/diy/ - Do It Yourself

From previous thread... my second ever print. I'm actually shocked how well things have been printing for me. I watched a bunch of tutorials and have lurked in here for few weeks and have asked questions prior to printing and I'm really happy with the results I'm getting so far. I also didn't buy the cheapest filament so that has something to do with it too.
Thanks so much guys!

>>1941833
>>1941821
>salt/oven method stuff looks like shit afterwards
For some cases you may want function over form anon. For a thread that will live inside another part, I would prefer it to look a tad rough and stay true than to have it look pretty and get so warped that it doesn't mate. Talcum powder or other fine powders may work too but aren't as soluble and may make even a bigger mess.
>I printed that knob linked above. would appreciate feedback.
You're welcome for the link. It looks relatively clean, but it's an easy print. The z-seam shows a bit in the first picture, but I bet it blends between the knurls.
>also, how do you remove filament from the printer once you're done?
Heat it up, pull real carefully. Haven't had problems so far, but some people get the drop inside the heating element to detach and clog. Try running the filament change function of your printer, without feeding it new filament.

>>1941837
Thanks so much anon. I'm currently printing few more easy prints... I'm printing 2020 extrusion cover (I got scratched on the side of the printer) and the Z-axis filament guard (so the filament never gets the chance to rub against the z-axis screw). I'll post them when they're done.
It's late but tomorrow I'll print squash ball feet that so many people talked about in the prev thread.

>>1941849
>I'm printing 2020 extrusion cover (I got scratched on the side of the printer)
Just curious, how so? Is it an end cover or did you manage to scratch yourself with the inside slot of a profile?

>>1941853
I cut myself on this. it's sharp af. Gonna sand it down or something.
Also, I printed this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876628
but it's no good. too loose and just falls off. Anyone have some better designs?

>>1941870
I jammed a tool holder on that corner (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886395).). The filament guide (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932)) has a base that holds on real hard and which you can print by itself.

>>1941870
>>1941875
I just realized that, while some tool holders get all around the corner, that one specifically doesn't. So disregard that (although it can still be useful by itself) and do look into the filament guide.

>>1941870
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015832

>>1941875
>>1941878
>>1941880
Thanks! As for printing filament guide to use it as a cover, I plan on printing this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967567
so I can mount the spool on the side. I feel this is a much better design than feeding the filament from the top.

OK, so I printed that cube in the previous thread and I just measured the dimensions with digital calipers. What now?

>>1941882
What I referred to from the filament guide was that it has a cap piece that you can print by itself. You could also later use it as a base to mount other stuff to the corner.
Regarding your side spool mount, this one may help you save t-nuts by directly fitting into the rail:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281488

>>1941884
put a ruler on your hotbed and measure the distance of x/y travel when you put in 100/200mm to make sure they are exact. if not, change steps/mm
check esteps, print a temptower. your cube looks a bit under extruded

>>1941884
follow this guide as it'll spit out gcode https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
try shaking your bed, the y-gantry usually comes loose from the factory

My filament is not adhering to the bed after my last print I have the magnetic bed. Do I need to spray something? Or do I need to level the bed again? It's sticking to the sides of the print bed just fine. Bed preheated to 60. Using pla.

Is my bed warped? The center is perfect (in green) and has a glasslike finish. The red sections are kind of bubbly and very rough. It's not water ingress to the pla, it's a brand new roll. All the outside sections are kind of shit actually, the skirt didn't adhere but the edge of the actual print did.
Any advice?

Why is there this annoying ass gap in the inner wall?

>>1941960
Just to add to this, I have levelled to the point where all four corners grab a sheet of paper, the center is not grabbing the paper. And hair spray is not helping, so I am guessing the center is now too low. How do I fix this?

What is the best printable in ear headphone case?
I have the Tin T2s if that matters

What stepper motor should I get?

>>1941821
>how do you remove filament from the printer once you're done
How I do it: during the cooldown when it reaches between 90-80°C I pull on the filament, it is solid enough not to remain in there but soft enough to pull away. When I forget to take it out on cooldown I just preheat hotend, wait for the temp to reach above 70°C and pull it out. Then cooldown.

>>1941960
>>1941972
Clean it with IPA, many takes with new papertowel. You have contaminants (much likely fingerprints) and a single cleaning only smears it around. Make sure it is properly clean by wiping 4-5 times with generous amount of IPA and then try again.
Also don't touch the bed surface!

>>1941970
Seems like your hotend is clogged. Have you done the hotend fix mod with the trapped PTFE tube?

>>1941998
I have isopropyl wipes, are those good enough? Cleaned with isopropyl - first layer wont stick
Cleaned with isopropyl then hair spray, sticks, but print comes unstuck half way through printing.

>>1942002
Depends if it has any additives, if yes then no. Any alcohol is good as long as it is pure.
Also if you don't have gloves on the wet paper towel can dissolve the grease from your fingers and smear it over the bed, so either use ample amount of paper as well to distance your fingers from the cleaning area or use gloves.

>>1942007
My center portion of the bed is lower than all four corners which is an issue I think, I cant get good paper in the center without crushing the nozzle in the corners

>>1942008
Update so far Ive put down some packing tape after the bed was heated, sprayed it with hair spray right before print, its sticking so far, Ill see if print comes unstuck or not half way. I thought the extra thickness might help. Trying to print a 20x20x20mm cube for a test

>>1942008
Put a piece of paper below the magnetic bed

How the fuck do I find this point in my Gcode so I can delete everything before it so I can resume my fucking print.

>>1942020
Yeah I am thinking that... since the clear plastic packing tape looks like it has worked perfectly, print is at 90% now and its perfect, I am thinking this must be about the nozzle not getting close enough to the bed in the center.. but it doesnt explain how it worked for 2 prints perfectly before that.

>>1942024
Well... It worked

>>1942023
You should've enabled the resume print function from the beginning

What slicer should I use for my Sidewinder X1? I can't decide between Cura and PrusaSlicer/Slic3r.

>>1942030
where the fuck do you do that?

>>1942038
In the resume print option

>>1942034
Cura works for most people.
By my experience Cura printed right from the get go while PrusaSlicer needed tinkering with the setting just to get an acceptable first layer that doesn't fall apart and even then it never came close to the results from Cura. Plus Cura has the superior tree supports.

>>1942040
doesn't exist for me friendo

>>1942053
flash the new Marlin for your printer

Why was the OP from the old thread reused in this one? Wasn't there enough prints and fails posted to make a new collage?

>>1941995
Yeah, but that looks (((suspicious)))

>>1941995
I printed a small chess piece with 50% gyroid and my printer sounded like a machine gun during the infill.

>>1942152
I have experience in both, cubic is the standard for 3D strength, grid for quick lesser 3D strength (mostly Z-axis)

Learning. Left due to slow travel moves. Center due to 3k travel acceleration.

>>1942168
Stock Cura settings worked for me right out of the box.

>>1942177
The skew is in the y direction. I have a large bed and 3k accel was too much. I'm not sure if it was the belt or motor.

>>1942180
The motor can skip steps when overloaded, either from the carriage/belt getting stuck or it receiving an overly huge motion command it obviously can't complete due to inertia. So yes, it was from the too bigg acc settings.

>>1942152
>>1941779
The new frame for the tensioner is done. Pretty nice overall save for some curling in the overhangs. I have a meeting right now, but as soon as I'm done I'll replace the stock tensioner and tell you.

Is there a setting hidding in Cura that would guarantee the infill to be so porous that I could pour epoxy into it?

And no, 0% infill will not work for me.

>>1941884
First buy a gauge block to check the calipers.

>>1942223
5-10% gyroid?

>>1942183
When I mounted the tensioner on the Y axis, the belt creeped to the left and rubbed against the profile end. Also it was a mm or so lower than with the fixed metal tensioner. Somehow, that doesn't happen when mounting it on the X axis.

>>1941996
Thanks anon!
>>1941950
>>1941945
Thank you! That link is amazing.
>>1941886
Printing it now. Thanks.

Gifted an old prusa mendel i2. Loaded new firmware on it, and took the guys old configurations on it (Chinese preconfigured slic3r files). Trying to print a simple square seems to get through the first layer but then tears the corners and pulls up the first layer on subsequent passes.

Any ideas?

I need some general engineering help. I'm trying to make a complex part on the 3D printer but I'm not sure how to make things fit together. In woodwork, there's a dovetail joint that you can use to fit many corners together. But how do you do shit like this in 3D? Use glue? But glue joins are shit and break off. Printing it as one piece is no good because I'd like to be able to take it apart to fit things inside.

Are there any "simple engineering and design of parts for idiots" resources? Like pics of examples of how things fit together?

I'm learning FreeCAD but I find it incredibly hard to make anything since I don't have a grasp of how things can and should connect to each other...

>>1942319
Hole and screw with nut. Most brainlet option and also very easy to implement.

>>1942319
>Like pics of examples of how things fit together?
You mean porn?

>>1942319
>use glue?
Sometimes, yeah. Cyanoacrilate is your friend.
>dovetail
Too. Particularly, if the pieces have their layers aligned, they can lock with each other along layer lines. Also you can use clips and similar stuff.
>>1942328
>Hole and screw with nut
Desu, also threaded inserts are dope.

An important issue, where you can use your experience to your advantage, is that 3D-printed parts and wood are anisotropic. Wood is strong in compression, and is weak in tension across the grain and in shear along the grain. 3D-printed parts are strong in compression, and weak in tension normal to the layer planes and in shear across layer planes. The dimensions of said anisotropy are different but if you have previous experience in wood you have a leg up over Joe Random Noob.

>Are there any "simple engineering and design of parts for idiots" resources? Like pics of examples of how things fit together?
Don't be afraid to ask here if "${SEARCH_ENGINE}" isn't being helpful.

>>1942328
>Hole and screw with nut. Most brainlet option and also very easy to implement.
Have a pic of how it's suppose to look?
>>1942333
no, fuck porn.
>>1942335
I want to avoid glue as much as possible.

Any examples of things that snap together?

I want to build a filament extruded. I don’t think it has to be as hard as most people’s approaches I’ve seen. Like I could use a double melt or hot end. Or a tapered nozzle that gets squeezed down to 1.75mm, then an extended tube 1.75mm dia where it cools down right at the end of tube.

I seen most people grind up the plastic waste and use a screw drive to feed them into a hopper, but honestly I’m thinking just to melt it all in one hopper, then open a valve and push it through an extruder

>>1942340
>Any examples of things that snap together?
>>1941875
This filament guide
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

>>1942350
>I don’t think it has to be as hard as most people’s approaches I’ve seen
That's what most people think at first, honey

So I made an actual part to use for something thats an exhaust vent.

Well theres a really annoying artifact line a solid 2mm wide down the side i need to fix because it's going to be sucking air, what do you use to fix holes for practical parts and also fix a few layers that didn't bond right.

I really don't want to reprint because its a heavy part and a waste of fil, and i don't care what it looks like 100% practical

>>1942357
Thanks!
So how does one modify an stl file? Any linux tools to convert it to something that Freecad can read?

>>1942370
>Well theres a really annoying artifact line a solid 2mm wide down the side i need to fix because it's going to be sucking air, what do you use to fix holes for practical parts and also fix a few layers that didn't bond right.
depending on how bad it is, I use a soldering iron to melt them together. but, this leaves a shit finish and is not meant for something to be seen. alternatively, CA glue will work.

>>1942373
>Any linux tools to convert it to something that Freecad can read?
Have you tried FreeCAD itself?
https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Import_from_STL_or_OBJ

>>1941970
that is a slicer issue

>>1942000
why would a clogged hot end change the g-code to create a turnaround at that point in the wall

>>1942378
That? That looked like part of the STL. I looked at the irregular voids and mess in your walls and had immediate flashbacks to my clogged hotend in the beginning.
If you didn't do the hotend fix yet I highly recommend doing it now.

>>1941961
It could be over-extrusion.

>>1942374
Yah i need to add material

>>1942425
I have a 3D pen ($6 from chinks) for that.

>>1942428
Can you feed regular filiment into those things?

Why don't people use 0.8 and 1.0 nozzles more? I love them on my CR-10 for big builds

>>1942434
Not him but I guess you could
>>1942436
>Why don't people use 0.8 and 1.0 nozzles more?
>I love them on my CR-10 for big builds
Because some of us are poorfags with E3 and do smol builds
Jokes aside, even if it's not at the top, it's in my upgrades list

>>1941961
yep it is warped

Calibration techniques? I have a Chinese printer that doesn't auto level and I currently use post-it notes to level the four corners just that it gets annoying because sometimes it is not accurate and I need to start over, are there any other methods to doing this?

>>1942436
Why don't people use .1mm nozzles more?

>>1942511
because they suck ass and barely give you anything more for super increased print times.

if you want something that fine detailed get a resin

Will this work on the Ender 3 Pro?

>>1942299
thanks

>>1942436
i have anything up to 1.2mm nozzles, I like how fast things get done with 0.8mm layers.
>>1942511
smallest I used were 0.2mm and it wasnt that good of an experience while big nozzles work flawlessly
>>1942504
look up mesh bed leveling. also if you need to level it more often than once or twice a month I'd look into mechanical issues with the printer
>>1942514
from a first glance yes, look up mk8 nozzle dimensions to double check

>>1942436
Need a volcano hotend for keeping same speeds usually unless you can calibrate how much temp increase you need.

Could anyone tell me what these brown nodules are?
Printing a support strut for my ender 5 using flashforge white PLA, at 60mm/s, 220c on an all-metal micro swiss kit. Using cura for my slicer.

>>1942547

Burnt plastic. You're picking up material on the nozzle somehow and it's eventually getting rubbed into the print.

Really, the only thing I can think of that causes this is not pulling the little bit of oozing material off of the nozzle after it heats up, right before the print starts.

>>1942547
>>1942560
Overextrusion or not retracting during travel can cause wisps that then get snagged on the nozzle, too.

>>1942560
>>1942547

>the only thing I can think of

Actually, I take that back. Bad retraction or overextrusion can cause little nubs of material to stick up off the current layer. The nozzle can pick these up later, then cause them to burn, before bits of darkened material slough off the nozzle and stick to the print.

>>1942567
Beat ya to it. :)

>>1941995
>gyroid
>uses too much material
Set it to a lower infill. You can get away with a way lower density with gyroid than most other infills due to the way the layers work and how the bridging is done on the first non-infill layer

>>1942562
>>1942567
Thanks boys, having a look at my retraction settings now. I set it at .8mm/s for this project, it was what was recommended for the direct drive kit I bought. Might increase retraction by .2 and decrease flow rate by 5%.

>>1942573
Gyroid doesn't have straight material lines to lead forces, it is designed to buckle under load. Don't use it for structural parts!

>>1942024
Goddamn, I thought my mesh bed leveling was a bit gimmicky, but goddamn am I glad that I got a printer without bed adjustment.

>>1942629
I set my bed level once then I don't have to touch it for months, it just prints fine. I use Ender 3 Pro though, no auto bed level.

>>1942319
Here's an example of a dovetail I used. Just cut the part in two with a parallelogram profile, chamfered the edges of the fat part of the dovetail and the outer edges of the hole, then press/pulled the angled dovetail faces back 0.05mm. I can push the parts together by hand, but need a hammer to dislodge it, because the thin edges hurt my fingees and due to the geometry you can't get good purchase on it without locking up the joint even more. You might have to increase the clearance if your printer is shit. Got the chamfer and press/pull thing from this cunt: https://youtu.be/bPcoza4gIxM

>>1942640
>parallelogram profile
You mean trapezoid profile

>>1942697
Yep, keep making stupid mistakes today.

>dust off my printer after months of disuse
>find out that my rolls of PLA went brittle
>baking didnt help

fucccck, i suppose i'll buy the higher quality stuff next time

>>1942730
Were they even remotely sealed in some way? Or is this a sign that it was shit from the beginning? I've only had my printer for two months, and my filament is in a drybox.

>>1942730
Keep your filament in a sealed box with a bag of dessiccant

How do I fix this?
Ender 3 Pro
Hatchbox PLA filament

>>1942748
And pic

>>1942749
F

>>1942749
>chinkshit rubber cover melts when printing PLA
Kek
Should have bought Prusa.

>>1942748
>>1942749
do you have a hot air station? Or maybe a heatgun? Hair dryer maybe?
Your first plan of action is to loosen all that plastic and remove it somehow. It's probably hard as a rock right now and there's no way you'll be able to remove it. So you need to heat it up somehow.

>>1942748
>pla
dip it in boiling water or wrap it in tinfoil and throw it into the oven for the pla to soften up
now is probably a good time to upgrade to an all metal hotend

whats the advantage of print heads that have the extruder right on top of them? are they worth buying?

>>1942023
Divide 95.4 by the layer height and you will get your current layer, edit the g-code and ctrl+f this: LAYER:1000 (replacing the number, of course). Delete every layer before that.

should I buy the ender 5 instead of ender 3? why ?

>>1942878

They don't have all the slack to deal with in a bowden tube. In particular, this means they are much better at dealing with flexible filaments, the worst of which are flat-out not printable through a bowden tube. Direct-drive heads are also less finicky with retraction in general, for the same reason.

The major downside is that they're way heavier, meaning worse performance for a given motion system.

>>1942892
Yes, because it's theoretically better.
No, because it's not as widely proven and adopted as the Ender 3 is.

>>1942002
>>1942007
I thought using alcohols were not recommended on the magnetic surface as it hardens it?

What's the point of still using PLA when PETG exists and is cheap and plentiful??? It's better than PLA in every which way you look at it. Why do so many people still recommend PLA?

>>1941828
Question: what is the best way to wash a SLA print?

I have an elegoo marz printer that has been very nice. But my wash process (99% iso bath then distilled water bath) keeps leaving behind a film of while resin. Am i just not washing/drying my models enough?

>>1942895
elaborate
I dont get it

>>1942947
PLA is easier to print and is stronger for structural parts, it also has better layer adhesion. PLA can be heat treated and some PLA with additives (PLA+, Greentec/Pro) can have 120-160°C glassing temperature instead of 60°C (and 70°C for PETG)

>>1942954
Not that dude but I'll explain it for you.
The ender 5 is a coreXY printer, aka the extruder moves only horizontally and the bed moves vertically. This is good for fast prints and accuracy because there's less mass that has to be moved around quickly. You don't change height as quickly as the horizontal axes.
The Ender 3 has the nozzle moving in the X and Z planes, with the bed doing Y. The problem with this is that the bed is much heavier than the hotend, especially if you have the glass plate. This induces a bit of artifacting at higher speeds.

Now, if you're new to 3D printing the E3 is the recommended choice because it's smaller and easier to set up, it has a large community that makes guides for it and there's tons of printable mods for it.
Then there's cost. The premium you pay for the E5 only brings you a slight improvement in print quality, which you can obtain on the E3 through careful tuning. If you're willing to pay the price of the E5 then you might as well get a CR-10 so you get something the E3 can't offer: a fuckhueg build area.

>>1942894
>>1942878
They are also offer a big advantage when printing with a tiny nozzle (0.15-0.3mm), you are normally printing slower anyways with those, so the additional weight of the extruder put on the hotend doesn't matter as much, but the short distance between the nozzle and extruder gives better control with the filament output.

>>1941828
Since resin printers are becoming better and cheaper and i can't find anything on the topic at the moment; is it possible to cure UV resin with a chemical? Like it its possible with normal 2k resins?
It's for curing hollow parts or parts with an internal layout.

>>1942989
>The ender 5 is a coreXY printer
NO IT'S NOT!!!!!!!
The Ender 5 is an X-Y-Z printer like the Ender 3 but the axis are flipped. Instead of moving Y axis bed it has a descending Z axis bed so it is not affected by vibration. The print head is moved in the X-Y axis traditionally.
CoreXY is very very different.

>>1943002
>>1942989
This. Ender 5 isn't CoreXY

>>1943002
>>1943005
>ender 5 isn't coreXY
According to everyone else but 2 autists on 4chan, it is.

>>1943006
You hsould look up what corexy is, my dumb friend

>>1943006
Fundamentally, no.

>>1943009
You should shut your whore mouth if a 30s google search disproves you.

>>1943011
That's exactly how the E5 moves: forwards/backwards and side to side. No fundamental difference.

>>1943014
>That's exactly how the E5 moves
No, it does not, you arrogant little shitstain

>>1943015
Then how about you describe how the hotend moves in your imagined coreXY?

>>1943014
Again... Fundamentally, no.

>>1943018
>a manual and automatic car both work the same because they both use an engine to power the wheels

>>1943019
inb4 he still can't see it

>>1943019
So you admit it moves the same, but now you're trying to nitpick on motor placement.
1/10 your bait fell off the hook, not replying again.

>>1943023
I never said it didn't move the same, I said the Ender 5 wasn't a CoreXY, since CoreXY uses a different movement system entirely, not just different motor placement.

>>1943023
Look you retard, if the Ender 5 was indeed a CoreXY printer, then why does Creality not describe it as a CoreXY printer, while clearly describing the Ender 6 as a CoreXY printer?
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ender-6-corexy-3d-printer
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-ender-5-3d-printer

How do you measure distances of features inside of the STL file?
I'm trying to find a clip to hold my filament spool and saw this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42528
It has about a dozen clips for various filaments but of course not my filament. But I could figure out which one would fit the best if I could somehow measure distances.
How do you do that? I have used calipers to measure my spool...

Just bought a printer to make drone parts and gun stuff.

Why is there so much hate for petg? It doesnt fill my room with fucking dust and its so much nicer to work with once you figure out temps. This is my very first roll (overture) so maybe ingot lucky but damned if I don't enjoy using this material.
Yea im printing at 30mms instead of 40mms but what fucking ever, scorpion receiver is going to take a week regardless. And im already making money selling shit to friends.

This hobby is a lot of fucking fun, but protip, dont buy a 3dTouch unless tou want it to fail halfway through leveling your bed and have to resquare the entire fucking machine.

First print I've done, seems to be a little gappy between outer lines, and from the inside to the walls.
Corners slightly bulged, and the top texture is weird and inconsistent.

>>1943079
Is that a preloaded gcode? Kind of looks like last layer "ironing" but also not, kind of confusing

>>1943082
Just a sample item from the printer, yep.

>>1943086
Probably not a problem then, try slicing your own file, yea cura is going to take some time getting used to and what the fuck means what.

But im 80% certain thats due to an "ironing pass" where it hits the same layer again without extruding anything

>>1943091
Alright, thanks. Even though it came out wonky, I'm still pretty impressed at the speed and quality of it, feels and looks nice in person.

>>1943053
Import it into Blender and use the Measure plugin, or figure out how to convert it to a format usable by your CAD program of choice and go from there

I've noticed that when I start a Cura-created print, first the bed preheats and then the nozzle preheats. Is there a way for them to preheat at the same time? I know that when I select "Prepare PLA" in Ender3/Marlin menu, both of them heat at the same time...

>>1943111
Check your start GCode. Bed heats first since it takes longer and you don't want stuff to char in your nozzle while the bed heats

>>1943111
Leave it be. In fact, start preheating the bed way in advance, so it has time for thermal expansion to work and set into shape.

>>1943120
>>1943122
thanks anons!

why is cura so off for my print times? whenever I slice it will say something like estimated time of 1.5 hrs, but then when I actually print it'll be 2 or 2.5 which is a huge margin of error. Do i need to tune Cura to know how fast my printer is?

>>1943155
Cura is garbage, what do you expect?

All right, I complained about sharp edges on 2020 extrusion so I finally learned how to use a 3D package and I've created my own end cover. It should fit all extrusions and especially Ender 3 one because of the extra constraint of the screws on the top. I even added chamfers and it's a tight fit. Comments? Anything I should have done differently?

>>1943164
instead of D shape I probably would have gone for T shape, less plastic, faster print. print looks good there though

>>1943165
I wasn't sure how sturdy it would be and how good of a snap fit it would create. I'll experiment when I get some free time. This design is proven so I went with ti.
The one I initially tried has little cubes but those provide zero grip. They literally fell out when I put them in. Maybe if scaled they'd work but I didn't wanna waste time printing another set.

>>1943169
in my experience if youu need a friction fit you should cant the wall outwards slightly and then put a gap in the middle to allow it to spring slightly. it works p well if you're not like pulling on the joint and just need ti to stay in place

>>1943155
Enable jerk and acceleration control from inside cura or configure your printer to match cura if its not listening to the accel/jerk commands.

Just finished 1h 50m estimated print in 2h 5m after tweaking that shit

>>1942955
Not necessarily stronger imo, but more rigid and possible more dimensionally stable.

>>1943023
Holy fuck, you have both images at your fingertips, how can you not grasp what everyone is shouting at you? Are you saying H-bot is the same as well? Look shit up before confidently pounding your hollow chest.

>>1943091
Not if we're (fairly) assuming prusa uses prusaslicer to slice the sample files, there's no ironing pass feature in PS.

>>1943111
Yes, before printing you auto-home on your printer menu, then go to Pre-heat PLA in the printer menu and start pre-heat, it will heat up to 180°C on the nozzle and 40°C on the bed.

Hi /3dpg/ I need some serious advice. Please help me out.

The Situation: My first and only 3D printer (Monoprice Maker Select Plus) is dying. I have been replacing parts and it seems like the more I replace the more breaks. This design has some serious deficits and I am tired of band-aiding it. At times it did make some really amazing prints though.

1. I am trying to start an internet business designing and printing automotive parts. I need to get a workhorse printer that will allow me to prototype and produce really clean low volume parts at 0.1mm layer height. It needs to be good printing PETG all day, and not be a constantly moving target. I have a million other things related to designing parts and trying to start a business that need my attention over fiddling with a temperamental printer. I'm looking at:
>Creality Ender 5 Plus
>CR-6 SE.
Any other recommendations? I would like to get away from bed slingers if possible.

2. I was able to print functional and strong 32TPI threads with my Maker Select Plus before it really started going south. I would like to disassemble it and DIY together a new high accuracy printer for doing 140mm and smaller parts. Precision and repeatability are the objective, speed is a distant second. Any ideas what a good design/kinematics would be?

Anyone tried this JAYO stuff? They say they're related to Sunlu, but why would they branch their filament off? https://www.amazon.com/JAYO-Filament-Accuracy-Clogging-Printers/dp/B08BRKB6K2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=JAYO+PETG+Filament+1.75mm%2C+2kg+Spool+%284.4lbs%29+PETG+3D+Printer+Filament%2C+Accuracy+%2B%2F-+0.02+mm%2C+Stable+Output%2C+No+Knots%2C+No+Clogging%2C+Fit+Most+FDM+Printers%2C+PETG+Grey%2BGrey&qid=1604303248&s=industrial&sr=1-1

Whats the deal?

>>1943258
>designing and printing automotive parts
>Creality Ender 5 Plus
>CR-6 SE
Set your sights higher. Unless these are trinkets like phone holders or whatever, PETG won't cut it. Look into Markforged printers. At the very least, seriously consider a Prusa if you want something you don't want to fuck with on a regular basis that can just churn out parts without problems.

>>1943258
>printing automotive parts
You will need high tension and high temp stability, also good UV stability in the material for those parts, I recommend Greentec Pro Carbon and maybe ASA but you will need an enclosure for that. You will need a hardened nozzle as well, large diameter, 0.8-1mm to be able to print fast in large volume.

I appreciate the replies.
>>1943260

So right now I am working on LED driving light mounts that integrate a ball adjusting mechanism. It should pretty much be entirely out of UV light. The 20% infill test prints I am doing out of PLA feel rigid as fuck and when I try flexing them I put in enough force that I am legitimately scared that if they let go they will tear up my skin, but they hardly budge. Materials are important but I think geometry is equally important. I am trying to use every advantage additive manufacturing gives me to create forms that are minimum material/maximum supported against expected loads.

What's your concern with PETG? Longevity under vibration/load? I'm looking to stay away from engine parts at the moment and focus on body stuff, lighting, interior pieces. Stuff like this driving light mounting system, relatively light load/heat, but still needs rigidity and durability.

I have seriously looked at Prusa but I don't understand what makes them worth the cost of admission. There are tons of bed slingers out there, what do I get for paying $1k for one? I can afford to spend that much on a good choice that will last but I really can't afford to burn $1k on a dead end.

>>1943262
So if we scratch out the UV part, you don't think PETG will meet the high tension, high temp stability requirements. Worst I am designing for right now is the interior of a car in an Arizona summer. When I get to engine stuff I am going to have to do a complete rethink of my manufacturing process.

I'm looking at Pro Carbon and ASA now for when I grow into the more extreme environments. ASA in particular looks like really interesting stuff. I think for Carbon I rather print molds and lay up prepreg.

>>1943271
Petg has its Tg at 70°C, only 10°C higher than regular PLA. Greentec has it at 120°C, Greentec Pro at 160°C. ASA has its Tg at 100°C.
PETG also becomes very brittle below 5°C

>>1943271
>What's your concern with PETG?
I was mostly worried that you'd be making parts for under the hood and then be yet another person who was surprised that their PLA tube holding widget or whatever completely melted. Interior and trim should be fine provided you don't live in an area with significant heat since PLA will warp if it gets >40 in the car or if it's in direct sunlight for a long time, not sure about PETG.

>what makes them worth the cost of admission
Well, I still have my Prusa MK1 and have barely maintenanced it, and it still runs fine almost a decade later, FWIW. They're solid machines that are hard to fuck up unless you really REALLY try to or are an absolute retard dead-set on abusing the thing.

>what do I get for paying $1k for one
A pre-built one, because you can get the kits for $250 less, which people seem to forget all the time.

>interior of a car in an Arizona summer
GLHF, I'm in AZ as well and I wouldn't dare put anything short of polycarb in my car anymore after I tried some PLA parts that were in completely shaded areas and they started drooping in a day, were deformed in a week. Maybe ABS if I was feeling adventurous.

>>1943274
Carbon additives absorb UV and commonly used as UV stabilizers in plastics, that is why your car tires are black. Carbon PLA and Carbon Greentec Pro are UV stabilized, PETG is mostly UV stable from the get go but some coloration might be less, as in some colors might lose intensity over time, especially transculent materials.

>>1943259
Maybe it's their lower quality stuff/rejects?

what would cause the first like 1/2" of extrusion at the base layer to stick to the nozzle and form a little stupid string artifact?

>>1943288
overextrusion probably, more material is pushed into the hotend than what is calculated with.

>>1943275
>because you can get the kits for $250 less
No, the kit is around 75% of the price of the built one.
Prusa is the iPhone of 3D printing.

>100% homeoffice for rest of the year due to lockdown "light"
>why not throw some money at the printer
>a 32-bit board it is
how important is processor speed? on the list is the skr mini v2, skr 1.4turbo and lerdge k-series
it boils down to 72/ 120/ 165mhz

>>1943274
Yeaah that is way better performing. Those are recommendations I am going to keep in my back pocket for when I am ready.

>>1943275
So with Prusa do you actually get quality or is it 50% a better pick of chinesum parts and 50% branding? The place where I really struggle is the price combined with it being a bed slinger. I really feel like CoreXY and Ultimaker kinematics are the future and the Mendel design is ultimately very flawed. There is this discontinuity in my head between Prusa being the prosumer choice, and quality yet it is in the form of a obviously flawed design. Heck they didn't even bother to put a brace on the Z structure.

Please go ahead and correct me here. I'm guessing you know yours inside and out.

>GLHF with AZ heat
What's weird is I have read this but then I have left thick parts in one of my old cars that sits in the sun all summer and it didn't appear to change. I know it got 140+ in that car. Just standard hatchbox PLA.

>>1943300
Look up PLA crystallization heat treatment, I’m pretty sure you did that to yours without knowing

>>1943259
Could be
1) price-protect their name-brand stuff
2) Ad is completely lying

>>1943271
Don't want to shill prusa, but I've been prepping myself by reading /3dpg/ for months before getting my MK3S. I'll just say that I was left wondering what half the shit I read here was even good for. Some time after getting my bearings with the printer I started frequenting these threads again. It was a strange feeling not having any of the problems posted in every thread. It does flex pretty good. I bought chinesium 0.8 nozzles (the size is not even supported in the packaged slicer profiles in PS, or for firmware generated paths) but it runs fine if I limit the part cooling fans to 50% or so, I can do 0.6 mm layers on it. Pretty much justwerks. The only recurring issues I had was flex coiling in the heatbreak tube and getting stuck on the extruder gears and extruder gears randomly eating into soft PLA due to heat creep through the extruder gears I think. Both have been very rare occurrences.

>>1943356
Most of the problems here are from people who don't know how to hold a screwdriver let alone put together a 3D printer. If you go on plebbit in the prusa section you will see all kind of stupid shit related problems from stupid people who don't know how things work.
My printer is an Ender 3 (Pro) and I put it together paying attention to stuff and not overtightening/keeping stuff loose and it printed right from the start. I also frequently maintain my stuff and take care about looking up what setting does what and when is it needed. All of this is also recommended with a prusa.

The bottom line is, if you know your stuff, get an Ender 3/5 Pro or some other more known china brand.
If not, then get a prusa and it will be guaranteed you will fuck up somehow.

>>1943356
The Prusa is better designed but if you ask me it's not exactly worth the large premium you pay over the standard chinesium Ender 3.
For around 150$ you can fix almost all the problems and improve performance drastically. In a home environment the E3 makes more sense, especially from a financial perspective. If you're just printing PLA to fix shit around the house you don't even need those, the E3 is quite good right out the box.
Prusa makes sense in a commercial setup where you need to set it up and then print almost 24/7 with little to no maintenance. If you're selling your shit you don't have time to fiddle with each printer you have.

>>1943369
I forgot ro mention that I'm in yurop as well, so bo import fees or exorbitant shipping prices.

>>1943376
I'm also in yurop and I got my E3Pro through the official Creality website.
They have warehouses in the EU so you don't pay import tax.

>>1943079
You can significantly improve surface finish on top layers by enabling ironing.

>>1943378
Yeah, when those warehouses have stock. i had to resort to Amazon and Comgrow.

>>1943376
what do you mean, banggood and ali ship enders from Czech/polish/ Spanish warehouses both tax free and within a week at no additional cost. If you order directly from China and tick the tariff insurance box they'll ship it through proxy-countries to your door in like 2 weeks. at least that was my experience in Germany

can anyone help, why does the part I just designed load like this in the slicer?

>>1943404
nevermind I exported it as dwg instead as stl and it worked

>>1943404
How many bodies are there in the part?

>>1943403
I meant that buying a prusa might be even less worth it to >>1943271, if he has to also pay for shipping and customs outside of Europe.

>>1943410
4 but grouped together as 1. weird that this only happens when I export it as stl

>>1943445
Check your export parameters.
It's generally a good practice to merge bodies when they all make up a single part.

>>1943445
You exported only one body, the problem is not in your software

>>1943290
>Prusa is the iPhone of 3D printing.
No, that would be Ultimaker

>>1942948
Ultrasonic cleaner (jewelry cleaner will do) and some sort of degreasing cleaner (I like LAs Totally Awesome, Mean Green or Mr Clean yellow are also go tos). 5-10 mins does the job; if your ultrasonic heats the bath it makes pulling supports easier too.

>>1943290
>no
>posts screencap in euros when anon mentioned USD
pic related. The kit is literally $250 less and either way, 75% of 1000 is... still 750, so I'm not sure what you're trying to say here

>>1943300
>So with Prusa do you actually get quality
I've found them to be pretty good. The parts are solid, you won't get anything that's (noticeably) Chinesium and apparently they even upgraded to Misumi parts recently. You can leave the printer alone for like a year and come back to it without any problems past needing to wipe the print bed. Their customer support is loads better than the usual "you bought it so now it's your problem, pay us to fix it, what do you mean it's a manufacturing defect, fuck you" mentality most vendors have, and are super helpful with the exception of the occasional turboretard who doesn't know what he's saying.

It is a bed slinger yeah, but I've run mine at 200% speed and haven't noticed any quality issues. I haven't done super fine prints but either way I'm really happy with the parts I get out of it, especially compared to other printers I've used. Even Stratasys machines barely beat it on quality if you set it up right. I am looking forward to seeing their supposed new CoreXY design whenever they get around to actually announcing it, though, hopefully soon.
>they didn't bother to put a brace on the Z
The frame is IIRC an aluminum alloy with (thick) 8020 'legs', it's solid as fuck, no problems with it warping or anything.

The thing that really sells it for me is that I can do what the printer is supposed to do in the first place - print. I don't need to "upgrade" it out of the box to get it to baseline, I don't need to spend days calibrating it, I don't need to relevel it every week or tighten bolts that are loose or whatever, I can just design my parts and slap them on there. I know that printers can be "projects" for some people like hot rod car kits where you're doing everything from the ground up, but not needing to do so many tweaks that I've seen people do to their cheap printers to make them work right is so liberating.

Also, yeah, you probably annealed your PLA by accident.

>>1943300
>So with Prusa do you actually get quality
I've been pretty happy with mine. I had a brief issue where the button wouldn't click right out of the box, but I took the board off and put it back together and haven't had an issue that wasn't my fault since.

Simplify3D... tell me about it /3dpg/. Is it still worth getting and learning. Are other (free) options just as good?

>>1943558
Simplify is a good slicer with a fair number of options that are on par or exceeding Cura. It often comes with expensive printers, and is often used in professional environments.
For a hobbyist it's not worth paying for when Cura does 99% of what S3D can - and sometimes Cura can do 1% more. Unless you are dead set on S3D because you have experience with it, and you can obtain it for a very reduced price (wink wink, nudge nudge) stick with Cura or Slic3r.

>>1943558
One of the things I find frustrating as hell is that it doesn't show you which variables you've changed and there's no way to set them back to default. Changing a profile and accidentally select a different one? Fuck you, either overwrite your profile or discard every edit you made.

>>1943563
Thanks anon. The reason I ask is because when I watch videos of popular 3D dudes and when they're working on something, I notice they almost always use S3D and not cure. Even though they have videos on Cura and teach you how to use it. I always wondered why they use S3D.
I can grab a Mac version for a reduced cost but I don't wanna waste my time if it's not really needed.
So does S3D somehow produce better Gcode paths than Cura? Why do all these guys still use it? Could it be inertia because that's what they learned first?

>>1943564
That's interesting. Thanks for the insight. Any opinions on the quality of paths (and prints) it produces? I could suffer through these idiosyncrasies if it actually produces better prints.

>>1943565
>I always wondered why they use S3D.
Constitutional inertia and sponsoring - after all, getting a usually expensive slicer for free is better than freeware, right?

S3D used to be the best, especially in version 3 if I recall correctly. It really was worth the money - but the Ultimaker juggernaut has really caught up, as has Prusa's fork of Slic3r. Practically speaking, well tunes profiles of either of these will do you fine untill we hit the next revolution of slicing. That might be non-planar (I doubt it) and Cura will be more easily adapted to that, since they can do gantry-style printing (Blackbelt) and they've got the funds, but I'm thinking the next big thing will be temperature control. As in, keeping the print's top surface hot and ready for the next layer, without overheating, to improve layer adhesion. Soon, stalker, soon.

>>1943565
Could be sunk cost fallacy. "well I paid $150 for it so it HAS to be better and I don't want to just not use it..."

>>1943290
>>because you can get the kits for $250 less
>No, the kit is around 75% of the price of the built one.
how does this make any sense? 1000€*0.75=750€ which is 250€ less than 1000€ what the fuck are you trying to say?

>>1943566
>quality of paths and prints it produces
Not noticeably better enough for me to use it over PrusaSlicer - and I print things for a living. If my workflow didn't outright require it sometimes, I wouldn't touch it. Unless it's free, I wouldn't bother trying it.

>>1943583
Sorry I read that as "250$ or less".

I bought an anycubic photon during the sale they had and went through a lot of effort trobleshooting and figuring out supports to get some working prints. I use the anycubic eco grey resin.
Noe it is doing this. At the end of the print, it tries to print the entire area of the print bed a few times. I have no idea what is causing this other than some sort of file corruption. I had this issue twice before, but just making a new file was enough to fix it. Now this doesn't work anymore either.
I tried to print some rhino exhaust here, which I had done successfully 2 times before, only my previous two attempts ended up looking like this. Same for another print I tried in between.
I use pruca for orientation and supports, then chitubox for slicing.
Layer height 0.02mm
Bottom layer 3
Exposure time 8.5s
Bottom exposure time 75s
Rest is preset.
I also have a heater installed that keeps the temperature between 25°C to 28°C.
Tried 45mm/min lifting speed once, which is why I originally remade the file I was trying to print, but ended up with only supports and the fep suddenly too loose for printing. So I went back up to 65mm/min, no idea if that failure was coincidence or related.

>>1943605
Try using a different USB drive, if you haven't already. apparently the included ones are randomly shit sometimes

>>1941972
>the center is now too low. How do I fix this?
my ender 3 bed was warped from the factory also, lay a straight edge across the preheated bed from left to right, look for space underneath. mine took 2 layers of blue tape to level out. put the tape under the magnetic removable buildplate

>>1942002
clean it with acetone

>>1943609
I had replaced the included one for that reason, but the new one might have given up too. I can only find low quality sticks with 4gb. The photon just wouldn't accept the 32gb even after formating to something smaller.

>>1943645
Forgot the damn text.

I've tried so many prints now to get these fucking test square looking decent, can someone please give me some help I'm fucking retarded.

At the start of the extrusion they are always too light (this square starts in the top left)

>>1943646
Try building up pressure by printing a long line at the start of every print. Cura does it by default.

>>1943650
it does, it also doesn't do that at every corner just 2 of them

>>1943646
hotter bed for 1st layer
hotter nozzle for 1st layer
slower print speed for 1st layer
less fan for 1st layer

>>1943650
I should also mention this is with a 0.8 nozzle, should I try upping the flow?

>>1943657
>.8 nozzle
did you change this in the slicer settings?

>>1943656
I had some other problems that got fixed by upping the temps, but this is more of a not enough material at the very start issue
it's at
>initial layer:
70
210
20 mm/s
no fan

>>1943658
Yes, it's a 0.8 nozzle setting with 0.4 layer height

>>1943662
Bring down first layer print speed to 10mm/s and see from there

>>1943730
wouldn't that be less of a first layer problem and more of an extrusion problem?

Still trying now though.

>>1943758
Yeah, but you give the extruder time to build up some pressure

>>1943761
Since it only happens at the very start, looking at all the settings now.
With retraction crap, is 50 mm/s 3mm a good setting
(CR-10 mini)

Also what about "Retraction Extra Prime Amount"?

>>1943763
It means it drives a bit of filament into the nozzle after returns from retraction to "prime" the nozzle and build up pressure
I think it is in cubic mm

>>1943558
It's worth it

>>1943404
Open edges somewhere, check your model for unwelded vertices if it's not a solid model

what's the point of printing a skirt? It's in the "build plate adhesion" menu but that shit has nothing to do with helping the model adhere.
explanation I read online is something along the lines: "it primes the nozzle with filament and lets you see how the first layer is gonna go down". Cura already does a skidmark on the left hand side of the build plate anyway.
seems to me like this is a waste of time and plastic. do you guys print skirts?
does anyone here use rafts or brims?

sorry if this is retarded but I'm new to this and I'm questioning all these things that make no sense to me.

>>1943799
My best guess is that it prevents surface drafts

How many binder clips is enough?

>>1943804
Yes.

>>1943804
it makes me super super happy when it smashes into the clips when traveling and flings them across the room and screws up the print

Are bed glass upgrades a meme? I mean the one that came with mine is warped af and I was just thinking of going to a glass shop and getting some window pane cut to size.

That or a mirror surface since mirrors are supposedly more flat.

>>1943799
It's priming the extruder and giving you a chance to see if it's printing properly (not clogged, correct material, etc.) or if the first layer is the same thickness everywhere (maybe your bed's way too low in one corner). That said, I don't know why they're defaulted to more than one layer. Maybe it's easier to take off, who knows.

>>1943816
>Are bed glass upgrades a meme?
No.
>I mean the one that came with mine is warped af and I was just thinking of going to a glass shop and getting some window pane cut to size.
which brand? return it! I got the creality one and it was very flat.
>That or a mirror surface since mirrors are supposedly more flat.
Outside surface of the mirror is not flat. Backside is. If you plan on going this route, take off the metalized layer with acid and use that side.

>>1943835
cr-10 mini, it's years and years old now.
Glass shop will cut me some for like $3 to size, or $6 for a mirror.

>>1943840
I just didn't know if there was something special about the aftermarket plates and shit on amazon or if it was all branding buzzwords.

>>1943840
Creality glass surface is ground and texturized. It should be flat. If yours is not, it could be the aluminum plate that's warped. Or just return it.

Common glass is not ground. It's not very flat either (look up float glass).

If you don't wanna buy a proper plate, go the mirror route since it's more flat and make sure to use the metalized surface. You'll have to do some cleaning:
https://angelgilding.com/pub/media/documents/Mirror_Back_Removal_Kit_Instructions.pdf

I'd just spend the cash on a proper surface myself. Gong the cheap route will just make your life harder.

Hot End Fan...
How the fuck do you silence it? I have the stock fan and after installing the silent board and silencing the PSU fan with a shroud, this little fucker is the most loud thing in my setup. It's that high-pitched sound that gets annoying after a while.
Has anyone tried replacing it with something else?

>>1943849
>Creality glass surface is ground and texturized. It should be flat. If yours is not, it could be the aluminum plate that's warped. Or just return it.
mine is both.
The plate is warped, the glass is shitty, and it's just normal ass glass. also it's like 2 years old

Do you have any suggestions for a proper plate?

>>1943856
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6JXQ4W

>you don't need support bro
yeah...

>>1943886
Honestly, you're usually better off just designing it in such a manner as to not need any supports. Sometimes you don't really have a choice, but if you can avoid it...

>>1943889
I got it off Thingishit. Dude said you don't need support. Hmm..
Sliced it with Cura and Standard profile.
I did salvage it and just cleaned up the screw hole with a blade. Upper layers adhered well.
I wonder if S3D would have sliced it better... hmmmmmmmm

>>1943892
From the pics, the bottom part of that was in contact with the bed, right?
How fast were you printing?

>>1943897
Actually the top was on bed. Maybe this was my mistake.
This is from the description. When I looked at it, I just didn't see how you could print it the other way around with those huge overhangs.
If I was printing again, I'd print it the other way around. Maybe it would have been OK.
Thoughts?

>>1943903
Bridging =/= overhangs. Try printing it again the other way around. You can't create geometry in thin air but you can build up to it and you can cross gaps.

>>1943907
thanks anon!
yeah, I'm a noob who needs to get some more intuition on this.
>YHT
will follow this next time. a very neat way to remember these rules.
appreciate it.

>>1943799
>>1943819
I usually print a 4-5 layer skirt. It primes the nozzle, it starts cooling off the nozzle so it gets the printer into a mode of maintaining nozzle temps against filament flow, also it is good to see if the second and third lines pull up the preceding lines, also good to see how it is doing on corners.

FYI the best thing I have found for stuff not wanting to stick is lowering acceleration on the first layer down to 50mm/s or so. This keeps the machine from pulling up a weakly adhered line.

>>1943855
I have tried shrouding both fans: >>1940824 >>1940660

>>1943903
>>1943892
>>1943886
Spamanon here. You may even have used the link from my posts. I printed it with the outside down and tree supports. Worked fineish. Sorry for not clarifying that.

>>1943926
Parts fan doesn't seem as loud as the hot end fan. Does that shroud work for the hot end fan??? Would you recommend it?

>>1943929
All fan shrouds (control board and psu too) worked a bit. I'd recommend printing them and seeing how you can tweak them. I don't have a silent board so my gains there are marginal.

>>1943927
Hey, welcome back! Thanks for the links! Yes, that's where I found it.
BTW, Y-axis belt tensioner... how did it work out?

>>1943933
>welcome back!
I never left ;)
>Y-axis belt tensioner... how did it work out?
Used it for the X axis because in the Y axis the belt sat a bit low and to the right and rubbed against the profile. Maybe I should tweak it, maybe I should fuck it and download something else.

>>1943938
>>1942302 s/left/right/

>>1943938
I've printed the cover for x-axis hole. Rubbed against the belt so I took it off. Whoever designed it was way too tight on his tolerances.
I'm printing the LCD back cover now so I don't touch the board with a hand... hour or so left.
I'll try the hot end fan shroud when it's done... anon above is onto something with that.

BTW, how do you print something like this? Which side up?

>>1943916
>FYI the best thing I have found for stuff not wanting to stick is lowering acceleration on the first layer down to 50mm/s or so. This keeps the machine from pulling up a weakly adhered line.
thanks for the tip, anon! appreciated.

>>1943944
Oriented just like that and with supports. And nice digits.

>>1943944
Oh or just the other way around and flipped too. Both should work.

>>1943950
>>1943952
All right, I installed S3D and I'm gonna give it a try with this part. This is what the underside looks like. Thoughts?
I still have 13 min left for the other print....
S3D is fucking nice tho. UI is miles ahead of the Cura IMO.

>>1943968
Sorry, that's the top side. This is the underside with supports. I know fuck-all about supports so this is what the S3D came up with. No idea how to modify it or whether it's needed to modify.

>>1943972
>>1943968
I wager it's gonna be a tad tricky to get the supports out if they're normal supports and not tree supports. Try putting it outside-face down with normal supports.

>>1943968
Also what the wtf fuck is your slicer doing, making the support structures intersect and pass through the piece. Install Cura already.

>>1943976
>I wager it's gonna be a tad tricky to get the supports out if they're normal supports and not tree supports. Try putting it outside-face down with normal supports.
Here's the object upside down. It's actually designed without any flats on the top side so it's hard to orient it on the bed.
>>1943977
I've been using Cura (4.7.1 for Linux) all this time. This is my first try at S3D. This is what the supports look like...

>>1943987
Cura's support looks much worse/dense. And it takes more than 1 hr extra to print.

I'm having for the first time in about 70kg of filament through my machine an issue.
Eryone PLA, the whole roll ran fine, now all of the sudden I keep getting locked up in the tube and the feeder servo tries to turn, then clicks back to position over and over until I pause the print, pull it out, cut, refeed (goes in nice and easy) and resume print. Just did it twice in 45 minutes, and this is an issue because I'm only 80% through a 27 hour print.
>ender 3 pro
>capricorn tube
>metal feed assembly
Guessing this is inconsistencies in filament diameter? Running 210/55 which is what I always run for standard PLA and never have any issues.

>>1943996
Clogged nozzle?
It could be that the tube slipped and is not butted up to the nozzle anymore.
I doubt it's the filament.

>>1944001
make that 3 times now. How would one check nozzle without fucking the print at this stage? I marked my tube with sharpie after last nozzle change (about a roll and a half ago) and it hasn't moved at all.

>>1943996
what does the tip of the tubing look like? if its a bit rough try cutting it back. could also be heatcreep from a fan going out.

>>1944004
That would make sense, the fan on the front has been running fairly slow it seems. Tube was cut dead flat like they recommend. I've had issues before with the tube and nozzle not seating correctly and it usually leaks some molten filament from the nozzle or from the tube fitting, I have none of that right now, and when I retract the filament from the tube by hand it comes out clean like it should.

>>1943988
USE TREE SUPPORTS!

>>1944029
jfc... wtf am I looking at? this is what it looks like from the underside. It looks massively complex.
any way to remove all those little spurious ones?
looks like a massive mess to me.

>>1944043
Yes, it also is stronger, easier to remove, takes less time to print and uses less material than regular supports. It can also reach more recesses than regular supports.
Place down support inhibitor blocks or just leave the small ones, it's not really that important.

Any way to find out if my thermistor is actually giving proper readings?
Maybe heat up the hotend and sprinkle some water on it and see at what temp it no longer boils off?

Been having loads of troubles with stringing recently, any idea what the cause might be and how I could fix it?
Printer is Prusa MK2S, using default PrusaSlic3r settings at 200C°
Tried it with a couple of different PLA's, the red one is PrimaValue, all have been dried for extended periods of time while troubleshooting and have since been contained in airtight containers with dessicant.

>>1944077
I print my PLA at 220C but I only print simple shapes like boxes, drawers and other structural parts where mechanical properties come first and a bit of stringing would not bother me. But even at 220C it does not string.
Check retraction settings and look for nozzle wear.

>turn off printer night before, printed everything flawlessly
>turn it on next day, nothing sticks to the glassbed
>cleaned glass bed with several methods without success
>go back to magnetic e3p bed
>prints basically welded into the mat
i dont know what happened to the glassbed, maybe i should wash it in the kitchen sink instead of wiping it with isoprop. and maybe one day i'll fine-tune my printer, ordered a second leadscrew today and will order a skr 1.4turbo either today or i'll wait till 11.11 sales
>>1944077
try 6mm 25mm/s retractions maybe
>>1944043
maybe try lowering the support density option

>>1944077
What slicer?
I know for sure that Cura puts in a small wipe before going over to the next coloumn. Maybe your gcode is missing them or the option was taken out somehow

>>1944075
The only way is to use a calibrated thermistor

>>1944088
Can you post the stl for this?

>>1944095
its far from done
there are plenty of rc car chassis on thingi, cults etc. tho

>>1944093
PrusaSlicer with default MK2S settings, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layerheight 100mms Linear Advance

>>1944097
Is it your own design? Looks sick

>>1944075
maybe put it in boiling water, that should be accurate within 5K
I bought a multimeter that can measure temperature and stuffed the probe between the silicone sock and the nozzle. Not the most scientific way, the readings are 20K below what the thermistor saya, don't know what to think of that

>>1944088
Hair spray. It works shockingly well.

Is there a setting in cura to slow down the nozzle for just supports? I'm having trouble with tree supports adhering to the bed, and I think it's nozzle speed + the amount of plastic just not being able to get a good hold in time.
Parts of it will stick, and parts will kinda float, and catch the nozzle on the next way around.

I've been looking in cura for a setting but I can't seem to find one

>>1944054
>takes less time to print and uses less material than regular supports
Buddy, look at the numbers. Cura's tree supports take literally 2x as long as S3D.
>>1944088
>maybe try lowering the support density option
Where is that option? I don't see it.

>>1944173
Not that dude but no, fuck these nigger tier bed adhesion solutions.
I had to spend 30 minutes scrubbing the creality glass because someone here recommended me stick glue for adhering ABS.
In the process of removing the glass I also ruined the magnetic pad underneath, cut myself badly and now I'm back to using clips to hold the glass.
It either sticks or it does not. If it does not I go back to the slicer to tune my settings.

>>1944201
Did I recommend glue stick?
Because I'm pretty sure the post of mine you're quoting doesn't mention glue sticks at all.

>>1944201
>>1944203
My glue stick works fine. Cleans off fine too, with a bit of isopropyl acetone and a stanley scraper.

>>1944200
search for "support density" and "support line distance, set the pattern to zig zag, decrease the density and increase the line distance until you're happy with the results
>>1944152
thanks anon, i convert a 1:24 die cast car into a POV-rc, will be a birthday present for a friend

>>1944217
Thanks anon! Here's what I have so far... density: 30% and Line distance: 2mm.
Still looks pretty dense. And more than an hour of the S3D print.

>>1943996
>I'm only 80% through a 27 hour print.
WHOA, what are you printing that's so big, anon?

>>1944203
No, it mentions another nigger tier solution that works but also creates more trouble down the road. Fuck that shit and fuck you as well for suggesting them.

>>1944207
>works on my machine :^)
Fuck off.

>>1944229
>>1944201
glue stick is literally what all the pros use when the adhesion is needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXLroVcw1MQ

>>1944225
those were my presets in cura while in fusion360 the support line/ bridge distance is 8mm and 0.3mm z-bump - works really good in fusion
the rest is probably stuff like printspeed, minimum layer time and number of perimeters. make some more options visible, they'll help you

>>1944231
I like how you post pics without even looking at them.
>3D printing adhesive for PC
That's a world away from consumer grade stick glue that is intended to glue paper.

>>1944238
Thanks anon! I actually bit the bullet and I'm printing the S3D G-code. Never tried it before and wanted to see what S3D prints look like. Also, the print time is only 46min which is 1/2 of any Cura settings I've tried.
I'll post the results when this is finished.... 40min or so left... 7/120 layers done.

>>1944241
it's all the same shit, anon.
https://all3dp.com/2/what-s-the-best-glue-stick-for-3d-printing/
I've been using the cheapest Elmer glue sticks since I got into 3d printing and it always works and it cleans up with acetone or alcohol. I've even used ammonia/windex cleaner. That Magigoo stick is nothing more than watered regular paper glue.

>>1944247
That magigoo shit wipes away with isopropyl. Regular glue does not, in fact it only makes it stickier. Only a scrubbing with dish soap gets that shit off.

>>1944248
Elmer's paper glue can be removed with water and ammonia.

>>1944229
Hair spray works and has caused me no such problems. Provide evidence that it causes issues or admit you don't know what the fuck you're talking about.

>>1944252
>elmer's
I'm not going to import glue from burgerland, anon.

>>1944258
The burden of proof is on you, friend. Provide evidence that hair spray works shockingly well, just as you first claimed.
Ideally no amerifat only brands so others can test it too.

>>1944270
>I'm not going to import glue from burgerland, anon.
they're all made in china. any chinkshit paper glue stick will work.
and clean it with water and ammonia, like I said.

you can also use sugar water as a replacement for a glue stick.

>>1944270
LEL
I've been using the same can of Pantene 4 for something like three years, now, and it's still mostly full. My glass plate has no noticeable damage to it and it cleans easily with a spritz of isopropyl alcohol and a yellow sponge.
It works, it's easy, it's cheap.
People will respect you a lot more if you can swallow your pride and admit when you don't know something.

>>1944270
I've used hairspray on PLA/PLA+ (aquanet on glass; doubt the brand matters.) Pretty well known solution. You're a scrub.

Results of the 1st print with S3D... I'd say it's a success. S3D is quite good IMHO. Definitely worth learning and having in your toolchest.

>>1944314
That surface finish is pretty awful, though. Very goopy.

>>1944315
yeah, the one under the supports. I've removed few of the stings that were left hanging.
But this print took 1/2 of the time that Cura was predicting.

>>1944241
>3D printing adhesive for PC
Is there a Mac version?

>>1944315
This is what you get on support underside surfaces. I printed the same intake bell only right side up with tree supports, even put on an iron finish.

>>1944316
FYI I noticed the new Cura overestimates the printing time by a large margin, a 3h predicted printing time is finished just under 2.5h

>>1944323
Not surprising, Cura has been going to shit lately.
I slice my prints on the bed center but the printer now prints them 2-3cm offset towards 0 in both X and Y.
I want to roll back but I don't know how.

>>1944323
>FYI I noticed the new Cura overestimates the printing time by a large margin, a 3h predicted printing time is finished just under 2.5h
In Cura, I always use that script that estimates time and it's been pretty close.
After using S3D, I'm a huge fan of their UI. It's a lot less distracting and there's no annoying build plate (with a fucking branding/logo) obscuring the view of everything.
I also prefer S3D's view mouse/keyboard UX. In Cura, you have to use a middle mouse button to pan. That's so fucking stupid. Not sure if I could set up Cura so it has the same shortcuts as S3D...

>>1944314
That is just atrocious for an ender to be printing garbage like that.

>>1944334
can you do better? go ahead. it's a 46 min print.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558310

>>1944338
Not that dude but instead of printing that hot garbage you should print a reverse cooling duct.
It's a tad bit quieter than the stock fan and it doesn't blow air on your prints.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531

>>1944314
this looks like shit lmao doesn't matter cura or s3d you have to fix something in your settings

>>1944329
>>1944314
is s3d paying you to shill this thread?

>>1944368
>this looks like shit
Funny how all you faggots never show any of your prints. Not even sliced models in any software package. I'm starting to doubt any of you idiots even have 3D printers. Hit that "Files" button and attach some prints if you want me to take your shitposts seriously.
>>1944370
>is s3d paying you to shill this thread?
It's literally a pirated copy. I must be the worst shill ever.

>>1944243
>all that yellow
quick maths say that most of it is printed 60-75mm/s which is rather quick for a stock ender3,
you'll achieve better results with 50mm/s

>>1944377
>I'm starting to doubt any of you idiots even have 3D printers
From the way you're posting you're either the ABS hater tard or or the fundamentally different coreXY tard.

>>1944385
Thanks anon! That 65% angle makes a lot of difference actually. It reduced the amount of supports considerably. Very nice.
>>1944386
Neither. I'm a noob who started printing 5 days ago. Never even attempted ABS and don't have CoreXY.
Anyway, hit that Files button, faggot. Let's see some shit you've printed.

>>1944338
>it's a 46 min print.
Well there's your problem. This part is supposed to stay on your printer forever, take the time to do it right.

See you in 3 hours.

>>1944390
Here ya go, cunt.

>>1944400
Cooking some drawers rn

>>1944390
the biggest chunk of time was actually disabling the "enable support brim" tick which makes the printer do a full first layer at low speeds, 25mm/s in my case
i wouldnt print it like that except it would be a throwaway prototype, if you want it to look nice print slower and in the orientation of this anon >>1944392
next question would be how much this thing obstructs the airflow, the stock fan is already on its limits cooling-wise, i wouldnt cover it up and risk heatcreep, maybe do some 3h test prints to see if it happens

>>1944392
>See you in 3 hours.
If you print it like that, it takes way longer and uses more material. But the surface finish will be 10x better since the support is only touching the backside.
I printed it "upside down" so it's faster and uses less support. When you print it upright, it needs support even for that dome section. I printed the dome section in the middle without any support. That's also why it looked so rough.
>>1944400
>>1944405
It looks OK but nothing spectacular. Same as mine. Anyway, I also printed this cover for the LCD and it looks good.

>>1944411
Nothing spectacular because I print practical shit with a focus on part durability. I print fast at higher temps with no cooling and a bit of extra flow. Prints don't look very nice but they're as strong as they can be and print in a reasonable amount of time.
The PETG drawer in my second pic is almost 2 hours in, and while it has a bit of stringing and blobs on the inside it seems really sturdy and so far warped less than PLA.

>>1944408
>the biggest chunk of time was actually disabling the "enable support brim" tick which makes the printer do a full first layer at low speeds, 25mm/s in my case
>i wouldnt print it like that except it would be a throwaway prototype, if you want it to look nice print slower and in the orientation of this anon >>1944392
Yep. Fully agreed. But in this case I didn't care since it's on a printer and don't mind the looks. It's black too so it's hard to see detail.
>next question would be how much this thing obstructs the airflow, the stock fan is already on its limits cooling-wise, i wouldnt cover it up and risk heatcreep, maybe do some 3h test prints to see if it happens
I'm printing a Benchy with it on right now. 1:30min+ left. I'll post pics. We'll see if it fucks up prints.
>>1944360
>Not that dude but instead of printing that hot garbage you should print a reverse cooling duct.
>It's a tad bit quieter than the stock fan and it doesn't blow air on your prints.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531
Never seen this one before. Thanks anon. I've been looking at that Petfang thing but it looks so damn complex and it looks like it requires an extra fan or something too. Just don't wanna waste my time with it if it doesn't work well.
Also came across Hero Me 5 thing... have no strong opinion on it either.

>>1944422
The problem with most of these ducts, including Petsfang and Hero me is that they're designed to print PLA in high detail so they don't care if the hotend cooling spills into the build area. The stock ender cooler has the same issue, if you put your hand under the nozzle you can feel the air blowing.
PLA gets better layer adhesion with cooling turned off, but it's never really off on the stock cooler.
This duct will allow you to print PETG and ABS with minimal warping, because those need to be printed with no cooling.

>>1944411
nothing spectacular in my end too, some of the parts have leftover supports and brims on them. I dont care since I'm prototyping, will do quality tuning when my Sir 1.4t arrives
>>1944422
>herome5
I printed that, didn't notice much improvements of prints with the stock hardware, I upgraded to dual 5015 fans later on tho

>>1944427
>This duct will allow you to print PETG and ABS with minimal warping, because those need to be printed with no cooling.
Thanks so much anon. Appreciate the wisdom. I'll print the eB Fan shroud next. This the best way to orient it?
Also, any opinion on 3rd party fans? I see Noctua fans on many hotends but those require 12V and a buck converter. Stock fans seems loud af.

Finally some proper cable management. After three failed prints because wires ripped out I finally had enough.

Last time I was at my local Makerspace, a buddy gave me this fan. It's new, never been used. Is this any good? Is there a point in upgrading Ender3 with it?

Do you just cut the old one and splice the wires or is there another way?

>>1944436
>I printed that, didn't notice much improvements of prints with the stock hardware, I upgraded to dual 5015 fans later on tho
Thanks for the info, anon. Which shroud do you use with 5015 fans?

>>1944437
No, the fan side must face the bed.
Also make sure to make it out of PETG or ABS so it can take the heat. PLA will just melt in the vicinity of the heater block.

>>1944451
either splice in the wires or solder a small connector to it, i did the latter because i tend to take my hotend apart every now and then
>>1944453
the herome5 offers all kinds of cooling ducts for all kinds of fan setups, i think i used the 5015_Lightweight_Duct_Standard_, thats the filename from the zip

>>1944427
>because those need to be printed with no cooling

Yeah PETG with no cooling if you want to come back to a birds nest of stringing and globs of shit hanging off the hotend.

PLA gets better layer adhesion with cooling turned off

PLA warps all to hell and turns to goop with cooling turned off. If you need actual strong parts then you pack them in salt and reheat them in an oven.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyAKtS1b3SQ

>>1944451
just save it until one of the fans die, the hotend fan started rattling in like a month for me but maybe they use better fans now

>>1944462
Thanks anon! I just sliced it and it looks like it will need support for that parts blower end only. Everything else looks clean.

>>1944464
>Yeah PETG with no cooling if you want to come back to a birds nest of stringing and globs of shit hanging off the hotend.
Tune your temps and retraction better and you can cut down on stringing by a lot. For the added strength, having to clear some stringing and globs is a good tradeoff.
>PLA warps all to hell and turns to goop with cooling turned off.
It does warp a bit but it's certainly not turning to goop.
>baking in salt
You're spending 20 minutes prepping, inserting the print, packing and extracting it from the salt to make a good quality print stronger instead of spending 5 minutes with assorted tools to make a strong print look good. Also if you fuck up the salt baking you end up with an unusable part and have to print another.
Not sure about you m8 but my filament doesn't grow on trees.

>>1944451
Ender 3 is 24V, so it is compatible. It is an axial fan though so it is only good for the hotend or cooling the motherboard/stepper drivers

>>1944478
Orient it the hotend fan face down

OK, I'm back and my Benchy has finished printing. I used the silencing shround on the hot end fan from above.
I used a flashlight when I took this pic to show imperfections. The bow is the worst part. It's just not smooth. Rest of it looks more or less OK.
All sliced with Cura and CHEP Good 0.2 profile. PLA plastic.
Any suggestions how to fix it or what's wrong?
>>1944498
>Orient it the hotend fan face down
Yep, that's how it's oriented. That screenshot is from the bottom of the plate looking up.

the Anycubic Chiron is better than the Creality CR-10
fight me.

>>1944508
>t. Anycubic Chiron owner

>>1944314
>can you do better?
Not sure what this is supposed to do except kill your fan and heater that much faster, but here you go.

>>1944514
All supports removed without any artifacts.

>>1944515
And a shot of my ender flexing.

>>1944516
>flexing
>posts tarded up cooling setup
Top kek
Come back when you can print something that's not PLA.

>>1944516
I can't tell if this is genius or straight up retarded.

>>1944516
Those axial part cooling fans don't do jack shit, I hope you know that
Already low CFM fans coupled with extremely limiting air ducts

>>1944514
It is an intake bell. It's design doesn't limit the airflow significantly but reduces noise very effectively

>>1944505
Still a bit goopy. What nozzle temp is it?

>>1944518
>Come back when you can print something that's not PLA.
>>1944520
>I can't tell if this is genius or straight up retarded.
Please explain anons. From what I gather, to print PETG/ABS you don't actually need any parts cooling. So a parts fan is off most of the time, right? So what's wrong with his setup?

>>1944534
>Still a bit goopy.
Yep :(
>What nozzle temp is it?
200 nozzle, 50 for bed.
Rest of it looks decent... only the bow part has some blobs and is not smooth to the touch.
No idea what to improve...

>>1944377
>Hit that "Files" button and attach some prints if you want me to take your shitposts seriously.

Most of my prints are prototypes for products I'm developing, so...
Have a test print picture, I guess?

>>1944537
I'd try dropping it a couple degrees.

>>1944522
>Those axial part cooling fans don't do jack shit
On retarded designs that aren't engineered properly. This is my own design and I assure you at 100% fan speed these two guys can kill my heater cart.

>Already low CFM fans coupled with extremely limiting air ducts
They're high CFM low pressure fans. Your head is full of meme knowledge and no actual understanding. The vanes straighten out the turbulent flow and increase the pressure.

https://youtu.be/SX-okOHvh1Q?t=1372

>>1944535
You just know he prints PLA, and not even very strong one at that. The fans on the sides are layer cooling fans. You need such a cooling setup if you want to do nice looking bridges and overhangs with PLA.
PETG and ABS do not like part cooling so if he was printing something like that as well he wouldn't have that shitshow strapped to his hotend.
The truth is that you can print good overhangs and bridges with the stock layer cooing fan of the E3 provided you add a decent nozzle to it, the stock one is hands down retarded.

Anyone got any links to a good magnetic bed for a wanhao i3 plus? I have a glass bed on mine but bought a second and want to try magnet/spring steel and don’t know what products r good and not :3
Here is my old printer and new one :p

>>1944544
>You just know he prints PLA
Guess again soiboi. PETG in orange, PLA in blue, I've also got some TPU parts lying around.
>PETG and ABS do not like part cooling
PETG is absolute shit without part cooling.

I'm starting to think you guys are like the people who don't actually own guns but still spend their time arguing about the stats of different cartridges on gun forums.

>>1944549
The layers on the PLA one look bad. Not enough contrast to assess the PETG one.
>PETG is absolute shit with part cooling
Fixed for you. PETG has shit layer adhesion when printed with cooling.
>inb4 muh bird nest stringing and blobs
I tune my settings so that shit keeps to the inside of the print where the infill goes. It still strings and makes blobs but they get trapped inside so I don't have to deal with most of them. Also I don't care because I don't print artsy shit. I just want to cash in on that extra layer adhesion.

>I'm starting to think you guys are like the people who don't actually own guns but still spend their time arguing about the stats of different cartridges on gun forums.
And I'm starting to think you're a coomer brained tard that prints models of anime girls and onahole molds.

>>1944549
Those are some splendid structural engineering parts, senpai

>>1944557
>PETG has shit layer adhesion when printed with cooling
I concur, first tries with PETG was practically falling apart layer by layer

On my photon I barely have enough room to print this fairly large part that needs to be dimensionally perfect. It has a few islands on that cannot be changed and the islands print fine, but they are all warped a bit and no longer snap into their other half. The print takes 14 hours and this is my second fail. What should I do to give it the best shot. Used 80% support and heavy which warped. Maybe a better resin? Or should I cure longer?

>>1944516
hey anon, what hotend setup is this? got a link? looks fucking rad.

>>1944557
>The layers on the PLA one look bad
0.2mm Layer height on very subtle countoured surfaces, I really really really doubt your printer could do better at that layer height.

>And I'm starting to think you're a coomer brained tard that prints models of anime girls and onahole molds

Everything I print is functional and actually works. You guys are no print faggots so far.

>>1944247
>it's all the same shit, anon.
Different kinds of Magigoo are NOT the same thing as the cheapest Elmer's glue sticks you can find

https://wish.link/2TPixBk
Will this thing work as I hope - writing to the sdcard from Windows triggers sdcard removed/inserted events in Marlin?

>>1944585
>Different kinds of Magigoo are NOT the same thing as the cheapest Elmer's glue sticks you can find
Yes they are. All these adhesive pens for 3D printing are just diluted PVA. You can make your own. Just look at the safety sheet of these products. Magigoo is a product of some arab company that just rebrands a chinese PVA glue. Another one is Dimafix. They're all a scam since they sell you $0.25 worth of PVA for $20. Only suckers buy this shit.

>>1944537
is it only on the curved parts? Try increasing maximum deviation and tolerances, the 8bit board might be overloaded with the speeds you're printing at.
>>1944543
did you design the entire thing in blender or what is that program? If its blender, how annoying was it to get the dimensions straight?
>>1944549
did you finally reveal what those things are?

>>1944579
You are definitely full of yourself, kid. Are you the idiot who said the Ender 5 is coreXY? Your arrogance and attitude seem similar.

>>1944626
>They're all a scam since they sell you $0.25 worth of PVA for $20.

I wish I could sue these people for the $4 I spent on this shit before I realized it was just water soluble PVA glue. This level of blatant lies in marketing should be illegal.

>>1944634
>how annoying was it to get the dimensions straight?
It's blender and it wasn't that bad because I imported reference STL files of the ender 3 hotend and the herome fan duct that it's based off of.

>did you finally reveal what those things are?
They're impressions of my feet in clay that I 3D scanned and turned into insoles for shoes that don't fit right. Otherwise known as orthotics if you get them from a doctor for $500.

>>1944641
Still a no print faggot. And a seething one too, kid.

Argue more about printer specs and ideal filament settings while the men actually print.

Remind me why it's a bad idea to overexpose SLA layers? Wouldn't that just make it so I have to post-cure it less, if I'm using an opaque resin? I get there'd probably be loss of detail with a translucent one.

>>1944644
This explains everything, thank you

>>1944641
No, but you're the idiot with the muh totally different coreXY and probably the idiot that hates ABS as well.

>>1943605
>>1943609
Found a different small usb stick. Got a working print again. Now I just have to hope this one doesn't randomly fail, or stock up on cheap usb sticks.

>>1944648
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GL-9Ia0SibQ
This video shows well enough what happens.

>>1942739
>>1942743
One roll was mostly used, and exposed for 2 years. The other was a pristine roll still vac sealed in packaging.

>>1944736
Packaging, at least normal foil and especially heatshrink packaging is never tight seal, it will allow moisture inside, and most filaments are hygroscopic to a degree so they act as a magnet. Vacuum bags are more dense and can be sealed better but still not a total safeguard since moisture can seep through the huge gaps between the molecules in plastic. The best way either in its box and sealed or opened is to put them in a sealed box with a stronger moisture magnet aka bag of dessiccant, and regularly check the bag and recharge/purge the contained moisture.

How the fuck do I take apart the Y-axis motor and end switch on an Ender 3 V2? I have it loose, but there is a plastic housing that I can't take off.

>>1944508
the Creality CR-10 is better than the Anycubic Chiron
fight me.

I've compiled and uploaded TH3D firmware to my Ender but it's really plain looking. Not even an info screen. What are some of the features that I should enable?

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>>1944892