/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1967033
>3 of my prints in OP

>>1967043
Goes to show how dead the general is

>>1966747
>>Has anyone here run multiple filaments through one extruder with Cura's "pause at layer" function?
>Yeah
>>If so, how did it work?
>I got a couple of scratches but it worked, overall. I'll send pics tomorrow.
Rinnegan guitar pick for my Naruto fan brother. Maybe I should have done the colour change on the second layer of the pattern instead of the first one. Some details were lost to my 0.4mm nozzle.

day 2 newfag here. Tried printing a preloaded sample gcode last night and lost adhesion within 15 minutes. What do? Cmagnet pad? Manually heat the plate hotter?

>>1967059
model is CR-10 V2, stock everything, PLA

>>1967044
>Goes to show how dead the general is
>new thread every 2 days or less
It's just that that anon is quite prolific
>>1967059
Welcome! And post your parameters, printer, filament, etc

>>1967059
>>1967060
Pics of the first layer? How did you level it? Did you make sure to clean the bed? Bed and nozzle temps?

>TFW printing non-stop since I got my printer up and running again
>everything is off the shelf stuff from thingiverse
>didn't develop my own stuff for weeks now
all my friends that I played squad with are now busy playing WoW
I guess I should fire up freecad tonight
>>1967059
what are your settings?
could be that the z-offset is a bit to big, in that case level your bed again. pla should stick great at 60C. also clean the bed

>>1967063
>Pics of the first layer?
not home now but I can get pics in a few hours

>How did you level it?
A4 paper barely scratching the nozzle/plate at each corner
Leveled twice, first after assembly then againthe next day before first print attempt. After it failed I checked again and it hadn't changed noticeably.

>Did you make sure to clean the bed?
I removed the plastic cover maybe 10 minutes before preheating in a fairly dust free room.

>Bed and nozzle temps?
Auto PLA settings, I believe 200°C nozzle and 60°C bed iirc

>>1967064
>what are your settings?
>could be that the z-offset is a bit to big, in that case level your bed again. pla should stick great at 60C. also clean the bed
Everything is stock. Is that offset in software or do I need to physically raise the bed slightly?

>>1967059
Your bed is too low. first layer should be impacted into the bed. re-level bed so you can barely squeak a piece of paper between nozel and bed.

>>1967063
>Did you make sure to clean the bed?
This is a meme. my printer is 6 years old and I have never cleaned the bed even once and it works fine.

>>1967074
>A4 paper barely scratching the nozzle/plate at each corner
How thicc is it? For thiccer papers you might want to squeeze it harder (>>1967077)

>>1967077
>barely squeak a piece of paper between nozel and bed.
That is what I did but I'll give it another few mils up I guess.

>>1967079
normal printer paper. I guess I can use a reciept or something thinner.

>>1967080
normal printer paper is fine. it should feel like you're pulling it out from under your phone.

>>1967081
alright I'll try it again late tonight.

Also, when using the Creatality slicer, it doesn't always add supports where it obviously needs them. What's up with that?

On pic related it only adds supports to the left arm but not the right, and not the tail or beak either. I know there's a manual support option but it seems odd that the auto function doesn't work in this case.

>>1967084
>Creatality
Creality, sorry. Sounds like Mortal Kombat.

>>1967084
Use cura.

>>1967090
Oh no, you'll invoke the wrath of the Cura hater anon

>>1967084
Honestly you don't even want supports on that because you'll be sanding all the little bumps off for a while. It's better to chop up the parts that need support and print them separately.

>>1967084
+1 for cura

I got some mosquito knockoffs from the mainland today for my E3 CR-10 V1. The specs for the CR-10 say the temp goes up to 250 degees. Should I buy a better thermal coil (whatever that cylindrical piece is called the produces the heat)? Will I need to make any changes to the motherboard? This will be for printing NylonX. Any recommendations for a good quiet 25mm fan?

>>1967033
Is there anything special about the SainSmart version of the Ender 3?

>>1967064
>I guess I should fire up freecad tonight
i made a picatinny rail grip with freecad, but using it to make game models seems hellish. blender might be a bit better for that

>>1967084
Use cura. It's way simpler to use for basic prints or when you just need it to work, no fuss.

Also, that fucker who comes in here like "muh cura not gud enugh fer muh printz" is either printing parts that need incredibly specific settings or is just a total autist who's exerting way too much control over his slicer for no good reason.

>>1967170
That's a paid S3D shill, anon.
If you go into the hidden settings you realize there's a fuckton of shit you can change in Cura. Whatever incredibly specific setting you need is most likely there already.

>>1967170
Slic3r > Cura
Cura's for retards who can't set up things properly.

>>1967244
yes, and that's me.

First print on my diy printer, looks good for not having a part cooling fan yet. Ended up breaking its tail trying to remove the print from the bed, adhesion is way too good on glass + gluestick.

How do I know the proper Wattage heater cartridge to buy for my Ender 3 CR-10V1? I added a new hotend but I need a higher temp heater core to achieve hotter temps. Do I need to be aware of the max power draw from my power supply? Do I need to be concerned about having a proper MoBo connection? I want to be able to go up to 290 degrees.

>>1967262
Have you tried the stock one? As far as I know that's good for up to 300C

>>1967258
Congrats anon! Do you have a pic of the whole printer? Did you follow an existing model or did you design it from scratch?
Did you try prying it off real slow and sneaky beaky like with a retractable knife or razor or something of the sort?

>>1967270
Thanks! It's a welded frame 3d printer. A mix of "thing:4507627" and "thing:3116031" and other prusa-compatible parts. Next thing I need to do is some cable management, it's mess as you can see.

I was a little impatient when removing the part and tried to do by hand only. Next time I'll use a scraper tool. Still I made a mistake while slicing and left a brim way too big for a model this size which only made thinks harder.

>>1967280
It looks disgusting and I love it! What filament did you use?

>>1967280
Esun Pla+. Smells really good.

I feel like ripping off the prusa design but with a belt driven z axis. Core xz but without the x, basically an old drafting table design. Any thoughts? Seems like it would be nice to get rid of the lead screws/racking... maybe for an idex?

I think i just want to make something for the fuck of it.

>>1967292
Why? A lead screw is much better for the z axis.

>see cnckitchen print trimmer line
>order some
>read about health hazard, filament could emit cyanide
>its printing right now
thanks Jesus

>>1967297
that trimmer line is such a shit deal. it's way more expensive per gram than actual nylon filament.

>>1967297
Does it smells like bitter almond?

>>1967295
Faster z movements, eliminates racking without needing two leadscrews, remove z banding.

Could be interesting.

>>1967300
Not for everyone.
If I were to buy a roll of nylon I'd be paying at least 65 european pesos for it. I did the maths on it and 1kg of nylon bought as trimmer wire would end up being around 50 euros.
There's also the storage question, nylon is hygroscopic as fuck and you'd need a dry box for it. With trimmer line I can give zero fucks about that, I just store it in a plastic box along with my other rolls and before I print I throw the nylon in the oven at 100C for an hour. Works flawlessly.
The only problem I have with mine is that I can't find 1.7mm wire, I have to use 1.4mm. This means I can't print too fast with it or I risk stripping the wire.

>>1967306
it smelled of burnt pla when i swapped the nylon in, it was bubbling and visibly fuming
should've kept it in the oven for longer and hotter
>>1967300
maybe, the pic related roll was 2.69€ which is like 5% of the upfront invest i would have compared to a spool actual filament. its enough for my 1:28 rc-car parts

>>1967315
>There's also the storage question
trimmer lines is not vacuum packed and it's purposely made 'moist' so it's tougher. that means you have to dry it for a day to get it to a usable state.
nylon filament is properly packed and comes from the factory with minimal moisture content. you can still dry it for an hour to get out that last 1% but it will print fine out of the package.
you can then store it back into a bag and such out air and fill it with a dessicant.

trimmer line is just a fucking gimmick to get views.

>The only problem I have with mine is that I can't find 1.7mm wire, I have to use 1.4mm.
good luck printing with that reliably. extruders can't even handle 10 micron differences well let alone 100s.

Thoughts on CR-10 V2? it's on sale for $380 and I'm considering it. I want to print shit like panoramic medium format cameras and other shit. because of the big sizes I want a 300x300 at least. it seems like the very best thing I can get for the price. (also I am a beginner, though I have done prints at college before so I know the software and stuff well enough to work it)

>>1967320
go for it. you won't find a better deal

>>1967320
I just picked one up for the same deal.

t. >>1967059

>>1967322
>>1967323
also, are some of the upgrades that people do like higher quality extruders a meme only for when you are really into it and want everything optimized? I'd expect as long as I have the bed leveled and shit, I should be able to print almost anything (maybe not insane overhangs) without it being a complete failure. like, a camera without it having holes that makes it useless, right?

>>1966884
This was around 200mesh, whatever opening that is, around 50-100 microns i guess.
The mesh was 150x150mm. I made the outside and the inside 7mm larger and smaller, so theres room for play when adding the mesh. 7mm overlap with the mesh provides good enough sticktion with the plastic.
Printed with .2 layerheight.

>what CAD
Its PTC Creo 3.0, not the best, not the greatest. Ive been using this for 7-8 years now, so i can get shit done in no time. I just cant bring myself to learn a different CAD.
Free for educational use i think, but i anone wants to learn this i advise against it, learn solid/fusion/blender instead.

>>1967325
It looks like if fusion 360 had a baby with microsoft word.

>>1967320
Have you looked at the A8 Plus?
It's much cheaper and is 300x300 too (has a little less height though).

>>1967319
>you have to dry it for a day to get it to a usable state
One hour is enough if you do it at 100C. There's not a lot of line to dry so it dries up quickly. If it was an entire 1kg filament spool then things would have been different.
>nylon filament is properly packed and comes from the factory with minimal moisture content
It still sucks moisture out of the air.
>you can then store it back into a bag and such out air and fill it with a dessicant
Only if it's an airtight bag. That's why I brought up storage. I don't have a way to store nylon properly so I'd have to dry it every now and then. Drying the entire spool is asking for trouble since I have no idea if the spool will melt at 100C or not.

>trimmer line is just a fucking gimmick to get views
If you can get nylon at a decent price aka 25-35$ then good for you. I'd be overpaying for the same roll by 2-3x. Also I don't print nylon that often so breaking bank on an entire roll doesn't really make sense.

>good luck printing with that reliably
Thanks bro, I already did :^)
Christmas tree, car trim clips and arrow nocks, all printed with trimmer wire nylon.

>>1967327
seems like chinkshit and some places are saying fire hazard. it might be something really good for someone more experience and has the know how to make it work and upgrade it, but idk, I feel like the CR-10v2 it just a safer setup to go with for beginner.

>>1967334
>seems like chinkshit
They're both chink shit.
The fire hazard meme is from the old A8. The A8 Plus is completely different.

>>1967334
>seems like chinkshit and some places are saying fire hazard
it's bullshit. Creality is too a fire hazard. None of the chink printers have thermal runaway protection out of the box. That's why you flash new firmware anyway.

When you buy chinkshit, first thing you should do is:

1) Check the wiring and cut off all tinned wires that go into terminal blocks
2) Check out your XT60 connectors that they're not fake
3) install new firmware with thermal runaway protection

That's a bare minimum. Anyone who just plugs their chinkshit and prints with it is a retard who's playing with fire.

>>1967326
With extra tumors.

>>1967325
>learn fusion
no one should be learning that cloudshit garbage. you can't even save your files with full history.

BTW, Creo 7 looks much better... just judging by the screenshots.

>>1967342
>With extra tumors.
Fusion is a tumor in and of itself.

Does anyone have experience with OctoPrint on a Pi Zero?

>>1967341
>muh tinned wires
>muh fake connectors
How many times do we have to tell you to shut the fuck up about this?
Previously you have provided zero proof that:
1) the tin on the wires of an Ender 3 can melt
2) the fake connectors cannot carry as much load as the genuine ones
No, spamming pics from google is not proof, you have to prove your claims yourself or link to someone that properly tested this.

>>1967353
>we
it's just you you stupid 3rd world fuck.

>>1967341
>None of the chink printers have thermal runaway protection out of the box
Wrong, they would have had to explicitly turn it off in marlin which they did not.

>>1967306
Apparently only a small amount of people can smell that.

>>1967341
>>1967353
>>1967370

Next they'll ask "if chinkshit printers are fire hazards what should I buy?", in which OP replies "you should get a Prusa because it's original and non-chinkshit" (((except it is)))

>>1967345
What's a similar program to fusion? I'd like to make the switch, but I don't know what to use.

>>1967377
Ah, yes, the good old "muh non chinkshit prusa".
Whatever the fuck you're building and selling you're going to end up buying shit from china.
If it's not parts like extrusions, linear rails, steppers, etc then it's the raw materials used to make them. China is the world's manufacturing hub and if you're looking to sell printers on a global scale then you will end up dealing with the chinese for at least some of the stuff you need.

>>1967379
Fusion 360. It's the easiest, most developed and most supported CAD out there which is perfectly fine to use(and free) unless you plan on designing top secret military parts with it or some shit.

You can use fusion 360 in offline mode if you're that much of a fucking autist. But it's really not necessary.

>>1967379
It might not really say anything about how easy it is to learn, or how powerful it is, but all the non-vitamin parts of Lulzbots are available, and it seems like they were created, using FreeCAD. I've found it a little confusing since there are multiple ways to do many tasks, but if you are making simple parts you can probably get going in a weekend of screwing around.

>>1967392
You can get everything you need for a printer manufactured outside China.
Countries like Germany produce a fuck ton of machining parts (and a 3d printer is nothing more than a CNC). Even the chinks will import Western parts for their machines if they require a high amount of precision and quality that Chinese factories haven't reached yet.

>>1967359
>just you
Nah there's like at least three anons that call you out on your bullshit mate

>>1967063
>Pics of the first layer

>>1967405
That's two layers anon; could you post the underside of that?

>>1967402
And now you have a $1000+ scamshit instead of $180 chinkshit

>>1967408

>>1967405
Definitely looks like a leveling issue

>>1967409
>>1967402
Spamanon here from Argentina. Just be grateful of whatever you can get your hands on.

Also fuck import quotas, fuck taxes, and last but above all fuck the st*te.

>>1967411
>>1967410
Yeah, he should tighten the bed a quarter turn on each knob or so at least

>>1967410
I leveled it again just now to make another attempt and it was way out again, but I'm also at the limit of the spring tension for the leveling mechanism. I got it as close as I could so we'll see if the spring stretches out.

>>1967402
I didn't say that you can't, but somewhere along the line China is still involved, usually in the form of raw materials if it's not ready made parts. A lot of the metallurgic industry in Europe has downsized due to pollution regulations and competition from China. Whatever is left produces stuff at rather high prices because it's the good shit, unlike, say, the steel or aluminum that comes from China which obeys no standards whatsoever.
So your "locally produced" extrusions or rails end up being made out of chinesium, because it's cheaper and it's good enough for the job. The good shit goes to car manufacturers or other applications where it makes more sense to use it.
That being said, between the 3D printed plastics they use and the misc. parts they could source locally like wires and switches the Prusas might actually have the minimum number of parts produced in the EU to legally call it a product made in EU.

>>1967413
>Just be grateful of whatever you can get your hands on
Also this. Here in Romania the 220$ I paid for an Ender 3 Pro is almost a month of average wage.

>>1967415
>Here in Romania the 220$ I paid for an Ender 3 Pro is almost a month of average wage.
Big oof mate. At least you are approximately market prices. Here you have a bunch of tax bullshit on top of that.

Also, maya who?

>>1967415
>So your "locally produced" extrusions or rails end up being made out of chinesium, because it's cheaper and it's good enough for the job.
No one makes things like extrusions exclusively for 3d printers (at least in the West). 2020 extrusion are a Rexroth product, a company for industrial automation where quality is extremely important. They're not using random chinesium for this stuff.

>>1967417
I managed to dodge the taxes because it was shipped from an EU warehouse. Items from the EU aren't taxed.
If it came from China I'd be paying extra 19% VAT and 35% import tax "to discourage non-EU imports". Top kikery, rabbis would approve.
I recently bought a titan extruder with a volcano hotend, a larger stepper for the Y axis and some other misc. parts, total of around 100$. When I'll go get them I'll be paying another 50$ for them.
And no, buying the original stuff from E3D isn't cheaper because they're in the UK and they're not EU anymore. Pay up, goy :^)/\

not sure if it's clear from the pic but it looks like the right side of the horizontal axis is way higher than the left, and the right adjustment screw is at its limit. This is the side that tends to lose adhesion. Is there a way to move this side down a hair?

>>1967430
If you can print something, then you can try to print a Z spacer to put under the left motor.

>>1967430
Take your Z stop on the left side, cut off the little tab that stops you from moving it further down, then move it further down. Then you can get your bed level with the springs under more compression, rough it in under the nozzle with paper until it's trammed, then use the firmware z offset or bed height setting to dial it in until the first layers squish just right.

>>1967430
Is that x-axis all colours of fucked-up or is it just me?

>>1967430
I don't understand, are you unable to rotate the right lead screw to move it further down?

>>1967430
>>1967432
>print a Z spacer to put under the left motor
He could even do with washers, discarded rafts, or folded paper

>>1967307
Belt drive Z axis will smash down as soon as it looses power or drive signal. Leadscrew will hold the gantry without power
Belt drive Z is a shit, especially when it smashes through a 1.5 day print

>>1967452
>Leadscrew will hold the gantry without power
If your leadscrew motor is properly spaced then the gantry will drop down.
>Belt drive Z is a shit, especially when it smashes through a 1.5 day print
And that's why you M109 R40 before turning off the steppers.

>>1967432
>>1967435
>>1967451
I'll try these

>>1967440
that's what I'm saying

>>1967445
right, the spring no longe has tension. The wheel spins freely and the plate doesn't move up any more.

About 15 mins into another try. I juat cycles preheating and leveling until I could get the height up a bit more. It's staying better so far. Farthest it's gone yet, but every time I think we're good and step away it falls off.

different model too but it seemed simple enough

>>1967258
>adhesion is way too good on glass + gluestick.
get pic related and file it to a really long edge like a knife with a bastard file. congrats everything will come off clean because you can wiggle the blade under the model and rock it back and forth to separate.

>>1967460

>If your leadscrew motor is properly spaced then the gantry will drop down.

I have never seen that happen and it is absolutely counter intuitive to me, I have to admit. My gantry just stays in place and it takes considerably more force to move it compared to the belt driven elements of the printer.

>>1967460
>If your leadscrew motor is properly spaced then the gantry will drop down.
Imagine being this retarded.

>>1967476
>I have never seen that happen and it is absolutely counter intuitive to me

Probably because it's (half) wrong. Whether or not a vertical axis will hold is entirely dependent upon the friction characteristics of the screw, lubricant used, the mass it's holding up, and the cogging/detent torque of the motor driving it.

As a prime example:

The Z axis on my Ender 3 holds itself up with no power, because the gantry weighs very little, it uses an acme screw, and the motor has relatively high detent torque. This is also the typical situation for most printers.

The Z axis on my CNC router will not hold itself up without power, because the head weighs a lot, it uses a ballscrew, and the motor has relatively little detent torque. Many larger CNC machines have mechanical brakes on vertical axes that hold them in place when power is off, specifically to counteract this issue.

>>1967468
X-Acto #18 blade, you'll thank me later

>>1967493
Fuck the what

>>1967468
>>1967495
I'm trying different types of plastic cards. Ordered a sheet of tpfe to test out, but it'll probably take a month or so to get here.

>>1967485
>Many larger CNC machines have mechanical brakes on vertical axes that hold them in place when power is off, specifically to counteract this issue.

That makes sense to a degree. But in that case we'd be looking at a "slow drop" in a 3d printer, as in the lead screw slowly turning and the gantry slowly dropping surely?

>>1967476
>I have never seen that happen and it is absolutely counter intuitive
Why would it be counter intuitive? If it stays in place then there is a source of extra drag somewhere. Either your rollers are too tight or your motor is spaced incorrectly. For me it was the latter, after I added the spacer the gantry would no longer stay in place with the steppers off. Basically I have eliminated a source of drag, and in doing so I increased the accuracy of my Z moves.

>>1967485
>the motor has relatively high detent torque
When powered. Once the firmware times out the steppers you have almost no torque to hold your shit in place. For people that build and use their Ender 3s in the way the chinese drones intended that's not a problem because due to shitty alignments and adjustments the gantry will end up with enough drag to hold it in place.
I wish I could demonstrate but I'm printing right now and it still has 8 hours left.

>>1967493
>dip drawer
that sounded alot more disgusting before i knew he meant chip dip.

>>1967462
Don't shim the motor, don't bother with preheating for rough leveling with the paper. Just move the z stop down a couple mm until you can get your springs nice and tight.

>>1967485
>acme screw
I'm willing to bet that's almost the entire reason why the gantry will hold itself up. The thread has an angle less than 45 degrees so it'll be at a severe mechanical disadvantage. The slightest bit of friction will keep it held in place.

It's finally complete.

>>1967568
The greatest christmas gift.

>>1967568
>>1967571
nice. gonna paint her?
now print corona-chan.

Just threw on some $9 LED strip I got off ebay on my Ender 3.

>>1967575
I don't have the STL for coronachan. Also, I'm going to give it to a friend, he does warhammer so he can paint it.

>>1967581
>RGB for a fucking printer

when will this meme die. My stock ryzen cooler is fucking AIDS with it's hard wired RGB.

>>1967584
I have an enclosure and I can't see shit inside. It's also clearly white LED's.

>>1967306
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYagO-nup6c

star is a little fucked up, maybe I'll try to make it bigger.

>>1967595
fucking commie

>>1967595
Finally, an anti immigrant activist that will close our borders

>>1967584
I use a flashlight to look at how the print goes all the time. Mounting a light to the printer is functional.

>>1967595

Almost finally finished printing the redesign of my fight stick. This time, instead of having the top attach onto a deep case, I'm making it so everything goes in the top part with just a thin bottom plate to cover it all up. It's also a bit more compact without sacrificing actually used palm space and has a full-size sega layout.

>>1967595

anyone have any experience with water pumps they've either created themselves or have downloaded and used?
Just want to know if there's any real merit to printing my own for cheap vs buying one for like $25 bucks

>>1967462
success

need to review the model and slicer beause the top is just rough fill, no finish at all.

>>1967584
I zip tied an old light bar that was missing its back plate to one of the struts in my enclosure. It tends to not stay on because the batteries shift, i need to throw another tie on there

>>1967595
why is there a commie fuck pedo in the christian 3d printing general

>>1967628
Well, what did change that made it work?

>>1967622
Neat design anon. Looks professional.

>>1967644
We'll see if it's actually worth anything when it finishes in two hours.

>>1967647
looks very simple and I really appreciate you chamfered the corners instead of putting a radius on them like most others would do.

>>1967649
Hey, thanks. I've only ever done cad stuff for the printer so I've tried to learn how to design parts in a way that makes sense to print.

>>1967639
I just leveled, preheated, failed, leveled, preheated, cooled down, leveled, preheated, printed. I assume the spring stretched a bit more but I'm still going to try lowering everything later.

>>1967584
bro just cut the leds off

>>1967493
FUCKING BASED

>>1967622
>>1967647
Looks great. What did you design it in? Also, those holes look really good... supports came out cleanly?

>>1967664
Done in solidworks. That's still actively printing in that photo, no supports.

>>1967033
>pic related
I need to print 2 spacers for 120mm fans in a pc. I have a link to a stl file if that helps, but i'd need to modify it. We're just talking about a 120x120x8mm frame to lift the fan up just a smidge to have better contact with a GPU, pic related.
I dont own a printer, or know anyone with one. Does anyone know a good site to get two of these printed without getting reamed? If not, I could make these out of wood, but a print seems like a better use of material and time

>>1967647
I'd recommend fillets here instead of chamfers, also you didn't break the corners on the front at all.

>>1967671
Fillets wouldn't print as well overhanging (the top of this prints on the bed), and I like the clean look of the flat front face.

>>1967672
I've had no issues printing fillets on the underside. I just use a 4mm wide brim .12mm thick.
Not breaking corners on parts can lead to injury and significantly weakens the product, as sharp corners are stress risers

>>1967674
Cool, I have no issue printing chamfers with no brim. I don't think there's a risk of anyone injuring themselves on the front of this, and I don't think strength is going to be affected meaningfully. Granted, I have no math to back that up, but I feel like adhesion between layers or at the infill transition is going to be a strength issue long before those four sharp edges will be. This also prints very nearly edge-to-edge on the Y axis of my bed; there's no room for a brim.

>>1967677
You're printing it out of PLA, right?
Drop it at the wrong angle and it'll fracture.

>>1967679
PLA+, yeah. I don't intend to drop it, and I'm still not convinced that a bit of a radius on those edges would be the difference between fracturing or not.

>>1967681
It's just one of the many "best practices" in design/manufacturing.

>>1967682
I'm aware of that, and after considering the mechanical and aesthetic goals of my design, I've decided to omit them from the front face. Also, sorry if I'm not jumping to take best practices advice from the same person advising a fillet coming up from the bed, when it's super clear even to a novice that a chamfer is the clear choice for a best practice for FDM.

>>1967684
Even if you do go with a chamfer on the bottom, a fillet is going to be much better ergonomically on the top edge.

>>1967691
That's a sensible observation. On my last version, I found that my skin was never really against the edge, and even when it was the chamfer combined with some of the inherent rounding from the printing process made it comfortable.

Difficult to build an IDEX printer?

>>1967736
Based on the price tag, I'm going to assume most people here haven't used one. Seems targeted more to engineering/education.

Came out great! .2mm layers, 4 top/bottom layers, 15% infill. It's super sturdy and everything is fitting exactly like I modeled it to. First time using heat-set inserts, I tested the hole dimensions and especially the taper to make sure they would work well. After you get it sunk in with the iron, you can use a long screw to kind of finesse them to be straight.

Next is to get the electronics in and wire it all up, then print the bottom and get the countersinks right for the screws. Very pleased with this outcome, much more elegant than my last design. I might actually take some decent photos and make this one available publicly since all the other printable stick designs I can find have exposed screw heads on the top panel and stuff.

>>1967756
Iterating on a design feels super rewarding.
What inserts did you use? Did you use the soldering iron trick or insert an M0 and drop it in mid-print?

>>1967758
I was going to source proper inserts that had design guidelines and stuff from farnell, but they were expensive. I got some off amazon, but I made sure to get the ones that had a narrower section at the bottom so that they would register in the holes before I started melting. I just set my iron to 250 and touched it to the top without any pressure except the weight of the iron, then gently pressed once it started getting melty until it was flush down. They are super secure even though they're just little M3 sleeves (any larger and they would have gone deep enough at the stick mount to get within a couple of layers of the top skin).

>>1967762
You can also use stuff like hex nuts for a cheaper option, but those inserts really do look more professional.

>>1967763
I also wanted ease of printing without having to use any supports or anything, and I wanted the top skin to be totally clean. Modeling an appropriately sized hole and just cutting threads in with the screw actually holds as well or better (according to cnc kitchen tests), but once you remove them once or twice they start to suck. These were cheap and I have a camera back project I need them for too so I'm very happy to have a 50 pack of them.

>>1967756
Looks legit! Good job

>>1967353
>1) the tin on the wires of an Ender 3 can melt
holy shit dude

>>1967353
>dummy zoomey being mad about being a dummy zoomey
That or a chinkshit shill spazzing and being mad

>>1967762
What length are these M3 inserts? They sell a whole bunch of lengths for M3 screws... no idea which size to pick.

>>1967033
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro)
Would this be enough for electronics enclosures and parts for, say, RC vehicles?
What are the limitations at this price point? Like size of prints? Non-smooth surfaces? Slow printing times?
I have no idea about 3dp

>>1967810
>Would this be enough for electronics enclosures and parts for, say, RC vehicles?
Probably, yes.
>What are the limitations at this price point? Like size of prints? Non-smooth surfaces? Slow printing times?
Size, it's a bit slow but that's fine (the process itself is slow), and surfaces will always be a bit rough (<0,1mm) on FDM 3D-prints.
>I have no idea about 3dp
Fix that before you buy one.

>>1967815
Thanks anon. I don't plan on making anything too big so I think I can save a bit of money then.
>Fix that ("I have no idea about 3dp") before you buy one.
I'll go through the pastebin if/when I decide I actually need a printer, and maybe watch a couple reviews. I hope that's enough.

>>1967756
why did you make it so boxy and tall?

does anyone know how to write Cura plugins? I have an idea for a plugin but I can't find much info on how to actually create plugins.

>>1967668
>doesn't want to get reamed
What are you, straight?

>>1967595
Argentino here. sudo git commit sudoku

>>1967879
If you ever figure it out, make a plugin to do this but easier.

>>1967756
That's freaking neat man! What are you planning to use for the brain? Arduino? I'm planning to build one too, only that I'll make a hitbox like controller.

>>1967953
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSgW0KoguXc

this

>>1967950
Go sink on a ship, tosser

>>1967807
These have a 4.6mm major diameter, 3.8 minor, and a 5.7mm length, though I think it's good to give them some extra depth for plastic to push into and such.

>>1967873
It's actually as thin as I can make it, the bottom of the joystick needs that much clearance. See pic. Why boxy? I don't know, I was pretty happy with the sharp front curving back. I'm making this up as I go along.

>>1967957
I've got a padhacked ds4 I'm going to put in there.

>>1967971
You smell quintesentially Achmed

>>1967755
I use one regularly at work. They're very expensive and really annoying to level and align. But they fill their niche really well. Primarily printing ABS with HIP supports.

>>1967033
Is anyone here interested in the files for 3d printed parts for a 3d milling machine I've been designing?
Just curious if there's a market or interest.
It's all flat laminar parts so your first job is supposed to be to mill its own parts in aluminium from aluminium sheets, replace the parts and pass the 3d printed parts on to a friend/someone-who-annoys-you-less-than-the-others.
Just curious whether I should continue with it...

>>1967982
Y E S

>>1967982
Well, of course. You sold me with aluminium milling, most desings on thingiverse can only do wood.

>>1967972
>padhacked ds4
Does this work with any controller? For example, could I rewire a Wii controller to make an arcade stick for the Wii U?

>>1967984
It only has a workspace of 30cm x 30cm x 30cm.
It is kinda designed like my own Prusa-copy-ish but it needs at least NEMA23s.
3dprinter NEMA17s are simply not strong enough to do more than scratch and miss steps.
>not working on it RIGHT now as I have other things to do
But I was thinking of going back to it and have many of the parts already printed for the X, Y and some of the Z axis. The surfaces run on sheets of PTFE and all the bearings are off-the-shelf 608ss bearings.
>basic design
It is somewhat like a Prusa that fell onto its back... as the workpiece moves VERTICALLY and the cutter lies flat so the chips fall off and down into a tub underneath.... like milling on the lathe. A curved acrylic shield swings down over the work stopping chips being thrown around your room.
>existing milling machines
Are just flat-bed plotters with a dremel.
At least my design can be updated later with a 4th axis.
>I spent some time on it but my uncle passed away and we used to chat about it, him being an old engineer, he had no contributions but was very encouraging and it used to cheer him up when we chatted about it
After, he died, it kinda got shelved.
2020 has been a crap year.

>>1967994
Sorry to hear that brother.

>>1967991
Sure, different controllers have different levels of difficulty to do this. A wii remote is easier than most I assume because of the expansion connector. Find something that has enough buttons for you that plugs into the port on the wiimote and open that up to start poking around.

>>1967994
>It only has a workspace of 30cm x 30cm x 30cm.
Plenty enough for assemblies and corner pieces and carriages and such!
>motors
How much torque do you think you'd need? I can find some 8kg/cm NEMA17, but it does pale in comparison with the 30.6kg/cm NEMA23s
>basic design
Do you have a diagram or pic? I don't think I follow.
>uncle
Sorry for your loss anon. I'm sure his ghost would be happy if you carried on! I lost a grandma early this year, and thinking about making her ghost happy helped me finish my degree.

>>1967994
>608ss
Sorry... that's another project.
ABEC-7ss running on steel tubing driven via T8 threaded rods connected to motors
Think "Prusa lying on its back" and you kinda have it.
>2020
It's been a bad year.
Can't wait for this 'new normal' to stabilize. I feel we aren't going back to the 'old normal' anytime soon. Got a LOT of design work and experience this year on Fusion360 but I'm still missing some of my old Inventor features.

>>1968007
>motors
Bigger equals better and I had my eye on some dual shaft models to take advantage of the feedback on the Chinese controllers I had in my watch list. So much has fallen by the wayside this year.
I will post it on Thingiverse as I haven't been on in a while and it was supposed to go on there when finished. It's NOT complete yet but it's well underway and I did get a lot of parts, scrounged and recycled and found and bought.
>give me a mo and I'll make an image using Fusion360 and get back to you.... if this bread gets archived...I'll post it anyways.
Watch this space...
anon DOES deliver, I assure you.

>>1968017
>anon DOES deliver, I assure you.
That reminds me; ABSanon once promised/threatened to post his engine bay prints. Whatever happened to him?

>>1968018
Maybe he forgot... I don't. 8)

>>1968018
The rest are individual parts so don't show the layout... this is kinda the later layout.
Blue is the motor PUSHING the tool into the work against the frame. The work is on the upright and cannot move away due to the tool always sandwiching the work between it and the other side of the loop.
Most flex comes about due to the tool pushing up from the work or the work pushing away from the tool. THIS can do neither.

>>1968030
Better view of Motor, threaded rod and Yellow(Router Motor) + back of upright bed.

>>1968030
These run on the square-cross-sectioned tube.

>>1968037
>>1968035
>>1968030
>>1968028
Brb, gonna get some sodium pills for my low pressure. All my blood went down to my hard pp.

Do you mind if I show these to a friend of mine? He works with CNC and he may be able to give you a heads-up.

>>1968042
No prob.
BTW... the kicker is the 'Big Square Ring' is made of 40mm thick Kitchen Worktop... which is EASILY available here in Europe.
Timber... because anyone can find it in dumpsters/'skips' for zero cost and it is good-enough for me.
Hope this helps.
The green-tensioner on the 'tube-runner' uses a 3dprinted 'eccentric' hole, if I recall.
Sorry... it's been a while.
It's pretty modular and could even be laser/waterjet cut if required. Lots of identical parts. It's how I was taught to design.

>>1968051

>>1967033
3D printing newfag here. Does it matter if I get a good nozzle? MicroSwiss nozzles (which I assume are of good quality?) sell for $20 each, when other sellers offer packs of ten or more for much less.

I intend on upgrading my CR-10 Max with a MicroSwiss all-metal hotend to try and print some PC, so I want to make sure the nozzles are compatible.

>>1968054
No. Get a big pack of cheap ones and you'll be fine.

>>1968054
There is a definite difference in quality between chinkshit and genuine MicroSwiss/E3D, less burrs and all that. I've got great results with the fake ones on PLA, PETG, and such - but PC has always been challenging, so I wouldn't want to hurt my chances with a bad quality nozzle. It's not impossible to do with them though.

>>1968057
>less burrs and all that
Not him, but would it be enough to try and deburr burry nozzles with a needle or something? Ever tried anything of the sort?

>>1968054
shit nozzles can make a difference, I wouldn't buy the cheapest of the cheap but wouldn't paid 20bucks for one either. whats the intention behind getting a microswiss as upgrade?

>>1968061
You're not getting a smooth surface finish with needles or anything, you need to move some material to really get a good surface finish - and then you're outta spec.

>>1968062
>>1968054
So I can get up to temp to print PC. I don't intend on printing any nice models, just industrial prototypes mostly. Precision and appearance are secondary to strength and durability, though it would be nice to have both.

>>1968054
I buy the cheapest Chinese brass (called 'copper' in China!) and they just work.
They last for ages and just work.

>>1968063
>tfw the cheap nozzle in the image ACTUALLY has a better, smaller nozzle face, a non-conical opening and thinner walls for better thermal performance
I'd STILL buy and use the cheaper nozzles after seeing this image. Strange.
The wiggly hole has zero effect and at cents each, the Chinese 'crap' is STILL the best buy and that's why I use them and have bags of them.

>>1968069
>bags of them
how often do you change them and what are the warning signs that they're due?

>>1968069
Don't misunderstand me then, I also use chinkshit nozzles at home because they're good value and I can afford to lose a print or two.
At work though, where I'm not paying for nozzles but am responsible for keeping machines running? Yeah, I'm ordering name brand stuff there. E3D is my go to, mostly tool steel because they are very wear-resistant and seem to hold up to anything forever (except CF Nylon, where they're practically a consumable).

>>1968073
>except CF Nylon, where they're practically a consumable
Do you still burn steel nozzles there or do you fall back to brass?
Also, has anybody had chinks try to pass potmetal nozzles as steel? I still have my stock brass nozzles and I'm wary about trying to upgrade.

>>1968065
>strength and durability
maybe look into getting a volcano with upgraded parts, i ordered some plated copper heater block+nozzle, a titanium throat and fitting electronics for about 25€ in total yesterday, its supposed to take toasty temps. i dont know about the max volumetric flow a microswiss can achieve, with the stock volcano i can do around 50mm/s on 1.0x0.6mm extrusions aka print big fast

>>1968077
>Do you still burn steel nozzles there or do you fall back to brass?
Tool steel still reduces wear significantly, so it's either those or ruby tipped nozzles. They're expensive, but so is printing in CF Nylon.

>>1968072
I don't... THAT'S why I still have a bag of them.
PLUS I have different nozzle HOLE SIZES.
Was supposed to be trying them out.
I replace them after about 5 or 6 1kg rolls, I suppose. The hole gets bigger and so the prints get sloppier... replace it. They cost 25c each.
ALSO if you get one that's jamming a lot... replace it.
>how often
rarely
I'm not a commercial printer. I print my own designs.

>>1968054
I have a small baggie of chinkshit nozzels, I think it was 20 for 5 dollars or some shit and they work fine.

>>1968072
>what are the warning signs that they're due?
when they clog to shit every print.

I always forget using these if they arent out, but I hate having them laying around

>>1968141
What level?

>>1968145
>What level?
on the labels, they are in burger units. The 150lb is too easy for me, the 200lb is just right and I do sets of 10 with each hand, going to up to 250 during spring i think

>>1967595
>>1967634

>>1968180
Nice chess-piece but why's that woman dragging that firewood through tar?

>>1968180
why is there a commie fuck incel in the zoroastrian 3d printing general

>>1968054
cheap nozzles can introduce variations and clogs. cheap nozzles are fine if you're a hobbyist or a poorfag and don't care about quality or dealing with problems that they might cause.

>>1968230
I blame the jannies.
Not doing they Job properly... not enough Zothar and Bildad.

>>1968141
>tfw you're spending too much time on 4chan
Must admit, when I saw the thumbnail I thought; "Are those what they look like before they transplant them onto a f2m transexual? Why does anon have FOUR of them? One for best and one for Sundays and one for casual?"
>I need to get out more...

>>1968269
the isolation is taking its toll I see

>>1967997
Thanks I'll check it out! Been looking to make one for a while.

>>1968077
>has anybody had chinks try to pass potmetal nozzles as steel?
Why would you want a steel nozzle? Wouldn't brass work better for heat transfer?

>>1968054
Just find a reputable seller. There are so many different places manufacturing these nozzles. Some come from the same factory as the overpriced E3D ones. This goes for any chinkshit product.

>>1968302
>Why would you want a steel nozzle?
Abrasive filaments like those with wood or metal shavings

Hey anons, anyone knows what to do with these imperfections?
Would maybe changing the infill pattern help? Or something else?
Also had some problems on the backside with bridging sagging (10 cm bridging is a lot apparently), that I think should be resolved by adding supports in the middle.

Printed on Prusa mk3, PLA, 0,1mm layer height, 10% infill, cubic pattern

so i got a 3d printer on black friday sale,was the
mega zero,know need to add glue stick to bed but honestly am total newfag to everything

is the printrbot play still worth it in TYOOL 2020? Some guy at work is selling his for $120 which seems like a good price? Is there anything i should know about it? Does it have some crippling failure that'll cause it to cave in on itself or something?

Hi, I already have ender 3 for over a year now and I want to try sla printing.
I was looking at the anycubic photon zero, for now and maybe buy a better one later.
Is it any good?

>>1967982
well of course I'd be interesting in piss-easy (relatively) diy milling

>>1968360
>printrbot play
>4x4x5 bed
What's the fucking point? Spend some extra and get a half decent build volume

>>1968376
is that not good? it's slightly larger than a solo cup.

>>1968360
>>1968384
Ender 3 is like +$50 and 235mm x 235mm x 250mm

>>1968385
>buying chinkshit
I'm not saying spend 1000 bucks on a prusia shitbox but at least get something that isn't built to the lowest possible cost. Monoprice makes good prusia clones, I like mine and it was like 300 bucks? Been working for like 6 years and I've never even cleaned it.

>>1968321
Forgot about those. Any of you guys have any experience with them? They worth a damn or are they just more memey than anything?

>>1968376
>look up printrbot play
>all the listings i can find for it are bare minimum $250
>4"x5"x8" build plate
why the fuck is it so expensive?

>>1968407

Just look at how it's built. Don't get all those "fancy" looks for nothing.

>>1968409
it looks like someone cobbled it together out of sheets of acrylic or some shit.

>>1968336
What filament is that?

>>1968404
The vast majority of the components come from China regardless.

>>1968336
>Printed on Prusa mk3
8-bit shitboard

>>1968404
I don't get the ender hate. I haven't really had problems with mine in a year and a half ownership except the one time I cross threaded my bowden tube adapter thing on my hot end and had to buy a new one. But that's owner/operator fault.

I have a Wanhao duplicator I3 clone and I'm going to start printing in PETG, so I figure I need an all metal hotend. Should I spend 50 fucking dollars on Microswiss or just get MIN-DONG chinashit hot end that looks the same on amazon for 10 bucks.

>>1968425
if you don't want any hassles and support, go MicroSWISS.

>>1968425
Why do you need an all metal hot end for PETG?

>>1968431
So that you don't breathe in PTFE fumes.

>>1968421
>ender hate
It's one guy with Prusa buyer's remorse

>>1968431
>Why do you need an all metal hot end for PETG?

>>1968431
You don't need AMHE for PETG

>>1968435
>You don't need AMHE for PETG
If you give two shits about your health or the health of your pets, you shouldn't be using chinkshit PTFE tubes for anything over 200C. They're of the shit quality and outgas like a fat guy after a Taco Bell lunch.

>>1968432
>>1968434
The rule of thumb I've seen everywhere is that up to 240 is fine. I print PETG at 225.

>>1968434

>>1968434
Who the fuck prints PLA at 170? I print PLA at like 210

What's an easy way to design a joint to slot two halves of a tray together?

Fair warning: I'm a retard that just got a printer and uses tinkercad, so pic unrelated

>>1968459
Download Fusion 360 and go at it.

>>1968459
>two halves of a tray together
example? pic?
anyway, now you've realized that you'll have to learn CAD to utilize your 3d printer.
I recommend FreeCAD.

>>1967262
Oh fuck what did I get myself into. I am more into engineering & design, but I have no idea how to code. I got a new hotend to print nylon and I figured I could just change them but it seems there is way more than that. I am following this guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SG56AsDdLIg

Do I really need to buy that little ISP bootloader thing just to update the firmware for my printer? Also, how do I know the wattage of my fans/unit? I was just going to follow this video since he has the same printer and everything (CR-10), but I am also real shit at soldering. I at least want to do the psu fan since it buzzes just like his.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfhc_C1oAQo

I'm going to end up spending way more money and time than I anticipated than just buying the hotend and calling it a day.

Kind of disappointed in the available designs for certain practical structures, although not surprised. Plenty of files for mounting iPhones to a Thinkpad but nothing for, say, an S9+ to an Alienware M18xR2. I knew I'd have to learn CAD eventually to make everything I wanted but I expected to find at least some things available already.

>>1968471
You have to enable boot somehow. To do that, you really need an ISP programmer or and Arduino. I recommend a $4 arduino.
Once you install the bootloader, you don't need to fuck with ISP/Arduino again.You can then just plug the USB cable in.

Another option is forego the Marlin and use Klipper.

>>1968476
What's the difference between Marlin & Klipper? Is one preferred?

>>1968467
>>1968469
Ok I'll check out some tutorials.

Basically it's a tray that's bigger than my build plate. It's more of a zen garden thing and will have some features, but that's irrelevant. I want it to be sturdy so I don't want to just glue the two halves together. I'm thinking a tongue/groove type of thing that slots vertically.

Is it possible to print parts with spring tension on PLA? For example, I want to make a wire alligator clip so I can use my frankendremel that I spent 45 minutes fucking with. Designing isn't the issue, I just want to know if the material can physically handle being squeezed (and more importantly going back to original shape)

>>1968480
Tongue and groove would work well, just make sure to put plenty of glue/epoxy on it.

All buttoned up. That's not a gap around the cover, it's where I put a chamfer in case tolerances aren't amazing and it sticks up a bit so there's not a sharp edge. I also tried to make it a hair smaller than it needed to be for the same reasons.

I printed the bottom with 3 top and 3 bottom layers, but I probably should have just done it solid. It's not as stiff as I need it to be with this many fasteners. I won't reprint my main body, but I'm going to go ahead and add provisions for one more screw at the bottom here in case anyone else ever prints it.

I need to tidy up some stuff on my padhack, but then it's simple enough to finish this up. Feels really good, the size is great for playing in your lap.

>>1968479
for Klipper you need a RasPI and it bypasses the ATmega processor alltogether..

>>1968486
what is it

>>1968482
Most materials do have a fatigue limit at any stress amplitude. Steel is one of the few exceptions, which is why we use it for springs and the like.
Yes, PLA can be made to have enough "give" to perform a function, but the lifespan won't be long. When working with PLA, it's more useful for assembling two parts that you don't plan on disassembling. It snaps in place and you're done with it. That kind of deal.

>>1968488

It's the bottom cover of my fight stick from >>1967756

>>1968486
long thumb

>>1968487
I am thinking of getting a Raspberry Pi for octoprint so I should probably just go that route

>>1968180
based

>>1968490
neato
>>1968489
oh. well, i guess i'll find some other way of making a switch/button

>>1968496
You can make most components out of PLA and then just make a leaf or coil spring with some wire or something.

What do I need in order to start printing PC out of my CR-10 Max?

>>1968494
That's the route I'm going too. I ordered the same hotend as you but mine hasn't arrived yet...

>>1968511
AMHE and the filament.

>>1967628
So apparently the reason the top looks so rough is that the nozzle got jammed. Tried printing today and nothing came out at all. Now what? Replace the nozzle?

>>1968511
>>1968513
1. What the fuck is AMHE
2. I was more referring to what modifications I would need to make.
The stock CR-10 Max only gets up to 250c for the nozzle, and the bed only goes up to 100c. Will that be enough for printing PC?

>>1968524
>>1968524
>>1968524

>>1968522
>1. What the fuck is AMHE

>>1968532
Oh, yes. I do have a MicroSwiss AMHE. But I don't think the firmware will even let me go above 250c. Is there a way to fix that?

>>1968536
Yes. You flash new FW. Which board do you have?
I already explained to anon above what's needed to do that. You basically need a $4 Arduino or an ISP programmer.
Then you basically change one #define and you're g2g

Change: #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP <default>
to:
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 285

>>1968538
I have no idea what board I have, and I am in the middle of a print which will take me at least another three hours. I'll look into that.

Other than chaning the firmware, is there anything else I'll need?

>>1968542
>Other than chaning the firmware, is there anything else I'll need?
A glue stick.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/polycarbonate/

>>1968484
Thanks for the advice. I only have CA glue on hand. I think it should be enough if I add enough joins.

>>1968514
apparently the filament tore right at the feeder. Pulled it and tried again but that thread the level way off again.

>>1968547
make a model in FreeCAD and use this method (you don't have to make dovetails "3D"... just make the cuts planar)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERc7VPF8ofM

>>1968361
Don't get the zero, it's for people who want to be *complete* cheapasses and you'll suffer for it. Get at least the original (not S) Photon if you're looking into them.

>>1968549
getting real fucking tired

Thoughts?


New paradigm?

>>1968361
>>1968574
I almost bought one too. It was only $99 on Black Friday.

>>1968575
Did you move the Z stop down like I told you? If you don't get those springs tighter you will be leveling your bed every ten minutes.

>>1968600
It only moves so far without having to cut into the bracket but I moved it down as far as I could. I also tried turning the Z axis screw on the right side to lower it relative to the left but that didn't seem to help. I will try turning that side much more down tomorrow. Right now I've loosened all the bed screws to allow the springs to stretch a bit overnight. I also suspect my bed might be slightly concave. I will print things on the front left corner only until this is resolved fully so I actually get some use out of it in the meantime.

>>1968608
Cut the bracket. I had to do the same thing on my ender 3 to even get the nozzle to touch the bed. The springs will not "stretch" just by taking compression off of them.

>>1968609
alright thanks. The other thing with loosening them all is to remind myself to level in a different order this time. But also the right side is legitimately 3mm higher than the left at least so I'm also going to fix that.

>>1968586
Fuck off Timaz

>>1968608
Have you checked if the frame is square?

>>1968404
>1000 bucks

>>1968613
not quantitatively but eyeballing it the only thing out of whack is the x axis arm.

>>1968616
Get yourself a proper square, anon. I myself have a steel ruler and a square in my short list. Single degrees here and there can add up.

>>1968415
Prusament PLA

>>1968480
Yeah you just need to figure out what clearance you printer requires, then set the right clearance when modeling and you're good

Is there a way to stain transparent PLA with permanent ink?

>>1968751
You mean uniformly? Or like an ink wash?

>>1968751
rit dye?

>>1968825
>>1968832
Yeah, uniformly. Like a dip in for a few seconds and let it dry. I think the xylene might help it bond to the plastic?

>rit dye?
Never heard of it before. Is it strong?

What do you think about the creality SLA printer?
Currently $169 for the LD002R with the code 'ZP2R124' on creality3dofficial.
Or better get an Elogoo or Anycubic SLA printer?

>>1968840
Just get whatever has the largest build volume

I finally feel skilled enough to make something complicated so I'm working on a whetstone holder for the DMT diasharp 6"x2" diamond stones
They're aren't to scale to each other obviously. I'm printing 2 of each part and the flattened 1/2-12 screws will be glued into one of the main end blocks for those who have seen a working whetstone holder

>>1968853
I'll post a shot in a few days when everything is printed. I need to buy some gluestick for my print bed as mine has disappeared.

>>1968832
>>1968837
>rit dye?

Just looked it up and found one that can dye polyester. Sounds like it could work for PLA too. Might order some and see how it goes.

>>1968860
The polyester rit dye is sold at most joann fabric stores ( I used to work there) Id love to see some dye experiments on 3d prints

>>1968860
>>1968861
If this works, then all you need is white and clear filament unless you want multi color prints.

>>1968860
Won't work with rit dye. It has to be boiled in order to dye the plastic.

So my boss handed me a a Creality LD-002H resin printer and told me to make it go so we can prototype parts for the products we sell. I mentioned in my interview three years ago that I knew my way around an FDM setup and now that has apparently come to fruition. Being the good little wagie that I am I want to do an interesting first print, primarily, an illuminated pedestal version of our logo. Pic related, black base with a clear uprights, into the base of which I will drill and mount some LEDs to illuminate the uprights (pedestal is hollow to contain batteries etc, AAA's included for scale reference)

The Internets is telling me switching resin colour mid job can be a thing, but there is a lot of conflicting info around whether cure times need to me adjusted, how readily the resins will bond etc. Has anyone had experience with this, and am I pissing in the breeze expecting the 11.5 x 9mm surface between the bottom of the clear and black base to have any type of structural integrity given the smallish mating footprint? (especially considering I will be drilling a 2.5mm hole up the middle that junction once printed, further reducing the mated surface area)?

Is there any reason to shell out for the 3Doodler Create+ over pic related?

>>1968878
Damn you can inhale ABS straight to your face with that thing

>>1968885
You really have no idea what thermoplastics are, do you?

anyone made any VESA articulated monitor mounts? How strong are they really?

>>1968888
Keep huffing ABS senpai

>>1968896

>>1968872
Why not just design the thing in seperate parts so they can be printed seperately?

How many prints until you became confident enough to just let it run unattended for 4+ hours at a time? Do you ever print several models on the same plate at the same time to minimize downtime?

>>1968929
>How many prints
About 2.

And try a 3 day long print.

>>1968929
Depends on how much you trust your printer.
I was dumb enough to start 3dp with a delta, i wouldnt trust that with 1 hours alone not even mention 4h+
After i had a couple of prints with my CR10 then i ran 24h+ prints no worries. It was on the ground tho, nothing flammable around.
I stack my printers on corrugated steel shelves so i have no worries about fire.

If seams, stringing, uneven layer times are not a problem yes i stack them together on one plate. Sometimes i resort to sequential printing.

>>1968929
It took about 5 or 6 prints with zero issues before I could just hit print and leave.
Getting to the stage where I could produce prints with zero issues was the big time sink though. I spent many hours fiddling with all the components and even converted my Ender 3 to direct drive.
Now it prints very reliably and I can trust it with jobs that take over 24h.
Material choice is also a big deal here, with PLA I can hit print and come back later to collect the print. PETG requires a bit of attention at the start so it doesn't form blobs here and there.
With ABS I check in on it every couple of hours. It's the most demanding material to print because both the nozzle and the bed are very hot, and with such high power draws I do want to keep an eye on it, especially because it's in a room full of flammables.

>filament comes off hot end
>Snaps back around spool
>Start 10 hour print
>Notice halfway though the filament crossed under itself
>Have to manually feed the printer for 6 hours
I should have just let it fail.

This is my first time printing on glass anon bros and I've never seen this before pic related. Is the nozzle too close? Too far? The filament is kind of old but was printing fine yesterday.

A tad bit close

>>1968872
DIFFUSE THE LEDs.

Make sure you put at least like a layer of white PLA between them and the clear blocks, otherwise it'll look kind of like shit with the light not looking like you'd expect. Do some test prints. Hell, do several.

>>1968922
Also, this, will be much less of a pain, don't bite off more than you can chew for your first print.

>>1969034
On the bright side, you didn't hang yourself in the process.

>>1969047
Looks a bit close.

>>1969051
>>1969057
really? i just did the paper test and it actually feels a bit loose? there's a very slight drag on it? do you need to be further away when printing on glass vs blue tape?

>>1969058
Paper isn't too accurate, try a 0.10mm feeler gauge instead. Or just level by eye.

>>1969058
Yeah, for me I always set it to the "just loose" side of the paper gauge

>>1969060
>>1969062
Yep. You guys were right. Turned the screws about 1/6th of a turn down and problem is almost completely gone. Thanks anon bros.

>>1967244
>Slic3r
The last official version is from 2018. Slic3r is dead.

>>1969089
PrusaSlicer, which is based on Slic3r, is the most advanced slicer right now. They have more features than anyone. Including 3D paint supports.

>>1967595
Based, I hate faggots as well.

>>1969094
>PrusaSlicer
Lol, turn on all the settings in Cura and there is more to tune than you can comprehend.
Prusa is gay and that´s for a reason.

>>1969170
>Cura
too bad it's garbage and after all these years, it's still shit.

>>1969177
At least Cura has working tree supports

>>1969189
Rekt

>>1969189
>he needs tree supports for his builds
How does it feel to be a shitter?

>>1969189
UNfortunately, you can't tell it here to go.

>>1969206
I can tell where it can't go which is all I need. Also working tree supports don't need direct vertical, they can reach in from the side, and it can mean extreme side, meaning less surface needing cleanup

Can anyone recommend a hot end upgrade for a mk10 extruder? Aka Flashforge, replicator 1 (i believe)?

Ive got a qidi tech 1 thats been a great little bot, use it to print abs lately. I really want to justify switching to a copperhead, but im wondering if a bimetal mk10 heatbreak is available/would have the same effect.

Currently, it has a ptfe heatbreak.

Any links to reading/videos would be great too.

>>1969094
I've tried prusa for about a month after i ran into limitations in cura, fiddled with every expert setting there is and so far my ranking is:
cura > fusion360 > prusa
especially horrible are supports in prusa, they are a pain to remove
>>1968929
basically since I added a filament drybox and a abl sensor to it, it just works.

>>1969239
If you think Fusion 360's slicer is better than Prusaslicer, you're definitely doing something wrong somewhere.

>>1969239
>cura > fusion360 > prusa
100% retarded

>>1969239
s'all bout simplify 3d

>>1969213
https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/makerbot-replicator-1/products/copy-of-thermal-tube-upgrade-for-makerbot-replicator-1-2

I keep getting tiny little shifts in the x axis. Never happened to me before this print.

Is it the X axis motor losing steps?

Pic related. Funny thing is it's like it lost a step in one direction and then lost a second step in the opposite direction. Basically fixing itself.

Ender 3 with wall printing speed at 50mm/s with PETG

>>1969313
check your eccentric nuts. see if all of the wheels on the side of the X-axis carriage are contacting rails.

>>1968751
>>1968832
Been looking this up more and people have successfully used rit dye on nylon and sharpie ink.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9i467h-vcvA

>>1968575
Use a layer of glue from a gluestick. Honestly that's the only surefire way to get adhesion on my cr10 v2, and I even have abl.

>>1968922
That's my fallback position, I just wan't sure if what I propose would work.

>>1969054
I have made machined acrylic blocks before with just diffused lens LEDs, I'm not concerned about light spread.

So can anyone tell me if that bond area will be too small at 11.5 x 9mm or has no one tried anything like this?

Ender 5 Plus user here

How expensive do you reckon it would be to maintain a hotbed of 90 C for the duration of a print (20-25 hours ish)? It's the only way my PETG will stick. Am I blowing money?

>>1969388
> get device power rating in watts
> convert to kw/h
> multiply this against the kw/h rate you pay for your electricity
> ???
> fucked if we know, work it out yourself.

>>1969395
Sorry for appearing lazy, what is the interpretation when the rating is 450+ Watts? I was going to calculate it myself earlier but I don't know how the wattage changes with different operating modes.

>>1969372
the root of my problem is that the right side of my x axis gantry is jacked up 3mm higher than the left making leveling impossible. I can bandaid the adhesion with glue but models will still come out half crooked if I can't fix it, which I can't seem to do. However searching for a solution reinforced my hatred of reddit, which was nice. "leveling your bed doesn't mean you have to match earth level, just the nozzle level even if it's a little crooked." WOW so what if it's crooked beyond the adjustment tolerance of the bed leveling system?

>>1969388
Yes, you are.
PETG should have no problems sticking to your bed at 80C. PETG is very sticky and will stick to just about anything, although it does like to stick to nozzles more than to beds. Also at that temp you'd suffer significant deformation of your first layers.
What temperature are you printing it at?

>>1969401
presumably the power usage drops off some once it reaches temperature, but you can always build an enclosure to improve the duty cycle

>>1969494
80 C now, 150 C for nozzle

>>1969498
>150 C for nozzle
Anon, I...
You need at least 210.
I like to use 245 for the first layer and 240 for the rest and that sticks like a bitch, I end up having a hard time removing my prints from the bed. That's how well it sticks.

>>1969490
Perhaps you can place a prop 3mm below the right side to support it, take out the rod, drop the height of the right side to the supporting block, and put the screw back in? You'll probably need to loosen your wheels too, but try it without doing that first.

>>1969401
Calculate against the maximum possible power draw of the device.

>>1969490
Maybe try making the gantry square if you know it's not instead of sperging around on the internet?

>>1969490
Disassemble and then reassemble it properly.
This is why you don't half-ass stuff. You end up having to do more work in the long run.

>>1969490
you know you can just turn the stepper by hand to square it up. I had to do that on my cr10-s.

>>1967033
new thread plox

>>1967033
How much potential does 3d printing technology have on our economies/industries? Can it reshape global supply chains?

>>1969713
Right now in the metals space it lacks precision due to the nature of the methods used. Even with plastics SLA/DLP resin printing is the only one that matches the accuracy of injection moulding but has its own issues of having low impact strength (some resins have very strong tensile modulus though). It's a very slow process, and unless you do it at scale you'll get very low throughput.
Any major manufacturing will still be done traditionally. It's good for if you want to reduce risk in an initial product release so you don't waste 20k on tooling that had a flawed design or if you want to get to market first with low volume.

>>1969713
Higher cost per unit, but no longer being tied to "one size fits all" products. You can also produce the exact number of units that the market actually wants. Then there's the ability to very quickly iterate on designs. Making a 200k injection mold only to find out that there's a design defect that requires an entirely new mold is catastrophic.

>>1969505
Lmao sorry I meant 250C

Tripod as a spool holder.

I was going to throw the thing out and it came to me.

This time with the photo upright.

>>1969804
Good idea

>>1969313
>Ender 3
Sry senpai that's normal operation for shitty roller based printers

New thread when

SOMEONE MAKE THE NEW THREAD OMG

>>1969902
>>1969899
>>1969688
chill out faggot, it's not even on page 5 yet

>>1969941
We're on page 8.

>>1969506
>>1969545
>>1969519
I'm going to have to take the whole arm off and put it back on I think. The first half of this video does not work for me at all. At 1:03 I can't seem to get the wheels to free spin so both sides move together and nothing actually gets leveled.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ze3lsljSnVs

>>1969687
Of course I tried that but both sides move together or they store tensions if I force them to move separately which gets settled out next time it moved under power and the offset doesn't actually change.

It's annoying that you have to disassemble the part that was preassembled because it's just built wrong. I already had to build part of the thing so why not just not prebuild that part wrong in the first place so I canl do it right?

>>1969969
Products from China, more often than not, are a bit of a lottery.

>>1969946
So? It's not page 10

>making a custom pic for every new thread
this is why nobody ever wants to start a new one.

>>1970148
making the thread pic is pretty fun

Behold, under-cabinet kitchen hooks

>>1970163
>combining scripting with CAD
holy fucking shit anon what the hell is that abomination of a program?

>>1970168
How new are you?

>>1970168
My dear newfriend, that is the OpenSCAD mentioned in the OP

>>1970168
OpenSCAD.
If you're a code autist then that's your go to CAD program.

Finally just set up my CR10v2, and have one of the demo prints running. Planning some build files to try and am used to doing resin printing. Am I better off doing multiple parts in runs of 1 each, or can I safely do 5+ different small models at once without worrying about layers cooling down too much?

not guy right above, also just got my cr-10 v2. my first print is looking good at 80%. on of the prints I want to do is this bowl (pic related) the creality slicer is saying this fucker will take 5 hours on fast mode. it's 61 grams, does that sound right? it seems really fucking long for such a simple bowl.

>>1970198
Every time it enters or exits the outer surface of a part, you risk a snag.
The center of the build plate is also going to be the most accurate part of your plate, so try to center things as much as reasonably possible.
Depending on what you're printing (both model and material), you might even have let the layer cool down before the next layer gets extruded.

>>1970200
Welcome to 3D printing. It's only considered fast by comparison to making one-off parts via machining.

>>1970205
Yeah my concern is the cooling between layers. The potential for snagging and stringing between various parts is a legit concern as well. I mostly got it so I can print larger objects and more durable parts than my elegoop, so I won't necessairly be making tons of small part at once but making say 4 brackets at the same time instead of one at a time would be nice.

Simpler stuff like that I probably wouldn't care as much mess wise though so it may be okay.

>>1970207
how much of a difference in quality is there between fast and high quality?

>>1970212
You'll need to print some test parts to dial in your printer anyway, so just print up a test cube at .2 and then do one of the all-in-one tests at .12 or something. You'll need to actually feel/see the difference IRL.

>>1970211
Start with PLA. It's easily the most forgiving material and it's dirt cheap, so if you end up tossing a few parts into your scrap/support container, it won't be too big of a deal.

>>1969969
Are you saying even after loosening the eccentric nut it won't spin freely?

>>1969969
>I already had to build part of the thing so why not just not prebuild that part wrong in the first place so I canl do it right?
For chinks, it's a badge of honour to do something wrong even if it's more difficult than making it right. Or even especially so.

New Thread
>>1970232

>>1968574
Thanks for your answer, I guess I'll juste wait a get a photon

>>1969713
It already has. There's 3D printed parts being used in the aerospace industry, e.g. to cut down on the number of parts in assemblies or make parts lighter.