/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1926666
>You mean a foreskin?
No, this will be both more protective and decorative. It can be worn regardless of genital mutilation.
It should be about 3mm thick made out of a rigid or semi rigid material.

>>1926761
>Most anons use Fusion360
Do they? How was this determined?

>>1926728
They are all very expensive and very specialized.
I can do it if the margins are high enough, otherwise I don't bother.

>>1926659
I printed and painted it. Came out way glossier than I wanted, but it's mostly going to be covered so it shouldn't be too much of a glare problem.

>>1926773
Cuckery is not welcome here, anon. Please disappoint your parents somewhere else.

>>1926773
Get a gourd

>>1926761
Does anybody want to share their experiences upgrading their firmware with Marlin vs TH3D vs Klipper vs vanilla, maybe in particular for Ender 3?
Has anybody got Octoprint to work to push firmware form a Raspberry 4 through the new JTAG, or through an USB JTAG adapter without the Arduino?

>>1926830
>printing dildos - welcome
>printing cuck cages - not welcome
???

>>1926853
Correct.

>>1926849
nice did you use any primer

>>1926761
Should the SLA guide be updated to include Sonic Mini 4k? Seems to be one of the best printers out rn, especially for mini's and such.

what bed temp should i use for kapton on pei for petg so the tape doesnt let go from the pei but the petg will still adhere?

>>1926840
That is the idea. I want ventilation holes in my decorative gord or dick sheath or cod piece!

>>1926855
>>1926888
It's not a cuck cage. It's a decorative sheath.

>>1926775
Two years worth of thread monitoring.

>>1926775
just hang around enough and you'll notice
you either get that, go through the trouble cracking some solidworks version, or you're a total tard who uses freecad/openscad

Can a kind anon please post a download link? It's apparently behind a pay wall.

>>1926917
Are you seriously asking if someone has bought /that?/

>>1926921
>Are you seriously asking if someone has bought /that?/
We all print the Dragon Dildos, but we don't pay for the Dragon Dildos and it would be gross to share Dragon Dildos or Dragon Dildo files.

>>1926923
I uploaded them recently, anon. Not the above one though
>>1925192
link might be dead, maybe not, haven't checked

>>1926917

how should I print supports for fragile objects like statues and the like? I tried 5% infill and 80% flow on supports and it's still impossible to remove them without damaging the print

>>1926990
The trick I’ve found is to have exactly .2mm between support and model. Set your layer height to .2 and then your support Z distance to .2 so there is one clean layer of “space” above the support. If you use a different layer height, say 0.1, that would work as you then have an integer of layers (2) to get the support Z distance to .2 but layer heights like .16 or so don’t work for me.

For reference, I’m talking about a 0.4mm nozzle with PLA at 190C. A fuckton of variables affect how your support sticks to the model.

Does anyone have experience with this BMG Wind extruder?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000983379658.html
Would it improve the quality of my prints on Artillery Sidewinder X1?

>>1926914
>>1926915
New to this whole thing, is the only way to use Fusion360 for free by signing up for a free year license, and then making a new fake account every year afterwards?

My ender 3 pro arrived a couple of days ago and I think my first prints are pretty decent. Not sure if you can make that out from pic related, though. I have to level my bed a lot, but hopefully that's fixed now I've re-tightened my belts.
I can see why people get really into this. There's a lot of bits of troubleshooting and little tweaks to do.

>>1927035
No, there a different free hobbyist license, but they disable a lot of stuff

>>1926956
This is getting lazy

...aww heck, it is still funny lol

>>1927091
Make sure you don't overtighten the roller adjustments, it can bust the bearings right away. Learned it the hard way, now I have a bumpy Z axis.

>>1927092
So Autodesk actually wants me to pirate their stuff?

>>1927111
Are you the guy with the vertical texture? Whatever happened to him?

Guys my brims fucking suck and I'm at the end of my rope here. They don't attach to the print and don't help with warping at all.
I swear I can't level the bed any better than this, I printed a first layer adhesion test and the diagonal lines look good, it's just the outer walls/brim.
It's an Ender 3 pro by the way.

>>1927150
Looks like they're shrinking. Try a higher bed and brim temp, no cooling for the first layer, and slower brim print speed. Helped me lots when I had a similar problem.

>>1927117
No. Mine are bumps on the side of the print, all around like a belt. X gantry gets stuck in the bearing bump, doesn't rise enough on Z travel and squishes the layers. Noticed it 4 layers in, nudged the gantry up a bit and the print managed to finish with just one bump.
When I examined the the gantry I saw it was the far side inner roller giving the bump, loosened up the excenter nut a bit. works, but I know the bearing is busted and had to re-level the bed due to the gantry far side sagging a little, thankfully not at all noticable in the prints, but I'll still have to replace the bearing.

>>1927150
You can adjust the gap between the print and the brim, also add more lines to the brim, those 2 or 3 lines don't hold shit. Add 10 at least.

>>1927161
Brim speed is already at 20mm/s with no cooling for the first layer. Bed temp is 60°C.

>>1927169
Gap is 0mm and more lines don't seem to help, they suck just as much. In the previous picture are like 5 or 6.

I don't mean to just shut down your suggestions but this thing is driving me insane because there's no reason why it should happen.

What could be causing this wierd messy look in the walls? They're more or less smooth on the outside so it's all internal.

>>1927208

polycarbonate or nylon for, uh, powder actuated tooling? pc is supposed to be extremely hard and stiff but nylon has much more give making it less likely to crack or snap but is also even harder to print. is there much to gain over just using petg?

>>1926956
>>1927107
This

Nobody knows how to make ventilation holes in my prints?
I expected more from you fags

>>1927254
use a drill?

>>1927180
>Brim speed is already at 20mm/s
Mine was too and I still had problems. Go down to 10mm/s, and if it starts to work bump it to 15.

>>1926830
Anon, you don't know. You don't know what his life is like, you don't know what it's like to have cock-hungry thots after your junk day in and day out... Have you ever woken up at 3am to some skank stealing the cum from you with her mouth? How about going for a No. 2 at work, only for some FEMALE to throw aside the drop ceiling and drop onto your exposed genitalia? It's a living hell. Just because girls won't touch you doesn't give you the right to rape this poor man by proxy, okay?
Thanks for listening to my TED talk.

>>1927180
Clean your bed surface. Thoroughly. With alcohol, multiple takes.

>>1927208
>>1927214
Is your part cooling single sided?

>>1927341
Yes, I'm pretty sure it wasn't on during this print though

>>1927309
I want to be able to make many small ventilation holes quickly.

>>1927331
The slight nose exhale I got from this post does not alleviate my severe disdain for your ilk.

>>1927410
You don't want to making holes in 3d prints. It's going to make a mess and lose lots of strength.
Just incorporate those holes into the design.

>>1927434
But, if I wanted to, how could it be done?
Heated sewing machine needle?

It is not feasible in this case to incorporate the holes into the design.

>>1927365
The hotend cooling still gives a considerable draft to the print.
I think you should improve your part cooling

>>1927510
Microperforated plate, for a computer case?

>>1927150
try adding a 0.05mm z-offset, the brim looks squished down a bit AS if the nozzle is too close. if you havent already raise first layer height to 0.3mm
>>1927020
how does part cooling work with that? and what is your quality missing that you want to improve?

Made a stand for my Xbone controller since the space sim season is starting.
0.2 base layer height, adaptive 0.16 for the logo, 25% infill

>>1927254
Is this for the cuck cage? You said rigid or semi-flexible. Have you looked into 3D printed fabric?

>>1926915
OpenSCAD gang

>>1926925
I can't find it, would you mind to share it again?

>>1927552
>>1925192

>>1927150
start a print with a large brim over the whole buildplate, adjust level knobs while its printing until brim lines stick well

>>1927553
The dick t-rex or dickdragon is not in that zip, it's just bad dragons product line up.

>>1927410
multiple drills
birdshot

sup /3dpdg/

>>1927583
sub blotches

>>1927557
Jesus, what a huge waste of plastic. Skirts, brims, and rafts are all completely useless. If your bed is level, adequately adhesive, and the right temp, you shouldn’t be using any of those. For PLA cooling should be off for the first few layers to help adhesion, and I typically print my bottom layer 10° hotter than the rest of the print. Works great.

The one exception is parts with irregular shaped bottoms, then a raft could help.

I caved and bought the dick dragon.
https://anonfiles com /h5ee5debpf/Dragon_Dick_V4_stl
Here's a mirror for the anon that wanted it.

>>1927847
Huh? Its free, I've seen it before on another website.

>>1927851
Oh ffs, it was under the naughty category, but they wanted $5. Don't know why I though it would be free.

>>1927851
I could only find it on cults3d. Any other "dragon dick model" search just gave me dildos

>>1927853
Yep. $5 isn't much if I'm gonna gift the print to a friend, and there was at least one other person here who wanted it also.

>>1927851
Niggas broke it but its free.jpg

>>1927854
>>1927855
>>1927857
I am dumb please disregard and print your dick dragon and post pictures.

Is there a slicer that will automatically lower the nozzle and bed temps once the print is done? When my prints finish the nozzle just stays at the last layer and lets some PLA ooze on the print.

>>1927864
Any slicer that lets you add end g-code

Good afternoon, gents.
Do any of you guys use an uninterruptible power supply for your printers?
The electrical system in my apartment is absolute ass and I figure that it's a worthwhile investment if it prevents a 30 hour print getting killed by a brownout. My budget is up to about 300 Canadian Bolivars.

>>1927091
Try this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

>>1927150
I model the brim in CAD. Literally just convert entity the perimeter, offset a 4mm, extrude it upwards by 0.12mm and it works like a charm. Just remember to select all the areas in the extrusion.

>>1927549
>OpenSCAD gang
Represent

>>1927698
Brim helps a lot if the part you're printing has a chamfer or fillet on the bottom.

>>1927150
Try a raft instead of a brim, with 1 layer each bottom, middle, top, printed at 10mm/s. Sounds wasteful but at least it works.

>>1927872
I have a UPS for my whole desk, mostly for my computer but including the printer. Haven't burnt down anything so far.

>>1927881
APC BK650 or related, can't remember how much it cost, but it should be around 200. Maybe less if you shop around.

>>1927881
What model?
My desktop is like an 8 year old gaming PC, so it uses a stupid amount of electricity.

>>1927882
>APC BK650
That'd probably be fine for the printer alone, but I'm fairly certain my PC uses something like 700 or something Watts.

>>1927883
Just checked, I have a BX650.
>My desktop is like an 8 year old gaming PC, so it uses a stupid amount of electricity.
You're gonna need a bigger boat. Get your computer PSU's power plus your printer's PSU's power plus 20%. I'm actually way over my power budget with my computer's nominal 500W and my printer's nominal 300W peak. I'm taking a bite out of my chair seat.

>>1927885
I might end up just putting the printer on battery and the rest of my desk on just the surge protection, just to give my prints the best chance possible in case of a long outage.
I think I'm going to opt for one of those new AMD laptops when I have the dosh. Double the performance of this thing for half the power and built-in battery backup.

>>1927886
Sounds reasonableish; do send a pic of your setup when you get it!

Any tips for using fusion360 or something better? I've only made a handful of items using it but whenever I make something circular, it ends up printing more jagged-like. The model shown in fusion360 and cura both show it as a nice smooth circle but when printing it's like it vibrates as it does the circles. When using models off the web, it prints nice smooth circles.

>>1927903
I don't use Fusion360, but in SW there are a bunch of options on .STL accuracy when exporting.
AFAIK, no printers actually use G2 and G3 commands, so you're basically SOL if you're working on optics or something.

>>1927227
Petg is too soft, pc isn't brittle, pc should be the best for "powder tools", tho seems they're mostly printed in bog standard pla or pla+

>>1927903
You need to make sure you're exporting with the right resolution. Don't use Fusion's built-in slicer. Check if the model looks the way you expect it to when you import the .stl into your slicer.

>>1927227
PLA for linear force applicators.

I couldn't find info on whether this would work or not, not sure if here is the best place to ask or if I should go to /k/. I have an elegoo mars. Do any 3d printed guns work on an stl printer, or do they only work if printed on an fdm?

>>1928053
I was under the impression that resin prints tend to be more geometrically accurate, but brittle (compared even to FDM PLA).

So, decided to finally upgrade my SW version and I'm having a lot of trouble with the step of moving licenses in the SolidNetwork license manager.
Could someone with a working version of 2020 take a screenshot of the order they have their licenses?

>>1928093
This stuff, here.

>>1928093
>>1928102
The error message it gives me.

>>1928105
Might be an expired license or the old version of SW you went from doesn't support 2020. I know that SW is backwards compatible, but not forwards compatible (SLM has to be the same version as your SW install or older). A rearm might fix it (stop services, reactivate, start services).
For others, I'm looking at getting a Creality3D CR-10 S5 for some parts I'm making in SolidWorks. A few parts are kind of big, so I chose that one for the working area. I'm looking at upgrades from the all3dp.com article of upgrades for it and looking over other blogs and articles for 3D printing from SolidWorks. Anyone have any personal advice or things to look out for when starting out with prototyping with SW and 3D printing?

>>1928120
I'm uninstalling all the extra stuff and seeing if that fixes it. Maybe I'll try adding them back one by one to see if I can keep it running while also adding flow simulation and whatnot.

I haven't used a CR-10, but my Ender 3 Pro works quite well. Just make sure you assemble it properly.
You really want to get a spring upgrade and some wingnuts to make sure the bed adjustment knobs don't work themselves loose.

>>1927527
Yes, similar to that if I can figure out how to do it with my prints

>>1927532
>Is this for the cock gourd?
Yes, it is.
I know about the 3D fabric, but only basic types that would cause uncomfortable chafing. I will review it

>>1927570
probably wouldn't produce optimal results

>>1928123
The article with upgrades mentions springs but not wingnuts, I'll be sure to check into that. I know that the SW license manager is a picky bitch, but I'm guessing you have a license that's expired and preventing you from activating. If it's legit and have a VAR, you can try contacting them, otherwise there's a few articles online that cover that error in case that doesn't work. Do you have good luck with SolidWorks' Print3D for auto-building supports or do you recommend something else?

>>1928139
I use Cura for most of that stuff (aside from making the brim in SW as previously mentioned).

>got a 1:24 diecast car in the mail
>started to develop a suspension, want to make it rc
>printed out several iterations throughout the day
>didn't take any pics of it
first time I'm using the printer as a handy tool within my workflow. I found some guy making carbon fiber parts at home, at one point he prints some molds/ forms with pic related on a cr-10 - is there actual aluminum filament? all I found was pla mixed with alu-dust for color
>>1928120
upgrade-wise it really depends on what you'll be doing with it. if you don't want to wait for days for a big print get something like a volcano hotend with a 1mm+ nozzle. same if you want to print materials like nylon, you'll need an all metal hotend for that. if you need even bigger parts you can either glue them together or get a 3d-pen and "weld" them together that way.
other than that get some good measuring tools to make sure the printer is set up precisely.

>>1928162
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nx-GwKOH5qc

So, it turns out the reason SW was having a tantrum was because it wasn't installed on C:\
Fucking lmao

Ok so I swapped from a 0.4 to a 0.6 nozzle to speed up print time.
BUT suddenly my layer adheison went down the road and the prints become brittle in general. Same temp and speeds as with 0.4 nozzle. (40mm/s PLA)

Do I have to print slower on 0.6?
Note: it does not show the characterisitc underextrusion layers with bittle prints, but I'll investigate more.

>>1928193
If you're pushing more material through at the same printing speed the overall temperature will have decreased in the plastic since it's being distributed over greater mass, basic physics.

>>1928194
Ok, I'll try slowing it down then.
I'll also investigate if I have a bowden -> nozzle coupling/clogging problem which causes most brittle prints.

>>1928193
i remember reading that you want the nozzle slightly hotter because you have more plastic moving through it. like 5 degrees maybe

>>1928193
which hotend are you using?
on my stock ender3p with mk8 hotend I had to print at 15mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle since the hotend couldn't keep up on normal speeds even when printing hotter than usual.

>>1928195
Since you're increasing the mass being extruded by 1.5x try slowing print speeds down to 67% or something.
If any physics fags would throw me the relevant formulas I could probably find the correct numbers.

>>1928199
Stock CR-10 hotend.
Ok good to know.
I'll try both things. Printing hotter and/or slower.
If I can't fix it, I'll go back to 0.4. Everything comfy there.

>>1926915
it takes some time for reliable solid crack to surface, also nothing stops you from using a bit older versions, i'm currently sitting on 2019.
>>1927112
if i'm not mistaken, people say to get old inventor and stick to it

On a related note, I found fusion360 to be great for stepcraft CNC and setting up gcode for cncs, other then that I use only solidworks for 3d modelling

>>1926849
is that you coomer?

>>1926761
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Is it worth getting the pro or v2 over the original? Is the Mega S considered better? I’ll be printing RC drone and wing parts and doodads

>>1928130
I accidentally printed a pretty tight sieve by setting my first layer height wrong. When I pushed the tube into water, it wouldn't come up through the holes at a depth of like 15cm. There are guides for small meshes on yt, I think.

>>1928214
seeing how the mega s costs as much as an e3p but has more comfort options I'd probably go for that. advantage of the enders are that they are really common and there will be a solution for everything readily available.
>drone parts
which material are they usually made from and which size? if you want parts for those tiny drones maybe a sla-printer might be a better fit

>>1927698
Brims help when your part-bed interface is small. There are geometries that *will* pull away the bottom from the plate, no matter how level it is. Keeps happening to me with long, thin horizontal features, with multiple materials, no matter what temperature.

>>1928217
Hmm I mean things like servo control horns, so like abs or something rigid. Maybe a smaller propeller for fun. But like motor mount. Canopy. Maybe a wing. Camera mount etc. I would probably link to print props and other stuff at some point but this is what I’d probably immediately try to do. Currently I want to build a small RC wing. A mount might be TPU to protect stuff from crashes too etc.

>>1928217
Mega S seems $100 AUD more on banggood than the ender 3 v2 and $170 more than the ender 3 pro.

>>1928199
You should take a look at the valcano hotend

Can you 3D print a magnifying glass? I mean like sanding it and polishing it smooth after printing. Is transparent filament optically clear enough?

>>1928236
Possibly with SLA, but not with FDM.

>>1928236
Buy one glass only, they are cheap as glass, then print a suitably satisfying frame for it

>>1928236
Maybe with a resin printer, but it'll never be perfectly clear.

>>1928221
look on aliexpress, its 180 euromoney
>>1928222
i did, its the picture i attached with my post
>>1928219
sla might be to brittle for that, if you want to print abs and maybe nylon for very strong parts look into getting an enclosure

>>1928268
What are the benefits of the i3 mega s over the ender 3 etc? What about print quality/detail?

>>1928236
I highly doubt you could, to be honest. Clear filament isn't nearly clear enough at all.

>>1926773
meshmixer has a lattice feature or whatever to make fancy hollow bunnies, which I suppose you would put your tiny cock in, considering you're here. send pics of your gf

>>1927331
what if someone brushed up against your sweatpants and there was only fabric between your penior and a girl. you might have flashbacks to your mum washing your junk and nothing between her hand and you but a rough washcloth and not enough soap. it's enough to make one want to stay in the basement forever.

>>1928268
Also it looks like PLA will be fine for my 99% of my usage, and TPU for any soft parts if needed.

>>1927529
I want to hate you for being a console simp but I'd rather know what material and what did you finish it with.

>all those unfinished bases
I know you just want attention faggot, but have some goddamned self respect for once.

Is there any foolproof way to configure your ender3 not to fuck up on larger prints?
Or any machine/machine parts that help make it less painful?
t. Ender3 owner whose prints fucked up AGAIN

>>1928282
benefits over the e3p
>better stock print plate, probably not warped from the factory
>dual-z steppers
>sturdy frame
>32-bit board, faster, plenty of space for marlin options
>filament runout sensor
>touchscreen
>gets shipped mostly assembled
you give up a bit of build volume which will most likely not affect you as drones arent tall in z-direction print quality is probably the same.
my e3p printed fine out of the box, i'm looking to upgrade the board to 32bit tho which is about 50€ and maybe to dual-z which is another 30€
>>1928297
what is fucking up?

>>1928293
they're cobblestone bases, they're dun

>>1928312
>what is fucking up
One edge of the prints always had less plastic coming out early during the print which fucks up edges (looks lifted up), pla will snap off midprint and at least one long print just seems to have stopped putting out plastic.

>>1928316
>less plastic coming out early
nozzle too close to the plate, level it better or check if the plate is warped
>pla will snap off
either too moist or pulled from too small radius, dry the filament, get some filament guides or look up indirect bowden setups
>stopped putting out plastic
could be from the filament snaps or clogs from heatcreep

>>1928312
>e3p
why would anyone buy a pro when the v2 exists?

>>1928312
No bowden machine can safely print ABS or real TPU with any kind of quality. What idiot made this?

>>1928363
I print ABS around 230°, well under the recommended PTFE safety limits.

>>1928363
>>1928374
What does bowden have to do with the printing temp?
The tube that feeds filament won't get very hot.

>>1928214
The Ender 3 Pro is a definite upgrade over the original Ender 3. The beefier Y axis alone is enough to be worth the extra cash.

Anyone here that can give some recs on filament, looking at picking up some esun PLA+ but I hear some colors are supposed to be shittier quality?

>>1928363
Bowden machines can still have full metal hotends.

>>1928361
because the e3p with a glassbed+silent board is like 50€ cheaper than the v2
>>1928363
>tpu
harder tpu can be printed slowly
>abs
are you okay

Are filament dryers a meme?

>>1928471
Depends on your local humidity. It would be useful, but not a necessity, where I live. YMMV.

>>1928471
No, recently had horrid issues with ordinary PLA that I fixed by putting them in the oven for two days at 60C, now I keep all my stuff in sealed packages.

>>1928471
I use a plastic box with a fitting lid and a sack of desiccator in as a drybox, works like a charm

>>1928565
Have you tried one of these? It's supposed to make the desiccant reusable

>>1928588
Also thinking if these bags are viable

>>1928588
You putting the bag of desiccant into the oven or microwave will make it reusable, that shit is just stupid for stupid americans

What are the compromises / disadvantages of choosing a i3 mega S over an ender 3 pro?

So I been looking into it, and apparently cannot upgrade the stepper drivers on the stock ender 3 / pro boards? But new ender 3s all shipping wi5 32 bit boards? (Assuming I could get a 32 bit version for the inexpensive price). Looked at the biqu b1 but same price as ender v2.

With the Anycubic Mega S, can I upgrade the drivers? I was looking at the lv8729 after watching a few videos, they’re like $3 aud on taobao

>>1928588
dessicant is always resusable you just have to dry it first

Have an Ender 3 Pro, just received my glass bed.

I am currently using the magnetic bed. Do I need to remove the sticky magnetic thing from the bed (what the magnetic mat rests on) before I install the glass, or can I leave it on?

Theres a huge discount coming on the Ender 5 Pro tonight by the looks, I am guessing that'll be a better buy

>>1928750
I left mine on. Make sure you lower the Y axis travel speed to compensate for the added mass it has to move around, eh? Mine is just clamped down with three paperclips like pic related and it works fine.
Also, I'd recommend getting a laser thermometer. It takes a while for the glass to heat through to the top, so I just set it to preheat to 60C and actually start up the print once the top of the bed reaches about 55C (I only print PLA). Doing otherwise would either leave you with a print bed that's too cold or have your hot end idle way too long, burning filament inside of it.
For cleaning I use a few spritzes of isopropyl alcohol and a sponge.

>>1928750
>>1928757
Oh, and I should add that if you're having adhesion issues, just spray the part of the bed you'll be printing on lightly with hair spray.

>>1928471
Not if you live in a state or country with a constant 60-100% humidity.
Speaking of which I need to make a dry box for mine.

>>1926917
le epic penis dragon! so epic and randumb xDDD! wait till redit sees this!!

So why are monochrome SLA printers all the rage these days? I thought they were just cheaper but apparently they print fester too, what's up with that?

>>1928688
>>1928741
gonna try the vacuum bag with some desiccant

>>1928828
Tiny print area. Fumes. Messy. Lots of problems. Resin is your material.

>>1928844
I don't think you understood the question, anon. The past few months there's been a big fuss about specifically "monochrome" SLA printers and everybody and their mother is releasing a new one or re-releasing "updated" models with monochrome screens and I'm trying to figure out why and how there's a benefit to them

>>1928845
White light contains whatever wavelength the resin actually needs to cure, so you'd be saving yourself a lot of money that way with no real downside, right?

>>1928846
white light doesn't necessarily have UV. If you point a flashlight at the resin it won't cure unless the LEDs emit the right wavelength

They should use an enlarging lens rather than an LCD, then you can use whatever print size you want and you dont need to worry about getting it so close. In fact maybe I can build a resin printer at some stage using a lens instead. You could also use this method to get the lens closer to the resin to project the image over a much smaller area to get a vastly higher detailed miniature.

>>1928849
I'll take "what is a DLP printer" for 500, Alex

>>1928850
They dont use a lens, just a screen and print size is limited by the screen. Using a smaller screen and a lens between the screen and print area, would allow you to have a very very large print area. I suppose you could even have a screen that slowly moves across the print area while changing/scrolling the image to increase print area.

>>1928855
>They dont use a lens, just a screen
No, that's MSLA printers. (True) DLP printers use a laser, and a lens to focus/direct the light. Product titles chock-full of buzzwords don't mean a thing, they'll throw whatever they want in there if it shows up in more search results.

>>1928857
*laser or projector, not just a UV LED with a screen in front of it

>>1928163
I was just thinking about doing this

>>1928216
Radical

>>1928284
I like it, but they look like they might chafe.
Maybe the YT meshes the other anon suggested

>>1928857
That also sounds like a 5 figure printer

>>1928878
Only 3, actually; some Chinese printers use lasers (Peopoly Moai) and the Form 3 is only 3.5k USD

>>1928895
How much of an issue do those have with the beam not always being perpendicular to the build plate?

>>1928897
Form 1 was pretty much the same thing as the Moai IIRC and it was only really a problem if you printed things way at the edges, and even then wasn't too bad and detail was still good. With the Form 3, it's literally nonexistant due to the design of the machine. YMMV with other printers depending on how exactly they've got their beam path set up.

What is my best option for printing a larger 3D printer from my monoprice mini delta?
Having trouble rabbitholeing this.
The ø110 x 120 mm isn't enough anymore.

>>1928904
literally Ender 3 (/pro) and call it a day

>>1928907
instructions? stl?

>>1928909
realized I read your post wrong.

Printing a printer is very irrational, especially with a tiny printer like yours (requires a lot of time, patience, expertise, money, 3rd party parts and the endproduct will be worse than a commercial printer.) The only reason someone would do this is for the fun of it.

Just buy an Ender 3 or similar

>>1928895
With a large print area though?

Okay so there is a special on the Ender 5 Pro dropping soon bringing it down to Ender 3 Pro or below prices. The Ender 5 Pro is definitely better than the Anycubic Mega S right?

Would i be nuts to throw a bmg and a mosquito magnum on my ender 3?

>>1928933
So it looks like an 8-bit board still unless it’s shipped with 32-bit board.

Is it worth using an 8-bit it ender 5 pro over a mega S?

>>1928933
>Okay so there is a special on the Ender 5 Pro dropping soon bringing it down to Ender 3 Pro or below prices.
Sauce on that? Been eyeing a 5 to mess with high speed printing but not for 400 or 500 bucks. But for 250-300 I'd be interested.
As far as boards are concerned, I wouldn't even worry about it. If you buy an ender just chuck in an SKR mini for 30 bucks then lrn2marlin in an afternoon and be done with it, it's going to be better than either stock board.

>>1928959

>>1928941
an original one? probably
a clone? no, for under 50€ I can't see a reason not to
why do you need the high temps tho?
>>1928933
yes, its also easier to enclose so you can print fancier materials warp-free

>>1928982
Well it's sold out now and I missed out at that price lmao was waiting on an answer

>>1928982
>200 burger coins
Fuck I have definitely would have bought one even though I hate buying ching chong direct

>>1928471
One of these things wouldn't dry the filament between it and the printer, and I'm too lazy to remove and insert filament when it isn't necessary. Instead I'm going to put a lightweight plastic enclosure around the printer along with a small dehydrator.

How does the 4040 bed rail on the e3p compare to the dual 2020 bed rails on the e3v2? obviously having a wider stance it's going to be more stable, but does it really matter? We're not milling here, the only time any force is being applied on the bed is the first layer and I guess technically the weight of the part if it's heavy enough but still. Is it worth a retrofit?

>>1928932
If there was a way to cheaply and easily manufacture a huge SLA print area you bet your ass the Chinese would be all over it by now.

>>1929061
>2 or more lasers or 4k projectors
Also, the chinese are more about copying designs than innovation.

>>1929015
upgrade to dual 4040, clearly

Is first time sla printing always nerve wracking? I set up my elegoo mars earlier and it won't be done for another couple of hours. So used to fdm where I can see if it shits it's self immediately.

Will it cause any problems if I turn it off when it's done printing? As in just unplug it and then deal with the print tomorrow?

can anyone tell me what name my printer is? Just started using it a few days ago and now the nuzzle is clogged (atleast i believe thats why it doesnt print) and cant find any functioning ways of cleaning it

>>1929118
I believe it is a Chinkshit Trash 9000

>>1929118
Looks like an Anet A8.
But nozzle clogs aren't really printer specific.

>>1929088
Nope. Once it's printed, it's printed, you can turn it off as soon as it finished and leave it for an arbitrary amount (as long as you don't like, leave it in direct UV light)

>>1929149
Thank you buddy.

>job has me working with DLS printers all day
>come home
>Prusa MK2.5 I built in college still can't print reliably
>nozzle clogged since I moved so now it can't even do that
>know I have to replace the nozzle
>considering selling it to get a resin printer and passing it off to someone else
>mfw

>>1929226
>know I have to replace the nozzle
>considering selling it
It's like a 10 minute job at most mate, what are you talking about?

>>1929230
>fix the nozzle
>still can't print for shit
>spend another 3 days trying to get it to properly level because some retard thought magnets gatekeeping prints was a good idea
fuck you this thing has been nothing but pain to work with

>>1929231
If it isn't printing properly, you fucked up during assembly.
Take it apart and put it together with all the parts nice and square.

>>1929231
There's some fundamental issues and I don't think it's with the machine. If I can revive one of those machines after 2 years of abuse by random interns then you just need to take it slow and probably rebuild half the thing like >>1929235 mentioned. It's not a jet engine, the thing's simple as hell.

>>1929226
>know I have to replace the nozzle
Why's that? there really are usually very few reasons to ever change nozzles.

>>1929243
Depends on what you print, really. A lot of additives are pretty abrasive and can wear it out. That or having your hot end on for long periods without actually extruding can cause it to clog with burnt plastic.
It's a wear & tear part just like belts and rollers.

>>1929237
>It's not a jet engine, the thing's simple as hell
Anybody with a sintering printer wanna try and print a pulsejet? Should be dead simple

>>1929235
>>1929237
>rebuilding for a third time
worth the $1k :) very cool

>>1929260
if you fuck up building something it doesn't matter how much it cost, you fucked up building it
>$1k
For that price either you got scalped or you should have contacted support if you got it pre-built

This stuff any good, or does someone have a better recommendation for clear resin?

In other news my cheap chink Ender 3 Pro is working flawlessly.
Also my friend uses an Anet A6 and has printed an RC car and an RC JCB and is making his second RC car amongst various printing jobs for around the house
Why do people always fall for the czech memester?

>>1929274
All the clear resins will yellow considerably after a month or two. You will never print glass.

>>1929278
I know, but thanks. I just know there's a hundred different brands out there and that some are genuine crap and wanted to filter those out without having to determine it myself

>Meeting up with cousin I haven't seen in a few years in about a month
>Want to print him something out
>Said he likes Trump
>All the thingiverse models are either bobbleheads or "BASH LE FASH XDDDDD" tier trash
What do I do? I found this but I don't think he'd get the reference. Everything else is pretty shit.

So it looks like the SV-01 is on sale for Prime Day. Any reviews? Just by eyeballing it looks like an ender3 pro clone.

Anyone having experience with this food dehydrator for filament? From Ali of course.

>Buy dc-dc converter to put a 5v fan on heat break
>Set it up and test it
>Rerun the wires after testing it
>Not working
>Turns out I plugged it in backwards
Fug now the converter is broken

>>1929318
It's a learning process anon. It's not a failure if you end up learning something.

In this case you learned not to be a retard.

>>1929287
i cant find anything good that isnt for sale and buttfuck retarded expensive (200 bucks... really? really.) so good luck. theres a low poly version or something here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4619949..

Whats a good z carriage design for a rly tall printer? (1m)

>>1929403
Linear rails and ballscrew.

>>1929404
what if I'm a poor?

>>1929405
Linear rails and acme rod.

>>1929406
fuck ur right i forgot linear rails are basically a must

>>1929410
You DID ask for "good".

>>1926761
Question:
someone got buid a 3D printer with ink printers parts ? got a few ones to get some spare parts

What causes this?

>>1929403
>Whats a good z carriage design for a rly tall printer? (1m)
Hangprinter? https://youtu.be/gPvIHsF13D4

>>1929387
Much appreciated friend. I'll do some digging to see if there's some obscure post out there.

>>1929315
Not the same one, but I got one from a yard sale and I cut out the middle with a sawzall and just kept the top one intact.

So now spam bots reply to other spam bots on my thingiverse

rrrrreeeeeeeee

>>1929480
underextrusion

>>1929453
That's how a lot of powder printers work.

>>1929453
You could of course do that for x and y axis but you'll need to be breddy good in electronics and mechanics to pull this off. Extremely time consuming and you certainly wouldn't save any money compared to a bought printer.
Could be a nicce show-offy project though.

>>1929480
>What causes this?
Bad maintenance and user stupidity

>>1928284
is there STLs for this somewhere?
specifically that middle one on the top

>>1928471
Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap one? Can modify if necessary

>>1929620

Can I fit a 4020 fan in the stock hotend metal box of an ender 3? The stock 4010 is dying and I thought maybe a 4020 would be better/more silent.

>>1929626
Why would you keep the stock metal box? Just print a Hero Me and you'll have ducts for most fan sizes.

Generally how much degree of an angled overhang is printable without supports on PLA?

>>1929672
Depends on layer thickness.
Of the top of my head 0.2mm is 45deg, 0.12mm is 59. But you can add ~10-15% to that typically.

>>1929672
>>1929679
You can roughly calculate this, assuming PLA and good cooling you don't want more then half of your layer sticking. For a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, this comes out to 45 degrees. A 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.12mm nozzle comes out to about 59 degrees - just round that off to 60. If you want to increase your printer's maximum overhang angle, you should pick a big fat nozzle, and print with tiny layers.

>>1929700
>assuming PLA and good cooling you don't want more then half of your layer sticking OUT
derp

>>1929679
Thx. I'm designing a simple headset stand for my headphones. Single piece, fitting the Ender 3 bed without supports.
So far it looks like this, should be on its back during printing

>>1929710
Or you make two pieces out of it and connect them after printing...

>>1929717
Single piece and no supports was a designing challenge. I know it seems small, but at that height it fits my small JBL C45BT

What's the best software for designing 2D shapes one or two layers thick?

>>1929744
3d software

>>1929746
I'm trying to draw a line in F360 and it's annoying as fuck.

>>1929748
Sketch and extrude. Remember, a single line of extrusion has a volume, represented by a rectangle and applying a thin extrude.

>>1926761
Quidi tech x max
do I buy this for 520 euro its says its new and its on amazon so do I risk getting scammed? btw its like 1300 normally that's why im not sure If its legit

>>1929754
Build area is tiny as shit, just get an Ender 3 Pro or Ender 5 Pro

>>1929755
What are you on about?
The Ender 3 build area is smaller.

>>1929753
I see, thanks.

>>1929755
>>1929759
220x220x250mm ender
300 x 250 x 300 mm x max
also I want to use weird filaments like cf

>>1929763
I'd still get the Ender 5, maybe the Plus and put on sidepanels for an enclosure

>>1929627
Had 2 hero me, the vents kept melting so I went back to the stock one. I need to find someone with a resin printer and make a SLA hero me.

>>1929710
>>1929717
>>1929737
Take a look at this similar piece; I'm having issues trying to print it, but it seems to solve some of yours. Try having the upper support have a 45° or lower angle instead of basically being a cantilever. Tilting it back a few degrees when printing can help too.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3655764

>>1929780
>the vents kept melting
How the fuck do you achieve that? Did your hotend cooling fan get busted or did you manage to switch it off?
I've been using mine for a year and it is printed in regular PLA

>>1929783
It is printing already, laying on its back (giggidy)
There is some warping going on since it is a long shape (giggidy) but so far it managed to stay put. About 2h remaining, fingers crossed

>>1929780
Have you tried annealing? It seems to help with deformation temperatures for PLA. You could get flour salt or grind salt yourself, pack your piece tightly in a metal or Pyrex tray, and bake it at 230°C for 45m.

If you live in burgerland:
>mark a zero point at the eutectic point of a mixture of ice,water, and ammonium salt
>mark a point at the melting point of pure water
>divide their distance by 32 degrees
>count 445 degrees from the zero
>take your oven to that temperature
>bake your piece for roughly 2800 beats of a pendulum of the length of thirty and six barly cornes, dry and rounde, placed end to end lengthwise

I planning on getting a printer farm up and running for curtain "parts" so i have been looking at the cheapest printers that are still able to do so. I have found a couple of Anycubic mega zero's for 84 euro's (a steal in my book).

But I have found a very interesting problem, the z carriage is only moved by one lead screw.
This causes the carriage to sag a little on one side, but that's not a problem for my parts.
What is interesting is that when the z moves down for the first time the unsupported side moves up a little more, and then when it starts moving back up again after printing it stays in the same position causing over extrusion.

I have fixed it now by letting the printer move slightly beyond the end stop then move up a little and only then start printing.

So keep this in mind of you're getting a printer like this.

>>1929480
How fast?
Printer?
Temps?

My guess is that you have a jam or that your extruder can't keep up causing it to skip steps.

>>1929274
I've had the best result with Monocure clear, though it does yellow over a period.

>>1929754
I can't think of much that could go wrong on amazon, worst case is you send it back. Is it on amazon-day sale maybe?
>520€
from what I see on the pic it has a heated chamber and network connectivity, pretty good value I'd say
>>1929780
put a silicone sock on your hotend and/ or print it in petg

>>1929792
>I planning on getting a printer farm up and running for curtain "parts"
Are you gonna steal my curtain hook? :(

Is this overextrusion? I know I have costing enabled so it's not that.

>>1926849
Thin your paints.

>>1928471
No, I had 7 year old PLA that constantly went through 90% humidity summers and popped and hissed while printing and all the prints came out perfectly fine.

I have a relatively new Ender 3 Pro and noticed an unusual thing, Seems like the bed is not dipping, but bulging in the middle, seems to be 0.1-0.2mm higher than the edges.
It came with the magnetic bed and the magnetic strip is glued down. Is it possible it has a bubble and is it easy to fix it?

>>1929801
Filter Out Tiny Gaps in Cura, supposed to eliminate the blobs on the outside

>>1929540
Lmao, imagine having uploads that are so popular and well-done that it attracts spambots.
What a maroon.

>>1929480
No way to know really, doesn't look at all familiar, chinkshit printer probably.

>>1929818
I'll give it a try when I get home. Thanks fren

>>1929672
I managed to get 70 degrees before it started having surface finish defects on this test:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295

I was fucking around with my Ender 3, trying to level the bed, tighten the screws, etc. now my prints are so fucked up. The first layer is all wobbly. I cancelled the print before it could go any further. How did my retarded ass mess it up

How long can resin sit uncured as long as it's washed? My curer doesn't arrive until Monday and the sun isn't very bright this time of year.

>>1929835
>I managed to get 70 degrees before it started having surface finish defects
What did you try? With a .12 layer height, I'm getting curling at ~45° on my prints (not on that test)

>>1929842
1. Tighten the bed screws down all the way
2. Level the bed by loosening the screws the least possible
3. Adjust your Z stop height so that your first layer is JUST right

Stiffer springs mean less bed wobble when changing direction rapidly on the Y axis and less chance of it snagging on something while fast traveling or whatever.
I actually had to clip the little thing on the side of the Z stop to bring it a little bit lower than the top of the extrusion.

I print with a brim, but I also use a skirt (3 perimeters) which I use solely for making sure the first layer is going down well. Remember that the further away from the center of the bed, the more any variation in bed angle, the worse the Z offset will be. This is why I also recommend printing in the center of the bed if at all possible.

>>1929847
I forget if it was .12 or .2, to be honest.
I recommend going down the list of settings in cura, hovering your mouse over each one and reading the little blurb. It really holds your hand when it comes to settings.

>>1929842
Unscrew the screws until it's just a couple of turns in to hold everyting together, level it, leave it heating at 60°C for a couple of hours to relieve stresses, level it again. Works for me when I change the bed; did it when I added knob detents and when adding the bed end holder for the cable chain. YMMV.

>>1929851
>>1929852
I think I fucked it up by messing around with the smaller nut above the bed screw.

I added the new springs and knobs kit before messing with it.

>>1929860
I'd recommend buying these to replace the bed springs:
https://www.amazon.ca/LEOWAY-Compression-Spring-CR-10Mini-Printer/dp/B07QCTSZ9G

>>1929862
I have those

>>1929865
Do you have a locknut under the knob? I use wingnuts for it for ease of adjustment.

>>1929860

>>1929867
No they're like the stock ones but aluminum

>>1929869
The bed is too high on the right and too low on the left.

>>1929874
What about those weird curves? Part of the level or did I mess up the rollers?

>>1929876
Is it supposed to be perfectly rectangular?
What model are you printing?

>>1929783
>>1929788
It finished printing, the slight warp is not visible norbimparing function. Of which is standing and it is standing.
Furthermore it holds the headphone which is as much as I wanted from it.
Pic related.

>>1929878
Yeah It's supposed to be square. I'm printing the level test squares

>>1929880
Also before I printed these Xbone joy extenders, they snap on easy and work like a charm.

>>1929881
They look like the skirt that prints before the squares.

>>1929881
>>1929883
Seems like a lot of perimeters for a skirt.

>>1929884
Whatever is set in the slicer

>>1929883
>>1929884
I cut it off when I saw the square was warped

>>1929882
>>1929880
Look great anon, congrats!

>>1929883
>They look like the skirt that prints before the squares.
You were right anon. I was paranoid and cut it off too early. It still came out like shit though.

>>1929916
What in the name of fuck anon, that bed be wonky

>>1929924
I know, but the bed is tight. Something is weird with the travel. It feels like it has a little resistance in 2 spots when I move the bed.

>>1929916
too far away

>>1929934
I used the paper to level it. How much should it be able to move? I let it catch then backed it off slightly. Thinking about taking the machine apart and trying to square it again.

>>1929940
give every knob a quater turn counter clockwise and it could be it

>>1929926
Check your rollers

>>1929926
thats the usual flat spots on the rollers they got after factory assembly. My printers have that too, but it does not really matter.

>>1929924
>>1929934
>>1929943
>>1929949
>>1929955

Looking good now. Thanks, guys

>>1929979
Oh so those curves were by design! I thought the filament was unsticking and flapping around

>>1929989
I thought the same thing

>>1929557
thanks, but in my case (Argenzuela), even a Ender 3 pro are too expensive.
gotta make it the hard way...

>>1929555
and i learned something new today.
tnx, and checked.

Wtf are those bulging lines? Printing on a Ender 3 with Esun PLA+.

>>1929811
all thinned, don't be a brainlet

Have any of you fags ever wondered how much of the "PLA" filament bought from Chinka is actually PLA?
My guess is 30%

But WTF is the rest of the plastic shit they are passing off as PLA?

>>1930164
>But WTF is the rest of the plastic shit they are passing off as PLA?
Plastic rice. Close enough, right?

>>1930134
>thanks, but in my case (Argenzuela), even a Ender 3 pro are too expensive
My good boludo! Where are you? I'm in CABA

>>1930136
They look like the other guy with a vertical pattern. It seems to me your z-screw is wonkey, and after a certain height it binds a bit and you squish together a few layers. The vertical spacing seems to be regular; try taking a picture like this >>1925962 (preferably with the camera more level with the print).

>>1930164
Probably actual PLA, kinda 90%+, but dirty.
>>1930179
Indeed; dextrose can be extracted from rice and can be fermented into lactate, which then can be polymerised into polylactic acid (PLA).

>>1930195
>Probably actual PLA, kinda 90%+, but dirty.
No chance they are at 90%.

I know they use a filler material for up to 30% of the ChinkPLA . But I think it might actually be 0% PLA in many cases.
Maybe it is a traditional polyester

Finished a mini overhang test. It started off looking great and came out awful towards the end. I think my temps are too high because of the enclosure?

>>1930198
PLA is kinda strict due to the physical properties it is easy to notice if not right. But plastics are never a single kind of material, they are a system consisting of the main polymer and various helping agents (softener, conditioners, pigment mixes etc...) that varies by manufacturer like a secret recipe.
PLA+ on the other hand is different, it is literally normal PLA mixed with other plastics in a different plastic system. In this category anything goes, it is not unlikely to find various PLA+PETG mixes containing their own helping agents, sometimes they mix good with a special recipe, sometimes it is just lazy chink scam and just doesn't want to melt right or adhere.

>>1930211
Looks normal for PLA and seems to behave like the other anons explained above, 60° is good, starts to droop at 70°.

>>1930136
Had this exact same problem couple of weeks ago with same filament and Ender 3 Pro. Layers would bulge at semi-regular intervals and if the print was tall enough, fail at a certain height due to the nozzle not clearing the previous layer.
Like the other anon said take a look at your Z screw. Turns out I had to tighten the second screw on the cylinder that held it, also put some grease along the screw itself. Also realigned the vertical beams since there was a 1mm difference from bottom to top. Haven't had a problem since.

>>1930221
Ok thanks. I decided to print a temp tower just to check. It came out alright.

>>1930219
Forgot to add, certain pigment mixes can alter the way the conditioner agents behave or act as a conditioner agent and alter the way the plastic behaves. That is why certain colors, like silk or translucent colorations behave differently by the same manufacturer. Assuming the manufacturer is reliable of course.

Bump limit reached.
>>1930244
Do we even have companies producing PLA pellets in North America anymore?

Bros what ender 3 upgrades are worth getting off Amazon. Would like to be able to print in a carbon infused fiber in the future if possible.

>>1930250
Stiffer bed springs, wingnuts, glass bed, spare rollers, belts and nozzles.

>>1928105
Legit or pirated? If pirated then I hope you followed instructions 100%, because SW 2020 has a new licencing system

>>1930253
Yarrrrr
It be werkin' now, mate. It couldn't 'andle being installed anywhere but on sea - I mean C:\

>>1930252
>Stiffer bed springs
What kind of effect would you expect to see when using stronger springs?

>>1930263
The bed will deflect less with rapid changes in direction on the Y axis. This will lead to better print quality. The knobs will also resist loosening more (though, again, use wingnuts to keep 'em nice and locked in place).

>>1930264
>use wingnuts
what size?

>>1930276
M4

New Thread
>>1930292

https://twitter.com/Outlaw__X/status/1316962285496291335

>>1930905
BEEP BOOP
FASCIST DETECTED
INITIATE REEE.EXE

>>1930192
in the interior, of course.
and no, crossing to Paraguay or HUEzil are unavaliable/our money is WORSE THAN FUCKING YUAN.
>Living in literal dystopia
>not in the /cyb/topia
>mfw