/diy/ - Do It Yourself

leaning towards the ender 5 pro

>>1959691
Depends on what you define as "functional". Give examples, it's kind of hard to narrow it down - I make functional aerospace SLA parts, for example, but some people will say SLA is only for decorative use.

Will any of these settings fix this staircase effect?
Ruler for scale (lol)

>>1959701
>I make functional aerospace SLA parts
>inb4 it's a hula girl on top of a dashboard

What's up with the spring on the extruder gear for the Ender 3? It feels like there's so much unnecessary force, I barely have the screw on. If I tighten it at all, the gears eventually slip and grind on the filament.

What's the best method of joining filament together? I tried melting and sticking an old roll onto a new one, but the join was too thick and ended up getting stuck.

I tries to print something very flat on a Photon, while the raft did stick to the plate it seems like at some point the pieces got stuck into the teflon and ripped the supports, so in the teflon I get a flat silhouette of my print, while in my plate I get the raft and supports. I already gave up on the print, too manny tiny pieces that would have been to brittle anyways, but I would like to know what exactly is causing this problem

>>1959729
Need a blanket? The poor thing

>>1959729
is that you boogie?

Ever 3D printed a tool? Which one? Show me what you've got, /3dpg/.
>>1959728
>What's the best method of joining filament together? I tried melting and sticking an old roll onto a new one, but the join was too thick and ended up getting stuck.
you need a clamp.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981547

>>1959754
>Ever 3D printed a tool? Which one?
Spamanon here, printed a 13mm wrench to change my Ender 3's belt tensioners, worked well enough.

>>1959754
>>1959759
I havent done it yet but I need to print a torque wrench. to change the nozzle, you need to torque it to a specific number specified by the hotend manufacturer. if you torque it down too much, it could easily snap and destroy the hotend and if you don't torque it down enough, it can ooze the plastic and you will have incredibly hard time cleaning this mess.
if you don't wanna buy the real thing, you can 3d print it but I have no idea how accurate these things are. I'd assume the accuracy depends on your printer's accuracy and the filament you're using. if anyone knows for sure, let me know.

>>1959754
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981547
oh sweet thanks

Just a PSA to new Creality printer owners - you should do the hotend fix if you haven't already. I did mine and so far it's fixed the constant clogging I was getting before.

>>1959769
horrible freight sells torque wrenches for less than 20$

>>1959769
Or you could just use common sense when tightening. I don't have a torque wrench that can do 1.5Nm because I work on cars and the lowest rated one I have is for 10Nm. I resort to tightening them with the sheet metal wrench that came with the printer. Go as tight as you can without damaging the hexagonal profile.
For me that always gave good results and is fairly easy to remove later on too.

>>1959812
>Or you could just use common sense when tightening
That only works if you have experience with torque. I know fuck-all about what the proper torque for a hotend should feel like. I'm afraid of under torquing it and then having to deal with a fucked up hotend. I know from changing grips on an 19111 that you can easily overtighten something too.
Printing one of these wrenches seems like a fucking no-brainer.

>>1959808
>horrible freight sells torque wrenches for less than 20$
I just looked it up. The $20 version is the click type and it has the torque range: 20-150 ft. lbs.
Hotends require from 1-3.5Nm of torque depending on the manufacturer and nozzle type. 1 ft lb is 1.36Nm.
So Horrible-Freight wrenches are fucking useless for this application.

I also have too many tools that I bought and used maybe once or twice. I have some that I've never used. I'd rather just print off something that's cheap and I can easily chuck if I don't need it anymore.

>>1959769
I can not believe that this thing will be accurate.
why dont you just use a regular wrench and a small digital kitchen scale?

>>1959816
>>1959820
Nozzle tightening is not fucking rocket science, unless you use fucken gorilla strength you wont snap it and since 1.5Nm is apparently enough pretty much anything you do you will be fine.
That is AS LONG AS the nozzle butts up against the heat break and not the heater block, that is literally the only thing you've gotta get right, as long as you do that, you're golden.

There are so many kinds of filaments out there, I wish someone would test them all. Especially the exotic proto pasta ones.

>>1959835
You should 3d print yourself a bigger dick

>>1959816
>you can easily overtighten something too
I already told you how to tell if it's enough or not. If the wrench starts biting into the brass then you can stop.
If I were you I'd be more worried about breaking nozzles in the hotend when trying to remove them. I've broken a few like that myself. Creality nozzles seem to have a habit of getting stuck in there real well.

>>1959664
still couldn't find the extruder i was thinking of, it had some white and blue printed planetary gears.
here is another high reduction extruder tho: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085
>>1959769
thats a nice tool, i usually just screw them hand-tight, no issues since
>>1959754
solder fingers, a tool to bend resistors, radius gauges, caliper-adapters for measuring holes etc.

how do you separate objects in Cura? I'd like to print one model in one orientation and others in a different...

Why is my first layer "bubbling" like this? I'm using eSun Gold Silk PLA and my settings are:

First layer height: 140%
First layer width: 98%
First layer speed: 55%
Extruder temp: 210 degrees celcius

I'll keep messing with the settings until I get it right

>>1959909
Throw it into an oven overnight at 50C and see if that fixes it.

>>1959915
alright mate I'll give it a go, I think you're right about it being moisture

I'm curious why moisture would have such a "consistent" effect though. Wouldn't moisture and bubbles pop up randomly throughout the print and not consistently in the same place making this weird effect?

>>1959909
Looks like it's clogged to me

>>1959860
link to stl?

>>1959923
clearly not clogged dude

>>1959922
>"consistent" effect
the faulty extrusion gets dragged out to the next line that gets laid down, you see it in your first video. if there already is a piece sticking out in x/y the molten filament just flows into the empty space next to it and the pattern repeats
>moisture
when the hotend reaches the lower limit in the first video you see a bubble that pops so i guess its moisture
also check if your extruder is working fine, all in all it looks really uneven

>>1959926
Why's it pinching off loafs then

>>1959820
>So Horrible-Freight wrenches are fucking useless for this application
They sell inch pound wrenches with 1/4th inch drives.

>>1959860
That model needs to be cut into at least 3 parts to print well

Day 3 of attempting to print a boat.

I'll get there one day.

>>1959685
Porque?

>>1959982
¿Por qué sucede X?
X sucede porque Y

I know this is not exactly 3dp, but someone here might be able to help.
I need to find some sort of software that could align and compare two sketches (or two dxf-s,...) and also measure deviation.
I have measurements of a gear (dots) and cad drawing of the gear (solid lines).
And I want to find out the deviation between those two. But before that, they need to be aligned together, in a best fit scenario- where deviations are the smallest. What software should I use?
For example this is what I want, but I need it in 2D, not 3D (0:10 to 0:45):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gPt-ZV2c-k

>>1959991
Use each sketch to extrude a gear of a known height (say 5mm), then use the inspection as per the video. Whatever variations show up, it will be from the sketch that served as the base for your gear.

>>1959860
Gibe stl

>>1960011
I was thinking about this, but one sketch is made of 5000 points, that are not connected. I don't really want to connect them manually. Only if I don't find anything better.
Also I don't have Geomagic software. I am more looking for a software that I could get ""student"" version of.

>>1959991
try GOM inspect maybe

Is there a CAD program with similar meshing features to Blender?

>>1959981
what printer?
what slicer?
which settings?

>no stringing
feels good

>>1960049
You can do mesh/surface work in SolidWorks, though I'd generally not recommend it. Solids are way better.
>>1960052
What layer thickness? I can see some striations on the smooth part in the bottom right, but otherwise that came out very nice.

>>1960061
0.2mm, esun pla which has been pretty shitty compared to the house brand i usually use

>>1960052
Travel speed?

Thoughts on this?
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/3dprintmill/creality-infinite-z-axis-build-volume-printer-3dprintmill

>>1960087
150mm/s with 50mm/s print speed

>>1960090
I won't be a beta tester for it, but I like the concept.
Being able to print very long objects opens a lot of projects.

>>1960090
The concept is pretty old by now:
https://blackbelt-3d.com/
I've worked with these guys, their printer is nice but very expensive. It's not the ''infinite'' Z-axis that's interesting to me, but the way of slicing that allows some different freedom in designing without support material. It's not eye-opening, revolutionary, but very nice indeed. I'll have some other goobers try the Creality first though, I'm not convinced you can build a good one for less than 1000USD - and I'm not enough of an idiot to go try and pledge to a Kickstarter for it. Creality is one of the biggest players in the industry, they should be able to fund their own production runs, this is just marketing garbage instead of actual crowfunding.

>>1960090
>Thoughts on this?
I was considering one, but the really rough print surface is a huge downside that I can't justify dealing with in my application.

>>1960051
Printer CR-10S Pro
Slicer: Utimaker Cura 4.8.0
Settings:
1.75 PLA
210 C TiP
60c Bed
60 Speed
Fan off

I've tried tons of combinations, fan off fan on 220c 100 speed shits is fucked my guy but I'm learning.

Not pictured: 6 other boat attempts

>>1960090
It's neat, but nothing more than that. The one thing that stands out is the way it prints: the layers are oriented at 45deg from horizontal. This completely changes support and overhang behavior.
The big issues I see:
>inconsistent heating of the belt, if it even is heated at all
>a lot of problems with first layers due to the fact that you're printing on flexible surface
>incompatibility with most slicers out there right now

Other big minuses:
>they still didn't fix the full retard hotend and layer cooling fan setup that other Creality printers have, they just slapped on another 4010 on the other side
>the angled extrusions are mounted to the horizontal ones with some thin brackets and T nuts, easy source of alignment issues
>the belt is a consumable because it's both a belt and your build surface, fuck it up by crashing the nozzle into it and you're going to have to buy a new one

Also
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>kickstarter for a printer that's produced by one of the largest 3D printer manufacturers around

>>1960131
>failing a benchy
wat, that thing should print next to flawless out of the box with default cura settings
pla wants fans on 100%, it looks more like a hardware problem than a slicer-setting one
is the print detaching from the bed the cause of the spaghetti?

>>1959971
>That model needs to be cut into at least 3 parts to print well
how do I do that?

>>1960147
You have to do it in blender. Link stl file

>>1960151
it's a file off thingiverse. I'm not home so don't have a link but it's just a generic corona-chan.

so you have to slice it in Blender? How do you slice her up? where do you place cut planes?

>>1960090
https://youtu.be/9l85FGq3_qk
A nadie le importa
Nobody cares

>>1960156
You would cut up the model into separate stls to print, I mean I would cut off the legs and head, print the torso upside-down to minimize supports needed. Maybe print the left arm separately. Link stl

>>1960131
Is there any wobble in the carriage on the X gantry?

>>1960169
Same question for the bed as well actually.

>>1960140
The print does not detach from the bed. Holy crap! You think it's hardware? It's a creality

>>1960171
>>1960169
That's an interesting question, I'll check right away. I'm going to google how to but do you have a particular way?

Keep in mind, current symptoms are delamination as well as occasionally the stringing you see here.

The most perfect version I have is pictured

>>1960174
That looks like something's fucky with your extruder or hotend. It's not a bad Idea to check the gantries but I'd start with the hotend and extruder.

>>1960159
Not him, but if you cut a model for printing, is it basically just that or is there more preparation to it? For example, you make the arm another piece, completely flat and printed upwards, then glue the flat surfaces together in the end?

>>1960180
Ideally you would add pegs and holes to make them hold better and in the correct position but you could slice them flat and glue them.

>>1960174
So the stringing is simply a matter of dialling in your temps and retractions; at this point it's not something to concern yourself with until you fix the other issues.

Based on this image, the first things I'd check would be the gantries and belt tension. A loose X gantry is going to nod backwards and forward as it gets dragged over the print and is likely to rip the print off the bed. Loose belt tension is going to cause slop in movements and could be causing the vertical banding in the prints (it could also be caused by the z screw, but that's unlikely to fail a print).

>>1960182
I see, thanks! Probably going to need learn how to do that sooner or later

>>1960140
>>1960169
>>1960171
>>1960176
>>1960184

So from top to bottom I will fix the following
- the extruder/hotend
- gantry tension
- Check the z screw for fun and education
- set the print to default cura settings

Thank you for all this insight, you all are great!

>>1960189
Gantry stability and belt tension are two separate things. You can ignore the z screw for now.

>>1960193
Gantry stability and belt tension are separate things understood makes sense to me now rereading it. Thank you!

I'll ignore the z screw and try the print without that inspection

>>1960052
what is it?

>>1960199
a tool holder for my lack stack, might print some more and stack them
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4642498

>>1960174
jfc... wtf are you doing? how the fuck do you manage to fuck it up so bad?
when I bought my printer, I printed an almost perfect Benchy on the first try.
something's seriously fucked up with your setup.
also, a fucking raft? why??

>>1960207
Steady on anon, not every printer comes from the factory properly adjusted and if it's his first printer he wont know all the mechanical checks he needs to perform first time. He probably just bolter the gantry to the base and connected the wires assuming that a product should just work out of the box. My CR-10S (first printer) came with a wobbly Y carriage that I didn't spot until after the first bad print, my guess at the moment is his X carriage is loose.

>>1959847
If you're breaking nozzles, there's a good chance no one should be listening to you for advice on technique. Always do your final tightening and initial loosening with a hot heater block. Avoid overtightening.

>>1960211
I did exactly that! Coming from building PC's I figured this would be the case. Maybe lube a pipe here and there but pretty much plug and play. Im happy with the change of pace, looking forward to really getting into the meat and pots of 3d printing from the start.

I would compare this to having to take apart a video card to apply heat sink lube before plugging it into the pc if that makes sense.

>>1960211
Iv'e never seen a Creality printer print so bad in my life.
If this was mine, I'd tear it down completely and rebuild. something's clearly fucked up and no amount of """adjustments""" in garbage like Cura will fix that.

>>1960174 tear it COMPLETELY down, bud. dismantle the gantry and start from scratch. and use a SQUARE if you have one to make everything perpendicular.
you hotend or the probe or the termistor could be fucked or loose or something like that.
you're just wasting your time and the filament trying all these """fixes""" in Curashit. none of that whit with work.

>>1960218
That sounds like a good time and on route with the fixes above so why not.

>>1960172
this was my first ever benchy that I printed with stock cura settings, the default pla-profile and the sample filament that came with the ender3pro
that's why I think its a hardware issue, could be something as simple as your extruder slipping or the filament tangling up

>>1960209
Does this normally happen here?

>>1960223
i'm here for 3 months and until now: no

>>1960225
Ack

>>1960216
As if my technique is the problem here.
After I tighten the nozzle I can remove it no problem. One print later it's much tighter than before but still removable by the stock wrench. After 2 prints the stock wrench no longer cuts it and I have to bring in a socket. 3 prints and up I just take the entire hotend off and get it on my workbench because I know what's coming. That's how it is with the nozzles I got from Creality.
I also bought some low quality chinese crap nozzles, 3$ for 25 or something and those don't have this issue. Print quality does suffer but if something fucks up and the hotend clogs I no longer have to hammer screwdrivers in the broken nozzle at 3AM.

>>1960221
>That sounds like a good time and on route with the fixes above so why not.
how long have you been trying to fix it? jfc... this should have been the first advice someone with a clue should have given you. you probably wasted a day trying various settings... all of which are pointless in this situation.

>>1960172
>You think it's hardware? It's a creality
You think it shits in the woods? It's a bear

It might be a retarded noob question but how do I "remix" objects from thingiverse?

If I download the .stl and open in 360 it gives me the mesh, but I cannot easily extrude a surface? I would have to select all the subsurfaces individually and extrude them?

>>1960238
I haven't done it before, but I think you're supposed to use mesh mixer.

>>1960238
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzlHBMnu8DI

>>1960221
>>1960232
Yeah pretty much sounds like bad installation and should've done a full rework from the beginning then sus out the details.

Follow a video like this or search for Ender 3 rework https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk

>>1960232
Oh like three days trying different settings. Top google searches advise the messing with settings and filaments. I also dont know a single person that does 3d printing. Wanted to try everything I could find before asking for advice

>>1960248
Im on a C10S Pro V2 but I feel you. I will look up a video that covers a break down and rebuild. Im doing the break down now, the whole system feels really straight forward but I bet the leveling is a bitch.

>>1960209
Dude what's wrong with your toes?

>>1960250
>Oh like three days trying different settings. Top google searches advise the messing with settings and filaments. I also dont know a single person that does 3d printing. Wanted to try everything I could find before asking for advice
sounds like a bunch of really bad advice.
wasn't checking this thread for few days so I haven't seen your posts before. sorry.
yeah, tear it all down and start from scratch. make sure everything's level & perpendicular. if you have a roofing square or a speed square or a machinist square... use it to get it right.
tighten all belts properly and especially those eccentric nuts.
I've assembled like 40 3d printers for a company I used to work with so I've seen it all.

>>1960252
Yeah I really was annoyed by it too, but it's all worth it in the end. It helps if you have a square or something you know that's perfectly 90 degrees. The gantry has so many points that need to be aligned.

>>1960271
looks good but how well does it work?

>>1960274
>looks good
You only saw the pretty side; I printed it in a shitty orientation and the chin looks like shit, but thanks
>how well does it work?
I had to mold it a bit to my ugly mug with hot water, and some clips for the elastic band could help keep things tidy and reduce the slipping, but it looks promising.

>>1960247
Ah I see, thanks mate

Has anyone printed carbon fiber nylon? Is it really better than normal nylon? I don't want to upgrade to hardened steel/ruby nozzle if there are hardly any advantages.

>>1960288
>Has anyone printed carbon fiber nylon? Is it really better than normal nylon? I don't want to upgrade to hardened steel/ruby nozzle if there are hardly any advantages.
>hardly any advantages
Heh... just an anecdote... I have not printed with it myself (don't have an all metal hotend) but have purchased a quad frame printed from NylonX. It's on par with carbon fiber frames I bought in the past for less than 1/2 of the cost.
Still haven't broken it and don't think I ever will. It's also way more abrasion resistant than regular nylon when you do crash.
I'd also look into PolyMide nylon too if you can print it.

>>1960302
What temps do you need?

>>1960307
240 or so

>>1960310
just looked it up... it's even higher than 240. some recommend 260.
so yeah, that's why I never bothered printing with it.
my quad frame is over 2 years old now. still going strong.
carbon fiber or polymide/Kevlar filled nylon is great... but expensive.

>>1960274
>>1960278
Molded it to my face with hot water (obviously forgetting to wipe the water off first and branding myself in the process) and printed some buckles, and it looks like it might actually work

>>1959587
How did you get the transparent filament so clear? I have monoprice "clear" filament and it's like frosted glass at best.

>>1959860
GIB STL REEEE

>>1960357
Not him, but that's resin, not filament

>>1960312
Is there a way to override the heater in the stock creality hotend? If so I could print this no prob.

>>1959702
Any insight?

>>1960368
>Is there a way to override the heater in the stock creality hotend? If so I could print this no prob.
I can crank up my Ender 3 nozzle up to 260C. it won't let me increase it more than this.
if I was trying to print it, I'd probably try at 250. but definitely in a ventilated area.
do you have some filament? if I had some, I'd try it too. from seeing vids, I don't think nylonx is difficult at all. you can't use a fan though and have to use a glue stick on the bed... which is not an issue.

First time using PrusaSlicer and the supports were a bit too strong. A layer of supports actually fused to the part. What are some settings I can tweak to get less adhesion?

I never cared about how my prints looked, but now I want to make decent quality lithoplanes. These little scar-looking lines are an extrusion problem, right? What's the big horizontal line around halfway up? My best guess is the printer got bumped. Also bits of dust getting stuck between the layers is very annoying.

I made a working little ball-and-socket joint, too, which is pretty cool.

>>1960376
I don't mean to hijack this convo, but I'm going to be printing nylon for the first time to make some gearing for an RC car. I was talked into Taulman Nylon 645 by a friend at work, because it's easier to print than most nylon. Is there anything special I should do with a Prusa? I've seen recommendations to make coat and cure the bed with elmer's and print ontop of it, but is that completely necessary? I don't have an enclosure, but that doesn't seem to be as much of a non-starter as it would be if I were printing substantially sized parts or if I was using ABS.

>>1960376
I have a metal hotend, but I was wondering if I could override the settings in marlin and go up to 280 so I don't have to worry about any material.

>>1960383
Make sure you dry the filament if you leave it out for awhile

>>1960378
Set Z Contact Distance from 0.1mm to 0.15mm, maybe 0.2mm if you still have trouble. Leave XY distance alone, its not going to be an issue at all 99% of the time.

>>1960389
Yeah, thanks for the reminder. I'm always conscious of moisture for PLA and others, but from what I've been reading it's absolutely crucial for nylon.

>>1960383
How many gears do you need? A lot or just a one-off? No point in buying a huge spool of it if you will never use it again. Problem with it is that it's extremely hydrophilic so storing it is a bitch. There are other ways to obtain small amounts of nylon but it won't be some brand name...
>>1960388
>I have a metal hotend, but I was wondering if I could override the settings in marlin and go up to 280 so I don't have to worry about any material.
That seems to be easy... just looked up Configuration.h...

change the line:
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 280

and it will go to 280, for example.

>>1960391
Thanks I'll give it a shot

>>1960368
The bowden tube will melt and fuck all your shit up and stink like hell

>>1960395
Its going to be a gearbox from the motor and 2 axles, so it comes out to about 5-6 gear rods and about 20 gears, also going to use this as the heatshield between the gearbox and the motor because PLA won't cut it. I got a 450g roll, probably still have a bunch extra, but I'll double bag it and use a dryer box at work whenever I use it next.

>>1960383
>>1960395
If you want small quantities of nylon you can use trimmer wire. There's a video on it

>>1960397
Wait, are you sure? That shit is teflon, it should take way more than 240c to melt

>>1960399
well, then you're set. just crank up the temperature, completely disable the parts cooling fan, put down some glue stick and watch the first layer. you might have to lower the bed a bit and increase the thickness of the 1st layer just a bit since it wants to go thicker than PLA.

>>1960404
>disable the parts cooling fan
>glue stick
> increase the thickness of the 1st layer
Got it, thanks man!

>>1960407
does the filament manufacturer have the suggested temp on the roll? there should be one. so use that and print a temp tower if you're not sure.
also, you'll have to heat the bed to 80 or whatever they recommend.

>>1960397
>bowden tube
all metal hotend, no ptfe tube here boss.

>>1960403
I'm not going to test it, but everyone says not to go past 235-240 on bowden setups

>>1960409
My bad just read that

>>1960403
>He doesn't like the smell of burning PFTE in the morning
pussy

>>1960408
https://taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html
Yeah, it's all there. Just wanted general nylon tips because I figure even if this stuff is made to be easier to print, if I follow best practices for normal nylon I'll end up being more successful.

What's the next realistic step after pla? Abs? I print mostly functional parts

>>1960445
PETG, then ABS

>>1960445
this is my roadmap to printing functional parts

PLA -> PETG -> Nylon/Polycarbonate -> glass/carbon filled Nylon

>>1960447
>>1960448
Why petg over nylon? Strength? Ease of prints?
I heard petg likes to warp like a bitch.

>>1960450
PETG is the lower end, Nylon's are your bread and butter for functional. PETG has never warped for me.

>>1960140
>>1960169
>>1960184
>>1960207
>>1960222
>>1960222

Six hour break down and rebuild of print and a few hours for printing and alas here we are!
Thank you all for the help

>>1960453
Have some warping here and there but I think it's just too hot

>>1960453
>>1960454
Nice. Did you notice anything different? Any idea what caused it?
>>1960448
>this is my roadmap to printing functional parts
>PLA
Skip PLA completely. It's pointless to print anything functional with it. It's just wasting plastic.

>>1960450
Over abs*

>>1960458
good for prototyping tho

>>1960461
good CAD will find most of the issues. move to PETG immediately after that.

>>1960458
I did not level anything before printing. The C10S has a defect where once it powes off the Z bar misaligns with a tendency to lean to the side that houses the belt moter assembly.

Not only did I tighten the belt, but I also leveled the Zbar and the bed. Further I tightened the printing tip assembly (it sits on three wheels) to prevent any wabbling

>>1960447
>>1960448
>>1960450
You guys ever try ASA? I think I might give it a shot.

All right, I'm back at home and I did manage to separate meshes into separate objects. I googled and it turns out this slicer has a menu option for just that.
I aligned them like this. If I add supports to the main figurine, why won't this work? I've never printed a figurine before...
DLP/SLA would be ideal for this but I don't have one.

>>1960474
With supports, it could work, especially if you put the figurine on top of the base. Also send link pls.

Anyone use DesignSpark Mechanical?
It's free and looks easy enough to use.
Anyone have any problems with it or reasons why one shouldn't use it?

>>1960474
That arm is gonna have a lot of pimples from the supports

>>1960480
Never heard of it. Seems interesting enough. I'll add it to my pile of CAD software and see which workflow I like best.

>>1960476
>With supports, it could work, especially if you put the figurine on top of the base.
Yeah, that would help but then the base would be all fucked up from the supports.
>Also send link pls.
Heh, the Thingiverse page is 404. I grabbed it over 2 months ago and forgot about it.
I'll post it but after I get a successful print. I won't want anyone here beating me to it.
>>1960483
>That arm is gonna have a lot of pimples from the supports
Definitely. It will be all fucked up. I'm now thinking about chopping it off and then printing it upright... No idea how to do that yet.

>Oh? You think cleaning your hot end is a pain? Haha I'll give you plenty of practice

wood PLA looks so good but fuck is it a pain to clean. and it needs to be cleaned after like 2 prints

>>1960491
>the base would be all fucked up from the supports
Tree supports, with supports only from baseplate. You're welcome.

>>1960052
I neither know nor give a fuck what that's for, it's beautiful. i love seeing neat printed things like that

>>1960499
>Tree supports, with supports only from baseplate. You're welcome.
S3D has no tree supports. And Cura has no way of separating objects. I'm fucked either way.
Thanks tho! Tree supports looks like the best way to proceed if I want to keep it in 1 piece.

>>1960497
is it really that bad?

Keep having this problem >>1959648
Now only some rafts stick only to break at the supports, sometimes I even find that whole chunks fell back into the tray after been formed
Is the build plate not rough enough? Should I change the teflon?

>>1960503
It's horrible to clean and needs to be cleaned constantly, but the results are worth it.

>>1960497
>and it needs to be cleaned
what needs to be cleaned? the bed? nozzle?

>>1960504
>Now only some rafts stick only to break at the supports, sometimes I even find that whole chunks fell back into the tray after been formed
is the problem lack of supports?
post some pics of a failed print.

>>1960506
Yes. All of it. The whole goddamned thing, especially the hot end and nozzle.

>>1960508
fuck. I guess sawdust and PLA burn at these temps.
why did you pick wood PLA for printing over something else?

>>1960509
i wanted a cool looking candlestick and i'm a carpenterlet.

>>1960507
I will assume you mean the file, but I will post what the machine printed anyways

desu I have no idea what I am doing most of the time,

>>1960511
I had already removed the print from the plate, it was not this warped when it came out, but there was some warping
Note that here only a single sword printed up to the hilt, then whatever that happened happened

>>1960513
oops, that was another failed print due to a similar problem, here is what stuck to the tray in the swords file

I'd like to print a RasPi 3 case for OctoPrint. I found one on Thingiverse and imported it into Cura. This is what it looks like after I sliced it.
Any obvious flaws?
Few things that bother me...
1) is it a mistake not to have support over those large "holes" in the side of the prints? Can those be bridged with PLA?
2) There are supports on the underside where the screws go in (holes are chamfered and for some reason, Cura added supports)... any idea if I can remove those?
How would you guys print this? This will be my 1st real, post-successful-benchy, print.

how do i tell cura I have two hot ends? my firmware (i3 clone) knows it has two, because it's on the info menu when you boot and I can set it's temp. But in cura, even over USB, i can't see the second one or add it in the printer settings. anyone know how to do this? don't think it's a marlin issue because even with the printer disconnected I still can't add it in cura

>>1960522
>1)
Yes. If you don't support that it will fall in
>2)
Consider removing the chamfer, or just leaving the supports in.

Side note: If you're concerned about the supports being too weird, turn the density/infill down on your supports. That makes them weaker and easier to remove, so just as long as you don't push the envelope too much you can easily make the supports easy to remove and less filament intensive.

>>1960525
Thanks so much anon!
OK, I've turned the supports to "Everywhere" and I've reduced the "Support Density" from 20% to 15%. This is what it looks like now.
Thoughts?

>>1960525
Also, I picked the CHEP Rought profile because if I slice it with Good profile, it takes 5:40min on E3... and 'only' 3:28min with Rough.
It's a case... does it matter if it's rough? I think not.

>>1960131
Isn't 210 C too much for PLA? I can print it on 180 C.

>>1960526
Looks good. Use your slider on the right hand side to check the first probably 15 layers or so to see how the supports print for your chamfer, it should be pretty alright

>>1960529
>CHEP Rough profile
Never heard of it, but for something like this it should be fine. Just make sure that the nozzle size in the slicer and the nozzle on your printer are the same, or else it could cause some problems. I mention this only because "rough" often means pushing plastic through pretty fast and hot, which can mess up your hot end if it's incorrect

>>1960531
depends. overture PLA pro needs 215 to print properly, and I've heard about some people going as low as 175 for some weird filament.

>>1960529
Nice case and yeah I don't think it will matter if you print it on rough settings. Speaking of RPi related things, I just designed this shelf for my table.

>>1960532
Thanks anon! I'm too afraid to hit the print and go to bed. Gonna print tomorrow morning so I can stand by and check on it.
>>1960535
Damn that's nice. My PiHole is currently dangling beneath my desk. Gonna have to print something similar for it too.
BTW, what do you use your RasPi for?
I have two now... second one is gonna be for OctoPrint. OctoPrint seems like the best upgrade for an Ender 3.

>>1960538
Thanks. I have 2 pi's also. Octoprint is too good not to use. I'll install the pi camera so I can do time lapses. I have discord bot plugin that will also take a picture every 10% and post it in a channel. I also use a TPLink smart plug that will power off the printer and pi. It will also power off the printer when the thermal runway protection triggers, so I don't have to worry about it too much unattended. I also have a fire-resistant enclosure for it.

>>1960538
It's a good idea to monitor your prints the first time you do them. i've left a few prints running overnight but usually only after i've done them once and know they'll work

>>1960535
that is going to be a ridiculously hard thing to print in pretty much any orientation unless you have insane amounts of support

>>1960524
i figured it out, i guess you can't modify the default print parms, so i had to make a new "custom" machine to add another extruder (you can add up to 8 in the software)

>>1960542
>(you can add up to 8 in the software)
jesus fuck, what monstrosity has 8 extruders

>>1960539
yes, Pi camera is what I need as well. totally forgot about it.
something like this? it's only a couple of bucks on chinkshit sites. apparently it does 1080p and you can connect through OctoPrint and check up on your print and like you mentioned make timelapses.
I need to get a smart plug too. Seems like a good idea. Didn't even know OctoPrint can cut off power like that. That's actually pretty clever.
Do you run any other OctoPrint plugins? I know fuck-all about it beyond the few tutorials I saw.
>>1960541
I need to buy a fire extinguisher.

>>1960547
>I need to buy a fire extinguisher.
been printing for like 2 years now and not once has anything caught on fire. that's very unlikely to happen imo

>>1960542
Yeah It's printing vertically with supports, but I think I could have done without. My temp towers have no issues bridging, but I rather not risk it.

>>1960547
Yup that's exactly the one. You might need a longer cable if you're not mounting the pi right next to the printer.

Octoprint needs the tplink smartplug specifically to power on and off, with the plugin. There's a firmware update for the plug you need to avoid if you plan on getting one. The other plugins I have are just some UI changes for the web page.

>>1960552
>been printing for like 2 years now and not once has anything caught on fire. that's very unlikely to happen imo
I have no fire extinguisher of any kind. I think it's a good idea to have something.
I did update my firmware and don't run the fire-hazard garbage that Creality ships with so at least that's something.
>>1960553
Thanks for the tips anon! Once I convert over to OctoPrint I'll report my progress.

>>1960553
i would have imagined printing vertically with such thin lines would have caused some serious sagging, maybe it's just my printer. my shit always sags when i build tall without support

>>1960403
At around 230-235 it starts to give off toxic gas that's been known to kill small birds and harm pets, it can't be good for humans either. If you're printing at those temperatures you should be using a full metal hot end.

ENDER 5 PLUS OWNER

WHY THE HELL IS MY Y AXIS MOTOR BEING SO DAMN ANNOYING

I AM GOING TO KILL MYSELF OVER THIS SMALL ISSUE

In all seriousness, however, it has a deep vibration accompanying the noise whenever the motor moves on the y axis. The motor is also super hot, unlike the X axis motor. Any ideas as to why this might be the case?

>>1960566
Did you replace a magnetic bed with glass?

>>1960453
Looking good. 210 is on the hot side of PLA, try lowering it in increments of 5, I typically print 195 for detailed models and 205 for structural parts. 5 degrees can make a surprising difference in visual quality.
As for that big band round the middle of it, which direction did it face on the bed? Might be one of your belts is still not quite tight enough.

>>1960562
I had that problem too, but after I put in a new fan duct the cooling improved significantly. I could bridge at 225C.

do you think spess mous is worth it if i make 3d prints from CADs a lot?
Or everyone here too poor and never used this thing?

>>1960586
If you know how to use one (there is a learning curve) and you use CAD every single day, sure. They're neat and they do speed up workflow, but some people hate them. I have mine at home for my desktop setup, but my laptop at work doesn't have one, and I can teach CAD just fine without.

>>1960586
No, I use my mx518 from like 13 years ago. Works fine and I would probably buy something similar if it broke.

>>1960587
Would be cool if you could use something like an old Wiimote nun chuck to control it

>>1960586
I love mine, it makes things a lot easier

>>1960590
VR CAD

>>1960510
>i wanted a cool looking candlestick and i'm a carpenterlet.
Can you post a pic of what it looks like? I'm curious now!

>>1960038
This.
Its free and can do anything.

>>1959991
If you need help doing measurements ask away

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33030542556.html?

any opinions about prusa clones? looks kinda nice from the little ive heard

>>1960619
>buying from the chinese instead of based Prusa
Cringe

>>1960622
that kinda sounds like an endorsement

>>1960566
did you check the vref voltage and if the y-belt has some kind of resistance?
>>1960586
I have one at work and really only use it if I present something, doing smooth, nice looking camera movements. for the cad work itself I stick to KB+m, is faster

>>1960629
I don't know anything about the quality of those knock offs, I'm just not a big fan of supporting chinese copy cats

>>1960519
what are your settings and what type of resin are you using? do you use dry PTFE lubricant?

>>1960619

Would you prefer a Geely or a Mercedes?

>>1960663
Idk I just got the geely tho

>>1960619
Just like the rest of chinkshit, absolute garbage. Any other questions?

Is the Mars 2 Pro worth an extra hundred bucks over the Mars Pro?

>>1960619
Just buy an Ender 3. Prusa is overpriced trash and constantly shill here.

Anyone here a wizard with fusion360?

I want to create a parametric model, and as an intermediate step, create an arbitrary number of these 'loops'. Which I'm using a rectangular pattern for (the output is a number of bodies, rather than one joined body even if they intersect).

The next steps requires me to select ALL of these loops (separate bodies), so I can boolean them together.

The problem is, as far as I know, selection isn't put on the timeline, meaning if I complete the next step with, let's say 5 loops, and then go back and change the variable 'number of loops' to 7, only the first 5 will be selected and not 7.

This seems like it should be a fairly common problem, so is there a solution?

>>1960636
Chitubox's default settings for the Photon, worked before >>1959587

>do you use dry PTFE lubricant?
I don't even know what that it

>>1960798
Boolean, you mean combine?
No way to do that, I suggest you find another way to combine them.

>>1960904
The boolean operation in Fusion360 allows you to join bodies together, counter intuitive, I know.

The problem here is selecting all loops, so once my design is complete, I can change "number of loops" variable and have the final product update.

At the moment, because selection isn't tied to the timeline, the timeline will be based around whatever number of loops I did the action with initially.

>>1960798
>The next steps requires me to select ALL of these loops
You need to use a linear repeating pattern from a single loop solid and underplate section. So your starting model only includes the first and second loop, and the single underplate section that connects them (or sticks out past the second loop if that's your preference.
The linear pattern sets the repeated spacing and quantity of the selected solids and has a combine function.

>>1960904
>>1960913
Oops, it appears they renamed it a long time ago. Boundary fill is what I'm referring to.

>>1960914
I have the linear pattern nailed, it's the combining part it doesn't seem to do.

>>1960798
Why don't you join them together when making a pattern? It's the easiest way.
Otherwise you can make some extrude or revolve,... that goes through all the loops and join them together. And Fusion will automatically select all bodies.
Make this somewhere where there already is the material, so at the end this feature is not seen at all.

>>1960920
It doesn't seem to join them together when making a pattern, even if I deliberately intersect them.

>Otherwise you can make some extrude or revolve,... that goes through all the loops and join them together.

I think this will work, thanks a lot

>>1960923
>>1960920
The extrude sounded good on paper, but Fusion refuses to update the new body when I change the loop number, instead creating multiple bodies.

Think this is basically a bug and I assume there are no other options.

>>1960917
Ain't that just the same as "combine"?
But yeah, since those things are already touching I'm pretty sure the only way to do it is extrude a connecting shape through them and make the length of that extrusion be defined by the parameter you use.

>>1960927
Ridiculously, Fusion doesn't combine after a linear pattern. I think it's a limit of their engine, since I tried the extrude trick (extrusion set to match the new length, when I increase the number of loops) and it doesn't update, instead creating new bodies (rather than just joining them all together).

>>1960927
>>1960926
Oh nvm extrude doesn't work then.
Well what is the purpose of your part? for 3d printing the pieces don't have to be a single body as long as you save it as an STL from a higher directory like the main directory for example, they'll all be joined together in the STL

>>1960932
I wanted them to be one body so that I could distort the overall shape.

I realize now that without timeline selection, I can't do a load of other things (like modify the first and last loop specifically). So I guess I'll have to find a few workarounds.

>>1960586
It's a minor convenience. Get one if you think you'll get a lot of use out of it and wont miss the money, but they're not a game changer by any means. I picked up a spacemouse pro second hand on ebay for £70 and I don't regret it, but I wouldn't want to pay full price for one.

>>1960904
>>1960914
>>1960920
>>1960927
>>1960932
Thanks for you help anyway

>>1960931
If it doesn't update, try Modify->Compute All (or CTRL+B). If it works similar to solidworks, it should update.

>>1960917
>I have the linear pattern nailed, it's the combining part it doesn't seem to do.
It doesn't have an "All Bodies" option at all?

>>1960949
No luck, I'm afraid. Which is silly because if I click on the extrude operation in the timeline, it then updates.

>>1960953
Doesn't seem so.

>>1960956
Maybe you should pattern as Features?
First you would need to make that connecting rail -the whole length you need, then you make a loop (extrude or revolve with Join) then make feature pattern.
I think in this case pattern features/bodies should not intersect with eachother but only with the rail

>>1960524
why dont you use a PrusaSlicer with an i3? it's a superior slicer and especially for Prusa machines.

>>1960965
>it's a superior slicer
no it is not, rather a a shitty one
>for Prusa machines
shitty slicer for shitty printers, that one is fitting

>>1960586
No. I've been doing CAD work for over a decade at this point and the things are more irritating than anything. Their target audience seems to be people who are fundamentally unable to use hotkeys and use the mouse to do every single function in a program.

>>1959679
>SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1
Anyone have the Creality 3D LD-002H? I want to buy an SLA printer for printing Warhammer. The Creality I mentioned has a monochrome screen which is meant to be better than the regular LCD, I'm thinking about buying it over the ELEGOO / Anycubic

>>1960969
>dat butthurt
keep on using chinkshit, brainlet

I have never 3d printed anything before and I've been sent a 3d model for a part I need to print (it's a piece of motorbike fairing). When I load the model in Cura it gives a warning that the model is not uniform. Does this look like it would cause any issues? I went through the print preview layer by layer and it doesn't seem like there's any gaps or anything. Also in general if you have any tips on printing this part, what printer settings to use etc., I'd appreciate it.

>>1961026
It looks like your model is improperly formed, probably having open faces or something like that. If the layers for the highlighted areas look fine, don't worry.
>I have never 3d printed anything before
Try a couple of smaller test stuff first:

A test print with several different features that can go wrong like overhangs, bridges, and a scale test:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295

3DBenchy is also a very common sample, and it looks pretty:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

This calibration cube is a simple 2x2x2cm model that should help you tune in your distances and can help diagnose a few other problems like elephant's foot and ringing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865

>>1961026
>not manifold
that means the solid is not "watertight"
https://support.shapeways.com/hc/en-us/articles/360007107674-Tips-for-successful-modeling
It wasn't properly exported or created. it won't print well and will produce errors in print.
It is recommended that you fix it.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/identifying-and-repairing-common-mesh-errors/

Also, is the backside of that model flat? you could greatly improve the print if you could lay it flat on one side.

Been encountering some issues with my MK2S PINDA sensor causing layer inconsistencies, is the new superPINDA a drop in replacement and if not, how much work would installing it require? The Prusa shop does not sell it as a replacement but I wonder if that is just because it does not fit in the same slot. As long as I don't have to mess with the electronics I'm fine.
MK2S PINDA probe
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk2mk2s/127-pinda-probe-v1.html
SuperPINDA probe
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/spare-parts/1396-superpinda.html

>>1961034
>tune in your distances
wrong

>>1961058
>help

>>1961056
>The Prusa shop does not sell it as a replacement
This could be because they just announced it within the past week. AFAIK it should be a drop-in replacement but it's worth contacting their support chat to check. They even have good english

>>1961056
why not switch to a bl-touch?

>>1961063
Yeah I'll have to ask if it is compatible, the older MK3S sensor was not mentioned to be compatible with the MK2S back when that was still sold.

>>1961066
I'm not sure if it is any better + it's not automatically compatible and I'm pretty busy + the official models are pretty expensive.

>>1961067
>>1961063
Oh wait what the heck this help chat is way too convenient why'd I ever post here lol

>>1960038
>>1960606
thanks. I am trying it right now, but somehow I cannot make it auto-align stl and step.
Can you give any help?
This software is really not intuitive for me

>>1961069
glass bed > *

>>1961081
huh?

>>1961056
>drop in replacement
proof that prusas are for pussies

>>1961082
cant use PINDA on glass bed

What's the smallest nozzle I can go with PLA?

>>1961073
Select all your mesh surfaces (actual) and all cad surfaces (nominal) with Ctrl+A. You can select parts of your mesh and compare but you dont need that i think. For now select all.
Then operations\alignment\main alignment\local best fit if your parts are close like your pic.
If they are far apart then operations\alignment\initial alignment\prealignment then do a local best fit
If your parts are aligned and you dont want to do any alignment, you still have to tell the program they are aligned by operations\alignment\initial alignment\set aligned

To compare all surfaces in 3D: inspection\CAD comparison\any option in this submenu works (the results are projected on the selected option)
To compare stuff in section: inspection\CAD comparison\inspection section

You might wanna hide stuff in the elements tree to show the results you just made, then you can inspection\deviation label to get point measurements.

>>1961088
If it's not anything special like (x)fill or glitter or whatever, as small as you got

>>1961091
Isn't there some kind of limit to the improvement vs. increased time? I forget exactly.

>>1961089
Thanks. I am going to try that tomorrow.
I am trying to do prealignment atm, but is taking a lot of time. Tomorrow I will pre-align them by eye, before I import them in Gom and try your way.

>>1960274
>how well does it work?
Took it for a test ride today for a walk around the block. Said walk included buying a wider and taller weatherstrip, which ended up fitting better and sealing better.
It's a bitch to put on, I might print a backpack buckle or something like that.

>>1961109
that looks fucking great but I'm worried about filtration of those makeup pads.
3M has a half-face mask that accepts proper P100 pads. any idea if anyone has copied that system? I'd trust that a lot more.
also, ever cast your own silicone? it's not hard. You could 3d print a proper "seal" in PLA and then cast it in silicone.

>>1961113
>I'm worried about filtration of those makeup pads
I'm considering replacing them with proper filtering material if I get my hands on some
>3M has a half-face mask that accepts proper P100 pads
I know mate, I've been trying to get them since January and they were already fucking sold out, between the pandemic and my stupid government fucking imports.
>any idea if anyone has copied that system? I'd trust that a lot more.
Actually, a sister project of the mask I used is 3M-compatible, and I'm considering using it next:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4284829
And for P100 proper, you have yet another sister mask:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4444363

>>1961121
Nice.
BTW, P100 filters can still be bought from China for $10 or less. Yes, they're chiense but they're WAY BETTER than cotton pads. Cotton sucks shit for filtering particulate matter.
Polypropylene is the shit and the thing that actually works.
Order some 3M compatible P100 filters. In the meantime, take a few surgical masks (they're plentiful almost everywhere) and cut them up in round pieces and stuff those chambers with them. Surgical masks are made with polypropylene so a few of them will be much better than cotton.

>>1961087
Why would I use a glass bed?
>>1961085
>hurrr
I've had my life's worth of jank already and am having more each and every day, I do not need any more and am willing to pay for it.

>>1961096
Well, you asked 'can', not 'should'. It all depends on how detailed you want your print to be, how detailed the original model is, and how many slopes there are

>>1961139
>am willing to pay for it.
Just pay for your parts then, why even bother with the printer.

>>1961096
>>1961148
I wish they made these the same size but you can still see the difference on e.g. the teeth, hood, and shaft of the scythe

>>1961148
>>1961150
Thanks, I actually just finished watching that exact video. I guess I'll buy some cheap 0.25mm to play around with to see if it's worth it or not.

>>1961162
Save yourself some money, get a pack:

amazon.com/gp/product/B013VBTM80

Comes with a bunch of sizes AND is cheaper than getting them individually - it's around 6 for the price of 5 I think.

>>1961009
prusa IS a chinkshit, retard, just an overpriced one. Made by soviet workers with shitty work ethics from chinese crap. Fabulous!

>>1961046
>>1961034
thanks for the replies. I decided to give a try fixing the model, after several hours of messing around in Blender (never used that before either) I think I finally managed to fix it with the "make manifold" option in Blender's 3D print toolbox add-on.

>Also, is the backside of that model flat? you could greatly improve the print if you could lay it flat on one side.
no, it's slightly convex with a raised lip on one edge so it don't think that'd work.

>>1961149
I get way more value for my time with a printer mine own, there is no way I could have learned to do what I do, be capable of what I am now, if I did not own a printer myself.

>>1961185
The worst part about your post is equating the miniature Germany that happens to speak a Slavic language with the rest of eastern Europe.
Pro tip: they are not the same.

>>1961172
Yeah maybe I'll get an assortment since I've been making more functional parts.

>all those cheap 3d printers on aliexpress
>no seller ships to my country

>>1961217
chinks will ship anywhere, where are you?

Printed my first Benchy ever tonight and I am very pleased. Took some fiddeling to get the first layer to stick properly but after that it printed real nice if slow.

Gonna try and print a little jig for drilling holes tomorrow.

>>1961190
So by that logic, it's more rewarding to own an Ender over a Prusa. Thanks for proving my point.

>>1961240
Not that anon, but surely you understand there's a difference between servicing a junker vs. building a kit car vs. getting a chauffeur to drive you around

>>1961244
Prusa shills are something else lol

>>1961228
nice
printer?

>>1960808
>>1960636
Actually, Now I remember that with the tank I made the file entirely on Photon's slicer, not Chitubox. I remade the file entirely on Photon and it seems like it is printing fine now. I like Chitubox more, but it seems like the settings are different, so I will check and change those later

>>1961221
Brazil

Pls come to Brazil

>>1961314
Did you check banggood?

what's the best type of nozzle for an all metal hotend? I'm upgrading standard Ender3 hotend to move away from PTFE so I'd like to get a new nozzle too. what's the most versitile one to upgrade to? are chinkshit good or bad?
also, why are hardened steel nozzles literally 10x more expensive than stainless steel ones?

>>1961343
People here will say the Chinese ones wear out faster and are made poorly then tell you to buy E3D ones, but I got 10 for $10 and the quality is amazing and have had no issues so far.

>>1961354
E3D seems like a bargain to some of this shit I've been searching... LOL...check this out.

>>1961358
and this

>>1961359
this is apparently the ultimate and comes in a small case that jewelry usually comes in.

>>1960566
check resistance between windings. there are two sets of coils, on mine the resistance is about 2.5ohms each, it could be that your coils have shorted or maybe even opened slightly? that's always been my issue. also check continuity on your cables to the stepper.

bros anyone else here use freecad and kicad on arch? they fucked up the dependencies and now i can't use freecad to make parts anymore because of some stupid opencascade shit. the bugtracker has been open since the 18th and they still haave'nt fixed it. what the fuck?


>>1960586
more of a cad thing than a 3d print thing. depends on how often you are making drawings

>>1961369
>bros anyone else here use freecad and kicad on arch? they fucked up the dependencies and now i can't use freecad to make parts anymore because of some stupid opencascade shit. the bugtracker has been open since the 18th and they still haave'nt fixed it. what the fuck?
Arch here as well. What's even worse is that they don't even have 0.19 but 0.18 in the repo. 0.18 is ancient garbage and everyone uses 0.19 now. but you can't use it on Arch easily.

>>1961371
yea i grabbed the appimage but honestly have no interest in installing/running it since they're like the antithesis of keeping software up to date/current with the system

>>1961373
same! plus appimages have limitations (local file access) and easily lose data.
fuck appimage and fuck flatpak and especially fuck snaps.

>>1961373
>>1961374
this is the branch you want.

>>1961358
>>1961359
>>1961362
Depends on what material you want to print with. I'm just doing PLA with these.

>>1961389
>I'm just doing PLA with these.
well, I have very little use for PLA these days. I usually print parts for quad/drones and you can't use PLA for that (way too brittle).
and when I print for others, I print in PETG/ABS because I don't want them to come back and complain how my prints suck and I ripped them off.

>>1961394
>print parts for quad/drones
That's pretty cool. I'm probably going to build one eventually. I'm looking into using ASA, but doesn't seem like many people here have experience with it.

>>1961395
for quads you want some formulation of nylon. and also TPU for bumpers and various mounts.
I tried ABS but that too easily shatters... you want something that's impact resistant.
polycarboante is cool as fuck too but I can't print polycarbonate with my current setup.

>>1961397
Lots of hotends on sale right now on aliexpress

>>1961400
>Lots of hotends on sale right now on aliexpress
way ahead of you bro... I ordered all metal on 11.11. kek
that's why I'm looking for suitable nozzle. have no idea what to pick. don't mind spending $15 on a nozzle if it's gonna make my life easier.
I'm hoping someone here who prints a lot and has tried all the cool shit has some advice.
I'm also looking at these nozzles. but I just can't make a decision... no idea which one of them is actually worth the expense.

>>1961402
If you have a glass bed I highly recommend staying away from steel nozzles. If the steel nozzle crashes into the bed then you'll fuck up the bed, with brass you'll only fuck the nozzle.
Also since brass is easier to machine the quality of aliexpress brass nozzles tends to be more or less consistent between sellers. I have some brass ones from ali in a range of sizes and while they're not nearly as good as the nozzles from creality they do well enough and do not introduce much artifacting. They do string a bit more though.

How do you guys handle filament that binds up during printing? I was watching my print to see if the extruder was strong enough to pull it through, but it started under extruding so I intervened.

>>1961424
Do the hotend fix

>>1961427
It's not the hotend, it's the filament. The roll has some overlaps that make it hard for the extruder to pull through

>>1961424
You mean if the filament tangles up?
No fix for that one, it's all up to how lucky you are with your spool. I've seen flawless spools and I've seen spools so badly tangled up that you couldn't print shit from them without untangling it by hand as the printer worked.

Is this style of extruder + hotend combo good? Never seen it before except on the microswiss.

>>1961430
Yeah, damn that sucks. Literally the only thing that's stopping me from leaving it unattended without too much worry.

>>1961432
link? it's hard to tell what the specs are from a pic alone. looks like a BMG with some kind of a AMHE.

>>1961408
thanks anon. I'm actually leaning towards copper plated nozzle with anti-stick coating.

>>1961428
Then the filament has shit dimensions, it should be circular and constant diameter. If it has variance in diameter then you will get variance in extrusion and even get binding.
I'd suggest getting a geared extruder giving force from two sides instead of the shitty idle gear system in the stock ones

>>1961440
I think he's complaining about the filament not being wound properly so it gets caught up on itself.
I've had one roll of a filament that was shit wound like that. It was an absolute nightmare. Had to rewound it on an empty spool.
>>1961434
Got an empty spool?

>>1961436
Sorry I closed it and it took me a minute to find it again

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001742073635.html

>>1961444
Yes this is the problem. I don't have an empty one, but I do have one that's about 10% finished. Do you suggest I re-roll it some how?

>>1961448
>about 10% finished
10% until finished

Btw if you're still using metal spatulas or if your plastic spatula is too thick, cut a piece of plastic from this type of packaging. It's the best spatula I've ever used and will never damage the print or bed. Once you can get a corner or tiny edge off the bed, you slip the plastic in and every thing pops right off.

>>1961448
I used an empty roll of paper towels once as a temporary rewind spool. I was desperate so I basically unwound the shit filament onto it and then wound it back onto the spool. took like 30 min to do but I had no choice.
you could transfer the 10% filament onto an empty tube or something like that and then just use that empty spool for the shitty filament...

>>1961447
hey anon, that looks like a Mosquito knockoff with an integrated BMG knockoff. I think it's a good idea since they're all metal so the BMG will act as a massive heatsink. Never seen this model before... looks very interesting. Also, it comes with stepper for that price which is pretty great.
if you wanna take gamble on a new product, go for it. you do have other options tho... but slightly more expensive if you want AMHE + extruder.

>>1961451
I was hoping you wouldn't say that. I guess I'll have to rig something up to spool it faster

>>1961452
Yeah I think I might give it a shot. It looks decent and for $60 it's worth it if it does work out.

>>1961453
I saw one guy on YT build a manual crank-style contraption to wind his own filament but that seems like a waste for a one-off situation.

>>1961454
Both of those are proven designs and given that BMG is metal, it won't fail like those cheap plastic clones. Mosquito clone is also proven and works well. That heat break is the same as the break on a Mosquito clone that I have (it's a thin piece of surgical stainless steel). I don't see why this wouldn't work but who knows... it's a new product. Definitely worth the shot.

>>1961450
Hmm... I have some bubble packaging that's relatively straight. Would that work? What kind of a shape did you cut it in? What about the handle?

>>1961458
Just a card shape. As long as it's thin and won't tear, you can slip it under and slide it around the print.

>>1961457
For sure. I picked it up along with an extension cable, filament break module and some extra belts for $66. Pretty insane deal.

>>1961462
Something I forgot about was the cooling. I should be able to reuse all the stock parts right? And maybe find a shroud or something for it?

>>1961462
>Pretty insane deal.
Definitely. That's over $200 in original parts and original BMG isn't even all metal.
>>1961463
You can 3D print a shroud if you need it for parts cooling. Notice that the BMG part has screw threads for a fan so you can re-use it.
If you're printing non-PLA filaments, you don't even need a parts fan.... most people use these setups for PETG/ASA/ABS/Nylon anyway.

>>1961461
thanks anon. gonna make one.
metal spatulas are also a cut hazard. it's incredibly easy to cut yourself with one.

>>1961466
Awesome, thanks anon. Yeah I'm getting the hang of PLA and wanting to move to stronger materials and fancy exotic filament.

>>1961468
I just had an idea to try plastic poker cards. I think they would be the perfect size and they are made to be very slippery for casino tables.

>>1961455
I think I will find a box and cut a groove for a dowel. Then I can load up the spool and drop it in. I just wonder if I rewind the spool manually and end up making it worse lol

>>1961479
try it. you can't make it worse if it's constantly getting stuck.
just go slow and let it go from one end to the other when you start winding it onto the new spool.

>>1961089
>operations\alignment\main alignment\local best fit
Local best fit with everything selected didn't do anything. I have then made crossection line and then used best fit. It seemed to work. Like in this video at 9:50 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUePOJRQqLo&t=366s

Do you know if it is possible to make some deviation distribution chart or something like that, so I could compare and evaluate different gears?
And also is it possible to import multiple step files and then compare them each to stl file? Or to quickly interchange step files?

A little explanation of what I am trying to do: I have a non-standard gear, that was measured. Data was in dxf file, but I have now turned that into STL file. Because I do not have any information on the gear parameters, I will design multiple gears (in step format), each with a little bit different parameters. Then I want to compare them all to that STL file. And find which fits the best.

What the fuck is this? What kind of a hotend is this? I don't think this uses filament...

>>1961493
It's probably a pellet extruder.

>>1961493
>>1961494
Is this the next venture in cheap 3dp gadgets? Ender style filament makers?

>>1961493
>>1961494
>>1961497
One of the early Mahor pelletextruder, they're for printer directly out of pellets. I've got one on order, as well as a Dyze Pulsar. I'll post some pics once I get home tonight, I'm pretty sure I've got (what is going to be) the biggest printer in 3DP.

>>1961497
Nope, filament making is an industrial process that has tight bounds on diameter variance. It's very ill-suited to home gamer setups.

>>1961497
I don't think this is filament maker.
This is extruder you mount on 3d printer. Instead of usual extruder that melts filament, this one melts pellets.
This would be really cool if it would go mainstream, because pellets are like 1€/kg if you buy 25kg bag. But as far as I know they have problem with maintaining proper flow of material.

>>1961501
>But as far as I know they have problem with maintaining proper flow of material.
The problem isn't maintaining flow - it's stopping. There's no filament to pull on, so you can't do retracts, travel moves, etc. and that's a PITA for modern slicing software.

>>1961500
>>1961501
Damn that sounded like a cool idea. Having a bunch of different raw materials and making your own blends.

>>1961502
Really? I thought it was flow + trapped air making problems.
Couldn't there be some small ball in a nozzle, that would be pushed against or moved away from the nozzle with some electromagnet?
Or some needle through the center of extruder, that would close the nozzle?
What is the cost of these extruders?
And what size printer do you plan to do? Will you do ball screws on all axis?

>>1961501
>because pellets are like 1€/kg if you buy 25kg bag
Not sure where the fuck you live m8 but those pellets are hard as fuck to find. So far I've yet to find a european seller that has them.

>>1961510
>>1961510
>Really? I thought it was flow + trapped air making problems.
Nah, the industry has pellet extrusion pretty well sorted out due to injection molding machines.
>Couldn't there be some small ball in a nozzle, that would be pushed against or moved away from the nozzle with some electromagnet?
I don't see why not, go make your own. I'd pay for it. However, professional pellet hotends are still upwards up 10K (Dyze is the first I know to go below that), and development will be an order of magnitude more.
>Or some needle through the center of extruder, that would close the nozzle?
>What is the cost of these extruders?
Around 1000USD if you want the latest Mahor, which is really consumer-tier, Reprap-tier. Dyze is coming in at 8K USD, and others are much, much more expensive.
>And what size printer do you plan to do? Will you do ball screws on all axis?
220x150x120, I managed to procure an old picking robot. This is a school project, so it'll do fine. Ball screws are slow, this thing will be using belts.

>>1961536
>220x150x120
2200x1500x1200mm. Derp.

What is a good solution for air scrubbing/filtration when printing stuff like nylon/abs?

>>1961251

Ender 3 V2

>>1961541
An open window and the room not being the part of the building you live in

>>1961524
I don't know. I haven't researched this lately.
But a couple years ago, when PEI surfaces was starting to get popular and were sold out almost everywhere, I was looking for alternatives. So I searched for local distributor of plastic granulates that sells PEI granulate and I found one. At first they wanted me to buy 25kg bag for I think 20€/kg, but at the end they somehow gave me 0.5kg for free.
So, I assume they would also sell me 25kg bag of ABS for good price. Maybe not exactly1€/kg.

>>1961536
>the industry has pellet extrusion pretty well sorted out
But those are long screws and expensive. I meant something that can be put on 3d printer. That Mahor looks interesting to me pricewise. If this one's only problem is (non)retraction and has flow as precise as normal 3d printer extruder, then I will consider it for my next build. Will you write about it when you get it?
I was thinking balls screws with pitch of 20mm, which is a half of travel/revolution as usual gt2 20t pulley. So motors would need to spin only twice as fast. But I didn't mean to go that big. More like 600x600x600mm

>>1961548
Is it really that bad? I've seen people with DIY solutions. Some really shitty setups like cpu fan + gas mask filter in the enclosure.

>>1961550
>More like 600x600x600mm
At that point I'd still stick to a V6 Supervolcano instead.

>>1961552
A particle filter won't filter out gases, only particles

New Thread
>>1961566

>>1961492
Nice find on that youtube video. Not sure why the best-fit didnt work. The dude is selecting areas (red) for use in best fit. Did your mesh turn all red before best-fit? Maybe you have to select your actual and nominal in the element tree too. I cant recall it.

You can right click on colorbar/show histogram. Not sure how you can save the histogram other than an image. If you created deviation labels, like on your pic. You can click on TABLE in the left top corner of the 3D view to show and export those measurements.

Yes you can import multiple stuff. If the alignments are okay, otherwise you need to do alignments every time (this is a limitation of the free version). If you are doing a new alignment make sure you delete the previous one because over time they will accumulate and take a lot of time to recalculate. Just import your CAD models or STL files. Select the actual mesh you want to compare in your element tree and the surfaces as well (like the youdube video or ctrl+A to select everything). And do the compariosn, but in the dialog, chose a different nominal CAD model in the cad group drop down menu.

>>1960798
>>1961919

>>1961369
how does anyone use that app? it seems like every time i open it, the whole thing wants to fuck me over in any way possible