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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1812267 No.1812267 [Reply] [Original]

Oh shit I have to do stuff edition.

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1801315

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>Edge precision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-kgF0sJFno

>> No.1812299

>>1812267
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsSBKUMT5Ew

>> No.1812423

Anyone here made a gun? I'm in the process of making a shotgun rn

>> No.1812595

>>1812423
I'm trying to make brass forming dies, but information on it is very scares so I'm mostly just trying out random shit.

>> No.1812612

>>1812423
nope, trying to figure out how to set the jaws properly on my hydraulic lathe chuck

do I just use a scale to get them on the right notch or something?

>> No.1812613

I have a bunch of old drill bits, but they have some kind of tapered square attachment method. I have never seen such a kind of chuck, does anyone know what i am talking about?

>> No.1812621

>>1812613
Those are real old school, like pre-70s or even earlier. They go in manual brace drills

>> No.1812624

>>1812612
Just count them using your finger nails.

>> No.1812627

>>1812624
good idea

>> No.1812629

>$1,288.44 dollary-doos out of my pocket to get the tech out here to fix my fuck-up

getting real close to time to fill the coolant tank and run some programs

>> No.1812650

>>1812621
oh, neat. so i assume they are completely worthless and go directly in the trash

>> No.1812664

>>1812650
they’re actually quite valuable collectors items

>> No.1812804

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEsEfbASbI

huh who knew, apparently some locking drill chucks need to be turned back a click

maybe that's why my DeWalt drill chuck is so garbage

>> No.1812916

So to change work offset I type in Z0 and press "measure" soft key to use Z axis absolute value right?

How the hell do I use the tool eye? (tool setter arm thing)

>> No.1812918

>>1812916
Depends on the machine.

>> No.1812947

hmmm

I made some 5" diameter steel washers a while back, I wonder if I can use the 6" chuck on my sub-spindle to grab it off the bar (twist it maybe) to remove it instead of just letting it drop and then picking it out of the chip conveyor.

maybe make some jaws for it that extend like 3.5" or more with a recessed area to hold onto washers that are completed?

>> No.1812999

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOzOj7UC0HA

Edge precision tramming the B axis on his millturn.

>> No.1813000

>>1812423
As with most things, it's easier to modify an existing design.

You going to re-invent the wheel?

>> No.1813002

>>1813000
I would be happy making an existing design but the problem is the heat treatment. places you can send it won't touch your shit if it isn't serialized and I can't do it myself.

>> No.1813266

Do er collects last forever or should i buy some back up ones?

>> No.1813269

Holy shit i received the mesa 7I97 card today. (one day ill accidentally say masso) The guy just posted it yesterday.

The pressure is on now.

>> No.1813271

>>1813266
endmill breaks, screws up collet sometimes.

course you might be able to polish the dents out like robrenz does

>> No.1813368

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cIixGo0Nsg

CNC lathe'ing (minus live tool stuff)

>> No.1813399

>replace work light bulb
>bright flash and then never to glow again
>oh shit, it's supposed to be 24v instead of 12v bulb

>> No.1813469

>>1813000
Easy isn't fun

>> No.1813533

Welp diy , just had my fist spoopy lathe accident today.
Thankfully nothing broke but
>turning pieces in a schaublin 102
>usually use collets but this piece needs a chuck
>it's one of these screw on ones
>finish turning piece
>turn off motor
>7kg chuck unscrews and hovers in the air at 2800 for what felt like a full second
>took a bite at my tool
>fucking slammed againt the wall behind the lathe and jumped off it across the room
> about 40cm away from my face
I rate it a solid 6/10 spoop
Nowhere near as spoopy as a tablesaw kickback but still far more entertaining than the drill press running your work around.

>> No.1813535

>>1813533
Ah yeah, I've had that before. Was there a chip on the chuck thread? That was my problem.

>> No.1813536

>>1813533
yep that's a pretty big fuckup

the chink lathes that still have screw-on spindle noses have little clamps that keep it from un-screwing, I suggest you improvise some for yourself.

>> No.1813546
File: 170 KB, 1000x750, chink chuck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813546

>>1813536

>> No.1813565
File: 93 KB, 1353x761, 2EB12AA6-5425-40C5-B50E-4238B6F84331.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813565

>>1813535
>chip on the thread
Probably, i'll never know now.
It's not the first time i've used the chuck and that thing normally locks on really fucking tight so it really caught me by surprise.
I *knew* it could happen but I never thought it'd happen that easy.

>>1813536
There is no recess i can clamp anything to on these spindles. This is a smaller one but it's basically the same.

>> No.1813641

>>1813533

>2800 rpm
why so fast? shit just sounds scary on a manual lathe but I'm only a partially experienced noob. I usually don't go far above 1000 and that's for aluminum in a camlock 3 jaw or collet chuck

those screw on chucks are a right hand thread right? the spindle rotates ccw looking at it from the tailstock, transferring energy to the massive chuck, which has a lot of inertia/momentum at 2800 rpm.

I think what's probably happening is that then when you shut off the motor, the friction in the drive line makes the spindle
accelerate cw, braking pretty quickly, which unscrews from the chuck which is still spinning with big momentum ccw which overcomes the frictional forces of the spindle taper

>> No.1813905

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJSQDsERhD0

>> No.1813908

>>1813905
>mill so fast and so hard the material turns into lasers

>> No.1813927

Guys, I got an Emco Emcomat 7 lathe for literally €15, as in its weight in scrap.
Looks like those shitty chink lathes I see in Obi but the name doesn't resemble anything chinese and it is from the late 80s.
Is it a good one or should I just bring it directly to the scrap yard? It is 3 phase so I can't try it out right now, only have single phase line.

>> No.1813928

>>1813927
Post pictures. I really don't think that is anything like chink lathes going by what I found on google images. Swap the motor for single phase, or better yet, buy a VFD. I doubt the motor is beyond 2kW.

>> No.1813930

>>1813927
Unless its completely clapped out or there is something really wrong with it, its never bad to have something small laying around. Have it set up for a single operation or something.

>> No.1813931

>>1813928
>Post pictures
It is covered in graphite and my workshop is a mess, so no.
>>1813930
Cleaned up the bed a bit, moves smoothly, no scratches and blemishes. Motor and gears move smoothly by hand, no oil leaks. Looks like for 30 years it was used at less than 10 cm in front of the chuck and it is still good.
Might be a lucky find. I still have to test the motor, have to put a good chuck on it since it was set up to specialised turning graphite rods. Also needs that end bit with the spike thing that holds longer objects centered.
I'm new to machining BTW.

>> No.1813932

>>1813931
>Also needs that end bit with the spike thing that holds longer objects centered.
Thats the tailstock my friend.

>> No.1813933

>>1813932
Stockthing! Yes, thank you!

>> No.1814289

>>1813269
that was fast, ill be honest i dont know a whole lot about servo tuning and PID but ill leave some stuff here that you will probably need later
you wont have to buid linuxcnc from source(like it says when i google 7i97), the driver wasnt released until december officially but its updated now
https://github.com/LinuxCNC/mesaflash
mesaflash --device 7i97 --readhmid
thats probably the right command. you only really need mesaflash in your case, to verify the board is connected
https://forum.linuxcnc.org/media/kunena/attachments/481/7i97hal_2019-10-23.zip
thats a sample config for the 7i97, put that ina folder, in your linuxcnc configs folder, and thats what you load and edit and shit. you can make a new one from scratch/modify hm2_servo or use pnfcconf/stepconf and then modify it after, the important part for you will be the bottom of the ini file where it says in the
[HOSTMOT2]
DRIVER=hm2_eth board_ip="10.10.10.10"
BOARD=7i97
CONFIG="num_encoders=6 num_pwmgens=6"

the ini file is mainly what you will be configuring
the hal file is for when you add hardware and configure hardware signals, you might add a few things when you do your limits and estops, but you can also use it to do some pretty advanced shit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=10&v=C0Wz8vnFAQU&feature=emb_logo
and linux isnt too bad, just look up the cd command file system thing and using the terminal

>> No.1814554

>>1813266

they do crack / break eventually. as the other dude mentioned, you can marr them up pretty bad if you get tool breakage too

>> No.1814967

What the fuck is a pitch diameter? I understand what a thread pitch is, TPI, major diameter, minor diameter etc but what is a pitch diameter and what do pitch mics measure. I feel retarded

>> No.1814986
File: 30 KB, 768x327, image001-1-768x327.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1814986

>>1814967
Pitch is the distance from a point on the screw thread to a corresponding point on the next thread measured parallel to the axis. Pitch Diameter is the simple effective diameter of screw thread, approximately halfway between the major and minor diameters.

>> No.1814987

>>1814967
Distance between od and root of thread

>> No.1814989

>>1814986
Don't seem right

>> No.1814990

>>1814289
Im hoping i wont have to deal with PID, the thing has its own feedback loop.

Thanks for the information bits.

>> No.1815101

the coat hook at work pulled off the door and I'm trying to fix it. I made a bracket out of a strip of sheet metal that will hook over the top of the door, but I don't know how to mount the hook to it. the hook is made out of some pot metal alloy so I don't think I can weld it directly to the bracket. is there a better way than welding a block to the sheet metal and then screwing the hook into the block?

>> No.1815126

>>1815101
Screw block in from back no welding

>> No.1815141

>>1815126
I guess that would work but then the bracket wouldn't be flush against the door

>> No.1815183

>>1815141
Flat heads?

>> No.1815449
File: 419 KB, 1683x1265, motormount.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1815449

>>1812267
I finished my motor mount, came out alright and I'm pretty happy with it. Not having to crank the Z anymore is so nice.

>> No.1815459

>>1815449
You made it nicer than the rest of the machine. Hammer on the edges a bit so it blends in better.

>> No.1815547

>>1814987
Wrong

>> No.1815580

>>1815459
lol

>>1813399
new bulb installed and working, chucks greased with good john deer grease

feels_good_man.jpg

>> No.1815587

>tfw part of trumpbux is unemployment for self employed

fuck year

>> No.1815754

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwYjULqBMC0

>> No.1815756

>>1815449
looks good

>> No.1815798

How do you determine how much waste material there should be just for holding a part in a lathe chuck? Especially unsupported by a tailstock? I keep wasting ~1" of material turning 2-3" long parts.

>> No.1815801

>>1815798
normally the part is expensive enough to pay for considerable extra material, but if you are making 1,000s of them then the waste would add up.

depends on the part, it's value and quantity

>> No.1816054

>>1815798
Usually we do 1/4" or 6mm for metric.

>> No.1816357

Lame question, but where do I find machine tool apparel? Id love an Enco trucker hat or a Bridgeport T shirt

>> No.1816358

>>1816357
me too, you would probably have to ask the company. maybe email them?

>> No.1816360

>>1816357
https://shop.dmgmori.com/b2b/en/Merchandise/Apparel/c/Apparel?filter=%3AsolrSorting&page=5

DMG Mori has an apparel shop, at least.

>> No.1816362

>>1813002
make a heat treat oven bro, it's really not fucking hard kek

>> No.1816364

oooh yeah machine is cheap digital level level, now on to the high precision 2 tenths over 10" level

>> No.1816367

I need help parting off inconel 625. It's .5 diameter, and I'm running a .125in wide iscar "superalloy" grade insert, feeding from x.5 to x-.04 with g99 and g97 at s300 and f.0009. I'm getting about 5 parts per insert before chipping. Any faster and it makes a horrific grinding/squeal noise. I'm getting a decently formed continuous chip, so i know I'm not just rubbing.

>> No.1816378

>>1816367
slower rpm and faster feed maybe?

>> No.1816403

>>1816367
just glancing at machining of inconel, lots of low RPM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acHCICP9loY

>> No.1816628

>oooh yeah high precision level level in X

Now I need to let the machine run for a while to get a realistic temperature profile.

>> No.1817152
File: 678 KB, 2184x1698, Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 4.03.14 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817152

Hey guys, mocked up a quick art knife piece and was considering getting it machined in aluminum somehow but kinda clueless when it comes to machining limits -- anything that immediately jumps out as difficult to machine? I'm thinking the diamond-shaped holes and chamfers are gonna be the most difficult areas.

>> No.1817166

>>1817152
>latchless design
Why even waste the time and materials?

>> No.1817178

>>1817166
Wouldn’t be hard to shorten the spacers and use the rear hole for a t-latch or something. I’m more concerned about being able to machine the handles.

>> No.1817187

>>1817152
All X-Y corners are gonna turn round, the less round you want them to be, the smaller the endmill you have to use, the longer the machining time. You could make a broaching tool to make the edges sharp, but you can't broach the diamond chamfers I think. Only way to do it aside from a 5-axis would be punching the diamond shape and then machining the rest. It'd be better to just design something more round from the get-go.

>> No.1817211

>>1817152
you can probably do the diamond chamfers with a chamfer mill the right angle and like a pencil toolpath

care to separate out one of the handles and upload somewhere so I can play with the cam?

>> No.1817217

>>1817152
all the way down to the bottom though, the diamond edge might be pretty hard

>> No.1817362

>>1817211
that would be cool anon, here's a step file of one of the handles if that works for you
https://files.catbox.moe/abnieg.step

>> No.1817374
File: 125 KB, 1205x635, diamonds.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1817374

>>1817362
can't reach into the sharp points of the diamond without some expensive tools or machinery

maybe they could be stamped into the strips of metal

>> No.1817378

>>1817374
well I guess if I took the time to add a thinner chamfer mill to the library as a tapered mill with a small end diameter of like 0.001" so I can use it with the pencil toolpath it might work out
hell the 90 deg chamfer mill might work

those diamonds are a pita and the 90 degree wall portions at the bottom are even worse. Don't expect a sharp corner there, could just do a 2d contour with a 1/16 endmill or something and have it pretty close.

>> No.1817382

>>1817378
hmm I wonder if you can do a 3d contour or an adaptive with a tapered mill...

>> No.1817383

>>1817374
That's really helpful to know -- I'll play around with it, thanks again for the advice bro

>> No.1818048

What is brass like to turn?
Turning .375 stock with cuts going down to .250 at most
With a collet chuck, will I be able to turn it unsupported at 3". maybe even 4-5"?
Or will the deflections be too much? I dont need high tolerances, just high surface finishes.

Im trying to decide on a very small machine, maybe buying a cnc sherline lathe, or a mini lathe cnc, or maybe looking elsewhere.

>> No.1818111

The rule of thumb for V-belt ratio is said to be 1:3. Thats when you want actually transfer torque.
How high of a ratio can i use when theres no load? I just want to spin a 20mm OD, 0.5m long pipe in the air with no load.

>> No.1818123

>>1818048
could use oversized stock then turn the first 2" or so then the next 2" until you get down to the end of the part, the finish pass to patch it all together might be a little iffy. Don't get it so long it will try to bend and whip around of course. Low RPM.

>> No.1818165

What the fuck is with this retarded program fusion 360 why the fuck can't you set a sketch dimension to 0 so things are at the same height who the fuck programmed this retarded shit

>> No.1818175
File: 444 KB, 456x465, 1555109216066.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818175

>>1818048
turn 13xD unsupported

>> No.1818208

>>1818165
turn off the stupid ass history timeline thing

go back to direct modeling and it doesn't do weird shit when you try to change a sketch dimension

>> No.1818216

>>1818175
you should be sharpening your CAM skills atm anon

>> No.1818307
File: 87 KB, 800x600, 6600_pic15.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818307

>>1818123
Im trying to make brass one hitters, I know the guy who owns all 5 big headshops in the area, and now that weed is legal he wants to sell USA made brass hitters. He used to sell them, then the machinist retired a few months ago. Ive been sitting on this a while now, I have never sold anything because I do it as a hobby and have no CNC stuff. But I am gonna spend my trumpbucks on a mini cnc lathe to do it.

Its obviously easy to bore first, then support the piece with a live center and then work around it. That a manual processes though, its going to make it a lot more work on me to get orders done.

Im just wondering if buying the much more expensive "chucker" production lathe would work. Its a lot more ideal for small production runs and I really want to pull the trigger.
The collet chuck has a lever closer, pull the lever and pull through more stock to an index point, close lever and you are done as opposed to manual drawbar.
Then you program every process around the large work table with indexed tools. Its a poor mans tool changer.

Obviously as a pseudo turret lathe there is no tailstock.
If it can run unsupported, I can pump the pieces out quickly if I dial in a program right.
If it cannot run unsupported, I will obviously not be able to use the machine at all for its intended purpose. And that would be a very expensive mistake.

>> No.1818318

>>1818307
If you end up wanting to buy a used tool-room lathe or something, toward the end of the year you should be looking on places like kdcapital and resellcnc for some good deals. 'bout oct' or nov'

>> No.1818367

>>1818318
is it just me or are all the machine tools super overpriced atm?

>> No.1818373

>>1818318
Id love to buy some proper equipment, but I dont have the money or space for it really. Thats a long term goal down the line maybe. I mean I DID just lose my job as a cnc button pusher since things were slow even before corona. Im kind of looking to make money on my own, but I dont think hitters will pay the bills. At least its a start though.

I think ive settled on doing my own CNC conversion on an 8x16 grizzly lathe. Itll be the same price in the end as buying the sherline (after I add in all the shit they dont give you), and still cheaper than the Sherline chucker. And itll be much much more useful in the end. I already have a lot of the tooling I need from my Atlas lathe.

>> No.1818406

>>1818373
nah don't buy new chinashit just buy used shit china or otherwise, best value

chances are someone has a mini lathe sitting around in their shed they aren't using for anything

corona might make them want to sell

>> No.1818407

>>1818406
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Lathe-UNIMAT-DB-200-With-Accessories-Gunsmith-Watchmaker-Jeweler/153910599771?hash=item23d5c9605b%3Ag%3AOVoAAOSwlNpepmQt&LH_ItemCondition=4

>> No.1818408

>>1818407
that listing looks pretty shit to me, but still.

https://louisville.craigslist.org/tls/d/louisville-mini-lathe-extras/7121043223.html

>> No.1818410

>>1818373
and then lastly, don't sell aluminum bullshit that will poison them when heated, use stainless of some kind, preferably food grade. Yes a mini lathe will cut stainless, just not very quickly.

>> No.1818470

>>1818406
Yeah I know, but the market here is just terrible. I never see chinkshit for sale on CL or FB or anything else. I saw a Smithy once, and they wanted almost 3k for it. And I just browse constantly looking for tooling. Im going to just buy new and not worry about the hunt even if it costs a bit more.

>>1818410
He told me he averages selling 20-30 chinese aluminum hitters a day, and this was before weed was legal.
He wants brass, because old timers will buy brass and they are willing to pay more for USA and locally made.

>> No.1818574

>>1818408
I don't know if you can get the easily in the us but try looking for emco compact 8 or 5 lathes. Wonderful little machines that will last for a lifetime. I have bought two old ones. One that was in a very bad state but with a bit of fixing ran like a charm and one that was 30 years old and still worked perfectly.

>> No.1818592
File: 116 KB, 1028x768, index.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818592

>>1818574
Different anon, have you ever seen or used the CNC version? Theres one for sell locally, they want 1k for it, I think i'd be better off buying a small-medium sized conventional lathe.

>> No.1818605

>>1818592
You can build your own version of that for the money if you're experienced enough. If I want anything CNCd I'll go to my job or a friend

>> No.1818788
File: 176 KB, 1290x757, G3_GBX.REVOLUTION2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1818788

Hi guise. I'm working on a project on wind turbines and I can't find information about the types of couplings used, specifically, the one that joins the main axle with the gearbox, are they just one piece? Pic related, main axle and gearbox of a wind turbine.

>> No.1818820

how do I make radial cuts in the end of a round part if I don't have live tooling or any kind of indexer?

>> No.1818840

>>1818820
on a mill with an indexer

>> No.1818901

Am I wrong in thinking that a bullnose endmill is good if I want to avoid tool changes? Since I never need sharp corners (stress risers) for most things, bullnose gives me the ability to make horizontal flats, vertical flats, and a 1mm ballnose as long as there aren't tiny pockets or corners.

>> No.1818931

>>1818901
If it works for you, run it.

I use then often for making wrench flats on IHCP cylinder rods. Saves me from milling a flat and chasing the shoulder with a ball nose after

>> No.1819006

>>1818901
One thing I dislike with bullnose endmills is that they are so slow to feed. Had to mill some 42CrMo7 which had some oil groves that require ballnose action. And while a normal endmill at that size would run 400 mm/min the ballnose could only do 80 mm/min.

>> No.1819009

>>1819006
Shouldn't a bullnose run faster than a ballnose of the same radius since the radius is further from the spindle center?

>> No.1819011

>>1818901
You use the corner radius tools for 3d surfacing as well as roughing

>> No.1819016

>>1819009
Would help a lot if manufacturers would stop using bullnose and ballnose indiscrete. But yeah a bullnose would cut faster than a ballnose. But still not as fast as a normal endmill with a "big" roughing radius (sub 0,5 mm)

>> No.1819018

>>1819009
Yes
>>1819006
Bullnose=/=Ball, you can run bull nose way faster than sharp, square endmills.

>> No.1819027

How do chamerfered end tools compare to radiused end tools in terms of speed and load? Say a 20deg chamfer vs 20deg radius on a .500 tool.

>> No.1819104

>NYC CNC
>SFM IS BS!!!
>it's impossible to get high enough sfm on a lathe
>as proof I run lower than recommended sfm because I don't give a shit about productivity
>therefore you can run super mega million dollar cnc (which I have never used) at much higher than recommended sfm
what

>> No.1819514

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HEruBtaC1c

suh-weet!

back to debolt

>> No.1819601

>>1819027
doubt there is much difference

>> No.1819617

>>1819104
>Listening to tormach shills

>> No.1819698

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJ_ksStqaP4

Kern day 25

>> No.1819855

What do you think of super gluing some 1/16 aluminum slats to to an aluminum t-slot table, then surfacing that?

>> No.1819915

>>1819855
I haven't tried the superglue trick yet. I have always used double-sided tape to do projects like you're describing. Just clean the table and the part good with acetone or alcohol and press the part down good. As long as you're not taking heavy cuts, it will hold well.

>> No.1820036

I watched some random youtube video (cant find it) and he was drilling out a 1" hole on a manual lathe, medium sized one.
He drilled it dry then made a point of saying he drilled it dry because if he has used cutting fluid it would make it work harden.

Is there any truth to this? Why would cutting fluid cause work hardening at all, its keeping it cooler and helping chips. You wont work harden with proper chip load, but even if you have too low of a chip load the coolant should still help.
Is the guy just a dummy?

>> No.1820044

Im going to buy a ER32 holder for my lathe tailstock to hold drills.
Some of the Metric collets I see say 4-5 or 9-10 etc etc. Ive never used ER collets, does that mean I can put a 4 or 5mm drill and just crank it down, or will it damage it?

>> No.1820051

>>1820036
probably shitty intermittent coolant

>> No.1820052
File: 218 KB, 748x1014, Lms.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820052

>>1820044
Nice, I had no clue. Seems like its a viable option for a tool holder.

>> No.1820056

>>1820051
So would intermittent coolant cause thermal cycling that could work harden medium and high carbon steels?
I guess it makes sense

>> No.1820060

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHTICX_pA9M

>> No.1820062

>>1820044
>>1820052
yeah you want to use a 4-5mm with a 5mm tool tho because if you compress the collet more you get chips up inside the collet nut (usually) and the runout is likely better.

So closer to the maximum size of the collet is better, but ER collets are great because of their clamping range.

>> No.1820338

How do I turn on the v axis overload alarm on Haas servo 300 barfeeder? I just got a new one and found out the hard way it's strong enough to push itself across the shop when a short bar got hung up on the back of the spindle tube

>> No.1820340

>>1820036
You can either flood it completely non stop, or run it dry. Switching back and forth can cause work hardening from rapid heating and cooling over and over. So either get high pressure thru coolant or just don't bother. This is what I'm told by others at least, seems possible

>> No.1820368

>>1820056
If the coolant isn't reaching the cutting action while it's happening then it's better to run it dry. If you were to apply coolant afterward you could thermal shock the part / tool which depending on the material could work harden it or cause thermal cracking on the tool.

So if your running a coolant line on a drill and the coolant can't reach the cutting point while it's in the hole then when the drill retracts out of the hole the coolant rushes in and shocks the part and tool. You can prevent this by either peck drilling to make sure coolant gets into the hole at regular intervals or running coolant directly through the tool if it supports it.

>> No.1820441

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00KKqAMPhck

>> No.1820449

>>1814967

Thepitch diameter(often called the effectivediameter) of a parallel thread is thediameterof the imaginary co-axial cylinder which intersects the surface of the thread in such a manner that the intercept on a generator of the cylinder, between the points where it meets the opposite flanks of a thread groove, is equal to half the nominal pitch of the thread

>> No.1820457
File: 52 KB, 500x500, 1574747933652.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1820457

Local company has openings for machinist trainees. Is it worth looking into? I need a job, and I want something that I can be proud of, and that I can gain skill in. But I am also worried that it's a dead end, monotonous, work the floor with mandatory overtime kind of job.

>> No.1820470

>>1820457
do they use automation? new machines?

>> No.1820473

>>1820470
It's a fairly large aerospace company, so I imagine they have good equipment.

>> No.1820474

>>1820457
There's a wide range of jobs in this trade from the lowly button pushers all the way up to process engineers. What your job entails depends on how much you know in this trade. If you don't want to work overtime till you die your gonna have to work your ass off acquiring as much knowledge as you can and proving it. Whether or not it's worth it is entirely up to you.

What kind of machine shop is it and what kind of experience do you have in this trade (if any)?

>> No.1820476

>>1820474
They produce parts for defense applications, mostly aircraft.

I have no experience in machining. I just want a good job that I can gain respect in and make enough money to feed a family.

>> No.1820477

>>1820473
>Aerospace

Odds are good you will be just operating machines (button pusher) starting out there. Do they offer an apprenticeship program?

>> No.1820478

>>1820477
The position is called Machinist Trainee, which to me implies at least some measure of organized instruction.

I don't know if it's an official apprenticeship program, or even if it's modeled on those lines.

>> No.1820480

>>1820478
It's worth a shot if your looking for a good job, although without any experience it's going to be hard getting into an aerospace shop, though not impossible.

Just sell yourself on reliability and ESPECIALLY a willingness to learn, you'll be doing a lot of learning.

>> No.1820484

>>1820480
Will do. At the very least, it can't hurt to send in an application.

>> No.1820512

For a hobby machinist, is there any reason not to use a tile saw for cutting metal stock? I got one for free when I redid my kitchen ages ago, and really only use it for cutting geodes and interesting rocks for my kids. But it's basically a wet saw with an 8" blade.

I'd be using it for fairly light bar stock mostly, as all I have is a hobby lathe.

>> No.1820532

>>1820512
ill be honest, it doesnt sound like something id want to do. the wheel will probably load up before it cuts and they dont look to rigid

>> No.1820564

is there a way to turn eccentric grooves while supporting the part on both ends?

>> No.1820671

>>1820564
yes, off-center turning

>> No.1820728

I'm thinking about making a low profile vise, and it occurred to me, is there any reason the moving jaw needs any precision at all?

>> No.1820734

>>1820473
>It's a fairly large aerospace company

Being honest, its 100% a button pusher job with very little room to grow. You may grow as a person, your skills and experience will grow, but they are going to bring you in for $13 an hour and youll cap fairly low after a very long time.

But thats not the end of the world, this is 2020. Few people get a job at 18 and stay there until they retire. Get some good experience, find another job shop where someone retired, slide in for a pay raise. Its the only real way to start making real money, not begging for a .50c raise every year.
Or start your own shop.

If you go in and say "im just trying to make enough money to feed a family.", they will pay you just enough to feed a family.

>> No.1820737

>>1820512
I mean, if you put a suitable blade on it, it may be ok...
Every hobby machinist should have a horizontal bandsaw to cut stock.

Its $199 on sale at harbor freight till the end of the month. Its the actual, correct tool for the job. Its cheap, and itll cut anything you put in it.
Keep the tile saw in good shape for when you need to do tile or other related stuff again. Or sell it to fund the bandsaw.

https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/1+HP%2C+4%22+X+6%22+HORIZONTAL_+VERTICAL+METAL+CUTTING+BAND+SAW

>> No.1820739

>>1820737
But the chips a cold rotary saw makes though

>> No.1820839

>>1818788
They use shrink disks google should be able to give you more info, the towers in working on right now have that covered up otherwise I would get a picture for you
>>1818788

>> No.1821033

Has anybody asked for a raise for months with no results, then found a new job offer for the money you want to make, gotten the new job in writing, taking it to your current employer and saying match or beat this number or I quit? I'm trying to find a new shop that I would actually be willing to quit for. I don't see why this wouldn't work

>> No.1821040

>>1821033
No, and I wouldn't bother personally. I would just get a better paying job and give two weeks notice and not burn any bridges, because they may re hire you down the line. Half the people at the shop where i worked where people who where re-hired.

>> No.1821052

>>1821033
>gotten the new job in writing, taking it to your current employer and saying match or beat this number or I quit?

Don't, just put in your two weeks. The last two jobs that i quit, they offered me more money to stay.

>> No.1821056

>>1820839
Thank you so much!

>> No.1821120

>>1821033
Don't. That's a good way to get a raise until they find a replacement. Then you're out your current job, and out the job you got accepted for but turned down.
Like others have said, just put your time in. If you're on a project nearing the end but will take longer than two weeks to finish, maybe offer up to 3 weeks so you don't screw them (if your new employer can wait that long) and offer to take calls from anyone resuming your project for a while.

>> No.1821315

>>1820671
how do you hold the other end though?

>> No.1821316

>>1821315
with a center that is off-center just like the other end

>> No.1821321

>tfw nexgencam hasn't replied back in a day or two

They're supposed to be building my custom 4-axis turn-mill post for fusion. They say one week for first iteration.

>> No.1821350

>>1821321
What control?

>> No.1821355

>>1821350
MSC-516

Guy with the SL-25SY here. Lots and lots of programs on the machine, it will handle at least a megabyte if not more I think. Looking at the "free" number makes me think they upgraded the memory.

Things are looking up.

>> No.1821362

>>1821355
I've done a bit of post modifications on Inventor HSM which uses the same *cps files as fusion, it's not bad but it can be time consuming doing testing. Is it expensive having a outside company do it?

>> No.1821364

>>1821362
Yes mildly. Worth every penny if it works though.

They are charging me 1,750 for it.

>> No.1821368

>>1821364
>They are charging me 1,750 for it.
That's not bad for a working post. If I had a normal job I would just pay to have it done rather than dicking around with it, but I get paid to do nothing so I have time on my hands.

>> No.1821371

>>1821368
I just want it working asap. I could spend a month fucking around with it or pay for it and have it in a week or two.

>> No.1821383

>>1821316
how does the center move around the centerline of the tailstock?

>> No.1821385

>>1821383
hole drilled off-set in the end of the stock

center stays stationary

>> No.1821389

>>1821385
what if the part is already a cylinder? could you put some kind of mandrel in it and drill the hole in that?

>> No.1821392

>>1821389
https://youtu.be/DyJWa3Vbi8s?t=305

>> No.1821464

If you are turning mild steel and don't take 10mm roughing cuts, you are a fucking pussy. Change my mind.

>> No.1821466

>>1821464
shit workholding, long thin part

>> No.1821475

>>1821033
I did this at my first job. hired in as a button pusher/part loader for $10/hr. In six months I was doing my own setups. At one year I was doing setups for other guys full time. Annual review came around, raise to $11/hr. Went to the place across the street and got an offer for $14 and brought it back. Got $14 and a first shift slot. My name was mud and they made my life hell as revenge for twisting their arm. Don't do it, just line up another job and scoot. Do give your two weeks though. Job hopping is the norm, it's the only way to get really paid, as long as you're not a cunt about it its ok.

>> No.1821571

>>1821033
This is standard in large white collar jobs and there are no repercussions.
You do this in a shop where the boss man knows you?
You'll be replaced the second he can get another guy he can pay nothing to.

>> No.1821596

>>1821464
My eyecrometer is calibrated to imperial only, I have no idea what 10mm looks like.

>> No.1821603

>>1812267
I'm beyond sleep deprivation crazy and drinking right now. But if anyone does freelance work, has a guess on professional pricing, or just wants me to buy bricks of aluminum to experiment with and possibly make some cash I'd like to talk here.

Dickfarmer here. Basically i just make dicks. At a loss. For laffs.

However. There seems to be a market for other things not shaped like dicks (i have no idea why...)

I live in Elk County Kansas and just figured maybe we could have some fun machining sinker molds.

I have access to a lot of lead. It's shit quality though and if we can sell enough sinkers in any shape to break even i can front it.

Shit just seems like harmless fun while the plague is upon us.

I can make a 4 ton concrete dick fountain and litterally cockblock people from driving soon.

Let's do it guys!

>> No.1821615

>>1821603
>come see Kansas' biggest concrete dick! Off exit 45 after Topeka

>> No.1821619

>>1821603
The same thing applies now that it did when you wanted the dick molds
Nobody gives a shit what their sinkers look like, they are functional and they get lost.

Nobody is going to buy novelty sinkers. I get you think you found a niche market, but I can guarantee you didnt.
Save your money, time, and effort

>> No.1821625

Where can I find someone that will do machining on wood for me?

I have a small project in mind, taking a disk from a tree trunk and carving in some lettering. I considered getting a router and doing it myself, but it'd probably end up horribly done. How could I find a professional who'd be able to bring a plan to and get it done?

>> No.1821627

>>1821625
google+yourtownname

>> No.1821630

>>1821625
>I considered getting a router and doing it myself, but it'd probably end up horribly done.

Look up a pantograph jig or letter stencils, they arent hard to use and itll be the same cost or cheaper.
Other than that check etsy or local art fairs, it just takes having a cnc router to do it.

>> No.1822029
File: 380 KB, 220x165, 1587038339957.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822029

>Tfw the programmer insists that the 7 flute 5/8 tool can handle the cut just fine.

> 2.15 axial .04 radial 1840rpm at 48.7 Ipm in nitronic 60 sst

> going 90deg into a 5/16 inner corner...

>tfw you glue your thumb to the cycle stop button because you know something doesn't seem quite right.

>tfw the tool snaps off at the Weldon flat the microsecond it contacts material. No chance at all to hit stop before catastrophic failure.

>Tfw the $350 carbide end mill is turned into shrapnel.

>tfw the programmer finds a way to blame everyone but himself.

>> No.1822036

>>1822029
1840 rpm is not enough, probably the material limiting the SFM right?

>> No.1822116

>>1822036
Tooling rep is who gave the speed and feed recommendation. 300 sfm and a bit over .003 per flute our.

Programmer then said there's no way to avoid that harsh cut, but it seems to me that it ought to be able to make a series of smaller and smaller radii, instead of cutting 90 deg 5/16 each pass and just stepping closer to the corner. Am I missing something here?

>> No.1822123

>>1812664
I still have my grandpa's brace drill. It has the ratchet as well. I use it more often than my electric drill.

>> No.1822128

>>1822116
any normal adaptive toolpath generated by CAM software would avoid a sharp corner...

>> No.1822165
File: 2.10 MB, 3264x2448, 20200516_181613.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822165

fuck me I spent all day making these 5 parts. the worst thing is the shop isn't even getting paid for it and the customer probably won't be able to use them.

>> No.1822174

>>1822165
God i hate mild steel when it comes to making a nice surface finish. Where i work we make a lot of 303 stainless parts and it's so much more fun to work with.

>> No.1822186
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1822186

>>1822165
>>1822174
you gotta spin the piss out of 1018 to get good surface finishes with inserts. ur carbide insert is probably around 600sfm and if the small diameter on that screw is lets say a half inch it should be spinning around 4500rpm and your manual lathe goes to what, 2000 if your lucky?

also, you spent all day on it and didnt even break all your edges?

>> No.1822237

>>1822174
>>1822186
only the threaded bushing is mild steel, I think. the other parts are 4140.

>>1822186
the threaded parts of the screws are 8-32 and I was going at 720rpm and .006ipm power feed. I don't know if the machine can go much faster than that. the gears go up to 2k but the previous guy claimed it would break something if I used it. I was having enough trouble just keeping the live center from backing out.

>> No.1822289

>>1822128
Yea I just drew up a quick approximation of the part in fusion and ran a 5/8 tool into a 1/8 radius inside corner and it gradually decreased the radius until it got down to 5/16 and then backed off. This is not how the program i was given this morning acted at all. I'm wondering how to bring this up with the programmer if at all. He's a 70 year old boomer who is also the president of the company and has been in the trade for like 45 years... actually a pretty level headed cool guy for the most part, but I don't know how he'd react to someone with 1 year experience telling him I think he's doing something wrong...

>> No.1822358

Is there a good way to make money off of a scanned CNC machine manual?

I've scanned the red cover programming manual and the yellow cover programming manual for my SL-25SY, kind of want to charge a download fee somewhere.

>> No.1822363

>>1821596
Well 12.7mm is 1/2in so 10mm is roughly 7/16in I think

>> No.1822364

>>1822358
>www.Hebrewmingle.com

>> No.1822372

>>1822363
10mm/25.4=0.3937", it's closer to 25/64.

>> No.1822377

>>1822364
>not jdate

>> No.1822420

>>1822289
Present to him your findings, be able to answer questions, don't get assmad if he shuts you down

>> No.1822564

>>1820060
>ave
nope

>> No.1822930

I don't understand how some of these things are happening in Fusion 360 but then again I'm not a machinist so I don't know how these programs are supposed to flow
>random components sticking together when trying to animate
>sketches acquiring an angle when moving them to the opposite side of the component
>autistic headbashing
The thing I'm trying to do couldn't even be simpler it's all symmetrical

>> No.1822940

>>1822930
I figured it out my entire tree was fucked up and I had components under components rather than the main project

>> No.1822962
File: 237 KB, 640x480, Go Board v4.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822962

>> No.1822979

>>1822237
u should know how to calculate cutting speed. if the machine cant go fast enough then poor surface finishes are what happens. ways you can mitigate this is by leaving like a half thou on it and polishing it into final size with some emery paper.
how would the center even come out of the tailstock if its clamped down, the part is secure in the chuck? theres no room for it to go. are you an apprentice?

>> No.1823393

>>1822979
the tailstock doesn't clamp to the ways like it's supposed to. you pull the handle to lock it but then you can see it sliding back when you turn the wheel to push the live center in.

>> No.1823408

>>1823393
There should be a nut on the bottom side that you tighten to adjust the clamping force.

>> No.1823595
File: 26 KB, 472x433, eastwood.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823595

Alright I've almost got this stupid $200 media blast cabinet together.

>> No.1823597

>>1823393
>>1823408
nut ain't always on the bottom side, it's probably on the top side near the operator

let me see if I can find a video

>> No.1823598
File: 63 KB, 495x513, tailstock not.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823598

>>1823597
https://youtu.be/2HEruBtaC1c?t=1096

@18:16 you can see the lathe in the bg with the nut visible on the tailstock

>> No.1823727

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEz9nFWcklo

>> No.1823760

>>1813641
Usually people watch cnc videos on youtube and think that a manual lathe works in the same way, we had an apprentice at our work try and tap something at 750 rpm. Good times

>> No.1823927

>>1823727
>tfw 4k 60fps

>> No.1824000

new edge precision anvil machining

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqW3ij2uMDo

>> No.1824071

>>1824000
>11:42

>> No.1824077

>>1813002
Get a used pottery furnace for $200. It goes up to a thousand degrees and will sometimes have programmable schedules.

>> No.1824236

This is pretty cool, blend toolpath and fusion is getting a tool library with multiple feeds and speeds profiles per tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Phkea-207c

>> No.1824532

Is it okay for a quadrature encoder to output stuff when the axis is still?
Its going bonkers yet none of the axes are moving.

>> No.1824786

>>1824532
i have no idea

>> No.1824816

>>1824786
Thanks that really helped.

>> No.1824900

My stepdad just finished machinist school and got a job at a small shop, i want to get him a congratulatory gift but im not really sure what kind of things a machinist appreciates having and using on a daily basis. Hope everyones doing well

>> No.1824906

>>1813533
Shouldn't you have a set screw or some such to keep it on there? Why did it fly off? What did u do?

>> No.1824915

>>1824900
Theres plenty of useful tools however he may have already bought them or they're already provided by his shop.
Heres a few things off the top of my head:
8" Mitutoyo digital caliper if he doesn't have one already
0-1" Digital micrometer is nice to have when you work mostly lathes
Or a set of convention micrometers
Radius gauges
Set of gauge blocks
Indicator with magnetic base

A tool chest
Nice set of metric and imperial allen keys
Flat nose, long nose and cutter pliers
Dead blow hammer

>> No.1825013

>>1824900
deadblow hammer set (different sizes), T handle hex wrenches

>> No.1825034

Whats your take on setscrews being labeled "steel" vs "alloy steel"
Im trying to decide if im going to make an order from Grainger or McMaster Carr

The generic Grainger Approved are just labeled "steel", and are half the price of the generic McMaster set screws that are labeled "alloy steel"
Grainger also sells "alloy steel" and charge more for them, just not in the size I need.

Is this an actual difference in steels, or is it just one of those oversights in labeling?

>> No.1825044

>>1825034
my guess is oversight in labeling, mcmaster screws have always been pretty good imo.

>> No.1825052

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjQ5pOkCeW0

making grooving boring bars

>> No.1825093

>>1825034
Just get the ones from McMaster, they are the standard black oxide screws.

>> No.1825185

Anyone have any theories on why the spindle air blast doesn't work on the sub-spindle?

>> No.1825240

>>1825185
Is the solenoid activating?

>> No.1825282

>>1825240
I hear a noise if that's what you mean.

>> No.1825458

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4QQC7FovRg

muh dick

>> No.1825474

>>1825458
>yes they have capto quick-change holders

https://www.youtube.com/user/ExsysToolEppinger/videos

The planet ones use the coolant to cool AND lubricate the bearings. Hmm...

https://www.planet-products.com/live-tooling-machine-tool.html

>> No.1825479

>>1825240
>>1825282
just cuz u hear it click doesnt mean its workin properly, get ur multimeter out

>> No.1825505

Pot your pay, country, (state) and responsibilities
I make 18 an hour to do random protoypes, and run the same 15 or so jobs over and over with 3 or so protoypes getting added a year. I'm responsible for getting the prototype from paper into reality. I also do tool work, making jaws and presses for the press brake department and shit and fixing odd things around the shop by reverse engineering new parts. Am I being overpaid?

>> No.1825549

>>1825505
I'm a gunsmith. my job is probably 30% taking stuff apart and putting it back together, 25% manual machining, 25% hand fitting parts, and 20% trying to figure out what the fuck I'm doing since my responsibilities are over my actual experience level. I get paid 20 an hour but it's actually less than that since I basically work 1h unpaid overtime every day.

how does prototyping work? if you're doing the same thing over and over is it still a prototype?

>> No.1825805

Nexgencam claims they are seeing heavy volume. I don't doubt it, corona-chan means delays for every-fucking-one.

Can't even buy amazon things unless you want to wait a week and a half.

>> No.1825813

>>1825805
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU CAN'T GET THE DISPOSABLE GLOVES I REALLY LIKE"

>> No.1825817

>>1825813
>Americans are saving like it's the 1980s
>this is the biggest threat to the economy

make light of the matter if you wish, but some chinese/mexican worker is having a hard time right now.

>> No.1825964

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6C18EQ-9hI

>> No.1825993

i tried cutting some fiber glass (fr4 - pcbs) with a 0.5mm dia mill at 0.2mm DOC but they keep breaking after few centimeters of cutting any idea what i'm doing wrong? Could 300mm/min at 10k rpm be to fast?

>> No.1825996

>>1825993
With a 0.5mm drill that's probably pretty fast. Try something like 100. Or if you have to maintain feed, reduce DoC.

>> No.1826104

>>1825505
CA, 19/hr, set up CNC lathe jobs, run parts, check finsh, minor programming. Sometimes I do manual stuff, but not a lot, or anything complex. My title is production machinist, so I'm not really supposed to be programming shit.
What state btw, you're probably being underpaid.

>> No.1826107

>>1826104
>check finish
and dimensions ofc. Pretty tight tolerances sometimes. +/- .0002 for one job.

>> No.1826122

>>1825817
I just enjoyed their face when I showed them Mcmaster themselves telling them they can't have their favorite gloves. I don't think they've ever seen anything out of stock

>> No.1826123

>>1825505
22/hr shipping and receiving/apprentice

>> No.1826127

>>1825993

Is this a spiral endmill or one of the flat engraving bits? The spirals are stupid fragile, and break all the time in cheap spindles. Good workholding (like a vacuum chuck) also helps. As small as it is, that 0.015mm chip load (assuming it's a 2-flute) may be too much. Either up the RPM or reduce the feed.

If you mean one of the engraving bits, those are a lot more durable and IDK what to tell you at that point.

>> No.1826175
File: 2.95 MB, 1280x720, mini_mill.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826175

got a little mini-mill up and put together. needs to be calibrated and such now, but it works. two of the motors sorta click a little, but otherwise seem to work fine. might need some adjusting. gotta look into it.

and i need to build an enclosure of some sort so I'm not spitting chips on the computer.

>> No.1826180

>>1826175
Is that a sherline?
I read you arent supposed to use laptops because of power savings shit.

>> No.1826183

>>1826180
Taig. I've seen them running with laptops, but that's a fair concern. I can turn the power saving shit off, and really all it should effect is the output to the parallel port anyway I would think. I suppose it might lose steps?
Worst case scenario I'll just build a tower and attach my shit spare monitor I have bolted to the wall to it (you can see the cords hanging down in the webm, it's not plugged in atm).
Gotta do some cord management too, but first thing's first is getting it running smooth and proper.

>> No.1826186

>>1826183
Im currently in the process of buying everything to do a CNC conversion on a 10x22 G0602 lathe.
The fucking PC with a parallel port is the hardest part, since I want to use LinuxCNC.

Did you put the CNC stuff together yourself?

>> No.1826188

>>1826186
>Did you put the CNC stuff together yourself?
No. I'm an electrical retard so I didn't do any of the wiring, but I've looked into a little bit and if you're marginally more competent than I am it shouldn't be an issue.
The main reason I didn't was time. I don't have a lot of it.
Pretty much all I've had to do so far is slap some pre-wired motors onto some half-assembled mounts and plug them into a controller.

>> No.1826211
File: 1.88 MB, 500x500, 08.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826211

So, if I'm looking to buy a good quality mill or lathe, and I can't find any WW2 era old ass shit, what brands do I go with? I've been asking around and all I ever hear is to avoid grizzly.

>> No.1826219

>>1826211
Most of Grizzlys tools are benchtop machines under 1000lbs.
If you are looking for benchtop stuff, Grizzly (or other companies who sell the same exact machines under a different name) is pretty much the only choice for new stuff.

You are told to avoid them because your money goes a lot further when buying a hundred year old 2500lb machine for similar prices of a 500lb grizzly. Clearly the bigger heavier machine is going to be stiffer and have more capacity.

But no matter what the autists at Practical Machinists say, for home hobby work those mid size benchtop machines can do very nice work. Just takes skill and knowing the machines limits.
Its just not bang for the buck at all.

>> No.1826244

>>1826211
What do you need it to do?

>> No.1826254

>>1826104
Nc
>>1825549
They hand me a piece of paper with a drawing on it and I figure out what material to start with, how we hold material, what tools we need to order from msc to make the part, make the jaws or vice to hold the part, write the program and make 4 or 5 parts, get it to qc for approval then they ship it to the customer and they either sign a contract for hundreds of them or turn the contract down. I do this probably once every six weeks then the rest of the time is just production work one setup every 3 days type shit

>> No.1826255

>>1826123
I'm gonna kill myself I hate this trade I could be making more money doing less work with quadruple the time off answering phones for some shithole corporation

>> No.1826257

>>1826255
California?

>> No.1826258

>>1826255
This is why you cant have loyalty to your company, its up to you to take care of yourself. Take the company for everything its worth and then bail.

>> No.1826280

>>1826186
>The fucking PC with a parallel port is the hardest part, since I want to use LinuxCNC.
nah dont fuck with parallel gayness no one uses that shit no more. get a mesa card http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=83_85&product_id=302

>>1826258
i nested in personal parts while cnc'ing shit at work this week, but then i blew up the probe stylus yesterday so i just went home (before 6pm)

>> No.1826305

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWvuFrr8jP8

damn I might actually buy this thing, it's like tapping chuck for cncs

>> No.1826332

>>1825505
$20/hour, Illinois. CNC mill setup and programming, inspection, maintenance, fixing every one else's shit, babysitting, machine repair, IT troubleshooting.

>> No.1826419

>>1825996
>>1826127
Shieeeeeeet fsw wizard says 40mm/min that is suicide inducing feedrate. When I use v bit i can easily do 700mm/min but the downside is i have to probe the whole piece for surface leveling which is a huge pain in the ass

>> No.1826446

>>1826419
can't you reduce stepdown or use an adaptive toolpath for higher feedrate?

>> No.1826458

>>1826446
there is no stepdown, the cut is only .2mm deep, adaptive is also useless since the whole thing is pure slotting with the slot width being cutter dia

guess i will just have to be patient and wait for it to finish, it still beats surface leveling

>> No.1826541

>>1826257
>>1826258
Nc again

>> No.1826569

>>1826541
Northern California?

>> No.1826572

>>1826541
Any red state is shit for pay. Nc is fucked both ways. Live in a city and life is bad. Live in the country and starve. I'm going to join the electrical union once this shit is over

>> No.1826574

>>1826572
Most red states are cheaper to live in. I make around 20 in CA, and everything is overpriced. If I made this much back in Appalachia I could afford land and a nice house.

>> No.1826610

h'what's this? The pandemic unemployment for small business owners is coming through.

>> No.1826626

>>1826219
Thank you

>> No.1826673

>>1826572
>Any red state is shit for pay

Nah, you just have to find decent places to work. If you work at a shitty job shop, then expect shitty pay.

>> No.1826676

>>1826255
To be fair I got extremely lucky and am overpaid. It just means they can now do whatever they want to me and I don't want to go anywhere else

>> No.1826679

(ROTARY3)
M69
G0 C0.
G1 X1.7028 Y-0.2917 Z0. F470.
X0.321 Y-0.055
X0.2961
X0.1361 F9.6
X0.134 C2.8 F29123.045
X0.1324 C5.465 F30303.002
X0.1308 C9.466 F32349.79

So uh, the F numbers there are a bit off right? That's the feedrate right?

>> No.1826693

>>1826679
Yeah man. Yeah. That's all fucked up. Probably should be .00whatever those numbers are or some such. Fucked up decimal placement. Maybe. I dunno.

>> No.1826716

>>1826693
what if it's in inches per minute? it's a rotary axis so I guess like 3k RPM could be fucking 29,123 IPM

>> No.1826761

Anyone might know why the control won't let me step through the program at this point?

:1001
G0 G20 G40 G80 G96 G99

N100(PROFILE ROUGHING1)
G0 G53 X0. Y0. <--- problem ?
G0 G53 Z0.
M69
G54
G99 G18 M46 (MILLING OFF)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWLYjusvt5s&feature=youtu.be

>> No.1826765

>>1826761
Thats a Fanuc controller right? When that happens to me it's usually something in the earlier lines hanging it up, might be one of the g codes in the second line.

>> No.1826766

>>1826765
mmmmk

>> No.1826769

>>1826765
I wonder wtf it is doing with G53.

>> No.1826777

>>1826765
eh chances are it has to do with trying to zero the Y axis while not in Y mode

>> No.1826794

>>1826716
I suppose, sure.

>> No.1826797

>>1826769
Same.

>> No.1827012

>>1826679
>>1826761
ah well with some edits it is usable, they will keep updating it based on my feedback apparently.

>> No.1827677

new error ILLEGAL T–CODE IN M06
@

G99 G18 M46 (MILLING OFF)
G50 S300
T0202 < --

http://www.helmancnc.com/fanuc-alarm-155-illegal-t-code-in-m06/

And the lights for both "turrets" is on when running the program, I bet there is a way to make the program run on only one turret that I'm screwing up. Time to read the operation manual again.

>> No.1827726

I was making a handle for a vise so I was turning some 1/2" stock down to .200, but for some reason I ended up with visibly wavy surface. I had the live center in the end like usual and it wasn't screeching like if there was tons of tool chatter. what went wrong?

>> No.1827729

>>1827726
Backlash? Concentricity? Fuck bearing in the center? Work holding?

>> No.1827754

>>1827729
I don't know it looked like it was wobbly somehow even though the live center was in it. I center drilled the end close to the chuck and then moved it out like I normally do. I've been having a lot of trouble the with tailstock recently so maybe there was something wrong with that.

>> No.1827894

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIfU4x0Lw9g

machining of the anvil

>> No.1828040

>bandsaw
>use soluble oil & water as cutting fluid
>corrdes the heck out of the aluminium sump
>now needs replaced
Any good, cheap alternatives for bandsaw cutting fluid that won’t cause these issues?

>> No.1828053

>>1828040
coolant that won't corrode aluminum?

>> No.1828066

>>1827726
How far did you have it sticking out?

>> No.1828074

>>1827894
Fancy.

>> No.1828081

>>1824900
Get him a nice ruler. Rulers are always useful.

>> No.1828090
File: 49 KB, 286x757, letter opener david.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828090

>>1828074
I hope to be doing fancy stuff on my lathe when nexgencam gets this post figured out.

>> No.1828097

>>1828040
Why not just cut dry?

>> No.1828145

I was trying to drill a hole through a rod so it could be riveted to another part, but I guess my drill walked or something because the hole doesn't line up. the original hole was for a 2.5mm rivet. do you think I can fix it by plunge milling the off center side with a 3/32 endmill to straighten it out and then reaming to 3mm for a bigger rivet?

>> No.1828186

>>1828145
sounds good to me

>> No.1828396

>>1828145
wait, if it's a rivet it probably has a certain distance it has to be from the edge...

could be a major fuckup for all I know

>> No.1828417

>>1828040
Canola oil and crayola crayons, it sounds like a meme but it works.

>> No.1828422

>>1828396
it's a threaded rod that screws into a tube and is then riveted through both to keep it from unscrewing. the hole on one side lines up with the pre-existing holes in the tube, but on the other side it's off to the side so the rivet won't go through.

>> No.1828423

>>1828422
2.5mm is 0.0984" and 3/32 is 0.0938" so IDK man

>> No.1828456

>>1828423
yeah I was thinking I could just get it straight enough so the reamer wouldn't try to follow the crooked hole

>> No.1828460

>>1828456
>reamer
>not following the hole

ehh

>> No.1828465

>>1828460
Well if you choke up on it real good but that will only buy you a thou maybe.

>> No.1828588
File: 4 KB, 637x456, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828588

>>1828460
I mean if I have the endmill plunge a straight hole the reamer will follow that instead of the drilled one that wandered.

>> No.1828950

>>1828588
don't see why it wouldn't work

>> No.1829290

>>1825505
I'm not a machinist, I make 18 an hour doing panel wiring, but recently got into the idea of machining and sheet metal. I started with 3d printing, but have been falling in love with Mills.

>> No.1829389

Anyone have any useful machining infographics or charts? Looking for helpful reminders to hang in my garage.

>> No.1829579
File: 63 KB, 1320x870, HEM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1829579

>>1829389

>> No.1829994

can you use a chamfer mill to cut a v groove? I want to make some soft jaws with a groove for holding round parts but I'm too lazy to turn the head and have to sweep it back in when I'm done.

>> No.1830025

>>1829994
Yes, I use mill-drills for engraving too which is the same thing.

>> No.1830046

>>1829290
Get one early in life because a knee mill makes everything easy.

>> No.1830092

>>1830025
can I use it to countersink holes too? what is a good one to buy? 1/2 is probably big enough or maybe even 3/8.

>> No.1830201

>>1830046
>early
I mean, it's still early, but I'm 32.

>> No.1830238

>>1830092
no drilling with them, 1/4" is what I use for engraving and chamfering

>> No.1830248
File: 1.84 MB, 3161x3553, 0525201231a_HDR~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830248

>>1830046
Just bought a grizzly at 22

>> No.1830249

>>1830248
30 here, just considering buying a heat and cool system for my barn with all my machines in it.

I can finally buy an old ass used forklift, but heating and cooling is every bit as important.

>> No.1830251

>>1830249
(keep machines from rusting with less humid cooled air)

>> No.1830263

>>1830238
why is it called a mill drill if you can't drill with them?

>> No.1830268

>>1830092

A chamfer mill is usually 90 degrees while a countersink is usually 82 degrees

>> No.1830309

>>1830263
marketing purpses

>> No.1830360

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lQYKmajpSY

I didn't expect to want to buy a new chuck but these Schunks are pretty hot.

>> No.1830499

>>1830360
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCSmsdBMORk

>> No.1830522
File: 1.51 MB, 640x800, TornFemaleAndeancat.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830522

What is the typical career path for machinists (Manual or CNC)? Should I look for an apprenticeship?

Is there anyway to know beforehand what degree of aptitude you might have?

>> No.1830557

>>1830522
Why do you want to be an employee so bad? Build a business or buy one with loaned money. Banks are your friend.

>> No.1830607

First full program ran on the mori today, feels pretty good. Might play with 2axis turning some more then move on to milling.

>> No.1830649
File: 197 KB, 500x281, 1550098762545.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830649

Question regarding punch dies. I have a cheap one, and it makes a fairly nice cut, but in some spots it can end up wobbly or deformed a bit. Is there a way to do a finish on this to clean up it and make it more round. Or do I just need to bite the bullet and get better dies?

>> No.1830656

>>1812267
can someone tell me what lapping plates are for? I would assume they are for lapping surfaces but I'm retarded and nothing on google answers my question. if you're using it to flatten something, wouldn't the lapping plate also wear down and you'd get a non-flat surface? also, lapping plates always have those grooves on the surface, doesn't that cause inconsistent wear on the thing you're trying to flatten?

I'm asking this because I feel making my own lapping plates using the three-plate method would be a good way to get started in metrology and mechanical precision, but I'm not sure what I would use them for once I finished them.

>> No.1830723

>spend all afternoon making a part
>accidentally counterbore the wrong side and have to scrap it
aaaaaaaaaaaa
why am I so slow at manual machining? it shouldn't take me 4 hours to make some mini vice jaws

>> No.1830725

>>1826175 here,
So I'm having a problem now where the X axis isn't responding to positive input. Mach3 says it's adding distance on the digital read out panel, but it doesn't actually move. I swapped out the X and Y cables on the controller (G540), and the Y motor did the same thing, so it's not the motor. Then I swapped the output on the pins in Mach3 similarly, and it still had that issue, so it's not software, and it's not the parallel port.
So the problem seems to be in the controller itself, but I I don't know shit about that, so I don't really even know where to look.

>> No.1830734

>>1830725
Also the trim screw for the X axis came pre-rounded-out. Thanks cunts.

>> No.1830747

I'm surprised. I bought some cheap AE tooling to see how it was ($2 for the equivalent metric size and coating vs $13) and bought some coated carbide tungsten steel crap, which appears to actually be solid cemented carbide. Definitely denser than steel and not as magnetic.

>> No.1830751
File: 1.05 MB, 1500x2250, pedal.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830751

What should I do for making something like this much cleaner? I don't have a shop but I can buy tools, I have plans for a drill press and a disk sander. But just want to see what would be the best options for cleaning up parts like this, so they don't look so jank.

As a note I'm still really new to this. This is my second piece (I'm like 2 days into this stuff) and first one like this, Really only have some tin snips, a brake and some other small stuff. I do "have" a die punch, but it was a cheap Harbor Freight one, and it's jammed and just won't come apart. I'll probably have to pick up a vice and hit it with my impact to get that thing going again, but I'll probably just drop the money on a nice one instead. I'm sure that alone would fix these horrible holes.

>> No.1830768

>>1830751
a vise and a file

>> No.1830782

>>1830768
Alright, but what's an easier way that won't take several hours.

>> No.1830784

>>1830751
Drill press with a countersink would clean up the edges of the holes real nice.

>> No.1830806
File: 216 KB, 1920x1080, mpv-shot0001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830806

>>1830360
Don't bother, they're hot garbage. The customer service and technical support is awful and spare parts are unobtainium. Shop where I work bought a bunch of these many years ago and they only had problems with them and ultimately changed them for new kitagawas which the shuck had originally replaced. We used them for small batch production jobs, and they'd get full of chips and crap and it would make the mechanism extremely stiff and hard to disengage after a few weeks of work. Ideally you'd want to clean them once a week or two but my boss doesn't want the machines to stop, so they didn't get serviced until the mechanism jammed tight. Another problem we had is every time we disassemble and reassemble it to clean it out, the runout of all the jaws would become off by .01" to .03", no matter how careful they where to reassemble it correctly. We had hundreds of sets of jaws and they'd have to be re machined every time it was cleaned. Another problem we had is that they're two piece jaws with the upper and lower teethed section, our boss didn't want to buy a bunch of sets of lowers because they where to expensive so jaw changes where actually longer then traditional jaws since you have to fight the mechanism and then disassemble the lower half off to put it on the next set of uppers. Another issue is chips would lodge themselves in between the teeth mechanism on the chuck and the quick change jaw and make them stiff to remove, so you'd have to disengage the mechanism for the jaw and then hammer out the jaw with a dead blow hammer, not exactly as smooth as they show. Also the mechanism is frail and the parts can be hard to get as I mentioned. As someone who worked with those for years they're pretty finicky and miserable to work with, fuck them.

>> No.1830839

>>1830751
>>1830649

if the die and punch edges arent sharp, also try to do it in one hit. how thick is material? you might5 throw more burrs if you have to much punch clearance, try doing it while sandwiched in 2 pieces of paper

>> No.1830959

>>1830723
a lot of the efficiency gains are going to be small things like having a clipboard next to the mill so you can have your print held up where you can see it

>> No.1830963

>>1830806
whew, kind of a disappointment.

I decided since I bought a tiny 3/8 drive cordless impact for changing chuck jaws already I don't need a fancy chuck.

>> No.1830968

>>1830806
apparently Lang makes similar chucks, wonder if they are equally as garbage

>> No.1830980

>>1830839
It's a pittsburge die, I'm not sure how you can have any clearance when it's right up against the sheet metal and only 22 gauge.

>> No.1830985

>>1830751
pin diameter for clearance, depends on sheet metal thickness

looks like it's set for thicker stock

>> No.1831006
File: 81 KB, 500x468, index.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1831006

>>1830968
No clue, but what you have to understand is that a normal hydraulic chuck has ~4 moving parts, and the schunk has 10 if you don't include the quick change jaws, that adds more points of failure and places for crap to get into. A kitagawa can go without service for a long time and work fine without any issue (it would wear it out faster over time however). I'm sure in a tool room or one off production setting they're a nice gadgets but it doesn't work in a production setting. The guy who buys the tooling told me the big local manufacturer bought a fleet of them and they ended up junking them after a year, we stuck with them for ~5 years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrsptNXpMXE

>> No.1831020
File: 1.72 MB, 1756x1360, 1580330672715.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1831020

Small program to drill hole in end of workpiece with live tool (axial), get message "EX2002 Y axis not possible to move" I halfway suspect it has to do with turret being all the way at X0 but I don't know for sure.

:1002
G0 G20 G40 G80 G96 G99

N100(DRILL1)
G0 G53 X0.
G0 G53 Z0.
M69 (SPINDLE BRAKE UNCLAMP)
G54
G98 G17 M45 (C AXIS JOINT)
M321 (Y AXIS UNLOCK)
G0 G28 H0.
T0909
M8
G97 S1500 M13 (ROTARY TOOL SPINDLE START)
G0 Z0.6
X1.3416 Y0. C63.435
G80
G0 Z0.2
G83 C63.435 Z-0.5 R0. F25. M68
G80
G0 Z0.6
M5 (ROTARY TOOL SPINDLE STOP)
M9

G0 G53 X0.
G0 G53 Z0.
(Y AXIS UNLOCK)
G0 G53 Y0.
M320 (Y AXIS LOCK) <--- PROBLEM "Y axis not possible to move"
M46 (C AXIS JOINT RELEASE)
G54

M30


So the thing is, the Y axis lock macro moves the Y axis up a little before inserting the base block (base block is a literal steel block that a hydraulic ram pushes between Y axis slide and base, to keep it from moving even under extreme turning load; then moves the Y axis back down onto the block).

>> No.1831022

>>1831006
I'm totally over it, no fancy chucks for me.

>> No.1831149

NEW

>NE W

>>1831147