/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I'll repost it:
So I snapped a lead on my hotend heat element due to accidental rough handling so I ordered a new one from the same company (e3d) with the same specs as the last one but this new one is very weak, thermal runaway from having the parts cooling fan on full blast, what might be the cause? is it possible that the screws in the terminal aren't properly tightened leading to a large amount of resistance and not much power going through?

>>1965065
I was a dumbass and posted this in the last thread but I think it bears repeating

>>>1964957 #
If it's anything like a glass/hdpe/ldpe mix then it melts to your skin and you scream and thrash violently as you look for a water source to cool it down.

Then, when you get to the burn ward they have to cut out the plastic, which is easy, because the skin essentially bubbles and sloughs off because of the 3rd degree burns you have received, after that comes the skin grafts, possible plastic surgery, and recovery.

Trust me it's not pretty, and you should always wear a face shield around industrial extruders when they purge and change dies.

>>1965070
do you have the thermocouple mounted firmly? i usually ziptie my thermocouple to the heater, i always have to remember to separate them if i replace one or the other. make sure it's in the hole and clamped if you have a screw clamp for it.

>>1965092
Yeah the thermistor has a screw.

>three threads active at once
THIS is why you shouldn't make a thread until you're on at least page 9. The oldest thread isn't even on page 10 yet and you're already jumping ship, for christ's sake.

>>1965103
>autism

>>1965103
bump lim is 310; everyone should know not to post in the others after they hit that point. how in the hell did it get to >400?

>>1964805
>right now I'm more interested in the prints themselves than on knowing the ins and outs of how to tune the slicing.
Hey, that's a fair point. Problem is that if you don't know the slicer, you will never get good prints just by using the defaults. Not to mention that you will never push your machine to the limit. I've most of the limits of my printer and I now know what it's capable of and I can use it to its maximum potential. I can now print at 200mm/s and my prints come out better than defaults at 50mm/s and in less than 1/2 the time.
>>1964823
>Could you recommend a decent slicer in leu of cura?
I've been trying them all out for some time and I can tell you that none of them are perfect. I couldn't pick the best one. You have to try a bunch and see what each individual slicer's strengths are. I've been using PrusaSlicer and Slic3r lately because they don't prevent you to try things and they don't modify the G-code behind your back. IdeaMaker and S3D are also worth using and learning. S3D makes a bunch of things super-easy and has some unique features that are impossible with other slicer. KISSlicer has an awesome tuning wizard. Mattercontrol has some awesome material templates.
Go try a bunch and see what works for you.

>>1965124
>Problem is that if you don't know the slicer, you will never get good prints just by using the defaults.
Unless of course you buy a machine with presets already tuned to perfection by the manufacturer...

>>1965014
>>1964929
Local retard from the last thread here just wanted to say big thank again for the help after resetting my slicer settings I got some nice crispy boys rather than the abominations I was pumping out earlier

>>1965125
Well, that's true but even then you gotta push it to its limits to understand what the tool can do for you and whether you need to improve it in any way. Manufacturers are always conservative with their parameters.

I'm about to print the same bust that this anon >>1961911 printed and I'm wondering if I need to use the "bra" or can this be printed without supports?

>>1965166
I'd say it looks okay for PLA, it is in the 45-50° region, PLA is good for up to 65-70°

>My potato made the OP
Nice

>>1965166
Print an overhang test first to find out how much you can print without support.
I've managed 70+ degrees before, but I generally use supports at 60 degrees and up.

>>1965203
/3dpg/ is such low quality and low effort, even a benchy will make the OP

>>1965228
So post something?

>>1965203
There's no potato in the OP

>>1965250
That style of ocarina is commonly called a "sweet potato" ocarina.

>>1965124
>you will never get good prints just by using the defaults
Not true, stock cura ender profile gives very good results. (If you setup your printer correctly)

>can now print at 200mm/s and my prints come out better than defaults at 50mm/s
Nice dick flashing. Can you backup your claim by any means?

>You have to try a bunch and see what each individual slicer's strengths
Or you just use Cura. I'm suprised how much time people are willing to waste on their print settings.

>>1965244
I'm working, printing is just a hobby. I have a few on the to do list until xmas though, including painting, which will be interesting since I'm crap and never painted anything smaller than a room with single color

>>1965103
>I make the rules
It's somehow our fault that the rest of the board is low?

>>1965228
>benchy edition has benchies in the OP
imagine

>>1965110
threads are getting pretty active

>>1965268
A lot more people at home to babysit their printers.

>>1965261
Nice blog retard. Now stop complaining.

hey, 3d printing noob here
when modeling holes for threaded inserts, what diameter do you use?
I dont have the inserts on hand right now, but I know the screws are going to be M4, so right now I modeled some 6mm wide cylindrical holes
Ignore the bigger hole

>>1965309
really depends on the inserts, they arn't really standard, and also the tolerances of your printer, which could have the printed hole be slightly smaller or larger than modeled, which also depends on which axis the hole face is on

>>1965285
getting some really negative vibes from you anon
you should do some meditating

>>1965228
>/3dpg/ is such low quality and low effort
you say this like someone gets paid to make these threads

>>1965144
Congrats anon!
>>1965065
I made it to the collage and thread name again, I''m so flattered :3

>>1965309
You have to have them onhand and will need to do some tolerancing test prints to get the fit you want.
I have been using normal female hex standoffs and eventually determined that the sockets for those needed to be tapered for consistent printability. I use cross-driven screw to retain them so they can't back out of the printed sockets after installation.

I'm gonna do it. I'm gonna print a half naked bowsette. The only question is how large? I could in theory print the parts so the final model is over 12" tall.

>>1965336
Anatomically correct size.

>>1965366
If I print it life size I can use flexible filament and pretend it's a real person.

>>1965378
Or you use it to cast out of food grade silicone.

>>1963408
Hey anon, what direct drive mount did you use?
Other anons using direct drive on Ender 3 or compatible also pls respond

>PETG stringing issues out the ass
>prints delaminating from bed out of nowhere and warping to shit at the bottom
>can't even attempt tall, thin prints because they always warp, crash into the nozzle, and completely delaminate from the bed

>completely clean glass bed until it's sparkling new again
>replace nozzle with sparkling new one
>relevel bed with piece of paper
>turn on combing in cura
>turn retraction back to normal because it was causing priming issues with the extended retraction
>up bed temp to 75C
>up nozzle temp to 250C
>still getting little boogers on my first few layers

Time will tell if any of these things actually helped. My last hope is to change out my roll of PETG with a brand new, shrink wrapped one. I've had a space heater aimed at my printer overnight in the hopes it'll dry out the roll somewhat if that's even the issue. I so don't want to build an enclosure for my filament.

I JUST WANT TO PRINT AGAIN REEEEE! WHY DOES PETG HAVE TO BE SO PICKY

>>1965445
Post pic of your hotend assembly

>>1965445
>>prints delaminating from bed out of nowhere and warping to shit at the bottom
>>can't even attempt tall, thin prints because they always warp, crash into the nozzle, and completely delaminate from the bed
That sounds like you're printing with cooling and/or the bed is not hot enough.
I use 85C for the bed when I'm printing PETG and I end up struggling to remove the prints. That's just how well they adhere.

>>1965444
Trips demand an answer desu
>>1965445
>I so don't want to build an enclosure for my filament
What's your average ambient humidity? It may be your only option. I'm from Buenos Aires (and I say, kill'em all!) and the only thing stopping me from getting a giant airtight tupper is my fucking schedule.

>>1965449
Spamanon here, I started printing PETG a few days ago and I don't have problems with a 70°C bed. Sticks just a bit on the tight side of right actually. But maybe it can vary on his filament?
>>1965445
What brand of PETG are you using? Did this start happen recently, having previously had successful prints?

>>1965452
>Did this start happen recently
Yes. Seems to have gotten worse. It's a relatively new roll with only a few prints on it so I'm inclined to think humidity is the problem. The only other variable that has changed is the outside temp, and the room my printer is in isn't a main room with good heating, hence why I put a space heater in there.

Atleast combing has helped immensely with hiding the stringing. It's still there but just encapsulated within the part, thank god.

>>1965449
>85C bed
you dont have elephants foot issues?

>>1965458
>first layer horizontal expansion = -0.1mm
>first layer flow = 95%
It's fucking magic.

>>1965065
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=9248174

Please put this link in the OP under the CAD software section. The discussion is about the current limitations and the future of scripting CADs like OpenSCAD. They think the main issue is the lack of a way to define and solve systems of constraints. They also point out a limitation of the constraint solver in FreeCAD (as of 2015, but they were working on it so it might be fixed now?).

The lack of a constraint solver in scripting CADs mean neither that one cannot put constrains nor that there aren't cases where scripting is superior. Constraints are dealt with "manually" by whatever the user writes in the script. This means more work, but also freedom to build any type of constraints. For relatively simple models there isn't much extra work. For complicated models with many parts or sophisticated geometry this means you have to do big or hard calculations inside the script. This despite that the geometry is already is calculated and represented by the engine. There's a lack of flow of information back from the engine to the user. This is something which the GUI of a conventional CAD software is able to partially bridge (this includes FreeCAD).

>>1965445
Even brand new PETG spools I've used in the past have had humidity issues. If it's some chinese brand, I almost always now dry it out in the oven before use.

>>1965454
>>Did this start happen recently
>Yes. Seems to have gotten worse.
Sounds like humidity. I keep my PETG in its resealable bag while I'm not using it. Have you tried baking your roll?
Room temperature shouldn't be a problem for bed adhesion; it could be a problem further up but you could enable draft shield, which captures the air around the print and builds a de-facto enclosure.

>>1965461
>HN
no one should be linking directly to that shithole
https://archive.is/Vybbc

>>1965464
I'll look into drying it in the oven. Thanks anon.

Just gotta pick up an oven thermometer

>>1965461
>HackerJews trying to solve everything with more FP
That's really not noteworthy in anyway.

>>1965461
>joining CAD with scripting
>joining CAD with fucking haskell of all things
y tho? I've never had an issue just using the GUI in more conventional CAD programs.

>>1965467
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632378

>>1965466
What's wrong about it? Quality discussion in this thread I found.
>>1965468
>>1965478
Please read my post and the thread I linked before you come with knee jerk reactions.

>>1965478
because autists who learn haskell want to do everything with fucking haskell. if they could, they would jack off in fucking haskell.

how the hell am i supposed to use support with petg? if i set z-distance to 0-0.1mm, the support are impossible to remove. if i set it 0.2 or over, there's not much support and the following 4-5 layers are fucked up (the print manages to fix itself after that). is there any trick im missing? at the moment im just compensating the fucked up layers in my design and to a fuckload of sanding on the supported layers, but this is getting tiresome.

I have asked in other places/threads and been summarily ignored so I'll try here:

How the fuck do I do an edge-defined cut in Fusion 360? Shell is almost what I want but I can't define depth with it because it sets it the same thickness as the edges.
I could brute-force it with a manually-defined shape joined as a cut but I bet there's a "work smarter not harder" solution I don't know about.

>>1965485
>knee jerk reactions
>asking a simple question
You seem overly defensive about this

>>1965494
How about you articulate your question more and post some screenshots.

Hardly anyone knows what the fuck youre on about.

Is cured SLA Resin too toxic to come into indirect contact with any food?

I was thinking I could apply what is shown in the video to a custom figure (cleaned, cured, polished and cleaned again) printed using a Photon. Is there any detail I should be worried about health-wise? Anything I can do to make it safe?

>>1965511
If I shell it, I end up with something that has a depth that's more than I want.
I don't want it to be like (1), I want it to be like (2)

>>1965526
seal it with a foodsafe coat of shellac

>>1965530
Why not just either extrude the bottom or make your part with a couple of sketches? I never had good luck with using those types of tools in fusion. You always have more control over the part using sketches.

Ok faggots, some buddies were complaining about how expensive duck hunting decoys were. I have an ender 3 pro and was wandering how feasible it would be to create duck decoys for a cheaper price. Any ideas?

>>1965547
3d print a duck then you don't have to hunt one

>>1965494
>How the fuck do I do an edge-defined cut in Fusion 360?
I'm not sure what you mean by this. You can draw a sketch on a plane at the end of an edge, then use the sweep function. You then define the path of the sweep by the edges (or sketch) you want it to follow.

>>1965530
>If I shell it, I end up with something that has a depth that's more than I want.
Then draw a sketch from the bottom of the part and positively extrude up to the depth you wanted. Or you change the shell function to multi-depth (if available) and you set and alternate thickness for that one specific side of the shell.

Having an issue with a BTT V1.4 TURBO board, any help would be appreciated. None of the steppers will actually move, they only will hum when told to move. Power supply is good, and the stepper drivers are set in the Marlin config. Any ideas?

nice eh? Unfortunately I didn't check my slicer settings properly and had supports on.. everywhere... The force required to remove the 60mm hex inserts broke the piece apart. Going to reprint it tomorrow and hopefully not fuck up again. Going to lower the socket by 3mm so it sits a bit lower, and heavily considering expanding the length by 12mm as defined by the pegboard pitch to have a bit more margin between the bits

My new extruder just arrived... ordered it on 11/11... I'm impressed how fast it got here from china. It's so fucking small too... everything looks much bigger on the screen.

>>1965565
>everything looks much bigger on the screen.
please allow 1mm to 3cm difference as to measured by hand thank you

>>1965567
kek
that one always gets me.
another disclaimer they use is for color... "please allow differences in color due to screen differences".
all these sellers cover their liability issues with these bullshit statements.

>>1965568
Don trus Chayna, Chayna is asshoe
>>1965564
F anon, but very nice indeed!

>>1965564
Always have grid or lines supports checked in cura even if youre not using them. Theyre the easiest to remove if you did accidentally leave supports checked.

They do look pretty asthetic though. Good job on the design.

>>1965065
Are there resin printers that you can use indoors? I want to get one but I can't really vent for it.

>>1965596
Elegoo Mars Pro (and some others) comes with a carbon filter built in. You can retrofit others with an external mod that you can print yourself.

Guys I...

>>1965601
owo?

>>1965601
anon, do we need to discuss the bacteria that can hide in the seams?

>>1965601
just make sure to use a condom with it.

>>1965110
People like to 3d print. Not that surprising lol

>>1965601
is that a plunger for your blender/food processor?

>>1965564
looks pretty good. maybe try a different print orientation?

>>1965629
Yeah, except for the exhaust end.

>>1965636
what do you mean by exhaust end

>>1965637
His food procesor's trash shoot?

>>1965637
the gastrointestinal system processes food.
it's a butt dildo

>>1965638
food processors don't have a trash chute. you have the tube in the lid where you can dump food in, then it just stays in there to get chopped up or whatever

>>1965639
couldn't be. not shaped like a dick and way too big. also that looks like hard filament

>>1965526
Clean whatever touches it thoroughly with IPA and other food-safe cleaners, and you should be good to go. It shouldn't leach in if it's not making prolonged contact or if it's been cured properly.

>>1965633
Nah, laying on the side is just fine, I did an overhang test for the hex and it works great, I just mistakenly let supports be on and it flood filled the bit recesses making it near impossible to remove without shearing the frame. Although a standing orientation would have resisted it better, but its not supposed to take that kind of forces anyway

>>1965639
no, that's an onahole, retard.

>>1965640
>food processors don't have a trash chute
we all have one anon

Let us rejoice, my brethren, for my calipers have returned!

>>1965568
>color due to screen differences
That's not actually bullshit though. Professionals spend multiple thousands on getting a properly calibrated display

>>1965654
nice.
it's impossible to 3d print properly without calipers or a mike.
how much did you spend?

>>1965599
>carbon filter
Does that really work? Last time I saw this come up someone mentioned that the toxic fumes still linger and only the smell is being filtered.

>>1965657
no, you don't understand... they use this defense when you order a black part and they send you a pink one.

>>1965658
>Does that really work? Last time I saw this come up someone mentioned that the toxic fumes still linger and only the smell is being filtered.
Read/watch the reviews. It does work. It totally eliminates TVOCs. You can also easily refresh the filter ever few months with carbon pellets from the aquarium supply stores... for $5.

>leave the house for a few hours
>come back to this
WHY DO YOU DO THIS, PETG?

>>1965661
Hey that's awesome. I think I might pick one up once the 4K screens become more common.

>>1965662
Room too cold?

>>1965657
It's some shitty brandless caliper from the ironmonger around the corner. I can't remember how much I spent, and it wouldn't make sense anyway because my shithole has constant inflation and devaluation.

>>1965662
>no glue stick
that's your 1st prob anon
it clearly lifted itself off and that caused subsequent layer shifts.

>>1965665
>constant inflation and devaluation
where are you? Brazil?

>>1965668
Even worse, Argentina

>>1965658
The elegoo one is shit, seems to be just a rough carbon lattice rather than an actual filter.

>>1965656
no, you don't understand... they use this defense when you order a black part and they send you a pink one.

>>1965672
I know what you mean, but color differences between displays is a real thing.

>>1965669
Hola.
>>1965674
sure, but that's not why they use that disclaimer.

>>1965675
>sure, but that's not why they use that disclaimer
If you think they're trying to scam you all the time then why keep buying from them?

>>1965676
>If you think they're trying to scam you all the time then why keep buying from them?
because on a whole, you do come ahead. actually, way, way ahead.
you're getting scammed even worse by the middlemen who sell on <YOUR COUNTRY's> sites.

>>1965675
>Hola
e ameo
>>1965678
>you're getting scammed even worse by the middlemen who sell on <YOUR COUNTRY's> sites.
>mfw my local govt imposes an USD200 per person non-transferrable cap on imports if you're not a registered importer, and charges 120% taxes on that in the form of a duplicate compound 35% bullshit "exchange" tax and 21% VAT
>mfw i have no face

>>1965662
>go to put new roll of PETG filament on
>accidentally grab identical looking roll of ABS
>only notice the label when I have it on the printer ready to feed the new filament into the extruder
>look at old roll that was on there
>it is also an identical looking roll of ABS
>multiple days of printing fucked because I have identical rolls of ABS and PETG sitting next to each other and I can't be fucked to organize my shit better

OH.

WELL THAT FUCKING EXPLAINS A FEW THINGS.

>>1965681
Pat pat, anon

>>1965684
in other news I've discovered that hair spray is a decent adhesive to use for ABS if your print doesn't have any sharp corners.

>>1965687
Have you tried a brim for that? It can help make sharp corners behave more smoothly; it has helped me with curling in PETG and PLA. I haven't tried ABS yet.
Also, have you tried draft shields?

>>1965678
>you're getting scammed even worse by the middlemen
Now you get the point.

>>1965679
>>mfw my local govt imposes an USD200 per person non-transferrable cap on imports if you're not a registered importer, and charges 120% taxes on that in the form of a duplicate compound 35% bullshit "exchange" tax and 21% VAT
jfc... you're getting fucked.
>>1965693
we don't really have many options:

Option 1: buy some "gucci" brand that claims to be "original". 90%+ of it is made in China even though it claims to be made in US/Can/UK/Germany/etc
Option 2: Buy chinkshit from Amazon/Walmart/CustomShopSite. 100% made in china, Comes with 20%+ markup and domestic taxes. Shipping is quick but you end up paying for it. Sometimes the shipping costs as much or more than the item itself.
Option 3: Buy directly from china at (almost) factory prices. No taxes. No or minimal shipping cost. You can get fucked and it can take 2 months to arrive.

So pick your poison.

>>1965699
>jfc... you're getting fucked.
ikr

please share dildos deposit models
i need dildos

>>1965699
It's pretty much the same everywhere except the additional "domestically made" scam. Where they import parts from China and have it assembled by illegals in the US. Or they massively over engineer a product and try to charge out the ass for it as an upscale product, like Juicero.

>>1965715
>It's pretty much the same everywhere except the additional "domestically made" scam

>>1965715
>and have it assembled by illegals in the US. Or they massively over engineer a product and try to charge out the ass for it as an upscale product, like Juicero.
100% this.
this label is the biggest scam ever. it's literally chinkshit wrapped in some carboard box made in the US... by illegals.

>>1965714
nigga i am not going to send dildo files. make them yourself. use blender so it's easier to make the dickveins and shit and then scale it to your blown out fag asshole. custom manufacturing and whatnot

>>1965714
Who has the dragon dildo?

>>1965749
please for the love of god, if you need dildos just model them yourself. if you're mature enough to need a dildo you're mature enough to put the time into modeling it

>>1965681
I was just about to call you out on that failed print to tell you that shit looks like my first ABS prints. Guess I was right on the money then.

>>1965768
Mate, I asked for _the_ dragon dildo, not _a_ dragon dildo

>>1965780
>_the_
what? does it matter if it's specific? it's going in your ass, you won't be able to tell the difference.

>>1965641
>way too big
You'd be surprised what can fit in a well trained butthole.
>t. Guy with thicc dicc

>>1965786
>what? does it matter if it's specific?
Yes
>it's going in your ass
No

sup niggas, where do I get cool anime figs like this one?

>>1965819
Probably paid for on cults3d

>>1965819
Throw a snickers and hot pocket at someone from /3/

>>1965830
>and
You hold them to too high standards

>>1965833
It's called being charitable.

>>1965834
>being charitable
You hold us to too high standards

>>1965835
Maybe so.
Maybe so.

>>1965819
this is for people who want to get aroused every time they look at their computer.

Someone uploaded the bowsette model but they did a piss poor job cutting it up for better printing. I've spent the last few hours removing and separating parts of the model that will really be a bitch to print together. If someone is going to go through all the trouble paying for a 3d model of a half naked bowsette why would they even bother to try and divide it for printing?

>>1965875
how big is this model? how big do you intend to print it? please tell me this is just going to be a desktop model

>>1965819
you model them yourself. easier said than done. also, try google machine

>>1965336
l-link..?

>>1965065
question for people who have a slicer .instead of sanding down the surface has any one tried applying something like epoxy or jb weld brushed on to smooth out the surface. i know epoxy would be runny but on flat surfaces it should work well at least even the cheaper floor epoxy. something ticker for models like jb weld brushed on

so any one try that?

>>1965878
I intend to print the model at 150% size, which will be about 13 inches tall.
>>1965901
google faggot.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431652

The original files are sliced like dogshit. Luckily they kept the geometry on the "complete" file, so I went into blender and removed the shell, fixed some issues with her hair. It looks like to "Cut" the print they just used the Bisect tool so there's broken floating bits all over the place.

I also want to print a Urbosa model but it's even worse with broken geometry. I might try to clean it up in Meshmixer because cura doesn't like flat planes.

>>1965910
Wood putty.

>>1965547
print one and see how much it costed for you to do so? i'll spoil it and say it probably won't be cheaper. you have to account for more than just the filament in your print cost

>>1965910
You're going to want to use spackle or drywall mud. Some people use wood putty but I don't like it, it's too strong for anything a 3d model would need, so it's harder to sand. Mud over Spackle, it's thinner and softer when dry. Easier to feather out. Also, spray paint in heavy thick layers. Make sure it's not dripping but with enough it will fill out the layer lines. Here's a model I made (posted it a while back) and the paint hid like 85% of layers. Also I'm printing at a .2mm layer height because I'm impatient.

>>1965924
Here's a smokestack I duplicated for a friend who does model trains, painted with a single heavy quick coat of black.

>>1965878
Oh also, if I wanted to spend days of printing, I think the max my printer could make it at the current slices is about 16 inches tall. I could get it a lot bigger if I cut them into smaller printable chunks but I really have no drive to do that. I figure I could get the entire model cut up into 10-12 pieces and make a 3' tall bowsette

>>1965910
just use filler primer spray paint

>>1965768
>please for the love of god, if you need dildos just model them yourself. if you're mature enough to need a dildo you're mature enough to put the time into modeling it
false

Ender 5 Plus owner here. I was on a few days ago complaining about some Y axis motor noise, and got a few replies saying to check my voltage and resistance. Before I investigate those, I thought I'd get some second opinions and provide a video.

https://imgur.com/a/fWhKMoF

Notice that the loud noise only occurs with some of the y axis motion, but not all. The stepper motor is also much hotter than the x axis motor.

When I first built the printer, I noticed one of the y axis motor pins was bent. I bent it back into place and thought that was the end of it, but perhaps there was a bigger problem tied to that.

Forgive the disgusting plate, it's hairspray residue because I've been dealing with shitty filament up until now. I need to get a new plate anyways. I also apologize for the messy background.

Stock Ender 3 Pro here with 32-bit board.

So 0.4mm nozzle, whats the largest layer height I can print? I am printing a pan and I want to make the print faster. Is 125 mm/sec too fast? Material is standard PLA at 200c.

>>1965956
80% of your nozzle size

>>1965956
I found 0.3 has layer adhesion issues especially in concave curves of the shell so I'd say use no more than 0.28

>>1965962
>>1965960
when I change from 0.2 to 0.28 cura says the printing time increases

all four corners of my bed are levelled and the nozzle grabs a sheet of paper, but my prints dont have first layer adhesion brcause the nozzle is too far from the bed, so the corners are higher than the rest of the bed.. wtf am i supposed to do

>>1965933
>just use filler primer spray paint
>>1965924
>spray paint in heavy thick layers
won't you lose all the detail with these methods?

>>1965979
For the first layer:
>slow print
>hot nozzle
>hot bed
>no part fan

>>1965993
I disabled steppers and there is a huge gap between the nozzle, from about in an inch in from any of the corners, it takes 4 sheets of paper to catch the nozzle when each corner is catching 1 sheet of paper

>>1965994
Bed sounds sus. I don't know if it's okay to pad it with paper, but you could stuff something between the bed and the plate in the lowest points. Some very thin sheet metal could do the trick if you lay your hands on some. This will help you pass by if your budget is strapped or if your local logistics are still fucked from corona or you live in a shithole like me.

The canon answers will tell you to replace the bed with glass, which makes the bed harder to move so you will either have ringing or make the printer move slower, or to use a sensor, which has its own leveling problems.

>There are no solutions, there are only trade-offs; and you try to get the best trade-off you can get, that's all you can hope for
>Thomas Sowell, economist, certified based black man and assholeblaster of niggers

>>1965875
>navel is suctioned in
>fabric is thin enough to stretch on ribcage and sides
>nipples aren't visible
What the fuck kind of idiot modeller.

>>1966008
Yeah I have 3 sheets of paper under the magnetic bed with an inch strip cut off the front and back (but not the sides) between the corners and its fine now... my first 3 prints didnt need this. This printer is also new.

>>1966011
>This printer is also new
Interesting; brand, model and version?

>>1965965
Printing time calculation in cura is fucked, it generally gives me 30 minutes more on a 2h print

>>1965994
Droop in bed, put a piece of paper in the middle to raise it

>>1966015
Shimming a thing designed to get really hot with paper seems like a bad idea.

>>1965979
>all four corners of my bed are levelled and the nozzle grabs a sheet of paper, but my prints dont have first layer adhesion brcause the nozzle is too far from the bed, so the corners are higher than the rest of the bed.. wtf am i supposed to do
First of all, which printer?
How square is your whole frame? Does it look like a parallelogram or is like a rectangle?
Does the rock when you place it on something flat?
Once you've eliminated those possibilities, re-tighten your X carriage and make sure rollers on left and right side are tight against the frame. Use eccentric nuts.
If none of that helps, your bed is probably fucked. You can try taking it off and flattening it with your hand and weight of your body. Don't use hammers etc.
In the end, your best solution is to buy a glass plate. Those are usually very flat.

Moar like this?

>>1966015
It took 3 sheets of paper

>>1966020
Ender 3 pro. It's printing properly now with 3 sheets of paper. Seems square to me. My test cube printed perfectly.

>>1965979
I had the same problem. Take off the gantry and check all the screws on it. There are some screws that can only be accessed if you take the gantry off - those will probably be loose and the cause of the problem.

I always wondered, can you print bigger stuff than 20x20 or whatever is the base?
Some things can't be split into multiple parts, so can you glue them together or something?
I guess the rigidity would suffer tho

>>1965444
not that anon but its a 3d printed one from thingiverse, look it up there
>>1966015
maybe use aluminium foil from the kitchen, better thermals
>>1966088
yes you can split and print big without issue
or you get a bigger printer with a bigger bed

>>1966092
Did anyone try printing shoes?
For example my fivefingers are basically glorified socks with a thin rubber sole.

Is it okay to spray paint my Z extrusions of my ender 3?
A screw badly scratched my frame and I would like to paint it black again.

>>1966097
You don't want anything on bearing surfaces. Is it where the rollers run?

>>1965565
what extruder is this

>>1966098
Nope, nothing rolling over it, and i have linear rails.

>>1966111
Then you should be fine. Mask off important stuff with tape first, though.

>>1966111
>>1966114
Or, alternatively, put a sticker or something there.

>>1966009
They're polish I think. Also it's supposed to be latex?

When is the Hemera gonna become available again?

>>1966042
This chart is shit.

>>1966088
Rigidity doesnt really suffer depending on what type of glue you use. If you do it properly the glue joint is stronger than the model itself.

FUCK petg

Does anyone have the most recent firmware for the Ender 3 V2? The download on the Creality website seems broken. I just get a faulty archive when I try to download

>>1966042
neat chart

>>1965916
>150% size, which will be about 13 inches tall.
Shame. Split it into larger pieces and make a life size onahole shell

I was recently printing a fairly tall part(about 10 inches)

the first 4-5 inches printed fine, but now I have several horizontal breaks in the print where it's almost like it "skipped" a slice, this missing slices are consisting among the whole print, even the tree supports

what could the cause of this be?

>Let the next round begin.
What are you all printing atm/what is in the queues?

>>1966366
I forgot, I'm printing Covid masks as well as a shelf support and a Relais case

>>1966364
Sounds like a Z axis or slicer issue. I've never heard of a slicer just "skipping" a slice before. Maybe check whatever moves your Z axis, like the screws and whatnot

>>1966366
>What are you all printing atm?
Nothing because I started work early and couldn't pop anything off the queue
>what is in the queues?
>3m/p100 compatible halfmask and accessories
>ender 3 y-belt tensioner
>some trinkets for my family
>spool drawers for an empty spool
>tape holders for various two-face, scotch, and elastic tape rolls I have laying around
>now that i have my calipers back, maybe the calibration steps

>>1966367
>I'm printing Covid masks
they better be cool looking or else we're gonna judge the fucked out of you.

>>1966366
>What are you printing
Picatinny rail base template I made in FreeCAD for the second time. Was way too small the first time, scaled it up to 105% so it should hopefully work now.
>In the queue
Gonna print a picatinny grip, AR grip, and *hopefully* an AR handguard out of either PETG or ABS. And maybe a candlestick as a christmas gift

HELP!

Some of my colleagues have started a competition to design a christmas ball, and there's a small prize for the winners. Doesn't even need to be a ball, can be a cube or whatever. There's three categories: ugliest, most creative, most unique functionality. Since I'm the 3D-printing guy, what do I print? Some fancy, ultrastrong ball? Ask a local titanium printing company if they wanna hook me up? Just print some truck nutz? I need some inspiration for the balls, because I'm also going to be rather busy welding up the christmas tree Santa and his helpers asked me to build.

>>1966369
yeah it couldn't be a software issue, i had it happen once before, then printed again and it was fine
i'll have a look at the z axis components, i have an ender 3 pro

i also wonder if it could be due to ambient temperature changes or something

>3m/p100 compatible halfmask and accessories

Cool, its printing here too atm. I got 2091CN for cheap, gotta use them. What mask are you printing? Me the GB 3D one.

>>1966372
ok if I can print masks I might actually wear one

>>1966376
>i also wonder if it could be due to ambient temperature changes or something
Depends on the filament. Was it PLA or something else
>yeah it couldn't be a software issue, i had it happen once before, then printed again and it was fine
Definitely Z axis. Tighten the screws, check the threads, or just take the whole thing apart and inspect it top-to-bottom.

>>1966372
Prob not, the P100 filters I have are round 80mm blobs right in front of your face...
Doesn't look cool but is hopefully very effective.
Isn't for me anyways, for my elderly parents who have to visit the hospital.

>>1966382
>not wanting your parents to have demon masks as they go to visit their dementia ridden friends.

>>1966367
>I'm printing Covid masks
Which mask are you printing?

>>1966380
>Depends on the filament. Was it PLA or something else
PLA pro
>Definitely Z axis. Tighten the screws, check the threads, or just take the whole thing apart and inspect it top-to-bottom.
im guessing it needs a retightening, i just got the printer a couple weeks ago(my first one and first experience with printing), i've had to retighten a few things

thanks for the suggestion, i am a bit bummed because it was a 20 hour print but i think i'm fairly certain i'll be able to weld it together

>>1966386
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4247151

>>1966378
I was using a nonstandard/"community standard" version of the Geminus mask, and looking for a replacement.
I have considered this one for 3M:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4284829
and this one for P100:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4444363
>>1966389
>NC-ND license
Ew

>>1966391
>>1966370
s/[Pp]100/Honeywell/

>>1966391
Its the only one I found that fits a single 2091CN. So I guess I just roll with it. I just hope my TPU is still OK, is a bit older.

>>1966403
>Its the only one I found that fits a single 2091CN
You could use a blanking cap from here to close the other inlets:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4252141

>>1966341
At that point I'll go to robotics general and figure out a way to make her stomp on my balls.

>>1966150
>This chart is shit.
what's wrong with it?

also, anyone know what those cubes >>1966042 in Shrinkage column mean? how do you read those?

>>1966424
some shrink, some don't. small cube means it shrinks big cube means it doesn't

>>1966430
Really weird legend. Any idea what grayed out cubes mean? I think there are levels of gray too.

>>1966439
I have no idea. This is a pretty at-a-glance chart anyway,
I don't think it's meant to be a handbook.

That being said, it might be a cool project to make one.

>>1965547
You can print decoys, they will be pretty small compared to a store bought decoy. Painting them to look good will probably take as long as the print. Deciding if it would be worth doing is up to you and how much you value your time.

>>1965547
>hunting
>complaining about expenses
so decoys are too expensive but spending hundreds on ammo/gas/gear/time to get a $5 duck is worth it?

>>1966445
>he thinks hunting is about saving money

>>1966448
i hunt too
all i'm saying is the duck decoys are fuck all compared to everything else

>>1966449
true, but since you can't print most of the other stuff you might as well see if you can save a buck or two on something like a decoy.

>>1966449
>you shouldn't try getting something for less money because you pay a lot for other more expensive stuff anyways
That's the mentality of a poor person, anon.
In my country rich people (not millionaires, but still rich) buy a 150k$ car then they have it rigged with an LPG system to save on gas. You don't get richer by spending money, and these guys know it. Why buy gas for that 4L engine that guzzles like crazy when you can have it run on LPG which is basically half price?

>>1966462
>>1966456
i don't think you realize the money numbers we're talking about
the decoys cost less than $10 each
and we're talking about hunting, which is something a truly frugal person would never do
the reason to not buy LPG is it has shit performance, here it's not even cheaper than gas either, and maybe 1/10 gas stations have it

where do you live?

>>1966366
>what is in the queues
A laser cutter. I'm excited.

>>1966472
You have good reason anon! Do tell more!

>>1966471
>and we're talking about hunting, which is something a truly frugal person would never do
I don't know what kind of hunting you do, but you can get a shotgun for about 300 dollars, and that's new. Most people will have their fathers/grandpas shotgun, and with that you can hunt deer just fine. The cost of ammo and "gear" is only huge if you're a gearqueer. if you hunt for meat the cost savings of not having to buy that food because you killed it yourself will pay for your hunting expenses in the first year. assuming you actually bag something.

>>1966479
for duck hunting you need hip waders and all that, which don't last forever and are expensive, plus travel time, hunting license/tags, etc
it depends where you live, some places have plentiful game, but many places you could go hunting several times and come back with nothing
yeah if you can go hunting for one day and get a deer it's pretty economical but that's not the case for a lot of people and places

i pretty much only grouse hunt now for that reason, every time i grouse hunt i bag a few grouse, can't say the same for anything else

whats the best shroud these days? I'm getting a Mosquito clone AMHE and need a new cooling duct for parts.

>>1966471
I live in Romania.
I don't know much about hunting but at that price, if you manage to produce 4 decoys per spool(~20$) it's already a better deal than the store bought decoys.
>inb4 the time you spend maintaining the printer
If you have a printer you're already spending that time, the difference is the amount of prints you get per unit of time spent tinkering with it. If you know what you are doing then even with a chinkshit printer you can just hit print and walk away.

>>1966482
I thread namesake here. I printed a Mini Me because it seemed fast to print, but I suspect the Satsana is actually better in the category of smol simple ducts.
For bells and whistles, get something from the Hero Me suite:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970

>>1966490
you forgetting about needing to paint them to look enough like a duck that a duck will think it's a duck

>>1966495
I think the other anon is trying to duck away from that responsibility

>>1966498
hehe

>>1966495
Are you shooting them though?
Because if you use them to attract other ducks then it sounds like that's not the case. In that case they'd be a one time purchase, so I don't see where the initial problem is. If you'd pay 10$ per plastic duck then that's fine by me as long as you use them for a long time.

>>1966502
all the brushes and colors of paint you need would cost more than buying the decoys
plus the hours and hours it would take you paint them, and repaint them as you fuck unless you're already an experienced tole painter

>>1966492
thanks anon!

>Ctrl+F "dildo"
>11 occurences
good enough

>>1965875
2 hours or so in boys, getting there.

Question all,

SKR 1.3 w/ TMC2209. When I send M122 to the printer, all i get back is OK's from the individual drivers. No detailed info, which i thought i should get.

Any thoughts? Pic related.

>>1966563
Take your furry shit and off yourself

>>1966568
Do you use the TMC from Biqu or other manufacturer? I heard you have to configure them somehow. Also there are different versions of the TMC2209

>>1966568
I'm getting the same output with a Skr Mini and the newest Marlin. Just read the parameters from.EEPROM

Printing a sieve for a coworker.

I got lucky multiple times with this one.

I set a pause in slic3e where i want to add the mesh. It didnt trigger in the original ender fw. I got lucky that i noticed the pause was up on the next layer. It didnt trigger so i paused from menu.

While applying the mesh with a soldering iron, i heard that the steppers turned off, im guessing timeout. So print position was lost. I thought its okay i home X and Y and continue the print. But there was no separate axis home options, only auto home. I was like fuck it. And got lucky when it was homing Z the hotend barely missed the print and i was able to resume.

>>1966616
That's pretty cool, but why not design it to be removable so they can change sizes or replace them when it's worn out?

>>1966616
got an STL for this??? it's fucking fascinating. Had no idea this could be done!

>>1966478
Not much to tell yet, it's a pile of parts right now, and I've got extrusions arriving later this week. The tube just got here today and it's fuckhueg (~100W, so it's 1400mm long). Will need to do some redesign to the frame plans I have (Y-1200 by Further Fabrication) but it should be hopefully pretty simple. Can't wait to put it all together, ideally sometime this weekend.

>>1966639
>The tube just got here today and it's fuckhueg (~100W, so it's 1400mm long)
How are you going to fit it? Got any diagrams?

>>1966563
First and largest part done.

>>1966639
>another anon is doing a laser cutter
OY. Maybe you could answer some questions of mine. What kinda tube is it and how much did you pay? also I'm planning on going a little smaller scale than yours. I mostly want to use mine to engrave, but I really like the ability to actually cut things out with it too.

I honestly have no clue as far as the laser goes. I'd know how to make and hook up everything else because it's ez pz arduino and rails. But I'm a complete laser noob.

Help an anon out?

>>1966096
Yes

>>1966386
Dragon dildo mask

>>1966375
Cube in a cube in a cube in a cube.

>>1966663
or alternatively, a sphere within a sphere within a sphere within a sphere.

All spheres should have speed holes so you can actually see them.

>>1966644
I'll pull up some CAD later but I'm strapping it on the back and adding an extra mirror to account for my hubris

>>1966658
>What kinda tube
RECI T4, I wanted a 150W but i'm not quite ready to pay just shy of a grand for my first laser tube
>How much did you pay
$495 for the tube itself, plus $165 shipping, from LightObject. I spent hours picking out a source and it was between this and CloudRay, and CloudRay wanted *$900 fucking dollars* for shipping it, so it was a no-brainer despite Cloudray's being like $150 cheaper for the same tube.

>I honestly have no clue as far as the laser goes
Further Fabrication's Y-1200 is the one I'm basing mine off of, the guy looks like he knows what he's doing and made a solid but vague video series on how to build it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4BfQGhhbOQ&list=PLT2B-jiRa_P4blv69gIPtibwSavtNRHN4

He sells a complete build guide, a BOM, and CAD for this and a smaller laser (I think 50W) on his site for $15 total, and the BOM is a little rough around the edges since it uses all Ali sources and the build guide could be formatted better, but it's saved me a shitload of time since now I don't have to figure out my own design and iterate that. I'd say it's worth it - but I haven't built it yet, so we'll see.

Since it looks like there's interest, I'll probably post some pics as I put it together; I haven't seen any laser threads in a while and 3DP is close enough that I feel it would fit in here anyway.

>>1966665
Sounds bad ass. Looking forward to it. I wonder how small these can go for making miniature stuff.

>>1966375
>>1966664
>or alternatively, a sphere within a sphere within a sphere within a sphere.
An armillary sphere Christmas ball!

>>1966665
>3DP is close enough that I feel it would fit in here anyway.
Definitely would. I don't think too many anons on this board actually have laser cutters so a /LCG/ would be pretty much dead.

Looking forward to your pics anon. and when I said slightly smaller I meant something in the neighborhood of under 10W. The main use i'd get out of it is engraving, maybe a little circuit board etching too. I'm making a 4x4' plasma cnc table right now so I've got steel cutting pretty much covered.

you think 10W is even powerful enough to etch into steel? I get mixed answers researching it online. Not looking for a production machine so speed isn't too much of a factor in play.

>>1966665
>I haven't seen any laser threads in a while and 3DP is close enough that I feel it would fit in here anyway
I love you anon, I've been considering getting some flat bullshit cut for my printer, like carriages and such. Your laser cutter is perfectly welcome here.

>>1966676
>Under 10W
You're probably looking at a diode laser then, it's way simpler and around factor of 10 cheaper. Maybe consider something like the MPCNC but modified to be cheaper. Or, hell, just stick it on your printer or get one of those Amazon kits.

>10W steel etching
Haven't the faintest, sorry. When I get mine built I'll drop it as far as I can and see what I can do.

>>1966670
>>1966679
Baller, good to hear.

Sorry for the blog post.

My ender 3 has shat the bed multiple times in the past 3 weeks. had just gotten it working and it took a swan dive off my work bench when I was working on stuff. Dog caught the extension cord.

Can anyone recommend a printer to me? Honestly, I want something I can throw a mosquito/dragon hot end on, print hot with, and easily enclosed, and on a plus side, dual extruders or a Multimaterial set up.

I have to get sold on another bed slinger, but I'm open to it. Really wanted CoreXY for my next bot.

>>1966687
>dog in same room as printer
>printer with cord in front of table instead of behind
>extension cords
Mate, you gotta do some rethinking before getting a new printer

>>1966366
>What are you all printing atm
Money, as usual

>>1966687
E3D Toolchanger is worth buying if you're into multi material shit. You also get a pretty big build area and is fairly easy to enclose.

>>1966698
what even is that

>>1966694
Never heard of a shop dog? Mine's a spaz.
Believe me, wasn't my smartest move. Literally just finished rewiring/replacing everything on it after about 2 years of use. Had it out in the woodshop on my workbench and not on the shelf with my other printers.
My raspi wiring is about on par with this guys though>>1966698
>>1966709
REALLY wanted to build a Jubilee, just cause it was compatible with the E3D system and seemed to come out cheaper/I wanted to enjoy building something from the ground up. That was actually the plan, or a voron. Was upgrading and enclosing the Ender 3 so I could print abs easily.

>>1966687
What the hell is so wrong with that poor Ender 3 that you can't fix it? Most mechanical parts are 10-15$ each, the board is a bit more expensive at 30$. Not exactly worth buying a new printer considering a fix is this cheap.
Also I wouldn't go out buying a new printer while there still are animal hazards around. Remove the dog first.

>>1966646
nice. this doesn't look like PLA. what is it? petg?

>>1966698
>Money, as usual
BASED. Do you sell your models or do you print for others? gimme some tips bro. would like to make enough to pay off my printer.

>>1966723
It's "clear" pla. It prints a translucent frosty white and gets really weird reflective and refractive parts. I used it because it's what I have laying around. I might reprint with a smaller layer height if I struggle with sanding. Took about 5 hours at this size, reducing layer height to .1 mm will be a 9 hour print.

>>1966728
looks fucking great.
are you gonna paint it?

>>1966729
I'm unsure. The final model will be 14 inches tall or so when assembled, I will see how it looks sanded and decide if I want to paint. Since the model is translucent I was considering drilling a hole up it's ass and shoving an LED ribbon "tentacle" up there. It would light up the models belly and make a kind of obscene lamp. That's a lot of work though so I will probably just paint.

>>1966728
god i wish someone made honest to god clear filament. would be awesome

Has anyone here run multiple filaments through one extruder with Cura's "pause at layer" function? If so, how did it work? I want to use multiple filaments on one of my prints (different color, same brand and temps) but I wondered if anyone else here had tried it. It sounds like it would work on paper

>>1966745
>Has anyone here run multiple filaments through one extruder with Cura's "pause at layer" function?
Yeah
>If so, how did it work?
I got a couple of scratches but it worked, overall. I'll send pics tomorrow.

>>1966747
Neat. I guess I'll try it then

>>1966753
I used change filament at z instead of pause, but I guess the same principle applies

>>1966713
4 lulzbot minis (one setup for ABS)
4 Qidi X-One2s (one is on opposite wall)
1 Qidi X-Maker (also opposite wall)
Qidi mostly makes knockoff makerbot replicators, but they dirt cheap and come with Marlin controllers. I've modified all of them to have on-top spool holders, removable magnetic buildplates, and I cut the extruder housing in half so I can easily remove the fan if I need to clear a filament jam. They're really reliable for $250 prebuilt printers.
>>1966716
Yeah, I just have all the ethernet cables and the switch zip-tied under the wire shelves
>>1966725
I'm the guy selling Nerf stuff. And only the stuff I've designed myself. Most of my profit margin comes from selling hardware sets though. Those get produced in the shed in my backyard.

>>1966757
yes but what are you making

>>1966737
>god i wish someone made honest to god clear filament. would be awesome
PolySmooth is the closest to clear right now. After printing with it, people use sprays of IPA to melt and smooth the surface slightly and it turns pretty clear. There might be some other clear Polyvinyl Butyral filaments.. do some searching.

>>1966758
Kits for HYPR pistols.
Tomorrow I switch over to printing the parts for the larger designs. I have two dozen sets of 30 total hours each to print by December 22nd. Should finish by the end of next week.

>>1966757
>I'm the guy selling Nerf stuff. And only the stuff I've designed myself. Most of my profit margin comes from selling hardware sets though. Those get produced in the shed in my backyard.
>>1966763
>Kits for HYPR pistols.
That's fucking awesome! Haven't seen your prints before on here (only started following these threads like a week or two ago).
What filaments do you use for your toys?
I have an idea for a handle for a tool (for a desoldering pump). No, it won't be really hot unless you intentionally bring it in contact with hot stuff so plastic is OK.
What would be the best material to print it in and at what kind of an infill are "parts for sale" usually printed in? Thanks!

>>1966768
I don't post photos on here much because my printing is pretty repetitive as everything is dialed in.
>What filaments do you use for your toys?
PLA is a variety of brands: RepRapper, Ziro, Paramount3D, NovaMaker, 3D Solutech, Fusion, and others depending on color or availability.
ABS is primarily Gizmodorks, IC3D, or Amazon/Overture for reliability/strength reasons. There's way more garbage filament in ABS than other materials.
>What would be the best material to print it in
Probably PETG. ABS is kind of a headache to get setup in comparison.
>what kind of an infill are "parts for sale" usually printed in?
1.5 to 2mm walls/perimeters with 20% infill

>>1966771
Thanks so much! Appreciate you sharing your experience!!

I'm loading .stl files into chitubox and I seem to have this grid like pattern on any smooth surfaces. I'm trying to smooth it out and I don't know if this is a chitubox thing or my blender .stl file. Anyone know? Thanks

>>1966800
stl file. Insufficient model detail.

if i exhaust abs fumes into my room ner an open window with a fan, will i die of cancer/grow a new dick or should i be good

>>1966676
>>1966682
The wavelength really matters for cutting/engraving different materials.
There are also laser marking materials you can apply to the part that allows you to etch things you otherwise couldn't.

>>1966800
>grid like pattern on any smooth surfaces
heh. it's called triangles and quads, anon. in your case, quads.
Start with quads (no triangles!) and subdivide it more in Blender. Tools tab, Subdivide. 3x should be enough.

>>1966819
ABS is not carcinogenic. Fumes can cause an irritation but they're not toxic.

Unless you live in California... where everything is carcinogenic.

>>1966825
Hard for California to tell carcinogens apart when the state itself is cancer.

>>1966828
kek

>>1966828
based. california sucks

>>1966380
>>1966387
was actually an extruder issue, i had been being lazy and not installed the aluminum extruder kit i bought
now it's all running much better, i think the arm of the polymer one was having tension and flexing issues, also at one point the driven pulley had raised and was wrecking the knurling(that was preassembled, thanks chinese QC) from running into the idler pulley
put the metal one in now, and not having any issues, before i would hear the occasional knocking noise from the extruder motor struggling when it would back out

one screw of the previous assembly seemed loose as well so that could have been a contributing factor

so i'm not sure exactly what was causing the problem, likely a combination of things

>>1966828
>>1966829
>>1966831
that shithole can't become Arizona bay soon enough.

>>1966800
Yeah, the stl format is literally the "standard triangles" format. Your smooth surface gets sampled/digitized/rasterized into a fixed number of rigid shapes.

Depending on the tool you use, you can probably force it to use higher fidelity, and to divide into a greater number of triangles/quads.

>>1966617
They wont be used that much. Also meh, cant be bothered to spend more time on this.

>>1966625
Its 5 minutes in cad. Youcandoit.gif

My resin prints are streched out in the Z axis, what could be wrong?

>>1966698
hi, what is the RasPi for?

Nylon: Does it need a glass bed or am I good with an Ender 3 Pro magnetic bed?

>>1966881
Glass plus adhesive is best.

>>1966881
glue stick, 80degC bed, 240C hotend (or whatever instructions on your filament say) and maybe an enclosure (a trash bag over it) and you're g2g.

>>1966855
>Its 5 minutes in cad. Youcandoit.gif
how thin should the lines be and what about the spacing for that sieve's "fabric"?
also, what CAD is that?

Printed a transparent vase artsy xmas tree
This filament is not transparent at all. Maybe I should increase layer height and flow.

>>1966889
Cool, that wispy droop on the top gives a whole new look to the thing, it represents the plight of the working class

>>1966889
Nice! What the filament? PLA?

>>1966898
I'm assuming PETG, PLA is opaque

>>1966828
Is that a LockpickingLawyer reference?

>>1966904
No, but LockpickingLawyer is pretty cool.

>>1966900
not necessarily.

>>1966893
kek thanks

>>1966898
It is PLA. Oldass 2+ years old geeetech brand I never really found a use for, so it's always sitting in its ziploc bag on the back of the filament shelf. It's so old it snaps in my hands

>>1966908
PLA is primarily a crystalline polymer. For transparency you need a glasslike amorphous structure or a splecial highly regular crystalline structure that polymers cannot achieve (only partly crystalline with the rest of the molecule being in a jumble)

>>1966912
>>1966909
In that case I am astonished PLA can do this and learned something new. What print settings did you use?

>>1966912
all you've said is true but there's plenty of translucent """PLA""" filaments.
what's their secret?

>>1966912
I've got some natural PLA+ that I haven't tried yet. Is it translucent enough to diffuse light better than white?

>>1966919
They aren't clear. They are just translucent

>>1965445
No combing for PETG. Set Wipe to 1.5x nozzle diameter, Z-Hop on (2x layer height), get your retract settings right (less may be more).
Bed 70°, Nozzle 230°, cooling 30-40%.
Oh, and set the line width for first layer to 130%.

>>1965979
BL Touch

>>1965979
If your bed is warped that badly then you can turn on manual bed leveling in marlin. You will do the paper thing in a 3*3 or 4*4 grid as defined by the firmware, then the data will be saved and you can use it for your prints by adding M420 S1 to your Gcode.

>>1966878
>what is the RasPi for?
There's one Octoprint server for each Lulzbot Mini v1.04 since they have to print while tethered. I manage their print queue through Octoprint tabs in a browser on my computer in the office adjacent to the closet.

>>1966366
Just printed this keyholder. Seems pretty legit, but I doubt it'll last that long since it's printed in PLA+.

>inb4 Supremefag
I bought the keychain 8 years ago

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>>1967033

>>1966978
That anon's figure's not clear either. You just can't admit you're wrong. kek.