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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 1.79 MB, 4032x2268, 20200516_161522.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1821955 No.1821955 [Reply] [Original]

Got a free air conditioner but the plug looks like this. Fixable?

>> No.1821961

Is it possible to open it? If that's the case, just shorten the cable.

>> No.1821962

>>1821955
I dont know how important the shielding is for that specific A/C but you can always try and open it up and see where the cord and conductors attach on the inside then just replace it with a new piece of SO or SJ cord and a new cord cap on the other end

>> No.1821969

>>1821955
Put it back Jarone.

>> No.1821970
File: 1.69 MB, 4032x2268, 20200516_162347.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1821970

I dont know a think about elctrical stuff. Just opened it up and looks like this. Im assuming i can just buy a new cable at lowes and attach it?

>> No.1821981

>>1821970
I wouldnt recommend it if you dont know anything about "electrical stuff". The wires you posted a pic of are the ground wires.

>> No.1821988

>>1821955
Hell yeah, just rip out this cable and replace it with new one. You can omit ground and GFCI

>> No.1822030

>>1821988
You might as well take a bath with it

>> No.1822148

>>1822030
Yeah, why not? Water pipes are plastic in my shithole and bath is insulated.

>> No.1822379

>>1821955
They're a bitch to steal when they're plugged in eh Jamal?

>> No.1822686

>>1821981
no only one of those (the green wire) is the ground. for some odd reason the power cable is shielded.

>> No.1823802

>>1821955
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wh5gM8GM70
put a new cable on with one of these, if you actually care about your own safety get a multi meter and test your repair before plugging it in. air conditioners use a lot of amps, fire hazard if you fuck up

>> No.1824084

>>1822686
Both the wires in your pic are ground wires. The fact that you corrected that other anon SCREAMS that you should not do this repair yourself.

>> No.1824087

>>1824084
Two grounds on one circuit, but why?

>> No.1824139
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1824139

>>1824087

>> No.1824140

>>1824087
Just dont fuck with this machine. And stay the fuck out of your knife drawer, there are pointy things in there, ok?

>> No.1824229

>>1824087
It's an american tri plug likely. A circuit return and an extra ground for safety. Kinda important on a AC unit because they carry a lot of current.
You could snip that whole bundle where it's broke and put new terminal on opie. Your pic only shows the two grounds. You'd have to attach the other wire as well.

>> No.1824244

>>1824087
It's like that on most plugs. The one that's actually the electric "ground" (or "mass", depending on your language) goes to the "ground" of the electric network it's connected to. The other one connects the metal parts of the housing to actual ground, usually to the watermain the house is connected to or a stake driven into the ground. That one is just there for protection against electrocution, which is why it's called "safety contact" or "safety wire" in civilized countries (and not in the US, as I found out the last time this topic came up).

>> No.1825010

>>1824244
I believe it's called a nuetral in u.s.?

>> No.1825642

>>1825010
You better not be OP. What that guy is blabbering about (he seems pajeet and therefore a serious electrical injury risk) is mains grounding and chassis grounding (he's probably wrong since both grounding mount points have earth-ground symbols and not chassis ground symbols. but electrical engineers are retarded anyway and cant use symbols correctly). Neutral in the US, CAN AND WILL KILL YOU. Neutral has nothing to do with ground (even though it does, but just dont fucking think about it that way or you'll fucking die or kill someone).

>> No.1825681

>>1825642
I was just saying what it's called anon. Always treat any wire like a live wire.

>> No.1825684
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1825684

>>1825681
You dumb mother fucker.

>> No.1825691

>>1825684
Okay i guess the the vertical "ground" is called the nuetral. And yhea, they're all important.

>> No.1825692
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1825692

>>1825691
I mean, i would call the nuetral a "return" and the round prong a safety ground personally. Though i don't know if that makes sence to anyone else.

>> No.1825703
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1825703

>>1825691
>vertical "ground" is called the nuetral.
Ignoring spelling. You're still the biggest fucking retard on the fucking planet

>> No.1825711

>>1825703
Yes, please learn me on household wiring.

>> No.1825876

>>1824084
not if he plugs them in to a outlet in an older house or one that the panel is wired to an old standard.

>> No.1825879

>>1825691
>vertical
?

>> No.1825881

>>1825692
There are three: an ungrounded conductor, grounded conductor, and grounding conductor.

>> No.1825903

>>1822148
Plastic for water? Aint that shit gonna crack?

>> No.1826006

>>1824084

What's the difference between green and green w/ stripe?

>> No.1826009

>>1821955
My guess from how that looks is that someone replaced the original cord with that and stripped it like a mongoloid. The original plug wouldn't have had the shielding/additional ground. It probably will work fine as/is, but if you really feel the need to fix it just open the case, take the plug wires off and shorten them, then reinstall it. Or just wrap that in electrical tape if it bothers you. It doesn't look shorted or dangerous, and besides that's why you have breakers right? Quit being a pussy and plug it in.

>> No.1826095

>>1826006
Like I said earlier, electrical engineers are fucking retards, they're the dumbest discipline of engineering and the entirety of their accomplishments are carried by just a VERY small group of EE's who probably never even went to EE college.

That being said, the wire colors mean nothing when they're inside the machine, they just TYPICALLY mean something. Both those wires are grounding wires, one is probably the mains ground and the other is probably a chassis ground. There are retards in chat (probably veteran EE's with 20 years of work) confusing the neutral with the ground in one of the pictures above, and this is further confused because what i suspect are EE's (maybe from india) are calling the neutral (which carries current and WILL kill you) "vertical ground" etc. In this context, it will confuse the moron OP into thinking he should attach the neutral wire to the chassis ground which depending on other possible mistakes will lead to the breaker flipping, the destruction of the machine, or his untimely death.

>> No.1826113

>>1826006
A stripe indicates that the installer is trying to differentiate the striped wire from the solid color wire.

>> No.1826117

>>1826095
Do...
Do people think the neutral doesn't carry current?
How does anyone think that any conductor isn't there to conduct?

>>1826113
Ah, yes, very useful. I'm glad we've standardized the meanings of these things.

>> No.1826232

>>1826117
>Do people think the neutral doesn't carry current?
people are aware, but they get themselves in dangerous situations because it's not the "hot" wire, as they understand. Which is what's happening in this thread.

>> No.1826346

>>1825879
Poorly worded. Meaning the flat prong that is ground (nuetral) not the round one.
>>1825881
>all wires are conductors
yhea got it but they have thier own terms right?
>>1826095
>it will confuse the moron OP into thinking he should attach the neutral wire to the chassis ground which depending on other possible mistakes will lead to the breaker flipping, the destruction of the machine, or his untimely death.
I don't get why you are flipping out, the other poster was just saying what the different wires are for and is correct. A simple
>yes but be careful you attach the wires to where they should go and not where they should not go and understand nuetrals and grounds can have current as well
would suffice you planctaroon

>> No.1826395

>>1826346
You see anons? This guy is probably an electrical engineer of 30 years and has no idea what the fuck he's doing. While the neutral wire does have its own path to ground, referring to the neutral as a "ground" of any kind around laymen (vertical or whatever) will mislead OP to possibly wire up the neutral to a chassis ground, like in the picture he posted where anons were already making that mistake in the comments. This leads to a tripped breaker, destroyed machine, or death depending on other mistakes made. He is completely oblivious to the reality of the situation, because he hides behind being "technically" correct.

>> No.1826552

>>1826395
You sound like one of those guys who comments on a YT video of someone cutting a tree down that they're completely doing it wrong because they weren't wearing safety glasses.

>> No.1826556
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1826556

>>1826395

>> No.1826577
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1826577

>>1824140
>>1824087
>>1824084
this is why I come to /diy/

>> No.1826621

>>1824244
>not in the US
The US has had an equipment grounding conductor in homes for about 50 years.

>> No.1826722
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1826722

>>1826552
>telling someone to not hook up a current carrying wire to chassis ground is the same as telling someone to wear eye protection.

>> No.1826724

>>1826095
>electrical engineers are fucking retards
Did an HVAC PM for an EE once (he and his wife were both EE). Got called back at 10pm, I cleaned it and now it didn't work. Thermostat was blank when I got there, removed the cover to see new batteries installed with one in backwards. Showed it to him and flipped battery in front of him, what do you know? It worked. He actually paid me for the call.

>neutral (which carries current and WILL kill you)
No it doesn't. Neutrals in residential boxes are tied to a buss bar in the panel which is also tied to the ground. Unless you fucked something up the neutral shouldn't ever have current.

>> No.1826736

>>1826552
The guy you're defending is some pajeet that doesnt know USA has grounded power cables.

>> No.1826746

>>1825903
all new residential water pipes are PVC in america , new ones will outlast your kids

>> No.1826752

>>1826724
>In this context, it will confuse the moron OP into thinking he should attach the neutral wire to the chassis ground which DEPENDING ON OTHER POSSIBLE MISTAKES will lead to the breaker flipping, the destruction of the machine, or his untimely death.
Above is what i typed, and below is what you typed.
>Unless you fucked something up the neutral shouldn't ever have current.
We agree that it would take more than one fuckup to cause a major issue due to the simple nature of mains grounding. Unfortunately people die, probably every day, because fucking up one thing usually leads to another. Also, while the neutral wire is not a current SOURCE, it absolutely carries current in normal operation, and can kill you.

Scenario: OP is told neutral is "vertical ground" by pajeet (technically correct for the experienced, but a deadly mistake for the layman), OP also has typed "why would a circuit need 2 grounds?" meaning he might only attach 1 "ground", OP selects "vertical ground" (in this case, the neutral) as his 1 ground and mounts this to the chassis ground. The entire machine and its surface is now a live wire. If there is a computer or any other appliance/light/junction-box nearby that uses a chassis ground and he touches both at the same time OP is now the direct path to ground and depending on how conductive OP is he is either dead or shitting his pants.

>> No.1826817
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1826817

I thought asking here would be better than making HVAC thread.
I have window AC (TOSOT) that's not cooling properly, it would start normally then after 5 to 10 minutes the compressor would shut off, also before that is here the compressor make a distinct noise as if struggling, and the surge protector device show a drop in voltage.
Other ACs on the same electrical line function normally.
I thought the thermostat was the issue, but even after bypassing it, the issue remained.
Anny idea what's causing it?

>> No.1826824

>>1826817
get an amp meter like a kill-a-watt if it's pulling more than it's rated amperage there is a good chance one of the motor start/motor run capacitors may be going bad. you can find replacements for less than $10 if you look hard enough.

>> No.1826828

>>1826817
Could be lots of shit. First thing to check is if there is enough refrigerant, a leak could overwork the compressor since it would be just freewheeling on air.

>> No.1826834

>>1826824
Will do, I think I have multimeter somewhere.
To my knowledge this particular AC share a capacitor with the compressor and the fan.
How would a bad capacitor cause this issue? I thought it's only needed for starting the AC.
>>1826828
Ok, assuming there is no leak what other thing should I look for?

>> No.1826836

>>1826834
>Ok, assuming there is no leak what other thing should I look for?
if you can reach it, try spinning the motor by hand, it should be easy. otherwise it might be damaged bearing etc.

>> No.1826862

>>1826836
>spinning the motor
You mean the fan? It's spinning.

>> No.1826877

>>1826862
Sure if it's somehow connected directly to what drives the compressor. I dont know what the fuck the machine is or if it's a turbine or piston compressor. All i know is that it sounds like something is overworking and going into shutdown.

>> No.1826878

>>1826877
I'm pretty sure it's turbine compressor.
The fans, inner and outer doesn't seem to be affected by this.
How likely is the electrical grid fault?

>> No.1826913

>>1821955

How old is the AC. You may have to get it recharged.

>> No.1826966

>>1826878
>How likely is the electrical grid fault?
I'd have to actually look at it. Your description made it sound like a mechanical issue. As far as electronics go (after checking if compressor spins easily) I'd check the start relay for the compressor THEN any capacitor banks it may have. Relays fail much more often than capacitors.

>> No.1826986

>>1826878
>the electrical grid fault?
How is the grid responsible for ruining the power cable while tearing an AC unit out of your neighbor’s window?

>> No.1827066

green- mouth
black- right eye
white- left eye

just cut out bad section and either learn to wire a plug or stick partially freshly cut then stripped wires into holes above. Also check hertz, 50/60 usually work together.

>> No.1827183

>>1826913
4 years I think.
>>1826966
Won't power issues cause something like that?
>>1826986
I'm not OP, Anon.

>> No.1827372

>>1821955
So you peel back the white covering, trim the wires, peel back and pair the wires to the correct colors, then put the copper together so they touch and wrap with electrical tape. Easy fix. Takes 15 minutes and can be done with literally just a knife and tape.

>> No.1827378

>>1821955
Just wrap some electric tape around it anon ok

>> No.1827392
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1827392

>>1827372
Here you go OP, I made you a guide.

>> No.1827396

>>1827392
or just wrap electric tape around it

>> No.1827399

>>1827396
It's not working since the wire is broken anon.
You have to repair the wires and THEN add electrical tape.

>> No.1827409

>>1826817
Fuck, lots of probable issues.
Drop in voltage makes it sound electrical.
Compressor noises could mean it's about to fail for a couple different possible reasons.

Buuuuuuuuuuuut, since you said it runs for a couple minutes it might be the expansion device isn't letting refrigerant through. That would choke up the compressor and possibly trip a electrical safety which explains the drop in voltage. That's my bet.

>> No.1827424

>>1827399
easy fix cut back an rewire , as some fag said above then

>> No.1827492

>>1827409
Maybe you're into something.
How would I check/fix this?

>> No.1827530

>>1827183
>Won't power issues cause something like that?
He said the machine functions normally for 5-10 min and that other machines on the grid are unaffected. This indicates an internal machine problem, and not a "grid" problem. Of course I havent seen the machine myself so it could be that he is mis-describing the problem.

>> No.1827536
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1827536

>>1827392
>trying to kill OP and his neighbors
I have no problem killing OP. but for all i know he lives in an apartment my family owns, and i'd be sad to see it burn down.

OP you HAVE to use at least the correct wire nuts if you decide to cut the wires (but remember that i forbade you from touching this machine because you're a fucking brain dead retard). If you do it like the retard on "fixinwires.png" then it's posible the wires will arc and start a fire. Talk to a proper hardware store and get the CORRECT wire gauge nut. But remember, you are retarded, so dont do this.

>> No.1827586

>>1827492
Fuck, checking the expansion is the most annoying ass job with refrigerant. It's pretty much a guess honestly. When nothing else is the problem, it's the TEV, and if it's not the TEV, you missed something. You could hook up a pressure gauge to the receiving end of the compressor to make sure you have refrigerant flowing into it.

>> No.1827589

>>1827536
It's just a frayed wire, chill out. I had a laptop charger that I did the same trick with and it lasted another year before the tape wore off and I bought a new one.

>> No.1827724
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1827724

>>1827589

>> No.1828034

>>1827724
Please explain to the class how trimming and rewiring is retarded anon. So long as the tape is rated properly it's the same as the rubber sheath that is normally around the wire.

It's the easiest five minute fix possible, yeah if you want to be professional about it, you can use crimp connectors, but why? It's a window shaker, it plugs into a wall outlet, it's not like it's internal wiring.

>> No.1828200
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1828200

>>1828034
>Please explain to the class
Why is it so easy to see the fucking retards.

The "fixinwires.png" instructs to just overlap the wires and tape them together, this OBVIOUSLY shows that the person who made the image is just some stupid kid that hasn't done any work beyond low wattage breadboard shit. This is a mains voltage appliance with an internal power supply (as opposed to things like laptops where the power transformer is outside). That means the wire carries the full mains wattage. If you follow "fixinwires.png" you are just laying wires next to eachother and taping it up. This encourages single point contact with the wires, which leads to a high resist connection at best, and arcing at worst. Even at the "low" 120v USA mains, this arc is enough to punch a hole right through metal, and will absolutely burn your house down. And all this is ignoring the OBVIOUS fact that since he's using an AC, he's from an area that gets hot. So if you dont twist the wires together, you are depending on the stickyness of the tape to prevent the wire from slipping off, even on a hot day. If it were to slip off (like maybe someone bumps the wire or pulls on it on a hot day, or the tape just gets old and loses its stickyness) you now have a live wire with exposed contacts just laying around to start a fire or just kill someone outright.

Long story short, you're a drooling retard.