/diy/ - Do It Yourself

REEEEE PUT ME IN THE OP

>>1848004
I bought a E3Pro, am I gonna be able to make cool stuff now?

>>1848031
Sauce on the oni?

Printed the finials for this bird feeder pole and it came out pretty well. I'm curious to see how the primer and paint on the PLA hold up outside

Is there any indication to when the Saturn becomes publicly available? Ever since I learned it existed I don't even want to waste the resin I have now.

>>1848119
keep us posted. I can only find anecdotal evidence of PLA holding up with UV exposure online and have plenty rolls of it and plenty more ideas for outside things.

>>1848031
put only the boobies in the OP

Is a concrete slab needed or could I just put the printer on a piece of plywood? This is where it's going.

>>1848301
To the right is a 200lb TV so the shelf should be pretty stable.

>>1848301
To the right is a 200lb TV and there's a couple hundred pounds of copper on the bottom shelf. It should be rock solid I would think.

>>1848152
I've been using them as bonsai pots for 2 years now without issue. I wouldn't use them for anything that could easily deform under heat like brackets or other load bearing items though.

>Find bug in Marlin that crashes nozzle into bed
>Make detailed issiue report on their github
>Someone else is able to reproduce it
>Nothing happens for a while
>Look into disposable email for something else after a while
>See a notice that my issiue was solved
>Check issiue
>Guy asked if it was still an issiue and set it to solved after 3 days
Well whatever I tried to help.

>>1848317
>Guy asked if it was still an issiue
@boelle?

>>1848321
you got it

>>1848301
>>1848308
it might be a bit noisy with plywood. make sure you have some rubber or similar pads.
also, it looks kinda dirty. 3d printers usually require clean environments, otherwise youll get fucked with clogging, inconsistent extrusion and even increased wear on guides/ bearings.

>>1848031
How long did it take to finish this?

>>1848339
Well then I'm screwed, no where in my house is clean. Live in the country so it's always dusty and I'm lazy.

>>1848004
Im looking to make minutures. What resources could i check out before i give up and just ask whats a solid printer that will get me the detail i want for a reasonable price?

>>1848365
depends on size, accuracy and materials.
search for printers from op + miniatures on youtube, youll quickly find what youre looking for. usually ender 3 is enough for dnd or warhammer style miniatures.

>>1848365
resin: ~$350 bucks printer, expsensive consumables(resin,fep,lcd,isopropyl), plug and play, cumbersome to work with, amazing detail
fdm:~$250 bucks printer, cheap consumables(just filament really),needs some learning and time to tune to your desired quality,easy to work with, may want a couple upgrades(auto bed leveling,removable build plate,smaller nozzles)~$100, so-so detail with a 0.4mm nozzle, acceptable detail with a .25 nozzle

If youre looking to just do characters go resin and get a photon or elegoo, however if you also want to do buildings,terrain and large monsters go with fdm(ender 3).

theres "3D printed tabletop" on youtube who has a bunch of videos about getting decent prints out of a stock ender3

>>1848381
Looking at bloodbowl/warhammer quality or damn close. Just printing models about ogre size or smaller. Was gifted a da vinci 1.0 so i can do terrain.

>>1848381
>>1848386
I see ender 3 would either of you anons suggest the anycubic photon for warhammer quality?

>>1848391
for sure, even the cheap resin printers have great detail. pretty sure they even released a firmware update for the photon with anti-aliasing so you can squeeze a tiny bit more detail into your minis

>>1848388
>>1848391
you can get warhammer quality on fdm (ender 3 for example), but youll have to fuck around with setting for a while to get there.
resin will be way easier initially, but working with resins is afaik a chore, plus the material itself is quite expensive.
each has its pros and cons, so its difficult to recommend one or the other with certainty.

>>1848339
>>1848347
I'll dust it off with compressed air occasionally, it'll be fine.

>>1848395
>>1848397
Thanks anons. Now for research since you(s) gave me a jumping off point.

and their done
sketchiest part was hand bending the torsion springs from 2mm wire

>>1848417
what is the purpose of this?

>>1848444
rudder pedals
pretty much required for z when using a joysticks

>>1848449
they look like they came out great.

Good work anon.

So what do you do with failed prints? I know ABS can be recycled with acetone to make slurry/glue, but what about PLA or other stuff?

>>1848499
At the uni I work at, I am currently helping a couple students develop a pellet printer. We've already got a shredder to turn wasted PLA into proper sized granules, just gotta figure out how to print them directly because quality control on filament is a PITA, especially if you're only doing it on a smale scale recycling project.

I have a 3d printer i have no use for anymore.
Sell?

>>1848499
pla costs ~$15 per kg, $20 if youre buying "premium" stuff. its just too cheap to waste time/ energy/ money on recycling it.

>>1848514
learn cad. you will never run out of uses then.

>>1848506
I'm very much interested in this, I know I saw some home made hobby extruders for shreds.

>>1848386
Alternatively, do as I do, I print my space marines at 250% scale from tabletop, comes out at some 120mm tall.

first printer arriving today

>>1848521
I went to Formnext last year, they had several pellet printers there. Apparently most of the discoverywork has been done in the Reprap project by a dude named Richard Horne. Down the rabbit hole you go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW4kmJAypZM
https://www.direct3d.it/
https://mahor.xyz/
https://dyzedesign.com/pulsar-pellet-extruder/
https://www.3dwasp.com/en/professional-3d-printer-delta-wasp-3mt-industrial/
https://titan3drobotics.com/atlas/

So I just fell for the le ebin mean green meme. It might just be the resin I'm using but that was literally the worst fucking cleanup. It doesn't do a goddamn thing to elegoo's abs like grey. Fuck the stupid niggers recommending that shit.

They finally shipped me the correct resin but I cannot figure out what's causing these inconsistencies since this is my first day of having a working printer.
This second test print feels largely like a step back since now the slits on the rectangles are filled along with the heatsink-like part, one of them straight up did not print, and half have missing parts of the angled poles.

>>1848499
just chuck pla into the compost heap

Stupid noob. Unpacked monoprice delta, big complaint number one was hard to remove build plate. Solution: buy this piece of glass. Problem: it doesn't fit fit, I mean it's the right size but I feel like maybe I'm supposed to stick it to the bed, however no instructions and it didn't come with adhesive.

What do? The bed is heated so obviously just anything won't work.

HAHA TIME FOR COOM

>>1848714
You've clearly got the actual coloring technique down but THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS

>>1848526
first printer arrived. Monoprice Select Mini v2. minor adjustments on the bed. Printed the cat off the sd card. looks very nice. I've got a lot more models to try

>Ender 3 Pro
Just tried my first print, one of the default ones that comes on the card. Went to work while it was going and got a call from my roommate that it ejected the print and kept extruding and asking how to turn it off.
I thought I leveled it pretty well, but early on one of the corners was sticking up just a bit. You can see the bit that came up in the front on our right, the cat's left. I set it to preheat before I started since I had to feed the filament anyway. Releveled the bed and it was just as finicky as before where going through every corner fucked up another corner until they all felt close enough.

Any idea why this happened and what I can do to fix it?

>>1848694
I was looking at beds for mine and one of the first results was this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_neR8EbHERF5ZB

The product picture shows banker's clips holding it on, maybe try that?

>chinks think I need their shitty Allen keys
I think not

>>1848762
Watch the video in the SD card, the fold out manual misses a bunch of little things. Also your Z-Stop's mounting plate might be shit and need to have the little indexing tab cut off since the bed will probably be too low for it.

>>1848767
>SD card
Hmm haven't seen one yet, will look again. What do they stick it with?

>>1848773
Nvm it blended pretty well

>>1848773
It was in with the small stuff, can't remember which bag specifically. The one I got looks like a larger, rectangular Chiclet.

>>1848777
Ya I found it, thanks man

>>1848767
>the video
I thought the assembler was a girl based on the nails until they put the x axis on. Yikes

>>1848760
Thanks. Went with double stick poster tape and a layer of blue painter's tape.

First print. Only broke 3 of the legs off when removing supports.

>>1848789

>>1848714

>>1848714
Nice model prend, where'd you get it

>>1848339
noise isn't an issue, it's in my electronics workshop/storage room

>>1848762
Finally printing the cat demo. Got pulled off on other things. Temp running it on workbench till I put a surface on the shelf.

What the fuck is PLA Pro, and why is it such a bitch to find temperatures? I had to fucking boil it and still would get temperature under-extrusion.

>>1848995
PLA with a higher extrusion temperature, resulting in better layer adhesion and stronger parts. Its extrusion temperature is generally 30-40 degrees higher than the regular stuff from normal brands.

So what's the ideal filament for parts that need to be strong?

>>1849003
Carbon filled nylon.

>>1849003
[DATA REDACTED DUE TO NDA]

>>1849005
Can consumer grade printers handle it?

>>1849008
I guess the better question is, what upgrades do I need to make to an Ender 3 Pro to handle nylon and derivatives?

>>1849008
Depends on your definition of ''consumer grade''. You're going to need a high temperature nozzle (e.g. E3D Volcano), heater build chamber, a very hot heated bed, chemical sticky stuff on a glass buildplate, and a filament dryer.

>>1849010
Ok, will keep in mind for when I want to go down that rabbit hole.

>>1848895
Finished Corona cat, what adjustment to minimize this real light stringing?

>>1848517
unironically this. get fusion 360 free and start learning shit

>>1849017
How close is fusion to solidworks? Learned solidworks in college.

>>1848762
>bondhaus
Patrician taste

>>1848762
>he doesn't have colored hex wrenches for quick target aqcuisition
Pleb taste

>>1848004
Oh I'm in the OP! Based OP.

>>1849018
Similar but god forbid if you want to put text on something

Sup guys, gonna be rapid prototyping some high strength impact resistant parts. Mainly carbon fiber and glass filled parts. I know these are abrasive, do I need anything special or am I good with just my stock CR-10?

>>1849030
Filled PLA or PETG isn't nearly as strong as filled nylon, but a regular hotend ought to suffice. You will wear out the nozzles quite rapidly if you go through a spool or so per week, so you might want to go for hardened steel instead of brass. Drivegears might get buggered eventually, but that'll take quite a long time (and money in filament).

What's /3DPG/ filament brand of choice?

>>1848031
>REEEEE PUT ME IN THE OP
No

>>1849023
>he can't instinctively identify sizes and has to rely on color aids
ngmi

>>1849023
Based PB Swiss chad bro

>>1849016
So are you supposed to grease the Z screw? Instructions didn't say anything and it didn't come with any that I saw.

>>1848694
Use clips

>>1849067
Yes. I use Isoflex, but teflon based lubricants are good as well

>>1848694
>hard to remove build plate
Like as in hard to remove parts or hard to remove the plate from the machine?
Because hard to remove parts is a feature not a bug.

>>1849097
Would Kluber GTE 703 work in a pinch? I know it's not really a load bearing grease. Otherwise I have Shin-etsu G-3W-0-M which is what I use on disc drives and joystick bushings. Else I need to buy some grease.

>>1849111
Get dry chain lube at a bicycle shop/Decathlon

>>1849097
>>1849111
>$40+ dollar a tube grease
You boys stealing it from work or what?

>>1849115
>Bicycle lube
How about motorcycle chain lube?

>>1848760
nice
>>1848748
So here is my first ever print from yesterday off the Monoprice select mini. Is this about the best quality I can expect? I'm happy with it but any tips would be appreciated.

Say in theory I would like to upgrade my chiron's extruder and hotend to get better quality prints, what hoops and what difficulties would I have to face to get better quality PLA Prints?

tfw you pop the card out and it launches into the next dimension never to be see again

>>1849146
i'm surprised i still have the card that came with me ender3, looking forwards to a usb connection when i can move my printers into the same room as my pc

>>1849152
I know if I ever find it I'm printing a retainer/catch basin.

>>1849153
I've lost mine, printed over USB before I got another SD, and then my younger sister finds it when we were painting minis, under the table in the opposite corner of the room solid 10 meters from the printer.

>>1848004
hey im normally not from this board can anybody give me suggestions. i want to 3d print a grip for my camera its relatively small (omd 10 mark II) what the best practice , should i just ask around town, should i try designing it myself or should i just use a model of the internet
Thanks

>>1849157
If ye find a model on the internet, good for you, if not, learn CAD or basic 3d modelling, it ain't so hard man

>>1849160
>>1849157
yeah i have some experience i guess it wouldn't be that hard, what material should i be looking at, it has to be sturdy

>>1849161
Asa and Aceton polish for Good feel

>>1849126
Too much resistance, it sticks too much. You need it for fine movements

what's a good software for bashing stl meshes together? Everything is too many faces for Fusion360 and then if you reduce and slice you cannot close, you can't merge... all I want to do is hang a skull-front on a door for D&D and slice it.

>>1849005
CF Nylon is a meme. It's marginally better than a good normal nylon filament. Carbon fiber only works in long rigid runs, in which case they'd be too rigid to spool and feed into a moving printer because it's more rigid than aluminum. The chopped strand CF in these normal filaments offer little improvements over the base plastic.

>>1849233
>The chopped strand CF in these normal filaments offer little improvements over the base plastic.
>source: my ass
https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/TDS_NYLON.pdf
https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/TDS_PA12_CF15.pdf
As you can see chopped carbon fibre gives great improvements in strength and rigidity for most nylon prints. That being said, one has to consider the fiber orientation when printing with CF, just like any CF-related process. The fibers are spread trailing in the path and direction of the nozzle, so printing with a thick shell and concentric infill gets you the strongest practical results. The limiting factor is layer adhesion: since there are no fibers jumping between layers (yet...), the layer adhesion is the same as base nylon filament. A good designer can work around this though by either loading the layers in compression, or not loading them at all (just apply force solely in the X,Y-plane). But hey, you already knew that even with basic PLA this is the case, right? Right?

>>1849232
I'm barely on day 2 of fucking around with my printer, but my first CAD model was a basic dick shape. The problem was I made the balls too big so the shaft floated which would require supports. To avoid this, I just lowered the model in Cura, cutting off the lower round of the balls but letting the shaft lay flat against the table.

Just try lowering the Z-axis in your slicer so the back that you want flat is below the print table.

>>1849247
maybe you shouldn't post

Are filament guides a meme? I don't see the purpose on the 3 pro which has a brass bushing so It doesn't wear out hole like the old ones.

>>1849232
I think meshmixer is probably best for that Teaching tech had a good vid on it

>>1849255
Why not? It worked for me flattening a model without needing to anything but change one number.

>>1849232
Meshmixer, try that, and then slice the results in your favourite slicer. Alternatively, Blender but you'll have to make the results manifold.

>>1849261
I’m with her, with 2 days experience you shouldn’t post and give “advice”

>>1849301
Tell me the right way then so we all learn.

>>1849305
When you’ll have an engineering degree you may talk to me

What is /3DPG/ printing today?

I'm making miniatures personally.

Anyone here done this CR10 AIO build? I really like the idea of no control box and this is the cleanest looking one out there. It's made by some french guy and all the instructions are google translated to english. No BOM, instead it has parts lists for each page and it's all over the place with different screw sizes. Anyone just glued this shit together?

>>1849360
Also, what is meant by "Parker card fixation"
In the french pdf it's called "Fixation carte parker" if that helps identify what they mean. I tried asking in the french CR10 FB group but no one answered.

>>1849033
Yeah, I have already bought a hardened nozzle, but do I need to do anything special like put the printer in a cabinet and place the filament in a dehydrator so it won't have moisture? The main material this printer will print will probably be zytel or something similar.

Also, do I need to upgrade the hotend for higher temps?

>>1849338
You got any good fliers or any vehicles? I kind of want to get a few ork fliers and paint them up as the deff skwadron

>>1849368
>but do I need to do anything special like put the printer in a cabinet and place the filament in a dehydrator so it won't have moisture?
If you want reliable prints? Hell yes. Even for regular nylon (Zytel is just a brand name) you want a heated enclosure, filament dryer, and a good hotend - just take a look at the extrusion temperatures, and remember you don't just want layers slathered together, you want good, solid layer adhesion which is highly dependant on the viscosity (and therefore temperature) of the extruded material.

>>1849338
doors for D&D

SLAfags BTFO
https://www.artstation.com/artwork/3d-printed-cat-skeleton-sculpted-in-zbrush

>>1849394
How does this blow out SLAfags exactly? I can see the fucking layer lines and strings/globs.

>>1849404
it was posted 6 years ago, what would you expect

>>1849404
cope

>>1849394

Great, try printing this at 1/10th scale

>>1849408
Thanks, I'll try.

>>1849360
Plastic feet seem like a bad idea. Plastic is far more susceptible to deforming under heat and pressure than metal is

Any 3D printers that can do a good job printing PCB and electronics yet or is that still not very practical with current tech?

>>1849240
What about finishing in non planar ?

>>1849449
nonplanar is still a meme for now

>>1849447
Why would you want to 3d print a PCB?

You can have a small router for the same price as a cheap 3d printer.

>>1849451
I finished in you mom and she's a meme now.

>>1849003
PEKK or Ultem

>>1849046
Hatchbox

>>1849447
Not really. There's conductive filament which I haven't used but heard generally neutral to negative things about, but there does exist a machine where you can 2D print a circuit onto a substrate, but I forget what it's called. Most machines are $3000+ though

>>1849549
I second this, quality is good, for most colors, avoid black, a lot of people have reporting getting pla black, tangled and breaking on them. It happened to me, probably still a thing.

>>1849459
its cheaper to buy chinese pcb these days

also, who would know this, /mcg/, /r/, or /g/?
I have a pi zero running an SPI interfaced 8 channel DAC and a couple of dip switches for my instrument (I got the 0w for 5 bucks years ago and it runs fine headlessly). the computer is just running a visual coding language meant for audio patches (same sort of setup as the beaglebone bela but for 5$). I'm currently working on moving from the breadboard to a PCB, but I'm wondering, since all the software works now and should work with any SPI port on a linux board, which SBC would have the minimum cost but the lowest latency, or what kernels or whatever can reduce the wifi(hostmode) and GPIO latency to a minimum on the pi zero. I've only needed to use rasbian for octoprint, so I never explored what other debian flavors could reduce IO latency.

extra shit you dont need to reed
beaglebones also run on one core (which is enough, its one headless user program) but supposedly the PRU cores or whatever that the expensive bela uses makes it close to realtime linux(~1ms). Would a multicore pi/sbc or even just a compute module (which would be a bitch to debug) lower the latency compared to a pi0?
the replicape is still faster than a pi3 powered klipper build, but IDK if that's due to the USB limitations or how the beagle handles GPIO.
I dont want to spend over $150 on a single core SPC kit that I already made with a $5 board and an adc, nor anyone should. The PocketBeagle is reasonable but for that price I could go multicore AND I loose wifi, which means I have to add that back.

>>1849553
Is it a black thing? My black pla for my 3D pen is more like tar and I always have problems with it.

Doors came out. I screwed up the model a bit so I played with painting the pairs. 1/3

>>1849644
In situ 2/3

>>1849646
Dumping paint on. 3/3

I didn't eliminate the rear side doorframe on these, so they're not universally pairable as intended, thus the paint for temporary use.

>>1849648
Fug

Also sorry for not collage/ crop, being a dirty phone poster atm

>>1848004
this just might be the only usefull thing ive printed.
a tightening strap from a cheap welding helmet

>>1849644
Yeah, it's black, but it's noticeably heavier and feels almost chalky to the touch

Is the filament absorbing water even a real issue for PLA?

>>1849761
Yes, but not instantly like with nylon. Most spools are fine for at least a year, maybe two, depending on storage.

>>1849371
Saw a couple Imperial tanks redesgins, found this ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777389 ) on thingiverse, it's Epic scale, though nothing's stoping you from scaling it in slicer. Which is what I do with my tabletop scale marines.

>>1849770
Also also, literally just looked up ork on yeggi and got a lot of vehicles.

Should I get siraya blu or mix siraya tenacious with elegoo gray?

>>1849652
Is that off a 0.8mm nozzle?

Is this normal for a 2mm layer height?

What layer width do you guys use?

Usually I had my width equal to the nozzle diameter, but apparently you're supposed to have at least your layer height + nozzle diameter as width?

>>1849986
between 32 and 34, depending on material and which of my 2 nozzles (both 0.4)

>>1849991
So 0.32 on a 0.4 nozzle? Isnt that not enough?

Also check em

>>1849982
No, lower your print speed.

>>1849991
>>1849993
whoa, I use .4 with .42 for infill, but I could see .32 thin walls working, at least with S3D.

>>1849995
I don't really see it working. With a width smaller than the nozzle, there is no squish or any force that would push the filament properly onto the previous layers, especially on the outer wall

>>1849996
the "thin wall" mode keeps minimum flow by going extra fast (and in my experience already prints.3 just fine), for overall skin quality and infill I bet it would be weak, but for an outer wall, since its sticking to a .4mm internal wall, it would work just fine. Undersides might look worse though.

>>1849999
checked
fuck jannies

>>1849993
lower width means more lines of less thickness
there is a setup sweet spot but its a lot of trouble to find that.
>not enough
LW does not really change absolute extrusion rate. no matter what you enter, its basically the same E steps per layer
>I don't really see it working.
its even in the tool tip that smaller lw are beneficial

>>1850003
my concern is the printed layer not melting into the lower layer, the squishing makes layer bonding stronger, that's why that gradiant infill changes layer width for extra strength where its needed.
I dont see the benefit of printing internal walls with something that low unless someone can explain the "sweetspot" being lower or higher than the nozzle wight, same with the higher widths I use in infill.
https://youtu.be/9YaJ0wSKKHA

>>1850018
two pieces of the same info from the same youtuber is completely coincidental

>>1849982
Damn your calicat looks like shit

>>1849994
It's 50mm/s, I thought that was low. Mk10 DD extruder.

>>1850026
check your extruder and temps, its skipping

>>1850026
>>1850027
This, lower extrusion speed and raise the temps

>>1850027
>>1850032
k

>>1850027
>>1850034
it might also be his fan cooling down the nozzle many anons forget to disable the fan or check for drafts when printing PLA or other low temp filaments.

>>1850018
dont ever link me that guys stuff ever again
I dont get you strength fags. i cant even separate my pla printed vase mode objects by force, do you plan on printing climbing hooks or what?

hint
That "squish" is also what fuck up your x/y dimensions and small details.
See how that youtuber never talks about x/y dimensions on the test pieces?
printing accurate means getting rid of that squish, the layers will still fuse due to temperature and thermal mass.

>>1850039
Printing at 0.4 with .42 infill isn't going to sacrifice quality, it keeps large models stiff and, again, the small wall mode keeps everything at ideal volumetric rates for fast prints.
>fucks up xy dimentions
bullshit, all it does is fuck up corners and cant have the resolution for details, which is why you use it for infill. I see no detail increase going down in extrusion width from .4, especially when the go lower you have to print more shells. extrusion width on a properly calibrated printer will have no effect on xy dimensions even at .6 or .7 layer width.

>>1850039
retard

>>1850054
whatever works for you i guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
if its all bullshit for you then i'll save my time explaining further
>>1850056
what constructive statement

fuck you /3dpg/, this time im done with you

>>1850057
please, tell me why lower extrusion width will aid in print quality, I'm not op and all he asked for was opinions on the ideal

>>1850039
if you don't want strength then get the fuck away from FDM you dumbass

How do you guys level? single sheet of paper, folded sheet, or feeler gauges?

>>1850075
0.10mm feeler gauge.

>>1850075
By eye, and now that i have an automatic thingy it's also by eye, still gotta adjust z-offset

>>1850078
>>1850081
Teach me your ways. It is leveled perfect but after a print I always lose gap on the left. My prints seem to loose dimensional accuracy on the left side due to it as well. Do I need to level hot?

>>1850075
a sticky note, raise and then lower until it drags a bit

>>1850091
get a better pair of eyes or a better printer

>>1850103

>>1850104
It's an ender 3 pro, at first I had issues with the wires hitting and turning the back left leveling wheel but I have that fixed now. Prints look great just I know when I printed an SD card holder the slots got tighter the more to the left side of the table they were.

>>1848762
when i was putting ender 3 together, i actually had to use my bondhus set because some belt tensioner bolt got stuck and their shitty allen key started sliding off. i'm just some casual person and i never thought i'd need quality tools in my life, so it felt really nice to have this one purchase validated.

Would you guys mind walking me through the process of printing precise prints? I'm trying to learn the ropes, so i've decided to print pic related. Thingy is about 25x40mm. The problems i have are mostly related to how printer prints those bolt parts of hinge, it seems to be inaccurate. It often pours plastic between the spacing that divides the bolt, and if i want the hinge to move without too much problems, i need to make the hole significantly bigger than the bolt part is. Right now, bolt is around 3.2mm in diameter, and hole is 4.5mm, otherwise it has troubles moving around. I'm using cura, but i'm not using anything other than some support generation (hinges don't print well otherwise, and hole often collapses inside).

I think it would print in more precise manner if i'd print it in standing-up position, but i wanna avoid it - it's a tutorial project after all, time to learn some problem-solving, not work around it. Any tips on what kind of stuff i could try to make it print in more precise manner?

>>1850178
Horizontal expansion -0.10 -0.20

>>1850178
>Would you guys mind walking me through the process of printing precise prints?

This might sound a little stupid...but the most helpful answer I can give you is to not need precise prints. 3D printing, and FDM in particular, doesn't lend itself well to precision parts when you're working below a certain scale. Generally speaking, if something needs to fit together, it either needs to do so with a relatively large, robust, simple feature, or it needs to be done in such a way that you aren't wholly reliant on the printed part to do it.

As an example, the part you have shown is reliant on a small-ish locking clip that has a bunch of sharp corners on surfaces that aren't much larger than the nozzle they're being printed with. Worse, they require support, no matter what orientation they're in. That's already a bad recipe. Unless you can make them much larger, you're better off simply using a normal hinge joint, and locking them together with a piece of filament or piece of wire, like a nail. A simple hole is much easier to print cleanly than what you have there.


As for actually printing with tight tolerances, that mostly comes with having a well-tuned printer to begin with. Once you get clean prints, it's just a matter of some trial and error. Familiarity with what your printer tends to do in terms of undersized/oversized dimensions and surface finish helps cut down on or eliminate that process. In any event, knowing what kind of tolerances you can get away with in the first place and designing around those limitations is way better than trying to brute force your way to a working feature that really isn't suited to being printed in the first place.

Any good settings for Cura supports at 0.6mm nozzle? When I was using simplify3d supports required barely any setup and came out fine. Cura's supports are fucking garbage if you tweak something even a little bit.

>>1850207
I mean, I know that i can avoid most of my problems with different design, that's what i'm going to do later. For now, i just want to try stuff like anon's advice here >>1850193 to check if i can get any more precise. Trying horizontal expansion now.

>>1850220

Honestly, kind of just think you should look up some guides or whatever on tuning a printer to begin with. Just looking at that top surface indicates that your flow rate is fucked. Exactly where (as there are a number of parameters that affect flow rate) is unclear, but that's a place to start. It also looks like your retraction isn't set well, as there's a bunch of crap in the split pin gaps and random hairs here and there.

You really need to work on getting clean prints first before you try adjusting tolerances. It's kind of important to have your features actually be the right shape before trying to get them to the right size.

>>1850228
Are there any of those problems visible on this benchy? Following the initial calibration guide (measure 100mm of filament, dimensional accuracy, whatnot) was the first thing i did, but i guess i can get through it again, this time more carefully, if you say stuff's still borked.

>>1850057
s e e t h e
e
e
t
h
e

>>1850252
You might want to print it a little slower, you've got some ghosting and thin lines on the floor of the ship.

>>1850252
That benchy is not good enough for precission parts. The toplayer is horrendous

Alrighty, thanks everyone. I'll re-run myself through all kinds of calibration guides i can find, educate myself on retraction, and see where it takes me.

Printer popped out print with >>1850193 's horizontal expansion, but it didn't change much in terms of overall fitment. Maybe bolt looks a bit cleaner now, but it could be printer RNG.

how the fuck do I remove remains of PLA from the bed? Had a print fail and I've got little annoying spots on my bed made from PLA.

>>1849652
very close. 1mm
its the only one ive been using lately

I spent half day designing this car in FreeCAD from stratch, do you like it? (I definitely do).

It has four wheels, a suspension and three control levers: steering, clutch and brake. It is powered by single action oscillating steam engine made yesterday.
Steering is very similar to an ordinary car, clutch is of belt type and brakes apply not on the brake disks, but near the engine.

I think you guys could print it, with tweaks: for example i haven't added any nuts, without which some parts won't hold in place. Also there are no ball bearings, but should be.

>>1850327
It should be possible to make everything from plastic, except for leaf springs and engine.

>>1849620
> > small router
> its cheaper to buy chinese pcb these days
Neither, it's still more convenient to do a thermal transfer.

>>1849620
> which SBC would have the minimum cost but the lowest latency
Measure first what causes the latency. Look at perf or bpftrace programs and use the kernel tracepoints to see what takes most time. Most probably 99% of the latency is related to wifi.

> Would a multicore pi/sbc or even just a compute module (which would be a bitch to debug) lower the latency compared to a pi0?
With multicore, you can severely reduce latency jitter by using isolcpus kernel option to isolate some core to execute solely your program.
SBCs with extra FPGA / realtime mcu are substantially more expensive.

>>1850329
Here is the engine. It's so inefficient that I doubt it will produce at least 1 watt of power. Still, since I left enough space in the car, it can be upscaled 5 or so times. If even that won't help, redesigning it to be double action is 30 minutes work. Engines main feature is being built from under 10 separate parts.

>>1849761
The problem with PLA and moisture is that PLA reacts with water in high temperatures resulting in weaker PLA (decomposition - polymer chains break).
So basically prints made with humid PLA are weaker.
Doesn't matter if you print figurines, matters if you need stress-resilient parts.

>>1850333
If anyone is interested in the model

https://gofile.io/d/WSIVWE

(I don't know how long this site stores files so it may be unavailable soon)

>>1850343

I accidentally uploaded empty file.

>>1850358
https://gofile.io/d/GHA5ym here's the link.


Mods, I promise I stop flooding the thread after this message.

>>1850327
freecad is pretty good once u get used to the quirks.

>>1848004
How toxic is ABS plastic? Can I pop it in my mouth or will I get poisoned from it?

I'm working on a werewolf costume and I was thinking about printing the teeth with ABS and then do an acetone vapor bath to smooth the teeth out and then put them in my mouth (after washing them of course). I'd use them as pic related, they'd go in my mouth but I'm worried that it'd get poisoned by the material.

>>1850395
Don' use ABS for that. If single-use PLA is likely be the safest. With PETG coming in a close second place.

>>1850395
No clue about their toxicity, but ASA can also be acetoned and PVA can be IPA'd.

Also how about doing whatever you do and then applying some kind of coating?

>>1850178
You have to design the part with the available production methods in mind. Those treads could be designed for FDM in two different ways.
1. Design them for upright printing. Both sides of the tabs need to be chamfered 45 degrees so they can be built out gradually.
2. Alternatively don't bother with the retaining pegs at all. Just use through-holes and use axle pins made from lengths of filament or steel wire like weld-rod, spring pins, or finishing nails. For accurate fit in the through-holes of the printed parts you will probably need to touch them up by hand using a drill bit in a pin vice..

>>1850398
I'd go with natural pla or a basic color too, same with petg
there's also some semiflexable materials (the same kind used in tupperware) that would be safe to use, but I forgot the name. I always wanted to print with it but its really expensive.
>>1850395
make sure to clean whatever you use (to print and what's printed) and dont leave it in the sun and you should be fine.

>>1850331
>thermal transfer
I'm thinking I should have tried to do that in a sand bath insted of the perf board attempt
thanks for the suggestions, I've been testing over the usb-ethernet gadget mode (and SSH) and decided to test the GPIO via led and most of the lag I've had is due to the network. If I move to something like a pi 3 a or a small clone I can do the audio processing and output on board to avoid all this.

>>1850398
The reason I don't wanna use PLA is because I can't smooth it and I'm afraid that I'll cut my gums with it.

>>1850399
I did some read-up on ABS and apparently Lego is made out of it, I think pretty much ever kid put a lego piece in their mouth at some point so I'm worried about the ABS toxicity anymore. But I'm still shaky that the acetone will deform the ABS in some way and make it toxic to have in my mouth.

>>1850402
I'll throughly clean whatever I'll use, I won't be lazy there and risk getting poisoned.
ASA plastic is kind of interesting tho, first time I've heard about it but I can't find any info on smoothing it with acetone.

What size difference do you guys use for clearance for press fits?
I cant seem to get it right

How do you cleanly remove supports off resin prints? Every single time I snap them off they either leave a little piece protruding outward (which isn't that big a deal) or they leave a little circular indention like it snapped too far up which is a pain in the ass.

>>1850422
the problem with ABS is that it degrades in light. as long as its not PC it'll still be safe to put in your mouth. I'd look for something more flexible and like polypropylene but that warps and is more expensive than nylon. ASA I bet would be safe, it all depends on the additives and colors.

>>1850395
Why not print a mold instead and cast the teeth out of a food safe material?

>>1850429
Get sanding bud

>>1849986
>apparently you're supposed to have at least your layer height + nozzle diameter as width
You're telling me some people recommend a line width of 0.6-0.7 on an 0.4mm nozzle? That seems like it would turn out with very ragged edges.

>>1850075
plain business card

>>1850506
thank you for giving me confidence with my nanachi painting skills

>>1850506
thin your fucking paints

>>1850512
That's just lumps of dried jizz under the l
paint.

>>1849620
i have 2 setups, one beagleboneblack with rtpreempt kernel, and rpi4 with rtpreempt kernel with an fpga via spi. beaglebone has less latency hands down, idk what you are doings, but the machinekit/linuxcnc have a driver for the PRU and gets pretty low latency, suitable for motion control. it doesnt have much ram n shit so my gui is kinda slugish, otherwise good. rpi has useable latency with the rtpreempt kernel, but to avoid spikes, i disable wifi and blutooth and use an fpga via spi. i have small screens hooked up to both of them. for basically same cost bbb with cramps or pi with fpga, get the same results but graphically bbb is slower. on a side note there are other boards that are getting used for this like the orange pi boards, rockpi/shit with rockchip, and jetson nano

>>1850537
all I'm doing is using a multichannel adc and a few gpio switches that are only used for swapping settings headlessly. as long as the version of linux supports pure data (pocketbeage and any pi does) I can send it to a dac, pwm audio on the zero, or network midi. I dont plan on using a GUI and the patches are lightweight enough to be ran on a single core (ADSR envelope).
I'm currently reading up on how the PRU cores can be used and my ADC is common enough to be used in example code http://exploringbeaglebone.com/chapter15/ but losing network and a headphone jack on the pocketbeagle means USB midi and no audio, which means It'll be a bit less convenient and ill have to source and find a useable dac.
<50ms is ideal, especially since this is breath controlled, most digital workstations try to get below 15ms round trip (input to analog out)
does any other sbc support PRU cores? it seems these have a <1ms response as opposed to ~25-50ms on pis with a fully optimized kernel

>>1848004
I need a 13x13 aluminum bed for a used printer I got. This bed is warped to shit and even using glass and tape doesn't flatten it out enough to be usable. Approximately how much can I expect to pay at a metal fabrication shop for a plain sheet of 13x13 aluminum about 3mm thick? Thanks babes

>>1850563
final line is in microseconds, my m key is broken, so I use ctl+v for units

>>1850537
all I'm doing is using a multichannel adc and a few gpio switches that are only used for swapping settings headlessly. as long as the version of linux supports pure data (pocketbeage and any pi does) I can send it to a dac, pwm audio on the zero, or network midi. I dont plan on using a GUI and the patches are lightweight enough to be ran on a single core (ADSR envelope).
I'm currently reading up on how the PRU cores can be used and my ADC is common enough to be used in example code http://exploringbeaglebone.com/chapter15/ but losing network and a headphone jack on the pocketbeagle means USB midi and no audio, which means It'll be a bit less convenient and ill have to source and find a useable dac.
<50ms is ideal, especially since this is breath controlled, most digital workstations try to get below 15ms round trip (input to analog out)
does any other sbc support PRU cores? Bela claims 100microseconds (before ADC) using compiled c code of the PD patches (using a beaglebone), but as long as I can reach 15ms total on a pi running wifi (for recording not playback), I can just dedicate a core to run the same compiled code on a pi https://github.com/enzienaudio/hvcc

>>1850569
That's like $30. You can pick that up on what or Amazon. For local find a metal supermarket

>>1850499
That'd be the smart option, anon.

>>1850039
Breathable water repellent shoes.

>>1850510
eugh

>>1850577
>does any other sbc support PRU cores?
Other BeagleBoards.
For example the x15 or xM have audio jacks and ethernet.

>>1850510
THIN YOUR PAINTS

>>1850685
the core issue with this version was not sanding enough (not sanding before gluing the parts together and after priming), and not thinning the paint
the current one is being filled and sanded as parts before reassembly and painting details

>>1848031
are you gonna hotglue it anon

is there a way to predict how much a print will shrink and compensate for it? I made this drill guide in blender and printed it out of PLA. it should have fit a 3/8" drill bit, but the fit was very tight and I ended up having to drill the guide out before using it on what I needed. luckily everything worked out fine. weirdly though, I measured several other dimensions like the length of the base and the outer diameter of the column, and they were nearly dead-on. so why was the inside so far off?

is there a way to predict how much a print will shrink and compensate for it? I made this drill guide in blender and printed it out of PLA. it should have fit a 3/8" drill bit, but the fit was very tight and I ended up having to drill the guide out before using it on what I needed. luckily everything worked out fine. weirdly though, I measured several other dimensions like the length of the base and the outer diameter of the column, and they were nearly dead-on. so why was the inside so far off?

>>1850422
Check out the latest video by Prusa, they show you how to smooth ABS and ASA, also PVA.

But I just realized PVA wont work, as its water soluable lmao

>>1850720
Inside diameter of printed holes will almost always come out a little small on printed parts. You can touch them up with a drill bit after printing, or measure and adjust the CAD file so the printed results comes out in the size you intended. There's always a dimension tolerance to consider with printing.

>>1850510
Your craftsmanship leaves a lot to be desired.

>>1850729
eh, first paint job. I learned and moved to sandable pla composite, filler, and painting parts. When I get a primer coat on the 1.5 scale updated model Ill be sure to ask you guys how shit I am *before* painting.

What do you use to remove nozzles, anons?

>>1850752
1-2 pliers, dont use needle nose, grip from the unwired sides. wrench is ideal, one of those hex nut and 3d printed torque wrenches would be overkill, but most ideal, so I dont use it. you can get individual ones in cheap bike repair kits tho...

>>1850752
This is objectively the correct answer.

>>1850752
Swedish nutfucker (Bahco adjustable spanner) on the heater block if necessary, 7mm deep socket on a ratchet for the nozzle itself.

>>1850756

>>1850754
>>1850756
>>1850758
Thanks frens, had to get a new bowden connector so I passed by the store and they had nozzles on sale, so I thought why not? It kinda boggles me that my Chiron didn't come with a wrench small enough to remove the nozzle.

>>1850759
Lmao, very based.

>>1850760
No Problem! Yeah even my toolbox I bought didnt have the small 6 and 7 wrenches - I had to buy them seperately. Get some good ones though, as the nozzle should be heated up when unscrewing.

>>1850759
how is that funny?

>>1850331
> its cheaper to buy chinese pcb these days
>Neither, it's still more convenient to do a thermal transfer
Stupid question; you think you could use a resin 3d printer (without the tank) to uv expose a PCB? Like set up an STL of the circuit that's 1 layer high, set the exposure for 2 minutes (or however long), put the copper on the glass and let it run?

>>1850395
uhm anon
do a prototype in PLA or whatever you like , refine it by filling or sanding and make a silicone mold from it
then use dental resin
you know the same stuff dentists use to make retainers

>>1850842
https://youtu.be/-Qeq7ZgUOuE

>>1850847
Or use latex for that familiar taste of dick in your mouth. :^)

What the fuck is flowrate?
>Get bad supports really flaky non hold kind
>Callibrated flow
>Increased setting by 2%-ish
>Get perfect printing
I don't fucking understand
Why is printing so fucking magic, like you move one slider slightly and it affects everything so much, I thought FDM was supposed to be forgiving.

I love it.

>>1850859
>I thought FDM was supposed to be forgiving
no
depending on the level youre looking for this shit is incredible hard

>>1850859
get ready, your printer is just guessing on extrusion, esteps are a lie and volumetric printing with a flow sensor is the only true way to print a known volume.
the hotend has an ideal pressure and temp to print continuously, going above (or too low temps) leads to >>1849982, going below leads to thin top surfaces and lines not holding, like your experience.
flow rate can be thought of as a modification to esteps to increase the volume of material printed.
lin_advance (how much flow occurs during slow downs and corners) and extrusion width is also affects flow rates (and therefore your maximum speed), so check your first layer for that reddit-like perfection to dial in that flow rate on new temps/ materials and dial in your linear advance every few seasons or if you get a new cooling solution.
volumetric printing is noting special, you still have to control for flow rate, you just can use real units to KNOW how much plastic is coming out (it doesn't automate anything either)

>>1850865
in the end you still run on esteps

>>1850872
yeh and most printers can run in "volumetric" mode

>>1850865
Thanks man! I've had problems with only walls on the first layer not adhering at all to the rest of the print, which now with the flow rate seems to have gone away, trying to print a mini right now, currently at the supports as I print them raised a bit above the plate itself.

>>1850876
Still, I managed this without any sort of callibration, so I hope the results I'll get now will be better than pic related. Yes, that's a regular size SD for scale.

>>1850878
No idea why is it sideways, appears fine in gallery, and in Discord.

>>1850859
I finally went full SLA because I couldn't stand FDM. There's too much bullshit involved. Constantly chasing the dragon that is a perfectly leveled bed, moist filament, extruder problems, etc. I spent more time fucking with something than I did actually printing.

>>1850882
t. $100 dollar printer, stores filament in the open

FDM is much easier than SLA once you get the settings dialed in and dont have shitty hardware. Its just click and go, whereas with SLA you have to do all the postprocessing every time.
It also costs much more to print resin.

>>1849771
>>1849770
Sick as, mate.

>>1850885
Had and Ender 3 Pro. It did print fine when it was working like it was supposed to but having to constantly fuck with it in some regard just wasn't worth it.
>you have to do all the postprocessing every time
Literally just rinse and stick under some UV light. SLA just werks®
>costs much more
I'll give you that one.

>>1850888
I actually contemplated SLA, but with resin being something that's in Nurgle's cauldron and the fact that the sun is outta fuck here, I decided not to, besides the printer is cheaper and cheaper to run, and the finicking is fun, after it's finished.

The fucking stroke inducing process isn't tho.

>>1850888
the problem I have with SLA is that its only really trinkets and anime models. Half of everything I printed couldn't be done on SLA, but 90% could be done on an ender. That's why, in good conscience, never recommend SLA as a good first printer until you dip your feet into the water. Unless you rip/create your own game models already, it'll lead to a paperweight quicker than most toys.

>>1850892
Resin honestly isn't that bad and you can just get a UV lamp.
>>1850895
What do you mean? It's good for those because of the level of detail that you can achieve. I agree that it's not good for mechanical parts though. Other than that it works for pretty much everything.

>>1850901
KB
>>1850901
Yeah, that's the thing, the lamps, the washing, the printing material....meanwhile I can get a roll of PLA and some primers and colors for the price of what I would have to shell out for resin. I don't disagree with you about the details, but the price/work ratio to the results isn't even worth it for me.

>>1850901
>pretty much everything else
fdm is a jack of all trades, very cheap, expert at mechanical parts, hard to fully master
if I told my (nonexistant) 14 y/o cousin, who's interested in 3d design and figurines to buy a SLA printer, he's gonna spend a higher upfront cost, but less functionality. if you KNOW what you're going to print, then all you need are suggestions on what brand to choose, someone who's just starting out doesn't know if they want to print only figurines, or CAD, or just thingiverse items; extra large models and tools wont be printed on an ender 3, nor will the detail of an SLA printer, but at the price compared to specific tools, a wanhao duplicator, an ender 3, or a qidi would be my recommendation for a first printer (with amazon returns). If he finds that he only wants to print models he made in meshmixer, then he can return it and go for an SLA printer.

>>1850395
ABS is incredibly body safe. Not only that, if you acetone dip it you'll make it nigh completely none porous. That's considerably better than PLA for reusability. In addition to this, coat it with spray on silicone for extra safety and reliability. I've made plenty a sex toy with the stuff.

>>1850946
>spray on silicone
I doubt any spray on silicone is food safe, dont do this.

>>1850888 checked
>just rinse and stick under UV light
Dont forget about filtering the resin, replacing the sheets sometimes, wearing gloves while handling all of it, cleaning up spills sometimes, ...
Perhaps if you have some really good workflow it can be really simple aswell, but I'd hate dealing with fluids and having to postprocess.

Is there a reason that the Longer Orange 10 is cheaper than the Photon Zero and the Mars despite it also having a matrix UV light array? It looks like a really good deal right now.

>>1850506
Can you share that nude edit?

>>1850956
You only need to filter resin when you put it back in the bottle. You don't need to do that unless you're not going to use it again for weeks, otherwise it's safe to just leave it for a while. So normally you just clean and post-cure

>>1850974
I see, thanks.
Resin prints always look so cool, but the small print volume makes them only really useful for figurines IMO.
Also resin is resin, FFF allows me a much greater choice like TPU or PC stuff.

>>1850882
>Moist filament
Do you exclusively print nylon and live in a jungle? I've never had issues with moist filament but I also live in desert shrubland.

The only thing I don't like about SLA is that high strength material resins are super expensive

>>1851040
Not him, but I print reinforced nylon and I live in about 60-90% humidity. Imagine taking a shower, putting on your clothes real fast and running outside into 100F degree heat. That's what it's like ALL the time, so I have to print in the house in a box that vents the fumes and smell outside.

>>1851060
I cant imagine the nylon game in texas. Printing a full roll petg is a major problem here.
>>1851056
thats what trade secrets do, photopolymers arent that common outside dental and a few specialty materials. strong thermoplastics are common because of the global economy

>>1851011
Just break up your parts and key them together. In fact, it's a pretty common technique for larger figurines, even injection molded ones. If you need a larger volume you can wait for the Elegoo Saturn or spend more money on one of various large format resin printers like the Epax X133

>>1848004
are there any good slicers to deal with thin lines? 'detect thin lines' with slic3r and cura dont really fit the lines well with the rest of the print.

>>1851074
S3D is known for its thin wall support, but I haven't used in years

FDMCucks GTFO, this is a resinchad only thread

the only thing i dont like about resin is fiddling with supports for an hour and then having ugly pits when I remove them anyway

>>1851119
also, for some reason my prints arent coming out as detailed as id hoped, I tried running an exposure finder but couldnt completely understand the results,the best looking result seemed to be the one i was already using.
guess its the FDMlet life for me

>>1851114
>fdmcucks
your printer's broken

>>1850756
Not necessarily, I use a ratchet with a 7(?)mm socket and a 17(?)mm wrench. Makes it easier to thread when you can spin it around and not have to fiddle with removing/replacing the wrench every half-turn

>>1851119
Sidecutters. Check out the gunpla thread on /toy/ or /m/ for more information on removing trees. Those lads have been doing it for over a decade

>>1851137
interesting, should i do the cutting pre or post curing?

>>1850895
>SLA is only really trinkets and anime models
Depends on your use case. SLA's enabled me to make things that I flat-out would not be able to do with an FDM printer unless I either extensively post-processed it or cast it out of plastic, due to the tolerances you can get, the watertightness, and the more-or-less isotropy.

>>1850909
>less functionality
See above

>>1850954
amazon.com/CRC-03040-Silicone-Lubricant-Weight/dp/B00192D0TQ
incorrect. spray-on silicone coatings also exist but I can't find any at the moment.

>>1850946
amazon.com/Dragon-Skin-Making-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B00SK4B9IA/
try this for even more fun results. cheap and easy.

>>1851137
this.
>>1851119
>>1851156
I usually do it pre-curing unless I have a good reason not to; if you do it post-curing than it often "pits" the surface; since the material's a lot harder, your clippers sometimes fracture the supports instead of cutting through them.

>>1851160
ahh makes sense, thanks mate

>>1851160
>Spray lube
find me a food safe "spray silicone"
spray-on silicone molding is meant to peel off for casting large models without wasting gallons of the stuff, it contains release agents. you're thinking about spray on coatings like plastidip which is indeed nontoxic(but not silicone); but there is no "silicone spray" coating that's not lube or a demulsifier (both of which will cause the runs if ingested).

>>1851194
There probably isn't because that sounds like an extremely niche application. Conformal sprays generally aren't food safe because you're not eating/ingesting/etc. the thing you're coating. On the off chance you are, there's little reason to not make the whole thing from food-safe silicone or with a thin layer of it on top

>>1851194
There's spray on food grade silicone lube but I'm not sure that's what you meant.

>>1851160
>kissless virgin anime faggot trying to justify his anime figurine printing degeneracy
>fails hard at it
Just go away, figurine faggot

>>1851267
the guy didnt actually read my argument and interpreted
>fdm is a jack-of-all-trades for beginners
as
>sla has less functionality

makes me wonder if I need to explain things three times and add a TL;DR for r eddit users

>>1851267
make me

>>1848004
How do I pack up my ender 3 for shipping? My parents threw away the original box so I cant use that. Should I just take it apart and cover all the parts in bubble wrap?

>>1851363
THICC... paint

What's the best material the print parts with for another 3d-printer? I have been building my own printers for a couple of years now but I have moved country and here it gets so hot that my motors can't keep all that cool and the plastic holding the motors slowly deforms. Right now it's not that big of an issue I just need to not print on warm days and always have spare parts.

>>1851365
Just fixate the moving parts and throw a blanket around it.
Put some cardboard between the bed and gantry to keep the nozzle hitting the bed. Make sure it doesn't move around transit and nothing heavy falls or placed on it.

>>1851377
petg fan ducts are great but such a pain to print right
I still use PLA mounts and fixtures for stiffness, but petg is ideal if you can make spare parts consistently

>>1851377
You want Greentec Pro. Prints as easy as PLA, gets thermally stable up to 160°C

>>1851384
That's great, it can get around 45 degrees here and the motors go to 60 or higher because of it.

>>1851383
Isn't petg more flexible?

>>1851261
>there is no "silicone spray" coating that's not lube
>posts silicone lube

>>1851377
id go for asa
there are better options but more expensive and overkill for that stuff

>>1851401
I wouldn't. It warps and is just as bad as ABS was minus the thick smell.
There are better options for indoor parts use now that also print more easily and won't warp and crack from just looking at it.

>>1851390
its the stiffest you can get other than PC and PLA. Specialty PLA for high temps might also work.

>>1851433
oops forgot link
https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4360/11/7/1220/htm

>>1850577
getting less than 50 with wifi on might be do able. realistically you get around 50 with wifi on. with wifi and bt turned off, icoplus123, rtpreempt i get a stable 30 with a few glxgears running. in reguards to pocketbagel, all the io are broken out, on mine i just have a usb hub for wifiand you could porbably ass audio to one of the analog pins, or use digital and get audio from hdmi, which has all its pins broken out. other boards? A few of the orangePi boards have allwinner h2/h3 have some kind of accessable cores in them. Personally, i dont think you can get 15us with a pi and wifi. between the sdcard, the wifi, and the ThreadX blob

been racking my brain for a week trying to solve this. randomly get these under extrusions at the start of the layer(z seam). raising flow rate by 2% helps but makes me lose dimmensional accuracy which I need. Things ive tried: temp 180-220(volcano clone)
retraction 0.1-2
speed 125mm/s - 40mm/s
coasting,wiping,combing on/off
outerwalls first
direct drive, filament path is clear, no clicking of extruder skipping

>>1851433
I might also sla print a couple of smaller motor mounts in siraya blu since it's a thermal harder.

>>1850946
>I've made plenty a sex toy with the stuff.
pics or it didn't happen

>>1851492
you cant post it here, look up jellyfish in the archives

>>1851436
Prime the nozzle after retractions

>>1851267
I'm not even the same anon, wtf? I also think the guy who keeps spamming his figurines is a fag

>>1851334
>interpreted fdm is a jack-of-all-trades for beginners as sla has less functionality
Are you serious? That's what was written in >>1850909
>anyone who has an opinion I disagree with is from reddit
oh boy, here we go again

>>1851519
>functions as a general purpuse machine
and
>less functionality
is a misinterpretation retard

Pre-last layer of raft, it used to look better pre-extruder change and I can hear the below plastic creak when it prints. Am I too high or just fucking retarded?

>>1851542
its a raft, as long as it sticks the first layer is fine
just make sure the final dense layer and print extrudes correctly
is it geared? you need to adjust the esteps to the gear ratio and adjust flow

>>1851542
Did you calibrate your e-steps for your new extruder?

>>1851543
It don't stick to bed which is my problem

>>1851553
Do I really need to recallib my extruder for a new hot...yeah, I replaced the hotend. I'm dumb. Sorry.

3rd print custom bash of models, leatherman is original. how am I doing 3dpg?

>>1851572
Looks like you have issues with retraction and stringing, but that's nothing you didn't know already, probably. Neat, though.

>>1851384
Careful getting it off the bed. Just finished a spool. In the process it destroyed my glass bed, I've moved to a genuine flexplate and it still sticks like a motherfucker if you have supports. I've had to sand away greentec pro leftover from little bits of tree support that would not fucking come off twice. I leveled it properly with a card, which is high for normal PLA

>>1851114
What the absolute fuck is wrong with the bases lmao
Are you too stupid to print a 3d circle?

>>1851587
I originally thought it was some really shitty SLA layers but its probably FDM printed bases painted with primer... without sanding... and look like absolute garbage.
and it reminds me why the SLAfaggot hates FDM; because he cant print

>>1849052
I can touch them and know if it's a 2.5 or a 3 instantly.

>>1851011
It's all about that dimensional accuracy. Stupid nice smooth holes etc. I love it for that.

>>1851595
That picture gave me angina pectorus

>>1851071
How do you stop shrinkage/warping though? Every time I've tried to break up resin prints there's inevitably at least one piece that doesn't fit correctly.

>>1851716
Please stop making me want to buy one, thanks ;)

>>1851737
>shrinkage/warping
Get better quality resin or cure it better. If you over-post-cure your parts you'll get shrinkage, same with generic resin formulas which are just meant to print pretty parts instead of things that are dimensionally accurate.

(and in the case you haven't already, check your printer's calibration is good)

>>1851765
What resins would you recommend?

>>1851773
I've had pretty okay results with ELEGOO's Grey resin; it still warps a little but it's better than most. The Red is comparable. Despite the smell, Anycubic's default green resin is great, honestly.

Anything you can get from Formlabs is worth the cost. Their Clear resin is fantastic.

>>1851781
How well does SLA handle overhangs / floating stuff that requries supports?

>>1851785
Depends on how deep it is. You're exponentially more likely to get warping/deformities the steeper the unsupported part is, and if you have anything floating, it'll either bork the print or you'll have a flat spot until that area reconnects to the rest of the print. ~1mm sheer 90deg overhangs can be tolerable, 2mm is really pushing it but if you've got something like the Form 3 it's "doable".

Sup guys, I've been absent for a while but I've been doing alot of prototyping printing parts at work recently and I couldnt help but notice when I went to make a purchase order, what the heck is going on the with the PLA supply? Too much demand and not enough supply obv, but what is your guys go to PLA that is in supply? I used to use polymaker 1.75mm but it looks like its gone on amazon.

>>1852002
>what the heck is going on the with the PLA supply
COVID-19 caused people to panic buy PLA and print fucktons of arguably-unusable PPE, and demand skyrocketed. Supply still hasn't recovered. Some people are saying it's because suppliers are introducing artificial scarcity, others point the finger at some Russian railway no longer in service, and yet another source says something about the raw feedstock for PLA being in limited supply apparently.

>what is your go to PLA
Hatchbox, if you can grab it. If there's a "buy" button (and not just "out of stock" with no option to purchase), you can still order it - I got a roll each of white and black PLA recently, and they took ~1 week and ~2.5 weeks to arrive, respectively, so it's not as bad as it was before (month+ lead time).

>>1848004
Stupid question but is there a way to change the way my printer orders the files on the sd card. Right now its ordered so that the oldest file is on top and I have to scroll for what feels like days to get to the bottom most recent file I want to print. I have a wanhao i3 if that helps.

>>1852054
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M034.html
you might need to enable/flash the firmware feature, and you should use that small amount of firmware storage conservatively, but the feature is there.

>>1851781
What formlabs resin were you able to print on a MSLA printer?

>>1852099
I use the Form 3. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to print their resin on an MSLA printer but you'll need to figure out exposure times for yourself, I'm not sure if any (public) documents exist.

>>1851363
is it standard tabletop 2.8cm? Would you recommend getting a 3d printer for making lewd miniatures for tabletop/action figures/statues?

>>1852165
Considering a 3d printer is the price of two high quality(or ~10 games workshop models) models( IDC about paint, my liru shrine has already been posted years ago), you'd be fine with SLA for small models like that. My best big FFF models I've made uses keyed parts and only the stand and a leg probably could be split again to be printed in SLA.
If you don't care about time, learn to thin your paints, and don't care about tools or anything useful, SLA would work and would be price effective.
There's also a cost for commissions or buying models; but that's what game ripping and blender is for.

Got my first 3d printer (ender 3), printed out the benchy and although I am mostly happy with the results, I have these protrusions on one side of the print.

Are these the seams? Any way to conceal them, other than using the sharpest corner/random placement?
They are also not sticking out, but look more like tiny crevices, which makes sanding them not that easy.

>>1852235
Lower your flowrate a little.
Those are the seams, but there's too much material oozing out aswell.

New Thread >>1852286

>>1850178
your track design is garbage

>>1850647
what about the beaglebone green wireless?
can I SSH in via a single cable?