/diy/ - Do It Yourself

So new nozzle time?
>>1919163

What's a good idea to upgrade a V2 hotend to on a large print bed where I would want to print small stuff on occassion?

>>1919173
I just dled the appimg and ran it

>>1919242
check belts and scrub screws on pulleys first plus make sure the gantries don't wobble. the walls look like an even pattern, not some random wear defects. If all else fails yes replace the nozzle, it's cheap and easy

>>1919253
Alternatively, can I mount a V6 hotend on my Chiron without masturbating with a soldering iron and with relative simplicity?

>>1919237
My print made the op and it's almost time to paint it!

>>1919174
>>1919173
Finally bit the dirty bullet and ran it through appimage and printed a knob. Yes, it has a gargantuan layer height. I was going for print speed, as it's a functional part, not necessarily something pretty.

No, not that knob. An extruder knob.

>>1918749
Didn't tune the temperature for the knob. Ran pretty good. Maybe the turboyellowjews did send me fucked filament for the sample.Maybe it worked because there's no bridges on the knob. Who knows.

>>1919260
>>1919242
This desu. The defects are too regular. I'd check for loose pulleys. Maybe it's time for you to print tensioners, or even try and replace the belts for leadscrews.

Has anybody here done that?

I'm pretty new to 3d printing and just finished my first spool. Today I replaced it with the same filament by the same company but for some reason now I am having issues with adhering to the printbed. Has this problem happened to anyone else?

>>1919277
Same color? I've heard that can also cause variances. What brand are you using?

>>1919278
Same color too. Hatchbox PLA in black, printed using a basic Ender 3

>>1919281
maybe clean the bed. How much trouble are you having, like corners lifting or just no adhesion at all? trouble spots?

>>1919285
the bed is a bit on the dirty side from the past few prints using rafts. it is a problem more so with corners, especially on the right side. I'll try cleaning/replacing the surface and see if that works

>>1919286
it seems to have helped a little bit but I am still having some inconsitency between the left and right sides. I tried levelling the bed the best I coulde but I don't think the knobs let me adjust enough for how off it seems to be

Does anyone know the name of this fuckery? I want to troubleshoot but I have no idea what this even is.
It's slightly raised and rough to the touch, only seems to happen on long flat surfaces starting from the first layer. In a way it's like the opposite of warping because the corners are sticking just fine.

>>1919295
Probably a very slight overextrusion making the layers put pressure against each other and buckling like wood floors do in humidity/temperature swells if you don't leave enough space on the edges.

>>1919277
Did you order from Amazon?
Half of the filament they sell is fake, so it is a gamble. You can get real filament or (more often) fake filament.

Left is stock Tevo Tornado hotend
Right is E3D v6 and fangbite mount

Thoughts? What could the cause for this type of warpage be?

>>1919313
I did order from amazon since it was $10 cheaper than anywhere else, didn't think they would have fake filament, thats a possibility

>>1919332
Looks to be evenly spaced so i would check the z axis for binding every rotation or so first

How do I exactly know if my belts are not tight enough? Also, I have a slider to tighten my belts for X by moving this little slider to the right, but it always was in the most extreme position anyways, so I can't even tighten the belts more. What now? Do I already need new belts? I printed maybe one kilogram so far, or a bit more. Got my first shifting layers today, though this was because the bed wasn't level anymore, I guess.

>>1919271
>what are you gonna print with your new 3-d printer?
>printer pieces
>yeah, but after that
>more printer pieces?
>i don't think you're getting the question
>no, i don't think you're getting the answer

>>1919441
Also, TIL to religiously print a brim on EVERYTHING.

Has any one else noticed any time they order from banggood they get a shit load of spam? I keep getting signed up to obviously fake porny dating sites and the latest is random names asking if I am my email name. Ordering from banggood is the only common factor

>>1919277
I had the same issue with printz pla. Ended up switching to esun and it work better. Cheap shit chink industry is full of bad quality junk. Throw the dice again and get a different brand.

>>1919333
>didn't think they would have fake filamen
How retarded are you? 75% of Amazon's products are fake.
Why do you think they are $10 cheaper than anywhere else? It's because they came out of the trash or are a chink knockoff
Really? What did you really think Amazon's business model was?

>>1919475
>banggood
>porn ads
What else did you expect from a site that sounds like a pornsite?

>>1919508
Are you a tourist? They're commonly recommended for printers

>>1919512
No shit, I know what the site is. I'm just saying in the eyes of algorithms, it's a pornsite

>>1919513
maybe it wouldn't be that way if you didn't watch so much porn?

>>1919512
>They're commonly recommended for dildos

>>1919528
That reminds me we haven't had the sex toy question this thread so far! I'll write up a template answer tomorrow morning if nobody did it by then.

>>1919412
As in a knob running length wise that pulls the tensioner pulley?
Is that stock? If not, get rid of it and settle for the T Nuts likely supplied.
New belts wouldn't hurt, not a bad idea to keep one on hand anyways. Personally I use a screwdriver to gently pry up on them, shouldn't move more than the height of the belt IMO.

>>1919529
I give it an hour.
>for the love of God just avoid PLA entirely for this. If booty bound, you underestimate the strength of that entrance.

>>1919529
The guide should be a single line.

>Fucking kill yourself.

Encouraging trannies and dumb kids to make sex toys is a bad idea. If you start enabling porn you're going to get nothing but people wanting porn. The /tg/ general is already over whelmed with that crap. This place is good for technical help and discussion on hardware. If you turn this general into tranny dildos you will drive off the helpful people and kill the thread entirely.

>>1919541
>encouraging trannies is a bad idea
Correct. You MUST bully and cast out the undesirables and fucking weirdos, as they will repel 100 normal people.

Any of you guys got a Robo R2? Just picked one up for $350 and have been having a shit time solving all of the problems (layer shifting, operating system corrupting, bad wi-fi connectivity, etc....) Thing's got a fuck ton of potential tho

>>1919554
Ah yes upload sideways just as I intended

>>1919529
I am looking forward to reading this wonderfully guidance!
Very big thank you many time!
We all learn much!

>>1919541
>>1919553
I couldn't agree more. We must make sure the guide is clearly written for smart, straight men who only intend to build sex toys for use by women.

>>1919442

I used to have to do this. Now I have no lifting whatsoever and im not sure what I did differently.

>>1919580
>Tranny thinks men need dildos to fuck women with.
How disgusting.

I just ordered a mars pro. I've heard set up is just putting a piece of paper in it and then pressing the command. Is there anything I should know as a first timer I wouldn't expect?

>>1919237

Are creality 3D printers good? They seem to be very popular nowadays.
What design does the stock extruder use? Does it still have that annoying inner PTFE tube?

>>1919630
>Are creality 3D printers good?
Yeah theyre not bad at all
>They seem to be very popular nowadays.
Because they're good and large and dirt cheap
>What design does the stock extruder use?
You mean shape? Bowden vs direct?
>Does it still have that annoying inner PTFE tube?
Yep, sadly

What reels do esun use?

>Bought reel off Amazon. It's see through and has no branding on the reel just the box. Comes with a leaflet of their catalog.

>Buy reel off eBay. Black reel with esun info on it same exact box

Both are pla+. I don't care if ones bootleg while the others real as long as both work. Just curious

Anyone here ever used those aluminum extruder replacements for the CR-10?
Do they make it easier to print flexibles?

>>1919441
NOTHING IS STICKING TO THE BED TODAY
FUCK

>>1919827
Glue stick is your friend.

>>1919834
I think I'm overextruding and the layers buckle up, but I don't have a caliper. Are there any smol sample parts that can help?

What kind of gcode post processor works best with Marlin hardware? Trying to use a drag knife but it looks like it doesn't take incremental coordinates. The shape should be ABC.

>>1919848
What are you using to generate the gcode?

Not sure, but I think this is what you're looking for
>https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html

https://www-seznamzpravy-cz.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.seznamzpravy.cz/clanek/cina-nabira-obrovsky-naskok-varuje-sef-firmy-na-vyrobu-3d-tiskaren-121789?amp_js_v=a6&amp_gsa=1&amp=1&usqp=mq331AQFKAGwASA%3D#referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From%20%251%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.seznamzpravy.cz%2Fclanek%2Fcina-nabira-obrovsky-naskok-varuje-sef-firmy-na-vyrobu-3d-tiskaren-121789

Czech here. Průša has given a short interview for our local Google equivalent, and laments the fact that Chinese big companies are outpacing his tiny company both in research and development, along with production.

Also he apparently thinks about making his own motors.

>Průša comes with Průša motors
>You have to wind the coils by yourself
>tfw Průšafags will defend it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRLJ4ylGTFc

Remelting 3d prints in salt. I wonder how this process would work with non-planar continuous carbon fiber prints?

>>1919858
Pretty based. I have an Ender 3 because mexican shithole, but I would get on board with that.

Obligatory Czech these digits joke.

>>1919841
>>1919834
It looks like printing a raft helps, but it feels like a horrible waste.

>>1919863
If Průša rolls out its own steppers it'd be pretty big, though I don't see it being too big of a game changer on anything else besides Průša printers. The way the printers are made and what sort of PR he's setting up makes it look like the best thing since sliced bread, and not much else justifies the price point premium Průša Is asking. If they rolled out a large volume FDM solution like the CR10 or the Chiron, with a base like the Chiron has, and maybe actual laser autoleveling, I'd go for that, but as it stands, Průša in my honest opinion charges premium for an average at best product.

Even their multimat from single nozzle is more for colours than for materials, which is a damn shame.

>>1919858
>in research
That's because prusa doesn't do any.

>>1919865
>for materials
Would they even fuze properly?

>>1919313
>>1919504
>Fake filament
This isn't an Amazon problem, it's a you problem. I've bought hundreds of rolls over the course of years through Amazon and have yet to get a "fake" spool. Don't try to cheap out and get cheap filament and you won't have to buy from shady suppliers who want to give you garbage.

>>1919882
There is the Mosaic Palette 2 which can apparently do multi mat pretty okay, and I'm considering one for dissolvable supports. Průša's offering is more color orientated which would be neat.

>>1919880
To give credit to Průša, he does some innovation. Can't remember any from the top of my head tho.

>>1919580
The funny thing is I'm pretty well versed in silicone casting but have nobody to do it for. I'd jump at the chance if given though

>>1919889
>>1919865
Multimaterial from single nozzle isn't a mechanical problem, it's a chemical and physical one. If you try to extrude dissimilar materials from the same nozzle, you either need to purge a shitton or you'll get bad layer adhesion because of the mixed materials

>>1919894
The Palette actually makes a purge block, which is super neat. Also, PVA would work in theory where PLA and PVA have similar enough work temps and you can dissolve PVA in water.

>>1919899
It's not the working temp that's the issue. They won't stick to each other. You'll end up with a mess on the print bed.

>>1919910
So my usual printing process. But wouldn't that invalidate a multinozzle setup the same way?

>>1919892
you're not "it's not a shoe insert" anon are you? because I wouldn't say "well versed"

>>1919848
I was using Freecad to generate the path. I think there may be a problem there. I need to dump gcode into EMC2 or something else to see if I can simulate the problem.

>>1919888
>shady suppliers who want to give you garbage.
Yeah, that's definitely Amazon.

Amazon would completely collapse as a company if it couldn't sell fakes and cheap chink shit marked up by 500% from Alibaba prices.

>>1920004
That looks like the machine or tool isn't properly configured. Like the step size is way out of wack.

>>1920026
Agreed. I haven't bought anything from Amazon in 2 years since I found Aliexpress. Most of my chinkshit gets to the US in two weeks, some extending up to 5 weeks (which sucks and sometimes I'll go to Walmart or fry's if I really need it). Quality of life has greatly increased at a fraction of the cost.

>>1920035
Is there a way to see on the Ender 3 what line of code is being executed while it is running?

I have a CR10, the hotend is hot garbage. it will cost me as much if not more to buy or build a stock style hotend. should I just jump into this or what bros?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081Q26RVN

>>1919237
Yo guys, I've been printing with FDM for a while now but I've been thinking of getting into resin printing for miniatures and I just got a message from a store that the the Creality LD-002R LCD Resin 3D Printer is on sale for just 160 euros. Is it a good machine to buy? Its about 300 euros usually.

>>1920036
I've honestly had less problems buying (especially electrical related crap) from the chinkshit sites than I have from amazon.

amazons customer support is the worst pack of street shitters I have ever dealt with.

>>1920095
the reason I took the sticker off was, because the Z stop was wired facing out. this machine has been a fucking headache.

Been whipping out parts non-stop lately. I've got my settings in Cura decent, but I CANNOT get print quality and anchoring anything even remotely close to as nice as the pre-cut FGC9 files were.
Am I retarded? Or did they just do some really good settings in some program other than Cura?

>>1919441
TIL:
>i have shitty bed adherence
>>maybe glue stick or hairspray
>the printed pieces warp up
>>change bed temp?

>>1919537
The tensioner pulley is at the max, it can't go further. If I already need new belt, I'll out that into a review on AliExpress.

>>1920128
Today's loot:
>one spaghetti
>two usb holders (one for the sponge and nozzle cleaner)
>spaghetti
>tool holder so i don't hoard them on a ziplock bag
>warm spaghetti
>phone holder (warped)
>vomit on my sweater already, mom's spaghetti
>fan vent (wrong model, will have to carve it)
>more spaghetti
>rafts and brims
>back to spaghetti

Thinking about getting into 3d printing as a hobby. Does the Anycubic Mega S go on sale under 239? Also, do I need to buy anything extra to get this working well? If so, are there any options that are complete so I don't have to hunt down all the parts?

>>1920124
>Or did they just do some really good settings in some program other than Cura?
Yes.
If you are failing so badly then you need to find a profile made by someone else with the same printer and get an identical slicer version as them.

>>1919865
Prusa is premium not because it's premium but because it's not cheap chink shit. In an industry where everything is below average and you need luck to get by, a decent luck roll is worth the extra price to some people.

>>1919888
How do you know if it's fake or not? And does it really matter? If you pay your money and get filament of a quality you like then what's the issue?

>>1920065
Octoprint.

>>1920165
Just get the ender 3.

>>1920168
Other people's profiles tend to work poorly in my experience. Everyone gave me worse results than the stock cura prfile. Those profiles are fixing their printers quirks not yours.

>>1920172
>Just get the ender 3
Don't I need to buy a bunch of stuff like heated bed, etc to get high quality prints?

>>1920168

I wouldn't say I'm failing horribly, but I'm definitely not getting the perfect prints with perfect finish and supports that pop right off with almost zero residue. I've tried copying small parts from the pre-cut files with my own profile, tinkering and just can't get the same quality finish as the pre-cut files. Especially the way they do the skirt, you practically have to use a razor to get them off the flexible magnetic bed.

>>1920174
You clearly haven't done your research. Ender 3 has a heated bed and it prints good quality. A stock ender 3 is a solid machine. The only upgrade I would consider vital is a flexible print surface and thats 10 bucks.

>>1920182
Honestly that doesn't look bad. Can you post examples of what is failing? Also, based printing project.

>>1920174
the ender3proX is on sale on banggood witn 1-week-shipping for 180€ atm and comes with an extra glassbed, flexible magnet mat plus the silent board preinstalled.
mine did really good out of the box, recommended it to an irl-friend and his is on its way too

>tfw made a lithopane
>light doesn't shine through
Shit, how thick are the ones you guys have made?

>>1920105
Not only electrical crap, but I have also had Amazon metal tools like cheap pliers of cutters just break down the middle of the metal after a week of easy use.
At least with aliexpress, I am paying 5X less and expect it to be shit tier quality.

>>1920172
>How do you know if it's fake or not? And does it really matter? If you pay your money and get filament of a quality you like then what's the issue?

No, the quality is typically not as good. The quality is comparable to the chink shit you get for half the price on aliexpress.
Do you like Amazon bending you over and fucking you for a 200% markup on false pretenses?

>>1920224
>>1920165
oh, i just checked and the mega S is on sale for 174€ on ali, cant see anything that speaks against it since it already has a direct drive extruder, filament sensor and touchscreen, all nice-to-have things that dont come with a stock ender3

>>1920241
No one said the quality as as good. But if it works then it works. I wouldn't order filament from aliexpress, it probably contains aids and dead dogs.

>>1919892
Maybe we can have a separate guide on here to address your problem?

>>1919924
9/10 anons agreed it was a poorly constructed dildo

>>1920250
It's the exact same filament Amazon sells, except for 1/2 or 1/3 the price. Amazon is raping you.

What's a good source for good quality filament at under 20€/kg, PETG/ABS/PLA, in Europe?

Elegoo Saturn arrived lads, never had a 3D printer before but I already got a deal for a museum to make a prototype for some miniatures. Hopefully it all works out

>>1920262
WTF? Why would a museum ever pay you to make prototypes in a format you have no experience with? How big is your nose and does Daddy work there?

>>1920258
Do you have a link? Because everything I see on aliexpress is about the same or more expensive than what I can buy in my local microcenter

>>1919269
painted, but it turned out too...glossy. might have to go back over it with matte.

>>1920268

>>1920264
They need someone that can print high quality prints and I happen to have a resin printer. I volunteer at the museum, connections I guess

>>1920274
So you bullshitted your way in. I look forward to you fucking up royally and giving the general a meme.

>>1920281
Bullshitting is how you get in anon, besides I can use 3D-modelling software and I can paint stuff to make it look real well enough. I will happily prove your wrong when the NDA is up.

>>1920283
Whatever you say rabbi shlomo

MY DUDES

WHAT CHEAPO HOTEND TO GET TO GET ME TEMPORARLY BACK UP AND RUNNING AGAIN? I'm not going to use another of the stock creality hotends ever again. slightly oversized and out of bore stuff will always leak because there are so many tolerance stacking parts.

>>1920238
>At least with aliexpress, I am paying 5X less and expect it to be shit tier quality.
shit, my experience has been their tools are better than the chinkshit tools amazon sells.

like when my sister bought me a DeWalt handtool set from amazon for Christmas. the black chrome one, it was a flash sale. the entire thing was fake. not just fake either, like printed backwards packaging and missing parts like giga-chinkshit. then trying to get the poojeets that sound like raccoons in the trash to refund her, took threats by visa to get the fucking money back.

the big fucking craftsman set from last year that DHGate was selling for $80 was legit craftsman, but for non USA markets, with a much better built toolbox than the American one.

>>1920238
The worst thing about Amazon is how they try to hide where the product comes from. You wouldn't know something comes straight from China except for the long shipping time.

>>1920186
Cool thanks

>>1920224
>banggood
Isn't this shop a bit hit or miss?

>>1920097
It's okay for the price I guess, nothing special, same price range as Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon with pretty much the same quality so you could consider it bait, the official price has been 300 and Creality themselves sold it for 200 from day 1.
If you also want to use it for any functional prints I'd skip it and get some monochrome LCD printer, for minis it's okay. If you don't want to spend more I'd rather wait for some monochrome printer, or maybe check out the Phrozen Sonic Mini, I've seen that one for 200 on discount before and it's much more worth it for the price.

love the google shearch

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/discount/WER0F6JN8WBP?redirect=%2Fproducts%2Fcreality-3d-cr-10-v2-3d-printer
the CR10 V2 for $419 with the coupon WER0F6JN8WBP is that a good price?

>>1920338
for me it was really good most of the time, i got my printer, bmg-clone, fans and other stuff from there. EU warehouses delivered within a week, chinese ones in about 2 weeks so rather quick
only item that didnt arrive was a pack of 3.5mm jacks and that was ordered right when corona hit europe

>>1920360
Do you think there will be another printer out soon that could be the "new ender 3" so to speak? I don't mind waiting for a better model.

Is there any diy cartesian 3d printers that use a single z axis stepper? I have a weird idea of mounting a stepper pointing up on top in the middle of the crossbar with a stay going down to slide rails on each side where the dual steppers would normally be.

quick question: I try to home my x axis via button in Pronterface. But my Z axis starts to move first. Why?
What do I have to change in marlin?
This is home built machine - it is not in working condition yet.

>>1920366
>>1920366
Ultimaker style machine have only 1 z stepper motor. I think I have also seen some printers with dual z leadscrew, that is connected with belt to single stepper motor

>>1920385
wasn't an early mendel done with a dual z leadscrew? what issues did that have to abandon the design.

>>1920350
XK12E1WPZG3H also $30 off on the Ender 5 Pro

>>1920390
Ultimakers didn't develop from the Mendel. They have a completely different kinematic, they're more like H-bots.

Actual Mendel successors like the i3 kept the dual z leadscrews.

>>1920363
the ender3 V2 just came out, thats probably why the normal e3p is so cheap now. the difference between the two are mostly upgrade parts which you could also print at home or get for cheap.
>better model
either you wait for a sale for an ender5, get the anycubic mega s or look for a prusa i3 clone.
technology-wise the next new thing will be the one that prints on a running belt, that'll be way more expensive tho.

>>1920401
>the ender3 V2 just came out
>the difference between the two are mostly upgrade parts which you could also print at home
Recent old-Ender 3 owner here, do you have a pointer to those new parts? Should I just check the repo?

>>1920285
>be mad that he bullshitted his way into the gig
>don't believe he even got the gig

pick a fucking lane m8

>>1920401
Thanks. I was thinking about getting the V2 yesterday, but the deal ended. I'll wait for the 5 or mega S. I don't think I want to do resin printing due to the fumes.

I'm just starting out. Ordered an Ender 3 last night. Have a few things I genuinely need to prototype.

I use linux so I'm looking into Blender and FreeCAD. Blender seems quite bloated but overall quite attractive. FreeCAD seems slim and pretty irritating so far (weird camera restrictions, runs on Python 2.7 (what the actual fuck!?))

Anyway, what's y'alls opinion of Blender vs FreeCAD?

>>1920475
What are you talking about?
Blender is much leaner than FreeCAD.

FreeCAD is what you want for functional parts, blender for figurines and shit.

>>1920234
2-3mm

>>1920475
I've been using FreeCAD for a few weeks and it's pretty good. The only real problems I have is a lack of free rotation and that it's finnicky with updating complex parts if I go and edit the size of one of the base shapes.

>>1920265
Stop fucking promoting Amazon.
I don't care if you or your brother or your cousin is an underpaid worker there.
Everyone knows they are a terrible, fraudulent company conning people into buying cheap chink shit for sky high prices.
Go look for yourself. I am not doing your shopping for you.

>>1920281
>Got a job with a university's VR lab because I used the same engine they did for a few weeks
>Performance praised every step of the way
>Got a 3d printer to mess around with and maybe make some upgrades for the house
>Now make space hardware for a living and am in charge of the 3D printing lab at my company
Bullshitting your way through everything is how it works, anon. Don't be salty because you're not smart enough to figure out how to explain your skills would benefit an employer

>>1920441
>pick a fucking lane
Fuck your faggotty lanes. I drive wherever I damn well please.

>>1920383
Z Safe Homing

>>1920491
>explain your skills would benefit an employer
That's boomer speak for lying your ass off to tell a potential employer what they want to hear.

>>1920497
I support the anon getting business with the museum, but to imagine that your technical, social or communication skills play any role in getting you a job in our psuedo-intellectual woke-fake meritocracy is pure dumbassery and boomer-think.

Where to buy filament in Europe?

>>1920503
What country? Any specific filament?
3djake.com (or your country code ), 3d prima, amazon, ebay....

>>1920505
Generic PLA and PETG, Finland specifically.

>>1920259
3djake is my goto shop, ships from austria, free shipping over 50€. Not under 20/kg tho, their pla is 21.99/kg if I recall correctly.

>>1920490
I never said anything about amazon you retard. I just wanted a link to the cheaper than microcenter filament.

>>1920475
>I use linux
If you into programming, you should check out openScad.
Can't speak for freecad, but blender is pretty good if you learn keyboard shortcuts. Seemed a bit difficult for engineering type things to me but that could be that I learned from an artist

>>1920523
>>1920505
Yeah seems to be 22€/kg, I guess I'm fine with it if it's good quality and the shipping is free but I'd prefer something like 16€/kg

Has anyone tried buying filament from this Motedis place? Seems to have extremely low prices but a bit high on the shipping costs for outside Germany, if you lived in Germany it would be great.
https://www.motedis.com/shop/3D-Filaments/3D-Filament-PET-G-175mm-schwarz::7953.html

>>1920523
>>1920537
It is 20€/kg if you take 8kg roll.
Or 2.2kg Colorfabb PLA Economy (19,3€/kg)

For 16€: ebay maybe amazon. Or check some local manufacturers and pay cash (no tax)?

>>1920498
Even if you're the best in the world at what you.do, nobody's going to hire you if you're a fucking pain in the ass and can't work well or cooperate with others. At least, not the GOOD jobs. No shortage of minimum wage positions that take snarky assholes on

Is the Longer LK4 any good? There's a deal on it atm for $157

>>1920154
My printer is starting to look "dressed", and more like a finished product than chink shit cobbled together from profiles. I'm liking the contrast between the white and black parts.
Today's loot:
>cable clips with a 50% installation survival rate
>filament spool clip
>SD and mini-usb hole flanges for tighter holes and a z-limit switch, all of which i had to butcher to fit my printer
>a few rafts
>surprisingly little spaghetti
TIL:
>i have to get my caliper back or buy a new one
>i have to measure stuff before printing, and check whether i have to modify it
>a raft with few layers but full layer thiccness helps shit stick to my bed
I still have yet to go out and buy stick glue or hairspray. I have also been recommended blue printers' tape.
What could I do with the warping?
>hotter or colder bed
>hotter or colder nozzle
>more or less fan
>fan shroud

>>1920495
>>1920383
Not him but I'll extend his explanation:
It tries to ensure you don't bump into shit, for example if you have a print halfway done.
Leave it like that.

Is recycling filament a meme or is it worth it to keep failed prints/rafts/skirts etc? I print exclusively PLA if it matters.

>>1920701
Both. Making your own filament is an excercise in futility unless you absolutely can't get your hands in new filament at all, but you can remelt it into simple shapes like sheets and boards.

>>1920682
Looking good. Just a friendly reminder that it is the practice of r*editors to not have anything useful to make and only print "improvements" for their printers.

>>1920726
Indeed, I'm just practicing with the stuff for the printer until I get repetitive decent quality. I'd hate to toss away a DnD minifig because of some shifted layers, while a cable clip that ended up ugly can just be tucked away.

I have had a 3d printer for a few months now and was wondering where is the best place to learn how to create my own STL files. I would greatly appreciate any pointers.

I just bought the Ender 3 V2 and a roll of 1.75mm filament off banggood. What are some things I should do when I get it?

>>1920503
AliExpress
>>1920701
I'll keep my waste, until I have 50-100kg. Then I might go for recycling. HDPE can also be mixed with PLA, and some bottles and caps are made out of that.
>>1920728
/3dcg/ and Youtube channels on modelling?

Still no good answer: >>1919412

>>1920270
Looks like it might snap. Have you considered printing it sideways so the stress is coplanar to the layers?

I have this issue when printing with 0.3 layer height, 10% infill, 50mm speed. The outer layers seem to just peel off from the object

>>1920819

>>1920682
>bed adhesion
for pla 60°C is where it basically welds to the bed for me, maybe reduce the z-distance and increase the first layer thickness for better adhesion
>warping
no cold airflow near the printer, other than that brims are enough for me
>>1920540
that shop looks a bit wonky to me, they have a small selection of 1.75mm filament and the pet-g description has some grammatical errors like translated chinesium. might give it a try when my petg runs out.
>>1920819
this looks like my shitty pla that shows both over- and underextruding signs at the same time no matter which temp i print it on. hope some anon here can give some pointers

>>1920819
>>1920826
>this looks like my shitty pla that shows both over- and underextruding signs
I thought the same when seeing that, I had really shitty filament that was ranging from 1.68 mm to 1.79 mm in diameter.
I gave it to my niece with one of these 3D print pens for kids, that was the best thing I could figure out to do with this crap.
Could also be filament that has been unevenly mixed by the manufacturer and occasionally clogs the nozzle and causes this over‐ and underextrusion mix.
>>1920820
I'd also check the belt because the print seems to be more stable on the right side of the picture and completely fucked on the left.
Also seems to be printed too hot, although I don't think going lower will bring you radical improvement, the main issue is somewhere else.

>>1919827
Level the bed and clean it with some paper towel and alcohol, worked for me

>>1920301
>hide where the product comes from
there ought to be a law

>>1920826
> they have a small selection of 1.75mm filament and the pet-g
Yeah they used to have a wide array of all the basic filaments like half a year ago, not sure what happened to them.

>>1920802
I did, but it feels solid, so I'm going to run it until it breaks.

Friends, how do you cure big SLA prints?

My model is 20cm and the Wash and Cure stations I've seen are all smaller than this(are they any good even?). No sunlight outside either. Should I just get a UV lamp?

>>1920875
You can still cure under cloud cover, it just takes longer. I'd personally just buy a roll of UV LEDs, some aluminum tape and foamcore and build a cure box, but I'm crafty like that.

>>1920875
Wash and cure stations are memes.
Buy a proper UV lamp for less, put it in a box, cover the inside with reflective foil, maybe add one of those UV powered turntables and you're done.
I just returned my Anycubic wash and cure station and I am legit ashamed of ever buying one.
the only thing they're good at is looking nice next to your printer.
They're shit for cleaning and can't beat a ultrasonic bath anyways.

So has e3d changed the thermistor that comes with the v6 recently or did I get sold a shitty knock off?

The bloody thing was returning temps that were 30 degrees C above what the actual temps were. Its working perfectly now after putting in a custom table but I don't understand how it could be so far off?

>>1920913
Have you considered that your old one was junk, or that your old software settings were? You may very well have a knockoff though, or a badly QC'd example.

>>1920911
>>1920908
Cool, box it is then. Thanks

>>1920911
Do you use an ultrasonic bath as well? Was looking at one but larger ones are pretty pricey.

>>1920914
>Have you considered that your old one was junk, or that your old software settings were?
Well they worked perfectly with the chinese clone - still do actually. I had before I convinced myself into buying the "genuine e3d". Could have damaged it when installing it I guess.

>>1920915
I was lucky enough to buy one before the Wu-Flu shit started, after it went down prices doubled.
Been searching for another Anon before, but my 50$ chinkshit ultrasonic cleaner now costs up to 200$ now and is even sold out most of the time.
Dunno how to help you there, maybe check the second hand market.

>>1919554
your hobby is getting bougie
mp mini delta.
used.

>>1919554
>350$
>wifi
Red flag

>>1920913
>>1920918
Maybe the firmware has a +30C modifier in there to deal with the original sensor giving out incorrect readings?

>>1920949
>>1920913
Maybe the different parts have different calibrations

>>1920868
Just curious; what material is it, and have you tried annealing? I think I forgot to ask you last thread

I need some help. Does anyone know why is this happening?
Extruder has actually moved away from the cube and then back, to draw those lines. It happened multiple times. And they are not in the gcode.
(Ignore the layer shift at this moment)
It must have to do with something in firmware. But I don't know what?

>>1921015
here's the gcode. There is no travel outside the cube

>>1920959
pla, no annealing 100% infill

Wow did the jannies really delete the post of the dude asking for help on his FGC gun even though it was related to DIY and 3DPG and followed the rules?

>>1921015
Could be a corrupt gcode/ SD card. Have you tried slicing it again

>>1921015
That's the result of how the slicer handles the "minimum layer time" setting. In some slicers minimum layer time on a part of the print that is too small, the travel rate of the printer will slow down to where the total travel distance over that minimum time frame will meet the requirement.
In other slicers the printer prints universally at the maximum print speed, and any layer that finishes "too fast" compared to the minimum setting will result in the print head going to a neutral locations and pausing for the remainder of the interval.

You can either shorten the minimum layer time, or see if there are other relevant options that prevent the pause/dwell.

>>1921030
I did. But I used same sd card. I will try to find different one.
>>1921031
That was my thought at first, but that would be seen in the gcode? Gcode looks completely fine >>1921017

>>1920826
>>>1920682
>>bed adhesion
>for pla 60°C is where it basically welds to the bed for me
Did it, seems to be improving the situation, thanks!
>maybe reduce the z-distance
Haven't tried that yet, will look
>and increase the first layer thickness
Desu, included that in the raft yesterday and helped. Good to know I'm not too crazy. Have yet to include it in the models.
>>warping
>no cold airflow near the printer, other than that brims are enough for me
Would a hotend fan shroud count as cold or as warm? Would it be counter-productive? I printed one but went back to the factory vent as it was a bit tilted, grabbed a wrong model. I may try another shroud.

Cura tries to print a couple of lines at the beginning of the program. It tried to print on air, and I used to fish the filament out by hand. I modified the G-code in my printer profile so it prints them on the bed instead, and now the first line on the model sticks properly. I guess the initial lines' purpose is to form a nice molten head,

With a 60°C bed and a brim or thicc first raft layer, the situation is improving. Still, on sharp corners or U-turns in the brim, raft, and first layer after the raft, the filament curls up.

Also, I'm having to recalibrate the bed daily. Maybe the knobs are drifting; I'll try printing detents.

>>1920726
I'm printing a Torino for my grandpa and for you anon.

>>1920526
It's a website! Do a search! REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>1921047
typical answer, So there isn't any filament cheaper than what I can get in store.

>>1920591
>Thinks snarky assholes are not getting undeserved good jobs. Still believes it is 1970 when social skills, tech skills and being social had any impact on your ability to get a job.
OK boomer.

>>1921048
Send me your address and give me a few weeks.
I will fly there, check your store, return, do some online searching and shopping and get back to you with a comprehensive list of your price options and analysis of the quality of each of those purchases.

>>1921051

>>1921021
Ahem
Fuck the jannies

>>1921065
Based. What material? Any warping issues during the print?

>>1920726
Are you happy anon? I am.

I scaled it down 50% to jew down on time, and I think I won't be able to mount axles. Maybe I'll buy a couple of really thin needles and melt them in.

>>1921092
Looks like you parked your car in mexico.

Is there a good way to get the bottom more consistent, flat and smooth? There is some minor geometry in here so I don't want to just have to sand the shit out of it. I used line supports more or less as indicated. They were originally 90º following the posts orientation but I rotated them. Cura / PLA / 190º if any of that matters.

I just want a better option for the next test print, so it comes out closer before I sand. Thoughts?

>>1921111
Tree supports do magic for me. Might be worth a try.

>>1921065
Based and murrica pilled

What causes this?

>>1921108
I'm from Argentina, so it just looks like Tuesday

>>1921126
Looks like you're skidding on one axis. Maybe check belt tension.

did this in fusion360 today. print in place worked pretty good except for the elephant footing you can see on the rough edge.

>>1921153
Looks pretty anon, congrats!

>>1920729
I recently bought an older Ender 3, and this is what I learned so far:
>check ALL the carriages for wobbliness
>60ºC bed and 200?ºC nozzle for PLA
>brim or raft everything with 0.28mm layers independently of model size, at least initially
>>if raft, one bottom, one middle, and one top layer with no extra raft is enough
>>if brim, 5mm is enough
>warm bed up for ~30m and THEN calibrate bed if you haven't printed anything in over 10h
>clean bed every ~3 prints or if above (preferably every print) with alcohol and a microfiber (preferably isopropyl)
>stick glue, hairspray, or blue painters' tape are your friends
>the sample filament creality sent you may leave strings and may not be enough for anything

>>1921069
ABS. It is warping like a motherfucker. The receiver came out good, but the finer details and measurements are shit. The smaller parts are hell to print in ABS, so I'm doing those in PLA.

I'm the guy from a fee threads back that got the MakerBot Replicator 2X for free. I gotta say, for a machine designed to print ABS, it sucks ass at it. I'm not sure if I need to fix something or just keep trying to dial in the temps.

>>1921116
Ghost Guns(R)

>>1921177
When's your next boating acc^Wtrip anon?

>>1921112
much better but still spaghetti bottom. at least I can iron this mess flat.

That was close

>>1921192
oof

>>1921192

>>1921108
Is California officially part of Mexico yet or have they just adopted the culture and language?

>>1921111
Rotate 90 degrees and reprint your dildo?

>>1921126
>What causes this?
Corona virus or AIDS

So let me get this straight this is everything I need to get started right?
>Printer
>Filament
>Computer
>Rubbing alc (Cleaning)
>Slicer software
>3d Modeling software

>>1921231
Patience and spare time.

>>1921233
Damn that's a bit expensive let me run the budget numbers again.

>>1921231
gluestick as well. It's a cheat mode but it's easy as shit to clean off afterwards.

>>1921243
Anotheranon here. How do I cleaned gluestick off the bed?

>>1921245
It dissolves with water

>>1921165
>>1920682
Today's loot:
>frame clips for the faggot ribbon display cable, with a surprising 100% installation survival rate
>an y-axis pulley guard with a 0% installation survival rate that i'll have to reprint with a better layer orientation
>more filament spool clips
>z-axis and control knobs
>an allen wrench holder
>a torino with its wheels apart ready for sanding and painting with my grandpa's livery
TIL:
>i still have yet to get a caliper or ruler
>a hotter bed makes shit stick to it like crazy once it sticks and indeed reduces warping
>complex shapes still have a shit time sticking to the bed and still need a raft

>>1921231
I have been printing daily for a year and a half, but have never cleaned the printer or used rubbing alcohol

>getting reliable print for a while now, nice
>printed tpu for the first time, came out really good too
>yesterday i noticed the quality runs away a bit
>finish rc-chassis prints, start the next one
>BEEP BEEP BEEP
>lowtemp error, display shows -14°C
time to troubleshoot the thermistor
or not as my volcano is supposed to arrive today

>>1920401
biggest (probably most worthwhile) upgrade is the silent mobo on the v2, although i just went with the e3 mini v2.0 and it's been brilliant.

>>1921386
What did you make with the TPU? I got a roll a while back, but haven't even opened it yet. Hard time finding the use for it besides the standard dildo with a PLA core. Also, is it a pain in the ass to use?

>>1921417
the tires in the pic are made from tpu, its the sunlu with 95A hardness i asked about last thread. it worked on the first try, i'm printing pretty slow tho at 20mm/s/ 0.2mm. The top-left tire was the first one, its a bit decolored from leftover filament in the nozzle
>>1921386
>took apart hotend
>visible corrosion in the insolation
>wire slowly but surely broke
would explain the drop in quality i got, that will be fun to solder

What is the most trusty printer able to print 2 colors?
I dont want to support jewseph.

>>1921424
>would explain the drop in quality i got, that will be fun to solder
Solder can melt at the temperatures that it gets exposed to there. You need to crimp it or use special high-temp solder.

>>1921428
the solderjoint is a bit up, next to the heatbrake, shouldnt get that hot as i only print up to 235°C
then again its only a temporary fix until the volcano-hotend gets delivered
if it fails on the current print i'll leave it as is
>crimp
wouldnt that induce some more resistance and throw off the thermistor-readings?

>>1921432
A proper crimp connection has very low resistance.
And it's much more appropriate to use here, not only because of the temperatures (remember that the metal leads will conduct heat well) but also because the joint will be under constant stress from movement and vibrations. Crimped connection are much more resistant to that.

Your thermistor is probably already crimped at the other end (on the JST/DuPont connector they usually use).

whats a good walkthrough for the complete upgrade path to a direct drive extruder and hotend for the cr10? like a parts list that still has live links. the bed level thingy would be nice too. my stock one has factory stripped and frozen grub screw on the heat element, and I would rather just get something better.

i have a fresh pack of the bulb thermistors and the heater cartridges for it already.
>>1921065
>>1921116
based to the AR-15th degree.

>>1921443
https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Extruders-MakerBot-Filament-Supported/dp/B07C3ZVZ41

what else do I need to put this on my cr10, and have it running?

this? https://printermods.com/products/direct-drive-mod-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10?variant=17446582911047

>>1921443
>DD
there are printable DD-adapters on thingiverse, i'm using one with my e3p and a pancake motor+bmg-extruder-clone, dont lose any printingvolume.
>hotend
take any you like, i ended up ordering a volcano-hotend clone
>bed leveling
i have a 3dtouch on the way, its the 10€ version of the BLtouch
if you wait a few days/ week(s) i'll report back how my chinesium knockoff upgrades are working

Has anyone ever fucked with water cool hot ends? I really want to give them a shot to see how quiet I can make my printer and I'm also planning on buying or making an enclosure so it wouldn't be a bad idea in the first place. There's two or three on Amazon for about 30 bucks, and then I just saw this monstrosity for 70 and I'm really considering it although I would need to get three more extruders and heaters and then figure out how to make it work when my skr only supports one

Good day gentlemen,

I have a CR10s Pro V2 and it prints PLA+ filament extremely well (pic related - my protective ball for my drone.)
However, I am trying to print with PLAflex and I'm not having very much luck. Would one of you kind individuals be able to point me in the right direction? I've tried a few Simplify3D profiles from reddit but they're all utter shit.
Ideally, I want to print PLA+ for armour, and PLAflex to complement the armour plating. Thank you in advance.

>>1921542
>PLAflex
i only learned of it earlier today, no idea how to do that, as its flexible my best bet is to print slow
>armour
have you looked into petg or nylon for that use case? petg has better impact resistance compared to pla and is a bit flexible, nylon is stronger overall but harder to print.
really nice cage anon

>>1921542
>ball
Looks real good for protecting the propellers! What's your experience with catching it, beyond "not grabbing it and instead palming it"? Have you considered any way to IP20 it?

>>1921542
How much does that cage weigh?

>>1921354
>I have been printing daily for a year and a half, but have never cleaned the printer or used rubbing alcohol
Pic of your filthy bed please

Threadly reminder to never buy a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 :) or any 'Pro' model. Fuck Chinks.

>>1920729
Good luck getting a refund if the product is faulty. Banggood love scamming.

>>1921633
How did they fuch you in particular anon?

>>1921231
actually you can stop after printer and filament. most printers come with a model to test print. since you didn't mention what "started" means, then yeah, all you need is the first two and a consistent power source most often known as a house or apartment.

otherwise you need:
>printer (*also needs power)
>filament
>slicer software for which you need
>computer for which you need
>aforementioned power
then you can download all your models from thingaverse or similar for which you need
>internet

I would add blue painters tape and some print removal tools to the list, plus a nice pair of small pliers and xacto for cleanup of the support material. I do 96% of my cleanup with pic related, they're jewelry sized and have teeth. I have dozens of other pliers both small and large but these are about the only thing I ever wind up using.

PS. I'm going to add eyes to the list. I don't know how tf you'd navigate the print menus on any printer without eyes.

>>1921542
>and I'm not having very much luck
stop relying on luck and pay attention to what the fuck is going wrong.

I'm calling this done. I could round the top of the button and tweak the clip to be tighter but this is the 4th iteration of a complex piece and it finally works as intended with no interference. The dirty brown is because I didn't wipe off my burnishing tool and the residue burnt while preheating (god dammit). In any case, several hundred dollars and many hours to save a $7 water bottle: achieved.

Button

I replaced my ender 3 hot end with a direct drive. The cooling fan is making a buzzing noise (not constantly) from vibration. It stops when you touch it. Any clue how to stop it? Tried tightening all the screws and it didn't help.

The extruder also seems to be at a slight angle but it's printing fine. Can this cause any complications in the future?

So is it best practice to remove the glass plate from the print bed after each finished print? This silicone stuff peeled off with the glass plate after I pryed it off. Is there a name for the silicone stuff to fill it in with or will it have to be replaced entirely?

>>1921686
Well, at least you didn't just get a 3D printer to print upgrades for your 3d printer.
Looks nice.

i'm going to try 3d printing a mold for creating a gypsum cast around this diy hot plate. two questions: has anyone itt done printed molds? and how do i confidently stop this flimsy piece of shit (1.6mm base and walls) from deforming on the print bed? glue stick?

>>1921725
i cant think of a reason to ever take it off except you need a flexible mat or want to put the glassbed into the dishwasher

>>1921728
Come on anon, don't be mean. I told you I'm using them to prectice until I get a consistent good quality, and I did print a cute little model of my grandpa's old Torino

>>1921759
So you're
>3D printing a mold
>to cast gypsum
>to make a block
>to ???

if you're casting the hot plate itself into the gypsum then you don't need 3D printing in the first place - the outside dosen't need to be a perfect size and shape.

as for the deforming make it not a flimsy piece of shit, use a brim, thicker walls, buttresses and don't print the floor.

>>1921761

>>1921799
>how about no
I still love you though

>>1921728
I bought a 3d printer to print upgrade parts for my DIY CNC milling machine, which are just 3d printer upgrades but bigger.
The milling machine will be used to make parts for the 3d printer.

>>1921809
Which you then use to make 3D printed parts you sell to others to upgrade their printers so you can buy another printer to print upgrades for. It's the Russian doll of 3D printing.

>>1921809
Discardedanon here, do tell more

>>1921612
My bed is clean. I just heat it up to 110 and gently scrape off any residue between prints.

>>1921669
>ll you need is the first two and a consistent power source most often known as a house or apartment.
And what if we are homeless or living in a tent? Is there a good mobile or solar power supply?

>>1921759
Why is it desirable to have a gypsum exterior to your hot plate?
Yes, I have been playing around with molds too.
What are your print specifications for your mold?

>>1921793
Maybe he wants multiple copies of the gyspum box or consistent replacements easily available.

>>1921799
Imagine what Clint Eastwood would have done with a 3D printer!

>>1921821
no, but there are plenty of outlets and wires you can jack. just needs to be in a place where your printer can run for several hours - so not where you charge your phone.

>>1921826
Probably give it to a spic like he did his car.

>>1921825
then the print he drafted is bad in more ways than just being flimsy. also if it's just a block the hotplate isn't really involved. but I don't know, why don't we wait for him to explain more clearly before jumping on my shit for trying to help?

>>1921838
It was a gook not a spic you wog

>>1921861
Sorry, I'm not american. All you little brown people look the same to me.

>>1921863
Hello Achmed Johannson

>>1921867
That's mr Stevie Wonder to you brown dwarf.

>>1921873
Salami allah's cum or whatever

>>1921015
I solved one thing; Processor was overloaded. Screen was also unresponsive during printing. I guess 5400 steps/mm for extruder are too much for 8bit processor.
Is there some max number for steps/mm for 8bit processors, that print without problems?
I am running ramps 1.4 and a4988 drivers.
So, new cube; new problems:
- layer shift on Y: is there a way to put more power (torque) to the motors, I am running drivers at Vref = 1.2V and 12V PSU. Is there anything else I can do?
- inconsistent extrusion? Sides seems to be bowed-in or or corners sticking out. Also on top you can see underextrusion on straight lines and overextrusion on the edges. Is that waht linear advance is for? Or is there mechanical problem or other setting I should fix first?

>>1921761
That's someone else. I'm the original responder and think your little car looks fun.

Ordered an Ender 5 Pro to replace my Wanhao MU2. Anything I should know about it?

Is the nerf mod kingpin anon here? My nephew wants pic related and I can't find any publicly available files for it. I found something similar but it didn't have the grip just a flashlight mount.

>>1921936
It might try to kill you in your sleep.

>>1921927
Thanks anon :) I'm printing more covers now, but redoing the Y pulley cover drove the lesson into me to respect anisotropy and pay attention to layer alignment. If my current batch of axis covers (X and Z carriages) goes alright, tomorrow I'll print some pretty stuff. I have yet to start designing new stuff, but I have already installed OpenSCAD.
>>1921913
I'm new here so take this with a grain of salt
>layer shift
You could check how gritty your y-axis is. Check tension too in case your belt is skipping steps.
>extrusion
Linear advance indeed

>>1921952
Good thing I don't sleep

>>1921958
>but I have already installed OpenSCAD
let me know how that goes

>>1921165
Brims and rafts are only needed if you can’t figure out how to level you bed or your X-axis carriage is loose.

>>1921974
Behold, a parametric shower curtain hook. Will refactor it with tangents and the such.

>>1921984
>Brims and rafts are only needed if you can’t figure out how to level you bed
That hurt my feelings anon desu. But guess it must be true. I printed and installed detents so the knobs don't drift but I still have to level it every time I cool it down and heat it up again and it's getting old. Maybe I'll print one of those compliant alignment indicators to bolt onto the hotend carriage to help align. I suspect the paper sheet I use to calibrate the bed is getting worn thin, and it's been just over half a week.

>>1922004
The best mods I’ve put into my Ender 3 have been
>heavy gauge bed springs
>flat glass bed
>aquanet hair spray
>Capricorn tube
I level my bed maybe once a week or less and it’s running constantly. Only level it when it’s hot. The flat bed makes prints look better on the bottom and they pop right off once the bed cools.

>>1922007
>Only level it when it’s hot
Desu, learned it the hard way
>it’s running constantly
My 'noid arse can't fathom the idea of the printer being plugged in, let alone printing, out of sight. Maybe after I upgrade the firmware.
>springs, glass bed, hairspray
Desu, in my to-do list
>tube
What's your experience with changing it? I don't think I'm having significant extrusion problems right now, but it is true that it may become a bottleneck once I improve the rest.

>>1920349
It used to be much better than it is now.
No idea what happened, now yandex is the only one running a reasonable reverse image search engine.

>>1922007
Think Got2b hairspray will work?

>>1922044
I use dollar store hairspray and it works good.

>>1922011
Any firmware that has thermal runaway protection is good to run overnight. AFCI circuit breakers and functioning fire alarms/extinguisher in your home also help you sleep at night.

As for Capricorn tube, it made a noticeable difference with stringing, bridging, and the little blobs at the end of a layer where it starts to retract before moving. Also, keeping it as short as possbile (without being so tight that it binds up at the far end of the range) helps with that as well.

And a bonus recommendation, the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 board is a drop in replacement with updated firmware, higher amperage and smoother drivers, that works right out of the box on a standard Ender 3. The end result is a printer that is significantly quieter and more resilient against skipped steps for literally 5 minutes of work. Though it’s $40 and I wouldn’t say it’s altogether necessary to get great results.

>>1922007
>heavy gauge bed springs
where did you get the springs?

Having a lot of trouble with moisture in my PLA resulting in very severe stringing and craters where water bubbles popped, even multiple days in the oven at 50C doesn't seem to fix the issue, what do?

>>1922060
Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KF9LZ2L/ref=psdcmw_16413831_t3_B07GXC1G2B

>>1922064
PLA doesn’t absorb that much moisture. ABS, Nylon, TPU do, but PLA should be fine for weeks to months out of the package. Try a different brand, maybe print at a lower nozzle temp, and up your retraction speed/distance a little bit until the stringing resolves itself.

>>1922070
What else could all the sizzling cracking and popping be if not moisture in the filament?

>>1922074
Shitty filament itself maybe. Which brand and country of origin?

>>1922075
It's rebranded Chinese garbage with the local stores brand slapped onto it, it for sure is garbage filament but surely even if it is garbage it should not be crackling and popping like it had moisture in it, what could even cause such a thing?

>>1922074
Nozzle too hot or low quality filament.

anyone here use their printer as a side gig?

Any recommendations on what webcam to get for octoprint monitoring? I feel as if the raspi camera is the easy option, but not necessarily the best.

>>1921940
I make homemades. Mods and aftermarket parts for store-bought blasters don't interest me much so the advice I can give on that part of the hobby is limited. As far as I've seen the decent printable Stryfe bodykits are paid files, and the free crap is wh40k stuff or just ugly.

I need a tutorial on how to fix the slider where the bed is attached to the axis. It drives me nuts. I might have ruined the lock nuts, but I don't know yet. I don't get it straightened.

>>1921845
>why don't we wait for him to explain more clearly before jumping on my shit for trying to help?
nah, that would be boring

>>1921936
>>1921952
This

>>1922067
>Amazon
disgusting

>>1922136
maybe

>>1921303
Today's loot:
>a little spaghetti
>a y-axis pulley guard with a 100% installation survival rate printed with the correct layer orientation
>a set of bed knob detents
>a few carriage guards
>a new fan shroud that may work
>no pretty things because I was busy with meatspace work
TIL:
>don't fear tree supports
>paying attention to layer orientation works
Yes, I still have to get some or another bed adhesion additive

>>1921303
Today's loot:
>a little spaghetti
>a y-axis pulley guard with a 100% installation survival rate printed with the correct layer orientation
>a set of bed knob detents
>a few carriage guards
>a new part fan shroud that may work
>no pretty things because I was busy with meatspace work
TIL:
>don't fear tree supports
>paying attention to layer orientation works
Yes, I still have to get some or another bed adhesion additive.

Should I increase nozzle temperature now that I have a fan shroud?

>>1922223
You should print something useful. Like a gun

>>1922238
Don't tell me about it! Last time I did it it fell overboard while I was fishing!

>>1922004
He's also wrong so stop being a pussy and learn about thermal plastic.

When plastic cools down it shrinks slightly, doesn't matter how good it is, there is always a slight shrinkage. If you're printing something with a small foot print then it will lift off the print bed slightly as it cools. On big foot prints it's not an issue because it takes so long for it to cool. But when you're printing something long and thin (like a pencil laying down for example) the cooling will pull it off the bed the longer the print goes. Rafts and brims are designed to prevent that from happening by making the foot print larger.

Using glue sticks or hair spray is what idiots do to try and compensate for it. If they used their machines properly they wouldn't need to glue things to the bed. Same way they always tell you to get glass then glue your prints to it instead of getting a magnetic flexible build plate you can lift off and flex the prints off.

3D printing has a lot of dumbasses in it. Many of them looking to make a quick buck.

Have an Ender 3, want to make a dildo. Are there filaments available that can be soft enough to be suitable for the "task", or am I better off sticking a motor in a PLA cock and making a vibrator instead.

Vaginal use. Serious question.

>>1922223
Stop blog posting. No one gives a fuck. If you have a question ask it, if you have a nice print post it. If you just want attention fuck off to facebook or r/ender3

>>1922258
PLA+ is specifically designed for dildos. Make sure you print with 0.3 layer height and only use water base lubes.

>>1922257
>If you just want attention
I don't want attention. That's precisely why I'm here. I want tips. That's why I'm posting here anonymously. If you don't care, you don't need to go out of the way to tell me you don't care. Thanks for the sentiment though.

>>1922255
Duly noted
>>1922258
First rule is don't.
Second rule is DON'T.
Third rule is maybe print a mold instead and use silicone.

>>1922263
>Wall of text
>Wall of text
>Wall of text
>Picture of a printer
Is not asking for tips.

Tips is
>I tried to print this (link) and it turned to spaghetti half way in. What caused it?
>Picture with failed print

Cura keeps crashing my PC, which is apparently a common issue with Ryzen processors. What slicing software should I use instead?

>>1922266
I have a special print in mind for you tomorrow anon

>>1922257
I like his posts, kill yourself nigger.

>>1922268
I use Ryzen and have no problem with it. Is it just specific version of cura you're having problems with?

>>1922269
I hope it's a saw so you can cut your wrists with it.

>>1922270
You're a retard. They're borderline spam and shouldn't be encouraged.

@1922271
Oh no you hurt my feefees! Here, have a not-a-(You)

>>1922272
Jesus fucking christ. It's stage 12 cancer, a stage unknown to man until now.

<<1922274 (You) must be so proud of that, how much time did it take you? Or did you have it written after tough thorough thought and were waiting for the chance to use it?

>>1922277
Nice way to make someone who tried to help you decide not to do so in the future. This generals dying as it is and you're going to end up blog posting to just yourself.

Hello glass printing people.

Any idea what is causing this and how to fix it?

0.6mm nozzle
0.32mm first layer height
18mm/s initial layer speed
80°C bed
220°C nozzle
hairspray
PLA

>>1922324
Use a proper printing surface not a meme one.

>>1922324
Ok I reduced the flow and its better now.
Tips on hof to increse the stickyness of glass? Is spray glue better thsn hairspray?

>>1922326
I hate printing on naked glass, only do it when I have to.
If I can't fix this I'll swap to buildtak again

>>1922324
Increase bed adhesion and bump up the temperature of the build plate. Your print is suffering warping.

I want to upgrade my Chiron's hotend with a V6, I found a really neat upgrade on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3512007)) , and want to print it out of high temperature PETG, which should go up to 100C safely. Three things I want to ask though.
First of all, what fans does the chiron use for part cooling and what would be a good upgrade for air volume pushed, but not necessarily noise. What would be a good upgrade to the hotend fan too?
Second of all, am I able to just plug the new hotend in to the main board on the carriage and just have it run? Am I able to recycle the heater cartridge and the thermistor from the stock hotend too? I want a simple install, but if I need to get some sotter I need to know ahead of time.
And lastly, I never printed with PETG before. Anyone has any profiles/tips/tricks for printing PETG on the chiron with the default bed?

Is it possible to 3d print a table for my ender 3 to rest on?

New Thread
>>1922437

Thank god, two full days in the oven at 60°C finally did the trick and the PLA prints well again, still hearing some very rare pops so I'll put them in the oven for yet another day after which I'll put each roll in a bag with dessicant in there.
Was really worried there for a bit because I bought four rolls of this stuff so I was worried that they'd all be garbage but I guess they were just a bit wet.

>>1922258
yes, but it is best to print a mold and use silicone

>>1922136
Yeah. I make ~$500/month selling shit on Etsy. Looking to buy another Ender 3 to print shit faster. Trick is: design your own thing and just sell assembled finished products of it. Selling files is stupid. Selling it as a service “service” you can’t compete with the commercial brands. If you sell a thing you made and market it yourself you can make a killing.

>>1922255
This is the bottom surface of a print. I’m using a lustery metallic filament and would like it to be shiny. The best option to have the bottom of a print be completely smooth and dimensionally correct is to use glass and hairspray for adhesion. All the other bed surfaces leave a rough texture in the print. It’s also incredibly easy to use and you waste absolutely no plastic on a raft or brim, but tell me again how I’m “wrong.”

>>1922652
>the bottom of a print be completely smooth and dimensionally correct is to use glass and hairspray for adhesion. All the other bed surfaces leave a rough texture in the print.
Nta, but I get smooth dimensionally correct parts with a flexible steel sheet with a pei coating and no extra bed adhesion.

>>1922750
I haven’t seen a PEI bed that doesn’t have a texture to it. Also, I hear you aren’t supposed to print things like PETG or TPU on PEI, but I haven’t seen that first hand.

>>1921049
>boomer
hue. I'm two generations down the line and not even from the US but ok w/e

Does anybody have experience with modeling linear bearings in model and printing it. I mean those plastic one for smooth rods.

Im building small 3D printer with DVD drive motors.

my cr10 has hot glued to hell wires on the board. has anyone else seen this shit? what the fuck is this? apple?

Fuck Creality.

>>1923911
Are you serious?
It's hotglue, you can pull that off, it's just for shipping safety you fucking sperg.
The average Creality customers are retards who don't know shit, if one cable would fall out during shipping they would instantly return the entire machine.