/diy/ - Do It Yourself

How do I stop blobbing on sharp corners with PETG? Using prusaslicer. I vaguely remember a setting for coasting or something, but even in cura I don't remember an option for just coasting on corners only, and in prusaslicer I can't see coasting at all.

Pretty pleased with how my Muji pen holder came out ;^)

>>1811778
Where's everyone buying their Ender 3? Official Creality site? Amazon? Aliexpress?

is it over extrusion ?

>>1811857
wtf
try it again with 90% flow/extrusion rate. That model is quick to print

what nozzle diameter are you using?

>>1811866
0.4mm
printing a new rn

>>1811778
Just put it together and it seems to work fine!

At some point I'm going to want an enclosure, and the IKEA Lack seems practical and esthetic enough. But I've heard a lot of people have issues with mounting the PSU on the outside. Does anyone here have a Lack enclosure with the PSU on the inside, and does that work well enough, or is it really that much better to mount it on the outside?

>>1811856
Amazon.de
I would never buy from Creality directly, nor on Ali or eBay or such, if they send you a lemon you're going to have a hell of a time returning it. Amazon.de follow my country's law on returns, which means they're obliged to repair or exchange it if breaks unreasonably quickly, and if I regret the sale within a month of receiving the product I can simply cancel and get my money back.

>>1811857
Looks much more like underextrusion and/or bad layer fusion. Increase print temperature and mess with the extrusion rate. Maybe decrease print speed.

Day 3, yay another functional print.

>>1811857
is your parts cooling fan on? I've never seen such ugly lines that weren't underneath a steep overhang

>>1811882
based SchuKo poster

>>1811857
i've changed extrusion multiplier, a little better. I guess i've fucked up with my setting trying to calibrate my printer kek

>>1811910
I see overextrusion and maybe z-axis ringing. What printer?

>>1811869
>a lot of people have issues with mounting the PSU on the outside
why in the world should this be an issue
jesus this hobby really is for the brainded

depending on how hot it will be in there, its a good idea to keep all electronics outside.
at 50°C components like caps age 100x as fast as at room temperature

>>1811912
Anet a6, tried to switch from Cura to PrusaSlicer. I'm printing a test print with my old Cura profile to check if everything is fine with my printer

>>1811918
>acrylic frame
I would try recalibrating your extrusion steps and go slower. Acrylic is just a shit material for a 3d printer desu

>>1811910
At what extrusion multiplier was that printed? Go 10-20% lower

>I guess i've fucked up with my setting trying to calibrate my printer kek

Install a clean version of cura and leave settings to standard, except speed and temp. Curas stock settings are pretty good these days.

Be carefull with printer calibration (steps etc.) only calibrate when you have a problem. Chances are that you fuck up the internal printer settings. Most printers come well enough calibrated from the factory.
Over and underextrustion can also be fixed in the slicer.

>>1811912
>maybe z-axis ringing.
don't think this causes the extrusion fuckup. The bottom looks quite clean ringing wise

>>1811920
>I would try recalibrating your extrusion steps and go slower. Acrylic is just a shit material for a 3d printer desu
yes and yes
I've ordered a Prusa mini and i'm waiting to receive it to switch the A6 into a AM6 (full metal) or recycle the part for classic cartesian/ultimaker clone idk i'll see
>>1811926
multiplier was 1 and E104.2 on the M503 command if i remember
I think my problem comes directly from the slicer profile, bare new. I guess i'll stay with Cura for that printer

>broken garage door gearbox
>replacement is ~$50, a bunch of people in reviews are complaining that it breaks in just the same way after not too long
Well this will be a fun part to make. It's deceptively a lot more simple than the injection molded version since I don't have to care about core/cavity and insert pulls direction. Also fuck mud daubers there were like 7 nests in the damn thing stuck to circuit board, wiring, housing, everywhere.

>>1811950
>Also fuck mud daubers there were like 7 nests in the damn thing stuck to circuit board, wiring, housing, everywhere.
What did you do about the spiders in stasis inside of them

alright so pic related is the print with my old cura profil, it works "fine"
but fun things happened :
above the "15" and the "10" i've noticed some shifting on Y axis, i've checked the belt tension while printing, saw it wasnt tight at all so I've tightened it (while printing). It did print "fine" until "60" my fan stopped working and at the end, when the printing did a G28, the belt on my Y axis just broke
today was a good day?

How's the Cetus 3D MK3 ? I don't want to wait 4 months for the prusa mini anymore

What kind of 3d printer should I buy if I want to make anime waifu figs

>>1812003
This is the best 3D printers can do nowadays? Guess I'm gonna hold off on getting one for a while longer..

>>1812004
Resin

>>1812008
Is this a shitpost or are you that stupid

>>1812010
Not sure what your point is but it literally looks like something my dog chewed. Imagine spending $1000+ just to make stuff like this

>>1812008
>>1812011
You must be really dumb, that's an Anet A6, plastic frame, 200 bucks directly from China

>>1812011
The guy literally just said he printed that on a $150 printer that he himself fucked up the settings on. I am being trolled.

>>1812008
no its just the best anon can do
of course it will look like shit with default settings

The way this knurling came out is making my dick hard.
What's the best way to improve the appearance of the interface between a part and its support material?

>>1812008
>Guess I'm gonna hold off on getting one for a while longer..
Yeah you really should.

SLA or FTM for printing working parts that are fairly durable?

>>1812062
The actual printing medium matters more than the technology.

>halfway through a two day print
>notice that the filament will run out in a couple of hours, the middle of the night
>hold a knife over lighter for a little bit, press end of the old filament and beginning of new filament against it and then against each other
>blow until it hardens
>cut down the edges as much as I dare since the join feels pretty fragile
I hope this works.

First prints on the new ender 3 pro looking great

>>1812091
Maybe consider clipping the filament as close to the extruder as you dare and manually feed it in as it gets eaten? Sure, you'd be left with that spare bit of filament but you could use it for something else and not risk screwing up a long print.

>>1812093
aaaaah I forgot about Android auto-correcting the rotation with the data associated to the image but not actually rotating it, shit fuck dick

>>1812093
>>1812095
Looking good! Remember to buy the thirty dollar bed spring upgrade.

can I 3d print an onahole

>>1812104
You can print a textrue for one and then make a silicone mold, ultimately it will be more expensive than just buying one

>>1812062
What is it for? Siraiya blu is apparently pretty strong and has good strength in any direction. But you might find something like nylon printed on FDM has greater strength along the layers

>>1812104
how rough do you like it?

>>1812091
What kind of printer nowadays doesn't support M600? Just load in the new filament and go to sleep, and use the old one for when you want to print a 2 hour knicknack, don't risk your two day print anon

noob here looking to buy

looking locally for a possible refurb or remanned

Is a geetech a10 compareable to a ender 3 /pro at all?

>>1812155
Prusa

>>1812155
Why would you want to get one of those refurbished or remanufactured? They're barely worth the effort to do that for, at that price point you wouldn't be able to turn a profit unless you were a third-worlder with that being your month's pay. At least if you get one new you'll know it's probably in decent condition and nobody's been fucking with the firmware or shorting parts and trying to pawn it off as "working".

You'd really have to pull out some convincing arguments for me to buy a cheap 3D printer secondhand.

>>1811778
Are there any out of the box printers that can print hardcore materials like glass reinforced nylon, zytel, etc?

>>1812099
$30? I paid $8, unless you're talking about something else. With $30 you can buy an aluminum extruder, better PTFE tubing, and better springs

>>1812169
>With $30 you can buy an aluminum extruder, better PTFE tubing, and better springs
twice over, shipped.

>>1812163
was told 140usd, 180 for 2 color upgrade
its from a local print shop that deals and runs a farm (maybe?)

just not sure if its an apples to oranges or what

Seems to be pretty under priced to all the azin sites. 90 day war locally and tech support if needed (but thats what i have anon for)

>>1812174
if it's a local shop's refurb, ask yourself and then why they're selling it and not putting it to work in their farm? is it unreliable? are the electronics on their last legs/will the PSU explode?
if it's a local enthusiast shop where he buys and repairs old printers, then that sounds like a p good deal and you at least have a place to go when it shits the bed.

>>1812155
>>1812160
prusa mini won't build/ship till august, I'm waiting on a cheap monoprice

Has anyone bought a large format resin printer like the Elegoo saturn or Epax x10? Any thoughts?

How bad would it be if I put my 3d prints in my home oven. Like is the oven going to permanently let off toxins into the food or something?

>>1812196
it'll be fine as long as you dont get drops of plastic all over your oven

burnt food is just as bad for you

>>1812177
Good. Ty

Is dual colors actually useful?

>>1812177
Why would the PSU, and how would the guy even know? I think you're being overly skeptical. Chinkshit printers just have no resale value.

>>1812203
just the most catastrophic point of failure other than thermal runaway
yes, I'm skeptical because it's still an expensiveish machine and it's a used chinese clone of a chinese machine. still, you can replace the electronics and you still have a similar frame and movement system and dual color is a pretty cool upgrade.
I'd get it, anything else would take forever to ship and at least you'd have someone you can call.

>>1811857
This is the best 3D printers can do nowadays? Guess I'm gonna hold off on getting one for a while longer...

>>1812266
This is a new copypasta now, isn't it.

installed a BMG clone on my ender 3 yesterday because the stock extruder broke and i had the BMG on hand for another project, but now i'm facing issues I never had with the stock one.
>print fails like 10 minutes in because the extruder starts clicking, failing to feed, despite only printing at 35mm/s (down from 45 on the stock E)
I recalibrated the e-steps-per-mm to 414, which appears to be correct, yet I'm getting symptoms that looks like underextrusion (wispy brims) while simultaneously seemingly pushing so much material that the stock hotend can't handle it.
>0.4mm nozzle
>stock hotend
>300mm cap tubing
>PLA @ 210
>35mm/s infill, 17.5 walls
any ideas? I have an e3d v6 I wanna install but since prints keep failing I can't even print appropriate mounts for it.

>>1812270
Bump it 10C to 220 and see if it does a print. If that doesn't work try looking at if the extruder is properly seated and that the gear is properly tightened. If that is all ok see if the tubing is all the way in the hotend and that the tube is cut EXACTLY flush.

Also try a cold pull and see if you get a cone shaped piece of PLA out of that. If you can't cold pull the PLA, check the tubing as mentioned previously, you'll need to heat the hotend do all of it as well.

>>1811787
Coasting is only for straight sections, not corners.

Cura's coasting setting is "coasting_enable".

>>1812151
Printers that idiots leave stock from China.

my printer is collecting dust since I've ran out of ideas on what to print, don't see how I could use it anymore, can anyone recommend something?

>>1812276
Storage containers. I like electronics parts drawers because people have made rather good ones.

>>1812273
removed the push-fit connector and nozzle and ran a piece of bowden tubing through the entire hotend assembly while hot and pushed this little slug out. Re-snugged the tube to the nozzle, so hopefully this was the only problem. Wish I checked this first before fucking with my print settings.

Anet A8, upgraded with aluminium frame and duet wifi, steppers and bed upgraded to 24v.

Should i keep the direct extruder or switch to bowden? I have an all aluminium carriage for bowden along with an aluminium mounted skinny inductive bed sensor. I have the standard printed upgrades in PLA and a fat bed sensor set up for the direct drive at the moment.

Mostly just having first layer issues which I think is my fat inductive sensor.

>>1812291
>different frame
>different controller
>different motors
>different bed
i don't know that you can still call this an anet a8
>Should i keep the direct extruder or switch to bowden?
do you want to print lots of flexibles? if so, go direct drive. if you want to print fast, go bowden.

>>1812287
Since you're on the stock hotend, get a better set of couplers. The ones the printer comes with is shit.

>>1812295
Thanks i'll swap to bowden.

How come there aren't any hotends that use a lever and lock to lock in the nozzle instead of a screw? Why pick the most annoying thing possible for a part that's ended to be replaced

>>1812304
Production cost is cheaper for a part used across several industries vs cost for a custom 3d printer only nozzle?

>>1812304
>>1812305
The way the nozzle is secured by heating the nozzle to 200C+ is to get the thing so it cannot back out on its own. You're looking at tolerances of less than 0.001mm in a fastner.

Plus the temperature requirements of up to 500C as well.

>>1812291
can you show a print to see the quality ?

>>1812094
>manually feed it in as it gets eaten?
If he's got a bowden setup, wouldn't it jam as it tries to push the new filament through the nozzle alongside the old filament? The filament left inside the bowden tube once clipped wouldn't get pushed through the nozzle since the new filament wouldn't be attached to it.

my extruder is going backwards, can i just change my extrusion steps to negative? its a titan

>>1812226
Shorted mosfet is the most catastrophic failure

>>1812169
Can you redpill me on all the ender 3 pro upgrades i should get? I bought ender 3 pro ~1 month ago (my group also bought x5 Prusa i3’s) to make hospital PPE. I’m hoping to upgrade the ender 3 pro, btw I already have the glass plate.

>>1812351
Reverse the connector or set marlin to go in reverse using the configure.h file.

>>1812359
Depends on what you're going to be doing. I'd get the springs and a better extruder just as a base line.

>>1812364
Thank you, I will get these two as a baseline. Admittedly I probably don’t need many upgrades (we are making face shields and eyeglasses) and lower resolution/quality print jobs work just fine. The engineer inside of me wants to see how far I cam maximize the Ender’s abilities.

>>1812367
Oh and capricorn tubing and better tube couplers.

I don't have my Ender yet, just curious. What flexibility is the maximum that a good bowden extruder can handle and what upgrades do I need for it?
I ordered the capricorn tube and couplers with the kit, so those are covered, also better bed springs and a metal extruder arm and body.

>>1812385
Oh, I meant printing TPU.

>>1812196
I'm assuming you're gonna be using some heat-resistant plastic? PLA softens around 60* (and melts around 150*C) so you're gonna get bits of plastic in your food if you do any kind of baking. Technically I guess it's not really toxic though. PETG melts at higher temps but it still softens around 70*C.
If you're using anything more exotic it's not really possible to tell you whether it'll be toxic without knowing what you're printing with.

>>1812274
So is there no good way to eliminate blobbing on corners? This can't be a rare problem

>>1812385
just print a direct drive conversion for when you're ready to fuck with that

>>1812391
Holy shit, I can do that?

>>1812385
>>1812391

I print TPU on a all stock Ender 3 perfectly fine. (K-Camel TPU off AliExpress)
Key is to print fucking slow, I mean no faster than 15 mm/s with a slightly bigger nozzle bed distance.
Crank the flow/extrusion rate up to 120% because the extruder teeth grab deeper into the TPU and therefore the effective transport dia is reduced)

Pic related TPU flexible phone case I made

>>1812390
I think I saw something for this the other day, let me check.

Here it is: https://youtu.be/Hvw3DrVAeTA

>>1812398
Is that just a single layer of black PLA/ABS or did you do something fancy?

>>1812403
Both the green and black are TPU, so it's entirely flexible.
The font is cut out in the green part and the black is a tpu block with the letters connected in the inside (not visible because covered by the green bit). The black font is 3mm thick or so.

The green bits inside the M, A and I are again printed and inserted in the black piece

>>1812390
What kind of blobing?
You can get rid of issues caused by jerk and acceleration by getting those values tuned properly.

I'm getting this on prints with larger layer heights. I've got 0.12mm tuned to a tee but this 0.28mm print comes out like this...

Does sunlu actually have 0.02mm tolerance?
Found a sealed roll from 3y ago and they still claimed that back then, but idk if I'd trust them. Don't have calipers accurate enough to check.

>>1812094
Also a good idea. Fortunately my splice worked fine.
>>1812151
I did enable M600 when I installed my 2209s, but I haven't been able to get it to work well. No matter what I do the printer always severely underextrudes on the layer after a filament change, even if I'm actually lifting the extruder lever and manually pressing filament through while the nozzle slowly moves back to the print.

>>1812091
I asked the 3D print technician at my uni about how he deals with when filament runs out. He said he just pauses the print and loads a new roll. There might be some retraction issues. But he says it usually works fine.

>>1812431
>0.02
Does not say anything without a dimensioning the roundness too. What matters if it is consistent.

>Don't have calipers accurate enough to check.
You can't really dimensionally measure this in a meaningful way with any device. You could do lengh vs weight or volume (sinking a defined length into a water tank and check the suppressed water)

An all this shit does not garantee anything regarding the next meter on the spool. So its a massive waste of time and nothing but internet 3D printing wank. Just adjust your flow when you have problems. If it's inconsistent switch the filament batch

>>1812196
Ovens usually have fairly high low-temps. So if you're unlucky the entire thing will just melt.

Something I did for a non 3D-print related project was to heat a pot of water on the stove (with a temperature meter to make sure it was the right temperature), take the thing that needed to be in a warm-ish temperature, put it in a thick plastic bag, and put it in the pot. I have no clue if it would work for a print. But worst case scenario you only ruin a pot, and not an entire oven.

>>1812437
Roundness doesnt matter
A oval pinched section has the same volume per centimeter as a round section.
Its all comming out of the same hole, deformations happen after the extrusion

>>1812440
>A oval pinched section has the same volume per centimeter as a round section

You are absolutely right, BUT a 3D printer feeds filament at its outer diameter. When you have an oval filament, extrusion would be very insonsistent because the extruder teeth grab at various effective diamenters to feed forward - even when the cross section surface area is consistent

What do they mean with 'silk' PLA?

Do you use thermal paste or anti-seize when you screw in an extruder nozzle? Or leave it just as metal-on-metal contact?

>>1812442
nope your logic is flawed.
only diameter responsible for extruded length is the gear. Take a car wheel for example. If youre driving 100km/h your still driving 100km/h if the rode is 3m wider.
The filament diameter doesnt matter. extruded length would be the same for a 1.75mm or for example 3mm
if there is slip, something fucked in the hotend
if the extruder eats itself deep into the plastic, tension is too high and you wear out the bearings

>>1812446
Straight metal on metal. Used thermal paste on a clapped out V6 Volcano once, that was a huge mess. Never again.

Generally how much of a fire hazard is the Ender 3 (Pro) and what should I do to mitigate the issue?

>>1812450
Not him, but when you grow up, become a big boy and go into engineering you will see how much effective diameter affects the extruding speed, not just 3D printers, but rolled products for example. It is something we, adult engineers have to measure, calculate and compensate for on the fly with the rolling stack.
Try to behave next time and be respectful of your superiors when they tell you something to learn.

Where can I buy 3D printers in the UK?
I'm not paying £276 for an Ender 3 pro from Amazon

>>1812454
>in the UK
You don't, just sit down and enjoy your Brexit.

>>1812451
How did it make a mess exactly? Did it just squeeze out or cause problems over time?

>>1812452
Call the fire department in advance and cross your fingers

>>1812459
Still in Europe m8, so I can benefit from not having to pay VAT if there are EU shops selling them for a reasonable price

>>1812460
Squeeze out, then became a nice layer of blackened gunk.

>>1812463
>Still in Europe m8
Haha, good luck with that. You don't need a 3D printer to work the fields

>>1812452
like every modern printer, almost zero unless you fuck with your setting really hard, like putting some retarded temps, making it behave as Sonic the fast boi, telling marlin that limits are for pussies, etc..

>>1812454
Got mine from some (probably fake) creality shop, no taxes or anything

>>1812437
If the diameter is +-0.02mm, doesn't that mean that the roundness is, worst case, +-0.04mm between perpendicular diameters?
>does not guarantee anything regarding the next meter
Both with volume tests and using calipers, if you wanted to verify the claim you'd use sampling. Assuming a mostly uniform manufacturing process (i.e. setting aside the possibility that they gave you half a spool with great tolerances and then started fucking up on the other half for no reason), there's probably some fixed number of samples you can take to get very high confidence results for any random point on the spool.
The consistency assumption might not hold between spools which could be from drastically separated batches, but if you do this for several spools and it's always great, again you can have confidence that their spools are consistent. Until and unless they change something about their manufacturing which would invalidate earlier samples, I guess. But this is how you would go about verifying their claims - a bit annoying but gives tangible confidence for reasonable effort, no need to e.g. unwrap an entire spool to measure its volume or anything.

>cr10 hotend fully clocked
>bitch to disassemble
really should throw this in the garbage and get a v6

>>1812467
I won't be working the fields, my job is Brexitproof
>>1812472
Got a link? What country did it come from?

>>1812484
v6s are shit to disassemble too

>>1812487
at least it has a flange i can leave on and doesnt take 3 heatup cycles to get all parts out

>>1812484
v6's always seem so hit or miss. They're great for some, but useless for others. I don't see the need in one of you're not printing polycarb, capricorn tubing can handle 260-270. But if you were printing polycarb, you'd also need an enclosure, which I would not be fucked building for a cr-10. Maybe a prusa, as I don't trust chinese printers at 110C+ inside an enclosure, but the abs parts would soften at that temp anyway.

>>1812443
it's what comes with the ender 3. if you've felt it, you know why it's called silk. I can't think of anything readily available that's made from that type of plastic, but I fucking hate it, I hate touching it. I also hate touching cornstarch so maybe it's just muh autism

>>1812454
bad timing, man.

>>1812434
purge block

>>1812503
>bad timing, man.
I suppose every cunt is buying them to make PPE right now huh? I want to print nerf guns and other silly shit

>>1812506
That to a lesser extent, but just the fucker with shipping lanes and manufacturing.

>>1812477
>If the diameter is +-0.02mm, doesn't that mean that the roundness is, worst case, +-0.04mm between perpendicular diameters?

Only when measured between two points, but that does not give information regarding the overall shape of the object. Given just a diameter perimeter it is considered a two point dimension ("Zweipunktmaß") meaning you can check it anywhere you want once and you are done with the measurment.
To gather the diameter of an object you need to apply a statistical mathematical model for various measurment points around the circumference. If you really want to go deep this model used to be the gaussian circle but EN ISO recently made the tschebycheff model mandatory.
This is why the ISO GPS measuring system should be applied in engineering, to describe shapes and not meaningless two-point dimensions.

This all boils down that you are not able to check a diameter in 0.02 tolerance with a fucking caliper or whatever two-point device you are using.
Stop wasting your time

>>1812453
Hello fellow adult engineer bro

>>1812493
there are teflon v6 too
im talking about the heatsink and heatbrake style

>>1812508
this. chinese manufacturing already grinds to a halt in Feb/March, corona + increased demand have fucked things even further

>>1812506
I didn't have any problems ordering from Amazon, got the Ender 3 Pro for 289 but in €. Looks like your economy really went to shit.
I personally would use that money to stock up on powdered soup, ramen and other long preserved food because it looks like your food supplies gone to shit as well. Expect hilariously high prices for low quality imported produce.

>>1812027
it lokos like absolute shit dude, them fucking jaggies like a ps1 game lmao

>>1812485
Sorry, seems like it's not the case anymore. It was a couple of years ago, I dug through my emails and found that it was creality3d.cn (which, right now, redirects to creality.com, and when you click on "Shop" redirects to "creality3dofficial.com", but when I ordered it was just on a single domain), and it seems they actually had stock in the UK, whereas now it doesn't look like it has this option.

>>1812493
Are there any hotends that use capricorn tubing? They claim their XS version can go up to 340C
https://www.captubes.com/specs.html

>>1812528
You can disassemble and replace the tube yourself. Don't need complete disassembly either, just take out the coupler and replace the tube. Be careful to cut it precisely perpendicular and the right size, incorrect fitting will induce seepage and clogging.
see here: https://youtu.be/Fb4XMbZ0iA4

>>1812523
Damn, I don't want to pay 20% VAT + the tip Royal Mail/Parcelforce demand
I was hoping there would be some random little 3D printing online store that would have them for closer to £200. Google gives me all those weird websites like that one you linked and they all seem shady

im trying to print a decorative dagger on an ender 3 but it gets wobbly at the tip because the material doesnt have time to cool before the next layer. i tried using lift head setting but that creates a ton of stringing. and if i have lift head disabled that also disables minimum layer time. i tried reducing temperature of the print from 200 to 185 and that doesnt change anything. any advice on that issue?

also i want to model and 3d print a fitted mask like pic related but i have no experience making my own designs. is there an easy way to go about doing something like that? not sure if this is the place to ask about designs or modeling but im not sure where to get help on it

>>1812541
Maybe, but if you pay through paypal or have a decent bank, you'll have protection. Mine's a genuine creality ender as far as I can tell, and has been working just fine.
Mind you price might be fucked anyway due to the drop in supply and spike in demand.

>>1812542
>also i want to model and 3d print a fitted mask
Best way would be to cast the face and sculpt it around the cast with clay. Later 3D scan the mask and repair/edit/make it printable.

But if you don't have access to all that shit and an expensive 3D scanner. What I would do (and have done, but the result was too large for my printer so never put the model to the test) is to find some random scanned face on the internet that's somewhat similar to the one you want should wear the mask. Measure the persons head and edit the scanned face to be somewhat accurate. Then model the mask around the face.

>>1812545
iPhones can do surprisingly good 3D scans, even the older ones without the 3D cameras. Sadly Androids don't have sophisticated software even for the 3D capable models.

>>1812454
Amazon.de?
Cheapest option is probably going to be aliexpress, but I wouldn't recommend it. They might send you an Anet or something and then refuse to issue a refund.
>>1812503
>purge block
I don't think that's it. When I use M600 the printer extrudes like 100mm before resuming the print, and that plastic goes through fine, but for some fucking reason the instant it resumes printing it underextrudes. Even if I'm purging manually (pushing filament through) as it resumes it still happens, literally even if I'm pushing filament through while it's already resumed. Maybe my M600 command is just haunted, I dunno.

>>1812554
Its about the same price as the UK site
That's also why I want to avoid dealing with Chinks. I'd rather buy from within the UK, if the price is right the EU

>>1812429
Hey me too but I haven't figured it out yet

>>1812540
It's for a wanhao di3, a really old one. Not sure what type of hotend it has but iirc it's compatible with the Micro Swiss hotend from around the same time

>>1812540
Never mind

https://www.captubes.com/safety.html

They suggest not doing it, at least for classrooms

>>1812565
Looks like the problem comes from outgassing that can harm pets, especially birds, and that outgassing mainly comes from the printed material, not the PTFE tube.

>>1812269
>new

What the fuck happened to Cura?
>install latest version
>asks me to choose a printer
>search for a custom option
>scroll bar disappears all the time
>scoll slow as fuck with the wheel
>click on something
>it crashes
>try again
>still find no custom option under the millions of printer models
>it crashes again

>>1812577
My list has Ultimaker models at the top and always opened (...) and then Custom, and then other manufacturers below that. Try checking at the top of the list, Custom and Ultimaker are the only options that aren't in alphabetical order.

>>1812545
Bah, neither of those are particularly necessary. Design around a head blank of roughly the correct size & shape, then tweak the print with heat (hot water) after it's finished.

Hey, I'm pretty new to 3D Printing
Recently got an Ender 3 Pro, and I've been noticing some ghosting and shifting on Y axis on my prints. I tried moving it off the table, and I also printed dampening feet somebody recommended, but as you can see on the picture, it only made it worse. I found some modifications to be made to the bed, but is there anything else I can try before I go and take stuff apart? I feel like filament spool on the top might be a part of it, cause I can definitely see the thing shake from time to time.

>>1812628
Have you adjusted the rollers properly on the X and Y carriage?

>>1812523
chinese gonna chinese, they need to sit on so many domains because of scam shops

>>1812542
just deal with the stringing. make sure the interface with your skin is flexible so you actually get a seal.

>>1812628
belt tension, print speed
those dampeners are for noise, they'll just introduce more ringing if the spool is causing trouble.

>>1812523
They ship from Czech Republic which is in the EU, sadly its out of stock

>>1812646
Does it count as a scam shop if they delivered as promised?

>>1812647
Amazon.de still has it in stock, seller listed as "Comgrow"
It just commonplace today for you guys to ask the germans to help out

>>1812652
Its €280 bro, I'd rather wait for it to come back in stock on that official site
Why are you so hellbent on starting an argument over politics?

>>1812654
>that official site
Mind you it's very likely not actually the official creality website.

>>1812656
As long as I get my printer and it works I don't care

>>1812654
https://www.3dprima.com/se/3d-skrivare/xyzprinting-da-vinci-nano/a-22547/
Here's one that's in stock with a eu seller.

>>1812656
this is 4chan anon, what do you expect
+ someone else here said it was 'better' to order from Amazon because of the whole return policy process organized by Amazon that can be a pita with chinese websites, you decide

>>1812660
i mean >>1812654

>>1812660
>>1812661
Just because its 4chan doesn't mean its ok to be inflammatory all the time. Is there any point in us shitting the thread up with a bunch of pointless shitflinging?

>>1812662
it's you who spread out his shit, let him poop in the corner of the thread and focus on what is interesting

>>1812666
It's okay, satan, I got what I wanted

>>1811856
While I agree with >>1811870 I got mine from the creality website, because it was the cheapest and the amazon resellers wanted quite some markup, and I had 0 issues. I ordered throught there website twice (one time the printer, one time some accessories) and both times everything arrived quickly, well packaged and without issues.

Are there any good multi material solutions that isn't multiple hotends yet?

>>1812713
Is it that hard to use google?

>>1812454
Creatality have a warehouse in the uk, when I bought my ender 3 from aliexpress, it arrived in 2 days.

The Maltese Falcon
14 hours
It's splitting but I love it.

>>1812744
>google
>REEEE BUY PRUSA I ONLY BUY PRUSA CAUSE FUCK CHINKS
>NO REEE BUY E3D SUPPORT THE UK ECONOMY
>MUH IDEX
>PALETTE SHITS ALL OVER PRUSA FUCK PRUSAJEW
Fuck off.

I made a battery cover for a network cable tester someone gave to me, also fuck triangle screw heads.

>>1812749
Is there a way to guarantee its coming from the UK?

3D printer go brrr

>>1812766
UK is greyed out, so maybe they don't have stock.
UK wasn't an option when I ordered mine, I chose germany, when I asked how it arrived so quickly they said they had just opened a warehouse here.
Its £211 for an ender 3 pro from the same store.
I'm just assuming its the official store, I don't have any proof.

>>1812773
is that creality3d.aliexpress.com? I'll have to keep an eye on it, thanks

>>1812777
Yeah thats them.

>>1812779
Looks like they have the regular ender 3 with a glass bed for about £180 from Germany with free delivery
If I have a glass bed I won't have to worry about it being warped right? And I read the prints pop off when it cools down (which was why I wanted the magnetic thing). Other than the brand power supply is there any other real difference?

>>1812780
My Ender didn't have a glass bed and the bed isn't noticeably warped (all aluminium beds are actually warped, it's unavoidable because metal expands when it warms and the edges and top will naturally be cooler). Printed just fine on the stock bed. Then I upgraded to the glass bed, and suddenly had a hell of a time getting prints to adhere.

Honestly, just buy the stock Ender. The stock bed works fine, and once it wears out, buy a magnetic steel sheet with PEI coating. https://www.3dprima.com/se/accessories/print-surface/pei-ultem/primacreator-flexplate-pei-235-x-235-mm/a-24100/

>>1812780
I'm not sure mines an early one, I did use a glass sheet for a while, but I eventually had problems getting prints to stick to it no matter how much I cleaned it so I just used the stock buildtak stuff.
But yeah once the glass hits around 40° you'll hear the print release.
The beds are usually raised up slightly at the corners where the bolts go through, the rest is flat.
I did an image search for blown ender 3 power supplies and couldn't find anything so they don't seem to be unreliable.

>>1812577
>>install latest version
Found your problem right here. I'm still on 3.6 because everything afterwards has been a downgrade.

>>1812780
Didn't you see? He wants it to come from UK to preserve le """"british"""" """"""workforce"""""" maymay
Just don't tell him it actually comes from china, sssh!

>>1812789
Or because if its broken when I get it its much easier and cheaper to send it back?

>>1812556
Have you done any mods?

>>1812429
>.12
>.28
I assume you're using steps of .4 because that's the size of a z step? Educate me, why does this matter? Don't printers use microsteps? I have ABL, doesn't that mean I'm automatically printing at +/- a few fractions of a mm all the time, so why does it still matter?

>>1812337
Nothing special. That's with wet filament and nozzle probably needs changing.

>>1812800
And apparently my phone's lens needs cleaning.

Any good fun stuff like Nerf guns and silly shit I can print you guys can recommend?
Any good tutorials on CAD etc too?

>>1812628
This is the best 3D printers can do nowadays? Guess I'm gonna hold off on getting one for a while longer...

>>1812806
Sculp mode in Blender is fairly intuitive and fun to play around in if you want to make more organic sculptural prints.
But get meshmixer as well. Fantastic software for repairing models and doing basic editing of models.

For more mechanical stuff I'd recommend Fusion. Because it's really easy, and just check YouTube for tutorials. There are a bunch. And you don't really need too much to get you started here. Just the basic tools and a basic understanding of how you're supposed to think when modelling stuff.

>>1812806
Disregard anyone recommending FreeCAD, useless shit.
Register for a free hobby license for Fusion 360, if you want a full CAD experience register a learner license for Solid Edge (there is option for non school, self learner license), look up tutorial videos on Youtube, Skillshare etc...

>>1812810
It was more mechanical stuff I wanted to do, like make little elastic band guns or silly shit like that

>>1812753
might be to cold idk

>>1812753
Looks like bad layer adhesion, adjust your extrusion width, extrusion rate and dial down the cooling fan a bit to give time for the new material to adhere to the previous layer.
Maybe use an enclosure if it is too cold.

Is craftcloud any good if I just need some cheap one-off thing printed? Or am I better off just having some random anon do it for me?

I do kinda want to get a 3D printer sooner or later but hard to justify the expense right at the moment.

>>1812799
Because if I do this it means less potential issues.
I too have ABL as well but its more about the lead screw than anything.

I'm trying to eliminate issues rather than just toy around.

>>1812806
https://lbry.tv/@Deterrence-Dispensed:2/PM422-Songbird-V3:4

>>1812833
Pretty sure just clicking that can land a lot of people in prison

What are the best settings for anet et4 on cura?

>>1812824
I justified the expense by it being an intro to a field not many people have experience in, and in the future we will rely more on making things at home instead of jumping to the store buying.
Also it is a lot of creative fun.

Is it ok to bend stuff around I make with PETG a bit

>>1812826
>less potential issues
What are the potential issues?

>>1812835
Maybe in Australia.

So the pastebin of filament is a little overwhelming for my noob.

I need a neutral color (black, white, gray?) that is a good price/value for just learning to print stuff

In usa. tanks3dbro

>>1812873
Filaments are basically all the same. If you're doing some really high-end printing you might invest a bit more in a specific brand famous for consistent diameter, or metal-fill PLAs, or plastics with better durability like PETG or nylon, but for the average guy who prints rubber band pistols off thingiverse or who prints and paints miniatures, PLA is going to be good enough for all scenarios and conveniently the easiest to use, and the difference between brands or the tiny flaws in chink brands makes no difference. Buy whatever is cheapest and you'll probably be good. Amazonbasics or Hatchbox are pretty cheap and available on Amazon, I'd suggest you start there.

>>1812902
There are a lot of specialty filaments from Europe that are harder to get in NA. Like high temp PLA that doesn't need annealing, more impact resistant and slightly softer PLAs, low warpage ABS, etc.

>>1812493
You don't need a particularly good enclosure to print polycarbonate, just something to stop the drafts and keep it reasonably warm. Haven't noticed any softening issues when printing it, only when I started printing nylon did I need to swap out my extruder body (and nothing else)

>>1812833
that is the shadiest fucking link I've seen in a long time on this site

How would one feed a roll of filament to a printer from outside an enclosure

>>1812813
NTAYRT but I'm seconding/thirding Fusion 360 as well, it's a solid program and good to learn on despite its quirks

>>1812998
Depends on how complex you want to go
>drill a 2mm hole
or
>make a plate with a passthrough/pneumatic connector and teflon tubing
are the two things I'd consider

>>1812986
>3dpg
>being unaware of detdisp
Why bother even having a printer?

>>1813005
this lmao
I'm printing a Luger model to get dialed in but once I've got that done I'm printing a Glock frame and I'm gonna get a mill vice for my drill press to make the frame rails.

>only have a few prints left to make for new printer
>old printer might be shitting the bed
uh oh!

>set seam position to back
>lines start in the back or in corners except for a dozen or so layers where they start in the front for no discernible reason
>don't even discover this until I notice the zits on the finished print
Why is there no way to visualize the Z-seam within Cura? Is there a plugin for it or something?
I can't manually inspect the path of every layer to make sure the nozzle is starting and stopping in the correct place every time.

I'm buying an Ender 3 Pro on Friday when I get paid and I barely know jack shit about 3D Printing. Aside from the OP, is there anywhere I can go to learn what I should know and do?

>>1813040
Watch youtube videos, print calibration and test prints and google anything that looks wrong. Buy a set of calipers.

>>1813040
YouTube videos. Check video reviews of the mashine to learn terminologies associated to the mashine. Watch different upgrade videos. Print videos. Really just anything you can come across.

>>1812295
How much faster is bowden compared to ddrive exactly? I thought that you could just use linear advance on a ddrive and print faster. Or am I wrong here?

>>1813102
just go remote direct drive and never look back

>>1812388
Printed tpu 95a just fine on a stock ender. I guess you could run into problems with ninjaflex and that kind. You just need to print a bit slower

>>1813041
>>1813079

So basically what I've been doing, good to know thanks guys.

>>1812970
>Like high temp PLA that doesn't need annealing, more impact resistant and slightly softer PLAs
As an EU resident I would like to know more about these specialty filaments. Please elaborate.

>>1811788
looks like a waste of plastic, fag.

>>1813140
Show us what you made, fag

>>1812998
Perhaps make a hole in the enclosure where you fit a ptfe tube that goes to the filament roll? Possibly make a mount for the tube near the roll so it stays stable.

>>1813142

go print some low poly Pikachus and try not to lose them up your ass.

I was considering building the Prusa Lack enclosure. But I don't want to mount any part of the printer on the outside to make it easy to take it out, if necessary.

What do you guys think of a mod where you have two inwards acrylic walls with cut outs for the PSU? So can you just slide the printer in, but the PSU is still on the outside.

And I hope you can decipher my sketch.

>>1812341
Shit works on printers like the CR-10. if your extruder is on the gantry just stand there and watch it until the filament is low enough to push the new end through the extruder.

>>1812841
>and in the future we will rely more on making things at home instead of jumping to the store buying
Doubtful, most people still don't care to do that, and mass producing still has marked advantages. Even gathering 3D printing capability in a large centralised place makes economic sense (e.g. more expertise so less effort spent on maintenance, printers will be running close to 24/7 so more value out of the investment for one, etc.), so maybe we'll have print shops/farms getting much cheaper and more widely used for custom stuff, but I doubt printers will ever be a household item for anyone except hobbyists.

>>1813012
What are you making, using what?

>>1813146
Someone's definitely made one of these, I saw it recently, but it's late and I can't pull it up at the moment. They had a little bit of ductwork to cool the PSU and electronics without interfering with the print, I think. Probably on Thingiverse or the Prusa repository, if you care to find it.

>>1813146
Wouldn't it be easier to just add some fans and flexible ventilation pipe/hose to PSU and electronics?
I think I did see people do that instead of throwing the electronics outside, just make an adapter that can attach to psu/electronics and make sure not to blow air on the print/lower temps too much. Flexible vent hoses/pipes are relatively cheap and you just need to drill a hole in acrylic/wood. I had to go for wooden walls of ikea lack table since acrylic for 4 sides would cost here over 100 eur.

>>1813144
Red baste and pilled

>>1813154
Alright! I'll look around.

>>1813156
It might work better. But I doubt it would be easier. I'd especially like to avoid adding any fans. It would be good to avoid any electrical components, to make less points of failure (and less effort). And since the PSU has air holes both on the side and back the air would come into the enclosure (blocking the back vents is probably a bad idea, unless you add a duct for them (more effort, and I'm lazy)), which I imagine might be an issue when printing more sensitive filaments.

>>1813152
I'm making the parts for a Hypercube Evolution
Printing with a Wanhao Duplicator i3

>>1813186
I take it does the same thing when just booting up the gcode file?

>>1813189
Yes, as a matter of fact, it does

>>1813192
First guess is a bad power supply, although you've probably figured that out too. Does the same happen when trying to heat the hotend?

>>1813164
Well as I said, I have wooden walls, it's kinda easier for me to drill a hole and just added printed parts/hoses for cooling of PSU/electronics and I have spare 12v psus and fans, that's the way I wanted to go instead of disassembling my 2 printers since I do carry them from time to time. Or make the lack enclosure possible to carry? Idk how it would fit a smaller car tho
I did make a lack enclosure but it's wobbly as hell, so instead I'll just drill the two lack tables onto existing wooden cabinet/drawer whish is made of full wood to reduce vibrations. I do plan on making a special vent with filters when printing CF or ABS and attach it to a window. Yes, it's more complicated, but just throwing it out there, if you needed ideas and have time and will to do something similar or even more ambitious.

>>1813195
Surprisingly no, but it will not let me select a temperature higher than 238
I suppose if it is a psu issue I could just finish the prints with the new psu and step down converter when that eventually comes

>>1813200
When you say not higher than 238, do you mean it shuts down at 238 or the firmware is locked at 238? But yeah, more than likely psu. If it's anything else unless you've found some others having this specific issue or someone else has dealt with it I don't think you'll find much advice here.

>>1813200
What about reslicing with a bed temperature of 0 and see if you can print that way.

>>1813120
Apparently it's not actually PLA but a more biodegradable material

https://www.extrudr.com/en/products/catalogue/?ignorechildren=1&material=106

>>1813204
Sorry, I mean it will go higher, but wont allow me to select anything higher, it does not shutdown >>1813207
I don't think it would work
I only have abs, with no part cooling fan so I might be sol until the psu for the HEvo arrives
Ah well, I'll just have to wait I suppose

>>1813208
Forgot to add, there's also a Greentec Pro with some better characteristics

>>1813186
>not building a voron

>>1813210
Just get a hair dryer and point it at it lmao ez

>>1813200
its guaranteed the psu shitting the bed
when the bed heats up it draws ~9A modulated, the hotend is fine because its just 1.6 on a 24v printer
want a ghetto fix?
turn the Voltage adjustor on the PSU down until you have 20v
This will get your bed current down by a lot
with a 220W bed your down to 160W, thats over a quarter less and maybe the psu can handle that. Heatup will take a lot longer and what suffers are your PID values, but im sure its enough to print something not pretty

>>1813216
Dropped the voltage but it smelled like it was burning in there or something so im not gonna mess with it anymore
I might look for a cheap psu on amazon or something and try that

>>1813200
You shouldn't push it higher, the wanhao hotend has a teflon tube iirc.

Looks like this little burnt friend might be the culprit

Unlike the missile, my extruder has no idea where it is. I made a new carriage for my anet A6, with a titan extruder, and now whenever I G29, my probe goes of the X side of the platform. other than the probe offset array is there something else I should have changed in the firmware. using Marlin 2.x

>>1813241
never push those plugs past 10A
if your printer does you should get an external switch mosfet or ssr

>tfw hotend replacement fan died after 1 day

I got some small dent in the bed of my ender 3 pro, I'm not sure how they appeared since I never used the chisel that came with my printer nor did my extruder touched my bed but it's there. Can this cause heating issues? And if so how do I fix those?

>>1813252
Reminds me of the guy that left a spanner under his bed of an ender 3 and tried to print.
>can this cause heating issues
Yes
>how to fix
If it's such a small area, perhaps just taking care and using some glue when printing in that area will be enough.

Why is CoreXY so good when it uses gigantic ass belts? I thought belts were bad for precision?

>>1812839
Nobody gives out there settings, they get all autistic about it.

What tools should I be using to smooth down or remove bumps on a model?

>>1813332
I'd give my profile(s) to anyone who asked, but I doubt it'd work perfectly for their setup anyway and I change several things on a per-model basis

>>1813356
hobby knife +sandpaper, fixing your retraction settings
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/blobs-and-zits/

>>1813356
This is why people like ABS, it's much easier to sand and finish compared to PLA. There's a reason why model kits are usually ABS or HIPS

>>1813306
Maybe they are not as bad as you think.
https://www.mdpi.com/2218-6581/7/4/75/pdf

>>1813389
You can't sand PLA, but it can be filed

How'd my bench turn out?

>>1813389
I thought you weren't supposed to use ABS since its toxic.

>>1813398
This is the best 3D printers can do nowadays? Guess I'm gonna hold off on getting one for a while longer.

>>1813402
It's not good to breath the fumes from printing, so you should vent it out a window. And you need an enclosure to keep it from warping. But if you can print it it's better and easier to work.

>>1813398
epic

>>1813402
30 minutes car ac on the highway is likely more toxic

>>1813397
>You can't sand PLA
Except you can. It's a pain in the ass to do so but it's possible

>>1813208
>prints like PLA
>thermally stable
>no warping
>temp resistance up to 160°C
This is an EU company? Did I sell my soul to manbearpig?

>>1813398
impressive the chimney held up

>>1813357
Hey you're pretty cool.
>>1812839
I found these if this helps out anyone drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1D9Hg6C6hwUdxvj9slEUOJnU3ZfJXXSXT?usp=sharing

>>1813398
OMG I have never seen anything more beautiful in my life

>>1813398
is this a new meme? print the worst possible benchy that still has recognizable features?

>>1813398
How does one achieve this level of integrity?

>>1813420
This actually sounds somewhat non-trivial, assuming editing the model isn't allowed and you actually want to go back to a functional printer once you're done.
Wait, Cura has like a "fuzzy skin" option or something IIRC. That should be banned as cheating as well.

>>1813426
bonus for gcode-only modifications and not changing the hardware setup in any way (belt tension, etc.)

>>1813426
>>1813251
count me in, i think i can do something fucked up

>>1813398
Easy, greatly worn out nozzle or 1.0 nozzle printing at 0.4 settings with larger layer heights

Is it worth installing Fusion360 onto an SSD?

>>1813460
No, the models will be highly susceptible to bit rot. You need rotational velocidensity to keep them in tact.

All i want is a utility that I can use to home, jog, and just generally send G-codes to my printer over USB.
First I tried Mattercontrol, which was nice, but due to its dependency on Mono Runtime, it won't run on most systems including Debian 8, 9, or 10.
I've been trying Pronterface, which came recommended, but that can't be installed due to wxPython's weird dependencies which can't be satisfied on any system I have.

Are there any alternatives that aren't so convoluted?

>>1813463
Just use Windows 10 like anyone else

>>1813462
Its ok I have my SSD on a motorised lazy susan to prevent any bitrot and electrical infetterence

>>1813464
how about no

>>1813463
Just use Void like anyone else

>>1813475
At least it's not systemd

>>1813463
octoprint (pip package) + https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/gcodebar/

>>1813405
This is what happens with poorly assembled/calibrated hardware/software.

Any tips on getting ABS to stick to bed that maxes out at 90c?
Glue stick didn't work.

>>1813538
What kind of bed surface do you have?

>>1813538
If you're using a glass bed pour a touch of acetone onto the bed and rub a failed print around so theres a thin layer of abs on the glass

>>1813550
Its a metal/aluminum bed with masking tape

>>1813550
Dont know how acetone will take on a metal bed but I could try

>>1813538
Gotta just go hotter. You can try ABS slurry

>>1813563
>Dont know how acetone will take on a metal bed but I could try
The idea is the acetone will melt the ABS and the slurry will cure onto the bed.

>>1813538
Have you tried using ASA instead of ABS? It is a direct substitute but it prints much easier.

>>1813418
those settings are the best
>thank you so much!!!!1!!!!!

>>1813332
its nothing personal....they just think they have something special that not any mortal man or woman can figure out.....but in all reality its like everyone else...no matter the machine

Are there any good DIY top XY designs for idex?

>>1813668
yes
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718914

>>1813677
I meant a complete printer

>>1813398
Genuinely impressed it printed completely and not failed.

>>1813398
i tried to right click and see what it look like all around. i have finally lost it

>>1813252
>ender 3 pro
you already lost
bad buy bro

Generally, all other things being equal, will a low infill density print have the same dimensions as a high density one? If not, how big a difference will changing densities make?

>>1813775
>same dimensions
Well... yes, you're only changing the density, not the dimensions.

>>1813776
Let me rephrase: Does infill density affect material contraction enough to affect the dimensions of a printed part?

>>1813781
It depends

>>1813785
Depends on the material and infill. PLA at 10 vs 15% isn't going to change much but nylon at 20 vs 75% is probably going to be significantly different if not printed in ideal conditions.

>>1813787
meant for
>>1813781

>>1813785
>>1813787
>>1813788
Thanks anon(s). I have a couple prints on deck that require high strength and tight tolerances, so I'll need to do my homework to not waste time and materials.

>>1813796
Feel free to run it past this thread when you get around to it, I don't think anyone will mind insulting your design and you might get some useful insight into it if you're lucky.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? this keeps happening

>>1813825
(pic upload failed)

Would moving an endstop from the print carriage to the printer frame mean I need to change anything in the firmware?

>>1813834
Only if the position at which it triggers is different.

>>1813834
If it still triggers in the same direction it should be fine without any firmware modification.

>>1813825
>>1813829
nozzle blockage it seems like

>>1813843
I don't think so a nozzle block would fuck everything, it only happens after 39mm of printing. I think it may be a software problem

>>1813853
maybe watch it next time and see if the extruder gear stops or starts clicking.

>>1813857
yes just started it again, an now it went wrong at 45mm, it started clicking and extruding less and less. how do I fix this?

>>1813863
>clicking
That's a blocked nozzle/hotend.

>>1813871
ok thx try No.3 with higher temp

>>1813875
Read this carefully, especially the extruder and hot end fix parts:
https://www.th3dstudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Help-guide-Creality-and-others-5-22-21091.pdf

>>1813863
heatcreap
guess your fan is shot

New Thread >>1813909

Geetech a20 out for delivery. Crossing my fingers