/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1970232
>guitar pick in op
:3

>broke the heat element on my MK2S
>ordered a new one from Prusa
>now it heats up slow and wont go past 200C if the parts cooling fan is on
what do? If nobody knows what to do I'll just contact Prusa but maybe someone here knows a quick fix

I never knew PETG had this greasiness to it until I actually printed with it.

Any suggestions on keeping stringing to a minimum? I already turned in combing which helped alot. I turned down the print temperature from 240 to 230 which helped some too. I'm also having issues of leaving the printer unattended and the nozzle depositing a gigantic booger onto my part. I.e. the stringing PETG likes to clump up on the nozzle and deposit itself onto the part.

Here's my first semi-successful print with it. I still have some surface finish issues on straight walls I have to figure out.

>>1970241
Sounds like it's getting high resistance somewhere. There's no severe kinks in the wire and the connector is plugged in securely right?

>>1970242
Maybe try coasting, but it might result in little gaps here and there

>>1970244
I had to screw in the leads into the connector myself, maybe I did it incorrectly or something?

>>1970251
Nah, you probably did it fine. a heating element not heating up or taking a longer than normal time to do it just points to a broken or partially broken lead or the element itself is damaged. If you have a multimeter you could measure the resistance of it and compare to online figures or ask prusa support or something.

>>1970253
Yeah I guess I'll measure the resistance and compare it to the specs, thanks.

>>1970242
Other side.


Surface finish is acceptable on curved walls only. Very strange.

>>1970256
You're going to be mounting the flat side to something anyway. If it really bothers you, give it a few coats of acrylic paint and it'll be just fine.

first ever print. seems decent, the only issue I had was trying to get the raft off. I just ended up clipping off the brim of it, but the bottom still has the raft. did it on the cr-10 v2

How necessary are supports on filament vs resin? I am setting up the CR10 to potentially print a baby yoda for a christmas present, but there seems to be an ton of auto supports in Cura that seem excessive, and the file I am using is set to print at an angle on its back instead of bottom up, and claims to be 0 error, yet has next to no platform contact

>>1970263
actually it's going on a sling. pic related. you can see two holes in the first pic. those screws will drive themselves into the sling and keep it where it needs to be.

But that doesn't mean i won't print other things that have flat sides. I'd like to get to the bottom of this so I don't have to struggle with print quality in PETG.

>>1970269
Rafts are shit and should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.
>>1970271
Why not just get a proper shotgun sling?
I figured you were going to make something like this.

>>1970274
I just did the model that was on the sd card that came with it. I don't think I'll use them anymore, idk what the use for them would really be.

>>1970275
They can make sense for parts that would otherwise be difficult to remove from the plate, maybe some cases where it's easier to get it to adhere to a raft than the plate, but overall they're just not worth it.

>>1970274
>Why not just get a proper shotgun sling?
because I rather enjoy the look of this green, heavy canvas sling on my shotgun.

>>1970281
https://www.amazon.com/Haoyipu-Tactical-Bandolier-Military-ArmyGreen/dp/B0829V74WQ

>>1970293
Thanks. I'll just buy a new one instead of troubleshooting and fixing the problems with my 3D printer.

/3dpg/ solving issues again.

anon who printed cat here.
did the xyz cube, fast settings and I did a brim. on the bed where the brim should be is just a yellow stain but no plastic, and on the bottom of the cube (as can be seen) is like a lip. and for some reason there is a blob on the right front corner. what is the issue?

>>1970325
looks like you have the nozzle too close to the bed / too high of a build plate temperature.

That's called an elephant's foot by the way.

>>1970325
As a recent Ender owner, things I recommend doing first before having an aneurysm over are squaring the frame, checking all screws and belts are tight (not over tightened either), hot end fix and upgraded capricorn tubing and stiffer bed springs.

>>1970327
I'll try changing the level and heat for the next test.
>>1970338
>squaring the frame
not sure what you mean by that
>checking all screws and belts are tight
they seem pretty good
>hot end fix
not sure what you mean by fixing it
>carpicorn
have will try replacing now
>stiffer springs
will look into

>>1970321
You're putting a big rigid piece of plastic on it. It's not going to be even remotely as comfortable to wear, holds were rounds and is of unknown durability.

>>1970368
fewer* rounds

>>1970368
>implying it's not going to be at the bottom most part of the sling at the buttstock where it's not an issue
>implying PETG won't hold up to holding a fucking shotgun shell

>holds were rounds
????

I'm actually having trouble with the rounds coming out. Once it's fully loaded the stacked up flex really holds those rounds damn good. I'm thinking of reducing the height of the curved section so there's less friction.

I honestly never thought I'd get into a gun accessory debate in /3dpg/. And I haven't a clue why you're trying to nit pick it in the first place. if you don't have a clue on why my PETG is stringing why even answer?

>>1970374
You could make multiple smaller parts that chain together. Then you can change the number of shells it holds whenever you want, offer more flexibility in the sling and you get to print a single one to test fit shells, rather than six at a time.

I have a cr10 that's about three years old at this point. I want to print cf-nylon and similar more exotic materials. I also want auto bed leveling via bl touch. I know I need an all metal hot end and a hardened steel nozzle. I need to also upgrade the controller to handle the new hardware configuration. What board/firmware is your recommendation? Some possibilities:
>upgraded cr10s board with marlin
>duet wifi
>?
Budget for upgrades is $500.

Any chinkshit E3D V6 clones that are all metal?

lads
I only started looking at 3d printing in the last few days and formlab's equipment gets me excited especially with its materials like glass-reinforced resins, specifically the 10k and 4k formlabs materials.
Are there places online where I can get glass-reinforced SLA prints ordered? I want to start touching and playing with this shit.

After 4 years of an Anet A8 frankenstein of upgrades I bought an Ender 3 V2 and am now converting my A8 to a Core XY Slim off thingiverse.

>>1970346
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw

3dtouch probed and leveled once. Then went into alarm mode and it's staying there. Anyone got one? Worked fine one time. Hasn't worked since abed level.

>>1970155
Whaaat the fuck. I didn't know I made it into an OP. Feels nice, but goddamn, that picture has to be at least two or three years old.

>>1970414
You can ask Formlabs themselves for a free sample on the site. You can't choose the part, but it's fun enough that you can play around with (and postprocess/break/whatever) and just get another if you want.

>>1970413
pick any, if you want to be extra sure order an extra throat, maybe eben a titanium one, they aren't expensive. I got my volcano from "mellow" and some upgrade parts from trianglelabs, both on Ali/ banggood
>>1970424
>alarm mode
never encountered that, did you check if anything came loose? my 3dtouch works fine for 2 months now.
>>1970421
nice, any pics?
>>1970396
>$40 ruby nozzle or those expensive carbide steel nozzels
>$50 upgrade board+steppers, any
>$40 raspberry pi running klipper, adds WiFi+browser capability
>$10-40 abl-sensor
>$20 bmg v2 extruder
>$15 for a box and 1kg of silica gel
>$35 volcano hotend with upgraded heatblock or a mosquito hotend
>$20 for bits and bops, e.g. a can for the rpi setup, a big box as enclosure etc
that should do as baseline, take better parts to your liking

>>1970421
Did you add bl touch to your a8? I've been thinking of doing that to mine.

Designed and printed a coffee tamper that can probably double up as a buttplug
Nothing much but came out clean.

>>1970241
>If nobody knows what to do I'll just contact Prusa
This is the first thing you should have done, before posting here.

>>1970527
>Nothing much but came out clean
came out from where?

>>1970532
Maybe, but the people here tend to be extremely knowledgeable...

>>1970537
>people here tend to be extremely knowledgeable
Some of them. But it's more general knowledge, not prusa specific knowledge.
And also Josef Prusa get's a small heart attack every time someone ask for help for prusa machine somewhere on the internet and not on their support page.
Somehow he made me promise I will always tell those people to go to Prusa 24/7 chat support.

>>1970444
2018
its pretty old

Welp, fight stick is all done. I release it to the universe because. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675614

>>1970552
Do you have an image from the top?
Also looks nice.

My shotgun fore-end went and split in half so I printed a new fore-end

>>1970580

>>1970506
Can you do me a favor and measure the diameter of the hot end (assuming you got the exact volcano clone) so I can see if it'll fit in my CR10V2 without having to print or modify the existing fan duct?

Anon here. I designed a new instrument, a moon shaped ukulele called a Luna-lele.

>>1970567

>>1970621
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675614
Nice, well done, anon.
You can apply PU for a smooth and glossy finish to fill up the gaps.

>>1970594
that's pretty gay

>>1970710
zoomer hands typed this post

>>1970507
I got so quick at manual leveling I never felt the need but if I were to ever start producing the product I have in mind (numerous shorter prints rather than my usual long ones) I'd invest in it.
>>1970506
Will do once it is done. I keep being retarded and starting 8 hour prints before bed and forgetting to set my bed temp correct and waking up to a knocked off part and a rat's nest.

The CR10v2 does alot better with small detail than I expected. This was with the default .4 nozzle.

Still pointless compared to using a resin printer, but atleast I know if I need fine detail I can get it. Using a different filament and a slower speed would probably do the trick.

tried lowering the bed from yesterday. didn't help. it's weird, blobs form on the front right and back left.I'll try messing with it a bit more.

>>1970789
Check your belts

>>1970748
0.2 nozzle my dude. Works wonders.

>>1970796
Does it slow down prints though? Or just reduces durability unless you increase wall size and such? I think I already bought some smaller nozzles to have on hand, but I am not sure if I really even need to use them since I mostly plan to use the CR10 for much larger prints

>>1970800
You have to set line width to .2 or you'll get spaghetti.

>>1970800
>Does it slow down prints though?
Yes, because you're extruding less material and you also have to go slower with a 0.2 nozzle to actually get that quality.
You also need to tune slicer settings, namely line width and wall line number if the slicer doesn't adjust it for you.

>>1970790
belts are tight. I will probably have to try and square up the frame. when I used a leveling device, the bed is completely level, but the nozzle touches the front right, while the back left has a big gap. I truly have no idea what is going on. when all corners are near the nozzle, the leveling device says its tilted. (by leveling device I don't mean a bed leveling device, just a electronic bubble level)

>>1970834
I installed Crusa 4.2 or w/e on crealities site and immediately got told there was an update for 4.8 from Ultimake. Installed that but it kept the profiles so I have nozzle and quality settings for creality ready for use.

Real question is what I want to do about speed and temps with a .2 and the filaments I have. If I think about it in theory I can also save plastic using the .2 nozzle but some of these bigger prints are going to end up taking 4-7days and seem very likely to be fragile or fail halfway through

>>1970847
You use 0.2 when you need the details. For anything else 0.4 is very good. Also, for a CR-10 or big prints in general you want to up your nozzle size if possible to save time.

>>1970848
Unfortunately I am going to be doing some bigger prints of figures for gifts so I would like to keep detail, but at this size speed becomes a nightmare. .4 nozzle and .2 layers might be perfectly fine at the size though, and a filler primer to help cover any layer lines might work too.

I should have started this ages ago and not waiting until December

>>1970845
Tighten front right screw

>>1970545
Anyone have the files for the chess pieces?

>>1970855
>2018
lurk in the archives
I have posted archives of dragon chess pieces multiple times since then

>>1970845
Whether the bed is level relative to the Earth is irrelevant. What matters is that the X axis of the bed is relative to the X axis of the extruder and the Y axis of the bed relative to the Y axis of the extruder. You could have the whole printer sitting on its side and still print a good part.

>>1970860
>He isn't an aussie who prints filament upside down and resin top down

>>1970862
Nah, I like owning pump shotguns.

>>1970852
>>1970852
ok. yea I can get it level then just fine. I tried using the elephant foot setting on cura. I brought it in -.2mm. and it got rid of it 90% of the way, the coners are all the same now, ever so slight elephant foot now. but now there are little blobs on one side

>>1970862
>he doesn't SLA print in zero-g
Lightweight.

>>1970865
What temps are you using?

here are the blobs on the bottom. the layers above don't have them.
>>1970875
200 for nozzle, 45 for bed.

>>1970877
That is some serious squishing. Level the bed but properly this time, set initial layer flow to 90%, initial layer line width to 95% and initial layer horizontal expansion to -0.2
Also calibrate Esteps.

>>1970527
printer?

>>1970877
https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/removing-zits-and-blobs-on-your-3d-prints-adjust-your-slicing-resolution

Are direct extruders worth grabbing? How do you deal with the feed angle and all?

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-titan-extruder-direct-drive-for-cr-10-v2

Changing filament and feeding into the sensor and tube hole is something of a hassle so this is a bit tempting

>>1970902
If you want to use flexible filaments, it's basically obligatory.

>>1970905
No it's not.
t. prints flexibles on a Bowden Ultimaker.

>>1970848
How does larger nozzle effect print quality? Could I still do .1 or .2 thick layers with a larger nozzle to get thicker walls building up but decent slice quality and resolution to save time?

How do I price a 3D print? I'd like to sell a design I made but I have no idea how to price it. Do I do it by gram?
Advice plox.

When changing filament do you have to pull the old line out fully, or can you feed a new one into the tube under the expectation the new one will push the remaining line down and out the extruder?

>>1970934
You can do either, but I like to heat up the nozzle to around 75C then pull it out completely. Like this it comes out with whatever impurities built up in the nozzle and I don't have to waste as much filament extruding mid air until I get to the new material.

This is a PSA to anyone with a CR-10 having leveling trouble because the right side of the X gantry is several mm too high. These two screws handle the alignment of the pulley system for that side if the arm. If you loosen then then you can shift the arm down slightly. For some reason no online source suggested this as a fix.

>>1970915
Don't print layers taller than half the nozzle diameter.

>>1970917
Material + print time + whatever time/materials spent finish it by hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1Dpz35HLOI
Man, I'm tempted to use one of these for my printer.

>>1970951
No shit sherlock, anyone with two braincells looking at the thing knows that

>>1970959
*70% of nozzle diameter

>old phone pointed at printer in the other room
>running Open Camera
>monitoring via scrcpy on PC in another room
sure beats walking over there every few minutes

>>1970971
You wouldn't have guessed from the bullshit advice you see online. Shit about turning one side of the screws and not the other, taking the whole arm off. Stuff that either doesn't work or is way too much work when the real solution is simple as hell.

>>1970975
I literally looked at it during assembly and put it together square and firm. How bad do you have to be to not fix something as simple as geometry right from the start?

>>1970970
>watching some 85 IQ human-shaped slime blob shill you shit
your life must be shit, anon.

>>1970982
why don't you just go fuck yourself then? I've been asking about this issue for days and no one here suggested that, so I posted it for anyone else who has that problem. That way when they come in here asking for advice they don't have to deal with cocksuckers like you that would rather call anyone having trouble a retard instead of just fucking helping them.

What are the benefits of lower resolution? Is it stronger or less likely to fail the print or is the only benefit faster print time? I'm looking at a design with 24.5 hours at 0.2 but 25 hours at 0.16.

>>1970983
The Linus Tech Tips team as a whole is gold. Hold your tongue!

>>1971008
>watching that onions beta faggot shill you shit
oh anon...
do you also watch home shopping channel? it's the same shit you know.

>>1971002
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbSQvJJjw2Q

>>1970986
What did you not understand about checking if your printer is square? Checking the screws and mounting? Checking if stuff is flush or not?
I mean you look at it and it is there. Ain't something to be explained or spoonfed.

>>1971050
what did you not understand about go fuck yourself?

>>1970232
I wanna try making a crossbow, anybody have a STL? What should I make the limbs out of?

>>1970269
why would you need a raft? change print adhesion test to skirt instead of raft or brim

>>1971064
What did you not understand about not being shit?

>>1971080
Not him but that model comes with the printer in the form of a pre-sliced gcode, with a raft.
I too used it as my first print, put in a screw mid print to make it rattle

>>1971087
Also the raft just peels off.

>>1971091
whenever i print raft it's totally adhered to my bottom layer and just becomes part of the model and i have to use hobby knife to separate it

>>1970960
>Material + print time + whatever time/materials spent finish it by hand.
thanks anon!

>>1971096
There is this setting called raft air gap which dictates how hard your print adheres to the raft.
I find that for stuff that's not too bit or tall 0.15mm is good.

>>1971104
Is there really even any benefit to a raft on filament printing? I usually use one on resin since there are already supports anyways so its a nice easy pop off, but it seems pointless here. The skirt to check level and then just whatever supports the slicer generates seems sufficient

>>1971107
Yes. ABS just loves to warp, most of the times you need extra bed adhesion to hold it down so it doesn't fuck itself. Brims do jack shit, they can't even hold down PLA, let alone ABS. So whenever I'm printing something that's over 1cm tall I have to use a raft if I want it to turn out nice and straight.

>>1971113
>Brims do jack shit, they can't even hold down PLA
Get your parameters and printed tuned, anon

Does extruder temp effect print quality at all? For example if you are printing at a higher temp I could image the lines may melt and blend together better

>>1971209
Yes. There are a bunch of temperature tower tests online to help with calibrating it.
Keep in mind that even just different colors of the same brand of PLA or whatever can require slightly different temps.

what causes this? Clog?

>>1971232
Probably. Otherwise your temperature or feed rate are off.

this is an interesting design I saw online, but is it even possible to print? maybe supports inside, but idk how you would get them out.

>>1971261
With soluble material for the supports if you have a dual extruder maybe?

>>1971261
>>1971274
yep. PVA or HIPS dissolvable supports is possible with a dual extrusion FFF printers.
but this piece was either sintered or printed with SLA/DLP. just by looking at it, I'd say it's SLA/DLP. sintering has a rougher finish.

>>1971283
>>1971274
kinda new, and don't plan on it for a long time, but can you resume prints after parts have cooled? like if you made 3 models, 1 for the bottom, 1 for the support, and the last for the top. and just switch the filament for each model. could you theoretically make a whole model that is connected?

>>1971284
No. That's not currently possible because each layer has to be of uniform filament. Print head aka "Hot End" cannot move between layers since it would bump into other layers. Maybe there could be a software that could calculate all the paths and avoid bumps and even do z-hopping but ti would be incredibly complex.

>>1971285
ah true. you would almost have to do it layer by layer while pausing and switching, and at that point it's so much work that you're better off getting a dual extruder

>>1971287
maybe someone can write some g-code that can do that. it would be a great PhD thesis.
I don't think anything does it today... which is a shame.

>>1971261
You could get something similar to it with a huge nozzle and cura's wire printing feature.

>>1971298
The dip in the middle would require a lot of support.
Hypothetically, you could do it with a five axis FDM printer, but that's not very well developed yet.

>>1971306
The wire printing feature in cura doesn't even use supports. I managed to print a skull to human scale with it as a little experiment. it came out quite decent.

>>1971312
the issue with the bowl is that it goes back down. if it was a dome it would work. but it cant print layers below other ones.

>>1971306
actually, do you think if I tried modifying the model by having some of the wire shapes come up to support the center it could hold? or do you think the overhang of the rest is too extreme?

>>1971316
You could have tree supports that go through the mesh, but it'd be pretty precarious. I expect the underside of the dip would be rough, not that you'd really see the underside much.

>>1971317
final idea. maybe too simple to be true. how about flipping it upside down? do you think there is a possibility it could work? or too thin of support to build it

>>1971321
The bottom part has too much of an overhang and you'd end up with the solid portion that is actually visible in use looking like shit.

>>1970581
>>1970580
Based

some of the bits for a mechanical iris. I think I'd just print one leaf for reference then cut the ones I'll actually use out of sheet metal.

Does Cura have a floater/print error check tool? I am trying to reduce the infill for supports and when checking layer by layer I am finding blatant floaters that seem impossible to print. To make matters worse a lot of them actually seem to be the model itself not having enough infill between top and bottom layers.

>>1971371
very nice. are you building a camera?

>>1971374
I want to make a spherical raspberry pi housing with a tiny (2" or so) screen with a magnifying glass and an iris in front of it. This one is just a prototype- the final should be about the size appropriate for one of those magnifier lamp lenses.

What would be neat is is if I can mount pic related on either side so you just kind of hold it to use it.

As a first printer, how is the Artillery sidewinder X1?
yes, no, maybe?

>>1971377
interesting. is that keyboard also 3d printed?

>>1970586
you will need a new fanduct with the volcano as the nozzle sits lower. If you want to keep the stock duct you can get a titanium throat and a v6 style plated copper heaterblock plus fitting electronics and reuse the cooling block from your stock hotend

I designed a trading card frame that holds Ultrapro toploaders.

>>1971209
it should affect layer adhesion at most. If i'm printing a purely cosmetic part that wont experience much if any mechanical load, I print at ~190c. Hotter temps for the rest. This is for PLA though.

What's the best way to apply this kind of 3D geometric/low polygon triangle mesh pattern to a surface? Is there a way to generate and apply this automatically or programmatically (even if it requires some adjustment by hand afterwards) instead of doing it completely manually?

>>1970232
Is there a printable plastic that is solid but soft enough where you could push your fingernail into it?

>>1971513
Maybe thibra3d skulpt?

>>1970545
oh shit, a pic of my old helmet and shitty old printer

>>1971481
By printing the surface vertically

>>1971456
That's pretty neat

>>1971385
https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:dactyl

>>1971298
>cura's wife printing feature
Ah, if only it were possible

Redpill me on PMMA.
Is it worth trying to print with it and why? Also what are the hardware requirements to print it?

>>1970621

how the heck is it so smooth?

>>1971232
I had an almost identical issue and I solved it by changing the nozzle with a new one.

Maybe cleaning it does it too but they're so cheap that why bother?

>>1971593
You can clean it hot. I pulled the filament and sure enough found a glob on the end, then stuck the little nozzle reamer in there to open it back up. Then printed
>>1971371
First actually successful prints yet.

>>1971596
yeah but nozzles are like 50 cents, you change one every 6 months and you are set

>>1971598
So I saved 50 cents

>>1971590
Just looks sanded down, it only looks smoother because of the matte finish. Ironing top surface setting would be nice on that though.

>>1970232
Is it possible to 3D print an object with two different filaments? For example, have the base of the object be one material and the body be anlther?

>>1971608
yes

>>1971608

just pause the print and change filaments as you would normally, don't forget to tune temperature parameters though.

not that I have done it though, might have some adhesion issues.

Am I mistaken in thinking this will blatantly fail to print? Is a higher infill density necessary to support floating layers?

>>1971608
Yes, it's possible.
In Cura you have pause at Z in the post processing options. Use that. Don't use the filament change one as it just performs the filament loading/unloading moves without actually stopping and waiting for you to change the filament.

>>1971612
It depends on what you're printing but if you're printing 2 different materials then you want to start printing with the new one at temperatures you used for the first one or higher.
Pic related, Ender Dragon head printed with 2 materials. Black is PETG, gray is PLA. I started printing the PLA at 240C, same temp I used for the PETG, after the first layer was done I set it to 215.
They hold fairly well, although it's nowhere near what you'd get with a standard single filament print.

>>1971620
is it really worth doung this just for a color change? Painting would be easier and leaa risky to the print I think. I could understand the utility in mixing different materls for their properties though, like a stiff PLA with a more rubbery section of a different material.

Anybody have any experience with anycubic printers? I have my eye on a 3d printer and laser engraver unit.

They junk to be avoided or halfway decent?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anycubic-Mega-Pro-3D-Printer-Laser-Engraving-2-in-1-High-precision-Quiet-Drive/284006522366?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item42201b9dfe:g:qg0AAOSwXE5fsrja&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickk7PdDazAlGltMLJlUhrWsDyPs151Cus3bnELXZ81brg12nimUC1nRiGExDdjuoqKc73fpX%252F17wWi%252Bc4kco9MFlIeVJUkE1aPjjdj57aFohEbrJALkFBM7%252BdkP52c0Ga05eGX%252Bdr9gVJ87k36HO%252FdIJhAs8Gwt8v8I3tgN6xWcy3cdq5RS6mbDpH32THB3Eb4fIHFlYZxr%252B1tO9ERYhYKX7HZJV120xHSLX9trQl8CFI19fCG46%252FKVGotMp2evgd1whUi1bG6XgOaUMf9bg80tuRax%252FjIO%252B9LKwIiynQOD5pvEoE%252B6cR8lNjT8yyKSlsK7e4Y86CdK2SjzqOxwcYR6t3hzge0neXDs3YlM0Sqysrmg1fw1%252F3c3GYAEmIzJXgme1kSSK4MaPQs%252FWPriTcsRwC8TNcU9qGndk1jT%252FCoownwI%252B9l%252B5ImURFK3llHyP2w5wxHCSkzpJskqT2swnE4wucVEUe%252FSFSOlCc5ZcFYRmWU4Nzp2JqzHVSHijEwStA1LVPYGBFyDlsGnk3FDrKZWTiKpXlyyoxuUHe%252BaDTRwE1DdvVIU9mFBk1%252BgDy43%252FupvhbYz17KCXFhh9%252Fetsh6uvoDHU2kgNRPlK6d2Y1MIwWO4ei6tpoDMTyo9pt3fSUGS%252BbZCe0SDgl2HzukkkHkCXWq1I06bGtaUZgXBb0ntDlRBLDIRwc0AAEUiZx2l8qiLPGdvg8IIXehJfgSbuySuwWC7Wcs2sg7m6B6son%252F%252FZJBkzVBidoPY8bnjXz44xQrA%7Ccksum%3A284006522366d87a0441c8a841cb93346da6c963c1b7%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

>>1971626
Holy fuck sorry for that absolute unit of a link lmao

>>1971626
you know you can trim off referer crap from urls?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anycubic-Mega-Pro-3D-Printer-Laser-Engraving-2-in-1-High-precision-Quiet-Drive/284006522366

>>1971626
Anycubic is pretty good, Mega series especially. No idea how good that engraver is (don't get your hopes up), but the 3D-printer underneath should be solid.

>>1971624
I'm shit with a paintbrush. If I could get the Ender 3 to paint it for me then I certainly would do it.
I also did it because I happened to have the right colours on hand. I wanted to do the neck like this as well but the filament change script fucked me over, so I think I'll print another batch in dual colour and use these all black ones to make a dragon for my friend.

>>1971590
>>1971600
No post-processing or ironing. You're looking at the bed side; it's smooth because it was printed against the flat PEI.

>>1971619
First layers are always droopy but it should work since there is only a one layer gap. There should be 2 or 3 layers on top of that floating one and the third should already look good.

>>1971633
>I'm shit with a paintbrush
for Minecraft models especially it would be trivial to blue tape it. You could even spray paint it after taping.

>>1971638
So the yellow "top/bottom" layer content isn't really a concern. As long as the shell layers have some support under it I don't really need to be that worried if some of these inner layers may be a bit floppy?

I'm not really seeing anyone complain on guides or discuss this concern, but I am a resin printing just now messing with FDM so it feels wrong to have magic extended floaties (despite the fact those floaties actually would work better in resin)

>>1970232
Does anyone know of a decent rainbow filament? Preferably in PETG but PLA/PLA+ would also work. There are a bunch of amazon but they all color shift way too slowly for anything but huge prints. I am looking for something that shifts color every 5-10 grams ideally rather than the 50-100 that everything seems to have.
Also, are there any decent glow in the dark PETG filaments? I see a ton of PLA ones but the only PETG one I could find had terrible reviews.

>>1971641
Then again, I can see right here an example where it starts a yellow layer in the middle of the void with nothing under it until it makes a bit of contact like 25% into the outer line. This can't possibly work.

>>1971646
You can increase the infill percentage, but I had top/bottom shell layers start in mid air on infill, it was droopy and shit but the layer above always came out better. I always set 4 as top/bottom layer count because the first top layer always simply becomes a support for the rest and I only care if the top 2 layers come out good.

>>1971647
Looks like the current thickness settings shake out to 7 top/bottom layers, so it has a decent amount of stacking and the later layers make more contact with the outside shell and should support fine. At that point it sort of seems the slicer is wasting a bunch of plastic creating floating layers that serve no function and may even end up shaking around inside loosely.

Boggles my mind the logic wouldn't atleast start the lines against a existing shell or infill point.

>>1971653
It will, there is always some amount of oozing and smearing. Actual print does not look exactly like the slicer simulation.

I'm somewhat new to 3D printing, and I'm slightly confused about one thing.

When descriptions on Thingiverse talk about print resolution, in Cura, does that translate to this option?

>>1971737
Probably. That's your layer height.

>Peel up cooled test strip on my cr10
>It goes perfectly between my finger and nail, and goes in about 2/3 of the way

>>1971737
yes, but do some testing before deciding that smaller=better. There is often a sweet spot depending on nozzle size.

>>1971777
they include a scraper for a reason, anon

>>1971803
Its the textured plate, using the scrapper just seems like it would leave gouges

>>1971804
just be gentle and use a low angle

>>1971373
Try tree supports. It's in the experimental settings.

>>1971804
I have two scrapers. One is a flexible but sharpened paint scraper that I mostly use for the PEI buildplates to clean skirts off and get underneath more firmly adhered parts.
For the textured buildplates I have more of a really wide thin chisel that is way sharper. If a part is REALLY stuck to one of those buildplates I have to use the chisel upside-down (flat side against the underside of the part) so it can peel the part off the plate.

>>1971810
In 4.8 tree supports are officially in the main settings. I'm testing them as well since they seem to be much less wasteful and easier to remove, but in this particular case the problem was supporting the "top" of a hollowed out model. Basically its a recessed area so it doesn't have shell support and needs to rest on the infill. The system doesn't see to generate supports internally if necessary.

I did however try also doing another part of the model that had some big islands with zigzag instead of cubic fill, and the coverage area of the grid seems much better to support layers despite only being at 5%.

>>1971815
I have a couple of different scrapers and squeegees I use for resin vats, but usually you can just take out the vat and push the bottom to pop stuff off, plus its much more sensitive to scrapers. Realistically a minor gouge probably wouldn't hurt the bed too bad for the CR10, but so far if I let stuff cool it comes off easily enough.

>>1971737
Switch to Custom, those sliders won't give you any good results

>>1971818
>In 4.8 tree supports are officially in the main settings
Neat. I've been putting off updating it for a while.
> so far if I let stuff cool it comes off easily enough
I babied the crap out of my glass plate and it still ended up losing that (at least with PLA, but that's the only filament I'm printing ATM). Now I just use the scraper that came with my Ender 3 and put it as shallow an angle I can. No visible scratches/gouges yet.

self leveled bed to where there is slight friction between the nozzle and paper, but not a lot. flipped bed over to make sure it was some leftover residue from earlier prints. nozzle temp 200 bed temp 45. cura had top/bottom speed at 22mm/s (this is first layer)
I didn't see anything in the guide that correlated with this issue directly.

My BL Touch clone called "3D Touch" finally arrived. What's the best guide for installing this thing on an Ender3? I'm not a very skilled person :\

>>1971834

Oh, good question. I have one coming as well. My guess would be to print some kind of bracket for it first. Then you're gonna have to connect it to the printer's mainboard. I hope you're running a custom mainboard and not stock because I don't think the stock E3 one has connections for a BL Touch

>>1971835
>Oh, good question. I have one coming as well. My guess would be to print some kind of bracket for it first.
got it! yeah, I need something to screw it in. any suggestions for something that works with stock E3 hotend? I have modified nothing so far.
> Then you're gonna have to connect it to the printer's mainboard. I hope you're running a custom mainboard and not stock because I don't think the stock E3 one has connections for a BL Touch
From what I remember, it plugs into the Z-stop, no? I don't think I need a new motherboard just to install BLTouch... hmmmm...
Thanks.

The easy part is done.
Im not sure how i will incorporate a 1mm opening mesh into the frame, the wires are too thick to simply push in with a soldering iron.

>>1971833
Set initial layer flow rate to 90%, initial layer line width to 95% and initial layer horizontal expansion to -0.2

>>1970845
belts can also be too tight, which causes you to loose steps, though it doesnt look like thats your problem, its something to be aware of

why are there so many fucking versions of Ender 3 and CR-10?

>>1971850
>why are there so many fucking versions of Ender 3 and CR-10?
to make more money.

>>1971846
from yesterday, that's the setting I have it at.

>>1971839

Yeah, as far as I understand it you need a custom mobo for the bltouch on the ender3, creality sells it as a kit on their official store. Price goes up by 4x though.

https://banggood.app.link/thBvhVq31bb

>>1971854
If you have one of the newer 32 bit boards installed in your printer, those have a BLtouch port.
Open up the electronics case and see what's written on the board, if it's a version 1.x board then it's 8 bit. 32 bit boards are version 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 for the silent one. Also the 32 bit ones should be black.

Also I have one of those adapter kits just sitting uselessly since I have the silent board, if you happen to live in Romania I'd be down for giving it to you.

>>1971854
you don't need any of that.

>>1971846
ok so I tried lowering the bed, it made it worse so I'll try raising it till it stops. ill bbl if it works.

>>1971859

thnx for the offer and information desu.

I just checked and mine does need the adapter thing, however i've already purchased the full pack last week and I'm waiting on delivery. I'm also not from Romania.

maybe >>1971839
needs it and is reachable tho.

>>1971848
increased gap between bed and nozzle. the paper method sucks. it's fixed now.

>>1971839

>any suggestions for something that works with stock E3 hotend?

No, idea sorry

>it plugs into the Z-stop, no

I have an Ender 3 V2 so I have a dedicated socket for a BL touch. I don't know if it plugs into the Z-stop otherwise. That would make sense though

ok, for anyone who doesn't like the paper method, I came up with the retard method. lower/raise the bed while it's printing. I set it to where there is enough of a gap to create caps between each line. then lower it until it's passed them touching.
how fucked is this method?

>>1971903
That's what the Live Z Adjust feature is on Prusas. Pretty much how you're supposed to do it anyway.

>>1971904
ok and just to check. when the gap is too much there is separation and each like is kinda shiny, when it's too smooshed, it's matte and closed. so I go for it where there is no more separation but just a tiny bit of shininess? does that sound right?

>>1971852
Then you have overextrusion globally, See how it comes out when you dial down the flow rate on the printer to 95% then calibrate esteps

>>1971903
very, this is how you crash the hot end into the bed or completely burn up the motors if it gets stuck. or you make some nasty marks on your bed.

>>1971906

>>1971907
I'll look into that
>>1971912
well it didnt get stuck yet and I started by lowering the bed first to not crush the hot end.

>>1971903
>>1971916
Why don't you just, you know, unlock the drivers and move the head around as close to the bed as possible but making sure it doesn't scrape?

>>1971917
that's what I did, I used the paper method, I'm guessing it could be what >>1971907 said

>.8mm nozzle
man, for functional prints this shit is the bomb. It took me 2 hours to print a 6.25" x 4" x 6" outer casing.

I would however like to figure out why PETG is such a bitch with stringing. I'm about to just order more PLA because everything I've tried doesn't really help.

>>1971932
Try Greentec and Greentec Pro for higher thermal stability prints

>>1971932
That's just how PETG is. Even with 0.4 it strings quite a bit and it's very hard to tune it out completely, with 0.8 it should have no problems leaving cobwebs all over the place.
Why exactly are you printing PETG anyways, is PLA not good enough?

That chink cunt triggering me with the conveyor belt printer. Shes up there with Prusa....

>first time printing with a 1.2mm nozzle
>works well except hardware problems
>part cooler somehow unplugged, spool drifted and caught onto a screw, jammed and causing the print to fail
>restart print
>extruder only prints purge line and then stops spinning
>sometimes only half the purge line
>sometimes it does the first layer and then stops
I checked the wiring and connections, everything is nice and tidy. can I fry a stepper by leaving it run jamming for 5min? or is the stepper driver toast? the extruder works when I control it over the display

>>1971970
Oooh, thinks for the ideal. I need to go and look for Danbo print models

>>1971970
What printer?
Have you checked its not thermal runaway?
Does the printer stay hot?
Does it continue printing without the stepper running?

>>1971965
I've been wanting to print more durable parts, mostly. Can't make half the parts i wanna make out of PLA because of it's brittleness.

I have a non-circular hole that is too small for a non-circular peg. What's the best way to go about testing dimensional accuracy so I can just get this fucking peg into the hole? Pic related: It's depicting my end goal.

>>1971989
Try taking a picture of the hole head on with a penny next to it, now you have a solid reference point with a known measurement right next to it which you can use to model it up in CAD.

I remember reading that brass nozzles are unsuitable for printing anything food related because they contain lead. How big of an issue is that, really?

>>1971995
>How big of an issue is that, really?
how much of your nozzle is actually eroding away into the plastic?

I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you're inhaling lead fumes/particles it's not as much of a health hazard as it's made out to be.

>>1971995
I'd be less worried about the nozzle, and more about the smoothness and durability of the print. I have a food processor/mixer that has a kneading blade that doesn't work as well as I want and I am tempted to try and print a frame or something to hold some heavy duty metal wires to act as kneaders but I am 99% sure it will shatter, and if it doesn't wont last or will grow bacteria

>>1971999
>how much of your nozzle is actually eroding away into the plastic?
No idea. I presume a fair bit with some filaments just judging from the pics.
>it's not as much of a health hazard as it's made out to be.
Hmm.. I don't buy that. But the amount of lead that's eroded can't be that great... still, I don't know how much of it is an issue.
>>1972004
>or will grow bacteria
Yeah, that's also my worry. All those crevices in the print are a perfect place for bacteria to grow and potentially become a health hazard.

So, printing anything that might be used for food storage or use while cooking is a bad idea?

I wanted to print a spatula that would fit in a thin-walled bottle...

>>1971989
>What's the best way to go about testing dimensional accuracy
Model a thin plate with the intended hole size in increasing size in small increments like +.010" per hole in sequence.
Once the print is done test it for fit and go with that size hole in the final print.

Process might need to be repeated for other orientations on the hole.

Is it realistically possible to print polycarbonate with a CR-10 Max?

Will I have to upgrade the firmware?

I already have an AMHE.

>>1970270
If you associate with anyone who would accept a 3D printed baby yoda for Christmas, you should probably leave this board.

Your biggest issue is going to be ambient temperature because getting the parts to not warp but the filament to not ooze is a fucking nightmare.

I have a 2+ year old TV and one of the legs is cracked and I've used some CA to glue it back together but I don't think it will last long. I'm afraid of it toppling over (it's 65" and heavy).
I've only found spares on eBay but they're $65+$20 shipping which is insane.
I'd like to 3D print it of course but I have no idea how to model something this complex. How would one go about modeling this? What program should I use? Can it be scanned? And is PLA good enough for this?

>>1972018
*By the way, I should clarify: the max nozzle temp is 260 degrees celsius, and the max bed temp is 60 degrees celsius. If I change the firmware to raise the maximum temperature, do I risk damaging the hardware? Additionally, I can't find any Marlin configs for a CR-10 Max :(

>>1972004
Acetone smooth and polish your parts, don't be an animal
Use filler if you have to

>>1972034
>260c nozzle
I thought it was an all metal hot end?
>Bed max 60c
You're going to need 100c minimum

>>1972039
No, I mean that the firmware will not allow me to set the temperature above 260 celsius for the nozzle and 60 celsius for the bed

>>1972033
PLA would be good enough if you redesigned the legs to just be right angles(sorta like a T bracket) and beefed them up a bit. The easiest CAD program to learn if you're new would be fusion 360. Start a sketch, make the basic shape of the part, the extrude it to the right thickness. Don't forget to add radiuses to your sharp corners.

>>1972033
>Sketch side plane, extrude both directions, fillet
Not that complex.

>>1972033
>65" TV
honestly the safe bet is to just buy a VESA mount

>>1972018
>Is it realistically possible to print polycarbonate with a CR-10 Max?
Yes, of course.
>Will I have to upgrade the firmware?
Can you heat up the hotend to 260C-280C? Go into your settings, Temps and see if you can crank up the heat for the hotend. If not, let us know what the max is that it lets you.
>>1972034
>*By the way, I should clarify: the max nozzle temp is 260 degrees celsius, and the max bed temp is 60 degrees celsius. If I change the firmware to raise the maximum temperature, do I risk damaging the hardware? Additionally, I can't find any Marlin configs for a CR-10 Max :(
Oh, OK. So then the answer is that you def need to change the firmware.
No, you don't really risk damaging much. AMHE should not be affected at all.

Config is here:

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality
I'd use CR-10S config since it seems most similar.

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/import-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality/CR-10S/CrealityV1

You could also open an issue here:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/issues
and ask which config you should use. Most of these CR-10 configs are very similar with only different touch-screen/PID/temp changes.

>>1972043
thanks anon! will look into Fusion.
>>1972044
thanks anon! what's not obvious is that the part that screws into the TV is at an angle so the feet splay out a bit. not sure if that's critical or not.
I'm not sure how to get all the dimensions and angles right. don't have a machinist protractor but I do have calipers.
>>1972046
>honestly the safe bet is to just buy a VESA mount
thanks anon but it's facing a glass door. there's no wall behind it that I could mount it to.

>>1972033
Looks like the only critical thing is the hole sizes and spacing.
Use 2 strait edges.
Put one up against the mounting surface, and the other against the foot pads. Measure height to first hole, then distance to each foot.
Simplify modeling and printing by using rectangular shapes instead of round. Make them wider for strength.
You could make the bottom a solid triangle with a couple of feet. Get longer screws to make the mount thicker.
I use openScad, but it's not for everyone, and I'm not sure how it'd work for someone with no programming experience or that's not good with math

>>1972052
Take a picture of it head on and import that into fusion for the angles, similar to what I said in this post; >>1971993

I won't be exact but it'll definitely be closer than trying to measure by hand even with a protractor.

>>1972054
>>1972055
thanks so much anons!! will give this a go. I have to learn CAD basics first.

>>1972052
>there's no wall behind it that I could mount it to.
they make free standing VESA mounts

>>1972071
Just 3d print a ceiling hanging one. Have a floating terubi

>>1972093
>terubi
テレビ

Can you join PLA parts with a heat gun?

>>1972144
Using super glue would be faster and easier.

>>1972145
I don't have any glue on me but I do have a heat gun. I'd have to wait until tomorrow for the stores to open again.

>>1972145
>>1972146
but what's the best glue for PLA? CA?

What kinds of sandpaper do you guys like to use? The stuff I got degraded when I rubbed it against PETG. I'm wanting to smoothen this little shithead out.

Also, see that crease in the third panel? Do you guys ever use putty or clay or anything to fill in stuff like that prior to sanding?

>>1972161
I might as well have the decency to post the whole project.

Just some gifts for my nieces and nephews. I'm hoping to print some big Pokeballs for them to go in. I think proper presentation will be half the battle with making these presents kino.

>>1972167
Please be patient, I'm retarded.

>>1972161
I use a sanding sponge most of the time. I also picked up a set of cheap hand files.

>>1972181
I was using a sanding sponge that ended up crumbling apart. Does that not happen with you? A file sounds better.

>>1972187
I use it on PLA just fine. Haven't used one on PETG.

Why did nobody tell me PETG was like the best parts of PLA and the properties of ABS without cancer and warping?

>>1972190
Don't people generally use ASA instead of ABS, these days?

>>1972161
I get really decent results with 400 grit.

>>1972190
What are the benefits and downside exactly? I have a roll of green PETG downstairs but I haven't started printing functional parts yet so I haven't tried it.

>>1972195
Hi Anon, I'm the guy posting >>1972161

PETG seems harder to work with and a bit less forgiving settings-wise. My biggest difficulties are:

1. It is stronger. So sanding has been difficult and I'm having to work around that, but I don't think it'll be huge.

2. It has issues with adhesion, but I seem to be the only one without some magic solution. I've been temporarily keeping my bed between 70 and 90 C for the duration of my prints because they certainly pop off at lower temps. Huge waste of energy but I'm working on it.

It emits some odor, but it's pretty faint. I have the printer beside my bed and I don't notice it. I'm able to sleep and I don't get headaches or anything.

Which machine under 350€ would you advize to get?
I initially was looking at a sidewinder x1, but:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3hHqH0oDmI
Gave me cold feet.

>>1972199
Ender 3

>>1972199
are you new to 3DP? Plain old Ender 3.
then upgrade it from there and add things you want/need. it's the most popular printer and there's tons of aftermarket parts to pick & choose and you won't get locked into some ecosystem.

>>1972207
I'm indeed new at fdm, and still kind of new to 3d printing in general.
I wanted a printer at least 40cm tall able to print flexible filament as well as petg reliably.
A nice level of detail would be lovely.

>>1972207
>>1972200
ender3 v2 or pro?

>>1972226
I have a pro, but I'd probably just grab a V2 if I were buying it today.

>>1972214
I started off with Ender3 and got a glass bed, all metal hot end and a BLTouch clone. All for a lot less than any of these brand-name printers.
I also got a Raspberry Pi to run octoprint on it... again, something that these printers don't do out of the box. Once you try OctoPrint, there's no going back and you don't wanna use anything else anymore.
none of them can come even close to performance/dollar that you can do with this setup. my setup is also much faster than a brand-name like Prusa i3 Mk3s.
and the best part is that if you want to replace something, it's dirt cheap.
but, if you want something to print with out of the box and you don't want to learn how things work and don't want to ever work on your printer and just call support, then this is not the route to take. if you just wanna print and not do much thinkering with the machine itself, you can go with more expensive 3DP that offer a complete solution.

>>1972228
What is octoprint and why is it so great? I have a few extra pi's laying around so I could potentially mess with one on my CR10

>>1972228
>OctoPrint
Going to look into that.
I'm ready to tinker within reason. Not engineer level, but I do need to know why every part work and how.

>>1972232
>What is octoprint and why is it so great? I have a few extra pi's laying around so I could potentially mess with one on my CR10
that's a huge topic bro. you can watch some intro videos but it basically manages your printer. you can also use plugins to completely bypass the firmware on your Ender and do all the calculations on RasPi. you can turn something like an E3 into a $1000+ printer.
see this intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W99SqwfY8b4
>>1972236
>I'm ready to tinker within reason. Not engineer level, but I do need to know why every part work and how.
look, shit's gonna break. you will need to unclog nozzles, you will need to tram the bed, tighten the belts etc. phone support ain't gonna do that for you but they might guide you through it.
3D printers are not a turn-key ,achines (well, those under $5,000 are not anyway).
so why spend all the extra money on it?

I decided to print the leaves anyway since my local hardware store didn't have any cupric sheet metal and I didn't want to wait for delivery for a prototype.

It turned out pretty good. I printeall the leaves at once but one didn't come out right so I had to do a solo run, but surprisingly it doesn't look any different than the others. I expected a smoother finish since it had less time to cool between layers.

>>1972246

>>1972241
The still unsent sidewinder was just under 300€ on gearbest. (very likely to cancel after looking that review...)
What would you advize on the ender ecosystem for that price point?

>>1972241
I fear looking into octoprint and complicating things further, but it sounds potentially interesting. Will give the video a watch tomorrow and do some research

I am already curious if I want to get a better hot end, but the V2 is "mostly metal" with the tube going all the way to the nozzle, but has been fine so far printing PLA+, will have to test with PETG a bit

>>1972250
>What would you advize on the ender ecosystem for that price point?
Either original Ender 3 or Ender 3 v2.

>>1972251
>I fear looking into octoprint and complicating things further, but it sounds potentially interesting. Will give the video a watch tomorrow and do some research
start with this video on OctoPrint... the one I linked is too basic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=squjM1Lvf0k

>>1972246
>>1972249
that looks great!
are you building a medium format camera or something? that aperture would perform better in black filament... but this is great for a prototype.
how do you close/open it? is that a gear on the side poking out?

>>1972198

Original comment here.

I put my bed at 90C (glass top plate) with glue stick and I now have amazing adhesion. It's winter though sp the heating is nice. We're talking small thin pillars not popping off levels of adhesion. Once it cools to 60C it pops itself with barely any force. Great.

I tried 60C and lost so many big prints with rats nest explosions after loss of adhesion and shrinkage.

I print structural things (think custom shelf/bench hardware) so I don't need an easily cleaned part.

>>1972256
So you don't feel bad about keeping it at 90 C for the duration of a print? That's comforting to me, if that's the case, because I'm worried about my next electric bill. I don't expect it to be super outrageous though.

>>1972252
Just get the V2 the value the board, silent drivers, and the tensioners provide are alone worth the upcharge

>>1972257
Maintaining temp once it heats shouldn't be too awful. Glass in particular holds heat very well once its at temp

>>1972258
This is good advice. My office has some makerbots and such and the sound of them printing annoys the shit out of me. I've had multiple times walking by the makerspace where I think one of our servers in the room next door are on fire.

Got a CR10v2 and it doesn't really bother me at all. The cooling fans in the control unit are louder than the printer itself

>>1972257
If I am doing a stupid long print I'll actually put some slightly crumpled foil strips on the bed's empty spots after a cm or so of height. I insulate my bottoms with foil sheets to good effect but would probably use some real alumized board in the future.

>>1972257
It really isnt that much more to run a small build surface like that a few more degrees C, but you could consider a simple insulated chamber to save costs.

>>1972262
Oh yeah I had the same realization when I got some better drivers for my old ender 3, I then ended up replacing my fans with some nocturne fans, now my computer fan is louder...

>>1972255
I want to build what's described here >>1971377

This was just to test the design as downloaded but for the final build I'll at least double the scale to about a 5 inch aperture with brass or copper leaves. And yes, the gear controls the aperture.

Once I get leaves made I'll probably need to adjust the unit height as well because this design uses slightly oversized pins in th groove side and has a lot of spring in between the frame due to the nature of the leaf material.

>>1972263
>>1972260
>>1972265

Pretty good answers and they make sense too. Thanks for providing them.

Going back to my original side-question, do you guys have recommendations for a paste or putty that I can use to fill in split areas on my prints? That bulbasaur picture >>1972161
on the far right shows what I'm talking about: Very minor, so I'd apply X paste then sand over it.

Thanks guys, love this board.

>>1972266
interesting project! keep us posted... would love to see it in action.

What do you guys use to scan real life objects in to your modeling programs? I know Razer had a webcam that could scan objects but that came out a few years ago.

Noob here. How do I learn to make good supports, or is it just a matter of experience/trial and error? I'm kinda fed up with just letting Cura handle them automagically since I feel it always adds too much. I've snapped some fragile prints in half trying to remove the crap Cura added in places where I can't really imagine it being necessary, especially when comparing it to files I downloaded that already included supports.

>>1972289
Do you mean making them part of the 3D model or just tweaking the settings in Cura?
There are multiple different patterns to choose from and lots of settings to change. If you feel the amount is wasteful, start by tweaking the overhang angle. I set mine at 60 degrees and I could probably go as far as 75 or so if I really wanted to.

>>1972286
photogrammetry works well (too many programs and methods to list)
raspi based laser scanner that's 3d printable http://www.freelss.org
or you could just use iPhone or iPad with a built-in LIDAR scanner.

it all depends on the size of your object and resolution needs.

>>1972291
I mostly mean making them myself as part of the model. I think I'd feel better when I have full control over them, rather than relying on the computer to do its thing.

>>1971842
How do you attach those mesh screens to the frame? DId you trap it between the bottom and top frame?

>>1971973
its a e3p with the 1.1.5. board and a pancake stepper, ran fine for months. the printer keeps going in x/y/z, only thing that fails is the extruder stepper.
guess my next step is measuring if the connector and swapping the motor from another axis
>>1972270
I got some simple wood filler and wanted to try it on that big calicat, apparently that's what's most people are using, you gave to paint it tho. plan b would be a 3d pen and fill it with the same filament on the print
>>1972170
are you using cura and a low-end board? try increasing the maximum divination and tolerances, that should get rid of the blobs and zits on curvatures

>>1971842
Perhaps put the mesh in between layers.
Pause, hit with iron, rehome, resume.
Similar to fabric techniques

>>1970552
looks cool good job

My black friday order finally shipped out. Can't wait to try the new hotend + dd extruder combo

ATTENTION
ATTENTION
YOU ARE BEING VISITED BY THE BASED PENGUIN
GOOD FORTUNE WILL COME TO YOU THROUGHOUT 2021
BUT ONLY IF YOU RESPOND
"THANK YOU BASED PENGUIN"

Anyone got recommendations for adjusting the center of gravity for their figures to make them more balanced? I'm considering drilling a hole and filling it with heavy material but would prefer something less invasive if it exists.

>>1972346
Why does it have so many zits? Can't you do your settings right?

>>1972249
Light bleedthrough will be an issue if you use it for film

>>1972345
whoa, are you me? I ordered the same thing (- belt). I also ordered a 3D Touch tho

>>1972346
I wish there were some good anime figures to print...
>>1972361
don't be so rude. it looks decent.

why would something like this happen? It's an Anycubic I3 Mega.

>>1972346
thank you based penguin, you should've been printed slower or with bigger tolerances
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hvw3DrVAeTA

Someone used petg plastic Devil Design? Polish manufacturer, sort of.
I'm new to 3D printing skills, and this is the plastic I got in the same store with no particular alternatives to my Ender 3 Pro.

>Creality/Naomi Wu drama jumped from Kickstarter to Reddit
>people getting banned from the Creality subreddit for talking about it
>Naomi and her simps arrive to claim that any criticism of Creality's products is a racist/sexist attack on Naomi herself
popcorn.gif

>>1972320
I used to stop the print, now i split the gcode in half. I print the bottom bit, place mesh on the print and push the mesh into the print slightly with a soldering iron at around 400C. The mesh is almost in level with the print after this. Then run the gcode for the top bit making sure to avoid collisions. I print the first 2 layers really slow to even out bumps and get good adhesion.

>>1972342
Thats what im doing now. with a .1-.2 mm wire mesh its okay. Not with a 1mm wire mesh.

>>1972370
>3D Touch
I haven't had any leveling issues since I got a linear rail Y-axis kit. I really hated trying to get under the carriage to adjust that eccentric nut. Definitely worth the investment, although I wish I got it off ali since it's cheaper. Might pick up the linear Z axis kit later on.

>>1972386
>I used to stop the print, now i split the gcode in half. I print the bottom bit, place mesh on the print and push the mesh into the print slightly with a soldering iron at around 400C. The mesh is almost in level with the print after this. Then run the gcode for the top bit making sure to avoid collisions. I print the first 2 layers really slow to even out bumps and get good adhesion.
fascinating! never heard of this method before. very cool indeed!

>>1972385
time to abandon that shit company.
fuck'em

>>1972384
try it. how bad can it be??? I'm yet to come across a really shitty filament. I buy the cheapest of the cheap shit on amazon that has lots of neg reviews and reviews of "worst filament I ever tried" and I have zero issues.
unless it's really humid, it should print well after you tune it.
people buy filaments and never tune shit and claim how it's bad.

>>1972373
tinned wires :\ chinks don't give a fuck about proper safety.
that shit can burn your house down.
if you have a chnkshit printer, cut off tinned portion of wires before inserting them into the terminal block.

>>1972373
>Anycubic I3 Mega
btw, did this happen to you? how long ago? you're lucky you caught it on time.... that shit has killed people.

>>1972393
>muh tinned wires guise

>>1972393
>>1972397
The ends of stranded wire need to be crimped with ferrules, not bare or tinned, for screw terminals

>>1972400
I know that but Mr armchair electrician here knows jack shit about proper connections.

>>1972410
stay retarded kid. try not to burn down the hole you live in.

>>1971970
adding to my long list of earlier mistakes i found the problem: the linear advance was set which doesnt really work with tmc2208-standalone
i disabled it in both cura and marlin, now it prints perfectly fine again
>>1972373
did you short something or did it occur on its own?
>>1972351
you can add custom printing parameters e.g. 100% infill in the lower parts for the figurine, that should help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su_m5zV9rvA

>>1972400
this is correct

im not one for shitty personal stories but i just wanted to share a thank you. this thread helped me come out of a depression and i recently got an offer to teach about printing to beginners.
i wouldnt have made it without you

>>1972449
Neat.

>>1972449
cool now reward yourself with a dragon dildo ride

I converter my Ender 3 to direct drive, but my nozzle moved 2cm forward now, and doesn't home in the center anymore because of this. What firmware setting do i have to change in Marlin? Y_MIN_POS?

>>1972474
move the endstop at the back by hand

>>1972385
>Year of our Lord 2020
>Using a 3d printer with rollers on tracks
Notice how everyone having stupid problems with prints are all using creality chinky chinky poopoo printers with rollers. Any proper printer should be driven on slides or screws exclusively.

>>1972346
Only 3 weeks left in the year. Fuck you penguin.

New Thread
>>1972510

>>1971620
>Don't use the filament change one as it just performs the filament loading/unloading moves without actually stopping and waiting for you to change the filament
Works on my printer. What do you have? I have an Ender 3.

>>1972187
>>1972181
Another anon here; I have considered files too but I'm wary about them clogging. What cares should one take when filing plastics, or at least PLA/PETG? Is wiping the file with a rag after use good enough?

>>1972458
give me a mold to print

>>1972522
I dont think you can clog a file with pla or petg just by hand filing. Atleast i havent. A quick wipe with you hand is enough to clear it. If you somehow do clog it, a file card is cheap enough to buy.

>>1972361
Zits haven't been a big deal for me because I can just sand and paint. But I admit that not having them would be nice. I'd rather keep my printer at the same speed or higher and sand them off than make it go any slower.

>>1972346
thank you based penguin.


Please improve my life.

Random question:
If I wanted to 3d-print solarpanels on production level, would I be able to compete with the Chinese in southern Africa?

Absolutely no idea how 3d-printing works, asking out of curiosity to understand and learn.

>>1972761
>would I be able to compete with the Chinese
No one can compete with those bugmen

>>1972761
>3d-print solarpanels
wtf?

I'm going to be 3D printing automotive logos, so I need a material that retains at least decent strength and retains colors very well after years and years of moderate UV exposure, ie. being outdoors but in northern Europe where there isn't that much UV light.
Is ASA my best option? I'll also be applying an UV resistant clear coat if that is of any help.

Also, any recommendations on where I should buy this ASA filament in Northern Europe/Europe in general?

>>1973235
Not him, but there's a kind of solar panel where you use much smaller but more efficient photovoltaic cells, but use large mirrors around it to funnel light into it. IIRC, those are mostly used in satellites, though.

>>1973240
Honestly, you could get away with pretty much any of them if you apply some sort of protective coat on the outside.

>>1972246
>>1972249
you designed this? it came out great

>>1973240
>Is ASA my best option? I'll also be applying an UV resistant clear coat if that is of any help.
Yes, ASA is your best option. Not only because of UV resistance but also heat and cold resistance. Even if you live up North, Summer temps can get pretty high and especially on dark-colored paint cars. You don't want your logos to melt and fall off during a sunny day, do you?

is this a good deal? it seems suspiciously cheap for what it is. is it going to give me cancer or something?

I ordered babby's first printer
Is there any reason not to keep it in my garage that dips down to around freezing? I really don't have a great place inside the house to keep it

>>1973716
It's used and the things are pretty cheap new, so I'm not too surprised

>>1973749
SLA or FDM?

>>1973751
fdm

>>1973753
You're fine if you have a heated bed and don't try to make anything too big. If you have problems you'll probably need an enclosure though, or at least something to stop the drafts

Got a Ender 3 V2 on black friday, how do I turn it into a workhorse? I know that's probably too tricky; so instead - how do I get it to be more reliable?
1. Suggest upgrades for a stock Ender 3v2, anons. BLTouch is already on the list.
2. Is ABS/ASA/PETG worth exploring? I feel like PLA is amazing for me for the aesthetics I want from my prints, but it's not weatherproof. PETG is the next step up, and that would require an all-metal hotend/direct drive extrusion but then I would have to change nozzles for printing PLA or risk clogs. Is it worth the hassle?