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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1896442 No.1896442 [Reply] [Original]

Shun the imposter OP Edition
Old thread: >>1891415
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

>> No.1896508

>>1896442
>made the OP
noice

>> No.1896718

Hey guys I just got a 3D printer what the fuck do I do now?
should I just do a benchy or something?

>> No.1896742

>>1896718
Kick yourself in the ass for dropping $200+ on something wthout having any idea what you're going to do with it.

>> No.1896745
File: 9 KB, 182x276, Z.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896745

>>1896742
I didn't pay for it

>> No.1896747

>>1896745
Oh. Then yeah, benchy.

>> No.1896750

>>1896745
>>1896718
Sell it

>> No.1896753

>>1896718
>>1896745
Do short test prints until you get all the settings dialed in, then print a bunch of shit for your other hobbies.

>> No.1896756

>>1896753
It's already printing flawlessly out of the box
guess you get what you pay for
Gonna print my first real print in a few hours

>> No.1896758

>>1896756
What printer is it?

>> No.1896761

>>1896758
Prusa mini

>> No.1896769

>>1896761
Oh nice, Im jealous.
Got a free v1 Wanhao Mini the other day that prints TPU pretty good after I replaced the hotend but its a far cry from a Prusa.

>> No.1896938 [DELETED] 
File: 585 KB, 1364x2058, IMG_20200826_214732__01__01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896938

>> No.1896939

>>1896938
I hope you're not done because she looks incredibly derpy in the eyes

>> No.1896942
File: 411 KB, 1191x1418, IMG_20200827_005121__01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1896942

>>1896939
Is done, will work for bbeg

>> No.1896950

Anyone have a detailed human skeleton stl? I've never really looked before and I'm kinda blown away that I can't find one. You can find full animal skeletons with a trillion polys and details all the way down to minute fractures in the bone but all the human skeletons I'm finding are shit.

>> No.1896961

>>1896942
looks pretty good, put a little blush on those nips tho.

also

>tfw no dm

>> No.1896962

>>1896950
Skeletons are a fucking nightmare to print on any kind of printer

>> No.1896964

>>1896950
I've seen skulls, but no full skeletons

>> No.1896966

>>1896942
How big is that, and with what printer? I've tried doing small figures on mine but the rafting is a nightmare for something where the aesthetic is the whole point.

>> No.1896972

>>1896966
there are no rafts in resin printing

>> No.1896973

>>1896972
>resin
That's what I was expecting in asking for the printer. Wish I could justify going resin but the build size I need for other parts means I'll have to make do.

>> No.1897092

>>1896442
I know nothing about CAD. Where would I find 3d DXF templets for FreeCAD?

>> No.1897118

Ender 3 Pro.
Misaligned print midway.
Was doing fine, a person changed some settings because they wanted it to be faster now it does "stairs" or what you call it, it misalignes, I rechecked that it was balanced, I watched it go, at around 28 minutes of a print that is going great it starts shaking and I think that might moving too fast and is at that point that it goes wrong.

What might have been messed up?

>> No.1897152 [DELETED] 

>>1896718
why did you buy it?

>> No.1897153

>>1897118
kill this person

>> No.1897164
File: 338 KB, 3840x2160, Screenshot from 2020-08-27 13-12-18.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897164

>>1896442
I don't know if this is the right thread for this but can someone help me with FreeCAD?
My measurements automatically switch units from inches to yards or feet and I can't figure out how to stop it.

>> No.1897170

>>1897164
Go to Preferences -> General and under the Units tab, change the units to "Imperial decimal."

>> No.1897197

>>1896962
>>1896964
Found one if anyone else is interested. Every single individual bone. All in .obj files. http://lifesciencedb.jp/bp3d/?lng=en

>> No.1897200

>>1897197
No bones, just muscle, veins, and arteries?

>> No.1897201

>>1897200
nevermind, found the right dropdown.

>> No.1897202
File: 744 KB, 2560x1298, Untitled1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897202

>>1897200
Seems to have it all. Site is a little confusing though. I had to disable ublock and up in the top left I had to set data version to 4.3i. Then right below that it has the selections for bones, muscles, etc.

>> No.1897204

>>1897170
And now it's perfect. Thanks anon.

>> No.1897206

>>1897202
just a question, what are you doing with a full skeleton?

>> No.1897207

>>1897206
Just had some ideas for dioramas. I don't even want the full skeleton.

>> No.1897263

You just know he’s going to murder people and hide his victims ina pile of printed bones

>> No.1897274
File: 1.61 MB, 1080x2340, Screenshot_2020-08-27-15-21-42-821_com.miui.gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897274

This good? First print on my ender 3

>> No.1897288
File: 866 KB, 4000x3000, IMG_20200827_234906.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897288

>>1897274
Pretty acceptable. The ghosting can be fixed with TL smoothers and the little bumps can be hidden with seam configuration in most slicers. Also, check your belts are tight. I've only recently watched how much of a difference tight belts make. I printed a belt tightener to help tighten the X axis, which is the hardest one to tighten properly.

>> No.1897297
File: 2.09 MB, 3024x3024, 20200827_151446.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897297

What's this parts name? One that came with my HicTop was broken, and I need to order a new one. Thanks!

>> No.1897302

>>1897288
Are smoothers worth recommending in a world where $30 gets you a 32 bit board with trinamic drivers? There's some value in being frugal and staying full stock, but if you're gonna spend anything on upgrades, I don't see any value in bandaiding the stock drivers when you can get vastly better ones alongside a vastly better mainboard.

>> No.1897310

>>1897297
2-pin JST XH female connector

>> No.1897319

Anyone run a dehumidifier box for their filament?
I saw someone create one with one of theses since you can just plug it in to “recharge” it and he just shoved it in a plastic bin With his filament

How important is doing something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/

>> No.1897321

>>1897118
Decrease x, y velocity (may be called print speed) and or acceleration. Too high rate of motion can make this happen.

>> No.1897332

>>1897319
Some filament are quite sensitive to humidity. Some filament you can bake out in the oven. Never tried a dehumidifier

>> No.1897342

>>1897332
I really only have some micro center inland pla, not sure if I should make one but idk

Still new to this

>> No.1897347

>>1897288
Thanks pham

>> No.1897352

>>1897342
>micro center inland pla
i havent had any humidity problems with that or the pla+.
i do keep the rolls im not using in gallon size ziplock bags with the desiccant packs that came with the roll.

>> No.1897443

>>1897319
I just picked up a $5 tote from walmart and 2lb of delicate off amazon.

however my filament is years old and hasn't been stored properly, so idk what effects that's really having on my prints as i'm getting back into it.

>> No.1897454

Can thermistors go bad or fuck up?
Just got a new v6 clone in for a MP Mini, trying to run a pid tune on it and the temperature reading on the screen says 0 as a target and it gets to 135 and freezes there. Sticking some filament on the nozzle Im pretty sure its past that.

>> No.1897480

>>1897454
Well I fucked up.
I thought maybe the nozzle wasnt actually getting past 135 and trusted the thing to try a PID tune for a few minutes. Come back in to the smell of burning plastic and when I pull the PTFE tune out of the hotend its smoking slightly.

Give it to me straight, how long til I die?

>> No.1897501

>>1897332
>>1897342
PLA isn't that sensitive. nylon, petg, and polycarbonate are all hygroscopic. Which means that they suck up moisture from the air.

>> No.1897524

Hear me out: turn off after print
Put a z axis limit switch on the top, hooked up to an arduino that then starts a timer of about 20 minutes that lets the printer cool down then cuts the power off via relay - - Y/N?

>> No.1897535
File: 1.42 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_20200828_112749.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897535

Wet filament? It crackles slightly when printing so it must be wet, right? never had this bad stringing happen during the two years I've been printing with this thing lol

>> No.1897540

>>1897501
Thanks, I won’t worry about it too much then
I still might make something to hold the 8 or so spools that I have just for convenient sakes
>>1897352
Yeah I’ll probably just repurpose a tub I have and do something similar

>> No.1897552

>>1897535
Most likely. Try get a food dehydrator and see if it helps after 24h at 40 if it's PLA.

>> No.1897565 [DELETED] 

>>1896442
I'm having problems with bed adhesion onto a leveled, heated glass plate. Pic related it the face touching the bed.
I am printing PLA at 40 mm/s, 210 degrees C and the glass bed is heated to 65 degrees C, basically slightly slower and hotter than normal. The attempt pictured was the only one that would adhere: faster and cooler prints did not and all I got was spaghetti.

How should I fix this problem? I was printing fine just a few days before with those faster, cooler settings. There doesn't seem to be a jam since melted filament is still coming out, and an "atomic pull" showed no abnormal things attached to the filament, nor did it fix the subsequent attempt.

>> No.1897566
File: 559 KB, 1212x1680, bed_adhesion.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897566

>>1896442
I'm having problems with the first layer's bed adhesion onto a leveled, heated glass plate. Pic related it the face touching the bed.
I am printing PLA at 40 mm/s, 210 degrees C and the glass bed is heated to 65 degrees C, basically slightly slower and hotter than normal. The attempt pictured was the only one that would adhere: faster and cooler prints did not and all I got was spaghetti.

How should I fix this problem? I was printing fine just a few days before with those faster, cooler settings. There doesn't seem to be a jam since melted filament is still coming out, and an "atomic pull" showed no abnormal things attached to the filament, nor did it fix the subsequent attempt.

>> No.1897571

>>1897566
Glue stick or clean the bed with isopropyl.

>> No.1897585

>>1897164
>FreeCAD

There is your problemo ;^)

>> No.1897587

>>1897566
Most bed adhesion problems I've had were from incorrect nozzle height. When the nozzle is at the right height everything sticks for me.

>> No.1897618

>>1897585
What's wrong with FreeCAD?

>> No.1897620

>>1897302
Yeah you're right, I bought my TL smoothers before 32 bit board with silent drivers became common.

>> No.1897628
File: 143 KB, 509x758, dumbbox1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897628

Many /ohm/ sins were committed but here is a lithium battery pack I built recently. Needed something that could power awning lights for my RV without draining house batteries.

>> No.1897639

>>1897628
Cool desu! You live in the RV?

>> No.1897642

>>1897639
Not full time. I do contract work which frequently takes me out of state. Having the RV allows me to pocket more of my housing stipend.

This is so I can run lights outside for a few hours while boondocking during hunting season though. Bought the harbor freight 100 watt solar panel kit off a guy in an RV park for $40. Couldn't figure out what to do with it.

>> No.1897661

How do I make a retraction tower for printing at 0.12 layer heights? I don't get stringing at 0.2 but do when I go lower. Cura won't let me set retraction by height.

>> No.1897668
File: 1016 KB, 2220x1080, wavy abs..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1897668

Anyone know why this would be happening? It's globby and causes small ripples all over the first few layers. I thought it was overextension, and dropped extrusion by 10% and my extruder is calibrated. Didn't help. Dropped temp by 10°C. Didn't help. Releveled the bed. Didn't help.
It only happens on the first 3-5 layers and then the print is perfect. ABS on a .5mm nozzle.

>> No.1897952

Is there a "standard" or common food dehydrator that people use for filament? I want to try nylon and I don't want to use my oven.

>> No.1897956

>>1897668
There are usually special settings for bottom layers, there might be some extrusion multiplier there that is overriding your normal modifier.

I'm talking out my ass tbqh, but it's worth a look.

>> No.1897985

>>1897952
https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-make-a-filament-dryer/
There are a couple STLs available for the Westinghouse models in here to extend the walls for filament rolls. If you don't ever want to use it to dehydrate food, get whatever and cut the trays out so your filament fits. Just make sure it can reach whatever temperature you need for nylon.

>> No.1897991

>>1897164
>>1897618
The best help I can offer is to stop using FreeCAD. The UI is straight out of the 2000s and it's a clusterfuck, why not use Fusion instead?

>> No.1898007

>>1897991
I don't care about FOSS. I'll look for it at first but if I like or need non-FOSS then i'll gladly use it but I've always gone to alternativeto.net for software reccomendations and FreeCAD is just the most liked.
Autodesk Fusion doesn't seem to be popular there and I only started with CAD software a week ago, so I know nothing here.

>> No.1898017

>>1898007
Fusion's free up until you make 100k/yr off of it and it's supported by Autodesk (even if that support is shitty at times...) so there's at least a decently helpful community, if it makes a difference

>> No.1898055
File: 382 KB, 655x645, 1581126610531.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898055

>tfw I didn't check the preview and the printer is now printing one of the parts on top of the skirt.

>> No.1898061

>>1898055
Silly silly dumb dumb.

>> No.1898067

>>1898007
Fusion really sucks compared to the other Autodesk stuff, but it's still leagues better than all the FOSS CAD stuff. I keep a windows install just for it. If you're not doing stuff that's too intense, you can also use blender, by setting the unit scaling and then making sure to do all your rotations/extrusions with numpad. Lets you do some pretty CAD-like stuff pretty easily.

>> No.1898103

>>1898007
>Autodesk Fusion doesn't seem to be popular there
Fusion360 is a /g/entooman's worst nightmare in terms of privacy, but for a budding engineer it's great because it doesn't cost you any money and does 90% of what Solidworks and AutoCAD can do. Great for home gamers, too, especially people who just want a simple It Just Werks (TM) CAD program to make 3D-printable designs.

>> No.1898115

>>1898103
It's also bad for home gamers too. Autodesk has shit servers, so sometimes they reset them and poof some of your designs and data are gone. This happened at my last company and autodesk had a good lawsuit on them. Thankfully we switched to solidworks and had dedicated backup servers setup.

Was weird walking in one day and everyone was hysterical about their 2 year project just going poof.

Just remember to save that shit to your computer or else.

>> No.1898174

>>1898067
fusion is just as good as inventor
the only problem is that it doesn't have a free shape generator

>> No.1898179

>>1898067
>>1898103
I'm not even paranoid about privacy and I still gave up on trying to use fusion because of having to log in, connect to the internet, use the abstract "project" bullshit when I just want to load a file, do shit, and save a file. Like, sure, datamine my toaster handles and print in place dildos if you want, but let me just work normally without forcing me to adapt my entire workflow to your telemetry bullshit, and make the product absolutely centered on your telemetry as its primary fucking feature.

I'm mostly doing really simple stuff anyway so I've been getting by with openscad just fine. But as soon as the day comes when I need/want a real CAD program, I sure as fuck am not jumping through fusion's hoops. It's yohoho and whatever normal program is easiest to obtain.

>> No.1898219
File: 157 KB, 1200x1600, WhatsApp Image 2020-08-27 at 07.39.13.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898219

I'm looking to get a resin 3D printer for miniatures and such. I'm looking at Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k for $300 and looks like a great price for what I want it for. I avoided getting an non-mono LCD printer due to the apparent reliability issues, but these newer ones are supposed to be much better.

Any advice or other recommendations?

I sort of impulse bought a secondhand Moai 130 without doing sufficient research and regret it now due to how slow it is. The prints are turning out great, but it doesn't seem like they'd be any better than a 4k LCD printer.

Pic related, this solid bust took around 16 hours. An 8 x 2 x 1 cm gun took 3 hours.

>> No.1898222

>>1898219
>laser spot size: 0.07 mm
I don't use SLA but the buzzword resolution for most of them seems to be 0.05mm. Now, I'm not sure how the laser size actually translates to resolution, given that an LCD's resolution gives a minimum grid, while a laser can in theory move freely and the 0.07 size would just be the limit for the smallest discrete detail thickness (or basically minimum corner radius).
But generally yeah for miniatures SLA is absolutely good enough.
As I said I don't know much about it but elegoo seems to be the meme right now. Somebody else can give you actual advice.

>> No.1898225

>>1898219
Sonic mini is probably the cheapest 4K mono you'll find.

>> No.1898239

>>1898179
>having to log in
It does so by default
>connect to the internet
When aren't you (if you're doing CAD)?
>use the abstract "project" bullshit when I just want to load a file, do shit, and save a file.
Projects are just a different name for folders, and you have subfolders and files. If you can't wrap your head around that concept most CAD is going to be difficult for you. At least Fusion allows you to cooperate, SW does not.

>> No.1898247

>>1898239
>It does so by default
I mean, you have to create the account and everything. Maybe after you set it up it automatically logs you in, which doesn't change the fact that you have to do it in the first place.
>When aren't you (if you're doing CAD)?
Generally, I am, but I don't want my software to depend on it. Sometimes internet cuts out, sometimes it's just slow.
>Projects are just a different name for folders
I'll admit I last tried to use it some months ago so I may be misremembering something, or maybe I misunderstood it. But from what I remember, projects are specifically a name for CLOUD folders. I don't want to create a shitty folder on some server, I want to have my files nicely locally organised in my preferred folder structure, where I can manipulate them however I want, move them around on a USB stick if I want, have them be backed up by my normal backups, etc.
Now I'm sure there's probably some way to achieve that, if I were to go digging around. But they try their absolute best to shove in your face their whole cloud thing which I just really don't want to deal with.
>At least Fusion allows you to cooperate
It doesn't "allow" you to cooperate, it FORCES you to cooperate. It feels like using google docs as your only text editor. Except google docs is clearly just a website in the browser integrated with all the other google shit so it's normal for its documents to just get stored in your google cloud. But Fusion is something you install on your PC as a "normal" program, which I'd therefore want to use like a "normal" program, but then it turns out it has the functionality of google docs. Might as well fucking make it an online CAD editor then, fucking why the fuck not at this point?

>> No.1898249

>>1898222

I see what you're saying about the laser spot size, but then it'd overcure sections. I'm not sure how it works in practice.

The Moai is good enough for what I want. It's just incredibly slow and cost the same as several budget DLP printers would've.

>>1898225

Yeah, I came to that conclusion too. Price isn't everything though, and there's no reviews of the 4k out yet, but people seem happy with the standard Sonic Mini.

>> No.1898313

Tell me why I should be using a 32 bit board?

>> No.1898331

>>1898313
it has 4 times as many bits as a 8 bit board

>> No.1898385

>>1898331
But it only has half the bits of a 64 bit board.........

>> No.1898412

>>1898385
yea but it's a lot cheaper than any 64 bit boards

actually this does make me thing why the fuck can't you just use like a raspberry pi and, I dunno, expand the gpio or something
or why can't some chinks make a raspberry pi but with expanded gpio and places to stick drivers onto

>> No.1898424

>>1898412
because expanded GPIO isn't direct access to the BCM's GPIO.

>> No.1898429

>>1898313
For the full color graphics display you'd use to select your program.

>>1898412
you can but it'd be overkill and expensive.

You'd get some smoother and faster performance with a faster processor but when you're making alot of anything, you're looking at "good enough" components rather than the engineering mentality of overkill and saying "that should be good enough".

at some point it'll turning more into a linuxCNC machine where it's a dedicated computer, but there, they worry more about direct access with minimal latency which is why they still use parallel port pins and direct PCI cards rather than plugging shit in over USB.
yeah that they said >>1898424

tldr; sure, go for it in a new machine or if you burn up your 8bit board but it's probably not worth swapping out a perfectly good board for a bigger number.

>> No.1898432

>>1898429
>rock64: from $25
>SKR1.3/1.4: $30
Doesn't sound that expensive.
By "expanded GPIO" I mean in the board itself. Unless the chips that SBCs use are naturally limited in GPIO, and the chips that control boards use are specifically made with large GPIO capabilities? In which case it makes sense, you have a special purpose board that can directly control lots of outputs, and then if you use e.g. klipper, you attach a similar priced board which has less I/O but much more processing power, and you have them communicate over serial, with the processing board (the SBC) handling the kinematics etc., and the control board translating the SBC's commands into direct input for the components of the printer.
That or I'm just retarded.

>> No.1898499
File: 404 KB, 837x1784, cooling fan.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898499

My stepper motors have been getting pretty hot and will probably be worse when I add an enclosure. Are these sort of cooling fans memes?

>> No.1898503

>>1898499
I would try adjusting their current or maybe upgrading the drivers all together.
I wouldn't worry too much about heat unless they start skipping steps. They can tolerate getting a bit toasty.

>> No.1898504
File: 578 KB, 647x568, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898504

>>1898499
I used pic related and it worked pretty well for me. Stepper went from being "uncomfortably warm" to "cool to the touch" after long prints. Doesn't help as much in my enclosure since the air's hotter, but I imagine it does still help

>> No.1898505

>>1898503
>They can tolerate getting a bit toasty
They can, but filament can't. I put one on mine because the stepper shaft was getting so hot it was starting to melt the PLA that touched the gear.

>> No.1898550
File: 536 KB, 1366x716, Test.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898550

This warping at the part is due to warping yes? And how can I remove the seam? Not a big problem if the seam is there I plan to use acetone and smooth out and prime and paint.

>> No.1898575

Warning: Upgrade to Cura 4.7 seems to delete start codes in your printer profiles. Make sure to save them. Might have been fixed by now.

>> No.1898590

>>1898550
>This warping at the part is due to warping yes?
Hmm yes it would appear so

>> No.1898605

Guys where the fuck do I find a crack for 3D software?
Everything looks like a virus

>> No.1898609

>>1898590
I know, I know, it's redundant, it's redundant. I only want to know the setting on Cura, or its equivalent, that determines how easy the piece is to remove from the raft. Thank you and God Bless.

>> No.1898640

>>1898605
piratebay, or just use fusion360

>> No.1898658

>>1898605
use free shit, dumbass

>> No.1898674

>>1896718
Print shit for your other hobbies, find household uses. This is a CNC machine, I'm sure you can think of some uses.

Personally, my first projects have been cosplay props, shit to organize board games, etc.

Eventually, I'd like to try printing a toy gun or a lock with only compliant mechanisms.

>>1897332
Don't bother with an oven. Get a food dehydrator and some PrintDry vacuum tubs, it works excellently.

>>1898550
Warping can occur due to poor adhesion and overheating your bed, if you're working in PLA. It looks like you're using a raft and that's adhering to the bed fine, so I'd recommend decreasing the separation distance between your raft and your print.

>>1898605
Just use fusion 360, Inventor is less user friendly anyway.

>> No.1898704

>>1898174
I had both on my computer for a while and fusion always started to slog on anything with more than a few complex features, while inventor always ran super smooth.

>> No.1898711

>>1896442
I have a cheap beater chinese hot end. It works really well as long as you can keep the heatsink cold. I have been spraying some electronics freeze spray on it for bigger prints and they come out great, but if I leave it to it's own devices with the fan it will melt the stuff too far up and get stuck. I put a fan from a blade power supply for a server on it, shit pushes a TON of air, but now it pushes too much and my hot end can't reach temp. Anyone have any ideas? Should I just print a plastic dish that goes in one of the flanges to block the airflow to the actual heated part so it doesn't get cooled? Or is there a way to make the PID more aggressive on the heater?

>> No.1898730

>>1898674
>Inventor is less user friendly anyway
I just wish Fusion had a normal file structure and constraints

God, I wish Fusion had constraints

>> No.1898765

>>1898674
>>1898730
I know how to use inventor. Is fusion360 really that different and a pain the ass the use?
I'd like to have a FOSS solution for CAD and some of my CNC CAM stuff but haven't found a good workflow for stuff yet.

>> No.1898766

>>1897480
Late, but you'll just get a bad headache.

NEVER power anything if a thermistor shows any non-sane or jumpy values. That is how you burn your house down.

>> No.1898767

>>1898765
I had the student license for the full autodesk suite and time after time i would go back to inventor after using fusion360. I miss it now that my license expired, if you can get a copy of inventor, it's way better

>> No.1898768

>>1898711
Run the fan off a lower voltage.

>> No.1898769

>>1898768
I tried, but it cuts out at about 10V and won't spin at all.

>> No.1898772

>>1898765
I learned F360 first (by myself) then started using Inventor for work; I swap between them pretty easily. If you use hotkeys there's a few that will trip you up but it's pretty similar for the most part. Fusion limits some of the tools (e.g. no hollow lofts) but it's still pretty good. I know a few guys who've used it to build things from zero to physical machine (and then use it for CAM) so there's that at least.

>> No.1898827

>>1898730
But it does.

>> No.1898829

>>1898827
I'm referring here specifically to assembly constraints/mates, which Fusion doesn't have - it has joints instead, which can be really finicky sometimes. Inventor has both, though.

>> No.1898843
File: 1.43 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20200830_110006.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898843

Progress report:
Artillery Genius, Sunlu Silk PLA, printing speed 1/3 of the standard in Slic3r and Prusa Slicer, playing with extrusion multiplier, wall thickness, temps. second last on the right (down) was printed with lower temp than suggested: 195C. The last with a bit more but less extrusion.

>> No.1898845

>>1898843
>sunlu
Found your problem.
Crappy nozzles can also be a factor.

>> No.1898851

>>1898845
Trying another filament from China right now. It works better, but has similar issues, just not as strong. I might switch the nozzle soon. It's still the cheap one which came with the printer. Real difference seems to be the printing temp, which I hate, because my printer is fast. Wonder if I should have bought copper plated nozzles, bc Volcano hotend, only have brass and hardened steel. We'll see.
If the other filament is so much better, I might also try to put the Silk into the oven at 50C for some hours, if it's 60C by accident it still not to high, for all I know.

>> No.1898854

>>1898851
Oh, volcano hotend will cause this. Larger path for filament to melt, more molten mass weighing down even with no pressure applied.

>> No.1898859
File: 2.76 MB, 1920x1080, MOV_0208.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898859

It's habbenin boiz

>> No.1898863

>>1898859
Holy fuck good job man, that looks sick.
Don't forget to get an actual pcb made for it.
Are you planning on releasing a build log/guide?

>> No.1898865

>>1898863
Cheers my dude :D

Yea will be making a custom PCB to control all electronics, this is just a prototype to make sure it's all functional

Also yuppo, plan to release it all once complete, and am keeping a log of progress here:
https://www.antalife.com/2020/05/project-half-life-2-ar2-update-4.html

>> No.1898866

>>1898865
Good luck man, it looks fucking incredible.

>> No.1898869

>>1898859
Once it's done if you live in the US and want some free clout maybe try even gifting one to Valve. You might get an invite for a private visit etc.

>> No.1898881

>>1898854
So? Less heat? Minimum which is recommended, might be more reliable delivering these temps than a hotter print with small hotend anyways? Problem with that theory: I don't see many others with Volcano having the same issues.

>> No.1898952

>>1898859
Why does this look so familiar? What's it from?

>> No.1898961

>>1898952
zoomer

>> No.1898998
File: 3.05 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20200830_184047.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1898998

>>1898843
Printing insanely slow seems to be key in this business. I thought I'll get a fast printer, now I have to print at 10-25% speed... But at least and last, it works somewhat. Will try a better nozzle and print a fan duct for better layer cooling as soon as I have my PETG.

>> No.1899019

>>1898961
I just can't remember you fuckwit. Probably because I'm older than you and whatever game it was from I played it longer ago than you.

>> No.1899028

>>1898952
It's the AR2 from Half Life 2

>> No.1899056

Probably off topic. But how do i find a reputable 3d print service to reproduce a concrete mold for me?

>> No.1899120

>>1898859
a winner is you

>> No.1899146

>>1898219
Wait until the Elegoo Mars Pro 2, real talk.

>> No.1899193

Is an anycubic photon any good guys? I've never done 3d printing but I'm willing to put work in

>> No.1899197

>>1899193
Photon's a solid machine, I have no complaints. No idea about the S model, though

>> No.1899213

>>1898843
>>1898845
>>1898851
Watch out for Chinesium Filament. I had some rolls tested by a factory and they had an effective tolerance of +-0.08 lmao (they all claimed 0.02)

>> No.1899222
File: 162 KB, 522x399, 1323732745559.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899222

>>1898859
holy shit that's cool

>> No.1899244

>>1899197
what's different between photon and photon zero

>> No.1899246

Hey guys how paranoid do I need to be about fumes?

>> No.1899247

>>1896442
should I buy a 3d printer if I don't have any hobbies whatsoever and just want to find a hobby to not be sad all the time? I'm not a crafter or a maker at all I'm a total dumbass. I'll probably be one of those retards who thinks he can make money off this because I'm a bugman

>> No.1899255

>>1899247
How much disposable income you got? I see a few options:
1. Get a chinky printer for $200 and make it a hobby to tune it and improve it (and possibly spend like $100 or so over time getting extra parts and upgrades for it and shit)
2. Get something like a prusa mini to avoid the majority of issues and tinkering required, and just print stuff with minimal effort, I dunno find articulated turtle automatons and baby yodas and moon lamps on thingiverse/reddit/whatever to print
3. Find a different hobby like electronics, which is cheaper, teaches you actual skills, and is much easier to get repeatable results in, and if you start building electronic contraptions hey maybe you'll then decide to get a 3D printer to make stuff to put your electronics into

>> No.1899265

>>1899255
i saw a guy buzzing about anycubic photon but he gave up once he realized 3d printing is more intensive than he thought. that's the only printer I know. it seems good

I'm way too much of a brainlet for electronics to be honest

>> No.1899278

>>1899247
I found printing other peoples models to be a novelty that gets old pretty quick.
Learn to model first If you like that, then get a printer.

There are some that like printing minatures and painting them though, I don't think they make their own models.

>> No.1899279

>>1899244
Don't mix up the S and Zero. Zero's cheaper and has a crappier screen, it's only really for people who REALLY want to cut costs - the photon's cheap enough as is. The S adds a second linear rail (largely unneeded) and swaps the metal housing for a plastic one (I'm not a fan of this), plus I think something about an additional diffusing lens to distribute the light, but unsure.

>> No.1899286

>>1898504
>>1898499
https://youtu.be/it1Fh2LxAaM

>> No.1899306

>>1899278
That's a good point, >>1899247 could get into something like warhammer for real cheap using a resin printer. Create entire armies at the cost of literally just the raw resin (not much except for the giant units), and your time to find the model files + print + wash/cure. Then you paint it just like you would an official figure.
Or any other kind of tabletop miniature.
If you're find with talking to people and live in a location where shit like game stores exist, it could be a nice start to a new hobby. Or, for instance, find a D&D group and become the guy who can always supply miniatures for everyone's setting, provided models exist.

>> No.1899313

>>1898859
I remember that project, good job.

>> No.1899314

>>1899019
Ok, boomer.

>> No.1899318

How does creality's LD002R compare tot he Elegoo mars? Far I can tell its just a knockoff design. But so is the ender that everyone loves.

>> No.1899353

Bring a print in place fidget cube over to my cousins house this weekend, everyone now wants one (6hrs each and like 5 people want one plus about a few more want other things)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790624

Whelp at least they all liked it
I will say the thing is oddly satisfying to fidget with

>> No.1899421

>>1897524
I had toyed with the idea of using a couple supercaps and a diode for the heat sink fan to ensure that it stays on a little longer than the rest. Idk how viable it is.

>> No.1899457

>>1899353
>Bring a glow in the dark PLA dildo over to my cousins house this weekend, everyone now wants one (6hrs each and like 5 people want one plus about a few more want other things)
>Whelp at least they all liked it
>I will say the thing is oddly satisfying to fidget with

>> No.1899509

>>1899246
Not really if you're printing PLA in a reasonably ventilated room. Bad ventilation is bad, period, even without 3D-printing, and ABS smells noxious.

>> No.1899563
File: 2.28 MB, 3753x2628, IMG_20200831_075514.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899563

>>1899278
When I bought my printer, the endgame was to learn Blender and make my own miniatures.
I've been doing a video course I got from a humble bundle, and I can already make some basic printable stuff. I made this for my nephew last night. Its a little too big to stick on his backpack but this prototype would be nice on his wall or bedroom door. Can easily adapt it into a keychain. This is at 0.2 mind. A proper print I'd use 0.1 or better yet the Photon I got coming.
This is only after like two weeks of 4 1 hour sessions I've been doing during my holiday. I went off the course to google how to make text and wrap it around objects but it still wasn't too hard to learn the trick to it.
3D printing I feel is worth to learn so you can learn other things from it. Its like a launchpad you can use to develop other skills. You get a physical feedback from it, like a treat or reward for that hard work.

>> No.1899569

>>1899265
The photon is a pretty messy printer. You kind of need a workstation for it. Its because you're handling a resin liquid and the items need a post-print treatment.
A filament-based printer you can just set up in a room and fire it up whenever. I can heartily recommend the Anycubic Mega S because it is very easy to put together and once calibrated properly its a real workhorse. The quality is alright too though they aren't as nice as a resin printer. The layering is more prominent.

>> No.1899611
File: 595 KB, 4000x3000, IMG_20200831_171452.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899611

first print in a long time... why do they even make these bottles you can't turn upsidedown?

>> No.1899625

>>1897566
I have a Creality CR-10 with a glass bed and my best solution is to use wide masking tape on the build platform. I do print almost all of my prints with rafts as to avoid dedormation in the first few layers though so the tape residue gets sanded off. People talk about using gluesticks and hair spray. A friend of mine uses hair spray to great success but it does mot work for me. I have not teied glue sticks.

>> No.1899631

>>1899611
>posts upside down bottle

>> No.1899637

>>1896756
>I didn't pay for it
>guess you get what you pay for
Why the fuck are you lying? Print a couple dildos so you can go fuck yourself

>> No.1899646

>>1898859
Yo that's really fucking cool and all but why the children's museum color scheme?

>> No.1899654

>>1899278
>Learn to model first If you like that, then get a printer.
I wasted a year on this idea. Only started to be motivated to learn that stuff after I had my printer. He first needs to know if he's more like me or like you.

>> No.1899665

If I want to upload a CAD file to the internet is it really possible to trace it back to the parametric modeling software license and user?

>> No.1899669

>>1899255
Get a shitty printer, figure out how to make it print decently, then use it to print a good printer. Hopefully by the time you get that figured out you'll have found a less frustrating hobby.

>> No.1899671

>>1899654
This. Some people need to already have a machine to find reasons to use it after printing a bunch of random things to get a grasp on how the 3D printer works.
Because its then like, I have this cool thing I got but I don't want it to be something you use and then bury forever or only get out on a random occasion to impress someone. I'm already invested into it and it can solve problems. If I can just make X I don't have to buy it.
Plus 3D printing isn't a massively expensive hobby as long as you don't go all out Warhammer 40k autism with it. I'm not knocking the hobby, but the money the average long-term player puts into it makes even TCG collectors blush.

>> No.1899687

>>1899665
From my experience it is for catia-data (and probably every other DAS-software).

>> No.1899698

>>1899687
So if I export it outside of it's native file type that license data will be lost? I ask this because I have come across .stl files with tesselation data that are slightly different than what I need and it is very frustrating that I can't modify it. I want to upload files and give the downloader the ability to easily modify them. I don't want to paint a target on my back as to open up a can of worms regarding license issues. Would providing a STEP and STL eliminate that data while allowing the downloader the ability to easily modify the file through import tolls?

>> No.1899702
File: 65 KB, 720x477, 1598896553241.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899702

Pic related, its the listing. Looking to get into 3d printing. Guy is selling used Ender 3 pro on facebook, claims only has 10hr usage and talked him down to $250. Is this a good deal with all his extra shit on there? I'd have him demo it first before sealing the deal

>> No.1899706

>>1899702
It is buying someone's project. You don't really know if they did it right and if you need to troubleshoot or service it would be harder. If you have neen but l building printers for a while it's not a bad deal. I would not recommend someone new to the hobby goes out and buys someones project printer just like I wouldn't recommend someone buys someone's project car for their daily driver.

>> No.1899709

>>1899706
>If you have been building printers for a while

>> No.1899746
File: 762 KB, 1080x2280, Screenshot_20200831-211103.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899746

>>1899702
>down to $250
you can get a e3p with silent board+glassbed for $250 new from banggood, even for 230 if you use the $20 new customer coupon. I got a metal extruder+tubing for 10bucks from amazon.
>>1899698
from what I know DAS can backtrack any of their files for the sake of protection against industry espionage and copyright protection. I don't know if one could ever fully get rid of it

>> No.1899791

>>1899746
>you can get a e3p with silent board+glassbed for $250 new from banggood, even for 230 if you use the $20 new customer coupon. I got a metal extruder+tubing for 10bucks from amazon.
so not worth it? What would be a good price then to get it at? Rather not go through banggood, probably would take long but I don't know.

>> No.1899798

>>1899746
>from what I know DAS can backtrack any of their files for the sake of protection against industry espionage and copyright protection. I don't know if one could ever fully get rid of it

From all the files out there in the world I assume they don't even bother trying to track down and shake people down for "improper use of license" i.e. making money off of .edu editions and using corporate licenses personally for financial gain.

>> No.1899827

Instead of asking people in forums or imageboards, try this: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>> No.1899853
File: 96 KB, 720x605, 1598909402674.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899853

I talked him down to $250 atleast, maybw $200. Is it a good deal? First timer, but I'm very tech savvy and not scared to tinker if need be.

>> No.1899856

>>1899646
This one is a prototype to make sure all pieces fit and move like designed. Will be reprinting the final one with black/blue PETG

>> No.1899868

>>1899853
I built one of those myself, and I paid a whole lot more than $250. Go for it.

>> No.1899871

>>1899868
Work pretty well? Worth it?

>> No.1899873

>>1899853
This the right screenshot? $200-250 for an evo sounds like a great deal. Last I checked just the vitamins will cost more than $250, then factor in the time and effort and filament to print all the parts, and the effort to assemble and configure it (sure it may need tinkering and tuning - but unless it's completely out of whack, it must already have had a decent amount of effort put in to get it working at all).

>> No.1899875

>>1899873
Yes it's the right one. I talked him down to $250. So I should pull the trigger? It looks alright especially since he was selling for $500 originally

>> No.1899882

>>1899871
Best printer I've owned. Very solid.
I built mine with German bearings and such from a good source, real E3D. His is probably china stuff. Even then it's easily worth $250.

>>1899873
This anon is correct, I paid probably close to 1k in just parts.

>>1899875
Pull the trigger!

>> No.1899888

>>1899882
>This anon is correct, I paid probably close to 1k in just parts.
That's what I thought, I just didn't have a good figure to quote since I only looked at building one in passing.
For $250 it's probably a great deal even if it was put together like junk. Just harvesting the hardware and rebuilding it from scratch yourself would probably still make it worth it. Provided you already have a printer that can make the printed components, of course.

>> No.1899963
File: 1.84 MB, 498x280, Happy Horse.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1899963

>>1899563
Good job, anon. For better contrast, you might want to consider doing a filament change to a darker color at a certain layer - there's tools to automatically put it in the GCode wherever you want.

Have fun learning, long (but rewarding) road ahead.

>> No.1900004

Anyone ever had a thermistor be a bitch and a half?
Ive got this old I3 mini that wouldnt heat past 180 or so without freezing. Figured out it was the heater cartridge causing the issue, hotend was getting cooled too much and couldnt get to temp which caused an error and the whole thing froze until power cycled. If the effort to find that out I broke part of the hotend and bough a new V6 clone that I got the other day.
Got the new clone all set up and the thermistor will not read past 135 degrees, even though the temperature keeps going up. Thought the thermistor was bad so I replaced it and the new one is doing the same thing. Currently trying to flash Marlin 2.0 on it so I can edit senor settings but its taking 3.5 years to compile in IDE.

In the meantime does anyone have any other ideas why the thermistor would only read up to ~135 or so even though the hotend was getting well passed that?

>> No.1900038
File: 1.05 MB, 1398x1080, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900038

Soo this happened for the first time


What went wrong?

>> No.1900045

>>1900038
Material?

>> No.1900046

>>1900045
PLA

>> No.1900049

>>1900038
Can't see anything. Bad lighting, take another picture in full light with another angle

>> No.1900055
File: 260 KB, 683x246, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900055

>>1900049
Hope this is ok

>> No.1900068
File: 400 KB, 863x4051, dogan31.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900068

I made a new version of my instrument, called The Dogan. A 3 stringed instrument. Now with frets.

>> No.1900069

>>1898765
F360 is a pretty darn similar workflow to inventor, but missing a few features and a couple added.

Personally, I prefer f360 to some extent due to the timeline, but I also like inventor more because it has assemblies.

>> No.1900080

>>1900038
>>1900055
Warpage like a mofo. Use a brim, and stop filleting the parts of the print that contact the buildplate.

>> No.1900087

>>1899798
>making money using corporate license
yes they dont care for that except your company asks them for specifics like leaked data. I had a coworker who worked with airbus before, he filled me in about how good they are in backtracking files to its origin.
>making money off of edu licenses
that one I don't know, for cracked versions I know that they are pretty strict, we already had a case of DAS legal department calling our department over files we got from China and apparently they used cracked versions over there.
that behaviour is the only reason why I try to get used to f360, don't want to receive a letter with a 5-digit bill attached

>> No.1900114
File: 3.73 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20200831_100836.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900114

>produced some magic smoke with part cooling fan
>new fans arrive today
>wanted to detach electronics and have the printer in an enclosure
>fail to design a good looking case for that
>list of things I want to print gets longer every day
back to the drawingboard, need to sketch out some ideas
>>1899563
on the first look I though that was a different spelling for "reality". did you use ironing for the top layer?

>> No.1900134
File: 23 KB, 287x636, 20200901_023428.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900134

>>1900068
I've added an additional fretboard so now it has 18 frets total instead of only 10.

>> No.1900169

>>1899611
incredible
fighting the sauce jew, anon... that's the spirit !

>> No.1900175

>>1897668
had a similiar issue
turned out you have to hit the fine spot between extrusion amount and nozzle movement speed
all in all in my case i stepped up the nozzle movement from 50 to 75 mm/s and that did the trick mostly later i fine tuned the retraction and the distortion effect or whatever you may call it disappeared

>> No.1900179

>>1897566
gluestick is a good thing i use some eco friendly water solliuble ones
but what i suspect here is the z-offset try babystepping until you have the correct nozzle distance so the material gets squished a little (not too much)
calibration of the machine is the key
it moves and likely can change the initial settings mechanically after every print
so i suggest print with a brim and as the printer starts you observe and tune z-babystepping on the fly while it starts to print after priming the nozzle
pincer is handy to remove spaghetti on the fly , just grab it and move it away while you keep adjusting z-distance through babystepping settings until you get a nice adhesion for the brim/first layer
from then on everything should work according to your slicer settings ( layer height etc)

>> No.1900208
File: 594 KB, 4032x3024, M3_bolt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900208

>>1899569
>>1899265

It is messy, but the quality is so good, i'm very glad i got mine. It's amazing that you can get this level of precision for less than 200$ these days, and i guess that's part of the issue - like with the raspberry pi, people get them on a whim without any plan on what to actually use them for. If you get it with a specific use case in mind like for example printing fine-pitched gears, you would be ok spending the effort involved with handling the hazardous substances safely.

>> No.1900216

When I print a calibration Cube every axis comes to less than.1 mm oversized of the intended size. When I try to print a part that needs to have a specific size hole it's always .5mm undersized no matter what it was supposed to be, one is supposed to be 5mm and ends up 4.5 and the other 2.5 but ends up 2, so it's not a ratio is an absolute number for some weird reason. this is no matter what orientation or axis I lay the part across. also if I import the unedited stls straight from the zip into fusion and measure the Holes they are indeed the correct intended sizes. what the shit is happening here?

>> No.1900226

>>1897297
If that is from your thermistor, don't fuck around. Get a new one,

>> No.1900240

>>1899646
probably just using what he had and doesn't really matter since it'll need painted anyway.

>>1900216
In prusaslicer, I adjusted "xy size compensate" all the way to -0.29 to get my parts to come out on size (Outside too big and holes too small). In cura it may be called something like thermal compensate or something.
But this setting basically grows or shrinks the part into itself.

>> No.1900252

I want to try printing petg on my e3p. I see that the recommended bed temperature is 80 to 90 C, but the Curie point of the magnetic mat is apparently around 80 C. I really like the mat and don't want to remove or destroy it, so is it possible to print at a lower temperature, say 70 or 75, and still have a chance of good adhesion due to the surface or am I pretty much screwed?

>> No.1900257

>>1900252
I had flawless results on 75C bed temp using DAS Filament petg, its worth a try

>> No.1900282

>>1900208
Anyone doing SLA using a flexible bed like the one from Wham Bam? And what about the alternative to alcohol mentioned there? https://youtu.be/TgPxE5gUjlo

>> No.1900293

I need a good stringing test for doing adjustments. Most of them in thingiverse are straight cubes or towers which don't show it off very well. Am I best off making my own?

I had a stringing problem and was told to try a better fan set up. So I installed a fang style guard and now it maybe even worse. I have a set of four retraction cubes printing right now with default settings but that's a 40 minute print and doesn't show it off as well as I would like.

>> No.1900297

help /3dpg/. my zortrax m200 is starting to layer shift. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the axes sticking. What's the best lubricant to wipe down those rails? Teflon? Silicon? Help

>> No.1900304

>>1900282

I don't think it's that necessary, the guy in the video is embellishing the problem to make the product look more attractive. I've seen people gouge the surface violently with the spatula, when all you need to do is wedge a sharp thin blade into a corner and gently lift it to peel off the bottom layer like you would a sticker. Once a corner gets going, the rest just pops off at one point.

Getting a print off isn't messy either because you're supposed to wash and dry the plate with the print on it before you attempt to remove it. It's nice that you can just "pop it off" but you still need to wash both the springy sheet and the buildplate after that so.. it's the same deal.

The argument that "you can use less supports!" is empty too, because unlike with FDM, for SLA supports are a good thing. The first few layers are always overexposed on purpose to ensure plate adhesion, and if those layers are part of the actual print you're going to lose accuracy there. Any holes and gaps will get filled in. Since printing is upside down, you're trying to prevent the part from "falling upwards" as you see it in the slicer preview, not so much to "prop up an overhang from falling down" like in FDM.

>> No.1900317
File: 114 KB, 492x1024, Griffon Unilube.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900317

>>1900297
Wipe it down with a degreaser like brake cleaner, mineral spirits, etc. Then lube it up with a very light oil, like sewing machine oil. My go to is pic related.

>> No.1900338

>Start printing inland pla from hatchbox
>horrible adhesion until 220c
>hatchbox prints very nicely at 205c
Strange, must be some difference in filler material or something.

>> No.1900347

Am I a fucking idiot or what..
>Finish building my Ender 3 Pro
>finish leveling it
>try and print a line
>PETG filament doesn't stick to bed
>read that you need to up the temperature
>up the temperature but the config doesn't persist
Can anyone help?
How do you make a configuration persist?

>> No.1900349

>>1900347
I have a similar problem.
I preheat the bed and nozzle to what I want, and then when the print starts, the temperature goes down to something I didn't chose

>> No.1900350

>>1900347
>>1900349
You set the temp in the slicer not the machine.

Start with PLA not PETG, it's friendlier.

>> No.1900352
File: 43 KB, 900x806, 9-color-3d-printer-flexible-filament-8kg-roll-tpu-pla-filament-flexible-transparent-flexible-filament-1-75mm-3d-printer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900352

I ordered some 60D TPU filament and I ahould be getting it in today. Any tips for printing it on an Ender 3? I have a CR-10. I was hoping to use it to print some recoil pads and dragon dildos.

>> No.1900353

>>1900347
What >>1900350 said, but before you print with PETG, coat the bed is a release agent like hairspray or you're never getting the buggers off.

>> No.1900354

>>1900080
This worked, I also leveled my bed again and reduced from 60 to 50 degrees my bed temperature. Thanks.

>> No.1900355

>>1900352
>I was hoping to use it to print some recoil pads and dragon dildos.
DO NOT 3D-PRINT SEX TOYS

Any kind of bacteria will get into the layers and that is just asking for all kinds of hideous infections. Secondly, your sphincter is a surprisingly strong muscle and with a combination of bad design and poor execution you may and up with 3D-printed pieces up your behind.

DO NOT 3D-PRINT SEX TOYS

>> No.1900356

>>1900354
More surface area means more stickage factor, and lower bed temperature means smaller temperature difference and therefore less warpage. Great to know it worked!

>> No.1900357

>>1900355
Do you have a single piece of evidence to back that up?

>> No.1900359

>>1900357
firsthand experience

>> No.1900360

>>1900350
I see. So I just installed cuda. I'd assume I'd have to chose/create the material and then assign it to the print?
In other words the information will be in the file, makes sense.
>>1900353
I'll have to buy some then, don't have any.

>> No.1900363

>>1900355
First thing I thought of too was the dildo breaking.

>> No.1900373

>>1900355
>>1900357
I guess i'm too early to assume porous objects just as ANYTHING 3D PRINTED is bad for food and butt stuff should be common knowledge.

but it is perfectly acceptable to use the 3D print to mold and cast an exact duplicate in silicone.
Some have used PLA the same way as they use wax and melt it out of the mold.

>> No.1900384

>>1900357
I have done research into the bacteria spread into 3D-printed PLA, for bone implants. The idea was to use the rough pores of printed layers as anchor points for new growing bone to latch onto while the PLA (or some other material) slowly dissolves. Results were great, bacteria didn't just crawl in between layer but actually through them into the infill because commercial 3D-printed objects only appear solid, they are far from coherently attached on when you look at them through a microscope. So yes, bacteria will have a field day.

Let's say the smallest diameter of your buttplug, right at the sphincter, is 5mm, or about 20 square mm. In ideal conditions, TPU has a tensile strength of something like 20MPa, or 20N/mm2, so that should be 400Newtons (roughly 40kg), right? The human sphincter can produce about 7kg of pull on a 20mm ball, so on, say, a 40mm ball that'd be about 25kg. Do you really trust a 1.6x safety factor on something that's going up your ass? There's very little margin for error there, especially in terms of a badly adhering layer, and then it's off to the emergency ward with you.
With the combination of bacteria and possible breakage you should NEVER use FDM 3D-printed components for sex toys. Print the molds, fill them with silicone, have at it.

>> No.1900405

>>1900384
>Do you really trust a 1.6x safety factor on something that's going up your ass?
Who says it is going up my ass? Maybe I am trying to weaponize it so I can sneak up behind and enemy, ram a horse cock up their ass an then break it off at half mast depth so their ass sucks it back in and they become incapacitated.

>> No.1900410
File: 17 KB, 384x288, black guys computer reaction.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900410

>>1900384
>The human sphincter can produce about 7kg of pull on a 20mm ball

No. You cannot just say things like this without source.

I DEMAND to know where the fuck you got this information.

>> No.1900411

>>1900410
I just pulled it out of my ass to be honest.

>> No.1900413

>>1900411
With 7kg of force?

>> No.1900415

Why is 3d printing full of so many retards and perverts? I'm starting to taint my perspective on it as a hobby. Wanting to print sex toys or weird cartoon women topless is all over the place. I'm starting to second guess if I want to help people with issues because they are probably printing lolicon bestiality or some shit.

>> No.1900417
File: 1.47 MB, 4032x3024, image-20200830_185250.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900417

>>1900114
Not sure what you mean, but the text is part of the mesh. Its all one straight solid print. In blender you can make text wrap around an object and curve with a geometric shape and a lattice and some modifiers.
So I made the 3D text, attached the lattice to its back physically, and then with modifiers, attach the text to the lattice and the lattice to the shape. The shape is then made invisible and then I simply saved it as another copy (so I can always change the text or modify the body), and then with my second copy of the file I merged the base shape and text together as a single mesh.
What's neat is that in blender, if you shift select the layers you want, you can save it as an stl with only those layers, and you can also tick the modifiers box so it saves with its modifiers in place too.
Then its as simple as printing any other stl file.
This also means if you have a 3D modelled scene and you wanted to export one model to print physically you absolutely can by selecting it and exporting that selection only.

>> No.1900418

>>1900410
I can distinctly remember reading somewhere about a Scandinavian research group checking the correlation between sphincter strength and (in-)continence. They used a standardised 20mm ball, started pulling at some predefined rated, and healthy (continent) people produced 7kg. Anything under 5kg meant the person was incontinent, something like a 99% correlation.
Can't be arsed to find it, do your own research. And yes, pun intended.

>> No.1900440

>>1900415
Vocal minority, most people are makers/engineers/engineering students that like making stuff for the house and mixing their prints with circuits and actuators and the rest are mostly nerds who want to print pikachus and clothe hangers.

>> No.1900444

>>1900413
7.1 to overcome it

>> No.1900450

Wtf is going on.

Trying to level my ender 3 and one corner will not let the paper under it..every other corner I can level fine but this one i can screw until it's loose and it won't budget.

Was fine this morning.

>> No.1900453

>>1900355
Regarding the material, would vacuum-sealing + surface-sealing + wrapping it in a condom help?
Regarding the shape, maybe a dildo instead of a plug could work

>> No.1900472

>>1900415
>lolicon bestiality
you have my attention

>> No.1900486

>>1900472
>tfw into more loli sluts that have secks with multiple guys.
>tamagoro is my go to, benantoka is a close second

also, I'm having issues with stringing between surfaces. Any there anything besides retraction distance I can use to prevent this?

>> No.1900515
File: 620 KB, 2772x2436, asdfasdfsdf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900515

Why was the bubbling so severe on the bottom of the hole? There was tiny bubbles when I used primer. I mixed abs with acetone to use as a putty, did I not wait long enough? Started priming as soon as it felt dry but I live in humid climate.

I know it looks rough but it's a test piece. Never painted and finished anything.

>> No.1900530

>>1900450
>but this one i can screw until it's loose and it won't budget
turn it the other way chief

>> No.1900543

>>1900530
You turn it right to go up and left to go down. If the nozzle is too close to the bed you have to keep going left.. I did but the nozzles still touching. So either the bed isn't going down on the screw or at that one corner the extruder is being pulled down.

>> No.1900605

>>1900384
>>1900410
>>1900411
This is one of the funniest things I've seen on this site ever

>> No.1900623

>Want to 3d print bowsette because I'm a dumb coomer.
>Every site wants like 5 bux.
Should I keep looking to see if someone has a free upload somewhere or am I better off just being a stupid paypig and giving them my cash for it.

>> No.1900624

>>1900515
acetone will make paint bubble if it's not fully dry. It was probably off gassing vapors.

>> No.1900634

>>1900440
>Sex toys
>3D anime porn figurines
>most people are makers/engineers/engineering students that like making that type of stuff for the house and mixing their prints with circuits and actuators and the rest are mostly nerds who want to print pikachus and clothe hangers.

>> No.1900636

>>1900352
>>1900357
Oh look, we got another one. I feel like at this point we should put a disclaimer in the OP or something

>> No.1900638

I don't want to derail the current topic, but does anyone have experience with Da Vinci printers and their chip dumb assery? Is there a simple way to get around it so you can use filament or ink from a different manufacturer?

>> No.1900640

>>1900415
>Wanting to print sex toys
Fine by me, go apeshit as long as you're safe about it
>weird cartoon women topless
I draw the line here

>>1900634
This, sort of. If you're an engineer with a 3D printer, you use it to engineer 3D printed parts. If you're a regular jagoff with a 3D printer, you print whatever's popular, and tits are (regrettably) never not popular, and then you complain that 3D printers are useless because you never found a reason to use it except to churn out useless plastic shit.

>> No.1900641

>>1900636
Maybe, instead of promoting dildo abstinence, we should pin a lengthy guide to safe dildo production in the OP? They are going to do it anyway

>> No.1900643

>>1900641
I'm not going to be the one to write it up but I have hot tips to contribute, if it comes to that

Somewhat ironically, I don't have any firsthand experience with the stuff, it's just good practices and all that to know how/what to do since it has a lot in common with... well. Regular manufacturing.

>> No.1900644

>>1900643
I occasionally have girls ask me to make those for them.
We could have a group effort to put together the document.
We could also link to the most popular furry or nude cartoon women models or whatever is popular among that group. Why fight it?

>> No.1900646

>>1900640
Figmas are expensive my dude. We're all just poorfags who can't drop 300 dollars on a miku statue

>> No.1900649
File: 91 KB, 391x285, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900649

>>1900644
>asked to make those
Interesting. The enviability of those aside, any useful info? I'd imagine they're not into plain translucent white, and I've been interested in coloring my silicone casts as well but don't know what's body-safe, for when the occasion arises and I need to make one for an SO. If it ever happens.

>> No.1900653

>>1900649
In my experience there are two main types.
Some of them want it to be flesh colored and as realistic looking as possible.
Some of them want a plain white/black/pink dildo that is more of a ridged tube than a realistic dildo.
Almost universal disgust to the dragon dildo etc types

>> No.1900656
File: 911 KB, 1914x1317, 3pbnri.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900656

>>1900641
Then let them break them off in their asses.

>> No.1900658

>>1900653
>Almost universal disgust to the dragon dildo etc types
I mean if you are serious when asking them about it. If not, they usually just think it is a strange joke and laugh.

>> No.1900668
File: 901 KB, 760x596, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900668

>>1900653
>as realistic-looking as possible
>simple ridged tube
boring.
>universal disgust to the dragon dildos
Damn, the third category is where the REAL fun begins, though.

>> No.1900684

Could anyone recommend a brand or model of rubber feet for my prints? I want to print stuff that doesn't slide all over my desk

>> No.1900698

>>1900668

I think the girls would really like the dragon dildo with wings if they tried it.

If any of us get a gf or waifu, the first time we have sex with them, do them from behind, but sneakily stop and insert the dragon dildo midway through. We need to know. For DIY science.

>> No.1900707
File: 1.10 MB, 960x640, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900707

>>1900698
>sneakily
Fuck that, first chance I get I'm introducing my GF to all the things I'm able to make and letting her request whatever she wants. If I can't make it, I'll learn how

>> No.1900747

Have any anons tried the Crane Quad 3D printer for their semi-nude cartoon waifu prints?

>> No.1900767
File: 1016 KB, 3024x4032, received_816962918829473.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900767

>>1900668
So I made this accessory rail mount accessory for a gag gift. Seems relevant. I call it the biological oriface monopod attachment.

>> No.1900809

>>1900698
i'll ask my gf what she thinks of dragon dildos, for science

>> No.1900832
File: 536 KB, 1063x1417, IMG_20200902_090232.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900832

>>1896442
why is this happenening and why does haye me?

I DONT EVEN TOUCH MYSELF AT NIGHT (much)

>> No.1900835
File: 303 KB, 1215x911, IMG_20200902_090312.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900835

>>1900832
cr10 V1.

I need to do that bootloaders shit bad. mirror is so based though.

>> No.1900865

>>1900832
>>1900835
your nozzle isn't tight against the throat. Disassemble your hotend, clear the gunk off. Screw your nozzle all the way in, back it out half a turn. Screw the throat in until it is snig against the throat and reassemble your hotend. heat the hotend 20°C above your expected print temps and finish tightening the nozzle.

>> No.1900882

>be me not you
>bought an ender 3 and 1kg of garden variety white pla
>USD380~730 after taxes depending on the exchange rate because i live in a mexican shithole country
>before 50% taxes, it would be USD190~370
>>bonus points if you guess which you guess my shithole mexican country
>arriving this fridayish
How deep was I fucked?
What should I do to start?
What could I print besides the legendary 3DBenchy?
>print-in-place engine for testing clearances, deliberate small orifices, and other torture tests
>> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774
>compliant dial
>> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4524389
Any upgrades I could/should print myself straight away?

>> No.1900885

>>1900882
>not buying from Amazon so they take care of the whole import process

You fell for the China meme carnal

>> No.1900887

>>1900885
>buying from Amazon
I wish I could, anon. Doing thatin my shithole means playing dice with the customs house, and she weighted them in her favour.

>> No.1900905

>>1900882
When I lived in a Latin American shithole, I would request the chink sellers to open the item and then declare it as "Used ____". Greatly reduced import inspections and fees. Some chinks required me to pay a few extra shekels for " special processing ".

>> No.1900907

>>1900905
>I would request the chink sellers to open the item and then declare it as "Used ____". Greatly reduced import inspections and fees.
Noted!

>> No.1900916

>>1900882
First do a calibration cube to determine if your esteps are correct. Then do a combo heat & retraction tower to find the temperature with the best appearance, layer adhesion, and with the least stringing. That should be good enough. Look for excessive stringing, poor lsyer adhesion, poor spidering and avoid those temperatures. I think you did okay for price depending on the size of the bed.

>> No.1900919

>>1900916
Thanks! Where could I get good models for that? Although I have been lurking the scene since the early years, I'm just now starting to get my hands dirty.

>> No.1900925

>>1900919
I found some on thingiverse you can just sort by calibration prints and best all time/year.

>> No.1900931

>>1900925
Nice, thanks. Any you have personally used and recommend?

>> No.1900935

>>1900882
>>1900919
Anywhere you pay 50% taxes on anything as a non millionaire individual is ramming your balls deep

I would say the must-have upgrades are a spool arm that uses bearings, a filament guide for the side of the machine down to the extruder and another one to straighten it out before it goes into the extruder, again with ball bearings if you please. Not strictly necessary but it it minimizes friction and spinny things are always a good way to spice it up, plus the filament won't wear into the part and itll last way longer. On the flip side you could do a side mount spool holder and do away with the guides but the bearing spool arm is still a must imo. The front drawer is also useful for holding nozzles and all the tools that come with, and if you want a spatula holder that goes on an extrusion or the power supply or whatever. Another one I found useful were detent holders for the bed adjustment, it locks onto the divots in the knobs to help lock them in place so the knobs can't walk off and you can't accidentally fuck up the alignment. Once I put those on I literally never had to level my bed again. Oh and who could forget knobs for the Z screw and the extruder to make manipulating them easier. That's about all for the essential printable mods Imo, 4 Hardware mods and SKR mini E3 2.0 is fan-fucking-tastic and the silent steppers make it worth the price 100% on top of the features and customisation options. I'm also happy with my bltouch though it was kind of a pain in the ass to get the offsets dialed in now I almost never have first layer problems or other alignment issues from having a misaligned or misshapen bed. That's about it, other than for some cheap spiral cable holder to clean everything up and keep it from getting caught on itself while it's running (I like Spiral vs split conduit because you don't have to tape or zip tie it closed).

>> No.1900937

>>1900935
>taxes
Do I know. I'm planning on bailing out as soon as I can.

>tips
Noice, saving them. Thanks!

>> No.1900964
File: 93 KB, 281x476, fuck nozzle.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900964

I have spent the last 24 hours straight learning fusion 360 and I can keep going but I feel my mind shutting down

I got $600 to design and print this piece of shit
gonna ask for another thousand

fuck yeah

>> No.1900992
File: 1.46 MB, 3024x4032, 3ECB9D11-CB84-4BFE-B33C-915FA2CF7CEB.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1900992

Legally how the fuck do people get away with selling shit like the guy who makes copies of the old Kenner toys and sells the model files on sites like my mini factory

Pic not related

>> No.1901027
File: 126 KB, 1599x878, Capture (2).png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901027

>>1900964
Have you considered openScad?
Parametric is great for prototyping, and you don't have to make a pact with "analytics" demons

>> No.1901032

>>1900964
you had to do like a revolving path to cut those threads into that shape yourself didn't you?
atleast that's what I had to do in inventor. it's good to keep a machinist handbook around for thread dimensions, tolerances and other stuff.

>> No.1901035

>>1900916
>calibration cube
I don't understand why people use a 20mm cube to calibrate steps.
There's going to be measuring errors and shrinkage. Over 200mm the errors increase 10 fold.
I just measure the carrage travel with calipers using the largest travel practical (my calipers go to 150mm)

>> No.1901062
File: 22 KB, 614x795, valve.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901062

>>1900964
>$600
>gonna ask for another thousand

Goddamn, i'm a freelance modeller and i've modelled way worse in Blender for far less than that amount... Now i feel cheated.

>> No.1901066

>>1900964
Thats literally 1 hours in any decent CAD system.

>> No.1901067

>>1901062
where do you find freelance work as 3D modelers?

>> No.1901069

>>1900964
Dude, you NEVER ask for more money after the job is done. That's how you get a bad reputation. You quote that upfront.

t. former business owner

>> No.1901113

>>1901035
this.
your stepper steps and belt or screw drive will be a fixed value you can calculate. the only error should be belt flex and backlash.
The machine should move the exact about it's told by the gcode and that's it. any error in printed object dimensions (such as plastic thermal expansion) should be compensated by the slicer much like cutter comp on cnc machines.

>> No.1901129

>>1901067

There are companies that hire freelancers to work alongside their normal staff for large projects that require many custom models. Gamedev companies are always in need of assets too.

Otherwise you can do more generic stuff and post them on Turbosquid, but that's to get revenue on the side instead of a serious thing unless you vigorously compete with heaps of other modellers making the same sort of shovelware generic stuff. I've also seen artists that post their sculpts on myminifactory - the 3d printed miniatures crowd can't get enough of those, but i dont have much of a zbrush cowboy experience yet to try that.

>> No.1901149

>>1900964
How do you get into freelancing? What are the chances I get sued by my company for freelancing on the side using their CAD license.

>> No.1901152

>>1900964
How the fuck did you convince some retard to pay you any amount of money when you dont even know CAD.

>> No.1901154

>>1901066
Thats literally 1 hour in Fusion, he's just a retard

>> No.1901155

>>1901149
Check with HR what their policies are. No one can answer that question without knowing what your companies' policies are.

>> No.1901157

>>1901149
Moonlighting, using tools they paid a license for?
You are going to get fucked

>> No.1901160

>>1901149
Open your own consultant firm in which people come to you with ideas and then you make it for them in cad, Do FEA, 3d print the model, make adjustments, and then make a metal prototype. I used to provide everything for my clients, but the money just isn't worth the amount of work and bitching that the customer does.

Upside is that you can potentially make 100k in a month, but you may not see anymore work for several months.

>> No.1901170
File: 457 KB, 600x450, 1304376955947.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901170

>>1901157
>hes not intentionally sabatoging his designs during the day while making improved designs after hours for their competitors using the company's own license
NGMI

>> No.1901185

>>1900887
You aren't in Mexico then.

>> No.1901188

>>1900767
Nice craftsmanship anon. What filament did you use? Did you generate the mesh from scratch by yourself?

>> No.1901202

>>1900767
Perfect. Make it out of woodfill and stain/varnish it for a nice sleek look.

>> No.1901205

>>1901032
Not him but Coil is a thing in both Inventor and Fusion, I use those for all my thread needs. Fusion also has a third-party thread tool but needs some fiddling sometimes

>> No.1901213

why is thingiverse such a joke? it seems like every 2 or 3 weeks the site is broken for no good reason.

>> No.1901216

>>1901213
Blame Stratasys. Their machines are barely better, except maybe the very new ones

>> No.1901232

What is the best CAD program for dildo making?

>> No.1901236

>>1900937
>I'm planning on bailing out as soon as I can
But not to the United States. Country is full.

>> No.1901252

>>1901232
N/A, Blender is the best for it, and is not a CAD program

>> No.1901258

>>1901252
In what way is Blender not a CAD program? CAD literally is "computer aided design"

>> No.1901265

>>1901258
Technically you're right, but pretty much nobody refers to Blender, Maya, 3DS, etc. as CAD programs; CAD is generally accepted to be things like Inventor, Fusion, Catia, Solidworks, and such.

I get what you're saying but you're only going to be met with confusion if you say Blender is a CAD program most places

>> No.1901283

>>1901265
But....but...but CADildo has such a nice sound to it

>> No.1901286

Is there a setting or way to reduce the raft in Cura? The raft has a distance from the model of over 4 millimeters

>> No.1901288

>>1901258
CAD is generally thought of in engineering terms
Blender is more geared toward the artist

>> No.1901296

>>1901258
CAD typically means a constraint solver. Blender actually has very recently added this, i believe.
It's like calling a word processor CAD. ok, it fits the acronym, but no one using a word processor calls it CAD and no one saying "CAD" means a word processor.
It's convention.

>> No.1901297

Has anyone here tried to build their own full color printer?

>> No.1901300

>>1901297
>full color
No, nobody here is probably even capable of making a polyjet printer.

>> No.1901304

>>1901297
You mean with ink?
2D?
Why would they bother?

>> No.1901306

>>1901286
There are further settings than what you can see by default, explore the app deeper it's not hard to find

>> No.1901309

>>1901306
I know, I'm asking which setting messes with the raft stick out around the model

>> No.1901321

>>1901300
>>1901304
The cheaper full color 3D printers are essentially a normal 3d printer combined with a normal inkjet printer that prints the ink on each layer of the porous plastic.

Should be possible to do a self-build

>> No.1901326

>>1901300
>No, nobody here is probably even capable of making a polyjet printer.

Challenge accepted

>> No.1901369
File: 3.07 MB, 480x640, wonder.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901369

>>1901066
>>1901154

>> No.1901421
File: 1.12 MB, 2316x2664, 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901421

For those of you considering getting the BigTreeTech smart filament sensor, don't. The build quality is excellent, but the detection method is very poorly designed. It's a contact switch, but it works by squeezing the filament through 2 heavy metal rollers, one spring loaded.

>> No.1901424
File: 1.16 MB, 2808x2760, 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901424

>>1901421
The rollers are likely to introduce breaks in themselves, but even if you lightened the spring, the top roller pushes the filament down far enough that it will miss the hole to go through to the other side.

Save your money and get one of those cheaper "clicker" switch sensors since at least they will allow the filament to go through,

>> No.1901442

>>1901421
seems ok, the cheap $2 ones just use the same switches as limit switches so it makes it worse for retractions, I modified one to use a limit switch with a roller on the end but it's loud af

>> No.1901445

>>1901442
How is it "OK" if it doesn't even work?

>> No.1901449

>>1901445
It just is, Anon. You wouldn't understand.

>> No.1901469

>>1901445
user error, just cut the filament at an angle

>> No.1901477

I got a few questions about Formlabs Durable Resin.

-Has anyone here tried using it?
-If I make moving parts with it, won't the parts create resin dust when they move up against each other? (like interlocking gears, or arm joints/limbs of an action figure)?
-How well does it take to sanding and painting?

>> No.1901497

>>1901027
openSCAD is a meme, don't use it for any real work.

>> No.1901516
File: 271 KB, 1920x1920, Z stop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901516

>>1901497
>real work
lol
This is a hobby board

>> No.1901517

>>1901516
Then why bother with obnoxious software that won't allow you to enjoy a hobby?

>> No.1901520
File: 37 KB, 901x679, Ind hold.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901520

>>1901517
>obnoxious software
WTF is that?
Maybe you're too GUI dependant.
You have to think a problem through to solve it.
You also have to go through the unpleasent task of documenting and deciding numbers.
openScad design skips the middleman, and your line of thought is documented for future reference.
You know that feel - "why did I do things that way?, or what was I thinking?"
With openScad, it's all there, documented and easily edited.
Hobbiest dream

>> No.1901523

>>1901477
I know you mentioned specifically Durable, but Clear and Grey Pro do create some dust when they rub, but they sand and take paint excellently. It's worth ordering a sample from their site, you get a piece in your hands and it's free delivery.

>> No.1901574
File: 1020 KB, 1055x2059, 20200903_212250.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1901574

>>1901062
Don't chase bottom dollar, sell your services and skills for what you believe you're worth.

>>1901067
Post on local facebook groups about your services and have a good website

>>1901069
"Yeah he's the first few prototypes boss, gonna need some more cash to polish it off if that's what you're after."

>> No.1901582

>>1901574
>gonna need some more cash to polish it off
Anon was right. As a business ya need credibility.
Eat a loss before sacrificing that
Unless yer doing gov work...

>> No.1901587

>>1901582
Nah mate the client is stoked. Otherwise they need this milled out of aluminium for 10 grand

>> No.1901594

New Thread
>>1901593

>> No.1901604

>>1901574
Hey, some questions for a nozzle designer...
Why the radius on the otherwise flat end?
Why the tapered hole?
Why does the hole intersect the flat taper? I've seen this before but have no idea why

>> No.1901629

>>1900623
You are precisely the target audience for people making coomer models and charging for it.
Stop watching porn. Or pay up goy, and keep funding the coomer industry.

>> No.1901819

>>1901236
I do have a hook there but I'm not big on _needing_ to be armed 24/7. I'd rather go somewhere where I _can_ bear arms but don't need to use them.

>> No.1901821

Is it possible to connect a V6 nozzle to a Volcano hotend with some adaptor? Is is a bad idea to do so?

>> No.1901939

>>1901574
Dude, you better not give that to the customer. That looks like hammered shit. Also, you don't make one in metal or do any kind of testing for the customer?

>> No.1901955

>>1900415
>Why is 3d printing full of so many retards and perverts?
You are on a freedom leaning platform, while Reddit wouldn't tolerate such stuff. So they're here.
>>I'm starting to taint my perspective on it as a hobby.
People are using it to build prostheses. Look for Tilly Bionic Girl, maybe that will lift your spirit.
>> sex toys or weird cartoon women topless ... printing lolicon bestiality or some shit
Harms nobody. Keeps people of the streets and still learning stuff.

>> No.1901961

>>1900450
How is your Z-axis sensor doing?

>> No.1902110

>>1901188
protopasta copperfill for filament.I did not generate the original anatomical mesh. I did make the rail mount however and modify the mesh so they would attach effectively.