/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1972510
asking again since no one answered in the last thread

Does anyone know of a decent rainbow filament? Preferably in PETG but PLA/PLA+ would also work. There are a bunch of amazon but they all color shift way too slowly for anything but huge prints. I am looking for something that shifts color every 5-10 grams ideally rather than the 50-100 that everything seems to have.
Also, are there any decent glow in the dark PETG filaments? I see a ton of PLA ones but the only PETG one I could find had terrible reviews.

>>1971620
>Don't use the filament change one as it just performs the filament loading/unloading moves without actually stopping and waiting for you to change the filament
Works on my printer. What do you have? I have an Ender 3.

>>1972187
>>1972181
>using files to smoothe prints
Another anon here; I have considered files too but I'm wary about them clogging. What cares should one take when filing plastics, or at least PLA/PETG? Is wiping the file with a rag after use good enough?

>>1972505
>Notice how everyone having stupid problems with prints are all using creality chinky chinky poopoo printers with rollers.
Learn to statistics, anon. Almost everyone here is using roller printers, specially noobs (myself included), so it's natural that most people with problems have roller printers. It's like saying "notice how all smokers have two eyes". Now of course, linear rails are better, and are a very welcome upgrade on an Ender 3, but the great majority of the time the problems lie on slicer settings or between the printer and the chair, like that poor anon printing ABS thinking it was PETG. Problems with the rollers themselves, even if they do happen, amount to a very small fraction of the problems seen here. It's perfectly fine to get chink shit and dechinkify it part by part.
>but i don't wanna!
This is a Tuvalese ocarinacarving agora, not the Stratasys support chat.

>>1972525
Ender 3 Pro.
I was watching when it happened and it didn't pause for me to change it, perhaps it's intended to be used with a filament changer.

What causes a particular filament to cause this small x shifts? Same gcode prints fine in other colors, is it over extrusion? Esteps are calibrated and I ran a flow calibration print with this gray filament (which had me lower it to 92%) but nothing really changed. Sliced with cura 4.8 btw. I'll test the same model in prusaslicer later and see if it changes anything.

>>1972533
Most curious. It works on my regular nonpro E3 with no firmware upgrades, octopi, or anything.

>>1972537
Congrats anon, it looks gorgeous!

>>1972510
hey anyone know sauce on that kirby model?

>>1972537
Sweet.

Does it close all the way?

>>1972545
no, any iris with this leaf style can't close fully but thinner leaves can help it get smaller. I don't want to strain that one since I didn't have glue to secure some of the pins so they're only stuck on with tape for now and the shear forces get a bit too much at the edges of the movement.

>>1972543
thanks mate

>>1972544
I actually paid for it, albeit during a sale so it was like $4. Could probably find other kirby models for free if you looked around though.

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/sword-kirby

It's worth noting the hat is weirdly poly. Not sure if its the model or just the way it shook out printing, but with the copper filament you can really see the triangle pattern at certain angles

>>1972551
>paying for an asset rip
is that even legal to sell?

>>1972556
It's pretty debatable. You'd be surprised how much stuff you can find for random models. At least the paid models tend to be higher quality and have better poses or part separation designed in. If you look on the free sites its not uncommon to see 8+ of the same basic model pose with subpar rendering.

>>1972534
i sometimes gave those on walls that have holes in them, have yet to find a way to reliably fix it besides lowering acceleration and tightening belts

Where do you guys buy screws? I'm building a prop kit and need to pick up different types and sizes.

guys I got a CR10 that got all kinds of fucked up thanks to a little kid and youtube trying to fix a clog. he literally took the entire thing apart. even took out the hot glue they used on the board to keep the wires plugged in.

I managed to plug enough together to get it to light up, and it looks like its a V1 without a flashed bootloader. can I flash it using a pi zero w? how?

what is the defacto direct drive that will work on it? I'm cool with /csg/ sites. I want to get this thing working again. is there a pastebin for CR10 specific stuff? will ender 3 stuff work?

guys what do you use to paint your prints?

I'm currently printing a 11h+ PLA figure in all-white and I really wanted to paint it, not sure what I should use though.

what are the chances that printed dice would be true-rolling?

>>1972572
I get mine down in the screw shop

>>1972600
not much, maybe SLA printed ones are better somewhat

>>1972525
see
>>1972569

>>1972589
>installing bootloader on an ender with only a raspberry pi

This post deals with an Ender 3 but it should translate well enough:
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11338/flashing-a-bootloader-on-ender-3-without-arduino#answer-11347
See the second answer:
>You can do AVR programming using USB-TTL adapters. This relies on bit-banging, i.e. emulating the programming protocol by using the serial control lines as general purpose IO.
>But this has a few caveats:
>>USB-TTL adapters limit the speed of control line changes. So the programming will be very slow, taking several minutes.
>>You need to have the RTS, DTR and CTS lines available on the USB-TTL adapter. Many of the cheap adapters do not have these signals available on pins, though you could solder to the chip directly.
>If those two are in order, go ahead and install avrdude[1], take one of the serial port bitbang (serbb driver) example files and configure it with information on which serial adapter pins you've connected to the AVR chip. Then give -i 1000 or similar delay value to avrdude to slow it down enough to work over the USB interface.
>There is a blog post about doing it with PL2303 based adapter[2], but the technique should work on other USB-TTL adapters also.

[1]: https://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/
[2]: http://nerdralph.blogspot.com/2014/05/pl-2303hx-bit-bang-avr-programmer.html

>>1972606
Thanks!

>>1972589
A CR10 is essentially a bigger ender3, I think everything is the same with longer extrusions and bigger bed. If you get it to work you can print a direct drive bracket without having to buy anything.
Afaik you need an arduino to unlock the bootloader and then you can flash it just connecting to a computer via usb.

>>1972600
ZERO
any 3D printed die would have biases.
casino dies are made from a solid block of acrylic. pips are drilled and then filled with the material of same density. new ones are even laser ablated on a testing machine to make them fair.
anyway, don't use 3D printed shit for gambling.

What's the minimum outside wall speed you guys use? I printed a mini at 20m/s and I'm wondering if I should lower it to 10m/s. PLA, not sure it iwll make a difference. Also getting weird underextrusion after switching from Monoprice clear PLA to hatchbox gray pla, so I might be due for a nozzle change.

>>1972631
>anyway, don't use 3D printed shit for gambling.
I'm just wondering if it's good enough for D&D

>>1972640
if there's no money involved, sure.
if you care about fairness or want to see how well it performs, throw it for at least 200 times and record probabilities. if it's within 1-5%, it should be perfectly fine for gameplay.

>>1972639
>metres per second
Going down from twenty metres per second to ten metres per second wouldn't help too much unless you have some industrial behemoth. Try around fifteen *milli*metres per second instead.

>>1972551
pretty sure thats just because of the orientation that you printed it in. check your settings for upper layer ironing and it might smooth that out

>>1972648
Is ironing worth doing? I haven't tried it yet, but it would probably help alot for figures and such depending on orientation. Printing them in filament instead of resin creates some issues with lower infills and optimal printing angle to reduce noticeable lining

>>1972649
>Is ironing worth doing
No. It can leave a nasty finish and it can clog your nozzle.

>>1972648
Also in case it isn't clear, I am not talking the obvious layer lines and shapes up top. But the hat itself has noticeable triangles all over in every direction that catch light.

Bit more noticeable in this pic.

Not sure if there is an anti-aliasing setting in Cura like I usually use for resin prints, or if it would even make much difference. I imagine its more so just the model itself isn't very smoothed

>>1972654
I fear a global antialiasing would get rid of the eyes and sword details. Have you considered sculpting a new hat on Blender?

>>1972626
>>1972608
thank you guys. I'm going to take a look at it this weekend and try to get it going.

so I should just get an arduino then? I got a box of the jumper wires to connect it. I would like to octoprint it later on. should I get a pi4 then?

>>1972662
Its a possibility, but it doesn't really bother me very much. It's just super noticeable with the metallic filament. If I print a large one for painting a paint of sanding and filler primer will probably smooth it out

>>1972665
Sanding paper and pain't make me the printer I ain't

>>1972664
First check if your printer has one of the newer mainboards with the bootloader already unlocked, you shouldn't need an arduino then. Open it up and check the version number printed on it and google around.

>tfw installing a new nozzle and it clicks, threads broken off in heater core.

fuck me.

>>1972572
Amazon. Cheap, plentiful, good enough.

>>1972679

>>1972688
Flathead screwdriver sideways, hammer, carefully tappity tap tap it out.
Has anybody had any luck with screw extractors?

>>1972702
I managed to get it out with a pliers after loosening it with a tiny tiny spiral bit extractor.
90% of the time screw extractors suck but for the extra 10% they are literally the only thing that will work. Like right now, considering they cost 20 bucks for every size you'll ever need I highly recommend them.

>>1972679
>>1972688
done it myself a few times.
hammer in one of these, and just unscrew it.
works every time.

working on a solder fan, going to use some carbon cotton as a filter, give it a solid frame and base and use a 5.5mm dc jack to power it

Spamanon here. I've been doing some light PETG printing on my Ender 3 with the Hero Mini duct[1], with no significant complaints so far. Is the Satsana duct[2] an upgrade over it? How much of an improvement should I expect with a Hero Me?[3]
[1]: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
[2]: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859
[3]: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970

is this all good material? I've only used the PLA included with my printer until now.

>>1972756
If you're not changing out the fan, you will see no real difference aside from cosmetic.

>>1972778
Thanks for your guidance anon
>cries in arsefucked import process

>>1972766
the metallic looking filaments are alright but honestly you'll get a better finish if you sand/smooth your print and then just spray them with metallic rustoleum.

>>1972766
Metallic looking filaments clog like a motherfucker
Go for regular colored, transparent, matte or silky but regular color pigmented, none of that metallic crap

>>1972704
Easy outs are the devil's tools. 99% of the time they offer false hope and put you in a worse position than what you started at.

>>1972751
designed the upper part, need to plan out cabling before I do the base it slots into. Designed all the parts so they print easily with no supports and either slot into each other easily or screw together with the fan

Hello

I got myself an artillery genius and I've been trying printing medical imaging models

this is a model of a spine I made a while ago,
then I made a 10 cm one of the same model

>>1972892
Nice

>>1972778
>stops crying
Which fans would you recommend as something sensible? Maybe I can make do or find something around.

>>1972537
aperture science laboratories

>>1972631
or do use it for gambling. just saying

Well the thing is I've been asked to print this corset and I'm kinda lost because it requires lots of support, I told them to redo the design but they are not convinced

I asked them to do it myself and will try to make it a less random design, could I get any suggestions please?

What's /3DPG/'s experience with annealed plastics? I heard that annealed PLA could be as strong or stronger than ABS at room temperature, at the price of mild print deformation.

>>1972942
>meshmixer
why are you not using cura

>>1972898
thanks
this is the 10 cm one

>>1972948
I was trying to fix the stl

>>1972952
oh yeah, cura sucks with that. you get a pass

>>1972951
scoliosis?

>>1972957
yeah
due a hemivertebra

>>1972940
We do what we must because we can.

>>1972942
that could be printed on a FFF machine but it needs lots of supports.

>>1972946
The plaster/salt curing techniques are promising, but still underdeveloped.

>>1972951
How did you print it? On the side with supports?

>>1972971
yes
this is how it came out

>>1972970
>plaster/salt
Never heard of that, but sounds cool. I was thinking more about the heat treated method, where the part is heated to somewhere between glass transition and melting (different for every filament) and then allowed to cool slowly, crystallizing the plastic.

I'll see what I can dig up on the plaster/salt method. That might work a bit better for me because I have a gas oven, which is supposed to make annealing harder for some reason.

>>1972980
Plaster/salt basically do the same thing, but offer more support around the part.
You could hypothetically use sand or whatever. The main issue with the plaster is the water content. I expect giving the print a hydrophobic layer on all surfaces can eliminate most of the issues.

>>1972977
very nice!

>>1972550

what if you like, deleted the tip of every other leaf?

>>1972985
Just looked up salt annealing, holy SHIT that looks fucking awesome. I just got some PETG filament for my birthday, I'll have to fuck around with that a little and see what I can make

>>1972992
>awesome
but it looks like total shit.

>>1972999
can't deny the mechanical properties

>>1973010
but I can just print it in nylon or some better material, anon, and it will be a lot stronger.

>>1973017
Nta, but the point of salt annealing is to get improved mechanical properties without having to shell out three times as much for harder to print filament.

what sites have the coolest models both for both decoration and actual useful stuff (like storage for example)? I saw shit like like (https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/diplodocus-skull)) that seems really cool since most models out there a pretty meh. is there a site with mostly high quality stuff like this (that is actually printable like these)?

>>1973047
If it's a website that lets people post their models, the majority of the models are going to be crap or at least need some fixing.

>>1973047
Just go on thingiverse and sort by most popular / highest rated or whatever.

>>1973054
>>1973049
I guess, for the useful stuff there is a decent amount. but for decorative stuff like that fossil, which can almost be high art level, it seems hard to find stuff of that quality. most of it is shit like groot or star wars stuff.

>>1973056
Tell me about it. All the busts on that site are gay pop culture shit like darth vader. I just want a decent bust of hitler. Is it too much to ask?

>>1972988
there are some leaf designs that have a notch in the middle to allow tighter closure but I'll be making the final one out of 30 awg sheet brass which is something like 1/3 the thickness of printed leaves, and at a larger scale so the angle of the leaf at the center is shallower too. It should close pretty small.

>>1972940
time for the big one

The screw holes are massive though so I might see if I can print some decorative ones instead of using steel. And again the leaf is just for refrence when I cut out the bass.

>>1973047
If you don't mind paying cgtrader is another option where people actually put effort into their designs. There is some cool shit like scifi tank part sets where you can design and build your own stuff.

The prices are set by the artist though and vary wildly. Some stuff will be a few bucks and reasonable, meanwhile something like a wearable gundam helmet is somehow 45-50 bucks for a bunch of simple polygons

>>1973059
>cgtrader
thanks seems pretty good
>>1973057
here ya go https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/adolf-hitler-5f164ece-af5f-4166-9f98-896f505dc7ab

>>1972510
I figured there would be some overlap here so sorry If I'm wrong, but I'm using inkscape to map out a vector image to cut with my k40.

In inkscape I set the stroke paint of the outline to blue for the engraving cut, and set the fill to black to raster fill, but when I upload the fille to k40 wisperer the blue outlines and the black fill are all offset.

What am I doing wrong?

>>1972980
>remelting petg and pla in salt
https://youtu.be/DyAKtS1b3SQ
TLDR:
Shit level finish
God level stronk

>>1973075
I'm surprised this didn't occur to me. I worked in a rubber extrusion plant one summer and they cured the play-doh like raw rubber/silicon/etc in molten salt to make it hard. On break we'd make little baubles out of scrap raw rubber and dunk them in the salt with a frying cage.

>>1973074
Whisperer is chinkshit, and unfortunately you'll have to deal with it. In this case, it looks like you'll have to manually offset the layers or elements in Inkscape before exporting, to correct for Chingchong's fuckup.

>What am I doing wrong?
Trusting Chang.

>>1973075
salt isn't even real

>>1973078
Sounds fun! Do you happen to have any pics around?

>>1973081
>salt isn't even real
Please elaborate? Is it a meme or are you unsatisfied with Stefan's approximation of flour salt?

>>1973082
nah that was at least a decade ago, I'm not sure where the stuff went.

>>1973085
>I'm not sure where the stuff went
D-did it go up your butt?

>>1973087
no

>>1973091
Worse than your butt!?

>>1973092
no

>>1973097
Of course you'd think that, you sicko

>>1973040
>having to shell out three times as much for harder to print filament.
your prints look like shit afterwards, aren't as strong as stronger materials and you don't have to waste your life away grinding the salt and dealing with postprocessing.
>>1973075
that salt shit is a big fucking meme that no one ever does except for making YT money.
also, way too brittle afterwards.

>>1973103
It's a brand new process. It'll get refined and we'll likely see better surface finishes.

>>1973107
>It'll get refined and we'll likely see better surface finishes.
it won't.

>>1972942
Print it horizontally and bend it around a 3D printed form with heat. Much more robust.

>>1972386
Hmmm, seeing as its wire, try hammering the edges so that the wires are flatter where it meets the plastic.

Variable layer height where the plastic goes over the mesh.

Last idea i have is, dont worry about the absolute geometry of the mesh, but add a bit of gap so that the layer resumes over the mesh higher up, rather then the next immediate layer.

>>1972951
That is really nice, what do you use it for?
I imagine you'd be the coolest doc in town if you handed those out to patients
>>1973144
I second that, print it flat and then put it in an oven/ dip it in hot water

Whoops posted in the last thread

I'm going to be 3D printing automotive logos, so I need a material that retains at least decent strength and retains colors very well after years and years of moderate UV exposure, ie. being outdoors but in northern Europe where there isn't that much UV light.
Is ASA my best option? I'll also be applying an UV resistant clear coat if that is of any help.

Also, any recommendations on where I should buy this ASA filament in Northern Europe/Europe in general?

>>1973245
Really? Can a thin clear coat really work that well? What about longevity, will such a coat really last that long? Because if that is all that is needed I'm going with PLA

>>1973248
Best option is to plate it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PnlZ4MTfCk

>>1973250
It is a multi color part + I'm not going for a glossy finish

>>1972923
If you're just printing PLA, the stock fan should do fine, honestly. Like there will be some improvement from switching to a 5015 blower, but it won't be huge. The biggest benefit is being able to run a bigger fan slower for a bit less noise. If you do change it make sure you get the right voltage for your printer.

There are louder fans that I would work on before that anyway, though.

Tried printing a pot for the cactus that i want to give my gf for christmas.
Are you guys using your printers for gifts?

>>1973319
I received a 3d printed gift, and it felt really fucking cheap and shitty. Like you put no effort into it.

>>1973319
>>1973331
Depending on what it is and how useful it is a plain 3d printed gift seems sorta lazy. If you actually finish and paint it though thats a different story. Difference between a cheap piece of plastic and a work of art is a bit of effort shading and making it look decent

>>1973331
I agree with >>1973334. I will applay a layer of primer and lacker to the printed pot to get a nice finish. Plus the actual gift is the cactus and not the pot.

>>1973319
>Are you guys using your printers for gifts?
i have and i felt kinda cheap, mostly because i was also poor as fuck at the time
its the usual man, its the thought that count and if you know someone would enjoy what you want to give to them, just do it

I'm making my sister a thing to cover her shower drain to trap the sewer air. These have a name I don't remember, but she had trouble finding one.
How do I keep water and microbes out of PLA pores? I'm thinking of covering it in something like shellac or a lacquer. Maybe a resin cover or just cast the whole thing, but that seems expensive.
I'd like something cheap and long-lasting.

>>1973319
A tad small innit?
I printed several low poly pokemons for gf when I had one and a couple heart boxes I designed myself. But not as a main gift, just small gifts I gave her when I visited.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3488853

redpill me on acetone vapor for a shiny finish

>>1973319
I made a 3d printed birthday present last month, even tho the development was the real gift and it just happened to be printed. also I sometimes print decoration which technically are gifts too but I don't count them. Pic related, a Christmas tree of sorts
>>1973425
print like a dozen of them and throw them out if needed if you don't want to coat them
>>1973477
doesn't that only work on abs? so you get fumes from printing plus fumes from acetone treatment

>>1973319
>Are you guys using your printers for gifts?
Yeah I'm making some dumb christmas lights at the moment.

I'm printing a bunch of low-poly christmas trees with transparent PLA in vase mode. I've already got a bunch of nice bases that I need to wire and put green LED inside, then the tree goes on top and presto, shitty holiday decorations for everyone!

>>1973319
I'm planning to print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2136071
for my gf who likes Harry Potter with a jewelry piece inside I'm also going to make. Something like pic but a bracelet probably.

>>1973492
My coomer brain recognizes that one

>>1973493
Kek but that sounds kinda sweet desu

>>1973427
I am already printing a bigger one. Lets hope your gf didnt leave you because of your prints and mine won't eithter.

>>1973493
Seconding for cute trees. I have some transparent PETG, I think I'll steal the idea.
>>1973319
>Are you guys using your printers for gifts?
Smol functional bullshit like under-cabinet hooks and guitar picks and flowerpots,

why aren't polar coordinate printers more popular?

>>1973567
Cantilever on a pivot is just asking for trouble

>>1973567

Because there's literally no advantage to them, other than a potential reduction in price. Which isn't even really worth it, considering how cheap low-end printers are now.

>>1973567
I wonder how well they do with straight walled parts.

I've already noticed cura doesn't make perfect circles at a certain goldilocks zone. instead it breaks it up into points that are visible to the naked eye. can't imagine the weird artifacting that would happen on a straight wall with this style printer.

>>1973580
>what are thrust bearings

>>1973080
>>1973074
came out decent at least, just used scrap wood so the grain fucks it all up but just testin

>>1973612
You can bolt it in place for all I care, a flapping cantilever will flap. It's fun for prototyping small stuff, but if you want any real usability you will want at least a gantry.

>>1973607
Doubt that's cura doing it, rather its your printers stepper drivers or the resolution you exported the STL with

Having 2 issues on ender pro 3
>Nothing coming out of nozzle unless I manually push the filament in further
>First layer or two goes fine but after that the nozzle gets too high up (Z) that it's not even on or near the bed anymore

>>1973671
Sorry for the picture being upside down, I'm also kinda retarded

Spananon here. Rejoice my brethren, for I am doing my first production run. Sure, this model could maybe be better done with an injection mold, but it is a relatively smol batch and it's something nice for the portfolio.

posted in the wrong thread like an idiot. Why is this so cheap anon? I don't think i could get the frame alone for this price. let alone the whole printer. is this going to burn my house down or something?

>>1973739
Maybe the owner is cash-strapped and needs the money NOW or the firware died. In either case, if it's less expensive than the frame alone, by all means buy it and keep an eye on it. At the very least you can keep the mechanics and electrics, and only change the electronics for like USD100 more.

>>1973739
Buy it and you will surely find out. Report back.

Trying to print this d30 (RhombicTriacontahedron) but I keep losing adhesion at about a quarter inch of height even with a brim.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4145859

CR-10 V2, 0.12mm, 200C PLA, 60C bed, 100% fill, 50 mm/sec

Are there any settings I can tweak to maintain adhesion through the whole print or is a raft my only option?

>>1973319
Not at the moment, but I made personalized coasters for my dad's family over the summer.

>>1973760
Try pumping your nozzle up to 210 and using a brim

>>1973763
Why the higher temp? Less "grab" on the part as it deposits or what? With the small size of the part and 100% infill I was worried about core temp staying too high and possibly warping.

>>1973767
>Why the higher temp?
Better adhesion between the new and old layers.

>>1973770
I'm talking about adhesion to the bed.

>>1973760
Post a pic of the sliced dice.

>>1973772
Ooh, sorry there. But the temp recommendation still stands.
Also, try printing the first layer waaaay slower, like 10mm/s.

>>1973773
>>1973775
okay, that sounds reasonable. Is there an easy setting in Cura for speed at each layer or do I need to adjust it manually?

>>1973780
Sick dreidel you got there bro. Just in time for hanukkah.

>>1973780
There are separate print settings for this case, look for those prefixed with "initial layer".
THESE ARE MY SETTINGS FOR A PETG PRINT ON MY PRINTER. DON'T USE THEM FOR PLA. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

That disclaimer aside, it's mostly the same save for the temperature for PLA at 210 (for the whole print).

>>1973780
I think the problem is that the base is too small for what you're trying to print.
You can enable supports on the faces adjacent to the 11 and print with a brim, this should give you the surface area you need.
Also
>ask for pic of the sliced object
>anon posts failed print instead
Goddammit anon, at least learn the terms or half of the shit you read here will go over your head.
Well, I made do with it anyways, but do learn for next time.

>>1973784
this good?

I think the problem is that the base is too small for what you're trying to print.

obviously yeah, that's why I tried a brim.

>You can enable supports on the faces adjacent to the 11 and print with a brim, this should give you the surface area you need.
I wanted to avoid supports for post-processing ease but I;m going to have to touch up all the numbers anyway so I might as well.

>Also
>ask for pic of the sliced object
>anon posts failed print instead
>Goddammit anon, at least learn the terms or half of the shit you read here will go over your head.
Sorry, I read it as "the slice of the dice"

>>1973800
fug

>>1973800
>>1973802

>>1973806
Looks like it could work imho. If it warps or detaches further up, keep 210 only for the initial temp and use 200 for the rest as you already have.

>>1973807
one big concern I have with 210 throughout is for the overhangs on the numbers.

>>1973812
Then use it just for initial layer temperature and keep the rest as-is for now

>>1973815
Is it possible to do walls at 190 and infill at 210?

What is your favourite epoxy for pouring into 3dp molds? Is the WalMart two part good?

>>1973816
No. Just keep 210 for initial for now and report back. Don't try to change too many settings at once between iterations, or you won't know what in particular helped.

>>1973823
Alright, I'll check back in tomorrow. I'm in the middle of a 4 hour print but figured I'd ask in the mean time.

>>1973829
Sure thing anon! What are you printing? Pics?

>>1973841
Rainbow Dragon Dildo.
Will post after testing

>>1973842
>Dragon Dildo
Please link model, I want to make some as keychains as gag gifts

>>1973841
another piece for the upscaled iris aperture

Pic is a screenshot of my PC which is mirroring my old phone via scrcpy to monitor the print. Very handy.

>>1973842
>PLA dragon dildo in 4 hours
sounds like a great way to shred your anus

>>1973845
I want it too. Not as a gag though.

>>1973850
It's for a gag gift because it's for oral use

>change from .4 to .2 nozzle
>nothing sticks to the print bed

I've tried blue tape, hairspray, and clean buildtak. My PLA just won't stick anymore. I never had issues with this before, but all of a sudden once I swapped to a .2 nozzle nothing will stick to the bed. It prints about one layer, and then it comes loose.

What might fix this? Should I go to the hassle of re-leveling my bed, or is there a simpler option?

>>1973857
Try a slow and hot/hot first layer. 10mm/s, 210/60. Maybe even crank it to 215/65.

>>1973865
Thanks. I tried a 215/60 already, I guess I'll turn down the print speed too.

>>1973868
Keep us posted anon. I love you.

>>1973876
>I love you.

>>1973876
i love (You) too

>>1973877
Love þine neighbour, Father

>>1973879
did you seriously just use a thorn

Rip Chuck Yeager. I did a school project on you way back when.

>>1973883
3d print Chuck

>>1973880
Yes.

>>1973883
How did the underside turn out? Do you have any tips for printing on supports?

>>1973885
I don't have an stl
>>1973887
Printed fine with friend. Print with nose going up and the supports will be more than enough. It just needed a bit of sanding in the wings because it wasn't a smooth blade.
Here's my attempt to demonstrate how the supports worked.

>>1973889
*My friend
Here's the underside.

>>1973889
>I don't have an stl
I don't care. Throw all of his pictures into meshroom and print whatever comes out

>>1973671
So I'm thinking the issue here may be a loose brass part that just needs tightened? Hopefully this fixing the Z axis being so high with nothing coming out.

What is the difference between premium and regular and outdoor/indoor/art plaster?

>>1973890
>>1973889
>>1973883
It's beautiful

>>1973671
your nozzle's protruding way too much. too loose? preheat it to 185C and let it sit there for few minutes and then tighten it. don't try doing it when it's cold...

>>1973883
>>1973889
>>1973890
which printer & filament? layer thickness? looks great btw!

how dangerous are ABS fumes really? I notice whenever im printing ABS i get a little light headed and drowsy

>>1973922
Very. Open a window and/or get a proper filter. And get an enclosure in either case.

>>1973922
>little light headed and drowsy
You're probably just noticing the smell. You're getting far more damage from the oven in your home or your car ride to work than you ever will from ABS. Is it 100% safe? No. Nothing is. But it's far bellow any measurable level.

You can read the MSDS sheets on Makerbot's website: http://download.makerbot.com/filament/ABS_MSDS_MakerBot_Stratasys.pdf

Seriously nothing to worry about... assuming... you're using ABS. But a lot of companies are making a lot of mixtures like the wood PLA, or bronze and copper. Now, if you mix ABS with some other shit and heat that up? I can't really tell you. Who knows. Read the label.

I print ABS all the time and don't even notice it anymore. If I worked at a factory that prints 1000s of items daily in ABS, I'd worry about it and would wear a respirator. But at home? It's a non-issue. It's not carcinogenic at 3D print temps.

>ABS is stable to decomposition under normal use and polymer processing conditions with exposure to carcinogens well below workplace exposure limits.[23] However, at higher temperatures at or above 400 °C (750 °F) ABS can decompose into its constituents: butadiene (carcinogenic to humans), acrylonitrile (possibly carcinogenic to humans), and styrene.[23]

>>1973921
>>1973913

Matchbox white and ender 3 pro. Thanks friends it really means a lot to me. I've been working hard to get it nice!

>>1973922
You posted a cat instead of a Pepe.
Sorry anon, your mind is already fucked up beyond repair. There is nothing we can do for you.

>>1973739
>Why is this so cheap anon?
The lack of a heated bed (and the smaller power supply that allows) would be the main reason.

>>1973933
Fucking autocorrect.
Hatchbox.

Check out my sick speed boat guys

>>1974019
What the fuck man
This looks like something a CR-30 failed to print

>>1974019
Y axis got stuck?

>>1974020
lol no Ender 3 pro actually

>>1974019
Looks like something a medieval fashion guru would wear on its feet. How did you achieve this masterpiece?

>>1974019
Like something Dali would print

>>1974019
It's so horrible it's beautiful

I want to make a drawer system that fits on my monitor stand so it isn't a bunch of wasted space. one problem I want to try and figure out is what is the best method to stack the different levels where they connect easily but it won't make the print that much more complex. a snapping together system would probably be best but I'm not sure how to design it.
any ideas?

>>1974118
couple notch and groove

>>1974124
would something like this work pretty well as long as it's tight enough?

>>1974118
Look for altoid tin drawers. I thought that looked pretty neat.

Dunno how much space you got under your stand

>>1974146
there is a 15cm gap between base and monitor. I want to leave the top open though so I can put a holder on top for phone and other shit.
for the altoids maybe I can take something like this and slap it into the model. though I might just go for a normal drawer, it could be a learning experience for tolerances and stuff.

>>1974019
Mistakes into miracles.

>>1974127
Keep in mind that holes have a tendency to come out slightly smaller than you think they would. Make sure to print a test version first to make sure your design actually works, because if it's too tight it won't fit even if the dimensions are right.

>>1974153
thats what I'm doing right now, checking the peg and hole alone. I wouldn't dare print something for hours just to have to trash it due to bad modeling

>>1974127
I would recommend rectangular sections and slots over small round pegs and holes. Add a slight draft angle too. Bonus points if you size them so you can sand them down to size.

>>1974161
ok I'll try that

>>1974163
Look into crush ribs, you should be able to design with good tolerances but still get a tight fit, that way.

>>1974127
I wouldn't use that exact design since the dowels can snap off easily. Use holes with metal dowel inserts or design a proper notch.

>>1974161
why are rectangles preferred?
>>1974165
that seems decent
>>1974175
I mean the dowel on the test print seems strong enough. I don't plan on throwing the drawer system off ledges and stuff.

>>1974196
>why are rectangles preferred?
Cross sections have a directional factor on load. Circular cross section has the same in all directions while rectangular cross section has (usually) an order of magnitude more load bearing in the direction of long axis

>>1974118
>>1974127
>>1974150
Nice idea mate, I think I'll steal it. If I do, I'll come back with how I'll try to do the coupling.

>>1974233
I havent done it yet but to keep it in place I have a couple ideas
1. use the holes on the bottom to add rubberized feet to grip better.
2. maybe add a cutout in the back to ziptie or something.
3. add a little disk sticking out the back that you can stick something into so it catches on the base, so that when you pull a drawer out it doesn't pull forward.

there could probably be better ways, but this is the first model I've made before.

>>1974243
What about having pegs or clips on the back that hook to the pedestal?

>>1974246
that works. the ziptie idea was exactly that but hopefully simpler to implement

>>1974248
Desudesu, a couple of slits in the back, loop the ziptie around, and a groove on the chassis or on the back of the shelf?

>>1974118
>>1974127
>>1974150
excellent idea anon but that coupling is crap. it will break sooner or later.
>what is the best method to stack the different levels where they connect easily
I have an idea for a hobby drawer but I'm stuck at that part too. I tried making something like a year ago but nothing I thought of worked out well. I'm hoping someone has some ideas and is willing to share. there must be dozens of products that already use a good system but I haven't come across it yet.

>>1974256
>there must be dozens of products that already use a good system
A lip-and-recess or lip-and-lip is a common solution in stacking desk drawers

>>1974251
this is the idea, have a cutout with an elongated pillar in center to loop around. have it close to where the back of the stand it, so you can feed it through but be kinda taught
>>1974256
my dowel hole system that I printed up to test seems pretty damn strong. I made the hole slightly bigger for tolerance and it is holding pretty tightly. maybe having 2 holes though for a wooden down could work?

>>1974262
>my dowel hole system that I printed up to test seems pretty damn strong. I made the hole slightly bigger for tolerance and it is holding pretty tightly. maybe having 2 holes though for a wooden down could work?
pics?
and how does it look on monitor base?

what if you use a heat gun to smooth out layer lines

>>1974265
I didn't print the whole thing just a cutout of the dowel and hole
they don't line up perfectly because I just did a random cut out of the model.
it slips on pretty easily (but snug) but is actually a bit of work to get off.

>>1974269
also there is a bit of elephant foot that I need to work on as you can see, the scratches on the corner are from me using pliers to try and pull it off.

>>1974270
initial layer line width 90%, initial layer flow 95%
initial layer horizontal expansion -0.2

>>1974269
interesting concept. pls post pics if you improve it more. I'd really like to see how it looks once you're done.
btw, you should move from TinkerCad... it's incredibly fiddly and hard to use.

>kinda bored
>decide to make a stand for my phone
>end up pretty happy with the design
>export STL, plug it into Cura
>slice it, default settings should be fine
>Cura fucks up the walls and infill
>what
>mess with the setting
>still fucks up
>what
>keep messing
>20 minutes of fruitless effort later
>realize I have vase mode on
>mfw

>>1973733
>deferred estep calibration for months because i didn't have my calipers
>fimally my calipers come back
>perform calibration
>100mm extrusion attempt only extrudes 83mm
>mfw i could have had a measurable improvement with just a garden variety school ruler
>mfw i have no face
Weird thumb not in the pic because I'm facepalming

>>1973922
I print abs and all the flies in my room die so I just vacuum them off the floor

Hi anons, I got a Ender 3 V2 on Black Friday. The stock model prints decently (I think) in PLA but I might like to print PETG or ASA for their thermal resistance and strength, sooner or later.
From what I understand, an all metal hotend is a requirement for that, along with direct extrusion. A downside, amongst others would be that I might have to risk clogs or swap nozzles if I would chose to print in PLA.
1. Is there a workaround for that? I'd like to be able to print both PLA and PETG (or ASA) on the same setup. PLA for pretty looking parts and PETG for heat and wear resistence - say; small enclosures for electronics projects.
2. Should I even bother with anything but PLA? PLA is decently priced, prints look nice, and I have options like Wood PLA and Metallic PLA. PETG is slightly cheaper, but is it as easy to work with on a regular basis? I don't need to print food safe parts, or stuff to use outdoors, but some of my prints might fail mechanically or get exposed to temps over 50-60 celcius which is apparently bad with PLA.
Give me your thoughts, and suggest upgrades too if you'd fancy. BLTouch is already on my list.

>>1974405
>I'd like to be able to print both PLA and PETG (or ASA) on the same setup
Mostly stock Ender 3 here, PETG works fine. Print a better fan shroud in PETG like the Satsana or Mini Me so the hotend fan doesn't blow on the parts, and bed detents so your bed levelling doesn't crawl.

>>1974405
I print PETG just fine in my printer without AMHE, if you want more rigid and heat resistant parts you need to go after nylon or CF filled or Glass filled parts.

If you intend to print wood/metal/or something filled with CF or glass you need a hardened nozzle. stay away from ruby nozzles because they chip very easily.

How can I delete this section of an extrusion in f360? I tried sketching around it, but that didn't work either. It's my first time using f360 and I didn't know what to search for.

>>1974407
Very interesting, which fan mod are you running? Also, I hadn't read about bed detents; but I'm a rookie so that was cool. I know Ender 3 supposedly can do PETG on stock config, but doesn't that lead to degrading the PETG lining inside the hotend? Also, what temps do you use for PETG? Thanks again.

>>1974408
I'd probably be just fine with PETG and PLA flavours (Metal/Wood/CF) and a nozzle change doesn't sound too bad. Any reccomendations for that? Thanks anon.

>>1974413
I bought a hardened nozzle on amazon, but you can basically buy one from aliexpress, banggood, etc. they're super easy to change out, 2 wrenches and like a minute to unscrew and screw in the other.

as for PETG I print it at 240

>>1974412
Kinda looks like you have two different bodies there. Maybe combine them? Then you should be able to select that face and extrude it down.

>>1974413
Also, go into your slicer and make sure you make the intial layer speed about 10-25 mm/s trust me it'll save you SO much headache when you're wondering why the PETG isn't sticking to the bed.

>>1974405
>an all metal hotend is a requirement for that
Recommended yes, required no. You can make do with the stock hotend assembly as long as you swap the standard PTFE tube with capricorn PTFE.
>I might have to risk clogs or swap nozzles if I would chose to print in PLA
Which is why I would not recommend all metal hotend until you learn your shit. And once you learn your shit you won't want just a stock hotend with all metal heatbreak anyways. Stick with the stock stuff for now, that shit just works. PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, you can do all this stuff with the standard hotend and 0.4mm brass nozzles. If you want something with wood or metal fill then you'll probably want steel nozzles.
>Should I even bother with anything but PLA?
Yes. Material choice is important for practical parts. For example PLA is very rigid, but also brittle: it would be a bad choice for parts that would have to flex because you risk snapping it. PLA is also the least resistant to the elements, if you leave it outside it will go bad in less than a year.

I also highly recommend this fan shroud for use in printing ABS/ASA. Without this the hotend fan will cool your print and the layers will warp or separate.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531

>>1974413
>Very interesting, which fan mod are you running?
Mini Me v4 printed in PETG: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296
>detents
I passed from leveling the bed on every print to leveling the bed every week
>I know Ender 3 supposedly can do PETG on stock config, but doesn't that lead to degrading the [PTFE] lining inside the hotend?
I know anon. I'm taking a bite out of my chair seat. If this production run goes well, I'm putting part of the proceedings towards Capricorn tubing and an all-metal hotend.
>what temps do you use for PETG?
240/70 because I want to run hot and fast. 230/65 should work too; it's what it says on my roll. Check what your rolls say.

>>1973922
considering plastic factory wagies don't drop like flies when they're melting literally tons of it, 48 hours a week for decades? Probably not the worst thing in your life.

>>1974417
Ahhhh ok. Should I shell the rectangle first, then combine and shell the square?

propane torch for finishing PLA y/n?

>>1974415
>>1974418
Noted, thank you. You probably saved me a first few failed prints in future with that.

>>1974419
Okay, so the first thing I should fix is replacing the filament tube with a capricorn. And i'll defintely order hardened steel nozzles as per the other reccomendation too.
Now I get why those fan mods are popular on thingiverse, it makes a lot of sense.

>>1974426
I like that fan shroud, pretty minimalistic.
Do you think I could get away with printing it in PLA before I reprint in PETG? Or the one the anon before you linked? I want to put it on before I try printing something in PETG. I'll replace it once I get PETG running on my printer.

I feel confident getting some PETG filament now, thanks a ton anons - really appreciate it.

>>1974468
>propane torch for finishing PLA y/n?
it'll melt right through it. with PLA the most you can use is a hair dryer. even a heat gun will melt through it quickly.

>>1974469
>Do you think I could get away with printing it in PLA before I reprint in PETG? Or the one the anon before you linked?
No. Even if printing PLA, it will get warm around the hotend, and it'll droop. If you want to print a fan shroud with PLA in particular, go for something that stays clear of the hotend, like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079610
and use duct tape around the hotend so it doesn't blow down when you eventually do print PETG.

>>1974476
obviously you just kiss it gently in multiple passes like you would spray paint

>>1974435
select the bottom face of the box for extrusion and choose 'cut' as your operation.

In the future you should make most things exclusively with sketches and the like. and don't really give much attention to tools like shell. Sketching and extruding gives you more control over your model.

>>1974469
The fan mods are popular because most people want the best overhang performance when printing with PLA. Those overkill dual fan shrouds have the same problem of unintentionally blowing air on your print just like the stock one. I printed a Hero Me V5 and ended up chucking it in the trash because my ABS was warping from all the air it was leaking.
The shroud I linked is supposed to pull air through the heatsink and up away from the bed. The layer cooling performance does not improve, but the layer cooling fan setting actually does something now, before this 100% or 0% was more or less the same.

>Do you think I could get away with printing it in PLA
Nope. You want at least PETG, ideally ABS. You can print PETG in decent quality with the stock fan shroud. Print one in PETG and install it, now you no longer have air blowing on the print so you can print a proper one in ABS that can stand up to printing at 260C.

>>1972534
I'm still new to printing, but I know that shifts are usually due to acceleration being set too high. So, this might be a dumb theory, but maybe the viscosity of this filament is just slightly higher than others, which causes extra drag during travel moves or even print moves. And the extra drag just pushes the motor beyond its acceleration limit.

>>1972534
I get that with petg in taller prints too. Never had a problem in PLA.

>>1974478
>>1974484
Got it, cheers. I have one more question but for that I'll post pictures of my prints tomorrow, it's late here. Thanks again, really appreciate the help.

>>1974499
You're welcome, sleep well anon!

Is this a big improvement over the solid coupler that came with my chink shit printer? It's an anycubic mega zero. It uses extruded aluminum frame and it's built square but I don't trust that it's 100% perfectly aligned so I don't understand why they chose a solid coupler.

>>1974526
>Is this a big improvement over the X that came with my chink shit printer?
Yes

I'm having fun.

>>1973823
>>1973829
printing the die again with the advised setting and it hasn't totally come off the plate but it is wobbling quite a bit at around the 1/3 mark. I'm going to let it run and see how much the wobble affects the outcome but do you have further advice at this time? Raft, supports?

>>1974019
neat

>>1972510
How would I create a knob exactly like pic related, with those notches?

>>1974602
Draw profile, extrude up-to surface (each direction), circular array.

>>1974606
Thanks, any recommendation on which software to use?

>>1974610
SolidWorks

>>1974610
solvespace

>>1974610
Tinkercad

>>1974579
no good, it eventually popped off after being rocked back and forth so much.

Trying a d24 this time (it's a little faster) with raft, supports, 210 initial layer temp. I only have time for one print a night and I hate to see it fail 2-3 hours in.

>>1974617
maybe this will stay still

>>1974610
openscad

>>1974620
maybe anon, godspeed

>>1974620
it worked

>>1974689
need some touch-up where the supports were obviously

>>1974691
and one layer looks kind of weird

But overall I think this will be great for doing more dice in the future.

>>1974246
slide the shaft in the lubricated hole.

>>1974559
proud of (You), Anon

>>1974689
Nice resolution. Did you use the .2mm nozzle?

>>1972572
I print them

>>1974702
.4 I think, whatever comes stock on the CR-10 V2. That other anon with adhesion problems with .2mm had me worried about swapping but with the raft and supports it should be fine.

>>1974482
>Sketching and extruding gives you more control over your model.
Thanks! I will keep that in mind. I'm just stumbling around messing with tutorials at this point. I'll figure it out eventually.

>>1974610
freecad

>>1974412
select face and do negative extrusion to bottom face

>>1974694
Congrats!

Is it normal for the hot end of your Bowden tube to get charred on an Ender 3? I've never heated it up anywhere near 260c which is when PTFE is supposed to char

>>1974816
I immediately replaced the factory bowden tube to capricorn and I highly recommend you do the same. Also do the hotend fix.

I'd like to buy an SLA 3D printer and I have a question.

Can I use other resins or only the brand's or other 3D printer brand's resin? For example a local store sells tool material resin. Can I buy it and use as the material of the print?

>>1974934
There are many types of resin like there are many types of plastic. You need special UV curing resin designed specifically for 3D printing. If you use other resins you very well may forfeit the entire machine.
I hope this answers your question.

finally set up my second ender3, the point of getting it was for using a .2mm nozzle. friends requested bad dragon as a test print, one is done with the stock .4 and the other is .2. the first project i was testing was for mahjong tiles, the detail on the faces is too fine for .4. i've been having jamming issues, tried turning up the heat to 220 (capricorn tubing) and slowing down the print speed but found it had jammed during printing over night. layer adhesion seems to have worsened at 220 as well. any ideas on what i can do to fix this?

>>1974934

As long as it's made for 405nm light any resin will work. Only formlabs printers and industrial ones use a lower wavelength.

>>1974970
Did you do the trapped PTFE tube hotend fix? If yes, did you make sure the cut is perfectly perpendicular?

>>1974972
Forgot to add, only go for 3d printing resin. That craft stuff may work, but it might also go very wrong. It woul be like putting random garden trimmer line in an FDM printer instead of filament

>>1974972
>formlabs printers use a lower wavelength.
What? No they don't, it's 405nm, same as any other.

I'm legit impressed with how well the CR10v2 does with detail. This is with a .4mm nozzle, .12mm layers and 25mm/s edges and 50mms infill. Tree style supports also do pretty nicely and came off effortlessly

I mostly planned to use this for parts and not anything aesthetic, but it might work much better than expected with a few coats of filler primer to lessen layer texture

>>1974973
i had but when i looked at the tubing near the hotend there was a thin coating of filament. cut off the coated section and trying my print again back at 200C but even slower at 20 mm/s

So, I'm receiving a spool of glow in the dark PLA soon. Any ideas of funny shit to make with it?
Other than dragon dildos, obviously.

How long does creality typically take to ship? I'm in America, ordered an ender 5 9 days ago and it still hasn't even been shipped, getting kinda pissed

>>1975043
Anon, you ordered a thing online in December 2020.
What the fuck do you expect?

>>1975044
maybe some honesty from the company? this estimate was posted this month, doesn't look like it's going to happen

did a test print for my soon to be solderfan, how retarded is it to put two 140mm fans in series? also want to sink the bolt head into the design so I need to do some modifications, also need to round some edges

>>1975066
Very much, you will have no improvements in airflow and you'll have one fan with overheating issues and busting the bearing which will further hinder the other fan. Putting them next to each other is a much more sane option.

>>1975066
fine I guess, people do push/pull on heatsinks all the time, I'm guessing a carbon filter will be in the middle?

>>1975074
Oh sorry, meant to say in a push pull config as the post below indicated

>>1975076
>I'm guessing a carbon filter will be in the middle?
putting a 4mm carbonfilter in between

>>1975076
push/pull on a heataink is different because the "load" is actually between the fans. The equivalent would be intake/outtake in a case, not two directly in series.

>>1975050
>honesty from the chinese
Not fucking happening. I ordered something that was supposed to be in a US warehouse, was promised "4-8 days shipping", I emailed them 12 days later asking "yo, where the fuck is my package" and they made up some excuse about how it's been sitting in a UPS boat for the past week... and then the shipping label gets created an hour later, and it's being shipped out of fucking Shanghai.

Only had my printer a few weeks now, about to start my first bigish print (pic related).
How retarded would it be to try to print this without supports? Should I use a brim for something with this little surface area? (The inside is hollow.)
Sorry if these are idiotic questions, I'm paranoid about waking up to a mountain of spaghetti tomorrow.

>>1975108
I'm not an expert by any means but if it looks solidly on the plate after an inch of height it should make the rest no problem

>>1975050
Mine arrived within a week, ordered it on black Friday and had it like - next wednesday or something. That was from EU (DE) to DK though.

>>1975043
>>1975050
I ordered a CR-10 on Black Friday and it showed up the next Monday.

>>1975090
Yeah it's no surprise really, I try not ordering Chinese products but I heard good things about the ender series
>>1975139
>>1975135
Were these through Amazon? I've heard they ship faster than the official site. It could also be because the ender 5 is in more demand and therefore is out of stock in America (even if the website says they have it in stock)

>>1975145
>Were these through Amazon
the CR-10 was yeah

>>1975108
That overhang doesn't look too bad.

>>1975108
>>1975252
any overhang below 45 degrees is generally safe to print without supports.

>>1974019
I feel better about my life simply by looking at this. I'm in the middle of a divorce and my life is falling apart, but holy fuck at least I'm not dealing with this shit. God bless you, Anon.

Anyone have experience with Inland PLA? IS it actual decent quality at that price

>>1975341
I use it all the time. I get the PLA+ spooless version and have a reuseable spool. I store the open rolls in a vacuum bag with desiccant. I don't have any instruments to test strength or anything, but it seems pretty strong. It's kind of a "chewy" plastic when I cut the supports, so not completely brittle.

>>1975341
Yeah, it takes some tuning to get it just right, but I can't tell the difference between it and others. Hatchbox is still my favorite though.

I'll post my settings for it when I get back to my desktop.

>>1975405
>>1975354
>>1975341
Here is my settings for standard inland PLA

Getting some great results on the dice. The d60 is gorgeous except for the support scars (next pic) but it rolls like a sphere so I'm printing a bigger, sharper one now. The d30 is just about perfect.

>>1975444
it seems like a raft with a face flat against it and no supports is the way to go on these, as ones printed with a vertex down on supports makes 4+ faces that need extensive cleanup instead of one.

>>1975445
most of those look pretty bad. on the top right one you should use a raft and then the bottom might not have those nasty looking textures

>>1975448
they all had rafts but the bottom two used supports also. I can't find a good way to get it to print the numbers well on the overhanging sides. Sometimes the point it needs to hit on that layer is an airgap away from anything else.

>>1975454
Why not print flat faces and paint the numbers on? Maybe do the number detents with 45° angled sidewalls?

>>1975468
That would look like shit.

>>1975444
>>1975445
You'd get great results if you split each dice in 2 halves and print them with the cross section down

>>1975498
the fuck am I looking at?

>>1975517
spaghetti garbage

>>1972534
That doesn't look like x-axis shifts. Looks more like filament diameter inconsistency.

New Thread
>>1975543

>>1975498
If you're printing often spaghetti detective is pretty great.

>>1973319
you fucking dinlow anon

>>1973672
no shit

>>1974714
how about you try to learn to use fusion, or start with somthing els

>>1974970
>pla dildo
kys

>>1975274
>>1975108
Depending on your settings you can push it as far as 60%. Not necessarily a smart thing to do, but it's good to know you have some margin.

Fug.

I just finished a 26-hour print and now I can't get the fucking thing off the fucking buildplate. I always use hairspray to make shit stick, but it seems it's a bit too strong for larger prints.

>>1975870
Use the scraper and go as fast as you can with your thrusts.
I've found that the momentum generated from doing it fast is far superior to trying to slowly pry it off.
Also maybe keep your bed warm while you do it, that sometimes helps me.

>>1975870
Sometimes adding iso to where the plastic meets the plate starts unsticking the item

>>1975870
Get a box cutter like pic related with the extendable blade, press it flat against the build plate and just peel it off, ez.

>>1976083

Not him but anon that sounds like You'd scratch the ever living fuck out of your glass bed. Holy shit. I mean glass is cheap as fuck and so are glue sticks but fuck man. It probably works better than the scraper they come with.

It's a two way street, having your print stick like a motherfucker with no rafts feels great. But getting the fucking thing off is a nightmare.

>>1975870
I ended up getting it off without most of the bottom layer, which still stuck to the plate.

I think it might be the shitty filament I used. I got some cheap shit off Amazon but it doesn't behave quite the same way as my usual filemanent, being both more sticky and more brittle. I didn't manage to scrape off the remains of the bottom layer, so I soaked it in water overnight which made it peel off easily.

>>1977377
>glass is cheap as fuck
I highly advise you to stay away from the cheap as fuck glass.
I fell for the creality glass meme and after 3 months of use it started to disintegrate.
One day when I was removing a print I noticed 2 glass shards around 4*15mm stuck to the raft. Weird as fuck because I was printing ABS which doesn't stick all that well and I had a layer of glue too. Next print, same ABS, more shards stuck to the raft.
Now I'm printing some PLA, will provide pics once it's done. I just hope it won't come of with even more glass than the ABS.