 300 people and the default template for models STILL has the fucking front plane backwards and the "Home" camera position views it from the bottom, and the template file is listed as "missing" by the program when I go to create a new model.

Fucking idiots, the lot of them.

>>1992798
Put a lid over it, not only can you feel like a fighterjet pilot but you also won't run into problems like losing the small piece
>>1993098
you can set it up without PC, its a bit annoying but perfectly doable

>>1990718
I have a old-ish CR10 (2017 I think) and it doesn't have this issue. I can turn my part cooling fan completely off, low or max, and the 2 fans in the control box are constantly on full blast. All the wiring goes to its natural place on the board as well. Looking at the schematic, the 2 board fans and hotend fan are on the always on terminal, while the part cooling fan has a separate connection. Now, there's a extra connection spot to attach a spare part cooling fan that is unused which runs at the same speed as the other part cooling fan, however that plug is naturally empty.

Was this just an Ender issue and not a CR10 issue?

>>1991210
Good lord, my CR10's wiring is actually half decent, I have no idea why in the world yours is like that. Maybe a Friday at the factory (do chinks even get the weekend off)?

>>1993168
>the 2 board fans and hotend fan are on the always on terminal
>Now, there's a extra connection spot to attach a spare part cooling fan that is unused which runs at the same speed as the other part cooling fan, however that plug is naturally empty
Yeah, I guess for the E3 they connected the board fan to the spare fan port, probably to save time on splicing the wires together.

>>1993168
Also, I'm planning on upgrading the board in my CR10. Nothing particularly wrong with it, I'd just like to enable more features on Marlin, which I currently can't do due to the base memory limitations of the board.

I assume there's no reason not to go 32 bit? Anyways, any general recommendations for a board and stepper motor drivers? If whoever is responding to this wouldn't mind including an expected price for their recommendation, that'd be nice.

Also, if I change to a 24v instead of 12v power supply, where does that leave me in terms of my fans? I know I'll need to change out my heater cartridge, but I don't think 40mm 24v fans are a common thing. I've already got my heated bed running off of a relay off mains, so that's not an issue. I don't think my steppers or limit switched need to be changed? Is upgrading to 24v even worth it?

>>1993171
Cool, thanks for confirming. I'm more knowledgeable about the mechanical aspects, so I'm kind of shooting in the dark with the electronics portion. Good to see I'm on the right track, granted this seems pretty simple.

>>1993177
I'd get an SKR 1.4 Turbo. The 1.4 turbo with 5 TMC 2130 drivers is around 60$.
It supports plenty of extra stuff so it's a great upgrade for it.

>>1993184
Alright, thanks. I'll look more into that.

Also the more I look at upgrading to 24v, the more it doesn't seem worth it, unless there's something I'm missing. Like maybe your hotend heats up faster, but that's about all I can think of if I already have my bed running off mains.

>>1993098
I would wait since it's easier to move the box and moving it afterwards might throw off calibration

>>1993013
im in the mids of transitioning myself
i'll give super slicer a chance next

>>1993177
with tmcs you have to go for 24v, stealthchop does looses too much torque below 18v
Id go with the skr e3 mini series, they fit the original mounting holes and are cheaper than the separate driver ones.
24v fans exist but pricey.
buy a 1$ step down modul as new voltage source for fans and drop in whatever you like. This works for the PWM fans too as they are npn switched
With the bed running off of mains you dont need a 500w power supply, 100w should be enough i guess

>>1993199
The E3 mini is a drop in upgrade for the Ender 3. Not a bad choice but it's kinda limited. Dude has the CR-10 so he has the space for a bigger board, and all the extra stuff the 1.4 supports may actually be useful.
Also if you're buying an upgrade board you kind of want to go all the way, it's the worst thing ever to buy a board only to realize it lacks some crap and you need to get another one. I didn't recommend him a Duet 3 or something, he should just get a fully decked out SKR, for 60$ it's not even that expensive.

>>1993213
i stand by my point
the mini e3 is less hassle and the cost of 2 Stepstick driver
>Dude has the CR-10
chinkshit, no reason to dump huge amounts of money in

What important features does the 1.4 have over the mini series THAT JUSTIFY 2.5 times the price? I havent missed anything yet

>>1993213
Yeah, I'll probably go for the SKR 1.4 Turbo and 5 TMC 2130's. Is upgrading to 24v really necessary for the TMC 2130's? Is the likelihood of losing steps/extra noise actually relevant enough to go 24v? I suppose a 24v power supply and step down hardware for fans really isn't that expensive, but obviously this all adds up.

Also, what in the heck is the difference between the 4 pin (pwm) and 3 pin (flx) noctuas? Did I pull a big dumb dumb by getting the 3 pin, or was the 3 pin the better choice?

>>1993219
>chinkshit, no reason to dump huge amounts of money in
Eh, pretty much the only thing stock is the frame, motors and board. Ultimately the stuff I've upgraded like a geared extruder, full metal hotend, mains heated bed, and eventually the board can all be used for a new build when I get around to it, so getting a decent board and stepper drivers isn't that bad of an idea.

>>1993219
Support for dual Z motors is a must. If he has one of the newer CR-10s then he has a dual lead screw system.
>inb4 just get a splitter
That's how you kill stepper drivers. If you kill a driver on the mini E3 you can chuck the entire board in the trash. Thankfully the 1.4 doesn't have integrated drivers.
You also get a port for a filament sensor which is also a must on something that prints big.
He also has all the connections required to use a 2nd hotend, so he can do multi material prints without a purge block.
And at 60$ the price is nowhere near the 2.5 times you claim vs the mini E3 which is 35$.

>>1993231
I'd try things out on 12v first. No harm in doing that. If it really does skip steps and increasing the Vref doesn't help then you can consider 24v.
I know that it seems a bit of a hassle with the fans but there is an advantage with running them off a step down converter. You can control the speeds of the fans a bit by changing the target voltage.

>>1993219
>chinkshit, no reason to dump huge amounts of money in
t. prusafag

>>1993237
>implying

>>1993238
Ah, so you're an ultimakerfag then

>>1993239
im an enderfag that tries to stop anon wasting all his cash on worthless upgrades
ffs this is a printer and not a model train

>>1990718
Is it an issue with Ender 3 V2 too? It uses creality v4.2.2 board, I'm also getting failures with PETG an hour or two into the print. If I lower print temperatures (nozzle and board), and keep the cooling fan high, the nozzle clogs eventually as material dries up on the tip.
PETG is a fucking nightmare

Its funny to read these threads when they are always full of raging chinkshit troubleshooters. Beginners that dont know anything about 3D printers buy cheap unfinished products thinking they can hack these machines like the big boys told on the internet. Products that gets abandoned by the manufacturer right after launch because they are too busy to get more shitty printers out. And now your new hobby is fixing 3D printers, not 3D printing stuff.

But hey atleast you saved few bucks, fucking kek.

Are Prusafags the 3DPG equivalent to Macfags on /g/? "It just works" right?

>>1993254
Pretty much.
Except Prusa isn't even apple tier, that'd be something like Ultimaker.

At least it was a good test of the concentric shell layer setting. Looks cool but I think not for this part when I get it right the 3rd damn time.

>>1992603
Of course it was not cheap, all that fucking glitter costs a fortune

>>1993254
The closest think I can think of is that they're the same as the people on ARG at /k/ that drop ~$2k on a LWRC, BCM, or other boutique AR's. After they get out shot at a competition by a guy with a PSA, they cope by posting about how much better their *insert brand* is, and call anyone that criticizes any of their comments a poorfag.

Got my Ender 3 V2 successfully level und I installed a BLTouch plus flashed new firmware for UBL. It is all working beautifully now.
So.next step is a new fan shroud I guess. What the official /3DPG/ recommendations for fan shrouds?

Also can I print a shroud in PLA and then, when the time has come, use it to print a more high temp durable one out of PETG or ABS even?

>>1993248

I unironically find "fixing" 3D printers more fun than actual printing most of the time. With every "regular" 3D print I always find myself thinking "Was it really neccessary to print this? What am I gonna use this for. It's just gonna collect dust somewhere"

>>1993266
Most people just dont care this hobby that much so they never take it to the next level with buying more expensive gear. They are happy to fuck with some inexpensibe toy for a while before that gets booring and then move on to the next thing in life. At least 80% of 3d printer buyers are like this.

>>1993254
Prusa is way closer to windows with chinkshit being linux

>>1993254
Ultimaker = mac

>>1993245
Probably? I don't know man, test it yourself. Keep the layer cooling fan stuck with something and turn on the cooling. Anon said this before, if there's another fan spinning up while the layer fan is not spinning then you have this issue.

>>1993241
>this is an actually useful machine, not a decoration, so anon shouldn't spend money on it
Great point, genius.

>>1993248
Prusa goyim should be gassed

MAKE A NEW ONE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

>>1992764
when this happened to me, i was able to import profiles from old gcode.

try going to Setting, then Profile, then Manage Profiles. click the Import button and select an old gcode


really, cura should unfuck this shit deleting profiles

>>1992064
Go back and do print in place hinges or at least integrate them into the box. Don't let that sunken cost fallacy escape!

>>1992353
oof

>>1992362
>>1992386
>>1992408
>>1992445
>>1992448
programming is exactly the same thing, from editing right on the server to bad practices (or non-existant) I swear most of my career was fixing garbage done wrong. I've seen it in CAD too, but only as a tutor.

>>1992570
generalist printer, e.g. one trying to do everything, will do nothing that well. add to that you want budget basement chinkshit to save a penny you're going to be unhappy. and I've been told build volume is not something to pursue in your first printer- ngl, it sounds amazing, I'll print the whole helment or whatever. Most of the prints wind up being far smaller and the learning curve wastes less on a small platform.

Materials handling are determined by two things: the nozzle heat and the build plate heat. Your nozzle has to get hot enough, but the build plate also needs to handle the material (e.g. nylon). I've printed nylon with my printer even thought it's not in spec and supposedly I can print PETG, ABS and some others.

In any case I'd consider getting a smaller, very good PLA printer that just works and learn on that before trying to get a large volume does everything on a budget.

>>1992525
>>1992528
>>1992544
this. basically you heat to nylon, push filament in, cool to room temp, then turn on the heat while pulling back on filament- just as it hits mp the nylon wicks out a ton of debris. repeat until you get a clean pull. it's amazing and kind of cathartic.

>>1992570
That gif is bullshit by the way.

>>1993419
oh thank god

>>1992109
how do you print someone else's gf

>>1993400
Yeah basically, even though I've never done any coding and even though I'm sure CAD is simpler I think I would get the hang of coding properly pretty quickly because of how well I understand constructing complicated interlinked CAD assemblies lol

>>1992764
>>1993364
I mostly recovered the old parameters. But what about the stray top/bottom lines?

>bed adhesion issues
>clogged nozzles
>etc. etc.
How are you guys having all these issues when I never have any? is it skill or what? maybe I'm just better at 3d printing or something

>>1993476
Basically, Josef's team did all that for you already.

>>1993464
>>1992764
Update: it only happens with Top/Bottom Pattern: Lines. When I set it to Zig Zag or Concentric, the problem disappears.

>>1993479
That's awfully nice of them.

>>1993482
It's not a charity and they charge you extra for it.

>>1993480
You should stop printing buttplugs.

>>1993493
It's not a buttplug, I'm crazy, not stupid. I know the gunk would get between the layers and I would risk getting it stuck if it split along the layers even if I wrapped it in a condom.

It's a positive mold for a negative silicone mold for an epoxy buttplug.

>>1993415
>I've been told build volume is not something to pursue in your first printer
Printing out my monitor case in multiple sections and having to glue it together was complete AIDS. Having to print out a statue in multiple sections and gluing it together was also AIDS. Go for the biggest printer you can find in your budget.

>>1993268
More like print in PLA and use that forever.

>>1993509
Big and cheap = AIDS

>>1993268
PLA melts at 200c, so I'm willing to bet it'll start sagging badly when your hotend is at 240c for the other plastics. Plus you don't even need part cooling for PETG, so a shroud isn't necessary.

>>1993485
Chinese companies are the opposite. They sell you printer dirt cheap but its not actually a working printer and you need to finish their work by yourself.

>>1993476
Congrats bro, you print something out of PLA once every 2 months and you never have any issues. You are truly a great operator of 3D printers.

Now, my Ender 3 logged 680 hours of printing time in December. Most of it was spent printing ABS, bed maxed out at 115C, stock hotend also maxed out at 260C. I didn't have a single clog, everything stuck to the bed perfectly, no ringing, no stringing, you call it. Flawless printing every time.
I did char the capricorn tube really well, but I got a Titan Aero extruder so that little problem is solved now. Looking forward to see how many hours of printing I can log this month.

>>1993241
I'm the guy with the broke dick cr10. I'm selling it and taking the punch. I'm out the game till its plug and play, or star trek. thank you guys. but this thing was a fucking nightmare since i got it. on top of it, amazon chinked me. credit card company did the 45 day review and found in amazons favor. and they sent me the wrong one too. fuck bezos and the dotheads at their hindu call center.

Is an all-metal hot end a requirement for PETG?

>>1993177
Not him, but couldn't you just get a pi and run klipper instead of dealing with Marlin stuff?

>>1993525
Too bad people whose job and/or hobby it is to create and repair things can't fix the printers, right?

>>1993268
I've been using the Satsana duct on my V2 for hundreds of hours of prints now. Printed in PLA+ and only printing PLA+ with it. No sagging or deformation at all, despite some anons here telling me it would.

>>1993529
no
it prínts worse in all metall

>>1993248
600+ scamshit machines = do the work for you
150+ chinkshit machines = do it yourself
oh what board are we on? fucking retard

>>1993531
Yeah enders are for hobbiest. Not really suited for high demand printfarms with deadlines. Reliability is just not there and too much work to keep it in printing condition.

>>1993541
You seem to be in the know. What would you recommend as a step up from my ender 3 pro? Don't need more build volume, but better accuracy would be nice. Also ABS.

>>1993538
You should keep in mind that printers are just tools for most people. If i buy a new cordless drill i dont expect that i need to fix it before i can fucking use it.

>>1993541
>Yeah enders are for hobbiest. Not really suited for high demand printfarms with deadlines. Reliability is just not there and too much work to keep it in printing condition.
t. doesn't have a printfarm
I can buy 5 Enders for the price of a Prusa, then have 3 of them outprinting said Prusa any day of the week, with one in maintenance and one in backup still. They pay for themselves within a week if you do it right.

>>1993546
Read the damn sticky.

>>1993549
>sticky
>>670504 it says nothing about printers

>>1993548
prusatards swear enders are hard to fix, when they all have the same issues that have been well documented. all it takes it proper building of the frame and capricon tubing fix. it adds not even 30 minutes to the build time.
>>1993549
like this anon said, it makes more business sense to buy more machines and build them properly than to spend it all on 1 machine. what kind of print farm retard would buy 5 prusas over 10+ enders?

>>1993550
>>1990696

>>1993553
>OP
>sticky
choose one

>>1993525
>its not actually a working printer
That's the illusion you get from all the new people buying Ender 3s and fucking up the setup because they have no idea what they're doing.
I have set up 4 Ender 3s so far, including my own. Put it together well, square it, do the eccentric nuts right, then calibrate the electronics and it works very well. The print quality is surprisingly good for such a cheap machine. Yes, that stands even for the OG ones running on 12V and with the 2040 bed extrusion.

Biggest hit in print quality comes from the fact that newbies tend to buy upgrades for it as well and install them right out of the box without having a good grasp on the thing yet. Speaking from experience here, it took me almost 3 months to get myself out of the rabbit hole I dug myself. Lots of wrenching, troubleshooting, failed prints, you name it. I only had myself to blame because for the first few prints when the machine was still 100% stock it just worked. Level bed, load filament, and voila- it worked, no headaches involved.

>>1993549
Yeah buy shit ton of chinkshit so you can use even more time maintaining them.

>>1993562
Or put them together properly and just print. For fuck's sake, where I work our students have assembled 22 Anet A6's and they work once they keep their grubby mitts off the IMPROVE button. As stock they work well, and a print farm consisting of just those would outprint any, any kind of printfarm built from twice the budget in Prusas. There's more redundancy, they print well, and the Ender 3 is leagues above that pinko Anet garbage.
Do you want to pay for security? Sure. Do you want to pay 3-5 times more? Grab a Prusa then. Do you want to pay an awful lot more? Get Ultimakers, because they're leagues ahead of the Prusa still, we've got 5 of our 10 running at any given time, and honestly, those UM2's require about as much active maintenance as an Ender and have similar downtimes. Now, please list your expertise in setting up printfarms, and tell us why the Ender isn't one of the best choices right now (preferably without mentioning the best choice, the AC Mega).

>>1993552
>what kind of print farm retard would buy 5 prusas over 10+ enders?
The same kind of retard that buys the new iPhone every year.
Prusa really is the iPhone of 3D printing - it's expensive for no fucking reason other than brand name, it's expensive but still affordable enough to have retards buying it like crazy and most of all: the userbase is made out of annoying snobs that think they're better than you.
Ultimaker isn't worthy of this title because at 4k+$ it's well over what people would be willing to pay for a home printer.

Also the fucking irony- the chinkoids who are known to half ass anything and cut every corner make the Enders out of stamped sheet metal and injection molded plastics. The resident Prusa 5oyboy cheaps out by using 3D printed shit. So much for that material quality.

>>1993566
Reliability is the most important thing if you want to keep your customers happy. Not the right place to cheap out. Chinkshit is going to let you down in the worst time when you are not expecting it or atleast you need to waste lot of time making sure everything is working perfectly.

>>1993266
>outshot
>by an ender
lol
even if true, at least I didn't spend hundreds of irreplaceable hours "troubleshooting" it to make it do the thing it's designed to do

>>1993525
this

>>1993538
>I should buy a cheap, shitty hammer because I can make a better handle when it breaks and file down the shitty metal myself
>buying quality tools to work with? nah fuck that shit, DIY

>>1993571
3D printed parts most certainly aren't cheaping out anon...

>>1993566
3D printing in general already produces such low quality work in comparison to subtractive methods that setting up a print farm that is supposed to produce happy customers and trying to use cheap printers is simply just asking for trouble

>>1993571
>it's expensive for no fucking reason other than brand name
not only that but you get less with a prusa. 8-bit board and smaller build area.

>>1993571
3d printed parts are genius because you can change designs easy without wasting money on new molds. If something is not working just redesign and start printing better versions right away.

>>1993577
>you need to waste lot of time making sure everything is working perfectly
Why do people keep saying this? You build it properly once and only have to touch it to level it every so often. Every time someone asks a question about an Ender issue here it gets solved rather quickly.

>>1993578
>>buying quality tools to work with? nah fuck that shit, DIY
terrible analogy. it's a machine not a tool.

>>1993577
>Reliability is the most important thing if you want to keep your customers happy.
Suppose you have to print 300 breathing mask adapters,, for some reason. Having 40 printers up and running always beats having 10 - reliability by numbers.
>Chinkshit is going to let you down in the worst time when you are not expecting it or atleast you need to waste lot of time making sure everything is working perfectly.
Or it doesn't. YMMV, and if you get enough of them, the milage is great. All fo my students that bought Enders are happy with them, they'll never put enough hours on them to wear them out.

>>1993580
Customers fall in two categories: companies that know what FDM printing is but outsource it, or individuals who just want something made. The former is happy to outsource and knows what FDM will look like, the latter is just happy to have something printed, both at a fraction of the price of subtractive. Using cheap printers with normal settings is plenty of good for both kinds of customers and gives you the capacity to win a local market over.

>>1993580
I'd much rather create the exact number of a part that the market will take rather than make millions of them only to find out that there's a problem with the design and suddenly it's all headed towards a landfill.

>>1993585
>without wasting money on new molds
i thought prusa was top quality non-chinkshit, but it's made with chinkshit parts and 3d printed chinkshit filament? what?

>>1993589
Alright then correction:
>yeah let me just get the Harbor Freight special belt sander and drill press
>who gives a fuck if they wobble and drill eccentric holes? They still sand things and make holes, what's the difference

>>1993579
No, they really are. Instead of paying for injection molding equipment (which is notoriously expensive) they just use a few dozen of their printers.
Again, the chinks that cut every corner can afford it but the lead retard at Prusa can't. Really makes me think, especially considering the E3 uses so few plastic parts in the first place. Prusa has a higher plastic content, it would only make sense to have them done properly and reliably with injection molding.
>inb4 muh prusa printer top reliable
Still not as reliable as injection molding which is a mature method of mass producing plastics in use for over half a century. You know what they say: It Just Works :^)

>>1993585
The main Prusa printer was basically unchanged for like what, 2-3 years? Only recently they revised the design with a few minor changes, now it has a + in its name.
And again, the chinks manage, despite having a dozen different printers on sale each with their own unique plastic parts that would each require their own molds. So no, he's cheaping out, you can't refute this.
3D printing parts makes sense in a prototyping scenario, where you want to see how everything fits and performs. Once you settle on a good part design, you can have it injection molded.

>>1993598
but the ender doesn't do any of that? it prints the same as a prusa. stop reaching

>>1993593
Prusa makes it own filament inhouse.

>>1993590
Running a print farm in general just seems like a ton of work to barely make a profit. I think I'd have to charge $50 a print.

>>1993601
Where do they get the pellets, though?

>>1993608
my guess is DuPont

>>1993603
Print farms usually aren't geared to make the same part over and over (if it's owned by the same person who made the model), it's meant to avoid needing to invest in tooling or molds for the 5, 7, 30, whatever *different* parts you need to make for your 3D printed project that would be expensive to source from traditional places because of per-part minimum prices and amounts

>>1993608
peruvian pellet mines

>>1993610
>my guess is DuPont
hahahaha you fucking wish

>>1993599
Most of the new things happen in software. Printing the parts with their own printers also let them test everything very thoroughly. Chinks just release shit every year and it is hit or miss. If something is not working its customers problem, not theirs. Wait for new printer or fix it yourself.

>>1993593
At last you finally see, anon.
I don't like dealing with the chinaman but I'd rather buy from the chinaman directly than pay a middle man.
The "locally sourced" parts are nothing more than chinkshit bought from alibaba import resellers.

>>1993601
And let me guess, the raw material for that comes from some company that imports it all from China.
What do you take us for, fools? We know it all wraps back to the eternal chinaman. You cannot escape the eternal chinaman for he produces all.

>>1993599
How retarded do you have to be to think that 3D printing your parts using European labor with your own European made filament would ever be cheaper than injection molding? The reason why Prusa 3D prints their parts is to flex and to demonstrate how capable, especially print farm capable their machine is, it's literally only done as a marketing method.

>>1993620
>buy from the chinaman directly than pay a middle man.
This is what Amazon is doing now with AmazonBasics brand. They use their sales data to find top products and snipe the manufacturers. Then they order a ton of them under the AB brand and undercut the original. Bezos is just copying China and they'll undercut him sooner or later.

>>1993626
imagine paying $1000 hard earned trump bucks on some rebranded chinkshit with shitty 3d printed parts. i'd be pissed as shit.

>>1993620
>>1993629
You claim that there exists this magical choice of buying straight from the chinaman but from what I see unless you want cheap shit that is also very much shit in quality buying straight from the chinaman is not possible.
>inb4 just as good
For some reason they just don't seem to be able to create good printers even though they have such massive amounts of industry that literally everything these days is made over there.

>>1993618
>Printing the parts with their own printers also let them test everything very thoroughly
Anon, it's okay to use 3D printing for prototyping, I already said that.
Selling prototype grade 3D printed plastics on a commercial release printer? Not cool. For something that costs 750$ for the kit and delivers the same print quality as an E3 with 100$ of upgrades, it's an absolutely shameful display.

>>1993626
>m-muh 3D printing 3D printers
Yeah, it's a great marketing stunt that gets 5oybrains excited. Anyone with more than 3 braincells steers clear from such retardation.
Again, at that price point I'd expect a lot of polish around the edges, not competing with the chinese in who can get away with fucking the customer over more.

>>1993629
Lets not get sidetracked, do you really think that 3D printing could ever be cheaper than injection molding in any way shape or form at this scale? this is a very important part because I would rather not waste my time conversing with a mentally retarded human being.

>>1993634
>delivers the same print quality as an E3 with 100$ of upgrades
ah yes, there we have it, the "just as good" argument, don't you people ever get tired of spewing this bullshit?

>>1993523
>you don't even need part cooling for PETG, so a shroud isn't necessary
Not him, but another Ender owner. Sometimes, precisely because you don't need cooling for PETg, you do need a shroud. Some Ender models' stock shroud leak part of the hotend cooling air current down onto the part. Custom shrouds separate and redirect the airflow.

Disclaimer: I have an Ender 3, but not an Ender 3 v2. Your mileage may vary. Somebody please confirm.

>>1993633
Even the basic bitch Ender 3 is 90% of the way there in terms of print quality vs a Prusa i3. It's not quite just as good, there are corners cut, but it's a very solid printer for around 200$. It's a big jump from 200$ to 1000$ only to gain a 10% increase in quality.

>>1993635
Why are you defending the use of 3d printed parts on a supposedly high end machine so adamantly? Are you the s 0 i b 0 i designer?

>>1993643
Stop dodging the question, did you, until now think that 3D printing is the "cheap" option in comparison to injection molding?
Also, I haven't defended it once, I just told you why they do it when you erroneously attributed it to them cheaping out.
Now answer to me, are you a retard or are you not?

>>1993638
No, I will say it until you get tired of it and then some because it sounds like you just can't face the fact that we can get our chinese crap to print just as well as your overpriced 5oyboy toys.
Let me tell you a secret: anyone who really knows his Ender 3 inside out can one up your 5oy machine in any field with the right upgrades and adjustments.

>>1993640
Kit version cost 750$ not 1000$ by the way.

>>1993649
And the kit takes half a day to get together for somebody who know's what he's doing, absolute newbies take more than a day. Not worth it if you value your time, Enders basically bolt together and can be up and printing within half an hour.

>>1993649
Considering the average Prusafag's ineptitude with an allen wrench, 1000$ is the correct price.

>>1993612
Yeah, that's the point. You have to be doing something that "makes" you a lot of money per print to justify buying and operating the machines in the first place. To run the print farm itself as a business and be profitable, your challenge is getting enough prints/day that you can also bill enough for to offset the cost of the space you're printing out of. Meaning: you gotta be able to handle high-value work for a lot of clients.

Who the hell is doing that and also shitposting on 4chan?

>>1993646
Original topic was prusa using 3d printed parts on a $1000 machine. It costs them less than 50 cents to print those cases. They are cheaping out and cutting corners then say they offer premium customer service. That's like having tech support for your phone. How many times are you going to use it? Not even near worth the $800 difference between an ender. Their machines probably cost them $100 in parts. Source them on Ali and then do the math on bulk discount.

So I got en Ender 3 a while ago and ran into the hotend gap problem pretty much everyone does and did the fix that was recommended here, printing a washer. This one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4220059

Ran fine for months, but I've recently got a clog and sounding the extruder nozzle with the included acupuncture needle didn't work, so I've taken apart the hotend.

Is this normal? Should I print another or is there a better fix?

>>1993656
>They are cheaping out and cutting corners then say they offer premium customer service.
Ironic, at the scale Prusa is producing injection molding would be cheaper, they're deliberately choosing an inferior manufacturing process.

>>1993651
in comparison to the average enderfag here or on reddit
>Just received my first printer, making funny smokes and sparks now. what setting should i tune to improve on this? :)

>>1993658
Throw it in the trash and buy a genuine E3D V6 as a replacement

>>1993658
Looks like you didn't fit it properly and still clogged.

>>1993663
Not in the budget, I've wasted enough money on rubber sexy toys recently.

>>1993665
How do you fit it right? It's just a washer you shove in there and screw down.

>>1993660
Post where that happened? I'm interested to see what went wrong

>>1993668
Tubing and washer should be pressed against each other

>>1993668
Actually looking at the picture again, did the washer melt?

>>1993674
Definitely seems to have since it's T shaped instead of just being a cylinder.

>>1993658
Is your nozzle tight against the interior tube, or is it tight against its shoulder?

>>1993650
Prusa mini kit cost only 350$ and is fast to put together. If you only print small parts and dont need special filaments you can build a farm relatively cheap and get them going with no mods at all.

>>1993677
Yeah that's the issue. You're printing too hot or the heat break isn't getting enough cooling. It shouldn't get that hot where the washer melts.

I have the same washer in mine and I print at 215-225 with a hero me duct.