/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>can`t use linear advance with creality 4.2.2 board

Fug

>>1938051
what's the difference between various 'silent' stepper drivers? I see a lot of talk about TMC2130, TMC2100, TMC2208, TMC2209 etc. What's the difference between them? Can you use any of them? Why are some more than double the price (TMC2130)? Can someone please shed some light on this? Thanks.

>>1938227
Here is a comparison form some german shop
https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/comparison/

>>1938258
thanks anon. but I still don't get what all those options mean.
coolStep, stallGuard, dcStep... these seem to be in the most expensive drivers. any idea how useful that stuff is?

>>1938269
Most people just use it just as a silent drop-in replacement driver,
The proprietary modes are explained in the datasheets, and partly on the website:
https://www.trinamic.com/technology/motor-control-technology/stallguard-and-coolstep/
https://www.trinamic.com/products/integrated-circuits/details/tmc2209-la/

Do you want to know something in particular?

How can I convince my Ender 3 to G29 while the bed is heating?
Every time I start a print it waits until temps are reached and then it does the G28 and G29. I'd like to have them done as the bed is heating and then wait for the target temps.

>>1938276
>I'd like to have them done as the bed is heating

No point, the heating warps the bed so much that any leveling done before will be crap.

>>1938293
I haven't had that issue, but I also use a nice thick glass plate.

>>1938304
Tempered glass or borosilicate glass?
With the latter the thermal expansion might be low, but like the other anon said, I would still refrain from leveling a cold bed.

>>1938317
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07H3R8SW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>1938051
Someone talk me out of this real fast, im going to bed in 2 hours and ill order this shit if nobody talks me out of it

>>1938317
>dude just touch 110C buildplate with the BLtouch 25 times everytime you print, what's the worst that can happen
Guess how I know you're a PLAeb.

>>1938340
Talk you out of what exactly?

Is it a combo deal for an ender 3 and a k40?

I wouldn't do it without knowing exactly what the 'k40' unit is. There's alot of fuckery when it comes to these lasers, you can get a knockoff tube that dies really quickly, the controller can be a massive pain in the ass. One type has a rotating knob, the other has buttons, one of them is a huge pain in the ass to use, I don't remember which. A 40W laser is really weak and isn't useful for much, what is it that you need to make out of flat sheets of shit?

The ender 3 has multiple versions now and you could be getting an older one when the new ones are much better. I know that magnetic bed isn't that great and was one of the older ones.

>>1938340
I have been thinking of buying the Creality Ender-3 V2 this week. The only issue I see is that in the comment on Amazon they mention how often the printer comes damaged and how difficult it is to contact any tech support.

>>1938354

>Is it a combo deal for an ender 3 and a k40?
No, different vendors, but ive done some micro processor projects lately and been bemoaning that I never find the perfect enclosure or brackets, or other misc items that a 3d printer would be good for. I also want to make my own flight simpit and I definitly need to practice build techniques before I go model everything in CAD

>I wouldn't do it without knowing exactly what the 'k40' unit is.
I've been watching videos, it's an unsafe piece of shit if you dont know what you are doing so I know im in for a bit of upgrades

>The ender 3 has multiple versions now and you could be getting an older one when the new ones are much better
Right, that I didnt know so I'll spend some time finding the right version. Still pretty sure its an ender 3 pro im going for considering its price, size and how well known it is

>>1938362
I've been looking at Ender 3 Pro vs. v2. The latter seems like a straight upgrade at the moment

Anyone has experience with printing sieves?

Would it be possible to make sieves to fraction particles in the range of 6.6-7.2mm into fractions of .2mm or so?

>>1938379
>Would it be possible to make sieves to fraction particles in the range of 6.6-7.2mm
Maybe
>into fractions of .2mm or so
Maybe with some postprocessing

>>1938340
Not sure what that other thing is but the Ender 3 Pro is a good choice.
The only thing to keep in mind is that all those claims of power cut recoveries are complete bullshit. Depending on where you live you might want to get some backup power.

>>1938393
>Depending on where you live you might want to get some backup power
I have not experienced a single unscheduled power outage in the past 10 years living at my current location, it's not a big concern of mine (I did experience it before upgrading the wires and fuses in my house tough)

Why did this happen? I think I'm too dumb for a printer. Ender 3 v2 btw

>>1938422
There's a little hole that the filament has to get into. The lever on the side of the subassembly moves the roller out of the way.
It's oftentimes easier to remove the bowden tube, shove the filament through the hole and then slide the bowden tube onto it.

>>1938424
I got that, my print was going fine for about an hour. I guess it jammed in the hotend somehow, and instead of the extruder failing to push the filament, it kept going and all my filament got forced out the side.
Why'd this happen though? I didn't think the filament could slip off the wheel. How can I stop it from happening again?

>>1938431
How aggressive an angle is the filament coming in? I've had some PLA snap because the radius was too small. If that happens between the roller and the bowden tube, then it could end up being wound around the roller.

>>1938340
And its ordered. Also fuck you Amazon, who says Norway isnt a real country? At least the chinaman will ship shit my way, I tried paying you a premium but you are too good for my oil cash I guess

>>1938432
I don't think the angle is aggressive? I didn't put the spool anywhere weird.
I stuck a needle up the nozzle but there doesn't seem to be anything stuck in there. Google's failing me, I'm not sure what even went wrong.

>>1938442
I use one of these to help prevent snapping:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015832

Anycubic Chiron or CR-10 v3.anyone have a strong opinion one way or the other?

>>1938442
>>1938422
Do the hotend fix first

I need help with an Ender 3 printer
which Ender 3 version is worth buying?
>situation
I live in a third country and 3d printing some parts might be helpful but Imlimited on time since next year I will be 80% poorer
>tl;dr
so which of the following should I buy?
which other option would you recommend?

>>1938500
You might want to get some replacement parts, too. Especially belts, rollers and nozzles.

>>1938508
Il think about
so is the printer any worth? should I try to pay more for a crane bridge model?

>>1938539
I enjoy mine (Pro).

>>1938440
how much did you spend?

A friend of mine is shopping around for his first 3D printer. It's been a while since I looked into them and my machines still work, so I'm pretty behind on the latest and greatest. What's your guys' opinion on these two? I can't help but feel for a first printer, dual-extrusion and 3-colour printing is a bit advanced. I've also never heard of HICTOP, but I've seen Geeetech thrown around a few times. Any particular thoughts on these?

>>1938567
>I can't help but feel for a first printer, dual-extrusion and 3-colour printing is a bit advanced.
No shit. It's hard to get decent single-filament prints let alone 2. Your friend will spend days fucking around with settings to get it working.
>I've also never heard of HICTOP, but I've seen Geeetech thrown around a few times. Any particular thoughts on these?
They're all the same shit coming from same factories. Clones of a clone. If the reviews are decent, dont worry about it.
Your friend shout get Geeetech A10 or Ender 3 to start.

>>1938442
>>1938422
The issue is that there is a portion of the filament that is unsupported between the start of the bowden tube and your feed gear, if filament is not rigid enough it might find the path of least resistance to not be through the bowden and into the nozzle but to the side through this unsupported section.

>>1938567
>dual-extrusion and 3-colour printing
Multi filament printing looks like a shit experience from what I gather. The end result may look good, but the process has a ton of waste and every issue related to 1 extruder is multiplied by that much.

The massive block on the right in the image is the waste produced from parking the hot extruders until the print calls for that color.

>>1938616
Oh wow, looks like a good way to quintuple your filament spending

>>1938631
>>1938616
Don't mislead, most of that block is hollow unless you're doing filament changes like that on every single layer

>>1938557
Also bought 3 spools of PLA, ABS and PETG as a starter + a ton of micro electronics while I was at it

>>1938639
Either way I think it's a mostly useless gimmick. Only use I can see is for printing different materials in a single model, which I don't think most people have a use for.

>>1938646
Why not the Ender 3 V2?

Do you guys know of any fan ducts that keep the hotend fan from blowing air on the print on an Ender 3?
Trying to print some ABS right now and it curls like a motherfucker because the hotend fan is blowing air on it.

>>1938651
Turn the fan off. Your slicer should have an option to control the fan.

>>1938652
The hotend fan is on and 100% at all times. Only the part cooling fan can be controlled from the slicer, which is already off.
Also I doubt that turning off the hotend fan would be a good idea.

Where does one buy quality (or at least reliable) 24V radial fans? Is aliexpress the only way to get decent brands like sunon? All the ones on amazon appear to be 12V with a 24V sticker slapped on them, and they last for 2 weeks at best or downright fry as soon as you plug them in.

>>1938651
The hotend fan on an ender3 is wired directly to a 24V power rail on the motherboard so there is no way of slowing it down. Also as >>1938653 said if you slow it down you will clog the hotend in no time. You can try turning it inside out so the airflow is reversed but the hotend will still be cooled?

>>1938651
Found it > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531
It's meant to work with the hotend fan sucking air out instead of blowing it in, should work for your needs.

>>1938668
>quality
>some no name chink shit fan made by chinese kids on the cargo ship
Buy noctua you cheap bastard.
>inb4 no noctua blower fans
Blower fans are shit and noctua knows this.

>>1938668
I bought mine from TH3D but there might be a queue on deliveries

>>1938683
this is bait

>>1938685
Ok bro, enjoy your loud as fuck chinkturd fans.

>>1938668
i bought a sunon 5015, 5020 and cheap chinese ones for 3€ from ali, from what i noticed the work pretty much the same
they even produce the same high pitched noise when fixed to a duct like a herome5. that said they are just as silent when you drive them with a bit lower voltage, on par with my noctua axial fan
>12V with a 24V sticker slapped on them
the sunon 5015 died that way, accidentally sent 24V to the 12V rated fan and the made a plopp immediately
>>1938651
you can try and block the bottom opening that lets the air through
did you rule out all the other possible problems like bed too cold and enclosure nice and cozy?
>>1938683
are (you) okay

>>1938691
>>1938683
Agreed, this is bait.

>>1938683
>cheap
Sunon fans are like $10 each

>>1938696
>did you rule out all the other possible problems like bed too cold and enclosure nice and cozy?
The bed is at 110C. That should be enough since the first layer adheres fairly well.
>enclosure
No enclosure here. I have to make do without.

>>1938702
Not that retard but what makes Sunon fans so well percieved?
When it comes to obscure fan sizes and voltages I know Delta has a very good selection.

>>1938648
not him but why is it worth over v1?

>>1938770
Silent drivers, 32bit, better screen unit, better hotend assembly, horizontal PSU below the bed

Does anyone have the link to the guys blog who was making the HL2 pulse rifle? Haven't followed the threads for a bit so I wanna look up how he's been progressing.

>>1938771
>Silent drivers
he actually bought pro with v4.2.7 board that has silent drivers
>32bit
same as above. On top of that, stock ender 3 and ender 3 pros now come with 32bit 4.2.2 motherboard (even tho they still do not come with silent TMC drivers).
>better screen unit
I personally like the classic 12864 lcd screen better than the new one. This new LCD screen is powered by closed-source firmware and cannot be customized as easily.
>better hotend assembly
not true, it comes with the same exact hotend setup as the previous enders. Only the casing around it is different. Though some claim the part cooling is improved.
>horizontal PSU below the bed
it makes for a cleaner look but that's it. It is actually louder since the psu fan is on all the time. That's not the case for ender 3 pro.

>>1938822
Are there any benefits to the v2 over Pro at all then?

>>1938835
I personally sold v2 to a friend and got a second ender 3 pro. I don't see any reason to go for v2 unless you care for the included drawer or belt tensioners.

Anyone have experience with these other types of wheels? Polycarbonate, nylon coated, etc.?

>>1938842
Either the wheel wears out or the aluminium groove. I'd rather replace the stock rollers more often than having to deal with replacing the gantries just once.

>>1938843
Thanks. I didn't really think these would cause wear on the aluminum but I guess they are hard enough to wedge the grooves out of shape.

>>1938835
some ender3pros like >>1938646 still ship with the 8bit board due to old stock, the 32bit board is a ~25€ upgrade over the 8bit. if you take the ender3p make sure its bundled with a glass plate, the v2 has that stock.
I don't care for the display since I'm controlling my e3p via pronterface

>>1938846
>make sure its bundled with a glass plate
The magnetic bed is vastly superior

>>1938869
It's always a tradeoff.
FWIW, the magnetic bed on my Ender 3 Pro started losing its magnetism over time, causing it to lift up, warping the bottom of prints.
Glass bed has been way better for accuracy, but is a bit of a PITA to get parts off and is both slower to heat up and move along the Y axis.

>>1938869
you get both with the e3p when its bundled with the glass plate

>>1938051
Is there a reason to go for a FDM printer over a Resin printer anymore?

>>1938910
It's a hell of a lot cleaner. Resin is goopy and gross.
You also have a much better variety of materials.

>>1938911
Also non translucent resins don't cure fully and remain in a half solid state in core

>>1938910
i dont know if i can print nylon in resin or make structural parts like brackets from resin
in other news
>notice steppers get really toasty
>dont care for the longest time
>how that i want to put my e3p into an enclosure i measure the vref
>1.2V instead of 0.78-ish volt
>corrected it, steppers get handwarm now
check your vref anons

>>1938910
>Is there a reason to go for a FDM printer over a Resin printer anymore?
Cost = resisn are more expensive per gram of print
Smell = resins have a bad smell and are toxic. You need a well-ventilated area to use one. Best setups have them fully enclosed in a "fume hood".
Dirty = you'll need a lot of gloves and shop towels to handle uncured prints.
Post-processing is a pain = you'll need UV light setup and Isopropanol bath setup (that adds more to the cost and smell too). And you'll need an ultrasonic cleaner too.
Not as strong = resins are simply not as strong as some filaments... yet.

But the prints are a lot smoother and have a much higher resolution. If I was into making little figurines, I'd definitely ditch my FDM printers and buy a resin one. But most of the shit I print is large so it doesn't matter to me. Also, you can print in clear/transparent resins... something that's not quite possible with FDM.

Tell me about different types of filaments /3dpg/... how do you choose one over the other? What are your rules of thumb when going PETG or ABS, for example? I assume PLA is the default for most stuff...

>>1938977
Check out CNC Kitchen on youtube. Stefan has done really deep dives into a whole bunch of materials under a variety of different applications.

>>1938977
PLA is default, ABS for when I want shitty warped prints, PETG when I want strong(-er) than PLA with a bit more toughness. I outsource carbon-filled nylon when the demands are really high.

>>1938979
I came across his channel few times. Lots of good info. I'll do his dampening mod.
>>1938980
>ABS for when I want shitty warped prints
I think you need a better cooling for the nozzle and a heated bed and maybe an enclosure to print ABS. Never done it myself but that's what I read.

>>1938987
Only amateurs don't have heated beds and enclosures at this point. If I'm going to bother with a hotend that has the capacity to reliably print at ABS temperaturs (with proper material heating!), with a heated enclosure, all that jazz - why not print CF nylon at that point? I've done plenty of ABS printing two-three years ago, PETG is superior in most material applications and is vastly easier to print with.

>>1938051
How do you edit an STL file? I'm about to print some feet for my printer and I've read in comments on Thingiverse that the print is 'too tight' and doesn't snap well into extrusions. Commenters suggested to make the thing that goes into the rail a bit smaller. How the fuck do you do that? I only have the STL...

>>1938977
i use pla for throwaway prototypes, decoration/ figurines and low demanding stuff
petg is my favorite so far, using it for everything better
tpu for elastic stuff obviously
>>1938999
either you load the stl into f360, convert it into a solid and change it there or try horizontal expansion -0.5 or even lower

>>1938999
Looks like a simple enough part to redo yourself

>>1939004
>either you load the stl into f360, convert it into a solid and change it there or try horizontal expansion -0.5 or even lower
I don't have F360 account unfortunately.
>>1939006
>Looks like a simple enough part to redo yourself
I don't have the dimensions.

Once commenter said this:

>they go in very hard, the tolerance are tight, if u can before printing remove a layer or 2 from the flat side touching the bars, otherwise u may have some problems trying to fit them.
How do you do this in Cura?
Also, pic related.

>>1939009
>I don't have the dimensions.
No, but you have the dimensions for the thing it attaches to, don't you?

>>1939009
>I don't have the dimensions.
>>1939010
>No, but you have the dimensions for the thing it attaches to, don't you?
This desu anon, there's a reason why loads of people into 3d-printing have calipers. Try getting your hands on a vernier caliper, even a cheap analogue one without a digital dial. Also v-profiles are bog-standard.

>>1939009
the horizontal expansion setting is in cura, if you have some filament to spare just try it out
since in this case the very bottom is the problem you can push the model a bit through the building plate in the slicer, it cuts off everything underneath, easy way to crop it

>>1939010
>>1939012
I've ordered calipers like a week ago from chang. they're suppose to arrive in a week or two. I'm new to 3d printing and this is literally the first thing I ordered (along with a nice metal scale/ruler).
>>1939014
Thanks anon! So... add some "negative" expansion in Cura? Is it possible to apply it to only a certain number of layers? don't want to apply it to where the balls go.

This is a set of feet for Ender3 that uses sqush balls. I read it's the best way to dampen the printer and reduce the noise.

>>1939017
>I've ordered calipers like a week ago from chang. they're suppose to arrive in a week or two
Just walk down to your affordable ironmonger
https://youtu.be/3WQKhtBQKGQ

>>1939017
you can try to cancel it out by using positive hole expansion but from the comments i read that you need to crop a bit of the underside
also squash balls are squishy, they'll fit i guess
i took the concrete-tile+foam route, cheap and solid

>>1939032
>you can try to cancel it out by using positive hole expansion but from the comments i read that you need to crop a bit of the underside
That's an interesting idea. I might give that a try. I'll print one foot first and see how it works.
>also squash balls are squishy, they'll fit i guess
>i took the concrete-tile+foam route, cheap and solid
That's way too heavy/complicated/bulky for me. I have silent drivers so the motion isn't as jerky as regular stepper drivers. If I didn't have the silent board for Ender, I'd probably go that route too.

>>1939017
Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion. Mine is always set to -0.2, no matter how much the normal horizontal expansion. Less elephant foot.
Also Initial layer flow 95% where the normal flow is 100%

>>1938987
>better cooling for the nozzle
I think you mean no cooling. ABS needs to cool down real slow to prevent warping.

>>1939043
Why are you people using ABS? There is ASA, practically the same as ABS but with much less warping, less sensitive to cooling/heating and has no bad odor and outgassing.

>>1939042
>Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion. Mine is always set to -0.2
>Less elephant foot
Not him but thanks!

>>1939046
>Why are you people using ABS?
Because more specialized filaments are a pain to source here. I can get my hands on PLA, PETG and ABS fairly easily, anything else would need to be imported and after shipping and taxes would end up costing me double the cost of any of the 3.
I'd rather learn to print ABS reliably than to learn to print ASA reliably and pay out the ass to get my filament here.

>>1939042
Fantastic info! Thanks.

Is it worth it to wait for black friday to finally get a printer? I don't want to buy some shit that might be half off if I just wait a month.

Anyone using a mains voltage powered bed? How did you make it safe?

>>1939116
Not me, but a first huge step is to make sure you have a real fucking good ground connection

>>1939118
>>1939116
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5765/mains-powered-heatbed-safety
>make sure that any exposed metal surfaces of your printer are properly grounded
>NEVER fuse the return side, since a fault or blown fuse here will leave everything live and floating

>>1939119
Would a GFCI adapter help?

>>1939120
It would help, but you should make 100% sure its ground works

>>1939133
Would a 400W 24V bed or mains 120V bed be safer? For both a corexy and a cartesian. I was worried about the stress of bending a thick gauge wire since it would need about 17A

>>1938051
I just picked this up from Marketplace... some lady was selling it. Belonged to her son (didn't ask the circumstances).
It says it's "Ender 3" but I've looked at the Creality site and Ender 3 doesn't come with this glass bed.
It looks very clean and the glass bed is near spotless. Not much dust/wear on rollers. I did find some plastic fillament on the end of the nozzle.

What is this thing? Anything in particular I should do before I turn it on?

>>1939193
That glass bed is a common accessory. I have the same one.
Make sure the power supply is set to the correct voltage before plugging it in.
I'd be wary of trusting the assembly of a printer by some random dude, so double check that everything is aligned properly, if not tear it down and build it back up just to be sure.

>>1939193
That's a pretty find anon, congrats

>>1939200
>Make sure the power supply is set to the correct voltage before plugging it in.
Thanks anon. It's set to 115V. Everything on it looks solid and nothing wiggles.
Curiosity got the better of me and I opened the part where the electronics are. Here's a pic. At a first glance, can you tell me if this is stock? Wired correctly?

It's too late to buy filament anywhere locally so I'll just order a roll online. Can I turn it on without filament?
>>1939203
Thanks anon! I'm glad I found it. Been looking for one for a month.

>>1939216
and this is the nozzle.... anything wrong with it? standard Ender nozzle?

>>1939218
The accessories box came with side cutters, wrenches of diff kinds, spatula and this... looks like an extra plate, some nozzles and some yellow springs. Wtf is that all about? Are these yellow springs suppose to go somewhere? I don't see where...
Thanks for any help/tips, anons!

>>1939225
oh yeah... and that black rubber hose. wtf is that about?

>>1939225
That's the magnetic build plate. Looks really lightly used, too.
How much did you pay for it?

>>1939218
>>1939216
>>1939193
Everything looks bog standard, even the glass bed, there was one variant of the Ender 3 that came with the glass bed. Get Capricorn tubing, do the hotend fix, get the yellow bed springs, look up how to fix/firm up the Y gantry. Maybe get a dual geared extruder and look up Hero Me hotend shroud.
And have a lot of fun :)

>>1939232
$150

>>1939234
Assuming it's all in working order, that's a good find.

>>1939229
The hose is the protecting sheath for the z-screw in case you disassemble it

>>1939225
The springs go below the bed. Probably those are recplacement springs and you already have a set of springs installed. Pic under the bed?
>>1939218
Looks standard to me
>>1939216
>At a first glance, can you tell me if this is stock? Wired correctly?
Can't tell without the labels; make sure the yellow tags have the same letters as the silkscreen on the board and as the motor labels. But one must be actively trying in order to get it wrong, so don't expect surprises.

>>1939225
The yellow springs are a replacement for the stock bed springs, it is strongly recommended to replace the stock ones.

>>1939216
>>1939233
>bog standard

hmm... isn't that a silent board?

>>1939242
>v1.1.5
I missed that part. Looks like the previous owner knew what he was doing, it looks like a nice package

>>1938918
>Also non translucent resins don't cure fully and remain in a half solid state in core
What. Are you implying parts that aren't hollow have a semi-liquid core? That's absolutely false.

>>1939269
I mean during printing you don't get the proper exposure to cure the resin, that is why you have a curing UV box. If the resin is solid color, non see-through it will only process the outermost layer and leaves the core without proper curing.
And yes, the core is not going to be solid, it will be softer and some chemicals will leak through to the surface or by outgassing.
Resin is nasty.

>>1939273
>during printing you don't get the proper exposure to cure the resin
...Which is why you dial in your exposure settings to properly expose it during printing. The reason you dunk it in IPA and UV cure it afterwards is to get the stuff that's *on the surface* off.

*some* resins can't/shouldn't be fully cured at the time of printing because of material concerns but that's too specific to make a broad blanket statement like "opaque resin will not be completely solid in the center". If that were the case, you'd have opaque parts weeping over time, which... that's just shit resin, if it does that.

>>1939269
>What. Are you implying parts that aren't hollow have a semi-liquid core? That's absolutely false.
That's actually absolutely true. Liquid resin always gets traps inside hollows and the first thing you learn when printing on resin printers is to make some holes inside of your print so that you can save on resin and actually have prints that don't leak out resin over time.

Some dude on YT made a small "LED on a wire" gizmo to shine light into holes of his prints.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNuPTZzlzn8

If you don't have holes, your print will leak out a toxic goo over time.

>>1939287
>Liquid resin always gets traps inside hollows
I'm not talking about sealed voids in prints, I'm talking about solid printed objects, different situation

>>1939289
>I'm talking about solid printed objects, different situation
No one prints 100% solid objects with resin printers.

>>1939287
Kinda reminds me of plating.
I've done a lot of work where we'd cut/bend/weld and then plate steel tubes, and you need to put holes to allow drainage, and it was a big juggling act to hide them, with the assembly being upside-down in the tank or whatever.

Can anybody with a Wanhao i3 duplicator or similar printer tell me what is supposed to make contact with the Y axis limit switch/end stop switch? My printer doesn't hit the switch and just slips the belt when homing on the Y axis.

>>1939312
Disregard this, I had a wire jammed up in my shit.

>>1938696
>are (you) okay
Thank you for asking. I am feeling mildly sleepy and moderately inspired.

>>1939326
>I had a wire jammed up in my shit.
>>1939382

>>1939382
If it makes you feel better, on a previous build I neglected to connect a wire and so my Z axis would go up but never down. Took me a good 45 minutes of screaming internally before I noticed.

has anyone tried adding these things to their steppers?

>>1939409
Did you have a wire jammed up your shit too?

How do I 3d print the most realistic poop?

>>1939453
What do they do?

is 3d printed material an appropriate material to use as a fiber mold?
would prepreg vs separate resin+sheets see more of a difference than prepreg vs separate normally has?
I'm assuming that if I can cure resin in an oven at a lower temperature than the plastic mold's melt temperature, it'll be ok?

>>1939466
3d photogrammetry to make the model

>>1939453
Looks grippy

>>1939471
Yes. 3D orubted jigs, vacuum former/casting molds are good for short production runs.

>>1939475
thanks

>>1939475
printed*

>>1939470
Vibration dampers. I've never, because they look like something to add more ghosting to your print.

>>1938910
price is a big factor and size. I print a lot of D&D minis and for deil on such small things resin is the way to go. however, for things like terrain, scenery, props, and such FDM is the way to go. you sacrifice detail for shear volume, cheapness, and scale. frankly the ideal is using both technologies. say you want to print a prop gun, FDM for the main body and resin for the fine details will give you the best results

>>1939453
i think those are dampers meant to mechanically smooth your stepper motions, but if you have silent steppers they bascially have this built in as a feature of signal processing so you don't need both

i finally bit the bullet and have spent the past few days playing around with freecad. i can't bring myself to reinstall windows for fusion 360 and after using openscad for an afternoon i think this is the only way forward for me to continue to design stuff. I've been using blender but working with dimensions in there is such a pain and there is zero way to constrain parameters, which has been killing me when i actually print things later and they don't fit. freecad isn't actually so bad once you get used to the hang of it, it's definitely weird to make 100 sketches though for something that I would normally only make in like 1-2 and do a ton of extrusions on. anyone else here recently get into it?

All right, I'm completely fucking confused. I just added a glass bed to my Ender 3 Pro and I'm trying to adjust the Z limit switch. Since glass bed is thicker than the regular plate, I have to adjust the Z limit switch. And this is where I get confused. I'm not sure if I'm doing it right but this is what I did:

1) I compressed the springs to as low as they can go.
2) Moved the print head slowly so the nozzle is about 1mm above the bed (front left corner is where I did my adjustment)
3) Unscrewed the Z-limit switch and moved it up so it just clicks.

I was then planning on loosening the 4 bed springs until I can slide the paper under it. BUT, I've noticed that I ran out of z-height on the right side of the plate as I moved the print head! Right side was way higher. It confused the fuck out of me but after looking at it, I've noticed that the screws that hold the rollers to the plate have star washers on the right side of the plate. But not on the left. This is the reason for height difference.

What's going on here? I'm pretty sure I never fucked it with ti before.. Why are washers on one side and not on another? I'm guessing I can "fix" this by adjusting everything on the right side then unscrewing more on left... Anyway, HELP!

>>1939501
anon, I did the same thing about a year ago. thank god I didn't fall for fucking F360 meme. I remembered what they did to 123D and how many people they fucked so I didn't bother with F360. Whoever fell for F360 is a fucking idiot and I don't feel sorry for them because they didn't learn from mistakes of others.
FreeCAD is fucking amazing and can't recommend it highly enough. There's a guy on YT that goes by JOKO Engineering and he's a professional engineer and he has a ton of amazing FCAD tutorials. Check him out of you haven't already.

>>1938910
I know you've probably already read all the other replies. Keep in mind though that there are large resin printers and if you're serious about durability you'll just mold and cast parts anyway.

why is the ender 5 pro not on the recommended budget lists? is it not a good starter printer?
to me i would look at the ender 3 pro and think i would want to shell out the 100 more for the 5 with the cubic frame
anything i should really take into consideration or is a fairly care free choice? it would be about 350-380 yuro

>>1939573
Do it, it is a good printer

>>1939573
>why is the ender 5 pro not on the recommended budget lists? is it not a good starter printer?
Dude who made the lists here: I have seen very few people actually buying an Ender 5, especially in /3dpg/. Without verified reviews, I felt uncomfortable recommending the 5 when the 3 is popular, used ITT, and it just werks. Why bother paying more for a fancy frame at that point?
I don't think you'd end up with a bad printer per se, it's just that I don't see the value proposition when the Ender 3's exact purpose is value, and for ~400 euros you can have a bigger printer like a CR-10 or Chiron, those two will actually give you something (build volume) for your extra money.
I think you can go ahead and buy an Ender 5, and most likely won't be disappointed. It'd be nice to have someone in here with experience on the thing.

>>1939584
>>1939586
cool and thanks. will look into it a bit more for now

>>1939586
>I have seen very few people actually buying an Ender 5, especially in /3dpg/
I bought the Ender 3 Pro because you guys recommended it over the Ender 5 Pro for it having more users. That list became self fulfilling, it is time to adjust it.
While I like my E3 Pro some times I wish I had gotten the 5 Pro instead.

>>1939595
which advantages do you see in the e5 over the e3p?

>>1939600
Bed doesn't travel and jerk sideways, only gets lowered layer by layer, no Y-gantry related vibration and artifacts, better braced X-Y travel, better print quality, better printing speeds, bigger print volume, parts are more accessible for maintenance etc...

>>1938276
Change the M109 commands in the Start Block in your slicer settings to be M104 commands, or tweak them to a lower preheat temperature, then add M109 commands to the final temperature after the G28/G29 command so the print doesn't start before the bed reaches temp.

>>1939602
my thoughts about the e5 from my half-educated guesses:
>more complex and longer belt system can result in more backlash
>y-jerk since gantry+hotend weights more than hotbed
>heavy direct-drive setups have a toll on speeds since x+y are affected
>long bowdentube has to cover x+y max movement
>more moving parts to be maintained
all of this is debatable ofc, at the time i got the e3p it was like 150€ less than the e5 and the advantages like more sturdy, easy enclosable frame and bit of z-volume wasnt worth the premium for me, now its a nice-to-have

/3DPG/ have you done any casting with metal? My father has a crucible he said I could borrow, I would guess I could use it to make some fun DIY stuff using 3D prints to make lost wax castings. What are the easiest metals to work with? I've heard it's easy to basically do lead and tin (pewter). Any other metal suggestions? Good refrences?

>>1939657
i dont have the means to do metal casting but i know there is lost-pla casting filament, guess you need some sort of sand/ powder for the mold
thinking of it, maybe tin and a hot air gun would work for me

>>1939636
Your half educated guesses are as good as non-educated ones.
The belt system is not much complicated. It is an x-y-z printer but flipped axis. Belts are simple and smaller than on a CR-10.
The Y-jerk on the E3 (and prusa) is such a pain because the entire bed is moved along with the print. The X-Y gantry on the E5 is not really heavier than the X gantry on the E3, except it is moved in Y direction as well. The bed stays in place and only lowered layer by layer.
The higher printing speeds come from lower induced vibration so you can inch up the print speed and having more detail in the print.
Bowden tube is long on the E3 and it doesn't have to move up on the E5, not an issue
Same amount of moving parts, it is an X-Y-Z like the Ender 3 just flipped on axis.

>>1939664
I am pretty sure for these low heat applications you can use plaster if it's thoroughly dried. You can also use cuttlefish bone for higher temp casting like silver but I think I'm going to learn to walk before running.

>>1939657
I did the printwork, I outsourced the casting to a local artist. Getting these parts made would have cost at least 300EUR on a CNC mill, now I've got a manifold extension for ~50EUR. Lead is the easiest, but if you want a functional object brass is probably your next best bet. Aluminium is better, but more difficult in terms of temperature. He did it by lost-PLA casting, which involves plaster of paris instead of sand or powder, much more accurate.

>>1939657
Pewter is easy, anything Zn based goes up to 500°C, for Al even for highly alloyed low eutectics you'll need to go at least 800°C
Don't fucking go near Mg casting!!!!!

>>1939672
That is an excellent job, anon, worthy of next OP
I wonder how many will think it is actually 3d printed metal

>>1939675
Oh it's been in the OP several times, that was a year or so ago. Haven't do any more casting work since, although I'm encouraging a group of my students to go investigate a profesional workflow for lost-PLA casting. Report should be in late this academic year with a bit of luck.

>>1939678
Did you have to design the riser, vents, gatings etc... into the print or was it added later on?

>>1939681
All that was added later on with wax.

>>1939682
>>1939681

>>1939684
>>1939682
You managed to blow my mind, anon, well done!

>>1939687
>>1939684
>>1939682
Also, can you tell me more about the method? Don't worry about the lingo, I'm a material science engineer, only on the plastiform and analytics side. Mostly analytics.

>>1939688
I just made a 3D-print that would fit the intended part (S&S carburetor for an Indian V-twin), which took a trial part with some wrong dimensions, and then a final part. I was clever enough to print it in two pieces (hence the alignment ridge) so you'd have two flat planes to mount on the carb on one end, and the air filter on the other - of course they still needed to be planed in a mill, but it's much less hassle than with the green one, which would have needed a lot more cleaning up.
I then printed two of them, because I considered the chances of failure and I really wanted one as a paperweight. They were printed on an Ultimaker 2 in regular old PLA, using Cura and at 102 or 103% scale to account for shrinkage (can't remember which).
I them left them at the artist's, who took his sweet bloody time, but the result was great. Apparantely he added sprues and such, then put them in a box and cast plaster of paris over the whole bunch. The sprues stick out of the mold at this point, after it has hardened, they go into an industrial oven where the wax and PLA is melted out. You want to ramp up the temperature slowly so as not to burn the PLA. While there are specific kinds of PLA especially made for this process (so they don't burn) this worked beautifully.
I then got the piece, with the sprues already removed. They just needed some planing in a mill to get the planes nice and even , so as to seal on both ends, the mounting holes had to be re-drilled, and then some cleaning up of the internal bore. Came out great if I say so myself. They look nice and cast-y yet print-y, and they serve the purpose rather well.

>>1939674
Do you know where I can source pewter? Is it something I could find at a hardware store, a franchise hobby store, will I need to try to find a local vendor, or is my only option buying online. Could I go to a thrift shop and find old shit like cups and gravy trays? I would imagine shipping tin and lead ingots would not be cost effective, then again shipping ammo was pre corona and that is very heavy.

>>1939692
Those sprues are necessary for casting and is an art in itself to design them right around the part, especially with complicated ones and ones with cores (hollow). I huess the artist also had to figure out how to make them stick to the PLA since PLA is known to be hard to work with and generally things stick to it in weird, weak manner.
You might want to look into designing them onto the part next time to make it easier to work with, at least that is what I would do with my limited casting knowledge.

>>1939693
No, but I would start at Google. You just order chunks or pellets and heat it up in a casting crucible over a propane light

>>1939701
>I huess the artist also had to figure out how to make them stick to the PLA since PLA is known to be hard to work with and generally things stick to it in weird, weak manner.
Before I went to him I saw some Youtube videos where a bloke just used casting wax to form a tree with multiple parts, it sticks quite well to PLA apparently. I'd rather have the artist put on sprues by hand for a small free, rather than me designing the wrong sprues altogether.

>>1938051
>Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.

Where can I find a fusion360 torrent? I checked the usual places and I'm thinking it's not cracked.

>>1939708
You can download Fusion360 right off the website, say you are hobbyist who's not making money off of it, and they'll give you a free version. They do use your data, so it's not completely free and /g/tards will complain about that.

>>1939710
Isn't the free version stripped down?

>>1939713
It's useful enough for most hobbyists, you just need to archive whatever you're not working on since you can only have so much active parts.

>>1939708
Fusion360 is a cloud only service, you can pirate Inventor which is its big brother easily.

>>1939710
>They do use your data, so it's not completely free and /g/tards will complain about that.
Free as in freedom, not free beer. Nobody was ever under the impression it was free, its closed course cloud based program.

People have reservations about this because you are beholden to autodesks will.
And guess what? They were fucking right, they got a bunch of people hooked, got a bunch of people making and storing all their parts onto their servers. Then the pulled the rug out from everyone, seriously hindering functionality while at the same time doubling the price of their software while making it difficult to get all your work off the program into another.

And guess what, its going to happen again, you just dont know when or how or to what extent.
You are fucking stupid if you continue to use the free version.

>>1939713
Yeah, and you have no clue when its going to be stripped down more or discontinued all together. They used to have an affordable hobby license, but they got greedy and removed it, which is why all the hobby people started using the free version, which is why they suddenly are punishing and pushing you to buy the full licenses.
Dont take the bait unless you are willing to pay for the full license.

>>1939722
>You are fucking stupid if you continue to use the free version.
Joke's on you, I have a full version that's still free - thank god for educational licensing.

>>1939724
They just nerfed the educational licensing to 1 year, and you have to reapply and be "approved" every single year now. They also made the small shop/startup license a lot harder to get to.

The walls are closing in, so be prepared to pay the price when its all over

>>1939728
We have to do the same thing with Solidworks every year. The year one of them blinks and charges educational users is the year the other gains a vast amount of universities and such, the graduates of which will push towards one or the other.
Still, even if you have to pay, Autodesk is cheapest right now. If you're a small startup Fusion or Inventor is probably your best bet unless you anticipate cooperating with Solidworks-driven companies a lot.

>>1939722
I think most people that use it to make light edits to step files they downloaded or make simple hobby junk. If you're serious, sure pirate a normal para modeler but just downloading fusion 360 is quick and easy for piddly shit.

>>1939573
The cube frame doesn't really offer much over the ender 3. It's not a coreXY so it doesn't have the very lightweight gantry. It's just marginally easier to enclose but you can just stick the ender 3 in an ikea LACK or any box so it's not a big deal

>>1939732
The problem is, Fusion is garbage compared to Inventor and Solidworks. No actual shops are using fusion.
For actual industry and education, you should be learning Solidworks anyways. They know cheap student pricing is why they have the market share.

The whole point of fusion was that its a hobby level program for low end computers.
The fact that they have drastically raised the price and are now pretending that its something different should be concerning to your hobbyist
You cant buy a license of an older version they can continue to use for years, its on the cloud and they WILL pay whatever they are charging.

For most of /3dpg/ just fucking around, its a serious trap they should avoid, especially seeing how the workflow is vastly different than other softwares, so when they get pissed and leave they will have to relearn everything.

>>1939734
There are actual free open source programs you can do quick and light editing with. No need to get into bed with autodesk who will inevitably fuck you.

>>1939740
The free version of fusion 360 is still for.

>>1939740
You definitely dont sound like you have a /g/tard with a chip on your shoulder

You're libe one of those people that goes on a rant to some random anon when you see them using an iPhone

>>1939792
lol @ not using the free, industrial level programs. You should learn to model and not just use an interface.

>>1939792
This comment would have been relevant, a month ago if we hadnt just watched Autodesk flex and fuck over a bunch of people.

>>1939796
For a hobby 3d printing guy, industrial programs literally dont give you any advantage

>>1939801
Not that dude but for starters you don't run the risk of getting the middle finger when you're using pirated shit.
Also knowing how to use a high profile CAD like Solidworks may help you in your career.

>>1939801
For hobbyists big boy 3d packages are literally just a bigger pain in the ass to learn and use compared to something like Fusion.

For professionals it doesn't matter because learning new software is as easy as breathing assuming you're not completely incompetent.

>>1939800
The changes to the free version literally don't affect most of the people using it

>>1939805
There are many open source programs you dont have to pirate.
Learning Fusion360 doesnt help you understand Solidworks.

>>1939814
For a hobbyist, you have all sorts of free resources that wont get pulled out from under your feet or charge you $500 a year.

>>1939816
The restrictions on active models is actually a hindrance to anyone.
Regardless, at what point do they do this again and take away something you do care about?
If you are just fucking around on your 3d printer, why bother getting roped into the horse shit?
There is no good reason to deal with it, and it will eventually bite you in the ass.
It already bit everyone who has any halfway complicated 3d parts in the ass.
To continue and tell just hobby guys that all is ok and nothing bad will happen after it just fucking did is being disingenuous.

>>1939819
>Learning Fusion360 doesnt help you understand Solidworks.
BS. Unfortunately Fusion doesn't have any accredited testing, but f you can make CSWA-tier parts in Fusion, you can make them in Solidworks within a day's worth of experience.

>>1939693
Nobody really casts pure pewter outside of people making keepsakes; when most hobbyists say pewter what they mean is casting metal (a mix of tin and antimony). Don't even need special tools, you can melt the stuff in a saucepan (though I wouldn't eat out of it afterwards).

>>1939819
>There are many open source programs you dont have to pirate.
like openCAD which literally crashes as soon as you launch it?

>>1939693
i sourced my pewter from a supplier in ontario because i'm a leaf and that's what i found online. you can melt the stuff with a hand torch, it starts to get soft as soon as the flame hits. i used the wrong silicone to make a mould but it still worked. Mold Max 60 is meant to deal with heat but i used dragon skin which is for prosthetics but it still turned out okay

>>1939838
>i used dragon skin
is this what dragon dildos are made from?
looks really good tho, i take it that the print was to make the mold and its not lost-pla casting?

>>1939841
correct, you need a kiln to do lost-pla

>>1939836
>there are many
>cherrypicks one
Nevermnid, go pay to be spoonfed

>>1939805
I already know how to dri that though, I just wanted a simple program that justwerksTM for tweaking models slightly and autodesk fusion was the easiest most straight forward program for that

>>1938500
>$50,000 for an ender 3
just get a prusa at that point, it's just $800

>>1939897
I don't think it is in US dollar (or Canadian or Austrian für that matter)

>>1939897
>>1939899
He's a countryman of mine, a fellow boludo. Those prices are in Argentine Pesos. The official exchange rate is ~ARS80/USD, and the real exchange rate is ~ARS170/USD. He'll pay the official exchange rate when importing, so it's ~USD600.

There's no happy punchline.

>>1939903
Why the dollar symbol? Are you a country of posers?

>>1939886
Use openSCAD

Anyone know how much power the prusa i3 draws with the heated bed printing ABS?

>>1939906
The use of a slashed-S symbol for money predates the United States Dollar. It was born as the symbol for the Spanish American Peso in the late 1700's, also called Gold Dollar or Piece of Eight, as it was subdivisible in eight Reales. The symbol originated from the superimposition of a P and S letters, from the abbreviation of Peso as "Ps". If anything, you are the copycats, but nobody's complaining. My only complaint is the embrace of fiat currency by both our governments.

>>1939909
Reserve 1kW for it and be happy

>>1939909
About as much as any other printer with a 200x200 heated bed printing ABS

>>1938051
My Bowden tube is old and needs replacing. I'm thinking about converting my whole setup to direct drive instead of just replacing the part.
Any pros/cons? Anyone else using it?

>>1939909
Probably not over 400W.
Peak power draw is when it's heating up, for the rest of the print it's only around half of that.

What's the best value coreXY? Voron2?

>>1939985
Value is subjective. State your objectives.

>>1939996
I want the best bang for your buck coreXY in terms of print speed, print quality, and overall reliability. Minimum print volume should be roughly ~Ender3 size, but of course bigger is always nice.

>>1940003
Ender3 + CoreXY mod?

I'm somewhat new to 3D printing and I'm planning to buy a 3D printer for stuff like 3d cases for my electronic projects or generally small parts (mostly for DIY/functional purposes).
So far, I've been thinking about buying Ender 3, 3 Pro or CR-10. What do you think?

>>1939985
Ender 5. Shares a lot of parts with Ender 3s and CR-10s and is the most popular coreXY out there.

>>1940005
Can that print at 300mm/s like a Voron2?

>want to print some spiders from tpu
>first time printing tpu with volcano hotend
>use same slow profile as on the stock mk10 hotend
>clogs with 0.4mm nozzle
>clogs with 1mm nozzle
>clogs with 1.2mm nozzle
i faintly remember something about lubricating the inside of the volcano nozzle so filament wont stick and clog as easy - does anyone know more about this?
or any other solutions? the filament printed easy and clean on the mk10

>>1940011
Not without some serious upgrades.
You said you wanted best value. Both the modded Ender3 and the Ender5 are good values. You get decent quality, speed and reliability out of the box and room for upgrades further down the road.
I can't even tell if the Voron2 is a good value since I can't find a price for it.
For comparison the Ender6 is advertised to be able to do 300mm/s but that costs close to 600$.

>>1940032
Thanks. A Voron 2.4 is a DIY build that goes anywhere from $1k to $1.5k depending on part quality. I wasn't aware of the Ender 6. 300mm/s at $600 sounds really promising, damn.

>>1939985
Anything with rails.

I got an eryone thinker se on sale for like 370 cad
Pretty sweet deal. Havent calibrated it yet but it prints pretty nice.

>>1940038
I'd take that claim with a grain of salt since this comes from the mouth of a chinaman.
From what I can gather it's powered solely by a 32bit silent board which I doubt is capable of such high speeds without sacrificing quality.
Most high speed high quality builds on Ender3s and 5s run Klipper alongside a Raspberry Pi that does part of the command processing.
Also
>300mm/s on a bowden extruder
Really activates my almonds.

The best part of the Ender6 is that it's partially enclosed out of the box, but that doesn't really justify the increased cost.
Best bet is to get an Ender5 and upgrades for it.

>>1940050
So we're looking at ~$600 for a coreXY modded Ender 5? Why not go with an Ender6 at that point? I have a fairly tricked out direct drive Ender 3 which prints pretty well at 70-100mm/s using Octopi/Klipper.

Ender 5 sounds alright but I'm kinda looking for a bigger step up in speed and volume, hence the interest in Voron builds. No one here has a Voron2.4?

>>1940028
>tpu
you really need a direct drive to print tpu. and a volcano probably makes things much worse.

>>1940009
Yes

>>1940048
Nice benchy. What layer height?

>>1940085
Really? I bought some TPU but have not been able to use it yet, but I was thinking of switching to a volcano. Is it hard to print with a volcano hotend for some reason?

>>1940114
volcano prints fast and needs a really good flow of filament.. much higher than what your bowden setup can provide. to print tpu you really need a direct drive.

>>1940128
I was not him, I have a direct drive CR-10 but I was going to put a volcano on it for glass filled nylon. Would I need to swap out hotends to print TPU?

>Grid infill causes vertical lines on outer walls of calibration cubes
>Lines are easily mistaken for acceleration artefacts by newbies
>The xyz calibration cube and cali cat pages don't mention it at all

>>1940188
Increase the number of perimeters.
I'd recommend using "alternate extra perimeter", also, as it kinda sandwiches the infill, making a stronger part.

who here uses atomic filament, specifically their white ultra impact v2? is it worth the cost over something like esun pla pro?

well my grad level 3d printing course has started. know next to nothing about it so I guess I'll start lurking this general. Do you guys have a textbook you'd recommend?

>>1940249
No book recommendations, but there are a bunch of good youtube channels to check out.

>when your 3d printing thread is deader than the other 3d printing thread

serves you right, Nazis

>>1940270
Im new here
Does this place actually harbour nazis? Gross im out

>>1940249
Step #1: Get your own 3d printer or build it, even if it is a cheap one.

There are no textbooks that adequately cover this topic.
Stick with us and you will be the class's best dragon dildo printer in no time!

>>1940271
>harbour
Is the ocean racist now? How can we destroy it? The ocean must be made equal to the land!
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>1940274
>destroy the oceans
I meant "cancel" how can we cancel the oceans out of love?

>>1940270
>>1940271
Freedom of speech means speech you disagree with, too.
Grow thicker skin.

>>1940277
Lmao fuck freedom of speech and fuck wh*teys

>>1940279
Yeah! Preach my LGBTQ POC brother!!!

Do you know how many of our POC friends are killed every year by Nazi harbours??? It's a lot. They aren't good at swimming.

Reminder: The only entity that has ever literally harboured Nazis is the ocean!
Cancel the oceans!!! Equity!!! If some of my brothers can't swim, nobody swims!!!!

>>1940277
Freedom of speech only applies to Americans, not Nazis.

Is this why everyone left the boards here a few months ago?

Are there any good 3d printing discords they went to?

>>1940085
>direct drive
yes, my bmg feeds directly into the v6 heatsink, i'm running this setup: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4072013
>>1940137
>>1940114
i think the problem is that the tpu melts too far up in the nozzle and sticks to the walls there, some people have the same problems with pla. i ordered a can of telfon spray to season the nozzles with and will see if that will resolve the problem
>>1940302
when i got my printer i was here every day, now that i know a thing or two i come here maybe once a day, i think my prints arent worth sharing

>>1940249
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nb-Bzf4nQdE

>>1940321
>i think my prints arent worth sharing
I am sure your prints are beautiful, anon. You have a lot to offer and any chan would be lucky to have you

>>1939713
Not really. You can create models the same as the "full" version. There's a couple of guys who are militantly against it, though, for some reason.

>>1940326
Thank you Autodesk shill. I like to be in control of my own work on my own drives, plus I don't want to wait fucking 10 minutes to save an STL.
Solid Edge for me it is.

>>1940335
>wait fucking 10 minutes to save an STL
no such thing

>>1940359
it can be a thing if you push all the sliders to the very left so you get ridiculous tiny mesh that end up in really big files
i think that user-error though, no reason to have models with 0.0001mm deviation when the printer tolerances are only good for 0.1mm

>>1939740
>especially seeing how the workflow is vastly different than other softwares, so when they get pissed and leave they will have to relearn everything
???
CAD is CAD is CAD (unless you're using FreeCAD, which makes you a retard anyway). It's not "vastly different", sketches and extrudes and lofts and revolves and shells and etc. etc. work the same way they do in any other normal CAD program.

>>1939814
this

So I've been using the glass bed for like 2 weeks and I kept it on the carriage with clips as recommended.
Now I wanted to remove it and wash it but it seems it glued itself to the magnet. Anyone ever had this happen?

>>1940359
So you don't actually use F360. It is a cloud based shitfest and doesn't use local resources when exporting a measely STL file, instead posts it into the cloud and does it on server. The """free""" """""license""""" means it takes its sweet time and you have to wait fucking 10 minutes for a simple export.
Solid Edge does it under 0.2 seconds with finest mesh settings.

>>1940368
Forgot that it also holds your files hostage and Autodesk feels entitled to all your work.

>>1940326
>couple of guys who are militantly against it
Well theres the spying on you and affiliation with google
Theres the bieng under the corperate thumb
thing
I really cant see investing myself in learning software that I don't have control of and the rules could be changed at any time.
I doubt it's only >a couple of guys

>>1939038
Nice balls man

>>1939038
Balls are touching

>>1940368
You can right click on a component and save directly to stl in the free version.

>>1940414
I can do everything without having to circumnavigate ass backwards in Solid Edge. Fuck off, nobody wants your shill garbage!

I have a one year old stock Ender 3. Does it need any upgrades to improve my prints? I mostly print smaller things in PLA.
I plan on getting a carborundum bed. Anything else?
Thanks bros.

>>1940512
Yellow bedsprings, a better bed carriage plate (this is where the Pro with its wider Y gantry worth the extra 10 bucks), dual geared extruder with hobbed gears, better hotend cooling and part cooling shrouds
Maybe 32bit silent board

>>1940512
>I plan on getting a carborundum bed
I would go with the lighter magnetic bed or magnetic steel sheet bed, the glass bed has extra mass that the narrow gantry of the original E3 can't hold well and wobbles. Basically you will lose detail and you'll still need to print slower as well.

>>1940512
Printable by yourself:
>bed knob detents so as not to relevel the bed every print
>cablechains or a rear corner knob thingy so the moving cables don't snag
>part fan shroud for uniform cooling
>filament sponge filter
>filament guide
Regarding bed mass (>>1940531), consider a linear rail, although it can get expensive depending on where you're from

>>1940512
what are your prints lacking in quality wise?
>Yellow bedsprings
why is nobody ever suggesting silicone dampers instead? i think they are really stable over a long time

>>1940431
This is why I use Solidworks. Besides, certain things in 360 are a pain to use, or they were taken away.

>>1940542
>>bed knob detents so as not to relevel the bed every print

I guarantee this will do nothing. The primary issue with the bed is that it's on springs to begin with with screws that cause binding. Every time you pull off a print you cause the screws and springs to shift and bind in a new way which is off 'level'. The only way to fix this is to ditch the springs, permanently attach the screws to the bed and put in captive nuts into the bed carriage to allow for adjustment. This will cause a new set of issues though because the screws should really be on ball joints attached to the bed.

These 'makers' haven't really put any thought into the bad engineering that is causing the problems they are experiencing and these 'upgrades' are just cosmetic things really because they don't change the operation of the machine in any appreciable way. Those drag chains are near useless and actually a fire hazard, that's what caused the original anet housefire meme; some guys heater cart came loose and set his 3d printed shroud on fire and the fire then spread to the flammable 3d printed drag chain. Filament guides do nothing and most of the fan shrouds out there are made based on looks and not airflow.

>>1940527
Thanks so much anon!
>dual geared extruder with hobbed gears, better hotend cooling and part cooling shrouds
Which extruder do you recommend and which shrouds? Thanks again.
>>1940531
I was not aware of this. Thanks.
>>1940542
>part fan shroud for uniform cooling
any suggestions? which one do you use?
Thanks anon!
>>1940553
>what are your prints lacking in quality wise?
Well, I haven't compared my prints to others. I used to go to local makerspace but those days are long gone due to china flu. I did get a lot better by tweaking my prints but I still can't compare it to what others print.
>why is nobody ever suggesting silicone dampers instead? i think they are really stable over a long time
Just looked those up. Can you really compress those enough to level the bed properly? Any brand/model you recommend?

Thanks so much anons!

My balls have arrived. After anons mentioned this option for dampening earlier in this thread, I've researched this shit and looked at commercial dampening options and this is y far the most economical way to go. And I bet it's better than all those rubber bolt solutions that cost way more than balls.
Anyone else using balls?

>>1940366
I just spritz it with isopropyl alcohol and rub it with a sponge.

>>1940512
If you're printing small things, consider getting a nozzle smaller than .4

>>1940614
I've been using stick glue to hold my ABS prints down and now it's a mess that needs proper scrubbing.
Isopropyl makes the glue get sticky again instead of making it come off. It needs a scrubbing with soap.

>>1940609
Paving stone + foam pad. Best reduction in vibration.

>>1940592
>>>bed knob detents so as not to relevel the bed every print
>I guarantee this will do nothing
It did do lots for me. Now I only have to relevel by a knob knurl or two due to your mentioned binding shifts instead of having the knob crawl multiple, uncounted turns due to vibrations.
>Those drag chains are near useless
Useful enough for me.
>some guys heater cart came loose
That's why you anchor the cables on both ends of the chain, like in industrial settings, so they don't tug on the connectors, and why you don't make the heater cart out of plastic. Also, if the heater comes loose, the dish of spaghetti on the bed is much more of a fire hazard than the lengths of cablechain way out of the way. Then again, if you don't want the cablechain, you can use the other solution I gave, a smooth rail end knob that guides the cables out of the way instead of having them snag on the corner of the rail.
>Filament guides do nothing
It did reduce snags for me.
>most of the fan shrouds out there are made based on looks and not airflow
Granted, but it still worked for me. I did have to try a few until I found one that positively improved my prints.

These subpar solutions are subpar, granted, but they are still better than doing nothing at all. Especially if you know how to iterate forward from there.

>>1940597
>>part fan shroud for uniform cooling
>any suggestions? which one do you use?
I tried a few, the one that works relatively well with my Ender 3 is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460583 . The greatest improvement over the others I've tried is that the only part close to the nozzle is the ventilation ring, which has a constant flow of air when the part fan is on, so it's actively cooled and doesn't soften too rapidly. YMMV.

>>1940623
I use hair spray for that. Just a quick spritz where the print will be.

>>>1940279
So much for free speech
Thin skinned reporters

>>1940609
>My balls have arrived
About time, anon
Jokes aside, that's the second-best option, with the best option I've heard being a slab of concrete/stone and a layer of rubber/foam (>>1940626). Having currently access to neither, and with the greatest source of noise now being the motors themselves (haven't upgraded the board yet), I printed PLA feet fit to the rails and moved the rubber stickers to under them and called it a day. Also some various fan shrouds helped break up and silence the airflow a bit.

Picrelated: spamprinter looking halfway between commercial bullcrap, a diy heap of parts, and bolted-together chink shit

What does /3dpg/ print?
https://www.strawpoll.me/21183491

>>1940626
>Paving stone + foam pad. Best reduction in vibration.
I have watched that video. it is the best but not by much. Balls are only slightly worse. But... they're totally hidden, stay attached to the machine and they're not bulky. You get 95% benefits of the block but without any negatives.

>>1940660
Thanks for the confirmation anon! Damn that's a nice set of mods! Which of those mods would you print again? Please share the links!
I'm still printing cups for the balls...

>>1938340
>Not getting a genius
Retard you and this board

>>1940750
>tfw printed with everything but ASA
Gotta get me a spool of that stuff next then.

>>1940750
I want to print this so bad.

>>1940750
>PLA first place
/3dpg/ confimed a bunch of filthy casuals that can't into superior materials like ABS.

>>1940789
>ABS
>Superior
Maybe in terms of warpage. PETG>ABS

>>1940790
ABS is better for high temp applications.
At 100C your amazing PETG is already soft and malleable.
Also
>his ABS warps
lmao
get gud

>>1940792
If I want quick and easy printing, I use PLA.
If I want a few hassles but a bit stronger print, I use PETG.
If I want to deal with ABS-tier hassles, forced to use the expensive 50K EUR printer with a heated enclosure, etc. nobody in their right mind would use ABS - just move straight to Nylon, preferably with CF.
ABS is poorfag cope for people who don't understand functional printer, or can't afford an expensive printer with proper temperature control.

>>1940796
>forced to use the expensive 50K EUR printer with a heated enclosure
>for ABS
The fuck are you on about, you can print ABS just fine on an Ender 3 with printable mods.
ABS is the perfect high temperature material for the average person to print at home. ASA is also a good choice but it's more expensive.
If you want to go balls to the wall and print your ABS in a printer more expensive than your house that is rated for nylon then nobody is stopping you. Just because you have a 50K$ printer and you choose to print ABS in it doesn't mean it's the only machine that can do so.

>>1940806
>you can print ABS just fine on an Ender 3 with printable mods.
No, you can slap layers of ABS together. There's a difference between what you call layer adhesion, and proper intermingling of the polymer chains between those layers. The latter requires much higher temperatures, and an actively heated enclosure. If you sacrifice proper layer adhesion - might as well print PETG, it's much easier and won't warp on your consumer tier printer.
ABS has no place in the modern printing world.

>>1940809
>No, you can slap layers of ABS together
Same thing can be said about any other material that is 3D printed. If you're looking for injection molding results then 3D printing is not the place to look for them.
>proper intermingling of the polymer chains between those layers
What you are describing here is only attained via injection molding. Polymer chains are like ropes, they need to be weaved together, something a 3D printer cannot do, no matter how fancy or expensive.
>ABS has no place in the modern printing world.
Fuck off with your armchair expert opinions.

>>1940757
>Thanks for the confirmation anon!
You're welcome desu. Also you can skip the layer of foam/rubber now that you have rubber balls if you want to upgrade to a slab.
>Damn that's a nice set of mods!
N-no anon, don't flatter me, your balls and feet will be nicer desu~~~
None of the mods are designed by me, but they are indeed nice finds.

>Which of those mods would you print again? Please share the links!

Knurled knobs:
Extruder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3585506
Z-axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3588485
Control knob: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4204606

Fan covers:
Control board fan cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3167675
Extruder fan silencer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558310
Part fan shroud+duct+grill: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460583
Collides with cable chain set

Bed knob detents: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563
Rear left detent collides with cable chain set

Cable chain set: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4163098
I have to redo the bed end to make it lower, as the part fan duct interferes with it when going to X0, YMAX. It also interferes a bit with the detent. I could merge both pieces.
I also have to redo the extruder end to make it sit lower. It interferes with a hook for the cables in the vanilla extruder, and don't want to cut it off. Also the chain would bump against the top rail, and I should rework the hotend end of the chain too. That interference is why I didn't install the chain length between the extruder and the hotend.

LCD rear cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3661665
I won't credit the bezel itself, from another combo. It's shitty and won't stay in place.

Hole flanges: They're smol. They're stupid. They require a bit of filing and glue. But they have saved me hours of trying to shove stuff in. I love them.
USB: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3350097
μSD: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240173

Filament filter cases: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153807
1/?

>>1940824
Fascinating list! Never knew most of these things existed. Thanks so much anon for sharing. This is why I lurk in these threads.

>>1940824
2/2
Z-axis covers:
Left: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4045310
Right: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4043339

Z-axis limit switch cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3588095
Had to butcher it a bit because my switch is a couple mm too high

Tool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886395
USB holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4312765
Printed a second one to hold a bit of sponge and the nozzle dildo wire

Flament clips (on the filament roll): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585786
Filament guide: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

Cable clips:
Front ribbon: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375
Could be replaced with one of the following, another of which I used for the rear power cable:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613532

Feet:
Loops: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515471
Can't find the lower disk for the love of me

I think that about wraps it

>>1940833
I love you too

>>1940836
Thanks again! I'm downloading all of these and will be printing many of them soon.
Quick Q... Y-axis belt tensioner... yay or nay? I know that Ender v2 comes with it....

>>1940836
3/2

X-axis carriage cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4050465
Incompatible with the x-axis end of the cable chain. Graduated to customer^W hashioki so i can enjoy sushi before my shithole dies. >>1938500 dale bo.

>>1940844
Sure. I'm personally waiting to find the correct one. I have a y-axis rail end which I won't credit because it interferes with the bed when it goes to YMAX. I'd like to find one which can be used as x-belt tensioner too. Anal ternative would be to rip both axis out and replace them with screws.

>>1940851
The x-axis hashioki and what passes for sushi in Buenos Aires, from where I am, and I say kill'em all.

>>1940844
>Y-axis belt tensioner... yay or nay? I know that Ender v2 comes with it
Wayment
>Ender v2 comes with it
Maybe it's in the Creality git repo

>>1940859
>>1940851
>Ender 3 v2 tensioners in the repo
Well lookie here
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/blob/master/Ender-3%20Mechanical/Ender-3%20Parts/ASM%20X-Belt%20Tensioner.SLDASM
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/blob/master/Ender-3%20Mechanical/Ender-3%20Parts/ASM%20Y-Belt%20Tensioner.SLDASM

>>1940597
I've been using the Hero Me shroud, the stock part cooling fan will be weak for the split ducts. Use a single side and adapter if the side duct doesn't come in 4010 size.
You can find it on Thingiverse

For anyone wanting to print ABS, don't. Get ASA instead, much better in every way.
Greentec Pro also has good heat resistance and prints as easy as PLA.

>>1940861
awesome!
>SolidWorks Assembly File
Ugh... how do I get an STL out of this? I don't have SW (and use Linux too).
Would some kind anon make STL files for us please?

>>1940873
>>SolidWorks Assembly File
>Ugh... how do I get an STL out of this? I don't have SW (and use Linux too).
Me three anon, me three.
I just tried the SolidWorks plugin... which requires SolidWorks. Fuck. There was a plugin for an old version of Cura that reportedly did convert SLDASM to STL. I maybe could try that tomorrow.

>>1940851
4/2
PSU fan cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631303

>>1940873
>>1940876
Assembly files are useless on their own. You'll need the part files too.

>>1940893
Unless they are "virtual" parts contained within the assembly.

>>1940894
>>1940893
I don't see any parts similarly named anons, and the file sizes make sense. My guess, until somebody manages to open them, is that they're embedded as virtual parts.

>>1940910
>I don't see any parts similarly named anons, and the file sizes make sense. My guess, until somebody manages to open them, is that they're embedded as virtual parts.
I'm trying this:
https://workbench.grabcad.com/
It's still "processing" after 35min.
Something must be fucked with my browser or something (maybe some ad blocking thing is fucking it up).
Supposedly you can open SW files with it and export. Free too. If anyone succeeds, PLEASE post the STL files.

>>1940912
Spooktober hasn't ended, anon

>>1940924
this is the slowest fucking webapp in the world. I bet they're purposely slowing shit down for free users. imagine having to wait 45+ min to export some tiny-ass part...

>>1940912
I have solidworks installed so I can tell you that's just the assembly file. You have to search github for the parts used in the assembly as well.

>>1940936
Could you do us a favour and open them and tell us which parts do they reference? I have searched the repo for "tension" and haven't found much beyond those assemblies.

>>1940936
>I have solidworks installed so I can tell you that's just the assembly file. You have to search github for the parts used in the assembly as well.
If you search for tensioner, only few files show up. So where are the parts?
>>1940938
this! tell us what it references.

>>1940938
>>1940942
Here you go. They're all on github under Ender-3/Ender-3 Mechanical/Ender-3 Parts/

>>1940944
That sounds like the X-axis, which doesn't have an adjustable tensioner by the looks of it. But thanks.
Could you do the Y-axis tensioner too?

>>1940947
This is for the Y axis

>>1940951
Foo, looks like they're for the old fixed tensioners. But thanks for putting us out of our error, anon.

>>1940951
>>1940938
>>1940910

hmmmm... this looks nothing like some of the y-axis tensioner.
I think this is the v2 belt tensioner:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144

Anyone know for sure? Also, there's a bunch of re-mixes so I don't know which one is the best...
Some help/advice is much appreciated...

>>1940958
Not the official tensioners, but they could work. If I'm not wrong, those work with the original screws. Wanna try them out and tell?

>>1940981
I have a very long print job (still ~8hrs left) so can't try it anytime soon. Tomorrow afternoon at the earliest...

>>1940981
all right, grabcad finally sent me an email and when I opened the exported STL file, this is what came out.
This is an Ender 3 tensioner... def not v2. This is made out of metal on an Ender too.

>>1940986
Arright, I don't have anything queued. I'll try it tomorrow.
>>1940989
F in chat for your time, anon

>>1940991
Sweet! Let us know how it goes.
This is what an official v2 tensioner looks like...

>>1940996
Oh, that's a lot nicer than mine.

>>1940996
The x carriage is atrocious and unmoddable. I'm happy I got my v1.

>>1938051
why won't this slice?? I'm beyond confused.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4077747
it's the "x" pattern used for bed leveling..
can someone pls help?

>>1941011
>Please review settings and check if your models:
>- Fit within the build volume
<Currently set to 0.2 mm thickness and 200 x 200 mm, non-uniform scale it to suit your layer height and bed size

Try shinking it a bit. What's your build volume?

Help, I cant get my filament into the hole. Just finished building ender 3 pro. Watched videos on it, but I cant do it.

>>1941015
it should be enough, right?

>>1941025
cut the filament at 45deg angle and make it straight (bend it). then just push it in. make sure your print head is hot... and just push

>>1941025
Are you pushing down the lever? It moves the roller out of the way and you should be able to see it if you're looking from the side.
I generally remove the bowden tube when setting up a new filament. Makes it easier to see when you got it in right.

>>1941026
Not sure mate. Shrink it a few % until it's all inside the white square. I fear printhead size shenanigans. Maybe 170x170, it's late here and I don't have my quick mafs driver loaded.

>>1941032
Thanks! Scaling to 90% fixed it. thanks.

>>1941036
You're welcome! Send pics when you're done!

>>1940750
PLA dragon dildos

>>1940809
>ABS has no place in the modern printing world.
This

>>1940431
>circumnavigate ass backwards
>right-clicking
You sure Tinkercad isn't more your speed?

>>1940368
You're just fucking retarded and making things up at this point. You don't even need an internet connection to export an STL, that's incompatible with what you said

>>1941011
set bed adhesion to none, you don't need a brim here

>>1941122
THANK YOU!
That totally fixed it. And it's not wasting a massive amount of plastic either.

What's the FR setting on the ender 3 pro LCD do?

>>1941131
French, probably.

Thinking about scavenging some stepper motors and bands from old printers.
Any advice?

>>1941132
No it's 100% and changes with the knob

>>1941144
Feed rate.

This is my first ever print on my first printer. Is it going well?

>>1941145
Thanks

>>1941147
Looks alright so far. Not super fond of rafts, though.

Bump limit

>>1941150
I just did whatever the slicer chose, it's spaghetti now but I did scale it down a lot to print with the sample filament

>>1941171
How horrifying. Did you jew out on supports?

>>1941216
I didn't even think about supports it's my first ever print. is there a one click option for supports?

>>1941219
Use Tree Supports in Cura. You have to enable it first.

How come there aren't any extruders with high gear ratio? I mean other than that flexdrive but that's got a flexible shaft

>>1941237
Define high gear ratio? Bondtech QR is 5:1.

>>1941237
My geared extruder is 1:1 but holding the filament from both sides and using hobbed gears instead of pinion made a huge difference in extrusion precision. Extruder is a lot stronger and the flow rate is actually constant because the hobbed gears don't mangle the filament, unlike the stock pinion drive extruder.

>>1941244
IIRC the flexdrive is 20:1 or 40:1

>>1941249
But with higher gear ratio you can use a much lighter motor for direct drive.

>>1941250
>>1941244
You could use this, and then replace the regular size Nema17 with a pancake unit:
>https://www.robotshop.com/en/nema-17-stepper-motor-bipolar-511-planetary-gearbox.html

>>1941250
>lighter motor for direct drive
Yeah, I use bowden (and fine with it) so I don't really think about that aspect.

>>1941253
The metal gear boxes are usually pretty heavy, I don't think there's any point in using them for the aforementioned purposes.

>>1941222
Is that also in the creality slicer?

>>1941270
Yes, you have to enable it, I think it is in the experimental section. While it is "experimental" it is the superior support method, prints faster, uses less material, is stronger and the regular support features still apply to it, like how dense you want the top net of the support etc...

>>1941270
Wait, creality slicer. Depends if it is the one based on Cura, but at this point it is better to just install Cura

>>1941270
uninstall creality slicer and use something like cura or prusaslicer. none of the anons here had a good time with creality slicer

I'm going to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro to a silent board, and none of you can stop me!

Is this a good idea? where do I get these?

>>1941287
Congrats anon! Send vocaroos of your printer printing with the old and new boards!

>>1941295
>Is this a good idea?
Depending on your local climate, it may either be a waste of money or a base necessity. If you need and get them, be sure to get some desiccant.
>where do I get these?
Dunno, ebay?

>>1941347
>>1941295
PD: my filament comes in ziploc-like self-sealing bags, so I just shove some desiccand bags in there

>>1941347
>Dunno, ebay?
can't find them anywhere. not even sure what to search for... these are not filament containers (searching for that brings up super-expensive heated shit)
>>1941349
>PD: my filament comes in ziploc-like self-sealing bags, so I just shove some desiccand bags in there
same. but I'd like something more permanent so I can suck the air out of them.

>>1941350
Round hermetic plastic container?

>>1941352
thanks.
"round storage container" works a lot better. But... I can't tell if the roll would fit. Hmmm... seems too small.

>>1941287
which board will you get?
don't take the creality one

>>1940991
>Arright, I don't have anything queued. I'll try it tomorrow.
Aw shiet I forgot, currently have a very kinky dragon dildo on the bed, shaped like a self-watering flower pot. I'll print it as soon as I finish that.

>>1941382
I think I'll try 2x this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3068872
With deez nutz: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3161337

>>1941384
>>1940991

>>1941381
I'll take the Creality one. 32 bit 4.2.7
Mainly because I'll get it for nearly free.

>>1940782
>Ultem
GLHF, if you figure out a way to do it cheaply, let us know (and yes I'm aware of the one "hi-temp printer on a college student budget so no need to reference that again)

>>1941382
>>1941402
very nice. let us know when you start the print

>>1941411
I started it as soon as I posted that, currently 36m in and ~28% done

>>1941002
It's just a shroud, you can take it off and install a better one

>>1941415
Anybody has pictures of a nakey Ender 3 v2 x-carriage with its shroud off?

>>1941413
nice! pls post some pics when you're done.

>>1941426
soon

>>1941456
looks great so far!

>>1941457
Thanks :3
>>1941456
>>1941426
Some curling but nothing terrible

>>1941470
Scratch that

>>1941474
any idea what went wrong? underextrusion maybe?

>>1941475
>>1941474
Bad adhesion. The extrusion looks around good, I'm not sure whether to increase infill (had 20%) or lay it on its side. I'll retry with 100%.

>>1941478
I'm not as experienced as you but could you explain how bed adhesion can cause issues so far high up in the model? doesn't bed adhesion affect only the first few layers?

>>1941489
I was referring to layer adhesion; adhesion between different layers of the model. In this case, the part broke between layers, because the layers didn't adhere, or stick together, strong enough. I had a 20% gyroid infill, which doesn't provide much contact between the different layers, so I was relying only on contact along the walls. On twisting the nut onto the screw and holding it by its base, I exerted a torque on the screw leg, which translated onto a compression-tension pair on the base of the leg, and the section under tension pulled apart.

Bed adhesion occurs between the model (or raft) and the bed.

>>1941496
thanks anon! got it.

>>1941505
You're welcome anon. Nice digits.
https://youtu.be/iV5VKdcQOJE

>>1941515
good taste anon, good taste. do I wann know is one of my fav songs.

>>1941474
Seems to work less worse with 100% infill

>>1941536
>100%
damn! what was it before? what does the author recommend?

>>1941536
I need a larger key and wrench to undo the printer's tensioner bolts, both of which didn't come with the printer. FUCK.

If anybody else wanna try, be sure to have on hand a 5mm Allen key and a 13mm wrench. Tragicomically, I have one multitool, with pliers and allen heads, of which I can only use one at a time.
>>1941544
>>100%
>damn!
Damn. At least it works.
>what was it before?
20%
>what does the author recommend?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3068872
>Infill:
>Higher for screw.stl

>>1941549