/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Finished my first decent-ish print after calibrating my machine, kinda glad with how it turned out.

>>1809440
Congratulations and welcome! What orientation did you print it at? If as pictured, you might want to add another top layer to help close off those gaps next time. In my experience, when you have <40% infill, additional walls and top layers help to make sure it's not holey.

>>1809401
What >>1809411, plus fuckers are jumping on the bandwagon and buying up 3D printers so you see headlines like "5 year old prints hundreds of masks for hospital!" for brownie points

I've got my first printer on order, but it doesn't ship for 5-6 weeks, so I'm going to take that time to set up a workstation for it. I'd like to have space for the printer (duh), space to do post-processing on the prints, and storage for tools and materials.
My current plan is to have two deep drawers (~12") and one shallow drawer (~3") on the left side of the desk under the printer, with another shallow drawer (~1") on the right side of the desk under my post-processing space.
Any other advice/suggestions/pics of other people's setups would be greatly appreciated.

>>1809440
u n d e r e x t r u s i o n

Someone last thread was talking about dual wire gantry, are there any proven printers that have used it? I only see one wip from like 5 years ago

Anyone got a good "steel"-coloured metal filament I can get in Europe (Sweden)? The ones I find recommended are all either Chinese or American, and I neither want to wait two months nor pay a year's salary worth of shipping. I'm printing parts for an RC DeLorean, so I want a filament with actual metal powder that I can polish up to look half decent. PETG or ABS would be ideal, but I'll happily take PLA if you know a good one.

Reason I'm asking is because I've been burnt twice now. I've from amazon.de ordered "steel petg", which turned out to be gray with glitter, and "aluminium pla" which was just gray, and from 3dprima "silver petg" which was better but still just gray with glitter.
>>1809476
Pic is my current rig. It's in a walk-in closet. The printer is on a table made out of a wall shelf, the other table is just my old desk, the screen and keyboard are just old junk I plugged into the octopi to justify not throwing them out when I got my new stuff. I've got a bunch of tools on shelves in there, so it's kind of a miniature workshop. Current upgrade plan is to install a webcam on the octopi and setting it up so I can check on the printer from my phone, but the camera is stuck in shipping. On the other wall is more shelves. On these I have my computer and a bunch of assortment boxes for bolts and springs and such. Computer wires go through a hole in the wall to my office on the other side, which means all my heat-generating electronics are confined to this 2m2 unventilated room, keeping the rest of my apartment comfy cool.

>>1809460
Hmm, not sure how to add additional layers yet but I'll look into it

>>1809483
100% is not enough?

>>1809512
Did you measure and set your e-steps correctly? Even if you did sometimes you need smaller print level tweaks

>find cool project on thingyverse
>print first part
>all bearing fits are way off, loose like a roasty
>check f3d file, print fits withing 0.01mm
>measure bearing
>the fucker sized all holes wrong by 0.4mm to compensate his 0int
Great, now i have to resize all holes and interfaces and export the whole thing again

>>1809544
what is it?

I've recently started having a problem where my bowden tube is becoming detached from my hotend. What do I need to fix/replace to stop this? It's an Ender 3 that I upgraded with a microswiss all metal hotend. I also recently put a 1mm nozzle on the end, so I guess filament is being pushed through at a faster rate than before.

>>1809553
It's probably that your fitting on the hotend is weak. Bigger nozzle means higher pressure, and that's probably what's popping the tube off. Most of these PTFE fittings are replaceable, just buy a sturdier one than the one that came with the hotend.

>>1809553
replace the fittings and bowden tube, the stock ones are shit. i recently replaced mine because filament was getting harder to pull until it broke inside the fitting

Does anyone use octoprint + a wifi plug for emergency PSU shutoff? Is WeMo worth paying 2x for or is any TP-Link fine?

>>1809544
>>1809551
some sort of pedals?

>>1809556
>>1809560
Thank you for the responses.

>replace the PTFE fitting
Can I replace that on the microswiss hotend? I don't see a way to detach it. Do I need to replace the entire cooling block assembly?

>set up ender 3
>test print some shit
>everything comes out perfectly
>after a week decide to level the bed again just to make sure
>then the nozzle started bumping into the print
>lower the bed
>now the first 1 or 2 layers are always trash where they stick out the sides of the print and randomly throughout the bottom layer there will be clumping
what the fuck did i do and how do i go back to the way it was when i knew less

>>1809567
You almost certainly can replace the PTFE fitting somehow. It would be a super strange design of hotend if you couldn't.
https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/spare-parts/products/replacement-bowden-collets-for-micro-swiss-cr10-hotend-kit-set-of-3
The picture for this implies that all you'd need to do is pull it out. Presumably they use a similar design for all their Creality stuff, so your Ender hotend should be the same.

Another option you might want to consider is replacing your PTFE. If you use the stock tube, it's pretty shit. A tube like the ugly blue Capricorn ones will have a tighter inner diameter, which helps with print quality, and a slightly wider outer diameter, which helps the fitting hold onto it. Mine is maybe a tenth of a millimeter wider than the generic tube I got with my printer.

Also another option is to dump Micro Swiss and go for a direct drive extruder. Bondtech BMG and E3D both have very good options for that. You get much better prints from having no PTFE, but you might need to slightly reduce speeds.

>>1809581
should have bought a prusa

>>1809544
>the fucker sized all holes wrong by 0.4mm to compensate his 0int
I'll shamefully admit that I used to size holes for M3 bolts at 3.2 to compensate for my printer. Getting the horizontal expansion in my slicer set up was a life changer, I could finally simply measure things and model them the correct size instead of guessing at how much slack would be appropriate. In my defence, nowhere does the slicer indicate that the option even exists to a newbie. I had to turn on custom settings and browse through a huge list to even find the option.

>>1809595
ngl, you do not need horizontal expansion to nail <0.06 accuracy

>>1809581
oem springs are kinda iffy. there are like $10-$15 upgrade kits on ebay with capricorn tube, all-metal extruder, and yellow bed springs

>>1809598
What do you mean?

>>1809603
thanks ill pick it up. any other tips i might not have picked up yet?

>>1809512
>>1809522
don't get hung up on e-steps.
just do the same print with 110% flow/extrusion rate in the slicer and see what happens.
Your pic shows underextrusion in the horizontal fill pattern.

>>1809603
100% bs post
Springs do what they do - they expand. No rocket science behind that.
All metal isn't necessary at all
Don't fix problems you don't have.

>>1809581
Check if your z-limit switch is screwed down tight
Relevel your bed. If it's crubling your bed is too close to the nozzle

>>1809635
ok
no one's filament has ever saw'd off the extruder arm
no one's springs have lost their springiness over time
no one's tube has ever needed replacing

How much does a repeal usually cost to build?

>>1809643
Reprap* damn autocorrect

>>1809641
>no one's filament has ever saw'd off the extruder arm
what

>no one's springs have lost their springiness over time
Yeah, if that happens you need to replace them. My stock ender 3 and cr-10 springs work perfectly fine after years. And even if they would become weak, the effect would be the opposite of crubling filament.

>no one's tube has ever needed replacing
Sure if it's done, replace it. The bowden tube is a cheap replacement part.
Printer kilos of 260°C PETG with the stock chink bowden and hotend, just sayin.

A lot of people think their issues come from not using a all-metal hotend or stock springs or stock fans or whatver modding fantasy. Mostly it's just something else

>>1809643
If you're sourcing everything yourself, around the same price as a kit more or less. You mostly get fucked by shipping and having to source from multiple vendors. Unless you're speccing something out super specific

Is there any reason why wheels have a bad reputation?

>>1809581
take a deep breath
watch a video about how to level the bed
then level the bed again
also clean the bottom of the nozzle

looking to buy a resin printer. im starting to see stuff about the bigger elagoo mars printer but i guess theres still no release date or price.
should i just wait for that at this point?
mostly using my trump bucks to pay for a printer so price isnt exactly an issue but im hoping its still reasonably priced

>>1809581
This is why every printer should have a fixed bed and just have auto bed leveling.

>>1809673
I would start with a smaller one unless you're absolutely sure you need the big size

>>1809544
I quite like the idea, but I'm not convinced his cam follower has enough rigidity.

Any advice on printing living hinges? I don't have a particular material in mind, so I'm open to suggestions there.

>>1809645
>>no one's filament has ever saw'd off the extruder arm
>what
The Ender does have a known problem where, with the spool mounted on the top of the printer and it not coming with a filament guide, the filament will eventually bite into the arm of the extruder.

The solution, of course, is to print a filament guide off of thingiverse, not to buy a chink metal extruder kit.

>>1809714
>plastic filament erodes plastic
>therefore, the fix is to print more plastic and introduce more friction to the filament
jesus. it's just a neat little kit that includes some universally-agreed-upon useful upgrades. it's up to anon how to spend their money

>>1809551
Looks like flight pledals. Have a CH set myself.

>>1809718
The difference is that the printable filament guide costs you a few cents worth of PLA and lasts for years, It's really just a cosmetic thing, the extruder itself has a metal gear and a metal bearing pushing it into the bowden, those won't wear out any time soon, and you can solve the problem entirely without any wear to any component by just placing your spool to the side of the extruder instead of on top of the printer. There are brackets you can print to mount the holder on the bottom of the frame, or you could just print one of those tiny stands and put the spool on the table instead. "Upgrade kits" on the other hand come with overpriced and highly dubious "upgrades". The stock Ender 3 extruder is actually pretty good, the chink aluminium ones are universally shit. The springs aren't a part that needs to be upgraded. If you really want to you could put washers on, I suppose, but you can get those for free in a hardware store, and coincidentally if you actually think spring sturdiness is a relevant trait in a printer, you can get new springs there too. The PTFE actually doesn't need to be replaced particularly often. If you're that worried about it degrading, just unplug the extruder and cut off the bottom half centimetre to get a fresh piece in contact with the hotend, but assuming you're printing stuff colder than 230 degrees (PLA, PETG...) your PTFE tube will probably outlast the printer.

>>1809665
They're not as precise as shafts, and since 3d printers don't really need the rigidity the aluminum extrusions can offer shafts are better.
Now for CNC machines they're a great poverty tier compromise.

just got an ender 3

printed a stand for my gba games oh my god I love this thing

what should I make?

>>1809770

>>1809770
>>1809772
as someone that still collects physical copies of games, honestly im not a fan of that design. mostly because the games in the middle are being blocked so you dont know what they are. especially since gba games dont have side labels.
if it was more of an upward tier system showing off each game so you know what they are then that would be neat.
sorry, just being a bit nitpicky. im sure this works out for you and are probably just using it as general storage.

>>1809767
But do 3D printers need the precision of shafts or rails either?

>>1809790
yeah this is just really nice storage for me not going to be displayed

>>1809793
Might as well go with more precision if rigidity is not an issue, it's not like the price is too dissimilar

>>1809489
I'm the one guy that brings it up all the time and no I don't know any other printers that use it.
I bring it up because people seem to be stuck thinking its only core-xy vs H-bot out there.
I think a dw-g with belts instead of fishing line would combine the advantages of core-xy and H-bot. I'd like to have that thought challanged by anons with different opinions so I can develop a better understanding.
My point is that dw-g doesn't need crossing belt paths and equally tensioned belts like core-xy. It also doesn't have the torque about the moving axis of the h-bot.
And it even works with multiple X-carriages.

>>1809732
this nigga gets it

I've desinged some weird ass tea continers and I'm thinking to put them on Etsy.
Anyone ever sold something on Etsy? Is it worth the effort?

>>1809678
its a slide that grabs the extrusion on 3 sides
just tinker with the fit and there will be no flex

>>1809544
>>1809595
I'm trying to make sense of what you try to tell us

>I'll shamefully admit that I used to size holes for M3 bolts at 3.2 to compensate for my printer.
Going 3.2 and more for M3 is pretty much standard. Not only in 3D printing but also machining. It's even standardized.

>Getting the horizontal expansion in my slicer set up was a life changer
what? Why would you mess with that? The slicer in standard setting would put out x and y as 1x scale. If you need to mess with that something in your printers firmware/steppers/belts is going horribly wrong to have x and y out of scale.

>I could finally simply measure things and model them the correct size
??

>guessing at how much slack would be appropriate
print the printer tolerance gauge by makers muse to see what tolerance has how much play with your printer and filament.
A way to really fine tune tolerance fit is the flow/extrusion rate. Randomize your z-seam for round fittings so the seam gets distributen evenly around the circumference.

>>1809865
>what? Why would you mess with that? The slicer in standard setting would put out x and y as 1x scale. If you need to mess with that something in your printers firmware/steppers/belts is going horribly wrong to have x and y out of scale.
This isn't a setting to fix printer calibration.
It's to compensate for the plastic expanding after getting extruded.

pedal poster here
>>1809865
>If you need to mess with that something in your printers firmware/steppers/belts is going horribly wrong to have x and y out of scale.
dud you realize there's more than one way to mount a horse
X/Y/Z steps are machine specific. they get calculated out of pulley size/thread pitch and you should absolutely never touch them
>The slicer in standard setting would put out x and y as 1x scale
it does not. not for PLA
Taking Cura, standard Flow rate is same for PLA/ABS but i guarantee you, print a 20x20 cube out of abs and its waaaay closer to 3d model size than the pla one
>makers muse
opinion thrown in the garbage
>>1809866
plastic shrinks after being extruded (but different depending on a lot of shit)
What you extrude is more dense than whats on the filament roll. There is a name for this but it escaped me.

What horizontal expansion really does is compensate for over extrusion by making the part smaller

>>1809865
>>1809866
>>1809868
>A way to really fine tune tolerance fit is the flow/extrusion rate
Oh and flow rate can't really fix that.

The problem is you're not getting a perfectly round shape of extruded filament, it's slightly oval shaped instead - so it's too large/small in the xy plane only. You can not compensate for that with flow rate alone since you'd end up with something too small/big in height instead then.

>>1809415
I just came in to say Fusion 360 is fucking amazing. I had been using 123D and Tinkercad

>>1809866
>>1809868
>>1809869
Didn't know that, thanks. I'll check it out in the slicer

>>1809770
>>1809772
>>1809790
I would just angle the slots 45 degrees and maybe space them a bit further apart. That way you'd see the labels. You could also rotate them 45 degrees and angle them only 15 or something, would let you display them in a bookcase or such pretty nicely.

>>1809876
Oh boy, wait until you try Solidworks with a 3D mouse ("Spacemouse" in my country).

>>1809889
Fusion with 3DX>SW + 3DX

>>1809770
>>1809772
Why the fuck are you tripfagging!?

>>1809900

>>1809868
When you print there's a slight squishing effect, plastic is extruded and will flow out to the sides slightly. Inside this isn't a problem, infill gets slightly weaker in the Z axis since there's slightly less contact area (plastic can easily flow onto the sides) and in the walls you get perfect contact area since the filament will be walled in from all sides, but the outermost line has one direction free to flow into, so it will (slightly). Horizontal expansion is used to compensate for that. If you were to describe dimension error of a print as a mathematical function, it could look like sx+d, where s is scale and d is "deviation", like the horizontal squish.

If you print a 100cm part and it turns out 101cm wide, and a 200cm part becomes 202cm wide, your error is caused by the scale factor. If you print a 100cm part and it turns out 101cm wide, and a 200cm part becomes 201cm wide, your error is caused by the horizontal expansion (it's a constant error).

My slicer settings right now are 99.5% multiplier to X, 100% multiplier to y, and 0.1mm horizontal expansion. I also have 0.15mm initial layer horizontal expansion, since no matter how carefully I tune my settings the only way I can get a good-looking first layer is by printing slightly too close, which causes "elephant foot" effect, which initial layer expansion fixes.

>>1809902
literally all you see is a hand

>>1809900
though this is a fair point
you can kinda tell who some anons are because they talk about the same things over and over and their prints look same-ish, we'll apparently be able to tell by your fingernails???

>>1809770
>>1809772
sand the sides, back looks great
there are a lot of upgrades for your ender 3 you can print. you can print a photo sweep so you don't have to hold shit you want to take a picture of

>>1809908
your error simply expressed is
The slicer tells the printer to lay a 0.4mm wide line but it is not 0.4mm wide!
On fast lines you go bellow, on slow lines and corners you go over.
People look at this for example >>1809440 and tell him his layer is not closed, up the flow, but this only worsens everything.
Perimeters are slow, thus you get too much plastic on and just like you wrote this results in visible layer lines and undersized holes.
Pic related, dialed in extrusion and no modifier to part size. Ive drawn it as 22.00 hole

>>1809770
>>1809772
>>1809900
>>1809902
>>1809912
I'm trans btw, idk if that matters :)

>>1809920
Lol, you can't take a caliper and stick it into an inner diameter like that and brag on the internet its 0.01 accurate.
You have no clue on measuring theory.

>and tell him his layer is not closed, up the flow, but this only worsens everything.
Adventurous claim you make there

After 45 minutes I can finally tell time if the sun is out.

>>1809954
>nooooooo you cant do that
everybody with 2 brain cells knows the last digit on any measuring instrument is not accurate.
and if i dont own a bore gauge i use whats available to me

>>1809823
Is it even proven that dual wire gantry is a correct motion system? It travels the same distance per step consistently along full lengths of X or Y, can do circles/arcs correctly, is predictable, etc?

>>1809954
>measuring theory

If everyone knows what is meant there's no issue.

>>1809961
Its literally one motor for X and one for Y.
If you use belts you won't even have to worry about spooling displacement.

>>1809920
great, now do the same on a 2mm hole.

Igus bearings > linear rails
Prove me wrong

>>1810031
First state the reason for your statement

>>1810033
no

I'm making a steampunk power armour. I want to use steel fill and wood fill for some parts, am I going to need to do any treatment after sanding and polishing to make them stay pretty?

>>1810028
Corexy is routinely incorrectly implemented because often the belt runs are not parallel to the tracks/rails, which results in the movement per step changing as the carriage moves from the center of an axis to the end of an axis. Things dont just work because you pull on them there's literally a correct way to design motion systems and a correct way to implement them too and it has to be proven and demonstrated

>>1810031
They're plastic so bound to wear quicker than lubed metal on metal and they're really expensive for the LM8UU equivalents, which are the metal encased bearings not the all plastic ones

>>1810058
yeah but they're still an order of magnitude cheaper than muh HIWIN MGN12H rails

How do you guys print anything that is overhanging? Any figures with breasts seem hard since their tits are hanging out like a cliff and the extruder has nowhere to put the pla other than in the middle of the air

>>1810069
Well they're also not as rigid or stable as rails. Rails are an unnecessarily high end solution for a non-problem unless you have a super massive printer. Although Igus makes some really expensive rail systems themselves

>>1810070
Supports.

>>1810070
test how much overhang your printer can handle, Cura will highlight the sections that exceed that and you can decide if a bridge is enough or supports are needed
you can download and start playing with the software before you get the printer

Hey /3dpg/, newbie here. Which one should I buy in the next couple hours, Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3X?
The 3 Pro has a wider Y-axis support but the 3X comes with more upgraded parts. I am planning to get an extruder upgrade mod with capricorn tube right away as well.

>>1810084
Pro
nozzles are cheap and I dislike my glass bed, you can decide later if you really want it

I got some PVA for printing soluble supports. Unwrapped the spool, did some test prints with PLA, and after some tweaking they came out beautiful.
But half a rainy day later, the PVA doesn't print for shit. Pops and steams, dribbles when idle and doesn't extrude when it's time to.
I thought I could get away with not having a drybox for a while, but I was very very wrong.
Now begins the experiments with drying the PVA in an oven. Anybody done this before? I've read conflicting information but I'm leaning towards trying to dry it at 60C.

>>1810073
Like a bra?

>>1810084
just get the regular ender 3, it's reliable with a couple printed upgrades but upgrading the coupling fittings and tubing is a good investment because they will fail eventually

>>1810084
Get the cheaper one and spend the money on auto bed leveling upgrades

>>1810056
Ability to implement the system wrong means it's not a solid concept?
You can shit up any belt system if you put the belts off axis.

>>1810070
Turn on supports, print at 0.1mm thick layers, and tilt the print backwards. The thinner your layers, the better your printer handles overhangs. I find that PLA can easily take 70 degree angles with thinner layers like .12 or .1. Also tilting backwards usually works when printing figurines, since backs are usually fairly static. Mostly I print D&D figures though, which is less breasts and more hats, arms, swords and such, but the principle is the same. Tilting backwards with supports on should make the print just as sturdy, but give you a less acute overhang angle toward the front, where I'm assuming your high quality boobs are. Also lower the support threshold trigger. Usually angles lower than 60 degrees won't need supports, but if they print anyway they'll connect very slightly with the print and help stabilise it, which is critical when you tilt something back. They'll be easy to break off since they're so loosely connected, and often you won't even need to sand over the connection points, they'll be so small.

>>1810084
Also how important is a cover for the printer? The one listed for the Ender 3 and 5 series seems quite expensive for what it is.

>>1810114
you only need one for materials like abs that warps with low ambient temperatures

>>1810114
zero percent, there are SO many more upgrades you should get first (in addition to what you listed)
>BLTouch
>better board with silent drivers
>rPi
>silent fans (don't fall for the noctua meme, there are good 24v fans)

>>1810116
You don't need to buy an rPi - any old junk pc/laptop will do for octoprint.

>>1810115
I'll be learning with PLA and maybe the harder kind of TPU.
Does PETG need an enclosure? I read it is better to handle than ABS and just as strong

>>1810070
We are all good Christians here and don't have this problem

>>1810118
true, but not everyone has one sitting around. plus the rPi only draws 5v so you can power it from the PSU with a buck converter and save a few bucks a month on electricity

>>1810114
Only necessary for certain types of filament, like ABS and Nylon. Nylon is very good, but difficult to print. PLA and PETG don't need an enclosure, and they'll be good for everything 99% of users will ever print.
Just buy your printer to begin with. Use it for a month or two, and buy upgrades for it as you discover a need for them. The stock Ender 3 is honestly a pretty solid printer. The only upgrades I would consider worthwhile is direct drive if you want to print flex filaments (think rubber), a removable print bed for ease of removal (PEI on a magnetic steel plate is my recommendation there), BLTouch auto leveling if you print a lot and want the machine to be a bit more hands off, and an all-metal hotend if you do want to print stuff like nylon. None of these are mandatory, and I'd recommend every new user to not bother until they're sure they need these things. Honestly, the stock Ender is good value for money, but if you plan to upgrade it from the beginning you're better off just buying a Prusa or SK-GO instead.

>>1810116
>rPi
What is it used for on the printer? BLTouch and the others I understand, but putting on a rPi where only basic controls needed seems excessive.

>>1810123
Different anon, is the creality magnetic bed good or known to be trash? I've mostly been printing on the glass bed but I've had it laying around and maybe I should give it a try.

>>1810125
It's the same bed material as the stock bed, but since it's magnetic you can pull it off and bend it to pop prints off. Adhesion-wise it's quite good, I print PETG and PLA and they stick well. Durability wise I'd say it's mediocre, after a few dozen prints there's noticeable wear, but adhesion isn't strongly affected. Usage-wise it's not great, the removable plate is less of a plate and more of a sheet, so if you print something very large just pulling it off the printer can be a bit difficult, it's just not stiff enough, and when you bend it to pop the print off it's easy to bend it too strongly in one spot, causing a permanent crease in the surface at the edge of the print. Cleaning it is a bit bad, the surface is gritty and if you rub it hard enough to get filament scraps out you're going to rub off the actual print surface... As a
As a low-cost buildtak it's great, but I'd say buildtak as a whole is a few years obsolete now.

If you want to buy a magnetic bed, get a steel sheet with PEI. https://www.3dprima.com/se/accessories/print-surface/pei-ultem/primacreator-flexplate-pei-235-x-235-mm/a-24100/ This kind of stuff. Adhesion is great, and since it's a relatively stiff steel sheet it's actually much easier to remove from the bed even with a large print, it's much easier to actually get the print off of the bed, and it's crazy durable. I've been using mine for almost a year and it's still okay. I do have two patches where the PEI cracked and tiny pieces fell off, but you can print over them just fine. The surface does have "scrapes" all over from where prints adhered extra well and marred the surface, but you can't see that on the prints themselves and adhesion is still great. It's a smooth plate, so your prints will have reflective and smooth surfaces and it's easy to wash off, just splash on some isopropanol, rub it with a soft cloth, and let the alcohol evaporate when the bed heats up. I go for weeks between cleaning with no problem.

>>1810107
No, the fact that it's completely unproven and the guy who invented it didn't even bother finishing the flagbearing printer tells me it's not a solid concept but solid concepts are at least provable on paper.

What if I want a sanic speed printer but don't like corexy
what do?

>>1810138
Ultimaker like

>>1810138
very small cartesian,
linear or rotary delta

>>1810084
Prusa i3

>>1810138
Very ridgid frame, high mass stationary parts (likenthe frame) and low mass moving parts. You could get reasonably fast with a top mounted XY cartesian like the ender 5.

>>1810148
>rotary delta
Hadn't heard of that before, that's really cool.

>>1810138
modded ultimakers can get insanely fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3DGRFMsU00

what brand PLA do you like? my favorite brand is all sold out. I liked it because I could turn off the heated bed after the first layer and save energy

>>1810124
look up octoprint. as other anons have pointed out, it's not strictly necessary, but I'm tryna keep energy usage down.

>>1810135
It's comonly used in cranes though.

>>1810175
I'm sure cranes have more rigorous engineering. How does the simple winch on the dual gantry ensure that the lengths of wire being reeled or released remains consistent as the gantry moves across the build plate?

>>1810182
As I said, just use belts instead.

>>1809489
>>1809961
>>1810135
>dual wire gantry
>unproven
Don't the Stratasys Fortus industrial printers use this system?

>>1810185
If it were that simple I'm sure we'd be seeing more printers use it. In theory it has the advantages of cartesian and corexy, it would be ideal.

>>1810187
No clue, maybe no one uses it because it's a legal minefield then

>>1810195
Can someone explain why "dw-g" is superior to corexy?

>>1810200
Fixed motors like corexy, but independent XY so you can do idex and you don't have to deal with uneven belt tension when setting up the belts. Corexy calls for even belt tension because they're used together to control X or Y

>>1810200
No crossed belt paths, no need for equal belt tension.

I'm thinking of rather than trying to look for someone to scan a piece, I could just take good pictures from every angle of it and go at it on digimizer so I can just make a model I can work with on solidworks.
Are there any issues with my plan?

My new Ender 3 Pro is working on my first print!!

I sneaked a touch and could tell it was pretty rough on the side. I guess I'll have to fine tune.

This shit is magic though.

>>1810224
Jelly. I just placed the order on my Ender 3 Pro, have to wait at least a week until I can start building it.

>>1810226
>>1810224
Wait, does the Ender 3 come with a spool of PLA?

>>1810232
Yeah but it's a tiny amount.

>>1810232
just a meter of white silk pla

>>1810224
wow what a thing deserving of 3d printing: a fucking box with some holes in it. wtf i loev 3d printing now, 3d printing is the ONLY way to make a part

>>1810237
Glad we won you over anon.

>>1810235
>>1810233
Shit, I better order a couple spools.
What are some good quality PLA I can order on Amazon in the EU and come in 500g spools?

What slicer software are you guys using? I hadn't used the printer for a few months, updated cura and this piece of shit is unusable. I tried all the fixes posted on their forums and it's just slow as shit. I even brought my personal laptop to work with the older version just to get this shit project started.

Ok seems like Anycubic Mega S might be a good babbys first printer for around 250-300 eur, but I don't see it mentioned in the OP. what do you guys think? am i gonna get chink'd?

Is there a way I can use the LCD ribbon cable to extend the BLTouch cable?

>>1810244
Almost every spool is 1kg, you can find .5kg ones but the choice is much more limited.
For PLA quality doesn't matter much, it's hard to get chinked. Check tolerances, 0.02mm advertised is pretty good, and check reviews - you'll often find an autist with calipers saying "yup, it's as advertised" (or, much more rarely, "bullshit, their tolerances are garbage").

What are the disadvantages of delta again? Why's everyone creaming themselves over corexy?

>>1810330
awkward build volume for a lot of stuff and can't take a direct extruder (anycubic has an interesting delta with a flying extruder though)

>>1810332
Is the built volume generally small? It seems like it would be trivial to scale up the build volume for cheap to counteract that.
No direct drive is definitely a disadvantage, but if you mount a direct drive aren't you negating the advantages of using a desing with super light moving parts, anyway? (Also, what exactly stops a direct drive from being mounted on a delta, anyway?)

Is there any way to p!r@te fusion 360?

>start cura
>all my profiles have deleted themselves

>>1810339
it's free for personal/noncom use

>>1810341
What if I want to use it for more than a year and sometimes sell some of my prints for money?

>>1810337
>Is the built volume generally small?
It's not small, but it's cylindrical (so if you want to print something square, a 200mm build plate would only allow for 140x140mm) and most of it is height.
Scaling up deltas does bring problems with the required longer rods and longer bowden tube.

A direct extruder also adds mass and puts force on the effector - there are people who experimented with stuff like remote drive extruder on deltas though.

>>1810345
unless you're making over $100 000 a year it's still free

>>1810345
>>1810341
Also I like not having to log in to some distant company's server to use a software.

>>1810339
Everything about it is designed for cloud saving, so it's probably really difficult to pirate. Sort of like MS Office, except a thousand times smaller client base, so it's doubtful any cracker feels like putting the effort in.

Solidworks is pretty easy to pirate though, and I expect the same goes for AutoCAD. These are sort of like "big brother" versions of Fusion. Bigger and uglier, but a few more features. Plus if you get good at them you can get certified and actually work in design, few companies are willing to bother with Fusion since it's not really an industry level CAD.

>>1810330
>Why's everyone creaming themselves over corexy?
Other than independent extruders it's a good generalist. You can do direct drive and still go fast, or you can do bowden and go HAYAI. And it scales really well because at most you just have a floating X-axis, usually an aluminum extrusion to mount your rail/rod/etc on. If you try to do a normal cartesian with a moving bed that bed can get really bad as you scale up. And you can also do a XYZ gantry like the voron with a true fixed bed. It's just really flexible, although a top mounted cartesian like the ender 5 could probably do most of the same stuff, albeit heavier

>>1809900
trannies are attention whores

Finally set up the Ender 5 I got for Christmas. The only location where I could put it is in my exercise room. Do I need an enclosure to keep from deeply breathing in fumes and particles when it is printing? I'm only going to be using PLA to start with.

>>1810382
nah, abs smells bad (and you'll need an enclosure for temperature management anyway) but isn't really dangerously toxic, most other stuff is harmless too, at least pla and petg definitely are

>>1809772
>>1809770
went ahead and got this shelving unit to put it on

what are some things I should make?

>>1810382
Honestly it's best if you vent it out a window. Plastics create microparticles

>>1810389
Fuck off tripfag.

>>1810389
are you from toronto

>>1810460
no I live in new brunswick why

>>1810462
why are you tripfagging

>>1810389
pokemans

>>1809502
iirc 3dprima is based in sweden and germany, and their own silver pla looks pretty steel-ish

This is a really dumb question, but what exactly are the build dimensions of a Prusa mk3? The website says 250x210x210 mm, but doesn't specify which axis each of those numbers corresponds to.

>>1809770
wow, that's gay.

>>1810389
>what should i make
A proper print station / enclosure. Fuck.

>>1810608
More than likely x y z.

>>1810608
>>1810617
This anon's correct, though IIRC the Z height is actually 220

>>1810615
can I see yours?

>>1810623
Not him, but you don't have any sort of dampening for the vibrations and the rocking the printer is going to cause. Move it down a shelf or two. Also recommend getting some sort of bar that holds the spool that's attached to the shelf, so it isn't resting on the printer frame.
Not sure why you would have a noisy printer like that in your living room either.

>>1809415
Just bought an ender 5, how fucked am I?

>>1810623
I have a drybox for my filament and a cardboard enclosure for my CR-10. It's not pretty but it can print nylon. Solid oak desk for a foundation. I'll post pics when I have it set up permanently in its new home.

>>1809675
this, I simply bolted mine in place and it's a much nicer experience.

>>1809581
I have a printed gauge bracket to check my shit, but a piece of paper is really all thats needed. I print into ABS for everything but nylon and for the most part it works well. I can go months without leveling because my prints stick with no fucks given.

DUDE, TENSEGRITY.

>>1810629
>censoring the trigger area

>>1810652
why is that such a meme again recently?

>>1810655
I have my reasons.

>>1810655
>trigger area
Are you implying that anon was printing a FIREARM?
That's against /diy/ rules! He has obviously just made an interestingly-shaped nylon doorstop.

im looking to get a resin printer (eying the Elegoo Mars at the moment) but i was wondering how toxic are the fumes and how much open space do i need for it?

my folks house has a den thats fairly big but doesnt really get used much anymore since they expanded the house to have a dedicated entertainment room where they pretty much use like 90% of the time, even when company is over.
i was thinking of putting the printer there because of the space but is it safe?
i can always just resort into putting it in the garage but also worried that the california heat might screw things up.

Pertinax or a mirror build surface? Which is the better option?

>>1810738
Pertinax is best but you have to glue it on something flat

>>1810665
Why even print a gun? You can only fire it once if you care about your face anyway, not even PP plastic can handle repeated explosions going off inside it...
Just make a pipe shotgun. You can literally make a break-action one with hardware store pipe and some hand tools you'd find in any garage.

>>1810779
>You can only fire it once if you care about your face anyway, not even PP plastic can handle repeated explosions going off inside it...
Looks like you don't know much about 3D printed firearms, or firearms in general

>>1810779
something about "because I can!". There's never really a good reason for it, no person who's smart enough to be able to design a gun will be dumb enough to 3D print it, the ones who are dumb enough to print them aren't smart enough to design them, and the ones who actually need a gun will just grab a lathe and a mill.
>inb4 3D printers are cheaper
They won't be replacing machine shops any time soon for the purpose of making guns for the reason that anyone with two brain cells would rather ship out at least a Harbor Freight machine than a decent-quality printer.

>>1810784
And before someone takes offense to the first chunk I wrote there, yes I'm aware there's people that print *and* shoot guns but I've never seen it be more than for show or a tech demo. Probably only the dumbest person would decide to use a 3D printed gun as their daily carry unless they literally have no other option and can't even steal one and somehow have access to a 3D printer + materials but not a hardware store

>>1810786
>Probably only the dumbest person would decide to use a 3D printed gun as their daily carry unless they literally have no other option and can't even steal one and somehow have access to a 3D printer + materials but not a hardware store
People don't EDC a 3D-printed gun, they are to be used for disposing of harmful individuals.

My first print came out a bit fucked
I think I put the bed upside down

>>1810784
Just look at the Halle shooter.
A huge sperg who wanted to prove his homemade guns (including 3d printed ones) are viable weapons. All of them jammed immediately except for a dead simple pipe shotgun (with zero 3d printed parts).

>B-But 3D printed guns blow up after one shot!!

https://youtu.be/vGoFyueeGnM

>>1810801
He mainly used Luty style SMGs that had nothing to do with 3D printing. They jammed because he used trash home made ammo.

>>1810779
>>1810784
3D printing a lower reciever works quite well and you can buy unregulated parts to build an unregistered gun with those (in the US at least). There are printed AR lowers that have survived more than 1 or 2 thousand rounds.

Please stop talking about guns guys, I don't want the cops to come around and start asking questions.
t. Aussie

>>1810806
All of them had 3d printed magazines, one of the guns was mostly 3d printed - one used the classic sheet metal construction.

>They jammed because he used trash home made ammo.
That's how it actually is in a country with strict gun laws. You can't just buy ammo freely, or even just primer, casings and smokeless powder.
The political talk about homemade guns always ignores that.

>>1810809
>You can't just buy ammo freely, or even just primer, casings
You absolutely can in germany, only gunpowder is regulated there and in many other euro countries. He decided to load his ammo with some kind of rocket candy style mix that contained sugar. Of course that shit seized up the action after about a mag, so it's really pointless to try and deduct anything about the reliability of the guns under normal circumstances. Ammo will always be available on the black market because you can't reasonably trace it, anyone with a permit can just sell it off and make some good cash that way.

Also, this design would work with shit ammo (or even black powder lol), since it's not an autoloader:
https://youtu.be/gFEojfcL5tU

>>1810809
Lmao stop moving the goal post. You were implying that 3d printed guns are inherently unreliable and when you get btfo you start talking about ammo? There are working designs out there see >>1810804

>>1810811
With the new EU hazard rules? Nah, you can't just get primer. And IIRC the guy had to get the casing from Czechia.

That gun is similar to the one gun he used and uses quite a lot of parts that are not 3d printed.

>>1810813
I think you mixed me up with the other guy.
But anyway: that gun uses non 3d printed parts.

>>1810860
>With the new EU hazard rules? Nah, you can't just get primer. And IIRC the guy had to get the casing from Czechia.
Trust me, they are unregulated.

>That gun is similar to the one gun he used
Which one? The Luty that was made partly with 3d parts? Not many similarities, one is full auto only and fires from an open bolt, the other is semi auto only and fires from a closed bolt.

>and uses quite a lot of parts that are not 3d printed
Sure, because making a barrel or a bolt out of plastic is not practical. But even those parts are made with the help of 3d printed parts. The point is not that it has to be 100% 3d printed, it's that it's very easy to make if you have a 3d printer.

>>1810389
make sure the shelf is rigid and not shaking up when the printer crunches.
I'd also recommend to get an external spool holder next to the printer. That way you get the weight off the frame and you feed at the correct height.

>>1810868
Similar designs are also easy to make in a garage without a 3d printer.

This is the same overhyped bullshit as 3d printed masks. The most important part can't be 3d printed and the rest could be improvised in a million different ways.

>>1810875
It's a very big deal honestly, if you'd like to know why and are interested in the topic you should watch/ listen to this. I know it's kinda long but they go over everything.

https://lbry.tv/@Anarchast:2/Unstoppable-Freedom:c

>>1810779
uhhh...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRoZv-EhFy0

>>1810879
lol no, I'm not gonna watch some idiot LARPers

3d printers would be banned the moment they would become an actual threat to a tyrannical government. They wouldn't even have a problem selling such a ban since most people don't really understand 3d printers and would be easily scared with stories like "Little Timmy printed a gun and shot all his classmates"

>>1810891
Ok, now I get it. You're scared they might try to ban 3d printers if the general public becomes aware of the fact that they can be used to make capable firearms. That's why you're acting like it's nothing, it's called motivated reasoning. But I honestly don't think that's a realistic perspective, they will probably just try to ban the sharing of files that contain gun parts. In fact New Jersey already did that.

So I want to upgrade my Wanhao i3 with an E3D Hemera and change my board to RAMPS or something else.

Would it be usefull to also upgrade to 24V? I understand this will make everything heat up faster, but is there another benefit that would make it worthwhile?

>>1810900
No, you managed to miss the point completely.
First, no matter how much you like to wank yourself to the idea of being some heroic freedom fighter, you're not living under tyranny.
Second, even actual tyrannical governments like China don't ban 3d printers.

Also, I generally hate this Silicon Valley way of thinking that you can solve every political problem just by throwing technology at it.

>>1810911
Oh, I'm not an anarchist or anything. I know the interview I linked you and the people behind these projects are very political but I was purely talking about the technical aspects of it when I said it was 'a big deal'. I'm not saying they would prevent tyranny or that I'm living under it. All I'm saying is that there are some designs that actually work and that it's shortsighted to dismiss the role 3d printing is going to play in regards to guns.

>>1810779

/gun/i;board:diy
thank me later

>>1810940
Website?

>>1810941
its a comment filter for the gun faggot shitting up the bred
LOOK AT HIM

>>1810908
you would lower hotbed current which is generally a good thing
Steppers can benefit at higher speeds
but you'd need a new bedheater and power supply so it gets expensive for diminishing returns.

Why the hemera? its expensive and i haven't read to much good stuff about it

>>1810291
Solid choice, buddy. Last few threads there was talk about adding it, but you know about OP.

>>1810389
print a bracket to move the spool to the side and reclaim use of the other shelf

>>1810291
I thought I heard someone talking about misaligned rods and some sort of cracking this or last thread, maybe check that out if you can find it.

>>1810943
Onions covered fingers typed this post

>>1810956
Ender 3 has the Z-axis rod misaligned, you can print a 1mm shim to go under the Z-axis motor to get it in place. There are a few 'kit' plans to be used on the Ender 3, I don't see why similar things wouldn't exist for Anycubic.
Though the Ender 3 has the bigger community and the most sophisticated day 1 and day 0 fixes and mods.

>>1810962
Apologies, it was about the monoprice maker select.

>>1810389

>he fell for the tiny PVM meme

>>1810799
looks like it was going well for a while, did the nozzzle drag across it and pop it off the bed?


>>1810389
set up octoprint and klipper on one of them thinkpads

>>1810983
>looks like it was going well for a while, did the nozzzle drag across it and pop it off the bed?
Yeah
I've since adjusted the bed level, seems to work out fine so far

>>1810946
Oh? I have been reading good things, but I could be wrong.
What would you recommend as an alternative?

>>1811001
well, why do you think you need the hemera?
you already have direct drive

demn is that a sc2 marine

>>1810389
You have to go back.

>>1811018
>t. phonefag who lurks there
go back with them

>>1811006
Well I wanted to upgrade to an all-metal hotend and then my feeder lever and cooling fan broke so why not replace everything in one go?
The price difference between a Hemera and a microswiss hotend does not seem a lot.
I also like the design of the Hemera heatsink and dual drive seems cool?

After hearing about rotary deltas I was super interested.
I found these guys:
https://www.deltaxrobot.com/

Anyone ever heard of them?
They're so cheap it seems v. scammy.

>>1811024
The price doesn't seem that crazy. I can't see anything that should be very expensive.

You can buy an Anycubic Kossel Plus for less and that one comes with costly linear rails.

>>1811022
on the other hand you've got a proprietary new heat brake, non standardized stepper face and dual drive is less ideal for flexible than single drive + idler

OMG i just looked up a picture of the wanhao i3
The hotend is the old Makerbot style
This one is actually good if the liner is cut correct. I wouldnt junk it if you dont print >255 degree for hours. All metal is actually a bigger pain in the butt than Teflon
Just buy a new ABS MK8 Extruder assembly on ali for 3$
rather save up and get a new machine in a year or two

How come DC 48V isn't really a thing? Isn't it a good compromise between anemic 12/24V and the insurance liability that is wiring up a mains powered heated bed?

>>1811018
>lurking on r/ender3
that place is cancer and full of terrible, awful advice and low effort "muh first layer/just set it up and so excited!" posts
r/functionalprint is ok tho, at least you can get some inspiration that isn't the shitty front page of thingiverse

>>1811041
good question
most stepper driver for our machines are not meant to survive at >40v
most chink printers heatbed these days are around 200W so they can stay below 10A and use cheaper terminals. 200W is plenty fine for sane build volumes
And safety was never a concern for the chinks as long as they could save a dime
for diy, one could ask kenovo to custom make a 48v heater and just put two power supply's in there
Unfortunately 48v is still too low to just hook up a 1kw 120v mat and call it a day, 1.6kw mats are too large to be driven by anemic 177w

>print PLA sunglasses clip for my car
>have it in there for a while
>one evening see that it's sagged so much that it's unusable
I assume it was just a particularly hot day and the heat inside the car became enough to soften the plastic.
What kinds of plastic wouldn't be susceptible to this? Would PETG be able to withstand the heat of a hot car?

can i print teflon

>>1811039
Cool, thanks! Good advice!
I assume upgrading to RAMPS is still a good idea?

Do you guys leave your printers on when you leave your home?

>>1811080
>PLA
fuck you faggots, and fuck the retards shilling PLA for lowers. Yeah, it works, but they fucking melt if you leave them in the car.

Try ABS, PETG or Nylon.

PETG is probably the easiest to print for your usage. Nylon also prints easily, but it flexes like TPU. filled nylon requires printer upgrades. Save the PLA for you low poly Pikachu bullshit.

>>1811128
>Do you guys ever leave your home

Only when I'm feeling dangerous.

>>1811128
depends on your insurance policy

>>1811128
nope
i considered hooking a smoke detector up to a contactor, maybe one day

>>1811128
yes but it's in my fireplace
considering picking up a wemo for https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/wemoswitch/

>>1809415
can I uhhh..... 3d print a uh... crack pipe

>>1811024
>>1810148
Still don't know what a rotary delta is so if someone could point me at one I'd be grateful. All I'm seeing is just more deltas, as well as whatever pile of bullshit pic related is

>>1811159
Depends, do you want to smoke crack or PLA?

>>1811170
crack

>>1811159
Printed a bong before, but you still need the alu/glass shillum.

Don't think a plastic printed crackpipe would work

>>1811169
anon was probably talking about something like this

>>1811184
so what you're saying is you didn't print a bong

>>1811169
literally the first result on google:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v46Gh64aN_o

Instead of the rods being pushed by linear rails, they're on arms that rotate.

>>1811169
Think of the words "Rotary" and "Delta" and maybe try to figure it out yourself instead of demanding to be spoon-fed, you braindead retard.

>>1811185
>>1811189
Wasn't aware these were fundamentally different than regular deltas, looks largely the same past the arms being moved using a dfifferent method

>>1811194
It completely changes the kinematic and how the positions have to be calculated.

>>1811185
Never understood why the square beds used for most of these printers, they are best for cylindrical build space.

>>1811188
Look at the pic mongoloid

>>1811184
Looks very clean. What material, printer and settings?

>>1811202
The red is M4P PETG (their old batch) @ 260°C
The green is K-Camel TPU from ali express.
Stock Ender 3

>>1811202
forgot the
>settings
pretty much default cura, PETG was 30mm/s @ 0.28mm layer height or something like that and the TPU at 15mm/s @ 0.2mm layer height

>>1809502
Check Addnorth. They have a lot of cool high-quality filaments. It's a bit more costly, though. And they are Sweden-based.

>>1810232
The filament I got with my ender 5 was ABS. But it didn't say so anywhere on the spool, so I printed it and it completely fucked the hotend up and I had to get a new one. So unless you are completely sure about what material it is, don't use it.

>>1811207
How do you print TPU on the Ender? Did you replace the extruder to a direct drive?

>>1811242
no, all stock extruder, hotend, bowden.
The sectret is to not go above 15mm/s because TPU needs more time in the hotend to liquefy than other materials.

>>1810627
I absolutely love mine. With a bit of tweaking you can get really good prints. It's a very basic machine, though. So be prepared for buggy software, janky technical solutions, cheap parts. I'm sure most of its issues are upgradable, but I doubt you really need anything day 1. Just get to know it first. And I've only printed PLA on it, and I'm not sure it's that good for much else unless you get mayor upgrades.

And print the bed strain relief as soon as possible.

>>1810779
>Why even print a gun? You can only fire it once if you care about your face anyway
Are you fuckng stoned

Do you guys think it would be possible to improve a SLA printer by mounting the LCD on rails and moving it a couple of microns between each layer to hide pixel artifacts or achieve sub-pixel precision?

https://youtu.be/qvrHuaHhqHI

ugh why is this guy talking so slow

>>1811267
it's the correct speed for the intended audience

>>1811267
>>1811268

>>1811262
No idea but that's a breddy interesting idea anon.

>>1811262
Or you know, they could just make their own 4k LCDs. I think one company has but it's extremely expensive. There's also extremely pixel dense microleds although I'm not sure how that would work since they would need to be able to produce UV light at sufficient energy

>>1811260
anon was clearly talking about this model

>>1811296
>Or you know, they could just make their own 4k LCDs.
Who the fuck do you think they are, Samsung?
VRfag here. The quickest way to improve is to simply move to full RGB stripe subpixel layout on the same resolution if they haven't already. Most OLED and LCD panels are Pentile subpixel pattern for cost savings. THEN you can move up to actual higher res screens, which aren't terribly expensive now for OEMs. One to three hundred bucks depending on who you go with.

whoops

>>1811311
how much weight did it take to break it?

>part needs different infill density sections
>set the settings to the precise opposite of what's needed
lmao fug
thankfully I noticed it after just one hour

>>1811313
It's been holding a 300g thing fine so far

>>1811316
jesus christ what the fuck are you doing

>>1811304
Samsung is closing their LCD plants because the chinese priced them out of the market and LG already sources LCDs from the chinese

https://www.gizchina.com/2020/03/31/samsung-will-cease-production-of-the-lcd-panels-to-focus-on-oled/

Chinese LCDs are that cheap

>>1811317
You have a better idea?
I mean, it works

>>1811319
We'll see. Currently it seems like there'll be a EU+US trade war against Russia + China, so your LCDs might not end up being so cheap. Production has been moving to places like Thailand and Vietnam for a while already.

Ok what the FUCK, /3dpg/. What the FUCK. You might remember me (or probably not) because a couple of months ago I posted about how I was having problems with my prints when I first got my printer ages ago, then I let it sit for over a year, then I took it out and decided to yolo print and bam everything was (mostly) fine.
Well I got myself some PETG recently and again, issues out the ass, stringing was unbearable (and lowering temps just made the layers fall apart at a touch), warping off the printbed, garbage like that. Whatever, I didn't have time to print 300 benchies to perfect my settings, so I left it for a while. Fast forward to right now, about a couple of weeks of the printer just sitting there, and I decided to go back and get some PETG printed after all. Guess how bad the first print is turning out so far.
That's right. Fucking perfect first try. Perfect adhesion. No warping. Some stringing off the nozzle but it's completely manageable and it's not even affecting the infill noticeably (which is nice because the filament is translucent).

Oh and by the way my bed was last levelled like a couple of months ago when I first got my printer out after its 1.5-year dormancy, then I adjusted the knob while watching the skirt maybe once and now it's still perfect. Which I don't understand because I can FEEL it having some wobble and play, and I literally moved my printer around a few times and I've also pulled some prints off brutally, but the skirt is uniform and looks basically perfect.

What the fuck is this printer that just spontaneously gets only better tuned with time?

>>1811320
wait, its supposed to be 2 pieces?
the way you cropped the pics makes it hard to tell.
so if it didnt break what is the oops?

Why the fuck is prusaslicer not kicking the fan up to 100% on steep overhangs/bridges? I'm pretty sure I have the setting enabled

>>1811334
the screw holes on the left

>>1811316
hello fellow vive bro

I installed a bltouch on my anet A8 but I did not remove the c45 capacitor.
Is it really worth removing it? I'm already getting good results but it could be better

So, a friend recommended me to buy a delta printer instead of the more common one. Is there any valid reason to buy one? I wanted to buy an entry one like the Creality Ender 3 Pro at first now I'm undecided.

>finally installed printed extruder mount plate and drilled out the bowden tube hole to butt the bowden tube right up to the gears
Finally. Reliable TPU feeding. I'm so sick of failed prints.

Has Thingiverse removed the ability to see the number of search results or am I just blind? I have no idea if I've reached the end of the results or if Thingiverse is just throwing a fit anymore.

>>1811324
>Production has been moving to places like Thailand and Vietnam for a while already
This is greatly overrated. It's mostly new expansions of assembly lines for for stuff like phones and appliances. We might see TVs from those places but probably not the LCD panels or the microcontrollers. And in the first place it's chinese companies that have largely taken over LCD. I.e. BOE, TCL/CSOT. To a lesser degree there's also AUO which is Taiwanese but pretty much all made in China iirc. Even 2 of Samsung's plants were in China but Samsung itself can't sustain it against native chinese companies. Central China specialized its infrastructure around producing and shipping around tech components, it's not easily replaced or even separated from. We're talking decades of concerted effort before China's competitive advantage is upset, and that's assuming they don't try to price out non-Chinese companies like they've done to Samsung, which used to be the largest LCD manufacturer in the world like a decade ago

>>1811391
Thingiverse has been a dumpster fire since the update, use yeggi to search it.

>>1811367
Is this your first printer? If so, Ender 3 Pro. Deltas are kinda memes, due to the size they must take up for a comparatively
One potential advantage is speed in terms of just jerk and accelerations, but this is usually not the limiting factor in overall speed for printing a model (see: nozzle size/line width/layer height)

Start with a cartesian printer like the Ender 3. You'll have much fewer headaches. Then if you still think you like printing in a year or two, consider a delta then realize that CoreXY is the chad choice.

>>1811387
Holy shit the prints look great now. This is fantastic.

>>1811367
They look cool
That's the only good thing about em

I tried printing a bit holder in two colors, but the red color kinda got squished much like the first layers on a print bed, ruining the dimensions of the holes and making them too tight.
I used cura, didn't re-do the last layer precisely to avoid this. Is there any hope of getting this to work properly?

>>1811424
Yeah it's my first printer. I'll go with the Ender 3 Pro then. Thank you, dear anon.

>>1811428
riffler files would probably fit

>>1811432
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ramiM3KHYE
This video does a good job explaining some of the various constructions for printers and their pros/cons

>>1811355
Do M48 and see what it says.

If youre having trouble trying to print flexibles on an Ender/CR-10 stop fucking with settings and install this thing.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3109805
Clip a bevel on the end of your bowden tube and stick it all the way through so it's right next to the extruder gear. My TPU prints look fantastic now and extruder block bending jams are nonexistant.

>>1810274
Seconding this. I'm new to this and in the process of trying out different slicers.

And what about jog keys direct numerical control? MatterControl has this, it sends G-code to the printer over USB.
Slic3r/PrusaSlicer don't have this, even the proprietary FlashPrint doesn't. Coming from a background in CNC machines, that seems pretty essential to me, what are others using for that?

>>1810274
PrusaSlicer
Works well enough for me to use on experimental machines without any issues so I'm happy with it

>>1811452
Thanks, will do tomorow

>>1811199
Grug brain likes squares
Squares are easier to manufacture and store

im getting bubbling or maybe bad adhesion on my top layer

could it be a groove in the wheels? my printer was sitting for a few months

>>1811491
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>>1811505
I also realized I forgot to include infill lmao, that's probably the biggest issue

>>1809544
Hey anon, does it have wheel brakes or is it like helicopter pedal?

>>1811538
That is clearly a rudder pedal.

I haven't seen it mentioned on OP's post so I guess it doesn't really matter but, are there any recommended places I could buy an Ender 3 Pro or it really doesn't matter? Because I've seen some on Aliexpress and I've been thinking of getting it from there.

>>1811589
that's where i bought mine, from the official store

Could a 3d printed pla+ hook about 1 centimenter in diameter hold 100lbs?

>>1811602
Likely depends on how you have it designed and printed. If the forces are in parallel with the print lines yes, if not I don't know.

>>1811602
No way, that's like 2/5". Even if you supported both ends I really doubt it would hold up to any movement whatsoever

>>1811461
>Coming from a background in CNC machines, that seems pretty essential to me, what are others using for that?
It's much less important for 3d printers. You don't have a work piece that you need to adjust for or pause and resume for tool changes.
You don't really need it integrated in the slicer.
People often just octoprint or the printer's hardware interface for it.
There's also software like pronterface that you can use.

>>1809544
hole horizontal expansion in cura might work for this

>>1811428
personnaly I don't expect any 3D print to have great dimensionnal accuracy. There are too many parameters to take into account, some slicers boost external layer for good looking finish.
I test every sensible part before the big print.
Here is thread test for M5 screws.

opinion on 3d printer V roller carriages?
are they junk or hold up good?
material wise im thinking of petg or abs

>>1811764
That style of carriage sucks.

But this one works pretty well:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2206030
I printed it with PETG and held up just fine for years.

New Thread: >>1811778

>>1809415
Oh shit, I just noticed I made into a thread image.

>>1809900
so everyone knows his disgusting long nails are intentional.