/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1910334
>>1910339

I made a Lyre in cad software. Now I'm printing it out and will report back if it sounds good or not. I've designed instruments in the past with some success.

>>1910398
Out of interest.
Why bother printing something that could be cut and drilled in about half an hour?

>>1910295
>I can see small holes in the preview of a slice based on a face model, with curves and details. It uses a scaled down model (Prusa Slicer). Is this going to be a problem? They are very small, it happens when the nozzle turns around. I assume they will be filled automatically with molten plastic, but who knows? Also looks to me like it slows down the print, when it could have gone from one side to the other.
>>1910339

>>1910405
I'm not very experienced with wood working.

>>1910389
>mfw waiting for new prototype part to print
this one's only 30 minutes but it's taking foreverrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr just fucking print already dammit i wanna see if it works

how long until mmu clones are cheap and popular enough that we can multiplex them to have 25+ color printing

>>1910433
Those will definitely be visible as scarring unless you're planning to post-process that. Your walls are too thin

Does anyone have suggestions for a good denim filament brand?

What is the flexible filament equivalent of painter's tape?
It becomes part of the print with flexible

>>1910433
>>1910395
- Check if your model is not garbage.
- Try turning "detect thin walls" on in the slicer in expert/layers/quality.
- Maybe inflate the mesh by a tiny amount in meshmixer. Press Ctrl+A to select the whole mesh, then D to extrude tool and select normal in the direction. Play with the amount.

>>1910608
>denim filament
>denim
sorry, what?

>>1910629
I want to start printing denim m8

>>1910632
ask >>1910099

>>1910605
>>1910615
It was the size of the model, I scaled it down to much. Probably to small for the nozzle. Not sure if this even have been visible, because the flow of material would have closed them.

who /CR-6 SE/ here?

Mine is currently 'in transit'

> dat strain gauge bed levelling

>>1910389
>tfw shit print made the op
It's almost embarrassing.

Why do people whine about manual bed leveling so much? It takes me 30 seconds to go around the corners twice with a piece of printer paper, and most of the time it's already good.

>>1910839
>not mesh levelling

yikes.

>>1910389
>not one, not two but three of my flawed prints made it into the OP
what a beginner friendly general
I got my silicagel today and will tune my printer over the weekend, also ordered a volcano hotend and bmg-clone so I can print more dignity-free stuff. another info i picked up from a YouTube video today regarding the denim-quality: I used a nozzle that came with a really cheap set, but was still the most expensive I could get fast from amazon. a dozen of nozzles for about 10€, I think they might be shit altogether.
>screwed in first nozzle
>got leaking, threw it away immediately
>try next one
>almost no leaks but denim quality

>>1910889
>not one, not two but three of my flawed prints made it into the OP

That's because this general is dying, 20 posts in 20 hours. And for good reason, some mod banned me for three weeks because I posted a picture of a 3d printed gun in here because some one was asking why they look so ugly. That was the last time I posted anything helpful or gave a shit in here.

Then the pandemic and jogger riots started and people were regularly discussing making guns in here. Bravo 4chins moderation team.

>>1910889
Leaking is not due to the nozzle, it just means that you nozzle isn't properly butted against the heatbreak

What 3D modeling software is the way to go for 3d printing? I want to make creatures (scale models) as well as buildings. I've tried blender but the interface is an abortion stuck in a blender with a pack of crayons. I'm willing to put the effort in each say to learn how to create things but I want a UI that makes sense. Think of it like GIMP vs photoshop, GIMP just works, Photoshop is a cluster fuck of too many niche options.

>when your 6hr print is at 99%

>>1910991
>layer shifts

>>1910993

First Lithophane I’ve ever done and I didn’t even do fine detail and I think it came out pretty nice.
(My cousins doggo)

>>1911010
Looks nice, what did you use to turn pictures into models?

>>1911014
https://www.lithophanemaker.com/Lithophanes.html

>>1910764
Hope to get one soon for the bed leveling feature. Too bad they keep getting sold out, I don't know if they'll even have a black friday sale at this rate.

>>1910957
They're all too busy keeping trap and BBC and xyz WYTE BOI threads alive and bumped on /b/ /pol/ and /gif/

No one will notice right guys? It's just a weird mushroom yea?

>>1911060
> when your magic mushrooms start tripping on themselves

>>1911065
>and suddenly a spaghetti monster attacks, roll for initiative

>>1910398
It is finished and sounds nice.

>>1911028
Unlikely.
They're still shipping out those of us who paid on the cuckstarter.

I got one for £230 on there ($310)

I think retail is like over $420

>>1910957
>mods are fags
news at 11.

>>1910839
>> Bed leveling
It can take a bit to get it right, but it shouldn't be necessary to be repeated often. Using the paper only to get it vaguely right, not to having a scratching nozzle on my bed. Then I'm using the test from teaching tech: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

>>1910990
>> Software
First there is mesh modelling and parametric design / CAD. You might need both and then also combine them, which Blender seems to do. I'm new to this myself. This question is only partially related to printing and more /3dcg/ territory, opinions on what software to use for modelling differ a lot. However Fusion360, Blender and Meshmixer seem to be the way to go in 3d printing.

>>1910994
Should have installed closed loop stepper motors: https://youtu.be/eM8zSG8fEkk

>>1911060
Put some resin on it, let it cure in sunlight. Or use one which doesn't need sunlight.

>go to hardware store to buy hardware for link related
>$15 just for loose nuts and bolts
>extra $15 for pipe because they don't sell it in short lengths
>plus filament and bearings
>almost as much as an official dremel press
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4148260
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4562709
Would it be possible to get the hardware for cheaper on ebay/aliexpress?

>>1910850
>not using a flat plate of glass
Sweaty, I...

>>1911162
>glass
>flat
oh, sweaty...

>>1911161
Just go on craigslist and get an actual drill press.

>>1911146
My print was fine >>1911010

Me being
>>1910991
>>1910994

>>1911161
Oh wow, how cool is this. Thanks. Screws are cheap on Ali, yes. Your numbers are insane, do you live in NYC?

Anyone tried this with your spools, or what are you doing with them?
https://youtu.be/TTKBXVxgV3M
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/digitaltaxidermy/spool-tower-multilevel-modular-scenery-construction-system

>>1910990
>I've tried blender but the interface is an abortion stuck in a blender with a pack of crayons
Did you use the keyboard shortcuts much?
I got into blender when I first started printing following blenderGuru's anvil tutorial.
After I got the feel of using the keyboard a lot, it really felt like molding clay and manipulating meshes felt intuitive.
Seems like it was made from an artists perspective.
Learning the Keyboard shortcuts might change your perspective
Blender wasn't really my thing though, not an artist

what's most common reason for PETG curling on Glass with glue stick? not enough bed heat I have it at 50degrees or too far away from bed on first layer?

>>1910629
He wants to print bulletproof stuff

>>1911243
m8 you want 70-80c bed temp for petg even pla would probably peel off at 50

Autodesk is gonna fuck us.,

>>1911265
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/changes-to-fusion-360-for-personal-use/

>>1911265
well shit and I haven't even started to learn generative design yet. guess I'll find a student for an edu license.
how are other anons holding up?

>>1911060
Is it supposed to be a plastic penis?

>>1911114
Why don't you play something for us?

>>1911265
>no rapid feed
Well fuck you guys then.

>>1911283
Here is a test of what it sounds like.

https://vocaroo.com/1nKXVHlofsoI

Kinda looking into getting a laser engraver (or possibly engraver/cutter) so supplement other things to put on my 3D prints, like Acrylics and wood or leathers. I couldn't find a thread about that elsewhere, so hoping some anon could point me in the right direction for what I should be looking for.

I found a cheap two axis laser setup on Amazon but the wattage was listed as 500MW, which I assume is just a typo and it was suppose to be 500mW. Any thing cheap that at least could get my engraving itch satisfied for the above mentioned materials?

>>1910957
>when the resinposters post more than the FDuMbass posters

btw it was me lol

>>1911330
Thin your paints, and use more highlights you novice.

Also, stop acting like you're amazing for having a $300 SLA printer. I have both and they both have their separate uses.

Lithophane #2
Higher detail
9hrs

I’m just in awe at how beautiful it came out

>>1911348
Stupid sideways mobile post
In honest the camera doesn’t do it justice

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4225569
So i'm using an Anycubic Photon S.

To Print this im going to have to slice, at least the side panels up a bit.
Fitting it on the build plate is my issue,
I'm confident i can get that done, take a few prints but whatever

Question is, Would it be any good Resin printed?

>>1911162
I design structural glass for a living.

Glass columns and beams.

Glass ain't flat.

>>1911333
>2printers
>0prints
Yeah, like not posting prints on a dying print general lol

>>1911312
You can get laser heads for mounting onto 3d printers. Current flavour of eye burning is a 5W blue laser (nichia NUBM44 / NUBM47) which is marketed as all sorts of nonsense like 15W blue laser. Even at 5W it's pretty weak and needs multiple passes for things more than a few mm thick. 500mW is a toy and would barely engrave anything.

>>1911351
>Question is, Would it be any good Resin printed?
Sure. Flywheelers don't really need that much structure.

>>1911410
Nice drop Vault Hunter

>>1911333
Checked.
>replying to a toyfag....

>>1911201
>Your numbers are insane, do you live in NYC?
No, rural Midwest. The local hardware store charged that much for their loose metric hardware

>>1911265
>>1911293
>>1911274
>Use cloud-based software you don't own
>be surprised when the software maker uses their power to fuck you over
Come on, guys. This is Botnet 101.

>>1911452
I'm not that surprised, just bummed out.

>>1911452
Every time I let my guard down, I get burnt. I learned and have used Fusion for a while now, I have a CNC, the removal of tool changes and removal of rapids is horrible.
Stallman is always right

>>1911312
Make sure you watch videos on security instructions. These machines should be in an extra room with warning sign on the door, you cant be in there without protective glasses. Either you always wear them when entering or should have a light which signals the machine is on. Fumes are also an issue. If the laser is strong enough to hurt your skin, you should also have an emergency off switch at hand.
In general you should be able to find good videos for this, I can't recommend one in particular. If you have a separate space from your living area, a small mill might be an alternative to work on Aluminium boards, wood, and I think also Acrylic.

>>1911114
Yep, it does.
>>1911348
Yes. Great.

>>1911442
One of your links was for the US version, to avoid the globally more common metric system, and keep it all American.

>>1911504
It said it only changed the pipe to a 1 inch pipe, it still uses metric hardware for the other stuff.

Guess I'm gonna warez solidworks now that free Fusion is getting neutered.

>>1911373
>>1911504
Thanks, the only thing I'm noticing is there seems to be a few variances in what articles I've read say is the necessary power levels needed for the materials.

Also I dont know if I'd want to try to put a laser on my Chiron, that Y axis for the bed doesn't seem like it would like moving as fast as stated for how lasers work. But I could be totally wrong and just assuming things, the bed is really heavy though.

I'd set this to operate in a second bedroom I have that isn't being used for anything except possibly study as I just started school again, which has a large window to allow fumes to fuck off, so I think i'm good there.

I really want to avoid milling as theres lots of carpet and I just cant be arsed to deal with cleaning that.

I have a Resin printer. I also want to print guns.
Obviously due to size and brittleness constraints I probably can't print most guns, but if I used a more ABS-like resin would something like a liberator work?

Also if anyone knows where to get an STL for a good mag-fed dartgun (not a nerf gun, just one that shoots darts) please direct

>>1911574
I hope you enjoy shrapnel.

howdy
i'm trying to print a case cover in petg
its 10 x 3 x 0.11 "
i already have the same piece printed before
same alignment same settings and so on
the first thing is i cant get it to stick to the bed if i print faster than 20mm/s
during printing on layer 5 and higher the individual lines start to warp and not stick anymore which leads to a chunk of material around the nozzle clogging it
i spend a hour doing auto bed leveling and adjusting the bed screws, the last two measurements were like this :
0 1 2
0 -0.055 +0.050 +0.010
1 +0.020 +0.017 -0.063
2 +0.007 +0.052 -0.030
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 -0.057 +0.067 +0.010
1 +0.032 +0.017 -0.052
2 +0.005 +0.048 -0.030

i get a perfect brim measured the ones from the failed prints and it was like 90% of the measurements at 0.2mm layer height

now i print the brim and it starts to print the first layers of some screw holes and other connections in the part but they dont stick
it prints the circles but after two or three revolutions the material sticks to the nozzle and just gets ripped off also sticks to the nozzle and i cant get it off because the printhead is too bulky
if i widen the gap with babystepping the z axis, filament doesnt even stick when printing the skirt , its just like thin round strings and it barely sticks when printing straight (always gets dragged in the corners)

i think i am getting crazy just a week ago i printed the same material same manufacturer at 75mm/s

the only thing i did was put lock nuts around the bed leveling screws so they wont turn themselves when turning the adjustment wheel but this cant be it or am i missing something ?
i mean i leveled the bed to the best of my abilities and the layer height is cool but what am i skipping here
pls no bulli

>>1911574
There are 3d printable guns. Almost all of them are proof of concept and have parts that must be replaced after a single shot. In short, they're not worth it. You can print some handgun lowers but I wouldn't trust them long term.

>>1911586
>printing faster than 20mm/s
i forgot to add that i get sort of acceptable results (except the rings around the screw holes) but i must print ad 5 or 10mm/s

>>1911574
You should go all the way down the rabbit hole and use your prints for sand or investment casting.

anybody ever print a drill guide? i need to drill some deep holes relatively close to the wall of some aluminum stock, so i can't just eyeball it. i can't get a drill press right now. do you think the guide will hold up long enough to get a hole started, or is it a retarded idea?

>>1911598
should probably note that they're 2.5mm and 3.3mm holes, so not a huge drill bit or anything.

>>1911598
There's a thing on thingiverse that lets you use your dremel as a drill press.

>>1911586
>>1911590
My winning combination for petg is
>dial in z offset if needed
>heat the bed to 75 (80+ is better but will kill my magnet mat, 75 always works just fine for me though)
>probe the fully heated bed
>purge line (other than priming the nozzle it also cleans off the leakage from the nozzle)
>raft
>1st layer-10mm/s (slow as fuck = all but guaranteed good adhesion)
>middle layer(s)-15mm/s
>top layer-25mm/s
>1st part layer-15mm/s (even though it's already printing on plastic want to make sure it goes down correctly because it's not going to be pressed into the raft)
>the rest-50mm/s
That works for me every single time without fail so far and the the prints always come out looking good and in a reasonable time span, obviously not as fast as pla at 100+mm/s but still. Bonus points with the raft that it makes the chance of it permanently fusing to your mat / glass highly unlikely unless your nozzle is like a micron away.

>>1911605
this is neat, thanks. strangely I have a legit dremel and it looks nothing like the one shown on thingiverse though.

>>1911586
>>1911590
disregard i am a fucking retard
the fucking extruder motor is dead
i was printing with the dripping nozzle the whole day

>>1911610
thanks for the effort fren but i am just a doofus
should have printed one of those extruder wheel thingies (see >>1911634)

Hmm, looks like there is a way to have a legit solidworks personal license for $40/year.

https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center

>>1911653
Or just pirate premium and have it free forever

>>1911587
Ah, gotcha. Maybe I'll stick to using the Resin Printer for things like Rails and other accessories that aren't meant to contain an explosion, lol

>>1911592
How feasible is this? Would I be able to cast a barrel? Say I wanted to make like, an AR15, Is it feasible for me to print out the upper and lower and barrel, then cast it with aluminum or something?

>>1911587
>>1911574
>but I wouldn't trust them long term
The FMDA glock frame (with rail inserts) has run well over 2k rounds for people who tested it. However, normally people print with FDM and not SLA, so I don't know how long a resin frame would hold up. Might as well get the right printer for gun manufacturing, instead of rolling the dice with resin.

>>1911664
>Say I wanted to make like, an AR15, Is it feasible for me to print out the upper and lower and barrel, then cast it with aluminum or something?
You could cast the upper and lower out of aluminium, but you'd have to do loads of finishing work because your casts are probably going to be hideous and dimensionally inaccurate. And casting a barrel is not going to happen, don't even waste time thinking about it.

If you're a yuropoor, get an Ender 3 and stick to making the FGC9. If you're in the US, get an Ender 3 for your lower and buy the upper and parts. That's the easiest way.

I wouldn’t trust a 3D printed firearm with my life

>>1911664
>How feasible is this?
100%, why wouldn't it be?
>Would I be able to cast a barrel?
ehhhhh I wouldn't even think about it for more than a 22 and I would make sure the chamber is extra thicc. Even then you're probably better off making it with the intention of putting in a steel insert and rifling that for safety and longevity. Anything bigger especially Center fire? Don't even bother it will explode 100% especially if you try to profile it like a production steel barrel.
>Say I wanted to make like, an AR15, Is it feasible for me to print out the upper and lower and barrel, then cast it with aluminum or something?
Lower, absolutely. I personally would use a version with a reinforced buffer Tower intended for use as printed just to give it a bit more meat considering cast pot metal aluminum isn't going to be nearly as strong as Billet or forged 6061. Upper you can, but it'll be more difficult because of the thin walls and may have poor longevity or break apart from the bolt carrier flying around and the Recoil Force. They're so cheap and unregulated (in the US at least) so I would just buy it. Barrel, as I said above, don't even think about it it's going to explode 100% without question Only Exception being if it's 22 even then like I said the bare minimum I would do is and extra thick profile Barrel and then a steel insert which you can rifle with a button or EDM

>>1911692
Then you're dumb because they are proven to work well. Good for one shot if the whole thing is printed. Good for many many shots if you can get a diy barrel.

>>1911692
Would you rather trust your life to a 3d printed firearm, or no firearm at all due to oppressive laws or insufficient money? That's the target demographic printed guns are mainly intended for.

>>1910850
>saying yikes
yowza

>gaps around holes
>weak infill
How the fuck do I fix this?

>>1911731
>yowza

Wow-wee you're a cuck

>>1911754

>>1911726
If you can afford a 3D printer you can afford a firearm
If you cant legally have a firearm because of past criminal activities then perhaps you shouldn’t have a deadly weapon
If you’re some europoor with authoritarian laws, we’ll sucks to be you

So neither

>>1911767
>If you’re some europoor with authoritarian laws, we’ll sucks to be you
Plenty of authoritarian laws in the US too. 3d printing can help.

>>1911778
Based and DIYpilled

>>1911778
There’s a difference between printing like an accessory for a firearm than printing a firearm made of layers of shit plastic
I don’t live in a shithole like NY or CA so I don’t have to worry about pointless and stupid firearm laws.

>>1911778
DIAS is better than LL

>>1911783
>implying
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zabSOHd0Ag

>>1911661
this. paying for that software is literally more annoying than pirating it.

>>1911410
Damn, looks bigger than I thought,
But all good.

Where’d you get the drum mag from?
Maybe I should just design and make one for myself.....
Or fuck, maybe I should make that top load pan mag I was thinking of a whole back...

>>1911783
>I don’t live in a shithole like NY or CA so I don’t have to worry about pointless and stupid firearm laws.
Not everyone does. Why is it so difficult for you to grasp that a thing can be useful for other people even if it is not useful to you?

>>1911784
but thats literally a dias and not a ll

>>1911754
>>1911757
You're underextruding. See if your nozzle is clogged, your slicer settings for nozzle size is correct, or try adjusting the line width setting.

>>1911587
See
>>1911790

How are JGMakers? They just started a Kickstarter for a new model with a dual Eetruder that looks really good. I already have an Ender 3 I've put a little work into, but just like guns once you get one you want more.

>>1911792
>Where’d you get the drum mag from?
The files were made by Sim Lim (BlasterforgePH) f_book_domain /1321012729/posts/10223577686693191/

Alternatively you can use this nonsense
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4239032

>>1911354
how is float glass not flat enough for printing?

>>1911503
I've been angling to get a CNC myself, what features are they cutting that are useful? I'd rather not invest time into learning Fusion if it turns out the things I need are going to be removed soon

Can some slicer or other program export the picture of a layer? Like a 2D view from the top as a picture. Without a lot of work, bonus for console script. Selecting the hight and getting some maximum would even be better. I want to import it into a CAD program and design with the constraints of the form the mechanism has to fit into.

>>1911909
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_the_2D_Subsystem#3D_to_2D_Projection

>>1911906
Rapid traverse, no more quick moves, no more tool changes, no more 4th/5th axis so no more rotary tables.
May as well just use something else entirely if they're doing that.

>>1911778
>authoritarian laws
Good job coping with being a criminal.

>>1911073
>>1911348
Let's talk about dogs.
How do we print them?
Do they like being printed?
How do we digitize them?

>>1911783
>he lives in a welfare red state
kek

>>1911991
Yes, it really really sucks here. The first chance I get, I'm gonna move somewhere that's not so full, like Cali. Just gotta wait for my apartment lease to end.

>>1911778

Finished my griffon project. thanks /ohm/ for helping with the electronics to make the eyes flicker. Pardon my crack hands.

>>1911940
>not following unconstitutional laws
>criminal
Pick one and only one, redcoat.

>>1911991
Nope

>>1911918
Oh looks great, thanks.

>>1911964
>Let's talk about dogs.
>How do we print them?
>Do they like being printed?
>How do we digitize them?
James Bruton knows best about that: https://youtu.be/esQAom1P5ul

>>1911964
>how do we print them?
https://youtu.be/esQAom1P5uI

So I'm trying to create a replica part for a friend's model train set, it's a chimney stack that he's missing. they are all identical. My question is, I'm a blender noobie and I can't seem to figure out how to do anything in set measurements. I understand blender isn't really a CAD program as much as an artistry program, so scale doesn't matter, but are there any addons that allow absolute measurements? I've done more work in sketchup but they turned it into an awful webapp unless you pay for it. Should I just say fuck it and use sketchup?

>>1911905
Because pouring solidus glass onto a bath of liquid metal doesn't make flat glass.

>>1912199
I don't know about CAD workflow in Blender, but it looked okay, otherwise use SketchUp or learn Solvespace (OpenFuckingSource!).

>>1912255
>>1912199
Or learn the greatness of lidar scanning

https://youtu.be/SuNNyjs9BO8

https://youtu.be/UyWoVoGbY6s

>>1912199
It's been a few years since I've used blender.
IIRC there's a place to put in numbers
Seems like you draw a cylinder and the numbers fill in and you just change them.

>>1912255
>Solvespace
wow this looks perfect, thanks.

>>1911010
border collies best doggo.

>>1911991
>Believes the media propaganda like a good negroid living in a blue welfare state
kek

>>1912146
But, I want to replicate a real doggo

>>1912267
Actually it’s an Australian Sheppard mutt but a very good doggo

>>1912258
>Lidar scanning
Didn't watch it yet, but I don't think this is gonna replace modelling anytime soon.

>>1912265
>Solvespace
Just be aware that it can't import many other file formats, I think only some dxf files. All these programs have their limits. If you share a model, also put the Solvespace file in it, editing STL sucks.

>>1912274
Cloning dogs is of topic here. There are companies for that, but it's rather stupid. Also, Lainchan has a biohacking thread...

My printer makes a knocking sound or something like it, when travelling fast from one edge to the one on the other side vertically, or generally when moving the bed fast from one side to the other. Do I need to be worried? Are the wheels to dirty or are the screws to rigid?

>>1912289
>Actually it’s an Australian Sheppard
Australian Shepherd is best doggo

>>1912334
>Cloning dogs is off topic here
I will not obey unjust edicts.

>>1912344
Never mind, it stopped, so it probably was dirt.

>>1912385
How cool is this: https://youtu.be/RoGpmob0-uI
Not only his it two print heads, but also something I thought should exist, replacing nozzles by pressing a button. This alone might spare one the trouble buying two printers, one for fine and one for fast.

How cool is this: https://youtu.be/RoGpmob0-uI
Not only his it two print heads, but also something I thought should exist, replacing nozzles by pressing a button. This alone might spare one the trouble buying two printers, one for fine and one for fast.

Also, what free program can import .step files and maybe export them to dxf or some other CAD format? Free software for Linux preferred.

Are there any good sources other than these threads I should look at for learning more about 3D printing? Complete newfag btw

>>1912479
Seriously? You can't find infos on the Internet?
Youtube: Sanladerer, CNC Kitchen, Teaching Tech, Makers Muse,...
Reddit: /FixMyPrint/ and others.
Or just use a search engine to find some sites with tutorials...

>>1912490
Appreciate it man.

Anyone else looking at the elegoo saturn? Is there anything else currently on the market with that size for that price?

>>1911780
>Based and DIYpilled
RBG is dead!
Hooray! Our DIY rights are safe for now!

>>1912479
>Are there any good sources other than these threads
No.

>>1912513
Forgot those:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>>1912462
What is the best IDEX anons have used?

I'm looking for filament that resembles pbt or the surface of Dell's Latitudes 5570-5590 in feel and possible structure. Any recommendations how to proceed on that besides just ordering 20 different plastic bricks from one of the bigger services?

What's your current print?

I'm.printing the roof to a model.houss. 28 hour print at 0.12 layer height with ironing. Working on a diorama and need a nice house for it.

>>1912199
Just use tinkercad. It's designed for this sort of thing and easy to use.

Has anyone found a good medical grade spray on or paint on polyurethane or silicone to coat their dildos?
This should fix the problem with the plastic being porous and give it some extra strength.

Fuck me, how do I make a split mold of this irregular thing?

>>1912553

There haven't really been any IDEX printers in the sub-1000$ range. That chinky-named one that anon posted is the first one i've seen.

>>1912462
>what free program can import .step files and maybe export them to dxf or some other CAD format?

I use FreeCAD for that

16 fucking hours, longest print I ever had. Too many retracrion.

>>1910501
Why the fuck do you need that

>>1912653
Is it a speccy case?

ive been printing petg for a while now. unfortunately, the brand i used for about a year went out of business. im trying various other brands, but i constantly run into one problem. i get small blobs of material in some areas of the print (im not really sure what causes them, maybe new layer start?). these blobs then rub on my cooling fan air duct (which is roughly 1,5mm above nozzle) and sometimes even move the print plate (i use both magnets and clips, if these blobs are big enough, the plate moves even with clips applied).
pic related are the blobs. i hope the quality is good enough, i marked them with yellow circles.
i know that petg has a tendency for these blobs to appear, but the previous brand i used rarely ever had this problem. this problem is also especially bad on thin wall parts.
my current retraction is set to 2mm length and 25mm/s speed (bowden setup with chineesium bondtech extruder).
im not really sure where to start with solving this problem. should i print some retraction tests? should i increase or decrease retraction settings? is this even caused by retraction?

>>1912661
Yep, a clone that is.

>>1912654
Not the same Anon, but had the same idea. Every new option is a good thing. It's obvious that anons that print visible parts might profit from that, e.g. for landscapes, dolls / figurines, toys, ... Though, mixing a few colors might be the better way in many cases.

>>1912636
Ah, Free CAD can import .step?!? Didn't show up when I showed for it with 'apt cache search', so I didn't even look into it. Thanks.

What is the best auto leveling system that exists for FDM? I used to have an Ender 3 Pro a while ago but I've been without a printer for a long time now. I never want to fuck with leveling again though.

Close call, brehs.

>>1912726
bltouch.
ive tried inductive, capacitive, servo (with endswitch) and bltouch (in this order). i bought a cheap chineesium bltouch clone for $12 and have completely stopped searching for upgrades.

>>1912726
I've had a Prusa MK2S for two years and the induction sensor works alright but it seems to be really affected by bed temperature, recently I've tried out the temperature calibration thingy that supposedly helps with that but I haven't gotten enough experience with it yet to give a definitive opinion. If I had to go with some sensor now I would probably go with the bltouch since I've heard that they're alright and it being a simple mechanical switch really does give you a lot of flexibility when it comes to different temperatures and bed materials.

>>1912726

just get a glass bed (they are quite flat and stay that way) and level by hand

ABL is a meme since the Z axis would have to start microstepping to compensate for the mesh ABL which reduces precision.

Stay with whole steps and level by hand my good sir

>>1912653
My longest print was 5 days with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.1 layer height, it came out almost perfect c:

>>1912567
prototyping a phone holder for my car
it has round vents and a a fin right in the middle so amazon-stuff doesnt work
might be able to make some money off of it since my countries car forum is looking for a well-fitting solution

>>1912626
Mold will have to be curved to the top and Another half to the bottom.

>>1912730
>pr*sa
Was it at least ABS or some other high shrink rate material

>>1912791
It's a PETG support on the edge of the bed that probably needs 5° more than the guy who made the enclosure model set.

>>1912758
glass bed is a meme if you print something sticky, like petg.
i destroyed 3 sheets of glass due to parts sticking way too strongly. the only way to reliably remove petg parts is with flexible print surface coated with PEI and removing the parts while theyre still hot.

>>1912814
PETG sticks very strongly on PEI too.
I spray a bit of silicone grease on my print surface.

>>1912736
What's the name of chink brtouchu?

Anyone know what paint works best on PLA??

>>1912852
Acrylics work fine. I use vallejo, army painter and scale 75 all day long. Pla isn't anything fancy.

Is there any way to print a full bed raft with nothing on it? I want a flat top.

>>1912636
>That chinky-named one
That is why I don't want to touch it. Maybe Prusa will develop an upgrade if there is enough demand.

>>1912668
What is speccy?

>>1912609
I am not sure if the wood finishing polyurethane sealant sprays would irritate sensitive skin especially when there is some friction. Maybe would work though.

>>1912083
this is a clean project you go there
nice

>>1912901
ZX Spectrum, an 8-bit compuler from 1980s

>>1912668
Awesome, I had a ZX+ when I was little.

>>1912758
Are you really worried about hundredths of a mm when you're doing .4 lines with .2 layers?

>>1912866
>Make object with x&y as big as the bed and z 1 layer tall
>Print with raft
>Peel off sheet from raft
Just know when you print something on it if you don't use the post raft 1st layer height (I think cura default is .3 with .2 normal layers) it's just going to stick to the raft and you'll have a giant raft for no reason. In fact it'll probably stick anyway, unless you make it with a higher temp material than you want to print with.

>>1912925
I want to make 4chins browser for the fucking thing with help of spectranet cartridge.

>>1912726
>What is the best auto leveling system
I don't have any, you should only need to readjust every other month or when changing some hardware. Get a testprint for first layer, and print it a few times. Can't link to it bc I'd get autobanned for spam.

>All these people complaining about leveling
Am I just immune? I don't think I've ever leveled beyond paper under nozzel and I've never changed the ratty plate sticker on my monoprice makerselect v2. It's like a prusia clone. I just lay down a brim before every print and it impacts the first layer and builds on that.

What do you people with pets do with your printer fumes? I'm sure a dog would be fine and maybe a cat, but a bird or other small pet seems to be at great risk.

>>1913110
Depends on your bed and what you print. My bed is a bit warped (not much, but its impossible to level, theres always few tenths difference) and i sometimes print big projects (250x250 or so on a 300x300 bed). Before i had bltouch it was near impossible to get a proper first layer and i would have to just pray it works out fine. This usually meant printing the first layer 5-10 times before i get lucky.

>>1913194
If I had a bird I would have a resin printer/abs nylon polycarb etc printer be in the garage.

>>1913194
Doggo doesn't like even PLA fumes.
Doggo also doesn't like fire hazards.
Doggo and printer don't live in the same structure.

>>1912567
a small jack-o-lantern for my DM.

>>1912852
I prime with the same rustoleum as my minis. Putting paints on is still for shit because they're not smooth where they should be.

>>1913194
I literally print in the water of my goldfish's fishtank and I've only lost 2.

>>1912840
i think i got mine from triangle, cost about $12. dont have any problems with it, been using for about a year or so now.

>>1912825
yeah, i fucked one pei sheet with petg too, although its still way better than glass. way more expensive though.
does the grease not cause problems with adhesion? i found that flexing the sheet while the print is hot to be easy and reliable way to remove petg from pei.

>>1913283
I only use a bit, it still adheres well.
I don't have a magnetic bed so I can't flex it.

>>1912626
>>1912788

Wish me luck bros, here goes fucking nothing.

No one ever said that being a gangster was going to be easy.

>>1913306
Good luck, and post results of... whatever the fuck it is you're casting.

>tfw fell for skr mini e3 v2 meme
This thing doesn't work, I only get a blue screen. I tried reinstalling stock firmware, precompiled ones on btt github and I also compiled from source. Checked all the wires, used 3 different sd cards. The board does install the firmware but all I get is a blue screen. Any anons who have experience?

>>1913378
rotate LCD connector

>>1913382
It only goes one way, do I file off the tab?

>>1913384
yes, only on one end, I did the side on the SKR, also make sure it's plugged into EXP2 or whatever on the LCD board

>>1913387
Holy shit anon it worked!
I have spent hours on this fucking thing and rotating it solved it.
I wonder why there is no solution anywhere on the forums.
Thank you m8

Reminder: Export your parametric files now from Fusion360 and warn everyone about it! You have 10 days left.

Oh, and this is big: https://youtu.be/bG8dlxTX3AI
Quite some work, but it's making FDM printed PETG parts 3x stronger in the weaker direction. Like if they were injection molded, if I understand it correctly. Also, PLA parts annealed without warping.

>>1913194
PLA seems not to release anything toxic at an amount which would be a problem if the window is open. You cold place a HEPA airfilter close to the pri ter.

>>1912726
There's also a print in place Dial Indicator from a guy named Sunshine. Didn't try that, but gonna print it soon.

>>1913402
I always thought PETG was stronger than PLA to begin with?

When should I consider adding supports to a print? The recessed underside (~5mm) of a print I made was fucked up around the screwholes but adding supports really dragged out the production time.

>>1913410
Pla is super stiff but brittle, petg is "tougher" because it can yield without breaking

>>1913427
You can design round holes on the undersides of parts to not require supports if you're smart enough.

>>1913306
Good luck on your shoe insole.

>>1913438
helpful.

>>1913480
The rest is up to you.

>>1913427
Creating for printing helps: https://youtu.be/SBHHwid7DWM
Also adding manual supports. In Prusa that sometimes works, but not always for me, didn't complete figure it out yet. I didn't try Meshmixer yet, but it seems to way to go. And its totally free ...

>>1913438
Or closing them with one small bridging layer, like described in the vid I've linked above (from Angus / Makers Muse).

>>1913490
Those are some pretty good tips. Is the strength of the print affected by which orientation its printed in? For example, a rectangle printed vertically will be made out of smaller slices than if it was printed horizontally.

did anyone else not know these existed or am i the only one that didnt get the memo?

>>1913535
I cannot imaging spending 80 to wrap my 200 printer when cardboard would do just fine.

>>1913547
>>1913547
>cardboard

>>1913535
Just you, sorry.

Been contemplating buying one for my printer so I can do nylon and PC.

>>1913308
...whatever the fuck it is you're casting
>>1913306
It appears to be an exotic dildo.

>>1913402
Fuck. It should be plaster! How did I not realize this?
I have tried this with other methods with minor improvements in durability.

>>1913478
>Good luck on your ---shoe insole-- dildo

>>1913535
Is it really useful though?

>>1913535
$4 on amazon

i bought an Ender 3 at 150€, I am now legally allowed to post here

>>1913689
You still forgot your shitposting loicense. That'll be a 5000€ fine.

>>1913710
fuck

Fuck this board is slow and getting slower every day. Is there an active 3D printing chan board somewhere? 8kun? Discord? Telegram?

>>1913741
https://boards.4chan.org/diy/3dp
https://boards.4chan.org/tg/3dp

>>1913742
I'm retarded and thought I was on a different board. I have too many fucking tabs open

Installed the new CURA and my supports on the red pumpkin were like iron. I had to beat it with a chisel in the garage and wound up splitting the body.

Is it the material? PLA and I've had trouble with layer adhesion, which should be the opposite problem obv. But is there a setting that would affect the supports being welded in place? The gray smaller pumpkins also have too much support adhesion esp. near the base with different settings which could be the model, the new CURA version or my imagination. The gray is my standard PLA go to for everything.

So... what should I try to make supports easier and cleaner with the red PLA?

>>1913741
/tg/ making a general destroyed this one but theirs is all piracy.

>>1913748
I've never not had issues with removing supports from PLA, it always feels like they're really stuck on there vs. ABS where they pretty much just pop off. I have no solution, just my observation.

>>1913748
Cura has god-awful default supports. Unless you manually add tree supports, just expect them to be terrible.

>>1913498
Yes, if I understood your question correctly. More importantly, fdm printed parts are weaker in one direction bc the fused layers are not as strong as the material itself ("layer adhesion"). But the Annealing process described is fusing the layers together to a point it won't matter, at least for PETG.

>>1913571
>>1913624
I'm quite sure it is usefull, but I would rather go further and build something out of fireproof material and put one or two heaters inside, also some exhaust system for the toxic fumes. Then I could do higher temps and would be safe doing so. Though, I didn't look into it yet. Maybe these are good enough, but I think they're rather for ABS, ASA and such. Nylon seem to work close to the bed even without enclosure, but it really likes high temps. How much can I heat those up, and how good will they hold the heat?

>>1913742
Holy F... There's another one? But the other one might be more about toys, tesin and dildos (completely unrelated...)

PETG question, are there any good glues or epoxies that actually work well, that are readily available? unfortunately I'm in leafland and lot of strong chems are hard to get.

>>1913748
Look for "Support Z Distance" in the advanced stuff for supports. This is the distance between the top of the support and bottom of the print.
Another thing is to use tree supports instead of the shitty default pillars.

>>1913785
>dildos
No no no.
This one is the dildo board.

>>1913783
What's the alternative slicer?

>>1913793
Just use gluestick
Anything more and you won't be able to get it off your bed.

>>1913793
watered down PVA (elmer's glue) seems to be the trick, from what I've heard, but never printed PETG myself

>>1913915
>>1913920
sorry man, I should have been more clear I am looking to bond PETG together, I have and ender 2 and have to split up some models but petg is really hard to stick together. I've looked up using a surface primer for CA glue but I have no idea what that is made of. Epoxies are an option but are really thick. I'm just looking for the best hardware store solution I guess.

>>1913922
Weld it together using a rework station or a hair dryer.

>>1913922
i glued a lot of petg parts with generic 2 part epoxies. one slow curing epoxy (24h to fully harden) was so strong, that petg broke perpendicular to layer lines before epoxy.

>>1913934
which brand did you use?, I don't mind waiting for it cure

Someone wanna redpill me on the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k?
>299
>4k screen, 120 x 68mm at 35um
>mono
Seems like a fucking steal. The levelling system seems to be the worst bit when compared to elegoo, but the resolution detail for that price seems otherwordly.

>>1913953

It sounds like a good deal, but if it were me i wouldn't get it. Because 35um or 50um - it doesn't make a big difference to the naked eye, both look good enough. Even 85um is passable for most things - the formlabs printers have that as the laser spot size and nobody seems to mind. Don't forget the LCD is a consumable, and you don't know how much a replacement is going to cost. The new 6'' 2K mono screens that are coming out on the latest printers are already twice the price of the old 5.5'' ones (60$ compared to 30$) so i can imagine a 4K one being about 100$.

>>1913967
>the formlabs printers have that as the laser spot size
Don't forget that the laser doesn't need to go in increments of 85um, though; you can overlap beam paths, to an extent

>>1913967
You're probably not wrong, but I'm hoping some proper comparison models are made to see if there are cases where it can be noticed.
If not I may consider a Saturn instead, outside of fluid dynamics sort of cases I doubt there is a need for them to go under 35um.

>>1913967
Also, the screens on the phrozen site are going for 90usd, so you weren't far off.

>>1913968

Yeah, but in practice that really only results in a smoother looking finish, not actual detail. You can get a similar effect on an MSLA by turning on antialiasing.

>>1913970
>>1913971

My opinion imostly comes from the fact i already have an OG Photon and i have already looked at prints under a microscope (i posted an M3 bolt in an older thread). I think that first generation of 5.5'' MSLAs really nailed the bang per buck you get.

The new mid-size printers like the Saturn intrigue me a lot more than that 4K Phrozen one. The Saturn sounds great, but i'm especially interested in Anycubic's cheaper 2K Photon X that's not monochrome - it's the most affordable for its size, and the max detail is only reduced to 75um. I suspect the screen they're using is the same as the one in the Wanhao D8. That lcd has been in production since 2013 and is 60$ to replace. The 8.9'' 4K monochromes on the other hand are 250$ a piece, i checked.

>>1913975
>$250
Jesus christ. Surely you would expect a massive reduction in the price of replacements, as that means the cost of the saturn is more than half the screen, where the mars is only 10-15% of the screen.
>only reduced to 75um
Would that not begin to enter the realm of visible differences?

>>1913980

The issue is that the monochrome ones need to be custom made, and there is almost no use for them outside of 3d printing. I haven't seen any price reduction of the 5.5'' screens by Sharp since the first MSLAs came out - they've always been 30-40$. The expensive part of these printers used to be the MIPI driver which required a custom IC, but ever since they started using custom mainboards with an FPGA driver that hasn't been an issue. You can take a look at Chitu's aliexpress page to see roughtly what these components cost regardless of printer brand - https://chitu.aliexpress.com/store/2173157

>Would that not begin to enter the realm of visible differences?

I've looked at some video reviews, and i think that while you can tell when looking at it up close, but it's still decent enough for most things. The first batch of pre-order Saturn prototypes were 2K / 75um, and people seemed happy with them. Here's a video with some up-close shots:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNiaVDV771Y

>>1913994
Is the monochrome screen also not supposed to last a lot longer than the regular ones? I've read about ~2k hours for the mono's, with the coloured screens lasting for 500-1000. Phrozen sell the 5.5" 2k LCD for 40usd (you can probably get it cheaper elsewhere), so comparing that to 90 for the 4k mono doesn't seem all that different in price if you print for that much.
I'll try watch the vid later, heading out atm.

How the fuck do I do a complete reset on my Chiron? Get it like clean software and such.

>>1913980
>Would that not begin to enter the realm of visible differences?
Pic related was printed with a Mars 2 Pro, which is also monochrome and has a resolution of 5μm.
As you can see it's clearly visible at this resolution.

>>1913997

That is true, the mono screens let more light through instead of absorbing it and should last longer. It's hard to say how much longer since there's only the marketing pitch on the product pages to go by. But if it's any close to what they say, the price increase per panel would be totally worth it, especially on the smaller models. Btw that guy's channel has a video on the sonic 4K too, you can try to compare them.

>>1913535
Yeah nah, I'm printing my own. Will end up costing the same or more, but it's way more attractive and solid.

>>1914009
>5μm
I meant 50μm, sorry.

>>1914008
I need to reset the bed leveling values in my Chiron and I can't figure it out, anyone got any ideas?

>>1914016
https://imgur.com/gallery/JCBWLT7
I don't even fucking know anymore, anyone got suggestions? I'll be fucking with it in Pronterface, but the ability to get the levels from the bed along with the actual proper screw level would be nice.

>>1914030
It does this whenever I run G29, M502 doesn't do nothing, and I can't push anything behind the G29 command or the printer does a new level
I fucking can't even

>>1914030
>>1914038
i had a simmiliar behavior some days ago
i use a BLTouch on a "OEM" CR10V2 after months of working fine it started to do this and it turned out one of the little female connector thingies that is inside of the plug and grips around the male pin of the inbetween board somehow wiggled itself free and was no longer fully inside the connected plug sticking out and probably briefly lost contact during the bed leveling

despite adjusting the z height in the wrong direction and actually climbing upwards it sometimes didnt work at all, refused to retract the measuring node thing when doing it on its own (from the menu, manually it worked fine tho), anyways after checking the wiring i found the wiggly connector pin , unplugged it and glued the pin inside of the connector so that it would be unable to slip out again, since then it works as usual (in my opinion even better than before because sometimes it would fail during the probing which it hasnt since then)
maybe your cause of the behavior is of a similiar nature ?

also but probably unrelated, i noticed that when i am connected to pronterface, it seems to sometimes send some wakeup signals or something causing the probe to deploy and retract once when the printer was idle, this stopped after i did a reset on the printer through its menu as well as a reset from pronterface, after which it connected properly and is working without issues ever since. another thing was that when i was connected with pronterface to the printer and opened cura at the same time it would mess everything up which is still an issue that forces me to disconnect the printer if i want to open cura while using pronterface. after i open cura while the printer is connected i need to do a reset everytime to work with pronterface, it seems to mess up something with the printer, not sure what the issue there though but it could maybe have caused the odd behavior, depending on your printer maybe cura doesnt have the proper driver...

>>1914046
Checked the probe and the print head carriage where the thing plugs in on the Chiron, both connectors seem fine, even worse so, it does this in a line of the points, one off from the home point, all the way to the back of the bed.

>>1914030
added; yeah i watched your video again and i was reminded of a video from (irrc) Thomas Sanladerer or Michael from Teaching Tech on Youtube about Drag Chains, where he showed a printer with a Y-Axis Drag Chain and where the improper chain caused the wires to rub against the inside of the chain, removing the insulation material and short circuiting it. your printer seems to be working on row 0, 3 and 4 row 1 and 2 seem to be acting up, my guess would be that if it was a software issue (i.e. changed + and - Z direction in marlin) it would behave the same in every row but since it only does it on 2 of 5 grid rows my assumtion would be that it is a hardware/wiring issue, i would suggest to deconstruct the wiring from the X-Axis/Bed Leveling thing and double check everything wiring-wise inside the drag chain like a detective.
maybe the insulation will be fine but the cable is broken at some place that causes the leveling sensor cable (maybe the same one that caused the issue from the previous post on my printer) to lose connection when the x-head moves to row 1 and 2 so that it could work again when you replace the wiring with fresh ones ? also if this is the case obviously you might want to redo the whole drag chain assembly ? anways good luck i hope i could help you a little

>>1914054
Got an idea how to reset the data through the Pronterface?

>>1914058
usually i just click on the reset button at the top after it has connected
when i wasnt careful and opened cura while pronterface was connected i have to reset the printer through the menu on the machine ("Initialize EEPROM" in the "Controls" Menu) all while the printer is not connected to the computer and with cura and pronterface closed. after that i can connect with pronterface and it will find it again so that i can control it with pronterface and do another reset, usually after this it works again without the various odd things it does after cura connected to it.

>>1914065
I mean the bed leveling data. I wish I could just send a command to reset the entire bed to some dummy value and level manually instead.

>>1913975
>i checked.

>>1914082
damn thing ate the rest of my post.

what hotend should i get to replace the TRASH SHIT stock CR10 V1 hotend of stripped threads? cheap ass clones on amazon are ok as long as its not a pile of dogshit like stock.

>>1914068
i always assumed that it does exactly that, reset the data including bed leveling stuff and z-offset to whatever is written onto the rom (probably zero).
have you opened your control box before ?
maybe your mainboard has a reset button ??

>>1914093
No clue, went ahead and zero'd all of the 20 something points on the bed and did a manual level.

>>1914010
One more thing, is that if the lifetime is per hour, and the mono screens cure at the very least twice as fast (3/4s vs 6-8, 2-3s seems standard on mono) you'll get double the prints out of it compared to regular lcd.

>>1914085
I got this for mine and love it.

>>1913967
Are these printers actually Open Source, at least to some extend? FDMs mostly have nozzles which can be produced by anyone, other parts are also often widely available. Primarily I'd like to know if I have to buy spare parts from the producer of the printer, or if I can use a variety of different suppliers?
Okay, this here answered it partially: >>1913997

>>1914013
>Printing your own enclosure
I hope you're smart enough not to print then whole thing but using parts you can get locally to make it better or cut down on costs. I think I'd like some windows and I also would use cement plates which are used as drywall. Everything that's not a window could get a heat shield, either some cheap and thin metal plate or only aluminum foil, maybe glued with some heat resistant silicone rubber. If some inner parts would be metal sheet, I would also consider to out in stone wool between inner and outer perimeter, to keep it well isolated. Windows might also have a sliding shield, so the would only be exposed as heatleak if necessary.
Building it that way might help you later if you want to get even higher temps inside for some materials. Keeping the electronics of the printer cool might then be the next hurdle.

>>1914108
The printers themselves aren't open source, but all the essential parts can be found online from other sellers, as the printer makers just put them together. I'm not sure what the deal is with firmware/drivers tho, but they sell the boards separate.

>>1914111

The firmware isn't opensource, there are some bits that have been reverse engineered, but not enough to make a full package. The original Photon is the most well documented - there are ways to generate .photon format files using PrusaSlicer, you can do stuff like edit the menu icons and enable the hidden Ethernet feature, but things like the FPGA code to drive the LCD are still a mystery. There's a full list of community projects and mods in the Photonsters github - https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs

>>1913535
>$80 for a nylon bag

>>1914103
why this over a volcano hotend?

Thinking of increasing my bed temperature from default 50. Would I only need to increase the temperature during the initial layer?

who /hemera/ here
I've been using mine for about a month now. It's pretty reliable so far. I do have some oozing issues when starting a new layer that I can't figure out but I'm pretty sure it's just the 0.8mm nozzle.

>>1912653
So the upper part has warped to FUCK. Is this fixable?

>>1914125
I plan to get something like that myself when I'll buy a second printer. Direct drive and big hotends both make the extruder heavier. I have that on my Arty Genius, and its fine, but it needs the printer to be build more rigid and that costs more. Might partially explain why the Genius cost 260€ vs 200€ or less for an Ender of the same size. Also it might slow down the maximum printing speed or decrease quality with high speed. The design shown on the other hand should be light and fast, though I would also put in a plated copper heatbreak from Mellow, which might improve heating/cooling. Also, there is a dual filament version of that kind of hotend, and this is what I really want in that case, so it's worth to have a second printer.

>>1912653
So the upper part has warped to FUCK. Is this fixable?

>>1914203
Maybe... hit it with a heat gun, try coaxing it back into position.

>>1914125
Simply because I'm too Jewish to want to buy/make an adapter to mount the volcano to a creality printer.

What kind of budget and specific parts list am I looking at for building a printer on my own from scratch?

>>1914231
did a rough calculation and i would say about 350$ / 330€
of course it depends on where you get your parts from and what you want to build
display ~30
mainboard ~30
power supply ~30
(depends on your construction/supplier) extrusion profiles ~60
5 stepper motors ~50
bed ~30
hotend/extruder comb. ~60
screws belts gears pulleys bearings fans springs switches etc. ~60

would be a pretty basic printer without heated bed, regular v-slot rollers bearings and so on
i just used prices out of my memory so it may vary depending on where you buy your parts what you want what you plan to build and so on. that said you dont need a display but its nice to haeve for example, otherwise you would want a heated bed which would cost you additional money, maybe you would want to have fancy bearings or other features ? you can dump a lot of money into this if you want
a basic printer has like 4 motors, a print bed, a frame consisting of some kind of contraption to move the axis, some kind of controller, some kind of power supply, some wires, printing head of course... pretty sure there are some lists somewhere like maybe in OP's link to https://reprap.org/wiki/ ?
i mean it could be worth looking at it... maybe

>>1914231
>>1914274
Just buy an Anet A8.
Comes with everything you need to make an i3 type printer including a heated bed for around a 100 bucks. And you'll have a printer available to make functional parts for your own customisations.

Plus 40 or so dollars for aluminium extrusion to build your own frame with.
Additional 20$ for timing belts, pulleys, etc to build your own CoreXY with it.

>>1914231
I built this one, but bigger with a wood frame
>https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction
About $350

motors 50+
smooth rods 60+
Electronics & display 40
hot end 15
printed parts from ebay 25
hardware 20+
belts & pulleys 10
bearings 15
power supply 25

All I can think of off hand. Had a detailed list before a hard drive failure.
Would have been cheaper to just buy one, but it was a good learning experience and it's nice to know that nothing could go wrong that I can't fix

A little warping and slight lifting on one corner but all in all not bad. 0.2mm layer height does not make for good parting lines that match up.

It's too bad I don't have the time to squirt some of my white goo in there today.

>>1914364
DIY orthopedics?

>>1914364

>>1914364
softfootbed?

>>1914285
are there any i3 clone like that have instruction for 20x20 extrusion?

>>1914274
>>1914279
>>1914285
I already have one, but I want to go through the process of building one by myself as cheaply as possible. I would be getting most of my parts from discarded electronics and other discarded items.

>>1914368
Nope
>>1914364
It is most definitely a dildo.

>>1914364
>It's too bad I don't have the time to squirt some of my white goo in there
>>1914414
Inverted dildo

>>1914411
Check out the "RepStraps": https://reprap.org/wiki/Category:RepStrap

Tons of different 3d printers built out of junk

>>1914364
>3d printing for probably hours what you could make with 2 scraps of wood and a chisel in 20 minutes.
ngmi

>>1914364
If you just need to fill in the difference between the print layers you can spray mold release on one half, then use epoxy putty on the other half and smash them together. Once the epoxy cures it will only have adhered to one side in a way that fills in any voids. You'll have to chisel off any excess that went into the mold cavity though.

Mods are asleep post fox kits

>>1914279
>>Anet A8
>>1914421
>>RepStrap
Another anon, thanks. I'll consider that when building something as described here:
>>1914108
>>1914202
So I won't need the aluminum extrusions, or buy small ones locally, and assemble some enclosure.
Wanted to buy som A8 a while ago, but delayed buying a printer and went then with one, which is easier and safer for a beginner.

>>1914459
Not the same anon: Looking at it I can see holes, so it's already more than one tool or you know a special trick, also sitting on the couch jerking of to anime while the printer does it's job vs actual work...

>>1914421
That looks like the place I need to sift through!
Any recommendations on which junk-assembled printer design?

Trying to install a E3D v6 into a Tevo Tornado, disassembled the stock hotsend, and now im just fucking confused. Every guide online just says to ping where an old wore plugs into, and plug the new one there

NIGGA THATS AN 8-PIN CONNECTOR

>>1914108
I'm doing this one, it seems to be very popular.
https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/
Costs way more than I thought though, 2kg petg + almost a m2 of 3mm PMMA. It's going good so far, I'm getting used to the 15h+ print times.

>>1914219
>>1914203

I had success using my desktop volcano vape as a rework station. It was a smaller part, but having two hands free definitely helped. I think that thing goes up to around 230° at the exhaust, but maybe a hairdryer is fine too.

>>1910389
Can you believe there are maniacs out there printing gun parts? Which kind of 3d printer would be most appropriate for committing such a heinous act
So that I can avoid getting one of course

>>1914646
give me a few hours and I'll post my newest atrocity.

>>1914223
I'll see if I can make a low effort adapter for mine whenever it arrives from China
>>1914202
I'm thinking the same but probably a SLA printer instead of a second fdm for detailed prints. I'm getting a mellow volcano with a copper plated 0.4mm and 1mm+1,2mm nozzle, a bmg-clone and a direct-drive adapter so all in all a heavy as fuck setup. I didn't do any research if a microswiss can push out just as much filament as a volcano, maybe that would've been the better upgrade path for my e3p. I'll see and report all the issues I'll run into

I got a Ender 3 pro and I have to do what should be the easiest thing to find: changing filament

However the options that they write and show here
https://www.instructables.com/id/Change-Filament-on-the-Creality-Ender-3-3D-Printer/

and
https://all3dp.com/2/easiest-way-to-change-filament-on-ender-3/

They are missing from my Printer.
The only mention of filament I see is:
Control->Filament-> E in mm3: off

I don't see anything about pushing in or out the filament.

>>1914688
you pull the filament out by hand
or you go to prepare-move axis-extruder and set it to -500mm or something, when wait forever until its pushed out

>>1914646
You should be wary of the laws regarding firearms where you live. A guy got arrested for printing a firearm in the UK. The ATF in the US aren't known for their leniency regarding homemade firearms.

>https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-49761290
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-49761290

>>1914696
The ATF really don't give a shit about making firearms (though some states do). What they do give a shit about is selling them afterwards.

New Thread
>>1914733

>>1913535
I wish I could get one for my meme tier Chiron.