/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1882778
Good as a shed or garage. That is about it. They exist for two reasons: they are fast to assemble and they are cheap. The cheap portion was because there were so many available as surplus after WWII. They have not been made in years so you only ever can find used one. Newer designs are better but much more expensive.

>>1882824
>so you only ever can find used one
>newer is much more expensive
I think there could be some call for corrugated metal sheets bent to a certain radius to allow people to cheaply build their own shed. Problem is the corrugated metal isn't very thick anymore. You would not want to walk on it.

>>1882843
Quonset Huts were not just made out of sheet metal. They need a foundation and a frame to support the sheet metal. The sheet metal was fairly standard 22 gauge and it is still readily available. It is the frame that costs money.

Frameless steel building kits are rightly popular and easy to erect. I like my Steelmaster and since I anti-seized the bolts I only had to cut off three when I tore it down to move. They're available from a variety of makers and even integrate with shipping containers though mine are separate (two 40' HCs welded together and a single "one trip" HC all with power and light).
If you're serious you will study the subject thoroughly. The building makers supply prints for permit approval.
I bolted my base channels to steel beams I bartered for so I didn't need a traditional foundation for my first install. Railroad ties also work. After I moved I used the same beams plus two more.welded so I had a 20x20 square then later poured my slab inside that. (I collect all the heavy steel I can score free or cheap, and with scrap prices in the toilet now is a good time to hunt.)
I weld and fab and like both containers and frameless buildings, and if I cash out my other house I'll combine them with small one of these: https://www.steelmasterusa.com/commercial-buildings/shipping-container-covers-roofs/

If you want a quick cuckshed that needs no foundation just buy a container (AFTER studying the grades, "one trip" preferred but at least "cargo ready". "WWT" (wind and water tight) are not cargo ready but they're cheap and if you don't need good door gaskets and enjoy derusting and painting you can get them at the lowest cost which varies by region.

If you prefer a round roof Quonset/Nissen hut style Steelmaster and friends sell those as well as (superior because more room) "trussless straight wall" whose vertical sides permit more usable space.

You can buy a used Steelmaster style building and blow it apart with an impact but use an impact capable of shearing the 5/16" bolts if they stick (I'm probably the only person to anti-seize their hardware unless someone read my other posts in various fora) with a six-point socket. You can erect one with two people.

>>1882843
>I think there could be some call for corrugated metal sheets bent to a certain radius to allow people to cheaply build their own shed. Problem is the corrugated metal isn't very thick anymore. You would not want to walk on it.

Culvert steel is galvanized and sufficiently thick, but the Steelmaster style easily supports a person. I crawled all over mine erecting it. There are MANY ways to make any shed you like even if it's not produced as a kit, but by the time the fuckery is over it's unlikely to be worth it and all the low-hanging fruit is long fucking gone.

Anons will hate me pointing this out but sheds existed for many thousands of years so you're wildly unlikely to invent anything new. You can opportunistically repurpose stuff you score cheap tho. I've cut the back off box trucks, removed the bodies from box trucks (containers are vastly better but I did the trucks for my bros since I have portable gear to make short work of it), and torched the axles and landing gear off dry van bodies to place them on the ground. If you want something pretty, expect to pay for it.

Industry and the military do everything better than everyone else so I copy success.

>>1882778
Looks comfy. Just throw some moss over the top so it looks like you live in the irish countryside rather than an abandoned storm drain.

>>1882778
I have one my family uses as a horse barn.
Good if you need a ton of space but I don't expect the Quonset Hut to hold up quite as well as my Barn will over the years. I do like how snow seems to roll off of it quite easy though.

>>1883140
>anti-seized the bolts
Aluminum or copper based anti-seize?

>>1882778
Quonset huts can have great security if you don’t install windows in the sides.

>>1882778
Not bury-able / 10
Go with a seacan

>>1882778
My mom has a Rovero greenhouse from the early 90s in this shape, do you think it would be reasonable to turn it into a living space, a garage or simply a storage unit?

>>1883140
>since I anti-seized the bolts I only had to cut off three when I tore it down to move.
>I'm probably the only person to anti-seize their hardware unless someone read my other posts in various fora

Thanks for all the detailed information. What anti-seize compound(s) do you use/ recommend?

>>1882778


They are cheap and very durable. I live near a military base and there are old quonset huts that are still being used from the WWII era (even ones that have been abandoned are still structurally sound)

My sister and her husband bought a few acres of land super cheap outside of the city limits, and built a house out of half of one (also super cheap)... the other half is dedicated to their business. You can make them as long as you want.

>>1884238
Did it involve re-locating and re-erection; or was already on plot?

>>1883824
>>anti-seized the bolts
>Aluminum or copper based anti-seize?
I thought that these formulations are specifically intended for high temparature and dry use say on engine studs or break assemblys. Less so on cold and wet? Experience welcome.

>>1884247
OP * brake

>>1884241
It was all new construction.

>>1883824
I used the cheap Permatex from the auto store as it was handy at the time, but copper bearing anti-seize is superior. I use that on engines, particularly exhaust hardware. Even with the cheap aluminum shit I've taken apart assemblies I put together over 20 years ago with good results.

>>1884247
They exclude moisture from the threaded joint which can accumulate during heat cycles and is the reason for rusted fastener joints. Copper-bearing anti-seize is a staple of the marine industry where salt water and extreme humidity is normal. Loctite also excludes moisture.
Unless there is a specific reason to do so I never assemble a dry thread. For very small and electrical fasteners I use dielectric grease instead of anti-seize as it's clear, non-conductive, not messy, and good for protecting a lot more than electrical equipment. The large tube of Permatex is available at most auto stores. I also lube my relay tangs, vehicle plug and socket connections (makes them much easier to take apart without breakage when they get old and brittle), terminal block screw threads etc.

>>1884534
>Unless there is a specific reason to do so I never assemble a dry thread. For very small and electrical fasteners I use dielectric grease instead of anti-seize as it's clear, non-conductive, not messy, and good for protecting a lot more than electrical equipment. The large tube of Permatex is available at most auto stores. I also lube my relay tangs, vehicle plug and socket connections (makes them much easier to take apart without breakage when they get old and brittle), terminal block screw threads etc.

Congratulations. Your policy for protection of fastners and contact pins is top notch. Sterling advice.

Copper-loaded grease has always seemed to me to be entirely counter-intuitive as to be wrong. It feels gritty furthermore; copper is a dissimilar metal so in the vicinity of iron/ steel should generate vicious corrosion by galvanic action. In the case of hot parts perhaps the grease or oil evaporates off with time and you are left the copper. When it comes to disassembly application of a strong torque to the fastener will cause the copper grains to simply shear appart seeing as copper or Al is much softer than the base metal. Still find it perplexing.

Loctite; gasket compunds or dielectric type greases for cold and wet I follow.

>>1883132
The whole purpose of steel Nissen Huts of the sort shown in the OP photograph is that the roof can be entirely self-supporting. Provided the corrugated sections are of adequate guage steel no frame is needed making erection fast. In the repect of being self-supporting the Nissen Hut roof is the WWII forerunner of the later concept self-supporting geodesic domes.

I have seen large ones here in the UK built entirely of Eternite sections no frame which have stood the test of time used for commercial garages.

Frame seems overkill. Perhaps the framed version were designed for extreme storm wind resistance or in post WWII military use blast overpressure.

>>1882778

>>1882778

I'd love to have one. In the spring and fall when you don't need heat or AC I could live in one happily.

>>1884622
Note that in this example the corrugations run lenghtwise so as not to require pre-formbending.

>>1884617
These look well maintained. If the galvanized coating erodes appropriate weatherproof paint seems to do the job.

Black bitchuminous paint was widely for the purpose of protecting Nissen Huts or corrugated iron panels used in the UK. UK doesn't generally get too much sun and the bitchuminous coating was in supply as a byproduct of gasworks.

>>1884612
>I'd love to have one. In the spring and fall when you don't need heat or AC I could live in one happily.
Note to poster: Small modular pre-fabricated corrugated sections are sold for the construction of animal shelters. Useful for applications such as a rapidly deployed shelter or for protection of stuff stored outdoors. Unlike tents or tarps those are long lasting and withstand wind superbly.

>>1884831
I wonder how it is attached to the frame? I don't like the idea of putting screw holes in metal that isn't overlapped by another sheet.

>>1884831
looks like someone living inside the zone in STALKER