/diy/ - Do It Yourself

there's like fuckin 50 versions of the ender 3. aside from quiet drivers to keep myself from going batty, what do I actually want in an ender kit?
extruder? hotend? should I expect to upgrade those asap or just use them until they break?

What's /3dpg/ printing?
I'm making a lamp shade to replace the crummy POS IKEA paper one I've got right now. Wish I could get my CIA flavor PLA to play nice with a .3mm nozzle which I'm printing this with. Vase mode. Means the walls are .3mm and no bottom layers either.

>>1944912
Forgot picture. Shittu crop to avoid fucked file limit.

>>1944906
the set with silent steppers and glass bed - or skip the silent board and order a skr mini v2 right away
>upgrade
keep it stock until you run into limits and upgrade according to your needs
>>1944912
iteration after iteration of rc car parts. the fusion slicer doesn't come with a lot of options but for that it puts out good quality

>>1944906
Bed springs, wingnuts and then the basic printable upgrades like filament guides and whatnot.

Anyone here have experience with 3d printing molds?
I'm looking at doing some resin casting, but I'd really need at least two parts to the mold to get the desired geometry.

>>1944906
buy the cheapest (i.e. plain Ender 3)
learn how to use it and upgrade as needed.
do not waste money buying the latest and greatest... improvements in print, the shit that actually matters, is not that much better (sometimes even worse).
you can fine-tune Ender 3 to produce prints that rival $1000 printers.

>>1944892
Auto bed leveling... which probe/type do you guys use? I'd like to automate my probing (got sick of fiddling with knobs and wasting filament on 'bed leveling patterns') and I'd like to add a probe.
I can't decide which probe to get tho... what do you guys use?

>>1944934
>>1944955
>>1944960
thank you, seems about what I expected.

>>1944965
np
good luck and keep lurking on here and see what others are doing and keep printing. once you run into issues, ask questions and learn.
buying some super-duper expensive Ultimaker or Prusa won't make you a great 3d print expert. people don't understand that 3d printing is not like printing on paper. it's not push button. there's so many variables that you need to tune and you need to develop intuition on how to get the result you want. expensive printers won't help you with that.
what's even more important than printer itself is the filament and knowing how to setup your printer to use it.

good luck.

>>1944967
Yeah, it's more comparable to a CNC router than a paper printer.

My dampers have finally arrived! Gonna install them finally to reduce the noise. Anyone else have them installed? From vids I've seen, they make a huge difference.

>>1944964
I use a precision piezo and it works great but I've not touched my printer in a long time. Is there a better alternative now?

>>1944989
Has any poorfag like me tried printing dampers instead?

>>1945015
>Has any poorfag like me tried printing dampers instead?
A set of them from china is like $5. I can't see how you can print them since they're metal and rubber.

>>1945019
>from china
I have several problems with that. Even if we took out the part where I have a deep distaste of giving tax money to the communist guerilla that currently occupies mainland China, my current government (headed by communist ex-guerrillas) is closing international trade more and more by the day. Part of why I bought a 3D printer (a couple of months ago, when it was already shitty but not as shitty as now) was to avail myself with otherwise unobtainable bits and bobs and hardware, only needing filament, which can be produced here, even if mediocrely.

>I can't see how you can print them since they're metal and rubber
My question was precisely about using 3d-printed polymer motor mounts instead of metal and rubber dampers. If you printed the very same piece, you wouldn't get the same performance (else you would see more injection-molded dampers), but you'd get less noise than mounting them directly to the frame.

>>1945025
appreciate the anti-china sentiment but there's no fucking way to avoid them. almost everything is made there and shit that's labeled as not made there, usually is and they just lie about it (that's what "made from global components" or "assembled in XYZ" means).
when you're buying direct from china, at least you're avoiding the middle-man tax and parasites that profit from reselling and inserting themselves in the middle of the transaction. I hate these parasites more than CCP.
maybe you could find NEMA 17 dampers locally in your county. I have no idea about the 3d-printed stepper motor dampers. worth researching and printing. go try it and post results.... should be a worth-while endeavor.

>>1945027
Fuck you. Yes, there is you retard.
Make it yourself if possible.
Buy local if it must be bought.
We can cut down on 80% of Chink shit with these two simple cost saving measures.

>>1945025
>>1945015
TPU+ABS should do you fine if you don't plan on using them at high temps. They bond well

>>1945025
>>1945027
>>1945069
>printed on my Ender 3 that's made in China
>with filament that's made in China
Why do you retards always make things political? If you were smart you would realize the CEO and board members are the ones who moved everything overseas. Now go back to printing dragon dildos.

Honestly, more people outside of China getting printers (or at least access to) is probably going to be the death knell for the CCP. They've been cooking the books for a long time already (The unpopulated "tofu building" cities, for instance). The new Chinese middle class WILL NOT accept another "great leap forward". The plastic trinket industry has no reason to be 100% Chinese.

>>1945083
Printers are good for prototyping, but for mass production you need injection moulding. It's just too fast; and with The only printers that can offer part quality similar to an injection mould being a resin printer the cost of resin makes that not worthwhile either.

>>1945085
The difference is that you can print up the exact number of a given product that the market actually wants.
If there's a flaw in the design, it can be caught quickly and fixed without having to dump hundreds of thousands of defective ones.

>>1945079
I usually really hate stirring shit up for the hell of it, but it'd be too funny not to mention Prusas, which AFAIK are as locally sourced as possible

How to print TPU / TPE reliably without a direct drive

>>1945083
can't do electronics or anything really interesting with a 3d printer. ok, some people print toy circuits with conductive filament but that's all just for play.
problem is that everything people want/need has some electronics inside. and all that's coming from china.

>>1945116
>How to print TPU / TPE reliably without a direct drive
dual drive gear extruder.

>>1945117
The US is poised to surpass China in the extraction of rare earth minerals in the near future.
It's not like the Western world is lacking in resources or well educated/industrious people. We just need to stop incentivizing markets to produce garbage in China (Or any other authoritarian shithole, for that matter).

>>1945120
>It's not like the Western world is lacking in resources or well educated/industrious people. We just need to stop incentivizing markets to produce garbage in China (Or any other authoritarian shithole, for that matter).
With China Joe in the WH, that won't happen.

>>1945121
That clusterfuck is far from over.

>>1945122
I hope you're right anon. It's depressing af. Hope we get 4 more years.
Anyway, I'm printing this... a guitar pick holder. Should be done tonight.

>>1945123
The issue is that it's all being set up so that if the fraud is proven in court and Trump wins, they already have all the pieces in play to claim that he's "stealing" the election and the people whose only source of news is headlines on twitter (and not even looking at the content of the articles) will flip their collective shit.
You might have to put down an actual coup d'état.
I really do wish you guys luck. If your republic truly dies, there is no more hope left for the rest of the planet.

>>1945122
What has Trump done to make shift production away from China?

Has anyone used a resin printer to make structural parts? I'm thinking of making some high-ish precision parts for an instrument and the resolution of resin printers is appealing.

>>1945152
You mean aside from the embargoes and levies?

>>1945117
Ironically, cheap chinese desktop cnc mills can cut a circuit board. nothing like actual commercial lithography, but even TSMC is opening a plant up in America

>>1945155
Do it. As long as they're not too high load (or you can design things properly) it won't be an issue. Just don't cheap out on the resin if it's actually important and you're good.

>>1945160
Makes sense, considering the PRC's aggression towards Taiwan. I'd be moving manufacturing out of China, too, were I in their shoes.

>>1945158
Yeah, how have those worked out? Have people shifted production back to the USA?

>>1945161
So tough resin and common sense (tm) in my design?

Anyone have tips on printing gears and slots shit with a resin printer?

>>1945163
Yes. Both in terms of materials and manufacturing with those materials.
Hell, my country got fucked in the crossfire because China was selling their aluminum to the US through us.

I've been reading some guides on how to dial-in your settings and the guy uses Simplify3d program to basically section a model so every X number of layers some parameter (say, speed) changes. This way you can quickly and easily see which parameter(s) work best for your setup.
I've been trying to accomplish something similar with Cura. I wasted an hour and still can't get it working. There's something called support blockers but those simply don't work and you can't set changes to them now anyway. Is there some other way to do it?
HALP, /3dpg/.

>>1945119
I am using one and so far I've only had problems with it. It doesn't restrict the filament enough so that the tpu is squashed out to the side. Never had this problem with single drive. I am using a bowden system btw. pls help

>>1945091
>Prusas, which AFAIK are as locally sourced as possible
>source steppers, rails, beds and other stuff from company in Czechia
>said company buys them from China
This is why the Prusa costs 3x as much as an E3. Additional middle man increases costs.

>this happened
I don't know what happened here, disregard that small goop dot. could be the "print thin walls" feature spazzing out
>>1945218
Gcode post processing is what you're looking for in cura

So this is the power of BLtouch

>>1945152
>>1945158
Donald and Ivanka Trump own businesses that continue to manufacture their products in China today.

If you want manufacturing back in your countries, then buying a 3d printer from China is not the solution. You guys are so fucking retarded I swear.

>>1944957
The rough surface of the printed parts and their lack of flexibility makes them really uncooperative for making molds directly. The only success I have had are the following.
1. Making the mold a single-use destructive item. Add splits and seams in the print so that the mold can be put into a vice after the resin cures. You then use pliers or wrenches to split the mold in order to free the part. This being needed really depends upon part geometry and I mostly used it for dished shapes.
2. Print the positive masters and pour 2-part silicone molds around those.
3. Using a rigid master for pouring flexible parts, or dummy masters for making finer detail parts. The rigid master can be touched up with sanding, epoxy putty, or bondo if you need to remove the texture of the printed surface.

I've mostly cast parts from higher durometer polyurethane, or from bisphenol. And all with a pressure pot to avoid having bubbles in the final parts.

>>1945218
>I've been trying to accomplish something similar with Cura.
You really can't, sorry. Cura is always a generation behind simplify3d when it comes to newer features actually working well. Cura supports are still garbage in comparison.

Let's play a fun game. Select all posts paid by simplify3d
If there are none, you're paid by simplify3d too.

>>1945262
Yeah, all these poorfag Ender owners who are just gonna pirate it are a market worth advertising to.

>>1945263
The only S3D versions on torrents are from 2017.
You want to tell me everyone here uses crap as old as that? Topkek.

>>1944964
BL Touch and i ain't going back. Using different spring steel beds with different type of surface layers (PEI, Bondtech, Kapton) depending on materials, so far i aint having problems, but not everyone wants or needs this flexibility.

>>1945264
git gud
I believe that 4.1.2 is the latest version, you can find downloads for it easily.

>>1944964
the 3rd type in your pic, inductive sensor, because I'm a cheapass and it costed like 4 bucks.
Only works on metal surfaces though

>>1945268
BLtouch is finicky as hell from my experience. Sometimes it works very well and other times the nozzle crashes into the bed in some areas and I end up leveling manually while the skirt is printed.
And then there's this >>1945250. Sometimes the top of the print gets skewed and does not form a 90deg angle with the sides.
I never had any of these problems when I was doing it all by hand.

>>1945240
looks like a lot of vibrations

You guys tried no planar printing? Or have ideas what to with it?

>>1945314
It's a meme that requires massive adaptation for slicing, or completely custom slicing. If you're clever enough to think of a way to do nonplanar slicing to X object, you're clever enough to make a user case for it.

>>1945219
>I am using one and so far I've only had problems with it. It doesn't restrict the filament enough so that the tpu is squashed out to the side. Never had this problem with single drive. I am using a bowden system btw. pls help
I'm not really sure what your setup looks like and how it can get squished out to the side. I have the cheapest dual gear extruder ($10 metal one) and all I've done is reduce the extrusion multiplier by 60% (set it around 40% and experiment). You can't print fast with TPU with a bowden tube setup. I don't have a direct drive either so I'm not sure how fast they can go.

>>1945240
>Gcode post processing is what you're looking for in cura
Sure, I know what it's called but there's simply no way to do it without programming your own G-code post-processor. If you have a way, please share.
All I'd like to do is change the speed/flow/etc every few mm or so to see what the change does to a print.
>>1945254
>You really can't, sorry. Cura is always a generation behind simplify3d when it comes to newer features actually working well. Cura supports are still garbage in comparison.
Thanks anon. I've wasted so much time trying to get it working. I'm positive it can't be done in Cura without programming your own plugin or something. I've even looked at plugins they have and couldn't find it.
Now i understand why everyone on YT uses S3D.

>>1945343
>Now i understand why everyone on YT uses S3D.
"everyone" is quite a strong word anon

>>1945348
>"everyone" is quite a strong word anon
I mean the big channels... channels that actually matter: CNC kitchen, Michael the teacher, 3D Nerd, Muse aussie etc. When you see them working on something, they always use Simplify3d program.

I use Linux so I can't even run it. I need a way to get these layer changes somehow. Hmm... maybe I should write a script myself. Hope I don't destroy my printer.

>>1945253
Thanks for the info

>>1945314
Won't be popular until 5 or 6 axis printers become commonplace.

>>1945350
>I use Linux so I can't even run it
Have you tried Wine? It may not be warranteed to run, but it's better than nothing. At the very worst, you could try setting up a VM.
>>1945350
>I mean the big channels... channels that actually matter
I actually picked up quite a few Cura tricks in the big channels :V

>>1945352
>6 axis printers
Whatever would be the sixth axis? Rotation for a non-circular nozzle? Or are you already counting the extruder?

>>1945218
>>1945343
You can do those kinds of changes pretty easily in PrusaSlicer, I think they're called "modifier blocks" so you can even do just parts of a layer and not the full layer if you want to go more granular

>>1945357

>>1945362
Yes, I am familiar with that schema, but how would one make the last DOF useful?

>>1945218
>I've been trying to accomplish something similar with Cura. I wasted an hour and still can't get it working. There's something called support blockers but those simply don't work and you can't set changes to them now anyway. Is there some other way to do it?
Add a support blocker, make it Z millimeter high, change setting for that. Or just make an STL that is a cube of 10mm high, use that for overlap settings, even easier - and unlike Simplifay it allows for wierd overlap geometry instead of just layers.

>>1945254
>Cura is always a generation behind simplify3d when it comes to newer features actually working well.
At least Cura is regularly updating and improving, Simplify today offers the same as it did a year, maybe two ago. Cura from two years ago is a world of difference.
>Cura supports are still garbage in comparison.
Regular Cura supports work just fine anon, no idea what you're on about.

>>1945343
>Now i understand why everyone on YT uses S3D.
Not everyone does, it's mostly split between S3D (because free for the big YT channels), Cura and Slic3R (including Prusa). In the 3D-printing lab I worked they used Cura and S3D exclusively - and it wasn't a print service, it was actual research into novel materials and printing techniques and applications. They were considered equal but different, with different applications depending on the machine - you'd use S3D for the 50K EUR Reprap, and Cura for the Ultimakers and some experimental setups, for example.

>>1945357
>>1945369
I personally saw this one at Formnext last year:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_ldCmWCrOI
With more degrees of freedom comes the liberty to print vertical overhangs without supports and more such possible forms. Most people don't realise how limited FDM is in it's shapes: newbies think everything is possible (and fail, or use excessive support material), people with experience have learned to design around the limitations.

>>1945369
Rotate the part cooling fan(s).
Otherwise you can take a 5 axis arm and have a rotating print bed to allow truly circular profiles.

>>1945371
>With more degrees of freedom comes the liberty to print vertical overhangs without supports and more such possible forms
Indeed, but two additional DOF would be enough in a purely mathematical sense for the shape alone. The last DOF would be a last degree of rotation, which wouldn't be necessary for the shape of the part itself.
>>1945372
>Rotate the part cooling fan(s).
That's interesting, although differential cooling could be achieved more easily with multiple fans and turning them on and off.
>have a rotating print bed
Now that's interesting; kind of those combination lathe-mills

>>1945376
>lathe-mills
Those are usually called "mill/turn". They're pretty neat.
There's also the possibility of rotating the tool in order to use the same kind of nozzle as those concrete printers, where it's open on one side and creates a really consistent cross-section when deposited.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Csy2e1B2v0

>>1945343

>>1945377
>Those are usually called "mill/turn". They're pretty neat.
Desu, I didn't quite know the word for them in English. Grew up with a CNC engineer as my dad, but in Argentina.

>>1945387
FWIW, your English is pretty good for being ESL.

>>1945388
Thanks but d-don't flatter me baka, it's not like I l-like you or anything desu
Also nice digits

>>1945385
Sure, now open that menu and take a look. Now tell me which of those is the one I should use.
>>1945356
>Have you tried Wine? It may not be warranteed to run, but it's better than nothing. At the very worst, you could try setting up a VM.
I tried WINE once... the thing I wanted didn't work well at all. I think I spent an hour of my life trying to get it working and still it would not run properly.
Another thing I'd have to do is run a pirated version of S3D and I don't even have it. VM might be a better option. At least I'm protected against viruses this way.
>>1945361
>You can do those kinds of changes pretty easily in PrusaSlicer, I think they're called "modifier blocks" so you can even do just parts of a layer and not the full layer if you want to go more granular
Thanks so much anon! Will give that a try. There's a Linux version of it as well. Nice.
>>1945371
>Not everyone does, it's mostly split between S3D (because free for the big YT channels), Cura and Slic3R (including Prusa). In the 3D-printing lab I worked they used Cura and S3D exclusively - and it wasn't a print service, it was actual research into novel materials and printing techniques and applications. They were considered equal but different, with different applications depending on the machine - you'd use S3D for the 50K EUR Reprap, and Cura for the Ultimakers and some experimental setups, for example.
Thanks for the info! Appreciate it.
>>1945371
>Add a support blocker, make it Z millimeter high, change setting for that. Or just make an STL that is a cube of 10mm high, use that for overlap settings, even easier - and unlike Simplifay it allows for wierd overlap geometry instead of just layers.
Support Blockers don't work this way anymore in 4.7.1 (what I have... latest version). I saw one tutorial on how to do that but I couldn't get it working. I spent an hour trying to make it work. If you have a way, PLEASE let me know how! Thanks for all the comments and for sharing the knowledge!

>>1945218
>every X number of layers some parameter (say, speed) changes
>>1945398
you want to change at a certain z-height, i'm positive you'll figure this out

>>1945398
>If you have a way, PLEASE let me know how!
Pic related. I drew a 50mm cube in Solidworks, and rescaled it using Cura's built in scaling option. I then placed it over the small buildings a mate asked me to print (disregard those), so that it would overlap with half of them. I then used the option ''Modify Settings for overlaps'', it's on the left menu, fourth from top, then the third from the left in that submenu. This is generally used for support modifiers within the overlapping area of the .STL files, but can also be used to modify print speed, for example - you will need to select this in the ''Select settings'' option.
If you want to make a speed or temperature tower, just make that cube again, squish it inot a 10mm high shape, stack five or six on top of each other, and modify speed or temperature accordingly.

>>1945402
Thanks anon! That actually might work!!!

>>1945403
Thanks so much anon!!! I'll give this a try as well. I actually tried the same technique but couldn't get Cura to make a change. I'll see if I can get it working with the way you set it up.

Tell me about Ender 3 upgrades, frens. What upgrades are actually worth doing? I recently acquired a glass bed and like it more than the standard print surface. It's a lot flatter (my aluminum bed was a bit warped so glass helped).
What else is worth upgrading?

>>1945441
Springs and wingnuts.
Also, lower your Y axis feed rate to compensate for the added mass.

>>1945445
>Springs and wingnuts.
I have those yellow springs on order. Not sure what you mean by wingnuts... where would I use them? Replace those stock bed leveling knobs?
>Also, lower your Y axis feed rate to compensate for the added mass.
I have no idea how to do that. I think it has something to do with jerk, right? Or do I have to change something in Firmware? Thanks so much for bringing this to my attention. Had no idea this makes so much impact but it does make perfect sense... more mass, slower the accel/deceleration.

>>1945454
You put wingnuts under the knobs to prevent them from walking themselves loose over time.
As for feed rate, scroll down to the "speed" category and just lower it a little bit.
If you don't, you risk it skipping steps or have serious deflection (especially with stock springs), which can cause the nozzle to bump into the geometry or cause poor layer adhesion, especially as you get further away from the center of the plate.

>>1945458
Got it. Thanks so much anon!
Another quickie... a friend of mine says he added heated bed insulation after upgrading to glass surface. Does that matter?

>>1945462
I didn't, but I don't trust the reading on the thermistor for the bed. I set it to preheat the bed (and only the bed) for a few minutes before I plan to start the print and check it with an infrared thermometer. Once the top of the glass is ~55C, I then start the print.

I replaced my Ender 3 board with a silent one. Now it is less noisy

>>1945476
nice

this is beautiful. I'm in love.

>>1945503
Very clean looking design

>>1945509
134g
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085
I can't tell whether this could be fitted on an Ender 3... any ideas?

Planning to get into small-scale 3D printing for small utilities(not art/statues). Read the pastebin and I feel like the Ender 3 Pro is the way to go. Should I wait for black friday or just grab it at $236(new)?

>>1945528
I usually use my Ender 3 Pro for small knicknacks, adapters, consoles, covers etc... if calibrated right it is very precise.

>>1945535
That's great to hear, thanks. What filament do you use?

>>1945518
The answer is usually "Yes", but with varying degrees of kludge.
>>1945528
I'd say buy it sooner than later. Things will probably get very spicy very soon and import goods from China probably won't be as available, if at all.

I'm interested in purchasing a 3d printer for some every-day home use. I see an Ender-3 V2 for sale and I'm wondering if I need anything else to jump into this space.

>>1945545
A computer that can run one of the slicing programs and the willingness to learn a whole lot of stuff and also work with your hands. There's a lot of hand finishing required.

anyone got some good prints for vr?

>>1945548
post programming socks NOW

>>1945553
footfags get the rope first

My benchy turned into a teenager

>>1945548
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4254067
this greatly improves the balance of the og quest
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3841884
knuckles style attachment with integrated cordlock

>>1945558
Im not a footfag, I'm a thighfag

>>1945561
already done that front strap part, attached some fans with ducts to blow air into the eye area, got a little clip that the standard hand strap loops into and acts as knuckle straps with much less fuss

>>1945573
Reverse the fan, you want it to draw away moisture, if it blows inwards it will quickly dry out your eyes

>>1945577
I've been using it for a good while, it works really well, your eyes dry out every so slightly but the air isn't going straight into your eyes, it's there to prevent the lenses from ever fogging up

>>1945441
>Tell me about Ender 3 upgrades, frens
I actually put some posts a couple threads ago with things you can print yourself, give them a try:
>>1940824
>>1940836
>>1940851
>>1940890

>>1945539
Mostly PLA from Sunlu but I often use Greentec Pro and BDP from extrudr
Tried PETG but it is not as good as Greentec

>>1945588
Oh also a belt tensioner, which I ended up using only for the X axis despite being proclaimed to work with the Y axis too:
>>1941549
>>1942302

Print with 100% infill and have/print a 5mm Allen key and a 13mm hex wrench to undo and redo the bolts.

>>1945560
it also has few zits. time to tune it in!

Anons, does this work? Parts cooling shroud for E3...

>>1945595
I believe I watched a video from teaching tech which featured that a year+ ago, and it wasn't particularly useful.

>>1945595
It worked better than the stock shroud for me, even if not by much

>>1945598
>>1945602
Thanks so much. I've been looking at various shrouds on Thingiverse and it's hard to tell if any of them actually do anything. Some are clearly well engineered and most are very bulky. All present dubious benefits.

>>1945595
I'm going to try the Satsana duct for my printer. I heard it was good.

>>1945620
>printing a heater eclosure
Let me ask what filament are you gonna use for that while I sweat profusely

>>1945620
>Satsana duct
Looks great! I like the non-goofy and compact design.

Freshly printed vs commercial... Printed wins by a mile. You can print them with some hexagonal texture on the top so it's not slippery and you don't need any sticky stuff on your fingers. Plus printed one has 3 sides you can use. You can also print it at any thickness you want which is awesome since I have hard time finding thin one at stores.
All in all, a major win.

>>1945656
... bottom side.

>>1945656
>You can print them with some hexagonal texture on the top
Is that postproc? Two prints, with line art on top of a 3-D printed pick? Is it ironing? Tell me your secrets

>>1945661
Nvm, looked it up:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1231413
Simple solution, yet interesting

>>1945656
>>1945660
Fuck, I should unironically print out some samples and go around to guitar stores and ask them if they'd be interested in being the middle man for custom picks.
Although now that I've "come up" with this idea I'll likely find out someone is already doing this on ebay.

>>1945677
Have you used it much?
Had the same idea but they didn't hold up worth a shit, at least from PLA

>>1945684
I haven't tried them, but when you mention it it's probably not too surprising they didn't really hold up.
Probably worth trying other stuff like ABS and PETG too, or some really hard TPU.

>>1945661
>>1945662
>>1945677
>Fuck, I should unironically print out some samples and go around to guitar stores and ask them if they'd be interested in being the middle man for custom picks.
Do it. If I didn't have a 3d printer, I'd buy them. Hell, even if you could print in some shit I can't (ABS), I'd still buy it. Def give it a try. You have nothing to lose but some of your time and you might meet some people too.

Anyway, this is attempt #2. Dude on TV said to print at 0.1mm layer thickness. I printed the first one at 0.2 because Cura gave me some shit and didn't like it.
I then installed S3D and gave that a try with default settings. It sliced fine at 0.1mm thickness. But, it ran into my bed clips and dragged one of them across before I stopped it. Ugh. Had to modify the start g-code to print right.
Here's a comparison: Ender 3 Pro, Creality glass bed, Sunlu PLA.
Left one is 0.1mm layer thickness and the right one is 0.2mm layer thickness. Left one is actually ~0.2mm thicker. Left is from S3D and right is from Cura. S3D one has a couple of skidmarks that can be seen going diagonally near the bottom. No clue what that's about.
My S3D settings are clearly shit and I think it's over-extruding. If anyone has some ideas, please let me know.

>>1945694
Sorry.. rotate clockwise (4chins still can't handle exif rotation).

Here's the bottom side. Left 0.1mm layer height in S3D, right is Cura at 0.2mm. I have Cura tuned much better since I use it all the time.

>>1945316
It's not that hard to setup with prusaslicer.

Has anyone tried out the iphone scandy pro app?
Is it trash like all of the other scnaners?

>>1945696
How well do they hold up when playing?
since you shear the tips against the strings I could imagine they give out rather quick

>>1945710
>How well do they hold up when playing?
I played one song and it held up OK. No major scratches. I'm really impressed the PLA at 0.8mm held up so well. I'll give it some trashing tomorrow.
I think commercial ones are made from nylon (not 100% sure). Chinkshit ones are who knows what, however.
My fav are Ibanez with a sandpaper-like inserts. But those are like $2 a piece and hard to find locally (unless you use amazon).

Anyone know why Cura complains about Top/Bottom thickness when I change it to 0.1mm? Nozzle's 0.4mm so that might be an issue... I know the "best quality" setting is 0.12mm for a 0.4mm nozzle.

>>1945718
Try 0.08

>>1945592
I have the "filter out tiny gaps" turned on so it must be from the new drivers. I'll look into it, so far only large curves are affected.
First thing first, bed leveling and proper surface cleaning.

>>1945730
I meant the stepper drivers from the new silent board

>>1945730
>>1945592
It seems Cura doesn't apply the "Filter out tiny gaps" for some reason, the gcode is the same with and without the modifier.
I'm using 4.7.1, can anyone verify this with the same version and maybe earlier versions?

>>1945733
Scratch that, it is there and is applied, but still the printer stops a bit from time to time on curves. Maybe the original board had more of a travel slack and the new board gives a more tight stepper control. What do I need to modify to give a less abrupt deceleration between line segments, acceleration or jerk? Also which way?

>>1945736
i'll give you an accelerated jerk

>>1945736
No zits so far

>>1945739
It finished, looks much better. Slower outer wall speed, maybe need to reduce esteps a tiny bit

>>1945761
Aaand forgot the pic

>>1945762
Also the zebras are gone

What do you all think about my cooling solution for the Ender 3?
I wanted the air from the fan to go mostly straight to the part and that the intake of the parts cooling fan is pointed to the back for slight noise reduction.
The 50mm fan (not shown in pic) will be used as a stressed member to increase rigidity.

>>1945772
Haven't installed it yet as my printer is still printing other parts

Ordered a magnetic buildplate for resin printer from China.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001500593426.html

The steel plate has insufficient friction with the magnetic base and moves during the print.

How do I fix this? I'm thinking of adding some sticky goo to the magnetic base or roughing up the surfaces. Any ideas on what to put between the magnetic plate or what to do with it to make it not shift about?

So tell me with all honesty, is BLTouch fucking crap or not?

>>1945802
See >>1945277
TL;DR It's great when it works, when it doesn't you'll be pulling your hairs out and wish you were back to manual leveling.

>>1945772
>>1945773
Single side part cooling is not much better than the stock one, hotend cooler is mostly open, not as effective as a closed one like Hero Me or the others. I'd say you didn't improve much over the stock Ender 3 head and part cooler box.

>>1945828
With that said, not much is needed to make an actual improvement, study how the Hero Me and Fang (and derivatives) work and adjust your design.
Also for the part cooler make a duct that splits into two blowers, an easy straight+90° cooler duct or a circular duct will be better.

>>1945796
>How do I fix this?
You use one that works better, you can't exactly magnetize more a magnetic strip, plus the resin will attack any glue or goop you put in there that also ruins your resin.

>>1945773
>12V fan
Anon, I...

>>1945829
>>1945828
Tanks mate, I'll adjust my design.

>>1945832
buck converter...

>>1945832
Wow, I didn't even see that. At least it will be a fast fan, but not for a long time

>>1945773
>>1945772
hey anon, it's a beautiful solution! Do you have a buck converter for that 12V fan somewhere? And are you printing it in PETG?

>>1945736
>>1945761
Anon, I just installed 1.1.5 silent board as well. How exactly did you fix your issue? I have a feeling I'll have the same problem as you.
I also tightened wheels on carriages... noticed one wheel could spin freely...

>>1944892
Pulled the trigger on this bad boy as my first 3D printer. Paid 230 USD How badly did I fuck up?
Apparently it has a slightly bigger printing size than the Mars Pro and faster speed, but higher minimal layer size and Z resolution.

I want to use it mainly for printing cases for electronic projects and connectors.

>>1945874
It´s the Creality LD-002H

>>1945874
>>1945875
>I want to use it mainly for printing cases for electronic projects and connectors.
You could have done that with an FFF printer too. But hey, at least it will be higher res if that's what you're after. Let us know when it arrives... would love to see some pics of it in action!

>>1945881
>You could have done that with an FFF printer too
I guess, but I don´t really care for smell nor speed and SLA seemed like a very "elegant" method.

Will provide pics although the first attempts will be a bit rough I guess. Does anybody have recommendations for a robust resin that is withstanding a bit of abrasion and abuse?

>>1945889
>SLA seemed like a very "elegant" method
You will soon find that SLA is a very messy method because you'll be handling resin.
Also SLAs aren't really upgradable that easily, so you'll have to live with whatever downsides it has.

>>1945889
>I guess, but I don´t really care for smell nor speed and SLA seemed like a very "elegant" method.
You do know that SLA requires nasty smelly chemicals?

It's a weird choice for project enclosures, where you'd usually want large build plates and cheap filament.

>>1945895
Yeah, I have a shop with good ventilation and also proper masks with filters for organic vapor. So I guess I should be fine here.

I saw that good resin goes on sale for about $25/kg regulary and I don´t print a massive amount so it would not cut holes in my pocket.

But the possibility to print very fine detail when I need it is nice I think. Idk. Maybe it´s one of the things that sound fine but if you´re trying them in person it really doesn´t work out.

>>1945889
start learning Chitubox. Do you have any supplies for post-processing?

>>1945899
>good resin goes on sale for about $25/kg regulary
That's how much good filament costs without a sale.
You can't bullshit yourself out of this, anon. You made the wrong choice for what you need. At least man up and admit it.
Not saying that the SLA printer won't do what you want but if you want to make boxes for electronics then a bone stock Ender 3 or other chink clone of it would have served you very well.

>>1945874
its fine, personally I prefer Elegoo's line but they are basically all the same. its fine for a first resin printer.
word of advice since you are new, get yourself some Anti Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant and a plastic scraper so you dont damage the FEP

>>1945901
Several containers and plastic boxes, scrapers, Isopropanol is what I have around. I guess I will buy as I go when the thing arrives (which could take a while).
Got into Inventor a bit for making my first "built to order" parts. But man ordering prints from the Internet is expensive.

>>1945903
> You made the wrong choice for what you need.

As I said money is not really the issue for me. And the Ender 3 is around $200 too where I live. I guess I might just buy an Ender 3 too if I am too restricted with the print surface.

>>1945916
If money isn't an issue, you should get a laser cutter.
Or if it really isn't an issue, a CNC plasma router and make your enclosures out of steel sheet.

>>1945916
there is one problem you are going to have and is going to be a massive pain in the ass
resin tends to warp during curing so its not ideal for things like large form fitting boxes or flat surfaces.
go OTT with your UV curing station, you have to blast those fuckers from every angle simultaneously to get a solid cure. also print in clear resins when you can so it cures faster. also leaving the supports on during curing can help this but its never going to be perfect. honestly you would do a lot better with a FFF printer in terms of ease of use

>>1944892
Anycubic Chiron:
is there any reason not to buy this over the other mid range options
it will be my first FFF printer, anyone care to weigh in before I pull the trigger?

>>1945920
>enclosures out of steel sheet.
Yeah but having an insulating material to work with is quite important for me.

>>1945921
Thanks for the tips anon. Didn´t know that transparent resin cures faster, thought it would be black one since that absorps more (UV) light?
I could print a 360° curing station that would be fun lol

>>1945929
resin is tricky, while blacks surface would cure a little faster, its the 'meat' or 'core' of the resin, the stuff on the inside that you need to cure ASAP. if the outside is solid but the middle is still gooey youre going to have warping and cracking. you have to hit it all as quickly as possible with as much UV as you can bring to bare, thats where clear makes a big difference. I stuck a UV powered Lazy Susan in a box lined with reflective material and stuck as many UV LED lights in it as humanly possible, works well but you can go as fancy as you like. building a few clear acrylic supports is also a big help when keeping flat surfaces flat.
hit it even and hit it fast

>>1945929
Laser cut acrylic sheets then.

>>1945862
I installed the 4.2.7 board with the 32bit cpu. I "fixed" the issue by lowering outer wall print speed and reduced flow to about 95% by reducing Esteps

>>1945928
I bought one, worked well, good QC. Just don't think you'll be printing hella fast with a 400mm bedflinger - instead of printhead speed, you'll have to fill that volume with a fat layers and a fatter nozzle.
Some people received a Chiron with bad QC, especially in the first few batches. Warped beds and bad electronics were the main issues, check for those immediately and you should be fine. I ordered from a local warehouse in Europe through Aliexpress, I had the printer in house within two days and a replacement bed (and gantry) for free within a week. CS through their Aliexpress shops seems to be good.
Throw away the shitty autoleveling ASAP, it's shite and I hate the constant Z-movement autoleveling brings. Replace with a BLTouch if you're dead set on autoleveling or git gud at manual leveling once, I rarely had to relevel.

>>1945762
Very nice.

>>1945965
thanks anon. I'll tune mine in later today.

BTW, there's a vid claiming that a parts cooling fan on Ender 3 doesn't do shit and you can even turn it off completely. And that all those fancy "ducts" and "shrouds" are useless.
Anyone have an opinion on that?

>>1945973
thanks man that helps a lot, so its pretty luck of the draw with QC, no worries then I will just make sure to buy from somewhere with free returns. build speed isnt nearly as important as build volume for me as I use a resin printer for small stuff, so I'm fine with it being a tad on the slow side.
is the 'BLTouch' just plug and play after removing the autoleveler?
and are there any other DIY improvements I should know about?
I really appreciate your reply, these threads havent been great for getting advice for novices

>>1945995
I wouldn't try to return right away, maybe some defective part is easy to replace - or you have a decent printer the first time round. I've heard similar succes rates on Creality printers to be honest.
>is the 'BLTouch' just plug and play after removing the autoleveler?
No, hence my advice to just do manual leveling.
>and are there any other DIY improvements I should know about?
Get yourself some big nozzles (0.6-0.8-1.0mm) and you're mostly set. Maybe an enclosure? Stock spool holder is decent but a standalone one might be better depending on your available desk space.

>>1946000
fair enough, manual levelling it is.
sorry if it sounds like a nooby question, but why would you go for bigger nozzles than stock, wouldn't that just reduce accuracy?
spool holder and enclosure sounds like a fun project so no problem there.
thanks again

>>1946010
Nig bozzles mean you can put down more filament at a time. That said, the ratio between the filament diameter and the extruder diameter is important to consider, so if you're building a printer for high speed printing of large objects, then you might want to get a 2.85 spec hotend.

>>1946010
Everybody thinks printspeed = hotend movement speed, when in reality, it is hotend movement speed times nozzle diameter times layer height, which results in printing speed in cubic mm per second. You can crank up the movement speed (or can't, on a bedflinger) all you want, you can't outrun a fat nozzle and a fat layer height. You won't be reducing accuracy, you are reducing resolution instead (the two are alike but different). Anyways, fat nozzles and fat layers mean really, really quick prints, and without that you can't utilise the Chiron's print volume within any appreciable time.

>>1946014
1.75mm diameter filament will suppsrt up to a 1.2-1.4mm nozzle, with a 0.8mm layer height you are at the limit of the Chirons heating element. This is the joy of fat nozzles and fat layers: the limit is the heating element (easy to replace), not the kinematics of your printer. But really, you are already printing hella fast at that point, no need to go any bigger for most people.
And if you want to go bigger (like I do) you can move up to an expensive-ass pellet extruder with a 2-5mm nozzle.

>>1945989
>there's a vid claiming that a parts cooling fan on Ender 3 doesn't do shit
Yes, but that's because the stock hotend cooling fan spills so much air onto your print that the part cooling fan doesn't do much and you can even turn it off with no issues.
The shroud in your pic is supposed to suck air into the hotend and away from your print so in such a setup the cooling fan setting actually means something.

>>1946016
ok you have convinced me, fat nozzels it is. thanks for all the hep bud, youve been a star

>>1946016
I'm planning on building a printer specifically for large objects. I'm talking a print bed that is more than four square feet.

>>1946020
That guy CHEP claims this is not true and that even if you put tape over all the holes and with a parts fan turned off, he still sees no difference at all with PLA.
He claims slicer settings are all that matters.

>>1946029
I used to work on a delta with a 1000mm buildplate - about 8 square feet, pic related, behind the racecar. You'll need a good extruder to fill that build volume, I'd recommend a V6 Volcano at the minimum but the newer Supervolcano might be better. 40mm3/s extrusion volume flow does wonders for building big stuff quick, and I managed that with 1.75mm filament.
Next printer I'm working on is going to be 40 square feet (2,5x1,5x1,2m) with a dedicated pellet extruder. Filament just can't keep up.

>>1946030
Okay, now you've made me curious.
I print with the duct you pictured and I print my PLA with no cooling, but my layers take long and there's no overhangs. In my case there's no ill effects because there's enough time for the layers to cool. I also gain extra layer adhesion from letting the layers cool down naturally.
If you were to print something like this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295
then I'm sure you'd get shitty bridges, overhangs and maybe even a bit of melting on the string test poles.

>>1946036
again, CHEP printed a massive bridge (I had no idea this was even possible to be honest) and he saw NO difference... amazing really.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg47Std5ywI

It seems all these shrouds and fans make no diff with PLA if your settings are tuned-in.

>>1946036
>>1946039
... and if they make no difference with PLA, do they matter with PETG or PLA?
Maybe with those you could use a diff shroud but a shroud that blocks off hot end fan from the part you're printing. I guess aluminum or kapton tape would be good for that too.

PETG and ABS/ASA require no parts cooling, right?

>>1945796
Buy chink shit expect chink quality

Just got my ender 3 pro printer setup but have two issues

1)Auto home goes to the front middle, that's not right is it? Should be the front left corner?

2)When I try to print the test_dog.gcode on the SD card that came with my ender 3 the nozzle part just keeps in the middle and not moving left and right but it doesn't seem particularly tight on the channel and belt and can move left/right by hand, is there a way to fix this?

>>1946033
I was gifted a 2.85 hot end that can reach 500 degrees, so I'll be using that. Direct drive, too, so should be able to handle flexible filaments.

>>1946036
>>1946039
Here's CHEP's followup video with the hot end taped off... starts few min in:

https://youtu.be/QvyesgYLwQk?t=169

I think, and someone correct me on this if I'm wrong, you can get by without a fan if you print slower and have prints that take longer for each layer to finish. This way the PLA has the time to cool off sufficiently even without a fan.
PLA needs to be fairly cool when you melt the next layer on top of it because its glass temperature is fairly low. PLA actually adheres better to itself when it's hotter but if you don't cool it, you will experience dimensional instability and imperfections since it will melt the layers below. So most settings find a happy medium between adhesion and dimensional stability.

tl;dr: more cooling = better dimensional stability but lower strength of layer adhesion.

With ABS/ASA etc, they require a higher temp to melt and you have the opposite issue... the difference in temp of the printing environment is so high that it cools off too fast. That's why you want enclosure and no parts cooling.

I'm not an expert but this is what I've managed to understand from reading about plastics over the past year.
I'd appreciate some corrections, additional insight, links or practical books/papers on this because I'd like to learn more.

>>1946062
If the annealing processes get refined, I think we'll see that become less of an issue. Print it at 100% infill with the best geometry and then cook it for strength.

>>1946039
He did not see any difference because of the airflow from the hotend fan which dwarfs whatever that tiny 4010 fan can do. The stock creality duct for the 4010 is absolute trash as well so that's not helping either.

>>1946041
If you have any amount of cooling with PETG or ABS the layer adhesion goes to shit. ABS will warp like a motherfucker too.
My first reverse cooling duct was made out of ABS and warped around 1cm where the layer cooling fan was supposed to go. That's because the stock E3 hotend fan was cooling it a shit ton.
The end product was usable enough that I could print stuff decently and dial in my slicer settings. So I made a new cooling duct and this time it only warped around 1mm where the layer cooling fan sits. The part where the hotend fan sits came out perfectly straight.
Now I shill this duct whenever possible because it gives you absolute control over part cooling. You'd think that reversing the airflow would make the cooling less effective but I've yet to have clogs that can be attributed to heating of the filament in the heatsink.

>>1946062
Yes, you can get by without a fan if you tune your settings, but it also depends on what you print. If you're printing shit with no bridges and no overhangs then you can get by with no cooling easy.
Now to nitpick him a bit, even with his optimized profile you can see that the benchy with no cooling came out slightly rougher on the front. If you're the kind of person to care about quality and accuracy, that would be hard to ignore.

>>1946086
>He did not see any difference because of the airflow from the hotend fan which dwarfs whatever that tiny 4010 fan can do. The stock creality duct for the 4010 is absolute trash as well so that's not helping either.
Watch the video from this post: >>1946062 or see this pic I just made. He addresses that criticism from the first video he made and then tried again.
No difference with PLA.
>If you have any amount of cooling with PETG or ABS the layer adhesion goes to shit. ABS will warp like a motherfucker too.
>Now I shill this duct whenever possible because it gives you absolute control over part cooling.
OK, so this shroud seems a must for ABS/PETG. What else do you do to print with ABS? And when do you decide to print something in ABS vs PETG? I can't really decide if I want to get into ABS since I don't know when I would need it over PETG.

>Now to nitpick him a bit, even with his optimized profile you can see that the benchy with no cooling came out slightly rougher on the front. If you're the kind of person to care about quality and accuracy, that would be hard to ignore.
100% agree. He also admits in 2nd vid that this is the case. I think his point is that you can get 95% of the value by tweaking the slicer.

>>1946106
>What else do you do to print with ABS?
Anything that needs to stand up to heat of up to 100C. That's why ABS was my first choice when printing that shroud, because it comes quite close to the heater block and I doubt PETG could handle the heat when I'm printing ABS at 260C.
As for when to go for ABS vs PETG I'm still not quite sure myself. I'm not exactly experienced with these materials so right now I'm just using them on random prints instead of PLA.
So far the best results I got were with PETG where I made some car trim clips that did not break along the layer lines. They just cracked and broke randomly, like you'd expect with an injection molded part. Large PETG prints also seem to warp less than similar sized prints in PLA.
ABS prints okay with a raft and if it doesn't warp off the raft it produces quite nice results. I managed to produce a fan that came out quite well and the blades are reasonably bendy so they don't break easily. You can see some overheating on the tip but other than that it printed with no major artifacts. The back side could stand to look a bit better though. The lines you see on the blades aren't the layers, that's how the model turned out in openSCAD.

>>1946123
Back side too for reference.

Will there be a 32 bit update for the prusa MK3 once the mk4 drops?

>>1945913
>ptfe lubricant
Are you implying to apply this to the fep before printing?
Wouldn't that fuck it up in other ways?

>>1946123
>>1946126
Have you been watching the fan showdown?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzvFW3n25QA

>>1946165
no its fine. little spray on the FEP, wipe the excess off with a paper towel, then pour in your resin. no more prints sticking to the FEP and coming off the build plate. that stuff can get real clingy, especially on vats straight out of the box

>>1946123
>>1946126
Thanks anon! That fan is amazing! is it your design or someone else's? How well does it perform?

>>1946179
How do you spray a dry lubricant?

>>1946186
Pressure differential?

>>1946187
huh, didn't realise you could actually buy ptfe spray cans, my bad. Was just wondering if you could take powder and put it in a regular spray bottle.

>>1946179
>e Anti Friction Dry PTFE
it comes out in suspension then dries after like 5 seconds

>>1946194
I was just being a schmuck. Don't worry about it.

I was thinking of picking up a CR-20 pro and I saw this review video. I'M COOMING

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u0_DxjyOU4

>>1946220
> Naomi Wu
she's a fraud.

>>1946224

Really? I'd like to know more but I was just looking into buying my first printer.

>>1945240

Are the racing stripes part of the print...?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UwaWLnGmXk

I found this to be very interesting. Aside from the big tittie girl, the idea of having a treadmill after printing your parts seem like an amazing away to manufacture goods at a small scale.

>>1945703
Looks interesting, so far I've tried only desktop programs with pictures from my phone (poco f1, which is not great camera wise). I've tested and cracked a few programs and found that reality capture is the best so far. I managed to scan, scale and edit my cordless drill and made a holder that fits like a glove for my pegboard. Pretty neat. Would be very nice to automate the capturing process though.

>>1946231
CHEP also just did a vid on this. He wasn't overly impressed with print quality but for sure being able to have it run continuously is massively encouraging for manufacturing.

>>1945726
There is a physical limitation to print under 0.1 AFAIK

>>1946054
Dude, what do you mean? Everything around this hobby is made 90% in China

>>1946231
>a dragon dildo factory in your own garage

>>1946224
How is she a fraud lol? Although I don't really like her, she is seems genuine. She doesn't hide, that she is sponsored by creality either

>>1946225
>Really? I'd like to know more but I was just looking into buying my first printer.
>>1946259
>How is she a fraud lol? Although I don't really like her, she is seems genuine. She doesn't hide, that she is sponsored by creality either
None of her skills (except being on camera) are real. Her husband is some white dude who moved to Shenzen and he molded her into a Naomi "Sexy Cyborg" Wu persona. Years ago, there was an incredible amount of drama around her when this stuff was exposed. She even ended up feuding with New York Times and Patreon (who deplatformed her) over it. You can find more by searching her name +fraud.

Excellent summary: https://archive.is/eU2lb
https://voat.co/v/SexyCyborgLiar (links from when she was relevant)
https://twitter.com/realsexycyborg/status/1056709408879603712?lang=en (her feuding against NYTimes journalists).

Anyway, don't take advice from a shill. If you like the printer, seek reviews from credible reviewers. I believe only CHEP, Michael Laws, Angus/Muse, and Thomas Sanladerer when it comes to 3d printers. Everyone else will have to create a long reputation record before I'd take their word at the face value. YT is chock-full of shills and payola is very real.

Does anyone have any experience with BL Touch clones? There's two main ones that I'm interested. One is from Trianglelab called 3D Touch and then there's a different (???) one called 3D Touch v3.
Which of these two is better?

>>1946256
>infinite length dragon dildo

>>1946170
Yes, that's where the nose cone idea came from.
Unfortunately centering a regular chinesium fan is harder than it looks because you have to get the axle in perfectly perpendicular. I did not and it wobbles, but for my first fan I'd say it came out pretty good.

>>1946180
I found the SCAD files somewhere ages ago before I even had the printer.
It doesn't push as much air as the original fan blades but it's much quieter. It also spins slower. I made this because I like fans that look like jet engine intakes, I didn't really care about performance.

>>1946238
>being able to have it run continuously is massively encouraging for manufacturing
I see 2 problems in this.
First, it's not compatible with a standard slicer, which is already a big problem.
Second, the subpar print quality makes it less attractive to more mainstream printers like the E3. If you'd be doing something that actually requires infinite Z then I understand paying the premium but if you're just looking to mass produce stuff that would fit in an E3's build volume then it's not the best choice.
E3 can also run continuously with a bit of gcode fuckery. You can push prints off the bed with the hotend. If it's something low profile you can add a bracket to push them off.

>>1946292
>Unfortunately centering a regular chinesium fan is harder than it looks
For top irony, try using a chinesium offset vibrator weight, which may accidentally come centered and not vibrate

>>1946224
>> Naomi Wu
>she
>unironically calling bugbeasts by people pronouns

>>1946061
>I was gifted a 2.85 hot end that can reach 500 degrees
Is that burger degrees? That surely can't be Celsius, can it?

>>1946302
My point was that modding a random fan was much harder than what that chum on youtube does. His noctua has a metal hub and he can slide the original blades off and replace them with 3D printed ones.
On a standard fan you can't keep the hub so you have to remove the circular magnet and the axle from the original blades and install them on your design. The magnet goes in easy, the axle not so much and if you put it in with an angle then your fan will wobble and can even hit the frame.

>>1946271
You're implying that the jury is still out on Stefan?

>>1946271
>I believe only CHEP, Michael Laws, Angus/Muse, and Thomas Sanladerer
You left out Stefan from CNC Kitchen

>>1946220
Wu is literally working with Creality (something she talks about openly - this not some "conspiracy" or anything).
So you're just watching a review by one of Creality's paid shills.

>>1946271
what about 3d print general? he even publishes books on how to fix failures. that said I put Stefan at the top of my youtuber list
>>1946305
there are some hotends that can do 550C like the microswiss or dragon hotend

>>1946272
I have a 3D Touch with metal probe from Trianglelab and it works fine with my Ender 3.

>>1944892
How can you guys tell when and where to use supports? I tried printing this off thingiverse and usually they would say what settings to use. But a lot of these statue models don't have any specific settings stated.

>>1946345
Intuition and experience, if I print PLA I know anything with more then 60° overhang might cause problems given the structure beyond but anything between 45°-60° is good to go

>>1946371
How about auto generating supports at the 60 degree threshold? Does that feature work out well or is it better to do it manually?

>>1946378
Yes, but you might need to clean it up a bit. I like to use tree supports because it is easier to see and works better than regular supports.

>>1946383
Cool thanks, I will play around with the different types. I tried the new Pura Slicer's paint on supports, but it ended up using more material than auto generated.

Sorry for the noob question but what´s the difference between the Ender 3 MK1 and MK2?
The MK1 is on sale for $160 and the MK2 is $120 more, except for the fancier display and the PSU mounted internaly I see no difference. They seem to have identical specifications too.

Is the MK2 worth the $120 premium?

>>1946241
I think .1 falls between steps, though.

>>1946305
Nope. Centigrade.

>>1946393
Basic bitch mark 1 or Pro?

>>1946416
Basic MK1. I think difference between basic and pro is better PSU in Pro and magnetic plate.

Thinking about buying my first FFF and if the premium is worth it.

>>1946420
the v2 also has a 4040 profile for the hotbed and a silent board,maybe even a 32-bit one. also check which hotend comes with the basic mk1, I think its a mk6 vs the mk8 on the v2

>>1946420
Mk1 basic and Pro biggest difference is a more stable Y gantry on the Pro with the double width Y support beam

>>1946420
In that case, I'd recommend paying the extra 120. You'd end up paying it anyway over time and who knows how long we'll be able to get stuff out of China.

>>1946397
It is called "Degree Celsius" dear unknowing burger

>>1946450
>>1946447
>>1946433
Yeah thx I guess I will bite the bullet and get the V2 then.

>>1946343
>I have a 3D Touch with metal probe from Trianglelab and it works fine with my Ender 3.
Thanks anon. I think new ones use a plastic probe since it's quieter and doesn't rattle around when the motors move.

>>1946466
Wrong on both counts.
"Centigrade" is synonymous with "Celsius" and I am not American.

Making a model traffic light for my favourite work frenemy, who is a civil engineer specialized in traffic. The case is supposed to revolve, showing the different lights through a mask.

>>1946505
It's composed of two parts, assembled with ridges and a groove to let them revolve

>>1946510
How retardest is that mechanism? The idea is to have the two pieces clip together with some pressure, and then revolve freely
>captcha: find traffic lights
I can't make this shit up

>>1946512
You could put a groove in the shroud for a little C-clip.

>>1946520
Let us have as a design constraint that every part of this piece should be printed. That would mean having the c-clip printed too. Have you had any luck doing that kind of stuff? The forces exerted on the clip wouldn't be too great, as it's just a keychain bauble, but I fear it would snap on assembly.

>>1946523
If made out of PLA, then yeah... No faith it'd survive being bent that much.
In that case, how about some pins?
Have it offset enough to the side that it just barely fits in a groove around the inner portion.
After assembly, just sand it down and it should blend in enough that you won't see it unless you're really looking for it. Maybe even make it a blind hole with a drop of adhesive so it won't come out at all.

>>1946529
I have indeed considered those, but I'd like this to be able to be disassembled. Right now, the "lights" would be just a cylinder of painted paper, but in the future it's possible I'd open it and replace the paper with an LED, a cell battery, and a switch in the base.

>>1946505
What does it mean when some setting in Cura turns that bright orange? Looks ominous.

>>1946539
I think it means it doesn't coincide with some setting or other. I'm not sure what exactly happened there, but I use one layer each for raft bottom, middle, and top, while the "raft middle thickness" setting would imply the use of two layers.

I posted here two weeks ago or so that I was buying an ender 3 pro and a k40. Got my ender 3 yesterday and despite never 3d printed anything before I have to say this was went beyond my expectations

>>1946547
Could you snap a pic of the back side of the overhang test? Seems you got up to ~60 without any major issues, which is pretty good considering how shit the sample PLA is.

>>1946551
yeah this isnt too bad for the sample. Im currently testing with 0.3mm layer thickness now before starting to print some upgrades for the ender with a fresh spool, the obligatory tool holder

>>1946551
Not him, but the sample filament that comes with the Ender 3 is usually not enough. I suspect he bought more filament, and printed the Benchy and cube with the sample filament.
>>1946547
Looking good!

>>1946553
>0.3mm layer thickness
Dam boi dat thicc! On my Ender 3 I'm usually only going up to 0.28. What slicer are you using?

>>1946553
Nice.
>>1946554
Depends on part density.
>>1946555
I generally don't go over .2

>>1946555
Cura with a custom setting, and speaking of which my test just finished

>>1946557
>I generally don't go over .2
From what I've heard is that you get a faster print speed at expense of resolution and strength. Depending on what you are printing it can be worth it

>>1946433
>>1946447
>>1946450
>>1946467
I saw an Ender 3 Pro on sale new $180 shipped on ebay. I hope it is not a clone but the pics show the real thing and the ratings and comments also indicate that it´s genuine so let´s see.

>>1946560
You'll get poor layer adhesion as the ratio of layer thickness / nozzle diameter increases, though. Good way to turn a print into spaghetti.
I'm a bit anal about quality, so I just take the hit for print times.
You got some pretty serious elephant foot on that test cube.

>>1946566
>You got some pretty serious elephant foot on that test cube.
ahh, it was because I printed with a brim, need to head out into the garage for an exacto knife to clean it up

>>1946569
Brims are mostly to prevent the first layer from curling up. I use that along with a little chamfer/filet to prevent elephant foot. Works well enough. The brim I use is .12 so I can just peel it off with my finger nail.

>>1946572
>The brim I use is .12 so I can just peel it off with my finger nail.
oh snap, I forgot to configure that. Well it was my first time printing with a brim so I guess I learned something

>>1946572
>I use that along with a little chamfer/filet to prevent elephant foot

>Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion: -0.1mm
You're welcome

>>1944892
We could start a wiki like the /g/entoomen from /hsg/. Is there anything of the sort already around and fourchins-approved?

>>1945503
>200mm/s
holy shit need

>>1946564
Grab a creality 4.2.7 silent board as well, it is cheap.

3d printer go brrr

>>1946560
>Cura with a custom setting
care to share it?

>>1946606
Its my 2nd day of printing stuff, im not sure you should get profiles off me.

I asked this in /ohm/ I might as well ask it here...
I have an Ender 3 and I've been told that pic related is a fire hazard. It's the input wires to the small logic board from the power supply. They're 24V (probably lots of amps). The wires are tinned and they are pinched by those popular green block terminals.

Why is this a fire hazard? How do I fix it if it is? I've also been told that many people put ferrules on these wires. Why are ferrules any different than these tinned wires?
Thanks!

>>1946609
LOL.. good point bro! Anyway, I think 0.3mm is weird.

>>1946614
High amp terminals get warm. Tinned wires are hard, compressed in the terminal block, gets heated the tin melts, wire becomes soft and no longer held tight, also the tin might spill over causing a short, hence fire hazard.

>>1946505
The supports inside the pieces were an absolute bitch to remove and some remained. Also, the joints between the column of the base and the other two segments were weak af and spanned as soon as I tried to assemble it to check clearances. I'll redesign it with wider walls, try to get rid of the supports, and iterate.

>>1944964
BLtouch has been consistent for me. But I just installed a dual nozzle assembly which will probably fuck it up.

>>1946623
>The supports inside the pieces were an absolute bitch to remove
Did you use Cura?
Try S3D supports. They literally just separate when I lift the object off the bed. I still can't get Cura to create supports like this for some reason. Maybe some Cura master can tell us the right way....

>>1946621
>gets heated the tin melts
I went over this in my head before I posted this question. I looked up solder melting point:
>Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used.
If it ever reaches 180/190C, the block itself will melt before the solder melts.
And what is the fix? Ferrules?

>>1946626
>Did you use Cura?
Yeah, but the model had a bit of a retarded geometry. I'm getting rid of the middle column, and with a lower layer height I should be able to print at higher angles and need fewer supports.

>>1946614
>>1946621
Everyone who has a 3D printer from China should IMMEDIATELY cut off tinned portion of wires and screw in bare copper into the block. UL has banned this practice decades ago since it causes fires. You could not sell a product like that in the US/Can.
Wire ferrules can be crimped later. I would not run a machine with tinned wires myself.
Open your printer and inspect the two wires coming from the PSU. If they're tinned, cut them off.
This + changing the firmware should be the first thing anyone does when they buy a printer from China. I wouldn't even turn it on once.
This should also be in the OP post of every new thread.

>>1946628
The fix is cutting back enough that no tin is in the wires and use a sleeve, crush it good between the terminals

>>1946639
>This + changing the firmware
Can't say for all chinashit, but the new Ender 3 (Pro/V2) boards come with thermal runoff protection enabled by default.

>>1945015
just putting your printer in a large cardboard box really quiets it down.

>>1945253
just print the master out of ABS and smooth it down.

>>1945015
A silent board costs like $35 with drivers

>>1945462
I added a sheet of fireproof mylar backed insulation I snagged from a demo back when I did that sort of work. It was sitting in my garage for a year or two before adding it to my printer. I use a regular sheet of cardboard behind it to keep it rigid and as an added liability/fire hazard. The bed heats faster and can get hotter for high velocity prints I cant post here now because fuck jannies, but another thing you can do is drop a piece of foam on top of your glass bed as it heats up to really cut down on heat time. If you forget about it the hot end should be able to just nudge it off the bed so long as your enclosure is large enough.

>>1946639
>>1946649
>Can't say for all chinashit, but the new Ender 3 (Pro/V2) boards come with thermal runoff protection enabled by default.
I'd still replace the firmware. You have nothing to lose but so much to gain: you'll sleep better, you'll have a better performing machine and if you get ABL you'll have to do it anyway so this is a head-start.

Finally, some Enders used to come with fake XT60 connectors that would catch fire. Some people burned their houses down with it.
Replace that too.

So, a task for everyone in here:
1) Replace stock firmware with one that has thermal runaway protection
2) Check your wires and cut off tinned portion of current-carrying wires
3) Check your XT60 connectors (if you have them). If they're fake, cut them off and solder genuine ones.
4) Have a fire extinguisher close to the printer. Even a canned one will be better than nothing.

>>1946660
>some Enders used to come with fake XT60
Yes, the original basic Mk1 first batches were like that, also it was tinned with big goops of solder. It was revised (it was said it was revised) but the Pro has proper XT60 and the wires are crimped. The first times I was constantly checking and I can safely say they were never even warm. Recently checked them again, no discoloration or any sign of heating connection.

>>1946639
>tinned wires
aight you freaked me out, going to shut this fucker off and do it tomorrow.

>>1946660
>XT60 connectors
How can I tell if its fake?

>>1946553
>the obligatory tool holder
pic related, finished earlier with 0.3mm layer height. Going to reprint it later when I my other spools arrives with colors that pop out from the printer

>>1946663
It's hard to tell if they're warm since you can't touch them when they're working. If your'e concerned, attach a thermal probe to it and monitor it when in use during multi-hour jobs.
>>1946664
>aight you freaked me out, going to shut this fucker off and do it tomorrow.
It's one of the most basic things to do. I'll also add another point:

5) Make sure that the screw that holds heater element and temp sensor is snug. Do not over-tighten it because if could create short in the element and that could cause fire. Just make sure it's snug and not loose.

These 5 points are mandatory when dealing with cheap printers.
>>1946664
>How can I tell if its fake?
See pic.

>>1946676
so these seem ok, from what I can tell from your picture the fake ones are more angular

>>1946682
They look genuine to me as well. Does it say AMASS on them? Only AMASS are genuine.
To be sure, you could check that they're soldered and not crimped.
See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg

Pic related is mine. It's genuine and soldered.

>>1946696
yeah mine look like that and they do say AMASS, they also are very snug and high friction when joining them or pulling them apart

>>1946659
>If you forget about it the hot end should be able to just nudge it off the bed so long as your enclosure is large enough.
JFC anon.... you seem to have a death wish. I'd fix that shit and get rid of any fire hazard. Hope you at least live alone and there's no kids around.

One guy managed to burn his garage down after the printer caught fire. His printer didn't have thermal runaway protection so when he was doing a 10hr print, he went to bed without supervising it. Somewhere in the middle of the print, there was an issue with extrusion and the print turned into a giant spaghetti mess. All that plastic managed to jam one of the belts/servos and the whole hot end was enveloped in plastic and it just caught fire.
Your setup is just wanton disregard for basic safety.

>>1946698
Good. Now fix the wires that screw into the terminal block. And fix the firmware if you haven't done so already.

>>1946564
https://comgrow3d.com/collections/top-sell-printer/products/refurbished-3d-printer used v2 is $219 and pro is $150 with warranty and tested. Shipped from us as well. Heard warranty is good on amazon.
Glass bed $20ish
Better safer PSU $30ish
32 bit board $40ish
So it's $10 cheaper if you do all upgrade yourself I think, E3 is $120. Anyone use it before?

>Just getting into 3D printing
>Heard PETG is better for resisting heat
>All of my prints are stringy messes
Jesus I'm an idiot.

>>1946724
>>All of my prints are stringy messes
pics?
what profile/slicer do you use? you have to tune your prints no matter what the filament. temperature, cooling (reduce it), retraction distance, extrusion multiplier all play a factor in printing.
PETG can print almost as good as PLA with many added benefits. you should be able to figure it out.

>>1946738
I think I've realized the problem but I'm not at work yet to test it. I was trying to print the gcode files that came on the SD card with my ender 3 pro. I think I need to go through Cura and make the gcode myself with maybe higher temps.

>>1946739
>But I'm at work and can't test yet

Fixing typo

>>1946739
min temp for PETG that I use is 230C. you should test your filament up to 250C or look up what the manufacturer says (should be printed on the spool).
I don't even print ABS anymore because PETG is so easy to print now.
anyway, if you want specific advice, show the print and settings you've used. then anons can tell you what to adjust.

>>1946614
It's not a fire hazard. The printer doesn't draw enough power to make those melt.
Even after maxing out the temps with the bed at 115C and hotend at 260C for 10+ hours multiple times there is no sign of melting of the tin or the plastic clamp blocks that keep them in place.

>>1946639
We don't care about your 3rd world standards.
Tinned is better and makes much more sense in this arrangement because there's plenty of idiots that don't know how to properly insert a bare wire into the blocks. Insert that shit wrong and that IS a fire hazard as it can short out with neighboring wires.

>>1946660
>>1946676
>fake XT60 connectors
Top kek m8. Is everything made in china fake to you?
Well, here's some news for you, the ones you deem genuine are also made in china. What now?
There's also very little difference in the connectors you posted in that pic. If you think that's enough to cause a fire hazard then you need to take your meds.

>>1946639
You forgot to answer the most important question:

Why?


Why should I trust some random anon going off without providing sources? Fake XT connectors, sure, but what makes crimped so much better than tinned?

>>1946755
>very little difference in the connectors you posted in that pic
If you think that the only reason they're shit is because they look different, you're the one that needs meds, cheaper materials behave differently and are usually more prone to melting/heating more/etc.

>>1946755
>Well, here's some news for you, the ones you deem genuine are also made in china. What now?
you're too retarded to even understand what specs and tolerances are. I won't even bother explaining and wasting my time.
>>1946756
>Why?
anon already explained it perfectly in the first reply.
and you should learn how to use a search engine to find a more detailed explanation.

>>1946759
>you should learn how to use a search engine
This isn't how it works, the burden of proof is on YOU to prove why I should listen to you, I'm not wasting my time on that
>inb4 "I won't bother explaining"
Like I give a shit, if you don't care enough to explain then why should I care enough to look it up?
>anon already explained it perfectly in the first reply
Doesn't look like it, unless you meant another post. Or the second reply. Or the third. Or any. Just some other guy freaked out and that he said he'll do it.

>>1946760
>This isn't how it works, the burden of proof is on YOU to prove why I should listen to you, I'm not wasting my time on that
that assumes I give a fuck.
>Doesn't look like it, unless you meant another post. Or the second reply. Or the third. Or any. Just some other guy freaked out and that he said he'll do it.
1st reply to original anon's question about safety. Go scroll up.

>>1946621
>>1946769
Fair, the wording made it look like the first reply to that post, not the post it initially replied to, my bad. Still, if your wire terminals are getting hot enough to melt solder during normal operation, you're almost certainly doing something terribly wrong.

>>1946773
>Still, if your wire terminals are getting hot enough to melt solder during normal operation, you're almost certainly doing something terribly wrong.
No, you're not doing anything wrong. WHy do you think the PSU is 350W? How many amps do you think flows through that connector? hint, P=IxV. And what happens when you have lots of amps passing through a conductor?
Come on... this is electronics 101. I feel dumb for even writing it down.

>>1946758
>>1946759
Then how about you put your money where your mouth is and test the fake vs the good connector and come back with the results?
Who am I kidding, I know you won't do this because it's clear to everyone the good connector is an addition to keep ameritards who can't connect them properly from burning their houses down.

>>1946716
The Pro already comes with Meanwell PSU.
I still wouldn't buy basic Ender 3 because of the 4020 Y beam, Pro isn't exactly more expensive and is alltogether a better one.

>>1946773
>you're almost certainly doing something terribly wrong
Yes, that thing is not checking the terminals and fixing them beforehand. If the connection isn't perfect you will have transmission resistance, resistence and high amp will heat up, terminal gets hot, tinned wire gets soft etc...
Just a normal operation with some nudge somewhere that moves an already not so perfect connection will give you a huge problem. Fixing is easy, why shouldn't you do it?

>>1946779
PSUs are not meant to run continuously above 80% of their rating and not meant to be used at 100% of their rating for any amount of time.
Those wires never see more than 13-14A of load and even then it's for short times such as when you're heating the bed and the nozzle at the same time. Which by the way the printer doesn't even do by default, it first heats the bed, then the nozzle then starts homing.
The electronics box also has a constant airflow that helps to keep everything cool, including the wires.

>>1946792
>If the connection isn't perfect you will have transmission resistance, resistence and high amp will heat up, terminal gets hot, tinned wire gets soft etc..
That's exactly what happens when the average brainlet cuts off the tinned wire and just jams bare wire into the terminals.
If you're an electronics autist then good for you, but for the average person couldn't get bare wires in the terminals properly. Tinning is a safety feature here to keep tards from darwing awarding themselves through house fires.
And as I've said above, during the normal operation of the Ender 3 these wires do not get warm enough to melt the tin or the plastic of the terminal.

>>1946793
>And as I've said above, during the normal operation of the Ender 3 these wires do not get warm enough to melt the tin or the plastic of the terminal.

Imagine taking the advice from a retard. Do you even have a HS diploma or did you drop that for street smarts and an online shitposting degree?

https://cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/00142951/263810.pdf

>>1946796
I'm not taking advice from retards, including you.
I'm just calling you out on your bullshit. Do you even have a 3D printer or are you just some buttblasted /ohm/tard here to shitpost about how we do everything wrong?

>>1946799
You're a fucking idiot.
And I understand all the idiots are upset because their king idiot idol has been voted out.
But that doesn't change the fact that physical rules exist and apply and tinned terminals in high amp applications are a fire hazard. Sulk some more.

>>1946800
>You're a fucking idiot
>tinned terminals in high amp applications are a fire hazard
The fucking irony. Nobody has been voted out of anywhere, retard, it's just you being absolutely buttblasted over something most people here give zero fucks.
Prove this shit happens with the Ender 3's power connectors and I take everything back. Let's see if the theory you keep jerking off is true. Come on, I don't have all day.

>>1946802
Why would I want to help a walking talking Dunning-Kruger? And for free?
Also mocking someone for knowing basic physics is stupid, just so you know.

>>1946815
So far you have provided no evidence of what you're claiming or that you even have a printer in the first place.
Get out, /ohm/tard, this is not the place for you to play armchair electrician.

>>1946816
>knowing stuff is for the stoopid
Typical

Just so you know, I'm not mad at you, I am laughing at you. Enjoy your housefire.

Before any of you girls hate scissor each other any further over the subject of tinned wires in terminal blocks, you'll want to note that just tightening down your screws after @ a hundred hours of power is an acceptable fix; the solder is going to flow where it's going to flow after that amount of time.

>>1946846
I had a 2.6kW Xray tube burn down a few months ago because of some shithead before me decided to tin the terminals of the heating wires (it goes seperate to the main cables into simple terminal blocks similar in the 3D printer) rendering a quarter mil lab equipment into trash. I'm not going to open a debate over mundane everyday electric stuff. It is your and retardanons responsibility and your problem if your house burns down. bonus point if you live in an apartment and make all the families evacuate the building in the middle of the winter because your housefire burned down their life as well.

What do you guys do with your empty spools?

>>1946639
>>1946701
they are fucking tinned, going to have to fix this then. Thanks for letting me know about this shit anon, going to be a lot more careful about electronics ordered from china from now on, and I got a fucking K40 laser in transit lol

>>1946878
I make shelfs out of them.

>>1946907
That is an excellent idea! My dad also needs some small containers I'll make one for him as well!

>>1946639
That's a prusa though.

>>1946921
Same shit

Wire terminals or bust, kids

Will I get arrested for selling 3d prints if they are taken directly form or inspired by movies?

>>1947075
Wait until after Disney goes bankrupt.

New Thread
>>1947087

>>1947034
what about ferrules

>>1947146
ferrules bueller's day off

>>1945123
what does this dorito do?

>>1947075
no one from etsy selling these shits for decades has yet to have trouble.