/diy/ - Do It Yourself

1st for adding Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k to the OP

>Had problems with the Chiron leveling probe
>Leveled manually for weeks
>Recently can't get the level perfectly down
>Decide fuck it, I'll plug the probe in and fix the bad values manually
>Plug the probe in the same way as before, when it was failing
>Activate it
>It levels perfectly
>mfw
>mfw I have no face

>>1934164
>It looks like ass, anon
>Lackluster Results Edition
yes.png

>>1934299
>my phone holder made it to the OP
Thanks :3

>>1934089
>It may be more time efficient to get some decent deburring and post processing tools.
Indeed, I just gave it a couple of scrapes with the spatula and it was good enough

>>1934319
Make it thicker (1.5-2x), wall count 2, infill 25% cubic and use filament so infill it is somewhat visible
It will look great, print fast with less material and won't be so flimsy.

>>1934451
>Make it thicker (1.5-2x)
>wall count 2, infill 25%
Pic attached looks [ T H I C C ]
>cubic
I'm more of a gyroid man
>use filament so infill it is somewhat visible
I only have PLA, black and white
>It will look great
TBD, currently printing a Wednesday Boi, but the thiccness sounds pretty in the CAD and slicer
>print fast with less material
Not quite; previously it printed only three walls and was quite fast but
>and won't be so flimsy.
Definitively

>>1934488
>currently printing a Wednesday Boi
It is printed, my dudes

>>1934488
The thiccness looks comfy irl too so far

Engineering

>try to remove nozzle
>chinesium nozzle breaks inside hotend
Great, now what? Drill out the rest and hope I don't kill the hotend?

>>1934546
The thumbnail looked like it was a forge and maybe you had printed a mold or something. Still very noice. Do you have desiccant in there?

>>1934554
Pic of how borken is the nozzle?
Maybe a screw extractor?

>>1934568
Broken right at the start of the threads.

>>1934515
>>1933946
Whodathunk, teaching the chink to wipe is starting to work

>>1934573
Desu, get a screw extractor and try that first instead of drilling

>>1934577
Ok, will try that tomorrow.

>>1934554
>>1934573
First remove the heatbreak, then come in with a tap and a hammer while the thing is heated, you should be able to remove it without any trouble since it isn't pressed against anything.

what board am i supposed to use to upgrade an ender 3? i bought an official board upgrade for one machine but i heard here later about one that's cheaper and better

>>1934501
Wednesday it is.

Got a printer for free and I've been working on getting it fixed up. One of the few things left is the extruder slipping. I've adjusted tension up and down and it still clicks. I increased the stepper motor driver board voltage a bit (from ~0.7V to 1V) and it seemed to decrease the frequency of the slipping a little but its still happening.

Thoughts? It's not a dual gear, just the single with an idler wheel.

>>1934648
What speed are you printing at, and what temperature?
Providing there isn't a blockage or jam that's usually caused by printing too fast or running too low of a temp. Increase by 15/20C and see if it still occurs.
Also make sure you're using the right temp for your plastic, eg if you're using PLA temps for petg.

>>1934648
>check if the filament snags on its way to the extruder, and while you're at it install holders or upgrade to reverse bowden
>change the bowden tube, and while you're at it upgrade to capricorn
>check if the teeth are worn, and while you're at it upgrade to dual gear
>check if the heater is clogged, and while you're at it upgrade to all-metal

Can anyone suggest a paint-on non slip coating for PLA?

>>1934648
Most of the time clicking means its a clogged nozzle. Try doing some cold pulls.

>>1934653
print speed 60mm/s
temp at 190 C. I started out higher around 205 but had to turn it down because I kept getting clogs from the PLA softening before it got to nozzle. Happy to try higher temp if theres a way to avoid that

>>1934654
I've removed the bowden from hotend side and filament has no problem moving through bowden. Just replaced the bowden as well.
>check if the teeth are worn, and while you're at it upgrade to dual gear
Teeth look clean but don't have a good reference for what should look like.
dual gear extruder is what I'm thinking next - worthwhile upgrade?
>check if the heater is clogged, and while you're at it upgrade to all-metal
I've taken the extruder apart a few times to clear jams and don't see any PTFE lining like I've seen on pictures elsewhere. Looks to be all metal

>>1934661
Sounds like a bit of a shitty heat-block if it's softening up that much. Try increase by 5C increments to see if that changes anything.

How would I address this disconnect between the model and predicted print? I don't think that nose is going to work and the support is too far away.

>>1934668
so you think most likely case is too low of a temp? I'll try a print tonight at 195. Could a dual gear extruder help?

>>1934677
How long is the tip of the first layer of that cantilever (((nose)))? If it's too far away, try adding a support by hand

>>1934683
If it's clicking dual gear won't help.

>>1934696
hmm. I increased the temp and it's still clicking. Is the stepper motor just garbage? What else can I try?

>>1934703
Reduce your speed to 45/50 maybe.

>>1934714
so I kept that test print running and the clicking seems to be significantly reduced with the 5 degree temp increase. It was more prevalent at the start of the build but for the past 20 minutes I've maybe heard it click maybe 3 times. Seems like the temp was a bit low? Was it clicking more at the start because the PLA wasn't flowing as well yet you think? Will try reducing speed too next time.

>>1934720
What brand of plastic are you using? It either sounds like you have a shitty heat-break or shitty filament.

>>1934724
Hatchbox

>>1934727
So not shit filament then, what printer is it?

>>1934731
its an FLSun Cube. Dont think they sell them anymore.

>>1934501
Not the best dildo print I have seen

>>1934657
What kind of non slip?
You could always use a polyurethane/sand mixture

>>1934727
from Scamazon?

>>1934567
I do, I couldn’t find any proper pouches though so the current solution is a cup of DampRid from Home Depot.

>>1934567
>>1934795

Addendum: I also plan to line the inside of the bucket with foil to trap more heat inside and reduce the Halloween lampshade action.

>>1934774
It's more of a vibe bullet really

>>1934683
I'm printing PLA at 210, haven't had the extruder skip yet. How hot are you willing to go?

>>1934812
How do you print over 200? I got major stringing when I tried it.

>>1934814
>How do you print over 200?
A tad on the shitty side but manageable
>I got major stringing when I tried it
So did I until I used a fan shroud to cool the filament faster, and enabled coasting (>>1933946) and 3mm of outside wall wiping. (>>1934576) I think I still need to add more wiping. But it's not impossible to deal with.

>>1934815
Cool thanks, I think I'll try to build a hero me next.

>>1934776
indeed
>>1934812
at 205 my PLA softened too much in the hotend and got clogged

>>1934817
We're most probably using different PLA's. Maybe it's that with different additives, or maybe different thermistor calibration so your 210 isn't my 210. You could try the other stuff mentioned then.

>>1934795
Noice
>>1934798
>trap more heat inside
Real noice
>reduce the Halloween lampshade action
Real noicen't; it looks cool, please wait until November

Some weird shit started happening with my Ender 3. I leveled the bed after auto homing it and it looks fine, but when it goes to print the extruder is much higher than what I leveled it at.

>>1934825
Spooktober Chinkese shenanigans. Or a too high z-offset.

>>1934604
anyone?

>>1934661
Try doing hot pulls and cold pulls and seeing if you pull out dirt. If so, repeat until you don't.

>>1934828
Me too anon, me too

>>1934827
>Or a too high z-offset.
How could that happen?

Really need to unfuck my retractions, string like a bitch, but this works pretty nice

>>1934860
Marked improvement.

>>1934863
I blame woodfill and shitty PLA, I'm running a .3 nozzle with Plasty Mladeč PLA. Night and fucking day, still need to fix up me retractions, I think the distance needs some increasing.

>>1934828
>>1934834
SKR mini
you'll have to pay about $30 for it, I got mine for $5.
Steppers become nearly silent, you can use auto bed leveling.

>>1934604
depends on which needs you want to cover
if for a simple upgrade you can take >>1934868
if you want to to get a 2nd extruder, wifi connectivity and upgradeable stepper drivers somewhere in the future, get a skr v1.4/turbo
if you want to be a bit more excessive than that get a lerdge-k board, they come with a 165mhz chip, 6 stepper drivers and anything else you can think of
>>1934554
was the hotend hot or cold when you tried to remove it?
>>1934501
the skirt looks a bit squished as in nozzle too close to the bed
>>1934648
is the hotend-fan still going strong?
might be a combination of the cooler going out causing heatcreep and the filament printing on a too low temperature causing backpressure on the extruder

>>1934595
Managed to remove the cunt by hammering in a flathead bit. Pic related is the result.
Anyways, thanks for the help.

>>1934825
I got it. The eccentric nuts keep coming loose after a couple prints. Any way to fix it?

I'm having funky stringing where I get along with smooth hairs these flakes. Will post pic later, but what do I need to push up? Distance or speed?

>>1934946
Increased retraction distance and now I'm tweaking speed, this one was before any adjustments.

Man, fuck abs.

>>1934997
And now you know why people use enclosures for abs

>>1934903
Try checking the screws holding the plates that hold the eccentric nuts, if those are loose no matter how you tighten the nuts the whole assembly is going to move.

>>1935002
The one on the right was printed in a enclosure.

>>1935009
Then you didn't print hot enough or the enclosure loses air too quickly. Plug up some obvious holes and run the preheat longer to climatize the enclosure better.

>>1934997
bruh just crank that heated bed up

>>1934946
>>1934950
Try coasting, wiping, and a part fan shroud

>>1934899
Oof, I hope you gave that hotend some aftercare after that pounding

>>1934884
>the skirt looks a bit squished as in nozzle too close to the bed
Desu, it shows with smoler layer heights, and feels like it's wiping the first layer onto the bed instead of depositing it. I'm not keen on calibrating the bed lower; it seems to help with bed adhesion. I know the proper way would be to adjust it lower and use the correct z-offset, or get a BLTouch.

>>1934997
>fuck abs
No, use silicone for that with a PLA mold for that.
Jokes aside, try using a draft shield

Doing a cosmetic piece for once (Halloween) and I'm running into a problem with post processing. I don't want to sand this down anymore in fear of losing detail, also lazy, so I'll need to fill in the valleys seen here; only a couple layers wide and a few thou deep. I was thinking about using wood filler/wood putty and sanding even, but wanted to run it by you guys to see if you've had better results with another method.

>>1934950
Holy shit that's bad

What is your setup

>>1934884
>was the hotend hot or cold when you tried to remove it?
200C

>>1935050
I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the penetrant oil I used, but that's about it.
The business ends are in good shape so I don't see what I could have done besides maybe a bit of thermal paste on the heatsink.

>>1934689
The whole width is about 45mm, but i'm not entirely sure how long the nose itself is. I might just add that support by hand as you suggested.

>>1934884
>was the hotend hot or cold when you tried to remove it?
200C
I did not heat the socket I used though.

>>1935050
I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the penetrant oil I used, but that's about it.
The business ends are in good shape so I don't see what I could have done besides maybe a bit of thermal paste on the heatsink.

>>1934884
>BigTreeTech
>>1934884
>Lerdge

Are there any options to easily de-chinkify an Ender instead? It can be a loose definition of "easily".

>>1935065
Anycubic Chiron. Managed to cut stringing dramatically and print quality looks miles better already

>>1935124
Printing the sunken benchie as a test, but already the corals look miles better. Like, I couldn't get that smooth of a surface finish even if I tried.

>>1934775
>What kind of non slip?
Just something simple to keep coasters and tool holders from sliding around.

Does Ender 3 v2 now come with a 32 bit board and silent steppers? I can't find conclusive information...

>>1935117
you could probably take a rpi and a stepper-driver shield, look up reprap
what goal are you reaching for by dechinkifying your printer?
>>1935177
silent steppers yes but i dont know if they have a version with the old 8-bit board too

>>1935179
>what goal are you reaching for by dechinkifying your printer?
I'd like to have as little software designed under the yoke of the Communist Party of China as possible. The stock hardware with a nonchink slicer is passable, but if I'm going to add something that I'd connect to to my network I'd prefer to go with a nonchink option.

>>1935179
>silent steppers yes but i dont know if they have a version with the old 8-bit board too
In one review dude showed v2 with a 32 bit board and silent steppers. in another review I saw a v2 with an 8bit board and silent steppers.
I'm thoroughly confused.

>>1935192
Seems odd that they would put an old board in a v2. Allegedly they all come with the 32-bit board now from the factory but who knows when the old stock is cleared.

What causes these little warts when printing PLA? Not my print.... but I've seen this stuff in a bunch of videos?

Exporting all my 50 or so fusion projects
lets see how long this takes

Do 3D printer kits exist? I'd like to buy something like Ender's frame and enclosure, belts, stepper motors but without much else.
I'd like to get an SKR Mini E3, direct drive extruder and a better print bed.
If I buy Ender 3 and then gut it, I feel like I'm throwing a lot of money on shit I don't want.
I've been looking at sourcing all the parts separately but that's way more expensive than an Ender 3.
So, any advice? Any cheap 3D printer kits that don't come with extra shit?

>>1935209
The Ender 3 is pretty cheap, you're not losing anything.
What do you want to improve? A v-roller printer will always be just as good as a v-roller printer.

>>1935209
Ender doesn't have an enclosure. Anyways, if you want to buy the basics instead, you might want to go for an Anet A6/A8 and gut those instead, it's slightly cheaper. You aren't throwing money away on either it of an Ender 3, you are after all paying less than if you would source all components on their own. Also this >>1935213, make a clear goal before you start buying.

>>1935200
Try retraction settings, had similar issues and they've disappeared mostly after I tuned mine.

>>1935213
>The Ender 3 is pretty cheap, you're not losing anything.
But I am when I'm not gonna use its extruder, print bed and the board.
>What do you want to improve?
see my original post...
>SKR Mini E3, direct drive extruder and a better print bed
>>1935214
>enclosure
I mean all the sheet metal enclosures that go on a frame. Not sure what the engineering term for all that trim is.
If I buy a bare frame alone (pic related), I'm not sure where to buy the LCD enclosure and all other parts to make it look decent.

>>1935223
you can get ender extender kits which are basically just frame parts, bigger bed and some extension parts to go along with it, a 400x400x500 kit is $239
>>1935185
you could look into the einsy boards they use in prusa printers, they may be EU made
otherwise https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-controller-boards/

>>1935223
You are supposed to print the parts after making the printer functional first

>>1935233
>you can get ender extender kits which are basically just frame parts, bigger bed and some extension parts to go along with it, a 400x400x500 kit is $239
They still don't come with a z-axis screw and a bunch fo other parts.
>>1935235
That's true but I'm worried about metal parts.

Here's another idea... what about using one of the super-cheap Anycubic printers as a base and gutting one of them out and adding a better hotend, 32 bit board and a heated bed?
They're like 1/2 the price of Ender 3.

>>1935233
>you could look into the einsy boards they use in prusa printers, they may be EU made
Noice, thanks!

I just found the joy of printing at high speeds and I want to go even faster.
Now I'm printing close to 100mm/s and I noticed the steppers get quite hot, almost too hot to keep my hand on them. Is it worth trying to install heatsinks on them or do they handle heat just fine?

>>1935286
Steppers will not overheat unless placed in a heated chamber.

>>1935064
Wood putty, sanding and then a quick spray paint works really well for that.

>>1935286
https://youtu.be/9D-QD_HIfjA

>>1935177
I would imagine so, I bought my pro (not v2) and it came with a 32-bit board but same old loud ass drivers and this was maybe 3 months ago. In all honesty I replaced the stock board with an SKR 2.0 within like the second week and it was hands down the best decision I made as far as enabled features and nearly silent steppers are concerned.

>>1935128
AK annon here, posted retraction tests before and my fail was in the op. Proud to say I've got the stringing mostly down! Printed without any support!

Are linear rails worth it on an ender 3? it's just getting old with these v-rollers fuzzing up every couple days even when I try to get them as loose as possible

>>1935343
>I replaced the stock board with an SKR 2.0 within like the second week and it was hands down the best decision I made as far as enabled features and nearly silent steppers are concerned.
So bud, why the fuck did you then waste money on the Pro version?

>>1935286
>printing at high speeds and I want to go even faster.
Teach me how to go fast

>>1935351
I'm also looking into this. I figure replacing the wheels overtime will eventually pay for a rail kit

Alright there’s a $30 aud or so price diff between the Ender 3 and 3 Pro. Is the 3 better with a ~$30 upgrade? Or the 3 pro better value here?

>>1935366
Get the pro

>>1935354
>Teach me how to go fast
That's my line bro.
From what I can gather you need a good extruder and belts.
I have a mostly stock E3 Pro and it can do 100mm/s, but only sometimes. Other times the extruder just slips. I suppose I need to switch to direct drive to go faster.
I'm also waiting for the upgrade belt tensioners to arrive from china, but it feels like pic related is going on.

>>1935353
>4040 y axis and associated bed frame
>Non ching von chongerson psu (arguably most important)
>non stupid fan location for board
>Mag mat
>Literally $30 more than a non pro at the time
There was absolutely no reason not to, the name brand power supply alone is worth more than double the price difference between a pro and non pro. also it wasn't expecting a 32-bit board, as far as I was aware they were still 8-bit period but who gives a fuck one way or the other because it didn't have silent steppers and fuck all that bootloader bullshit.

>>1935366
See >>1935404

Alright ordered the 3 Pro

So I’m ordering my first filament. Looks like I don’t want ABS, don’t want PETG since it’s hygroscopic and won’t take to being left out. So I guess it comes down to PLA vs PLA+?

Are there others I should consider?

>>1935564
Not unless the thing you're making absolutely can't be made with PLA

>>1935564
Just do plain pla and learn the ropes before you start going balls to the wall

what is wrong here? It looks like shit
0.4nozzle 0.25 layer height. 40mm/s. tried with and without cooling (two 40mm fans, plenty of cooling)
PLA - 195c 1.65mm set in slicer, filament is more like 1.70mm in real life
Prusa slicer
pls help

>>1935614
Check that your belts are tight.

>>1935614
looks all sorts of wrong
the top looks like its printed too cold, maybe raise temps to 200+
>1.65mm
don't you mean 1.75mm? or are you using homemade pla?
>two 40mm fans
are they axial or radial?

>>1935355
I bought a Y axis rail kit fuck adjusting those wheels

>>1935614
Could be a classic case of totally messed up slicer settings

>lh 0.25
Meh, go with 0.2 first. I also don't know what the microsteps of your Z-axis are. It often is a multiple of 0.04 so it goes 0.2 0.24 0.28 etc

>PLA 195°C
Is this the temp which the filament manufacturer specified? If not, change it to whatever the filament manufacturer specified.

>PLA 1.65mm
Dude, never change the nominal 1.75mm. If you have under/over extrusion simply adjust the flow a little. I'm using all kinds of filaments and I almost never do this.

>more like 1.70mm in real life
I highly doubt that you have a measuring process to be able to tell the exact diameter. Tip: holding a caliper to the filament doesn't do it

>Prusa slicer, two fans
If its a prusa, why did you mess with the hotend fans?

My suggestion:
Use a virgin installation of your slicer and adjust the virgin PLA profile only in the nozzle temp. Then try printig it.

>notice extruder skipping when feeding filament off my custom made broomstick filament shelf
>buy dual gear extruder upgrade
>problem gone
>one day feed the filament wrong into the roller guide end it gets stuck between roller and printed plastic thingy
>hear rattling from the printer after some time
>oh shit. jpeg pause and feed the fil correctly
>see it has ground a notch into my filamend guide
>litophane print is still okay no underextrusion
>sadly unable to print soft tpu with this extruder
that torgue tho

>>1935642
>notice extruder skipping when feeding filament off my custom made broomstick filament shelf
I highly doubt that the friction of the spool holder could affection extruder skipping. Its torque is neglible compared to the hotend force.

>see it has ground a notch into my filamend guide
Here we go. Always feed at a straight line into the extruder motor. Any guides will grind away quickly.

>install BLtouch, calibrate it
>print a few things with the creality slicer, shit seems to be working just fine
>switch to Cura because apparently it's the superior choice
>printer now prints in the air in some spots while in others the nozzle crashes into the bed
What the fuck?
The auto bed leveling does seem to do something because when X or Y moves Z also moves a little, but it doesn't seem to actually account for bed tilt correctly.

>>1935664
did you include M420 S1 in your start-gcode?

>>1935668
No, only G29.
Same goes for the Creality slicer though and that never caused issues.

>>1935669
g29 didnt work for me either in cura, had the same problems
i did a 7x7 g29, saved it and am using m420 s1 ever since, fixed my problems

>>1935671
Okay, I'll try that.
Do you need to add M420 S1 before or after the G29?

>>1935645
>I highly doubt that the friction of the spool holder could affection extruder skipping
the skipping part was a bit exaggerated. But there was a noticable difference. I extruded 100mm off the shelf and directly off the stock spool holder and had about 10% of underextrusion on my shelf with the stock extruder. the new dual gear can now pull 100% on both the stock holder and my filament shelf. I guess friction does matter especially when you have a shitty extruder.

>>1935674
instead of the g29
you probe it once, save it once and use the stored data until you run into problems in a month or so

>>1935678
I only probe a 4*4 so I can afford to do it before each print.
Also I'm still tinkering a lot with the machine so saving a probing and using it multiple times would not be a smart choice.

3D printing is great. Foreskin too tight? Bang! foreskin stretcher.

>>1935638
>>1935620
It's not a prusa, some super modded Anat a8 with a bigger bed, it's two 40mm axial fan. I lowered the default layer height because I thought it maybe was that that fucked with my layers but that didn't work.
Except for the layer height and speed/acceleration, it's pretty much stock. But I'll try what you said, start fresh and just lower the speeds so man printer can handle it

>>1935676
Ok, but how dows the stock spool holder have different friction than the shelf? That doesn't make sense to me.
My setup pic rel

>>1935697
>Foreskin too tight?
what
>Bang! foreskin stretcher
what

>>1935698
>axial fans
try putting a bowl of water under your hotend with cooling on and check if the airflow leaves a visible dent in the water surface. so far my experience with axials was that they only produce noise but no cooling effect
>>1935697
what's next? a dickcheese grate?

>>1935697
I really hope this makes it to the next OP, along with caption

>>1935698
>super modded
Could be the issue. You now have a machine that prints factors worse than stock.

>It's not a prusa
Then just be a normal person and use Cura, not PrusaSlicer

> it's two 40mm axial fan
Congratulations on increasing your hotend mass, which worsens jerk behaviour and could produce artifacts during fast printing. Did you have part cooling issues or why did you do that?

>just lower the speeds
Only go above 35mm/s when you are able to produce good prints at 35mm/s. You barely reduce print time overall anyways because of jerks. Going fast is for perfectly adjusted printers.

>>1935697
Is this on Thingie? It’s too ridiculous not to print one

>>1935671
Still doing that shit.
I ended up having to level it by hand while it was printing the brim.
Could it be the probe offsets are out of whack? I had to remove the probe to clean the heatsink on the hotend, could it be that the offsets have somehow changed?

>>1935720
did you adjust the -z offset after that? even 0.01mm deviation make a noticable difference for me

Well well well.

My laziness has finally caught up to me.
When I designed this printer I was first planning on using titan extruders so when I got my hemera I didn't have a mount for it yet. So I decided to just print it out of some resin first to replace as soon as it was printing.

That was a couple of months ago and I just kept stalling printing a new mount because this one was working just fine.

I'm now running a 26 hours print with 1mm nozzle and I noticed a lot of cracks.
I really hope that it doesn't break because of it does I'm going to need to make a resin one first.

So what’s the cheapest beginners PLA to order online in Australia?

>>1935737
I use 3dfillies but only because I also live in VIC so delivery is super quick. Prints really well.

>>1935725
Yes, but only the Z offset. I thought the others should not change so I did not adjust those too.
Also now that I've printed a bit I can see material gathering above the current layer and into the holes.
I set the flow to 90% but it was not any better after that.

>>1935731
Left side looks like it will fail soon

>>1935762
All of it is going to fail soon....

Which flexible material would have the most grip for RC tires? Do I want stretchy or non stretchy?

>>1935763
I meant much sooner than the other cracks. You don’t even need to print, the belt tension only will be enough. I give a couple hours.

>>1935769
Ninjaflex printing with knobbly off road tires, genuine rubber tires for on-road, no printing will be good enough for on-road use

>>1935770
I think it's been like this for a couple of days.
I'm truly amazed how well it has held up.

>>1935731
>that material thickness next to the screw
dude...

>>1935759
Never mind, I found the problem.
The Z axis rollers were too tight so the gantry tilted while going up and down. I loosened them up and now it has no issues keeping the nozzle at the correct height.

>>1935576
>>1935568

Black pla seems to be out of stock so I’m looking at

>>1935834
It was meant to be temporary.

>>1935895
Not an excuse, fami

How do you print consistently with a really crap filament?
We have extruded a lot of filament for research but they are garbage. Diameter fluctuates between 1.4 - 1.9 mm and is an ellipse basically. The printer is proprietary so its not possible to add a diameter sensor. Are we just out of options?

>>1935951
>How do you print consistently with a really crap filament?
You don't.

If you're doing research, you're probably mostly interested in printing test samples or proving printability in a small batch. Try and get your filament extrusion process down to 0.1mm in variation, that should solve most of the problems. If not possible, overextrusion is preferably, so set your slicing to appear as if your filament diameter is low (1.4mm in your case). You'll get massive overextrusion, but at least it might print.

>>1935717
This is the first version, it's a bit small, I think the groove needs to be deeper so it doesn't slipsout, but it seems to work ok.
Maybe I'll add a screw to regulate the force.
anonfiles dot com slash X3RdKai1p0 slash fs_stl
I've been having a bit of trouble getting the turtle head out of the shell for a while now, so Imma try this and report back with the results.

>>1935956
We have problem with like 10% of the type of stuff we extrude. Sometimes cant even print a dog bone.

Oops meant I’m getting my first filament and black pla is out of stock so I’m thinking fuck it and just get black pla+

>>1935988
Or just get another color.
I recommend white because it does not smell at all. Other colors may smell a little.

>>1935951
If you could come up with a machine that could shave the profile uniform and round you can tell your slicer you're using that size filament and it will compensate. Or melt and re extrude it since it is a thermoplastic after all (I'm assuming).

>>1936021
Racist

>>1936021
Nobody’s explained what’s wrong with pla+ yet

>>1935697
Does it work well with the dragon dildos?

>>1936041
It's a foreskin stretcher.


So maybe if you printed a foreskin in Ninjaflex or something.

>>1936048
>So maybe if you printed a foreskin in Ninjaflex or something.
I did

>got an all-metal hotend
>trying to transfer heating element and thermistor
>thermistor stuck, also mangled now
>have to wait for new parts to arrive
>printer down in the meantime
fug I want to print moar

>>1935951
Buy the device my company is developing which checks filament quality and tells the printer how to compensate for it when we release it in a couple of years :DDDD

but for real, you really don't, unless you're hand-adjusting the filament diameter based on what you measure or overextrude based on the minimum diameter you measure. You might find this PDF helpful, I use it all the time to dial in my extrusion rate based on the filaments I have:

https://reprap.org/forum/file.php?1,file=93577,filename=Filament_Diameter_Compensation.pdf

A variation of 1.4-1.9mm is around 1.3mm^2 in area, which is pretty significant considering your nominal 1.75mm filament is 2.41mm^2. Elliptical filament shouldn't matter too much unless it's really bad. Seconding what >>1935956 said.

>>1936029
>shave the profile uniform and round
Yeah, that's not happening, it'd have to be ridiculously complex/expensive

>>1936065
I have made my own filament sensor for my printer. Also i have bought one that uses optical measurement. None of these worked to my liking, i was never able to reach close to 100% density. I could print pretty boats but the specimens had a couple of % porosity in them.

On my own printer >>1935956 worked. In the end what i did is to lower the extruder motor current so it would skip when it was overextruding, and i upped the extrusion ratio to very high. This worked with medium to large filament, but small filaments let back flow of molten material to go up in the heat break ending in clogs.

Now we have to use a god fucking know whos brand of printer with proprietary shit all over it, so this wont work sadly. Neither would your device, which i would gladly get if i could integrate it into the printer.

>You might find this PDF helpful
We have 0.2 difference in diameters because of the ellipse shape. I made a similar cheat sheet but for 2 measured variable, like a times table.

>>1936029
>shave
Would work with oversize filament but not small ones. Maybe we should make large filaments only. But i dont know how you would make such machine reliable. A roller would work better that would squish the filament to the right size. Both of these are just time sinks with doubtful outcome.
>Or melt and re extrude
Would extruding a filament form a PTFE tube work? Like not letting the filament cool in a bath but in a PTFE tube in a bath? And pulling from that tube.


Thank your for your tips anyway

>>1936062
You just print them like that and leave it? No clean up or post work?

>>1936036
I think the issue with PLA+ is that the formula isn't standardized so every company's recipe for PLA+ is always different.

>>1936088
The metal slug is still pretty rough off the plate, but the others are cleaned up more. Nothing fancy like sanding on any of them though.

give it to me straight /3dpg/... Ender 3D v2 vs Pro. Which is a better deal? Can't decide... don't have enough knowledge to make a decision.

And if it's Pro, does Pro need any upgrades?
Thanks!

>>1934299
sorry im late to the party guys, only just got my first 3d printer (resin) a few days ago. its a whole new world now.
ive caught the bug that's for sure and am now looking to get a PLA so I can print 'big' things.
my main contender is the Anycubic Chiron, anyone got any experience with these and could advise if they are any good?
the other option is the Creality CR-10 v3 but im on the fence as ive never used either

>>1936219
if you don't know enough to make this decision, do not be an absolute retard and "upgrade" your machine until you learn it.

>>1936279
Is that a Halo index?

>>1936290
indeed it is

>>1936286
im not 'upgrading' anything?
im looking into getting a PLA type of 3d printer and wanted some advice from people who have first hand experience with that type of machine

Has anyone done any electroplating? How well does it turn out?

Does anyone have any antisemitic prints? Asking for a friend.

>>1936332
No, but I use the oven frequently.

>>1936332

>>1936344
I'm almost tempted to get some but I know from experience that they use black light to make it glow like that. IRL it's very faint.

>>1935716
>>1935713
I found my problem with the bad print quality, it was the extruder gear that had slipped in on the motor axel and was just partially engaged on the filament, pulled it out and screwed it and glued it in place. It looked good from the outside but when I looked deeper I saw it.

I did have part cooling issues before when I used a radial fan, picked up a new X axis carriage and decided to just go with the two fan design so I wouldn't have to change it again.

>>1936344
>>1936346
what's the point of these kind of filaments? you can just prime and paint it after and get much better results

i have a diy corexy printer. the printed parts i used previously were a bit janky, because i printed them on my old diy printer, which was a bit shitty (main problem was that z-axis was not perpendicular to the table). anyways, i reprinted all the parts and reassembled the printer.
i threw out the old timing belt and bought a new cheap belt. after printing a couple of small test parts, the belt actually stretched around the areas where motor pulleys are located. i noticed that the motors got quite hot, so i lowered motor current and lowered the tension on the belts, because i thought the belt was melting.
i changed the belt to local sourced "high quality" (thats what they say) rubber with metal string reinforcement. the same problem happened, maybe after 5 prints this time.
i then changed motor pulleys to new ones, even though the old ones seemed ok. same shit happened.
i then lowered the belt tensions so much, that my carriage was all wobbly. after 10 or so prints the bets actually stretched again.
i now order "high quality" expensive belts from ali (rubber, metal reinforcement, nylon mesh on teeth). are these gonna help me at all? is there any other problem that might be causing belt stretch besides super shitty quality belts? why do the stretch only around motor pulleys?

>>1936332
3d print some jews so you can have your own miniature holocaust at home.

>>1935958
Doesn't it hurt? I'm up for a snip at this point so maybe I'll try this first. Please do report back.

>>1936352

Pic of the printer ?
What material did you print your parts with?
I used to have this problem and it turned out the parts were kind of melting causing the belt tension to change.

I have now printed everything out of pla+ and all my problems are gone.

You could also add some coolers to your motors.

>>1936392
everything is printed from petg.
the printer is a heavily modified blv cube (pic rel). im not home atm and dont have any pics of my printer.
the parts are not melting. i reassembled my printer 6 times the past few weeks, there were no melting marks. also, like i mentioned, i reduced the motor current, added heatsinks on motors and reduced belt tension, so now the motors are quite cool while printing.
i found out that using steel reinforced belts require large pulleys. i have 16t pulleys on motors and 10mm idlers. i guess the problem was these super tight bending radii causing the belt to quickly fail due to fatigue. ill try buying a cheap rubber belt locally while i wait for gates' belts from ali.

>>1936392
I suggest anon to print the parts out of greentec pro, kerps the integrity up to 160C

https://phys.org/news/2020-10-physicists-d-microboat.amp

Can we get THIS printer?
>Full test print boat at 30 micrometer size
>Whole boat literally the size of a single layer on my current printer

>>1936399
I'm reprinting everything out of pekk and annealing it at my work.

>>1936420
So my ender 3 pro is on the way and I ordered white PLA. After reading up on materials PLA seems just right for most of the stuff I wanna do. But looks like I also want to get into polycarbonate. Do I need to upgrade anything on this printer for PC?

>>1936423
you wont be printing pc with ender3

>>1936427
This. The Ender 3 is not a popular printer, it’s very obscure and thus there are no compatible after market upgrades for it, especially hotends.

>>1936423
all metal hotend

>>1936429
you need all metal hot end, a heated enclosure, plus other misc stuff.
by the time you have a printer capable of reliably printing pc, it wont even resemble ender 3

can anyone help, the wall thickness is too thin on the embossing it broke on the first shot. how do I remove it on 123D?

>>1936391
It doesn't have enough force to hurt, I measured it around 200-400 grams. That's why I've made a second version with a screw to add more tension as needed, I also made the ring and the groove a bit larger, so the foreskin doesn't slips down, which was the problem with the first version.
Tbh my problem isn't too bad, I can pull it back all the way but my penor is big and it takes around 2 minutes of gentle massaging and not so gentle tugging, it gets a bit painful when fucking without a condom.
I've seen ring kits with progressively larger sizes, maybe that works better since you can wear them comfortably for longer, idk. Depends on how bad your case it.

>>1936062
samus is nice

>>1936332
I kind of want to make a happy merchant, but I'm too lazy to.

I am shopping around for my first printer but I am not sure what all is out there so I figure it would be good to run this by you guys.

What I am looking for is
>fully enclosed
>can print nylon out of the box (without additional modifications)
>is relatively simply set up and use is a plus
>preferably ~$1000 or less
>though max budget is ~$2000

Some of the printers I have been thinking about are FlashForge Creator Max and Flashforge Dreamer but there are probably better options that fit what I am looking for that I don't know about.

>>1936460
Not that dude but why would you print PC instead of ABS or nylon?

>>1936550
>>can print nylon out of the box (without additional modifications)
>>preferably ~$1000 or less

modded ender 3

>>is relatively simply set up and use is a plus
don't be retarded is rule #1 of 3d printers

I stopped using my resin printer a few months back because everyone of my prints failed eventhough I didnt change any settings or resin. Can someone explain what I need to do to trouble shoot. Anycubic photon. esun bio resin grey giving me the blues.

>>1936468
Just to understand the use case, are you treating phimosis or something or is it a kink?

>>1936600
describe the failures, ideally with pics. Is your resin just sitting in the tank going bad?

>>1936550
>>can print nylon out of the box (without additional modifications)
>>preferably ~$1000 or less
Pretty much not happening

>FlashForge
If their Creator Pro is anything to go by, stay the fuck away from them, it's a nightmare to service and build quality is atrocious (I had to phase out all three of the ones my company used due to various problems with them)

>>1936585
>without additional modifications
>modded ender 3
Really, anon?

>>1936318
Not yet, but I plan on doing it in the future. Picked up a cheap air brush for applying conductive paint.

>>1936423
Polycarbonates have REALLY toxic fumes, FYI.

>>1936634
Not him, but also have a very big dick and foreskin was a big problem for me. My parents made it very clear when I was a kid that unless I stretched it out, they'd have to get it snipped. As you can imagine, that was more than enough to motivate me. Now that I'm an adult, there's basically no slack when it's fully erect.

>>1936634
Both

>>1936461
Measure it and redesign it in OpenSCAD like a man

Anyone have some recommendations for a cheap yet good PLA filament? I don't want to spend lots of money on branded, expensive, stuff. Researching this online is super-hard due to massive amounts of shilling that goes on.
Anyone have some opinions on what's good?

>>1936700
ive been using sunlu on amazon since i got my printer and i have no complaints.

>>1936634
First one. I'm not from the US nor have a religious family, so I did not get the snibeti snab. I'm in a similar situation to >>1936657, it hurts if you don't give it time to stretch. Maybe I'll also buy some corticosteroid cream. I did 20 minutes today, version 2 worked better, although there could be room for improvement.
It think it won't take long to get better since I can pull it down, it's just too tight and no slack.

>>1934299
question-
what extras do I need to get into FDM printing?
-printer, filament, acetone for smoothing.
is there anything else that I will need to buy, ive only ever used resin printers so Im unsure

>>1936585
>>1936649
So you are really saying that there is no enclosed printer within even my max budget that can print nylon out of the box without modification?
That sounds fishy to me.

>>1936709
Acetone is for ABS, not PLA.
Get a nice set of hand files, sanding equipment, acrylic spray paints, some isopropyl alcohol for cleaning the print bed, stuff like that.
I use a flashlight a lot to see the fine details while it's printing (especially for the first layer).

>>1936717
Most affordable 3D printers uses polymer pretty extensively in their construction.
Now imagine what happens to these parts when they're in a heated chamber for long periods of time while the machine is running, applying stress to them.
If you want to print stuff like polycarbonates, then it's going to cost more to set up.
Honestly, PLA has gotten so good over the last few years that you won't need it in most cases.

>>1936721
I will add it to the list, thank you very much

>>1936332
make a happy merchant lithoplane.

http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/

>>1936722
Ok
I said nothing about printing polycarbanate but whatever.
Then how high do I need to bump up my budget to print nylon?
$3000?
$5000?
$8000?

>>1936717

The patent that kept anyone other than Stratasys from selling printers with an enclosed build chamber expired relatively recently. As such, they're still something of a niche feature that hasn't worked its way down to the cheaper printers. Truth be told, I haven't been shopping for a new printer in a while, but it wouldn't surprise me to find out there's little or nothing in the sub-$1000 price range that has one.

>>1936729
>I said nothing about printing polycarbanate
>I want an oven that can bake bread
>I said nothing about baking cookies
I don't think you know enough about 3D printing right now to jump straight to nylon for your first printer. If your requirements are being able to print nylon and your solution is to throw a higher budget at it without understanding WHY it costs more, you're not going to have good results.

>>1936709
A nice sharp hobby knife and set of replacement blades (they're like $5/100, don't cheap out on it and make yourself miserable with dull tools).

>>1936729
>nylon
Mea culpa. Got your posts mixed up with another discussion.
Nylon can require up to like 250 Celsius temps.
So you'll need to opt for a printer that doesn't use belts or polymer rollers (which is most of them ATM).
Your best bet for low cost is to built it yourself, which is also not going to be very beginner friendly a project.
Get an Ender 3 or something to get your toes in the water.

Note for me for later, but you may find it interesting too:
CNC Kitchen has tried remelting stuff in powder salt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyAKtS1b3SQ

>>1936420
>pekk
do you mean peek?
it would be cheaper to buy a 3018 cnc with upgrades and mill your parts from alu than getting peek right
>>1936700
my first ever pla was some chinese stuff called "Xingtong Zhi Lian Technology silk-white" i got from amazon, was the best pla i had so far
>>1936729
the enclosure for my e3p with some upgrades is almost done, will try nylon then. i'll happily sell it to you for 3-8k when i succeed :^)

>>1936733
What about the sub-$2000 which is what I stated as my current max budget?
What about above that?
>>1936735
>>1936737
Are you really trying to claim there is nothing that is capable of printing nylon out of the box without extensive modification?
Frankly I don't believe you.

>Get an Ender 3
>which fits absolutely none of your requirements at all
>but you should get it anyway
>because reasons

>>1936744
What are you working on that absolutely can't be made with polymers other than nylon?
Even 3D printed guns do just fine with PLA+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTW7OF4k55Q

You're trying to skip a pretty significant learning curve, Anon.

How do I make money with my 3d printer? I don't use it much and don't feel like selling it right now. How do I make it pay for itself?

>>1936749
Print things for people in exchange for money.

>>1936749
you have to invent something that can be 3d printed that people want. thats about it

>>1936747
>You're trying to skip a pretty significant learning curve
That is just a assumption of yours.
Regardless to complete the projects I need something that match the properties of certain formulations of nylon.
So sooner or later I will need a printer that can print nylon for the functional parts I need.
Why are you insisting there is nothing on the market that can print nylon when that is pretty clearly not the case.

>>1934546
da hell am I looking at?

>>1936753
>>1936755
well, makes sense but where do you guys sell these parts? how much do you charge etc?

>>1936760
It appears to be someone using a homedepo bucket with aluminum foil as a lid as presumably a makeshift drybox for the filament.

>>1936763
depends what it is. ebay, etsy, amazon, gumtree. it all depends on what it is you are printing to sell and its quality, size, marketability ect.

another rout is you can rent out your printing services to people without a printer, stick an add on facebook or something.

you can also do what this guy did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGxotsroCwo
but that requires professional grade equipment, and marketing. not really something for a random with an ender 3 could accomplish

anyone can buy a 3d printer so its a saturated market. aka difficult to make money if you dont have something unique or the ability to print more/larger than anyone else

>>1936747
It is about as difficult and has similar learning with similar problems to printing ABS.
Temperature range is a bit higher and price of the stuff is more but otherwise the learning process and trouble shooting is very similar between materials.

>>1936758
If you're asking these questions, you're very clearly inexperienced with printing.
What are you planning on printing that NEEDS to be nylon?

>>1936749
>Learn about FBA (Jungle Scout)
>Fuck importing from China
>Learn how to use 3D software
>Use 3D printer to prototype a product
>Optional: try to make the product injection mouldable
>File a design patent
>Print a batch of the final product via Shapeways
>Sell product via Amazon for %50 markup
>If your widgets don't sell, you failed at the market research stage, try again

>>1936781
I am done wasting time with you guys.

I am just getting a Qidi Tech X-Max as it has relatively good reviews and demonstrated to be able to print nylon well.

I don't know why I even bothered asking you guys.

>>1936794
Happy to help.

>>1936794
glad you learned your lesson

>After fine tuning a 'Draft' profile, I can't just duplicate it and change the layer height, because the duplicated profile will still have this stupid 'Draft' suffix
I can see why this is from the profiles folder (all the profiles are diffs of the standard files). It might actually make sense if the interface allowed diffing and merging. As it is, to create a 'Normal' profile, I have to start from scratch. a diff merge features were included in the interface.
Is there a slicer with good profile management like a diff feature?

>>1936807
*It would make sense if diff and merge features were included in the interface.

>>1936744
>What about the sub-$2000 which is what I stated as my current max budget?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGTF7QS
Here, have a piece of proprietary garbage.
>when that is pretty clearly not the case.
If you KNOW that's the case, why are you asking US?

>>1936794
Frankly, you're wasting our time if anything with your insistence on out-of-the-box nylon and nebulous requirements why it has to have no modifications on a shoestring budget
>I want something that goes as fast as a Lamborghini but for Ford prices

>>1936794
>muh sekrit projekt
Keep your bullshit secrets, and go nowhere with them.

>>1936827
>Printer linked doesn't even get up to 250 C

It's ok to just say you don't know.
It's clear you don't have a clue what you are talking about when it comes to nylon.

As for the other bullshit you said.
I find that having the correct tools for the job to start with is better then trying to modify inappropriate tools that aren't fit to purpose.
It also isn't a matter of budget that prohibited you from disclosing useful information. It's that you had none.
Besides I would hardly call $2000 dollars a shoestring budget, especially when the main printer brought up was a bare bones $200 dollar budget printer that would have to have nearly a complete rebuild with just about every single part replaced and a hell of a lot added to ever even come close to being able to fit my needs.
Then insisting that you require information not pertinent to the question which couldn't be a more blatant way of intentionally wasting time then if you just typed out
>I just want to waste you time and never answer any direct questions
Over and over again.
Go try to troll someone else.

>>1936846
Cute strawman you got there.

>>1936854
>Printer linked doesn't even get up to 250 C
I'm not going to waste my time proofreading links for someone who can't be bothered to google "nylon 3d printer" like I did. keep reading, maybe you'll find something more fitting down the page, if you can muster the effort.

Nylon isn't an entry-level material. If your 3D printer can print nylon, it is able to print other nonstandard materials. You probably can't find a 3D printer that only specifically prints nylon. If you don't know how to connect the dots, apply some lateral thinking, and figure out what 3D printers could suit your needs based on that info, then you have no business with trying to print nylon in the first place.

$2000 is peanuts in this weight range.

>>1936859
Oh look, he is still trying.
Isn't that adorable.
Or annoying. Mostly just annoying.

>>1936861
I thought you said you were done wasting time. I guess being mocked by /3DPG/ is a more valuable use of your time than refusing to accept advice you asked for in the first place.

>>1936789
Damn anon... you seem to know what you're talking about. Have you started selling some products yourself?

>>1936864
Laughing at you is enjoyable enough to be worth my time.
Don't let me stop you from your clown performance.

what's the most useful thing you've ever printed, /3dpg/?

>>1936948
Arguably, something that's floating up on the ISS right now, depending on how you define "useful".

Other than that my custom monitor/laptop stands are pretty great and the collar on my kitchen sink has stood for a surprising number of years

>>1936886
>mocked by /3dpg/ for asking stupid question
>cries in google
>comes back on high horse with amazon invoice

See you again when you fuck up your first couple dozen prints.

>>1936948
I've gotten good use out of a bench block for punching out roll pins.

>>1936953
>Arguably, something that's floating up on the ISS right now, depending on how you define "useful".
Holy shit! Tell us moar anon. What kind of a gizmo did you design?

>>1936967
Unfortunately, I literally can't describe what gizmo I designed because of the (comparatively) small amount of stuff that's up in the station, I'd dox myself in absolutely no time if I said even vaguely what the function of it is, kind of like if you tried to describe "the guy who co-founded a large software company which made an OS installed on most home computer today", you'd either know right off the bat or be able to easily google "oh yeah that's Bill Gates".

However, I CAN say is that I designed the box the whole thing goes in and it fits where it's supposed to (milled aluminum, not much fanfare but I'm proud of making it work on my first go) and prototyped the vast majority out of FDM and SLA. The actual 3D printed parts I made are a variety of things - caps, structural members, pieces that bolt on to other pieces, bits that connect parts to other parts, and the like. It was really fun prototyping most of the gizmo in printed plastic and slowly seeing metal parts replace stand-ins - but there are a few parts which would have been prohibitively expensive/impossible to machine and/or had too long of a lead time to get in that made it into the final design.

>>1936758
>So sooner or later I will need a printer that can print nylon for the functional parts I need.
I've been printing Nylon with my Monoprice Select Mini. But I did install an all-metal V8 hot end (clone) and upgraded the thermistor.
It's out-of-the-box part that's throwing people. That's not how industrial stuff works. The hot end is like tooling in a lathe. You trade it out for your specific needs.

>>1936550
Monoprice Cadet hits all these requirements.

>>1936985
And that's how nerf anon made it into space

>>1936749
Dragon dildos

>>1936882
>>1936948
>>1937050

>>1936789
>File a design patent
Why? patents are expensive and china will rip you off anyway

>>1936743
No I do mean pekk it's around 300€ a roll but I can get it cheap through my work and I'm allowed to take scrap fillement home.

Have a bltouch coming in the mail. Anything I should know about it when it arrives? Any quirks you discovered that weren't mentioned when you were researching on it?

>>1937100
should've got a proximity sensor

>>1937114
Not as accurate as a touch sensor

>>1937024
it gets boring in space

>>1937016
It doesn't but it is probably the most adorable printer currently on the market.

Have extruders with corkscrew gears either side of the filament been tried?

>>1937190
Filament manglers? In the early days, not for long since they mangle the filament immediately. The pellet feeders use screw extruders, but that is different.

>>1937197
I see. I just thought the surface area would allow for a massive amount of force.

At first I imagined teeth on a tractor either side of the filament. I guess this has been tried too?

>>1937199
You are literally describing the evolution towards the dual hobbed gear extruder

I replaced my old maker select with a Creality CR6 SE. It is a huge improvement in every aspect, from print quality to ease of use. The print adheres way too well to the bed for its own good. I had trouble getting the print off even after it cooled to room temperature, but at least there won't be any bed adhesion problems.

>>1937225
Ah ok.

>>1937233
lower the bed temp by 5 degrees or let it completely cool down before removing the print

>>1937261
>off even after it cooled to room temperature
>let it completely cool down before removing the print

Do people on this site really have this much trouble with basic reading? It is like they skim then react with no attempt at comprehension.

room temperature leaves room for interpretation
if the thermistor says 20-ish degrees the part itself could still be warm and not shrinked yet

>>1935770
Not only did it finish the print it finished the replacement and then just fell apart when I unscrewed everything.

>>1937355
based little bracket that could. RIP PART

do people take paid STL models and upload them anywhere
there must be a site like that, every paid service has a pirate option
it's absurd how much people are charging for self-print miniatures

>>1937413
/tg/ has a thread where they share shit like that.

>pla peels off the bed like what I've seen others trying to print abs
Wew, cold weather printing is fun. Time to hook up the heater in the garage

>>1936948
That's pretty cool

>>1936859
What 3D printer can print nylon? I want to print one of these

>>1937435
What phone is that? So tiny.

Could someone help me figure out how to fix this problem? a print of mine got a lot of blobs/zits on it, and mostly in the corners. First pic is from a calibration print. I was watching this print, and where I circled in red, my hot end stayed in that corner for a few seconds before moving, I went to the troubleshooting link in OP post, and found this.

"If the defect does not occur until the end of the perimeter when the extruder is coming to a stop, then there is a different setting to adjust. This setting is called coasting. You can find it right below the retraction settings on the Extruder tab. Coasting will turn off your extruder a short distance before the end of the perimeter to relieve the pressure that is built up within the nozzle. Enable this option and increase the value until you no longer notice a defect appearing at the end of each perimeter when the extruder is coming to a stop. Typically, a coasting distance between 0.2-0.5mm is enough to have a noticeable impact."

I am starting another print with coasting enabled and left default settings.

>coasting volume 0.064mm^3
>minimum volume before coasting 0.8 mm^3
>coasting speed 90%

other than coasting, what else should I check to help remove these blobs?

>>1937498
Filter Out Tiny Gaps in Cura

>>1937501
thanks, anon, I will enable that, Should I disable coasting if my blob problem is persisting or keep it enabled with "filter our tiny gaps" enabled, too?

>>1937508
I don't know, I never used coasting
I only use combing to reduce stringing and use Z hop instead when I have coloumnar details.

Tell me about Anet A8 guys... is it a total shit or could one get by with using it?

>>1936985
Without doxing yourself, could you describe what the biggest challenges were and how did you solve them? For example, did you have spa(aaaaaaa)ce constraints? Force constraints? How much of an issue were the shocks on launch for the printed parts that did make it into space? Did you use a simulator like the vomit comet to see how they'd fare in microgravity once in space? Did your stuff make it alive up there or is it floating in pieces? There is a printer up there; has your team considered printing some stuff there in case something breaks?

>>1937531
My friend uses an Anet A6 for a while now with good results, I can't see why it wouldn't work

>>1937535
my only worry is that it would not be stiff enough.

I have an original Ender3 and would like to upgrade to silent drivers and 32bit.
Any recommendations on the a decent board?

>>1937561
skr mini

>>1937567
that was my first choice as well. thanks anon.

Is it better to get a bigger print volume then you initially think you need or should you get no more then what you probably need?

>>1937588
get what you can afford, and more importantly, what you can understand and fix

>>1937539
So what, you can always put on braces
At least it is not made of fucking plywood or acrylic

>>1937590
>platitudes
ok

>>1937588
I consider the Ender 3 as the absolute minimum print volume to start with

>>1937533
Sure, let's see if I can try.

>For example, did you have spa(aaaaaaa)ce constraints? Force constraints?
Fuck yes. Lots of constraints If you want to get into the details about it, visit https://ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/20190001390 for an outdated version of the document I had to follow. (hit the pdf link in the bottom left and wait a long time to open it, it's *long*). the tl;dr though is that we pretty much had to fit all the science we wanted to do into a box the size of a microwave, and that was a hard limit. Working around constraints like that plus maximum heat exchanged plus maximum touch temperature plus maximum dB level... bunch of weird things I had to design around because the ISS is old as balls and has some archaic standards from the 80's.

>How much of an issue were the shocks on launch for the printed parts that did make it into space?
Not really too much, there were non-printed parts I was way more worried about; all the printed pieces passed vibration tests with flying colours.

>Did you use a simulator like the vomit comet to see how they'd fare in microgravity once in space?
Not really necessary for most of the box, though there's some science bits we had done testing on to see if it was even worth sending the thing to space (in other words, why send it if you can do it just as well on the ground?).

>Did your stuff make it alive up there or is it floating in pieces?
As far as I know, everything's still in one piece.

>There is a printer up there; has your team considered printing some stuff there in case something breaks?
Hey, not bad; it's surprisingly little-known that there's two 3D printers on the ISS, good to see that people are aware. No, we haven't considered printing things because the boxes are not user-serviceable; Once the box is closed on the ground, it does not open until it returns to the ground - Astronauts should not be messing with the internals of our payload. I did my damndest to make sure nothing breaks, though.

>>1937533
I forgot to answer the actual question of what the biggest challenges were, oops.
>fit everything into a microwave
>make sure we had enough room for wires
>make sure that we conformed to NASA's weird-ass standards
That was more electrical than mechanical, glad I didn't have to touch it
>make sure that our design *worked* from beginning to end with no user intervention
This one was a PITA, because you literally cannot get them to help out, and if your science machine breaks in space, you've just wasted a whole lot of time and effort

I'm sure there's more, just nothing's coming to mind right now

New thread plox

>>1937654
>>1937634
Thanks anon desu

>>1937634
>it's surprisingly little-known that there's two 3D printers on the ISS, good to see that people are aware
I thought there was only one, noice; what are the models?

>>1937786
Two is one and one is none.

>>1937793
Yeah, it's late here and I'm a retard. I guess the models are the same or similar then? Also in my sector "one backup is no backup", so I wouldn't be surprised of a third printer

>>1937531
Yeah it's garbage, also it comes from the factory improperly assembled

>>1937593
>acrylic
it literally is acrylic dude

>>1936346
I bought some and yes it's barely noticeable even in favorable light

>>1937801
>Yeah it's garbage, also it comes from the factory improperly assembled
Thanks anon. Any opinions on Geeetech A10?

>>1937861
Dude, they're all chinkshit, pick your poison, I'd suggest you pick the poison that has the maximum amount of co-sufferers so you can ask for help to alleviate your pains from them.

>>1937539
>>1937050

>>1937797
No, you're not a retard, that other guy is - don't know what he's talking about.
>what are the models
They're custom-built from the ground up; the first test one was called 3DP, the one that's permanently installed there is called AMF

>>1937654
cool

>>1937892
>No, you're not a retard, that other guy is
No, that other guy is not a retard, that other retard is a guy

>>1937896

>>1937896
>>1937892
>>1937797
B-but yes anon, I am both retards :( I just was doing self-criticism, which is valid. It's part of the learning process.

New Thread (IN SPAAAAAACE)
>>1938051