/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Going to post here before I buy upgraded mobo/send it back

I had my Ender 3 v2 for about a week, got a few prints out of it then one day I switched it on and its now been stuck on the "Creality" boot logo.

Things I have tried:
USB Powering the board
Flashing firmware
Formatting SD Card
Booting with and without SD Card
Opening up the motherboard and checking all connections were firm
Checked the voltage

Anyone here tried mattercontrol? How does it compare to cura or prusa slicer?

>>1914642
Thanks, I might consider it. But this is for printing with ABS and ASA. I want a stronger isolation for heating up the chamber to 70C or a bit more, with an extra heat element. Which means it should resist even more, since it might be hard to hit the point. Also it shouldn't loose temp through to much glass or other thin walls.
>>1914665
Planning to get some resin printer as well at some time, only for small parts like gears and pulleys. Now that I try printing mechanical parts on my FDM, I start longing more and more for a resin printer as my number 2. It can be challenging... Though, I'm just new to it.

>>1914696
>The ATF in the US aren't known for their leniency regarding homemade firearms.
>What is the 80% market
>What is people making anything from 22 zip guns and pipe shotguns to bench guns and reconstructing deactivated guns in their garages for decades now
Why are you talking out of your ass? as long as youre not a felon and the gun is FEDERALLY legal and you don't sell it 45 minutes after you build it they don't (and can't) give a flying fuck.

>>1914819
oof, just realized I did make the OP...

>>1914821
>As long as the gun is federally legal
Yeah, no shit. I was implying that he shouldn't build a gun without getting it approved.

>>1914828
>without getting it approved.
wtf does this even mean?

>>1914829
It means he's from california or not America (yes I know I listed the same thing twice) because clearly he doesn't know what the fuck he's talking about

Ultimaker is the apple of 3D printers.

>some chinaparts came today
>hotend and fans missing
>already heavy af
I should look into getting a second z-axis screw and maybe a pancake-motor. On the plus side I can now start printing tpu

>>1914837
I thought that was prusa
> Extremely expensive yet made from average Chinese parts
> Performs the same as the much cheaper competition
> Gimmicks with no purpose other than to be a selling point
> buyers fervently defend them like a cult
> Founder looks like a gayboy

What's the cheapest Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint and is it even worth setting it up? I want a way to print long prints and be able to cancel the print if it fails and I am away wage slaving.

>>1914853
Cheapest option is to just use an old laptop you have lying around.

If I wanted to sculpt something out of clay around a 3D printed skeleton and then fire it in a kiln/bake it in an oven would the sculpt be ruined by deformation from the skeleton warping? Has anyone done anything like this?

>>1914855
Yep. Rpi is best for packaging but any laptop that isn't 10 years old or a chromebook will blow it out of the water and be less of a hassle to work with.

I don't own a laptop tho

>>1914829
Lmao, it's like the guy I sold a gun to a few week ago. I asked if he wanted a bill of sale (I don't care because the constitution doesn't care) and he said "yeah, I'll register it". Like what does that even mean. I live in a free State.

To stay on topic, what do you think is the best plastic to print a receiver with? I read all sorts of things like PLA is the strongest when/for... ABS is the strongest when/for... Etc. Nylon answers need not apply.

>>1914847
This was my understanding too.

>>1914857
Well considering you fire clay at five or six times the temperature of the hottest printing plastics, I'd say you wouldn't even get far enough into it to bother taking stuff like that into consideration because you're working on a flawed premise

>>1914865
In that case might as well just get whatever the latest flavor of pi 4 is with the most ram because from what I've heard old pi 3s are extremely slow trying to use them as octoprint slaves.

>>1914868
Poly clay is much cooler than traditional clay @ about ~350F/190C degrees for 30 minutes

>>1914847
Czechfag here, the printing shop owner I frequent told me a few times Průša is literally shaking about Samsung taking his by the ass and bending him over. I wish it happens sooner than later.

>>1914866
IIRC PLA might not be the best idea since muh heat and wear, ABS is kinda fragile, and Nylon is a bitch, maybe dicking with metal infused plastic might be a good idea.

>>1914874
Samsung makes 3d printers?

>>1914874
What's all this about Samsung raping Prusa?
Does Prusa deserve it? I thought he had a reasonably good rep on here?

>>1914877
I think they make dildos

>>1914877
IIRC Samsung is in the enterprise space.
>>1914880
Průša is literally the Apple of printers, and a good few people really don't like his meme tier marketing making himself out like he's the best thing since fucking sliced bread. Out here, most people with Printers don't even do Průša, 99% of the time it's Enders. Průša costs a fucking premium with little benefit. For example, I can get an Ender 3 with a half of my month's sallary (Nurse here, relatively middle class), and have it at home next day, whereas original Průša costs at least twice as much as my monthly pay is and the waiting line is two to three fucking months.

>>1914885
>IIRC Samsung is in the enterprise space.
I'd be interested in seeing actual mass-produced consumer 3d printers from a company like Samsung.
Built like inkjet printers with an injection moulded plastic frame and brushed dc motors with encoder wheels.

>>1914887
>I'd be interested in seeing actual mass-produced consumer 3d printers from a company like Samsung.

Fucking this, this would break Průša's neck and with that his fucking chineesium printers.

>>1914866
Pla is definitely stiff but also brittle especially along layer lines. ABS might be good but as you know it's kind of a bitch to print, but hey it's abs we all know about how strong that is. Petg might be a good candidate because it's not as stiff as pla but it has a lot more give so it should be less likely to flat out snap. There's also the million other flavors of pla plus.

>>1914871
That's still 100c hotter than stuff like abs and nylon and pc, it's going to deform for sure if not just melt and coupled with the contraction and deformation of the clay, it ain't going to do what you want it to.

>>1914874
I read >>1914885 but it doesn't really explain how the two are related. Is scamsung looking to steal prusas business class customers or something?

>>1914890
Průša is really afraid of a giant like Samsung (Which is the riffraff around the block) rousing and bending him over the counter.

>>1914733
I want to get a 3D printer to print plastic parts for my car. Stuff like clips, interior light mounts and other such small parts that I can't get anywhere.
Is the Ender 3 a good choice for this? I have zero experience with 3D printing besides a few youtube vids.

>>1914857
Yes but it doesn't matter because by the the clay will have air dried and support itself. You should leave escape routes for the gas so it doesn't explode, or test if this is necessary with non critical pieces. It might make sense to put the piece in an oven at 200C to remove the supports before kiln firing, as then you're dealing with melted plastic not gas.

>>1914866
Petg. At least it won't get fucked being in your car that way.

>>1914890
>ain't going to do what you want it to
What does he want it to do, because I never caught that part.

>>1914896
You need something that supports nylon or petg. Pla and abs get fucked in hot cars and uv rays. There's some new thing out that's supposed to be better and easier than petg but I don't remember much except it was an aussie printing an airbox for his ricer POS.

>>1914893
I see I see. Is there any indication of them thinking about doing this or is it just one of those things in the back of everyone's mind?

>>1914905
I don't know either, but I can be sure whatever it is it's not going to work (unless his goal is to have an amorphous blob of plastic inside of his sculpture lol)

>>1914906
Apollox
"heat resistance of abs but as easy to print as abs"
https://youtu.be/lCqwA1h3JV4

>>1914908
What if you leave a hole in the bottom of the sculpture for the melting plastic to escape and you design/create the sculpture in such a way that there are no negative cavities or areas for pools of plastic to form? For example, slice the bottom off of a hollow sphere.

>>1914906
So can I use nylon or petg with the Ender 3 or do I have to look at something more expensive?
The original plan was to save up for a Prusa 3 but 2 years passed and I'm nowhere near. The Ender 3 might actually be affordable enough to get until the end of the year.

>>1914931
Anon, I'd rather learn to print abs if it does the trick. Sourcing some unheard of filament from god knows where will probably cost me far more than some half decent abs.
I'm not planning to use these parts in the engine bay. I want interior parts.

>>1914939
nylon will require upgrades but the ender 3 can do it. I want to get there but I haven't needed to yet. I have heard it can be a bitch to print.

>>1914936
Look, what exactly are you trying to achieve here that you can't do from literally just making it with your hands

>>1914939
Nylon, no. Needs higher temperatures than your bed and nozzle can support plus a heated enclosure to prevent warping. Petg it's not ideal but yes but I haven't had super duper results trying myself. That's all assuming stock of course with mods you can do basically whatever.
Abs (and technically anything hotter than petg) you need an all metal hot end because the ptfe will start to melt and make death fumes at 250. You can probably use the stock magnetic bed if you do the first layer slow or do a raft but if you exceed 80c you will destroy the magnetism of the mat (not a huge deal, you can easily replace it and they're dirt cheap or just use a glass top or whatever). But you really do need an enclosure to keep in the smell and the heat because abs expands and contracts like a mother fucker so the corners will peel up from the bed and if your print is big enough layers will start to split because it contracts so much. If you have an enclosure the whole thing can cool down at the same rate and stay in one unwarped piece. I would really just go with petg, you're trading off a little lower temperature resistance for being waaaaaay easier to print with less bullshit.

>>1914948
>Look, what exactly are you trying to achieve here that you can't do from literally just making it with your hands
It's way easier to start with a basic skeleton

>using Cura
>Model has a smooth surface
>slicer preview has weird random holes in it where certain layers don't wrap around completely
Should I be concerned?

>>1914956
What kind of grabage modeler/files are you using? Probably the slicer just ignoring broken surfaces. There are some options to attempt to patch poor models in cura but I dont rember what they are :/

>>1914961
I think they were made in Fusion360. Slic3R doesn't have this problem.

>>1914908
The latter. Wouldn't be a first time ever a big company did something like that.

>>1914733
I posted this in the train thread on /toy/ but its dead and probably wont answer for days:

Is using a CNC/3D printer to make my own scale buildings for a railroad town practical instead of buying premade model kits? I have 3D modeling skills I've just never used a 3d printer or cnc before

>>1914989
If you properly set up your prints, you could print, touch up the buildings and then paint them. The problem becomes the time investment compared to just buying them. Although I've not done it myself, I've seen people do the same sort of thing for tabletop miniatures.

>>1914989
If you are willing to do post-processing (sanding, painting, etc). And are a decent modeler, a 3d printer can serve you well. Depending on your level of detail and size will depend on the type of printer. From train stuff I've seen, you'll want an FDM printer (like filament stuff) instead of an SLA printer (resin but great detail).

>>1914995
>>1914998
i realized I said premade kits when i acutally meant generic stock kits. I have no issues paitning sanding, masking etc, as I've made models before.
At most i'd probably model the front facade and maybe the back with some doors/windows and brick relief etc. The only additional time investment here would be the modeling and printing of the printed pieces.

>>1914989
absolutely. it's not the perfect solution it but it's viable and you can do a lot more with the printer (boxes, crates, cans, small pets, shit absolutely unrelated to trains). I doubt you'll regret it as long as you buy a decent printer.

>>1914995
FDM is awesome for environmental minis (barrels, tables, etc) and most monsters but fairly shit for humanoids or anything else smooth.

>>1914822
I like this concept, when op puts things on a show list. Makes me want to make something useful.

>>1914733
I made an thing. Also, so far I've saved close to $250 just printing gun shit myself.

>>1915076
You can buy a GI grip from Cheaper Than Dirt for $3.02

>>1915076
That’s an odd looking dildo

>>1915076
Nice. Pretty soon I'm gonna print a tailhook brace and save $95 doing so.
>>1915090
Or he could print one for $0.50 and not support price gougers like CTD.

>>1915097
>Or he could print one for $0.50 and not support price gougers like CTD.
You dont like the free market? Are you a socialist commie?

>>1915097
>>1915098
>drop $200 on printer and filament
>save $2.50

sounds about right

>>1915099
You forgot the last step
>throw printer away after printing one thing.

Also
>buy car
>drive to the gas station
>throw car away

>>1915098
We're not in a free market when yids create fake shortages

>>1915076
>>1915097
>>1915099
>>1915098
That thing will not last hard use though because of the layer direction.

>>1915104
Good thing grips really aren't typically hard use or impact parts. The grip I printed has held up for a few hundred rounds of LARP and shows no sign of potential failure.

>>1915104
turns out the real victory was the learning all along

>>1915076
Nice. I printed an ak grip the other day. Finished it with some rattlecan bed liner.

>>1915107
Looks good. You could also use Cura's fuzzy settings and get a great stippled grip

>>1915090
I have A2 grips everywhere and they suck and I wanted a grip with a more forward angle and every one I saw was $25 and up.
also >CTD

>>1915097
I've printed a magloader, ar15 jig, numerous prototypes, and now this. It's just a great little investment.

>>1915099
considering I paid $100 after taxes, cashback, and amazon giftcards. The filament was $20 for everything so far. I think I'm up on my printer so far.

>>1915107
I really want to print a wood HG and Stock for my AK, but I'm hesitant because I don't like to open another filament when I have 2 open so far.

I was given this printer for free.
Anything I should know before I attempt to use it?

>>1915133
maybe clean it

>>1915133

Funny, I'm about to give away that printer for free. Used it for like a year before getting an Ender 3. Had a few notable issues:

The bed's power cable broke, because there's a sharp, flexing bend where it's fixed to the bed. Drilled a hole in the back of the printer's base and the bed, made a cable chain, and that solved the problem.

The bed wasn't anywhere near flat enough. Clipped some glass to it, which I preferred to the stock build surface, anyway.

Because it's a shitty, cheap cantilever design, if the Z screw is bent AT ALL, you see a rippling effect along the Z axis on prints. Not terrible close to the mast, but enough to throw your tolerances way off at the far end (like 0.5mm+). I just lived with it, but there are ready-to-print fixes for it if you look.

It started randomly sort of "soft clogging" for reasons that I never figured out. Would work fine until like 2 hours into a print, then I'd hear the motor skipping and lines would start looking like cobwebs. I could push filament through by hand with a normal effort, but it would just start again later. Went as far as completely rebuilding the hotend with a custom water-cooled one and it was still doing it. My solution was to buy the aforementioned Ender 3.

>>1915151
Thx for the info.
It was free so I'm not gonna fret about issues

>>1915076
Which printer bro?

>>1915158
CR-10V2

>>1915107
Creative dildo design

>>1915090
>2008+12
>patronizing ctd
shiggaligiddy

>>1915113
>Cura's fuzzy setting
the what what now?

>>1915115
>considering
it was a joke anon. haha. of course you're not paying yourself for time spent but your time is probably worthless anyway.

>>1915210
It's called Fuzzy Skin or something. It's in the experimental settings. it pretty much stipples it for you. If you do it on a random model, it'll be either every surface or outside surfaces. If you look up the fosscad Bob the Builder Pineapple Glock (see pic) he has instructions on how to get it set up. Something he doesn't explain is that, to get only certain areas of the model to get skin, you have to design little specific parts to either be fuzzy or not fuzzy (like the part that slides on the receiver). When you follow his instructions and get to the "align model steps" where it moves all the little pieces to be fuzzy to the big model, it relies on metadata from the position it was designed in in Fusion or whatever. Sorry I don't understand this well enough to properly explain how to really take advantage of it.

Any tips on getting the post from octoprint? Picked up a raspberry pi 4 and cam so I could check prints without having to go in the printing room. Was piss easy to set up following the chris's basement tutorial. Everything is working nicely so I'm looking for any neat plug ins or extras a noob would miss.

>>1915220
Neat. Wish I didn't need to shell out so much money relative to print cost for stupid slides. It's like less than $5 to print a lower but then you need to pay $25-$80 just for the metal slide pieces.

>>1914819
Anyone making money on selling Halloween themed prints? Worth it? Also, outside US?

>>1914857
Annealed PLA might work: https://youtu.be/bG8dlxTX3AI
I don't remember which materials can resist such temps, but they'll be hard to print on these cheap printers. You might need industrial grade ones. At least one with a heated chamber... PC might work: https://youtu.be/a2E6xTOFVTI

>>1914866
Same answer than above. Annealed PLA or PC, or plastics which are rather used by companies industrial, bc printers are more demanding. Some Nylon filaments can be very stiff and strong, there's a vid from 3d Printing General comparing different ones.

>>1914847
Companies and institutions care more about cost of labour and downtimes, than price, so they're probably worth it in such cases. I highly doubt their image of reliability has been created by "fanboys".
Beeing Apple, also is no insult or accusation. They're making their stuff easier to use, user experience and such, ...
>>1914908
I highly doubt Samsung would be interested in such a small market and not sure if they could compete. Chinese cheap stuff on one side, Prusa with some more reliable stuff but still based on open designs. Samsungs printers would be to expensive or not profitable.

>>1914956
Change the config to a smaller nozzle, like 0.2 or so and try again (Prusa/Slic3r). Just don't forget to turn it back, or don't save without actually changing the nozzle. Don't know what happens if you just ignore the errors in your file, though.

>>1914989
I assume you would even find a ton of models of buildings for free or cheap: https://youtu.be/cw2PUYNOUbs

What CPU is everyone using? I am considering I7-4790k or i5-9600k. How likely am I to be limited by the first?

>>1915220
fucking hell that's cool. wouldn't it be nice if the POS cura could allow you to set where this happened instead of relying on a kludge that's probably a bug to get fuzzy and non-fuzzy. probably my second biggest wish for cura, right after make the "drop model to build plate" a fucking UI button instead of having it buried in the settings menu.

nobody ever recommended an alt to CURA, is there another slicer people actually use?

>>1915243
>drop model to build plate
Please tell me this fixes custom supports from raising the entire model off the bed.

>>1915243
slic3r and simplify3d

>>1915243
>set where this happens
in cura you could set this with custom blocks
it wouldn't be as pretty as >>1915220 tho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su_m5zV9rvA

>>1915220
Damn. Any way to do something similar in PrusaSlicer?

>>1915255
And Prusa Slicer, which is Slic3er plus some upgrades.

what heating element thing do I need for a CR10 V1? as a stopgap until I get a Chinese copy of a better hotend. not the thermistor, I need the heating cartridge.

where would I get the wires for a pi to connect to my board so I can flash a bootloader and marlin? what hotend should i get? as cheap as possible pls

how hard is Solidworks when you know the basics of CATIA ?

>>1915346
From the one guy I know who moved from Inventor to CATIA, who previously used Solidworks, CATIA is immensely more of a pain in the ass - take that as you will

>>1915349
shouldn't be too much of an issue for the crap i design i guess.

Why does my nozzle crash into the print at some point, when everything went fine at first? Also, brown spots on a failed print, are burning marks when something sticks to the nozzle, right? Or is it also from the nozzle crashing into the print?

>>1914821
>printing a firearm made for killing with the intention to kill
>printing it discretely because you know it's wrong
>reeee when this is all pointed out
Gunnuts are no better than niggers lol

>>1915357
retarded logic

Reminder to buy genuine E3D hotends and not knockoffs.

>>1915360
>has no logic
>probably no brain
red states in a nutshell

I'm reporting every post related to 3d printing firearms. Can't have weapons in the hands of neonazi terrorists, after all

>>1914740
I have an Ender 3 Pro, and I got this not long after I upgraded it to the 1.1.5 silent board.
My 'solution' was to send the 1.1.5 board back and took a chance on the SKR E3 Mini V2. That was a couple of months ago and it has been absolutely flawless in operation. I didn't think it'd be as stable as the original board, which was amazing (but loud), but it's been perfect.

>>1915241
no, not even remotely, it'll be fine.

>>1915346
not hard, coming from catia i had no real problems using SW for small projects
same with F360 which feels like a toy
>>1915362
>tfw knockoff volcano and nozzles in the mail
i'm sure it'll just fine printing denim

@1915357
>Nothing to do with the original claim and response
>Projecting harder than imax
Ahoy b80

>>1915374
Red States are retarded. They're also full and no fun. I recommend you and your friends stay far away.

>>1914829
>>1914831
I'm not american. The point I was trying to make was that anon should consider any local legislation on printing firearms because hindsight in such matters is always 20/20. However, Evidently there's no restrictions in America so my point is moot.

I need to eventually install an exhaust fan near my printers. They make the room really stuffy.
Also waiting to find out when and at what price the Creality belt printer will be available at.

coming over from the tg general since they don't really do FDM

Is this underextrusion or something else like backlash? Accidentally deleted my current profile updating to new version and had to mostly redo settings. Flat wall was parallel to Y axis and the Y belt feels a little loose. Wondering if I'm gonna have to get used to the Mega X being a slow printer.

>print temp towers
>190C looks same as 205C
>215C looks like 235C
>get warping at 60C bed temp
I swear this PLA is scuffed or its a slicer problem, even tho the temps on the screen show up right. the bottom left is 185C
>>1915596
could be underextrusion and/ or temps being a bit low from the looks of the hole in the middle

>>1915479
>However, Evidently there's no restrictions in America so my point is moot.
Not quite but it's highly permissive. Generally the laws to look out for concern:
1. Silencers/suppressors
2. Pistols with stocks AKA short barreled rifles
3. Fully automatics
Printing any of those without authorization is strictly verboten

>>1915615
Weird about the temp since its regular pla at 195 and my previous spool started to overextrude above 190. Temp tower was definitely showing 195 as best. I'll kick it up to 200 for the next slice and see what happens.

>>1914857
The entire thing would probably explode. The exterior of the clay will harden before the insides, the plastic will expand while the outside shell is hard, exploding ensues. Also, you'll have a kiln filled with melted plastic.

I have a problem with my Prusa where it doesn't want to feed during a print. Manuel extruding feeds just fine but once I try to print it decides to stop feeding

>>1915655
Should've bought a creality.
Have you checked the filament by the feed gear to see if it's just rubbing? Have you observed the feed gear while printing to ensure it's turning? The when you manually feed filament does it come out and mostly straight down or is it all curly (indicative of a clogged nozzle).

>>1915655
Check the tension on the idler gear and try a lower speed. Are you using tpu?

If I was to get a printer with the z axis on the bed rather than the gantry, what would people recommend?

>>1915675
Probably an ender 5 or whatever new flavor might be in the works

>>1915596
If the issue is only on the first layer it's probably that you need to re-calibrate z-axis

Used a shitload of support and the sword handle broke (reattached it by heating one end with a lighter). But I'm really happy with the result. Especially since I didn't care much at all about making it easy to print while modeling it.

finally ordered my first 3d printer
any tips for a future chiron owner?

>>1915700
I have no experience with that printer. But you should watch a shitload of youtube videos to familiarize with the technology and terminology. It will make it so much easier to fix it after it breaks during your second print because you fucked something up.

>>1915702
is it really that easy to fuck up a printer? I always thought that after leveling the bed it needed no more user intervention, besides cleaning the bed every now and then

>>1915709
not really, no, i have my e3p for 3 weeks now and did all kinds of stupid stuff, still works

>>1915220
What print settings did you use, besides the fuzzy?

>>1915232
If only some chinese guy could shit them out for $5 apiece

>>1915709
Printing is not difficult. But there are a shitload of smaller things you have to learn about and experience before it's a cakewalk to print something.
You have to learn about the specific properties of your brand of plastic together with your printer, how much support you need, when you need a brim or not, etc, etc. Remember that the technology is that you squeeze out melted plastic from a hole. It's actually very primitive in that sense. And shit like having too little support on a small part of a large print that is running overnight is something that even pros ruin their hotends with.

So do your research. Start with smaller prints and wait for some time until you feel confident enough to print without supervision.

And it needs user intervention fairly regularly. Re-leveling beds, cleaning clogged nozzles, removing dust. There is a reason why everyone doesn't own a printer.

But again. It's not difficult. Do your research (watch a shitload of youtube) and you'll figure it out.

>>1915722
can you recommend me some good all around videos or articles for 3d printing?

>>1915719
Been a while since I printed that, so I don't remember exactly. Probably .24mm layer height, tree supports, bridge settings enabled (experimental in cura), printed grip down slide up, big brim and taped down because ABS doesn't like to stick and wanted to warp off. Temperature, speed, jerk, etc are all going to be dependent on your printer.

>>1915691
It's on all layers. Basically the outermost layers adhered to each other but not the inner layers of the shell so its like the print has a band of paper taped to it. Same thing happened on a smaller scale to the peg holes in the bottom.

>>1915596
Check if it is the material by trying another one. If so, think about if it's even worth your time. You could dry it, if you have some dehydrator.
Otherwise, check esteps, print first layer test and flow cubes from teaching tech. Then maybe if it's the hardware. Also consider r/FixMyPrint/ if no one can help you here. Though, the will recommend looking into the troubleshooting tutorial from Simplify3D page, to help yourself.

She's all lubed up and ready for our big day. This is the first time for both of us.

Here she is all filled up with my special goo, you can see some dripping out. I hope I put enough inside her.

>>1915857
l-lewd

>>1915857
good luck on your diy orthopedics

>>1915857
good use for that crappy tire flyer ;)

>>1915360
>commie logic

>>1915857
You shot into her with four nozzles!?

>>1915904
>clamps
But, could we do it with four?

>>1915382
I have been too limited with the 6th gen I5 processors.

>>1915967
what are you doing/ working with if your cpu bottlenecks?
i'm using a 4690k and dont see any issues with it

>>1915700
Remove the auto bed leveling, level manually. If that doesn't work your bed is curved and you should order a new glass plate instead.
Good printer otherwise, I just get the feeling they threw the ABL on there as an afterthought and it sucks.

>>1915980
I feel confident I will occasionally overload it with any CAD program.
Meshroom could work better.
I am hitting a bottleneck with several other programs too.

>>1915980
If you've got proper assemblies or doing any sorts of simulations then you're gonna need a good CPU

>>1916034
f360 and meshmixer sometimes run slow for me too, weirdly enough they arent maxing out the cpu, it sits around 50%. cpu is OCd to 4.5ghz. maybe its not well optimized?
>>1916038
>proper assemblies
thats why i asked what he is doing, i know that loading in entire dashboards with hundreds of parts needs some power, i cant think of a 3d-printable project that is this massive tho.
>simulations
they usually single-core processes afaik

>>1916046
You can have a situation where 3D printed parts are used as parts of a proper assembly due to budgetary or time constraints.
>they usually single-core processes afaik
Simulations most certainly are not single core, they are multi core, running CAD in general is single core though.

>>1916058
>Simulations most certainly are not single core, they are multi core
Simulations are among the hardest things to optimize for multiple cores because you have a lot of interdependent global state.

>>1915497
Maaaaaan, so jelly of your side hustle

Has it managed to replace your day job yet?

>>1915738
I like Thomas Sanladerer, RClifeon, Maker's Muse on YouTube. But there are a shitload of them on there. So look around yourself.

>>1915497
what is this shooting?

>finish 18 hour print
>Part is ever so slightly too small
>Facepalm
Why is it so difficult for cura to implement a basic measuring tool so you can verify the sizes of features when overall dimensions isn't helpful

>>1916121
>he thinks what he prints comes out the same size as what the model is

I got some news for you bucko.

>>1916097
>Has it managed to replace your day job yet?
It does bring in more income. I don't really have any good reasons to quit my dayjob yet though.
>>1916102
It shoots Rival HIRs (the little yellow foam balls). It can feed them from the 7, 12, or 15 round mags that are available.
>>1916121
You need to print a test cube and will have to calibrate each axis in sequence for correct estep settings.

>>1916046
>i cant think of a 3d-printable project that is this massive tho
Give it time. You will start finding these eventually.

>>1916220
It is when your printer is calibrated buddy boy

>>1916332
It's all 100% calibrated and dialed in, model needed to be scaled which I would have known if there was a measuring tool

>>1916349
>It is when your printer is calibrated buddy boy

What is shrinkage and warping.

>>1916354
shrinkage and warping are mitigated by your calibration you twit

>gonna start printing PETG
how many layers of painters tape should be appropriate so it doesn't fuse to the bed?

>>1916373
None, use a layer of hairspray instead.

>Printing out a custom tool organizer
>3 days
>Trying not to think of a failed print 60 hours in
HERE WE FUCKING GO

>>1916403
This is what stops me from doing like 19hour single prints.. I had a filament snag on a 24hr print at somewhere around 19hours while I was sleeping

>>1916407
I usually pause the print if I'm out for long or going to sleep. It takes a lot longer, but at least I can keep an eye on it.

>>1916411
>>1916407
I usually print things like 3-5 days without hassle. I just put the printer in a room with a smoke detector and have a fire extinguisher close by so it can explode and put out the fire.

https://youtu.be/wnbtkWQBMDo

Can learn from this

>>1916367
>shrinkage and warping are mitigated by your calibration you twit

You have a fundamental misunderstanding of physics. Effects like shrinkage, warping and thermal expansion are dimensionally dependent; the longer a line of filament is in any given direction the more it will experience these effects. You can't just 'calibrate' out something that is a dynamic effect that changes with any new shape unless your slicer itself is able to compensate by printing altered topology that will take the form of the net shape upon cooling.

>>1916426
huh? why if else?

>>1916349
>It is when your printer is calibrated buddy boy
>>1916462
>Intelligent response
Have any theromdynic anons found a good way of calculating? Or automating the calculation into a software package?
It also should depend on the number of perimeter shells and extrusion width.
What have other anons been doing to compensate? There has to be a universal, systematic way to do it.

>>1916367
>shrinkage and warping are mitigated by your calibration you twit
What, so you recalibrate every damn time you switch filaments to account for shrinkage? No, you build that shit into your designs.

also good fucking luck trying to out-calibrate warping and thermodynamics

>>1916407
this guy sleeps....

Has anyone ever had issues with prsuaslicer and massive stringing? Running a cr10 v2 with e3d nozzle X and DD titan, and the stringing is by far the worst I've ever seen, and no matter what I do it doesn't seem to change anything, never had this level of issues in S3D or Cura.
Current settings are 1mm @ 40mm/s, retract on layer change and wipe are both enabled. Retract amount b4 wipe didn't change anything, and lift z didn't change anything either. I'll post pictures when the current print finshes, can't find the older tests I did.

What can I do to improve the durability of these cylinders sticking out of the top of my print sop they don't sheer off? They are ~3mm x 3mm. Would I be better off trying to source some 3mm wire, cutting it to length, and they heating it, and pressing it in? The object on top sits flush, so they have a 1x layer height recess.

>>1916614

>>1916629
If all you want is shear strength then add a pilot hole in the center of the posts. Touch the hole up with a drill bit after printing, then drive a spring/roll pin into the drilled hole or something similar like a finishing nail or some weld rod.

>>1915822
So apparently people have been having a lot of problems using Cura 4.7 on Mega X that go away as soon as they switch back to 4.6.

I think I'll switch back over the weekend and see what happens. Or at the very least print an older gcode and see if it's fine or not.

>>1916632
retract rate and speed

OK I got a base CR10. I think its a 8bit. I want to update to everything newer and replace the heater cartridge my well meaning asshole friend ripped the end off of when he was "helping" today.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000994384623.html
for the board. I'm not in a rush to fix it all. I need the hotend working and then ill upgrade the board.
is this a good upgrade for the hotend?
https://smile.amazon.com/Wangdd22-1-75mm-Printer-Extruder-Accessories/dp/B06XBXDJY3

>>1916407
>not keepin dem REAL NIGGA HOURS
MOTHERFUCKER, IT SICKENS ME TO SEE HOW FAR WE DONE FELL.

>>1916629
Depends what you have built and what material it is and what you need it to do.
I am going to recommend a layer of amalgamated denim binding material.

>>1916668
>I am going to recommend a layer of amalgamated denim binding material for the dildo you have printed.

My printer is louder when it moves fast on Z, than any other move. Sometimes it sounds like the stepper looses steps, or it knocks a little, also makes a high sound when going fast. Any suggestions? I don't want to loosen the screws to make my bed wobbling, though.

What wood stains are good for wood filament prints?

>with one errant comment a few threads ago printing denim has become meta
It's the little things

I'm runnning the latest version of Cura and it keeps freezing all the time. For example each time I change a slicing parameter it freeze for like ten second. Slicing, panning and about everything is impacted but it never crash. I just have to wait.
Task manager is not showing a bottleneck, plenty of recoussrce available.

Any of you experiencing this?

>>1916710
never understood the printing denim thing

I've been trying to figure out an oozing problem I've been having and I've discovered something odd. When I print the gcode generated by https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction It prints perfectly at 4mm 25mm/s retract, but when I slice the same file with cura with the same settings I get massive oozing. Any idea what setting in cura could be messing this up?

I'm modeling some threads for print-to-print screwing action in Fusion 360 and they just don't seem to quite have the clearance to come together nicely. Is there an easy way to kind of adjust them a bit so they aren't modeled to be perfectly machined or is this only really an issue at lower scales as I'm printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and have tested a 5mm and 10mm thread/bolt combo, effectively M5x1.5 and M10x1.5 and probably wouldn't have a problem doing something like M20 threads since I'm not trying to play Operation with a Forklift?

>>1916734
>never understood the printing denim thing
OK boomer

>>1916734
Imagine being able to wear the skinniest jeans known to man.

>>1916764
Inspect the two gcodes manually and observe what the differences are.

>>1916764
Those tests are useless. Print the one from http://retractioncalibration.com/ and get way more information. I had trouble getting mine to print the first layer but once it managed that it gave me a wealth of information TT's shit won't. From what I've heard he's just a guy who rips off other people's videos and builds a fanbase off of repeating what was said last week.

>Coolest thing you ever printed /3dpg/?

>>1916828
Not him, is the custom gcode on that site the start gcode?

>>1916828

Those tests have never worked for me. I've gone up to 16mm at 10mm/s and still had oozing and stringing.

Anyone have any idea of what makes those lines on the side of my part? It looks like the layer separated but not like traditional layer separation, and I don't believe it's some effect of underextrusion (see pic 2). PLA printed at 195c, 60c bed, 40mm/s, 0.3mm layer height, 0.4 nozzle, Prusa slicer.

>>1916856
pic 2

>>1916829
You put in your config and test parameters and then it gives you the g code. Takes a couple of hours to print because it tests everything all at once. From nothing to full retraction at each speed level.


>>1916855
At that point you're pulling the filament completely out of the hot end. But those tests are poorly designed going round two circles and then across isn't going to test stringing well. It's a constant and v ry shallow test. The one linked above is much more brutal and intentionally tried to cause stringing.

>>1916856
Do you have a fan cooling the plastic after it comes out? I usually set mine on the cr10 to at most 50% to allow better layer adhesion, if its at 100 I find it solidifies fully too fast, but i agree it is a little odd.

Thoughts on setting a print going for 3+ days on a CR-10? Anything to consider gcode wise? Apart from obviously not have the heated bed on after good bed adhesion.

>>1916868
I think what's important is being comfortable with that exact type of filament and make sure you've got enough supports/infill/parameters. And of course keep a regular eye on it.

And why would you want to turn the heat bed off?

>>1916868
Use a raft. Unless you need the smooth bottom the raft will make sure it doesn't detach which longer prints risk even with good adhesion. There's always going to be some minor shrinkage which becomes a bigger issue when it's rippling upwards from the base layer.

>even superslicer gives me stringing out the asshole
Literally the only thing that seems wrong with it, slic3r and its forks just seems cursed on my machine.

>>1916865
I have two 40mm fans blowing from two directions. Both runs at 100% directly from the 12volt rail. Something happens when I changed to Prusa slicer. Worked good before when I used Ideamaker. But I lost all my settings when my SSD broke so I decided to change to something more widespread in the community

>>1916879
>He doesn't have a storage locker at the subway with a USB stick holding just his printer settings on it in case his printer burns his home down.
Filthy casual.

>>1916635
Thats a good idea w/ roll pins. Thank you.

>>1916769
Have you tried scaling the nut bigger and the bolt smaller by like .05 or .1mm or something in the x and y only

>>1916880
>He wants to use years old print settings when his drive craps out
>He doesn't have a cabin in the woods surrounded by razor wire and mines and other booby traps with solar, hydroelectric and geothermal power with an automatic backup diesel generator hooked to 2000lbs of deep cycle marine batteries and pure sine inverters powering 4g hotspots from all of the major carriers as well as a satellite internet link hooked via ethernet to a small server that uses each one as a failover and is connected to 5 raid controllers with 20 helium drives each all in raid1 with zfs filesystem whose only purpose is to do a daily sync of your print settings
Un fucking believable, the lot of you

>>1916374
>>1916373
nothing, just remove it when the bed is still hot

>>1916926
>not just using the standard settings provided by the manufacturer that are perfectly tuned for just your printer
sm h

>>1916929
>He thinks every printer from the same company is 100% exactly the same and each will perform 100% exactly the same and there's no such thing as manufacturing tolerances and variations plus everyone will use the same exact type and brand of filament not to mention they build their profiles conservative as to reduce printer wear and for normies that don't want to fuck around with tuning
Ngmi

>>1916958
So many retards "upgrade" their shit with no fucking idea what they are doing.
Just about every machine I've "fixed" was done by listening to what the owner did, then reinstalling the stock firmware and doing a really basic calibration.
People fuck up their calibration then try to "fix" it in settings. mind boggling.

>>1916577
Only because of sleeping medication and work
If I didn’t work I’d not be taking sleep meds
Without them I sleep about 2hrs a night

>>1914868
Latest pi just for octoprint? Lol, I've been running mine on pi3b with no downside at all. In fact most people on yt or whatever use nanos

So I just bought an elegoo mars to supplement my fdm printer for when I need more detailed parts.

What am I in for?

>>1916988
And that's in any way relevant to what I said... How?

>>1914733
How do I print a large dildo?

>>1917048
Print a mold, sand properly, fill with silicone, use the silicone.

Do not use 3D-printing for printing dildos directly. Not only are human muscles relatively strong, meaning you might get stuck with a printed piece of plastic up your ass if you design/slice it improperly, 3D-prints are heaven for germs and bacteria to grow into. Don't stuff them up your ass/coochie unless you like nasty infections and the like.

...so after .step export support ends in 5 days.
Is there any tool or plugin that allows me to automatically export my Fusion360 library? Best in .f3d and .step format.
I have 60 projects or so containing hundreds of models. Going through all of them by hand would be quite a pain in the ass.

>>1915850
>>1915857
So, what is it? The suspense is killing me.

>>1917060
same
looks like the head of an ancient axe to me

>>1917051
Hmm so I need to make a silicone donger...

>>1916629
>>1916635
I've done this with a modeled in counter-bored hole and an M3 screw. I used screws just because I have them on hand.

>>1916828
there's just one salty dude saying that. in reality everyone learns from everyone else, of course TT's stuff isn't 100% whole cloth de novo creation. t. notTT

>>1916886
>Thats a good idea... Thank you.
Denim was a good idea too

>>1917077
But, what is the best type of silicone to use?
And is it possible to use a polyurethane sealant directly on the printed part instead?

>>1917053
some people mentioned this: https://github.com/Jnesselr/fusion-360-total-exporter

But they are supposed to bring back step export. I haven't had time to research it, just to let you know.

>>1917051
>sand properly
Is there a reason you couldn't leave the layer lines behind for texture?

My printer was being a big pain in the ass... it was jerking a lot and making some awful sounds... tightened one bolt that was semi loose... releveled the bed (again) and now it’s printing like new
It actually shook the table it’s on and it’s not a light table

</ventandblog>

>>1917146
Layers are perfect nesting ground for germs.

Can I be on a list now?

So I'm fairly new to printing and with the weather getting colder it got me thinking. Any tips for winter printing out in my garage? Lower fan cooling? Raise bed/hotend temps?

>>1917183
Do what you can to keep drafts to a minimum.

>>1917183
Build/buy an enclosure and move the board and power supply out of it

>>1915857
you know you're just going to walk all over her when you're done.

>>1916958
My printers come from a company with good enough manufacturing standards so that performance will not vary from printer to printer.

What is the opinion of FlashForge here?
I know it is chink shit, but isn't it relatively high quality chink shit?

>>1917180
not until you make a gun, make a suppressor, or a DIAS

>>1917131
exactly what I was looking for, thanks

>>1917180
>google lavon affair
google operation gladio

>>1915237
>>1914961
For some reason, the problem fixes itself when I change to a bigger layer height. Weird.

>fingerfuck a G26 and a G19
>G26 feels kind of uncomfortable but I would rather carry something small
>want to try a p80-style grip to see if it would be more comfortable
>all of defcad's files are now paywalled behind a $50 monthly fee and I can't find them on Github
Can any paypigs help a nigga out?

>>1917314
Is the ivanthetroll lbry still open? Are we allowed to link this stuff here? If not, I hope you get the link before j*nnies get to it.https://lbry.tv/@Deterrence-Dispensed:2/G26P80:f

>>1916926
>all in raid1
raid is not a backup

>>1917325
Thanks, homie. Your link also showed me the G19 version with the DIY rails, so I could ghetto-model a G26 by chopping the grip of the G19

>>1916734
Someone used a moist filament, and then his heatsock looked like it was made out of denim.
>>1916764
Had similar problems (Volcano hotend), and not Cura. Simply gave up and now print normal stuff. It could be all kinds of settings... Heat, speed, retractions, ...
>>1917053
.steps seems to be not a very good format, consider dxf and dxw.

>>1914906
>Pla and abs get fucked in hot cars and uv rays.
This is a meme. I live in the desert. It's gets to be 120F here in the summer. I have left PLA prints in my car, in the summer with the windows rolled up for weeks on end. Nothing happens.

>>1917463
>Nothing happens.
You are doing it wrong.

what software should I use for 3d modelling on Linux if I have no prior experience, but know programming?

>>1917514
openscad

The anon who keeps posting musical instrument, here. I made a clarinet/sax style instrument that uses a Bb clarinet embouchure. I call it a pitch fork clarinet or the devils clarinet, but it doesn't quite look like a pitch fork. It looks phallic, so I might make the ends larger.

I'm going to have a fucking stroke. My Chiron, doesn't level the bed proper. So I opened the hotend up, checked the connections, looked at the pins, reassembled the thing, and now it ignores the Z stops and doesn't save the fucking leveling data, doesn't notice the leveling probe connected and I'm absolutely fucking clueless and furious. I think the board might be fucked, but I'd rather not open the thing up as it's so fucking heavy.

Suggestions?

>>1917623
See: >>1915995. Get rid of ABL, get it leveled manually. If it's ignoring the Z-stops you dun fucked something up with the ABL GCode.

>>1916873
Yeah I'll be able to check on it everyday, more worried about leaving it over night, Turning the heated bed off with the idea having less heated elements on when unattended will decrease the chance of electronics failing.
>>1916873
Thanks, that's a good call on the raft, pretty handy that the bottom of the models wont be seen at all.

>>1917624
Which should a reset and reflash of firmware be able to fix, no?

>>1917627
Affirmative.

>>1917631
Which is super weird, because between flashes I couldn't get the bed level probe issue to begone. Hope the reset fixes otherwise I am biting the fucking bullet and getting a CR10

>>1917656
Nah, it's just that the probe itself is garbage with way too much hysteresis. Might be the magnetic mounting, but I ditched it on mine, leveled manually and she's been printing like a breeze ever since, even the guy I sold it to has no problems. Other than what looks like this annoying software problem you've got I see no reason to downgrade to a CR-10.

>>1917659
I'm really hoping it's a software problem especially since I'm hardware incompetent and don't even own a soldering iron.

What are these weird christmas-tree looking artifacts?

>>1917668
Probably just some overextrusion.
>>1917659
Also, thanks, can I go just for a corner callib or do I have to go through all the points, and would a Bltouch be a better idea?

>>1917668
what's left of real christmas spirit manifesting

Mandatory how do you print a sex toy question.
Mandatory print a mold and fill it with silicone answer.

Assembling an Ender 3 right now. I'll keep you posted if I bump into anything.

Question. I may be moving in a couple of months. Should I package it assembled in a bigger box or is there any risk when disassembling it again?

>>1917623
Just got home and I hooked it up to printrun. Tried flashing a default firmware from Anycubic but no avail. I can't change level settings in the printer, and it doesn't save them either.

What's with the silicone cover that goes on the hotend of the ender 3? Am I supposed to leave that on?

>>1917773
It provides thermal insulation.
It keeps your part cooling fan from cooling down your heater, and the heater block from heating up your print.

>>1917775
also makes plastic not stick to the block if it comes in contact for whatever reason

>>1917668
I dont even know what im looking at.
Stuff oozing out during travels?

>>1917622
Just make the top of it slightly larger and more rounded than the shaft. That'll get you the right shape.

>>1917668
Fungus

>>1917715
Fucking chink instructions and unlabaled parts. ended up mounting the extruder upside down twice, and the T-nuts kept twisting out. Maybe I'll print some spacers and label it with coloured sharpies when moving. Still fun.

Gotta go for today, maybe tomorrow afternoon I'll calibrate it and print the mandatory 3DBenchy and a couple upgrades like a z-axis knob or something.

>>1914733
Eternal question. Which CAD to use?!

I'm using SketchUp for simple stuff. At work I have to use SolidWorks. But it gives me headache.

Is there even any open source CAD which is usable? FreeCAD is pure hell to use.

>>1917514
There isn't just 3d modeling. There is parametric design (CAD) and there is mesh modelling. Also specialized mesh modeling programs like Make Humans. OpenSCAD, Solvespace, Blender, Solid Works (Warez on some separate PC), ... Your choice...

>>1917820
I literally assembled one a couple weeks ago. it's legos/ikea tier. ID-10-T error.

Well this didn't turn out like I'd hoped. If the leftover goo is any indication then it isn't even close to being cured and will disintegrate if I try to take it out. I tried silicone and glycerin because that's what people said to do on youtube and it isn't working. I'm going to soak it in some water and see if that helps it cure.

Next is silicone and cornstarch.

>>1917997
>Next is silicone and cornstarch
On second thought that would probably give me a fungus infection.

>>1917997
have you read about some mold plastics that prevent silicone from curing? I don't remember which ones were good/bad, but it's a thing

Anyone try to use a drag knife on your 3D printers? I printed one of these little diddly dues.

>>1918014
Might work if you keep the cutting forces at a minimum.

Any tips for a /diy/ printer enclosure?

>>1918041
Get some dowels and brackets from the hardware store, order some cold stuff from Whole Foods through Amazon and cut up their insulated bags. Assemble a box and hot glue the insulated sheets to it.

I tried switching filaments using the push and pull technique while the extruder was hot. Did I just pull out the ptfe layer from my ender 3 hot end?
Is this bad?

>>1918060
Nope, it just looks like that as air gets sucked back through the nozzle when you yank the filament out. Make sure you cut that goobery end off before putting that filament back down the tube.

>>1917861
Problem was between the seat and the steering wheel

>>1917821
Fusion 360 is the right choice.

>>1917861
>>1918070
Yeah, a keyboard-chair interface defect. My bad. But the flyer was terribly labeled.

What’s a good sanding tool to get started before hand sanding for something like PLA?

>>1917997
What videos? I am interested in making a similar dildo, but haven't come to a decision on materials and curing.

>>1915615
they have a cool aesthetic even melted

Copymaster 400 for 290$ refurbished
y/n?

>>1918092
Use a large grinding stone that turns by foot pedal like they used in days of yore to sharpen blades

>print petg with 0.2mm nozzle, 0,08mm layer height
>clogs up an hour in for the third time now
maybe I should try pla next
>>1917820
i think the instructions are really good for a chinese product. make sure the bed gantry is tight and not wobbling around like mine did. for moving I'd just unbolt the upper frame and lay it flat.
>>1918041
there is an ikea-based enclosure on thingiverse, might fit your usecase

>>1917997
What type of silicone did you use? Silicone caulk needs humidity to cure but if you mix it with the water prior to moulding it's gonna have a more squishy and less resistant consistency
Caulk guns can become completely solid through so if nothing works i'd just put it in a damp place and forget about it until it's solid

>>1918099
I tried that with silicone caulk, trust me you want the real stuff that shit will peel your dick off and it's super tough when it's cured (ie. not squishy so it won't stretch to accept your dick so you'd need to size it out and then it's no better than using your hand)

>>1917694
If you're doing complete manual calibration I'd do one round of the corners with a 1mm feeler gauge, then repeat with a 0.1mm feeler gauge. Going through all the points is too much, actually going through the four corners is too much since a proper plane is a defined by three points are you're overdefining (overadjusting) if you do more than that. But four is fine in most cases.
If you want to return to ABL a BLTouch is a much better sensor, but may require some work to hook it up. I don't like ABL since it means your Z-steppers are continuously moving, and therefore may be microstepping in between the golden numer for layer heights multiples (0.04mm on a Chiron) which may cause artifacting, or just plain worse print quality.

>>1917821
>At work I have to use SolidWorks. But it gives me headache.
How do you get a headache when you don't even have a brain? SW is easy enough.

>>1918195
>>print petg with 0.2mm nozzle, 0,08mm layer height
>>clogs up an hour in for the third time now
>maybe I should try pla next
Have you tried not going with a tiny nozzle and even smaller layer height? The flowrate is way too low, you really should have been expecting clogs. You might be able to pull it off if you disable cooling entirely.
What in the hell are you even printing that requires such a low resolution?

>>1918222
i just want to try it out before i get my volcano hotend, pla somewhat worked except the top layers since cooling as off, should've increased minimum layer time
I should call this filament color "my average print quality"

I'm considering making some replacement shower curtain hooks out of PLA. Considering the warmth and moisture, what should I take into consideration regard germs and mold and the such?

>>1918195
>i think the instructions are really good for a chinese product.
Maybe you got a better instructions sheet than mine. Also I was in a hurry and could have had more attention.
>make sure the bed gantry is tight and not wobbling around like mine did.
Noted. Will check in a few hours when I get to it again. Thanks for the heads-up.
>for moving I'd just unbolt the upper frame and lay it flat.
Noted, thanks. Unscrewing it whole from the bottom ends of profiles 16 and 15 I guess?

>>1918425
Warmth shouldn't be an issue unless your shower is hot as hell and constantly soaking the hooks. Mold and whatnot is a r*ddit meme. Just don't suck on them and you'll be okay. You'd probably be okay if you did suck on them too, but that's gross. Your loofa or whatever those scrubby things are called are gonna be grosser than a hook.

>>1918425
why PLA over petg?
petg is a bit more flexible in case you accidentally jank it. and I think pla suffers from creeping elongation or what its called, slow deformation under low but constant stress
>gems and mold
just spray them with some cleaners every now and then or replace them every few months altogether

>>1917623
Fixed it, contacted anycubic, the probe doesn't work. So I went through all of the 25 points on the bed and leveled them manually to reddit tier precision. Sure fucking hope the parts for my AK model don't fail fucking now.


Anyone got a PDF of Chiron upgrades I keep hearing about? Anyone got a suggestion to upgrade the hotend? Or anything else about the Chiron in general where I don't have to also procure a soldering iron and get soldering skills?

>>1918458
Okay, I'll suck on the shower hooks for science and report the results
>>1918512
>why PLA
it's what I have at hand
>deformation
I'll redo them in PETG if I get my hands on some, thanks for the tip

>>1918436
>>1918195
>>make sure the bed gantry is tight and not wobbling around like mine did.
Whodathunked, it actually did! Tightening up the standoffs helped. Thanks! Now printing one of the dog test files. Dunno if the supplied filament will be enough. I do have a 1kg PLA roll but it's sealed up right now.

>>1918627
Update: stringing. Not terrible, but not good.

>>1918660
Update: I think I may run out of filament. I'm biting my chair cushion.

>>1918714
Did run out of filament in the last few layers. The Chinesians truly are turbojews. Also, had some stringing at the default 200ºC, I'll tune it down next time. Any tips for Ender 3 parameters?

>>1918041
We had this topic in the last thread. It depends what you want it for.

>>1918749
there are tons of cura-profiles for the ender3 floating around, e.g. by chep on youtube or
tomb of 3d printed horrors for miniatures. or go by trail and error
>some stringing
could be the open-box filament sample that soaked moisture, if not reduce retraction speed to 25mm/s or so.
also look into upgrading the firmware to marlin2.0 when you're more comfortable with printing, it has some quality of life features and runs faster compared to stock

>>1918926
>cura-profiles
Noted, I just used the file as-is out of the card. I have installed Cura, but I think the Debian repos have an old version without the Ender 3 profile. Will look around for profiles, thanks.
>open-box filament sample
Actually came in a little sealed baggy, but I wouldn't be surprised if the Yellow Turbojew packed some moisture in for good measure. Will take note of the retraction speed, thanks.
>firmware
Desu, have considered it. Nice to have confirmation.

i want to print some TPU for rc-tires and maybe cat toys.
can anyone recommend a good 1.75mm filament? which shore-hardness should i go for?
there is some sunlu tpu on sale on amazon atm, is that any good?

>>1918996
Fiberlogy 40d is pretty good.
No idea about sunlu.

Ok would cooking filament in an oven solve the warping issue or I need to make a cover?

>>1918996
Can't speak of their other plastics but never had any problems with their pla, Id use it.

Why the fuck does my .6 nozzle clog mid print after a few hours of printing? I've got it leveled, purged and I even print at a slightly higher temperature than the woodfill PLA recommends. . I print only PLA too. Pay no mind to the failed tree, I guess extrusion fucked me here. Running on the Chiron, printing slow-ish, and with slightly higher flow. Only happens after 4-6 hours in on a print.

>>1919039
>woodfill
There's your problem.

>>1919039
If it's a bowden with stock extruder assembly that's your issue. Not enough torque on the part.

>>1918996
I just had a look at it, it's a half kilo spool if you weren't aware. For the same price or a couple bucks more id just get a full kilo spool from someone else with high reviews

>>1919041
That's why I mounted a .6mm nozzle. Still too narrow?
>>1919042
Then do I tighten down the assembly? What the fuck do I do to fix it?

>>1919047
Just a bowden issue, besides making sure your ptfe is fully flush I don't there there is anything you can do (outside of install a direct drive). Perhaps get some capricorn tubing since the diameter is smaller, may help.

>>1919047
If anything I'd go back to a smaller nozzle, since the thing that kills (solidifies) woodfill is time spent in the hotend.

>>1919048
It's super weird since it lays everything down proper and then when the print goes into the 4-8 hour marks it fucking fails and clogs.

>>1919049
Then wouldn't a bigger nozzle push the material out with low pressure high flow versus high pressure low flow of a small nozzle not to mention being more tolerant of larger particles

>>1919050
What brand? Maybe it's too inconsistent with it's mesh size and/or distribution? Or the nozzle is worn and accumulating wood particles inside of it until it ends up clogging which is why it takes a roughly consistent amount of time.

Is the prusa mk3 worth the money? I don't want to fuck around with chink shit.

>>1919132
If you want to spend your time printing and not tinkering with the printer then it probably is worth your money.

How often should you replace a nosel if you’re just printingnPLA?

>>1919143
When you start printing denim

>tfw small blobs every here and there
>glittery filament, phone doesn't focus properly
checked esteps, if anything it was underextruding a bit, time for more troubleshooting
>>1919044
>half a kilo
yeah that is one of the reasons I got it, if its crap I so have wasted that much. if it turns out good I'll try cheaper alternatives.
>>1919143
every three months give or take of you feel your quality goes south

>>1919154
>glittery filament
Maybe the additive is making small clogs?

>>1919154
>>1919153
I think it’s replacement time and I’m scared to fuck up something because I’m fucking retarded

>>1919159
As long as you do it real nice and careful and only change the nozzle, you shouldn't be fucking too much. Don't worry. Most you can fuck up is the new nozzle, which wasn't part of your setup, or your old nozzle, which supposedly is already fucked up.
Pic of a recent print?

>>1919160
Idk if it’s a setting, belts are loose or my nozzle needs changing but my lithophane box looks like trash on the inside and the back and sides aren’t much better

Im doing a benchy right now

Is there a good brand of nozzles I should be looking at?

Has anybody had success installing Cura 4 on Debian Buster? The repos have only Cura 3. I have added the testing repos and pinned everything by default to stable, to no avail:

# /etc/apt/sources.list.d/official-package-repositories.list
deb http://http.debian.net/debian/ testing main contrib non-free
# /etc/apt/preferences.d/package-repositories.pref
Package: *
Pin: release a=stable
Pin-Priority: 900

>>1919173
Note: I have tried both apt install cura/testing and apt install -t testing cura, but there's a bunch of dependency bullshit

>>1919077
That was my idea, use a larger nozzle for the woodfill, because particles and strands. Trying to drop the fucking flow a little, maybe? 120% might be too much, trying 100%. These are also better nozzles than whatever chinkshit comes with the Chiron.

>>1919135
Depends on how much the extra money and your time matters to you. They even seem to have a lot of options in their firmware menu I don't have in my Chinese Arty Genius. But the assembled version cost four times as much than mine, and their set seems to take 10 hours to assemble, six for one with experience in printers.

New Thread
>>1919237

How do I exactly know if my belts are not tight enough? Also, I have a slider to tighten my belts for X by moving this little slider to the right, but it always was in the most extreme position anyways, so I can't even tighten the belts more. What now? Do I already need new belts? I printed maybe one kilogram so far, or a bit more. Got my first shifting layers today, though this was because the bed wasn't level anymore, I guess.