/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Woodcraft has a bench on sale with the combo kit, dogs, anvil and storage. Yes or no? I'm into woodworking, and I wonder if it is proper to make a bench or buy a bench?

Free shipping. And my birthday is coming up, and I have apx 180K in savings, so it's not like I'm poor. Should I?

>>1775913
fuck wood nigga

>>1775915
it's not really a matter of whether it's better to do so or not, making a bench is something you should be able to do.
so prove it.

building a bench from scratch on top of sawhorses is not a particularly new thing.

They want $1500 for that? Why?

Reposting from old thread. Does pyrography fit in here?
I'm trying to find a decent kit for my sister but everything on amazon that's reasonably priced uses solid nubs, and all the wire tips are like double the price for some reason. Is either fine, or are wires "better"?
For that matter, is it possible to find T20 tips for pyrography, and what temperatures does it even happen at? Maybe I'm retarded but I can't find proper info online. If 400*C is fine it'd be great to be able to just get a tip replacement and repurpose my old soldering station

>>1776023
looks like a good deal since it's clear beach. Clear beach is expensive here. 35.5 inches high seems kinda short for tall people.

Making some wood (and metal) tankards and I'm looking for a good alcohol-proof sealer for it. I've heard there's a good food-safe acrylic coating on the market, but I have yet to hunt it down. I've also learned that Waterlox Original can be used, but there's fairly long cure time involved with that, IIRC. Any ideas?

>>1775915
Get a cheap bench so you can use it a bit and figure out what you hate about it. Then, do research and decide what you want your next bench to feature (crochet, deadman, leg vise, moxon vise, wagon vise, etc.) and build it. Repeat ad nauseum.

>>1776121
>pyrography
wood burning to make art. Fits here. But most here like to make stuff from wood. Try /g or /sci with the question.

Didn't see the wwg and started a thread. Sorry bout that.

Any of you guys ever fucked with one of these?

I'm way past graduating from my janky 8" benchtop cutech with shit ass shop made infeed/ outfeed tables that need to be dialed in every time I use it.

Looked at the Jet and powermatic, but it looks like I'll be saving $750+ with grizzly. I'd be happy to pay more if rockler or woodcraft stocked 8" jointer in store, but if have to have them shipped anyways.

>>1776311
/g/ is filled with CPU wars retards and, while I haven't been to /sci/ very frequently, it doesn't sound like the board to offer practical advice on art-making.
But I guess I'll try them anyway, thanks.

>>1776320
I think there is an art board, but it might be all about henti stuff.

>>1776317
anything new is gonna be low qualkity. ALso, just get the widest you can afford. Rob Cosman has a school and a youtube channel, and he goes over why you should seek out and older model.

BTW: I do all my shit by hand, but I somtimes go to a community group with all these power tools to do some boards. There might be a wood working group in your area.

>>1776330
I mill about 1000bf/ mo now, so it's time to get some grown up equipment. I'm a cheapskate though. Tbh it's probably time for a logosol 2 side planer/molder, but I won't spring for a $7000 piece until I need the $16k model.

I miss doing things by hand some days, but people won't pay for that quality of work nowadays.

>spoke shave and draw knife carving jig/vise
I appreciate the simplicity of a shave horse but I think there could be a more ergonomically method to do the same thing.

shave horse pros:
>hands free, foot operated clamp
>you can rest your legs while seated (also a con to me)
cons:
>takes up too much space for a single use tool
>while seated you have to push forward at the ankle (200+ lbs force needed) with your feet to hold the work piece as well as pull back with your shoulders to make the cut at the cost of lower back stress.

I think this can be done standing up, a rear leg firmly planted behind you, a bench top vise at chest level (or end vise on tall bench), and a quick release mechanism operated by foot. Thoughts? My running idea is a pneumatic end vise with jaw inserts.

>finally have a garage
>built a platform and a bench
>Working on mobile miter and jointer/planer carts
>Still plenty of space
And it's only March. Who else is getting started now that the snow is melting?

Hmm..

hello woodworking any advice for me? I want to start making coffee tables, end tables, maybe a epoxy table here and there. what tools should get me off the ground? def a drill and router im assuming.

>>1777796
You don't need a router unless you want fancy edges. Clamps, planes, saws.

>>1777808
Flush trim bits are very useful and routers are pretty cheap, get a corded one and you're golden.

>>1777796
A table saw of some variety is almost essential, unless you're going to ancient master everything.
The try hard hand tools only stuff gets old really really fast. Especially if you're selling stuff.

>>1777823
Yep. If you're selling stuff, you need sawstop, planer, and jointer.

I was all handtool all the time, and I still do that sometimes, but I've started collecting some power.

>>1777808
def want some shaped edges. any other advice?
>>1777823
you brands/models i should look for? or will one from home depot be okay for starting out? i would like to take this more seriously if i like it

>>1778303
>sawstop, planer, and jointer.
thanks, any other info would be much appreciated.

>>1778304
If you don't know if you will get into it, don't buy anything. Join a woodworking group/shop/school. If you live in/near a city, there is at least one. If you live in suburb area ask around. Colleges have some woodworking classes. I know I started on my kitchen counter, and started to add tools. I made a small table, and it turned out like shit, because square left the room, but I gave it as a gift to a friend just starting out. I used homedepot S4. Made a three shelf plant stand, gave that to my mother, but career and life took me away from woodworking. Now I have a garage proper, and got back into it with all hand tools all the time. Jointing by hand is easy after a while, but planing flat is more work.

>>1778306
workbench, of course. YOu could buy >>1775915, or you could go hoor fright cheap $99, the with minimal tools build one. YOu could just get two saw horses, then make one, but it's a lot of work.
BTW: get sawstop table saw if you gonna get a table saw.

I already have a decent toolkit and a cheap IKEA wood table. How do I get into woodworking? I want to build a bookcase, but dont want to fuck it up. Are you supposed to join or glue planks together to make the outline? Because I had a hard time finding wood wide and tall enough to make a 5ft x 5ft bookcase and I'm honestly lost.

>>1778347
just follow a plan

a really basic bookcase is like 7 planks of wood nailed together, then slats nailed onto that structure to make the back side

>>1778613
But where can you find the wood? Lowes doesn't have any wood slabs long/wide enough that aren't warped to shit.
I can visualize building it, and box joints don't seem too hard as I have vernier calipers and other precision tools to ensure they fit right.
But how the wood will warp with moisture through the year, what kind of wood to use, where to find the wood, etc escapes me.

Is there a way to glue together narrower wood pieces together to make the sides, base and top and make it seamless? An example is tables, they're not made of solid slabs but the surface looks seamless.

I have slight water stain damage on my skylights.
Considering slight sanding with 220 maybe, and layering on some Danish oil to waterproof it. How good of a fix is that?

>>1778676
this is how you make larger slabs out of narrow pieces
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/03/08/clamping-cauls-the-secret-to-great-glue-ups
it helps to make sure they're planed and square before you start

Baseboards, window and door moldings in my house were painted in white but in only some rooms. I quite like the look of the wood without paint, what is the most effective way to remove the white paint? I'm not sure if I want to lacquer or oil finish the wood afterwards yet.
Do I have to sand or use some kind of chemical stripper?

>>1778304
Entry level saw for resale cabinet work and furniture building used to be the cast iron rigid for $550. The new models have issues with the blade drifting as the tension raises and lowers, so don't bother; plus, if you're just starting, that'll be over kill.

Grab a default jobsite saw to get started $300, or find yourself a 70's or earlier craftsman cast iron on Craigslist for a few hundred. Don't be too intimidated by rust, as long as it hasn't started pitting. Just look up Norm Abram' s vid on restoring saws on youtube.

Skip the chop saw for now, and build yourself a cross cut sled. DO NOT CROSS CUT FREE HAND OR WITH THE FENCE IN PLACE ON A TABLE SAW.

Start with a hand plane. Don't spend $300 on one. Buy a buck bros from home depot and check out Paul Seller's YouTube vid on fixing a shit hand plane.

Clamps. Buy the 3/4 Pittsburgh pipe clamp heads from harbor freight, and buy some 48" 3/4 black pipe nipples from home depot. You'll always need more clamps than whatever you have, so start stocking up.

Glue. Titebond ii. I don't believe in Gorilla Glue, neither does Mattias Wendell, and he's like an autistic wood genius.

For joinery, your choice: router (ryobi or harbor freight will be fine to start) poking up through plywood for mortising while cutting tennons on the saw, chiseling mortises, or to start... pocket screws (frowned upon here but customers don't care).

I'm probably missing a ton of shit...

All my $.02 people do things a million different ways.

>>1778886
>tension
*trunion

I've got a question. I'm looking to finish some oak and I've been trying to figure out which oil/varnish/poly/whatever to use.
My main concerns, in order of importance, are:
1. Heat resistance
2. Cracking/warp prevention
3. Water resistance
I typically use poly, but Google says it's not too great with heat. I'm probably looking at about 150 degrees max. I don't particularly care about gloss or color, either.
Thanks in advance.

>>1778899
I only use oil ply, so I'm guessing here. Have you looked into epoxy?

>>1778776
Pull off all the painted trim work. After some test pieces such as closet base, use a solvent that works well. Sanding every piece would be a bear. I would go with paint stripper or thinner as long as they don't damage the look of the wood underneath.

If you're staining later and the wood no longer takes the stain well, you can cheat by tinting the poly coat.

>>1778899
Arm R Seal is the only urethane that I can see get mentioned for heat resistance.

>>1778908
I have, but I not too sure about the "pour-on" stuff. The piece I'm working with has an assload of corners and vertical surfaces, so brushing/wiping is a must, which is probably gonna cause a bunch of air bubbles. That's just me though, the only epoxy I've ever used comes in 3 dollar tubes from Hazard Fraught.

>>1778899
is it going to be subject to heat? What are you making?

I made a garden bench, and used BLO. It gets hot here in the SW, and the bench is holding up fine.

>>1778915
This even sounds like a retarded amount of work as I'm typing it, and probably automatic no-go, but could you build a melamine form and pour it?

>>1778347
Part of woodworking is fucking up and resolving what the world hands you.

You can full on join every piece or quickly nail and screw it together. It can be all solid wood or capped and veneered throughout. It's your bookcase.

>>1778918
(another) Wooden motorcycle. I'm the same fag who used to post the shitty looking thing with an edger engine and bike wheels. Same engine, but better quality build this time. Airflow should cool the thing down, but idling is my main concern. The engine is about 3 inches away from any exposed wood, and operating temp is probably close to 170ish, so I'm only concerned about radiant heat.

>>1778919
Good suggestion, but nah, that's a bunch of work.

>>1778886
thank you

>>1778304
>>1779111
Drill presses are handy to have if you're not particularly steady with a powered drill. There's nothing that looks worse and is more frustrating than a crooked hole. Cheapo shit from Harbor Freight works pretty well, just make sure the chuck isn't wobbly out of the box. They're about 50 bucks, and the only problem I've had with mine after 6 years is the return spring, which flat ass broke. Easy fix though.

I'd also recommended a scroll saw if you're doing delicate work, like curves and whatnot. Leagues better than using a jigsaw for delicate cuts. Likewise, the harbor freight model works well, but the little air pump is a pile of shit that should be removed.

Make sure you at least have an orbital sander because it's a bitch to sand something as large as a table by hand.

Not sure if /sqt/ would be a better choice.

I want to make wooden lids for a pot and a skillet (pan? not sure of the correct terminology in english).
Dimensions are 25/21cm diameter, board thickness 16 mm. That's ~10in/8in diameter with thickness around 5/8th. Spruce boards.
They are cutoffs from another project and it would just about be enough for lids for these two. I thought about using that project as an opportunity to work without glue and possibly without finish, but I'm not sure just how stupid that idea is.
For the joinery, the plan currently is to joint two and three boards respectively and keep them forced into plane a) perpendicular to the grain with a dovetail handle across all boards and b) parallel to the grain with two dominos/dowels. Pic related.

Now: I figure that having the constant exposure to water vapor would require some very good finishing, not to mention food-safe. But what about just not using any finish at all? will the warping/movement be too much?
What about no glue? Will the joints be tight enough without it? I also thought about using tongue and groove joints.

>>1779386
Oh and I forgot, the thickness of the wood is a bit of a concern to me, but on the other hand, the thinner the boards are, the less is the force exerted on the handle/dowels that keep it in plane, right?

Oh my god I just used wood stain for the first time and holy shit, I can just buy pine planks and make things look THIS nice for THAT cheap?!?
I love pine and stain

>>1779386
The small amount of glueless work I've seen done uses some form of shim. This creates the wedge and force to secure the pieces together. It's the same concept as the handle of a hammer.

I would go with a simple food safe finish that I can update from time to time. Shellac isn't strong against water but it polishes to glass and is easy to touch up. There are foodsafe waxes like Bees', paraffin. I use carnauba wax on my table saw and others. On my cutting boards, I just got cheap and quick like a butcher block oil or mineral oil. This is because I'm always hitting them with a sharp knife, scraping the food somewhere else, and washing them. It takes 10-15 min every few months to refinish them.

>>1779397
Stain is one of the most satisfying steps and reveals things you didn't see in the material. I keep scrap test pieces with a palette of stains and finishes. Those times when your finish and material don't play nice are more of an adventure.

Might not be the right thread but im looking for a nice splitting maul. I bought a home with a wood stove and id like to pick one up that will last. I know its a vaguely wedge shaped chunk of steel but there has to be some brands to stay away from.

I'm struggling with hand sawing straight while breaking down stuff like pallets and odd stocks of wood I've picked up to make simple things out of.

I try to keep the reflections straight, but I keep veering off a little even if I do Paul Seller's knife wall or carefully saw a straight kerf around what I'm trying to cut. What are some of the ways you use to ensure a straight and square cut?

>>1779397
Be careful with the knots and end grain. Lighter woods with coarse grain soak up stain and oftentimes the ends of your board will be 10x darker than the rest. Pine knots, and occasionally patches of grain, don't take stain very well, so just in case use a pre-stain conditioner for a consistent color.
Also, post work.

>>1779523
What type of saw are you using? Take your time and let the blade do the work, aka don't apply much pressure when cutting.

My friend and I both made a box about 3 inches deep. I routed mine and combined multiple layers to create a unibody look and he cut some wood poorly with a saw and nailed it together.
Everyone says hes looks great and mine looks like its from a junkyard.
What gives? He did stain his but other than that we used the same type of wood.

>>1779525
A regular 20 inch husky hand saw from home depot and a cheap double sided pull saw from harbor freight for when I want cleaner crosscuts as well as to try out those pull saws. I have the same accuracy issue with both.

>>1779543
I hate to make a cliché statement, but practice makes (almost) perfect. You'll probably have a better time with the cheap HF saw, personally I never have had much luck with panel saws. My first handsaw was a HF gardening saw I stole from my dad's toolshed, which made surprisingly straight cuts after a few weeks of practice. If you want relatively good cuts without the practice, buy a miter box.

>>1779530
We'll need pictures to judge.

>>1779524
Well what you are describing happened to me exactly. It was just a foot stool so mu wife could reach higher shelves and cabinets so I'm not too worried about it. The shoe molding I stained to transition from the pine floor to the kitchen tile however, stained perfectly. I am going to apply some wipe on poly now to seal it. The shoe molding was the primary reason I purchased the stain. Now that I know how good pine looks though, its motivational for other projects.

What's a good method or material for adhering fabric (microfiber cleaning cloth) to ABS plastic? So far all I can think of is 3M Spray adhesive or maybe going wild and trying to iron it on and let the melted ABS do the adhesion.

>>1775915
I've always felt a work surface like that should be something you build yourself so you can configure it exactly the way you want it rather than just dealing with whatever you can buy.

>>1779668
Does the connection need chemical, flat surface to flat surface?
Or can you attach it mechanically? For example like a mop or the way sandpaper is attached to some sanding blocks. That is, wrap around the surface and clamp it.

>>1779671
Flat to flat, it's going to be the inside of a "pouch" of sorts for my phone. Facing the screen so mechanical fastening would be out of the question.

>>1779672
Considered sewing? That is, punch holes in the abs and sew it to the microfiber.

Maybe also reconsider your assembly process and other parts so the adherence to the microfiber becomes less of an issue. Can you provide more details?

CoronaVirus tip for wood workers.

So I went to store for hand sanitizer, and they where sold out. Looked up what is in hand sanitizer, and lo and behold: grain alcohol, and aloe vera gel. Well, stick a fork in me, I have a bottle of everclear on the shelf, for when I was mixing up some shellacs.

So if you're looking for some sanitizer, take a look in your workshop for some everclear! PS: don't use the denatured alcholol from the big box store, since they add some dryers, and other solvents. Also, don't drink the everclear, since it is too strong.

>>1779673
I've got some ABS plastic sheets laying around and have a weird desire to have a kind of pocket protector-like holster for my phone. Minimize what I have attached to my phone while keeping the camera above the pocket line. I've got a few extra cleaning cloths laying around and would like to have one on the screen facing interior so it doesn't scratch.

>>1779677
And how did you plan to construct it, assuming you would find a way to glue the cloth to the plastic?


I would sew a cloth sleeve/pocket and just put it inside of the abs sleeve you construct. Make the cloth sleeve a bit longer, fold it around the lip and fix it on the outside with a different method.

How is thta so expensive....
You can buy the nicest vices in the world for like 300 each and that puts you at 600, where is the other 900 dollars coming from, the wood..??

>>1779703
The production/labor cost and the markup obviously.

Good beginner jack plane? Also where do I buy more blades for them?

>>1779674
did you really not this?

>denatured alcohol is removing baseboard paint immediately
>wood beneath is lacquered and not affected by the alcohol

beautiful.
Pain in the ass its going to be to cut, stain, and lacquer all the shoe molding to hide the gaps between the baseboard and floor though.
How much wood is exposed in your houses? I quite enjoy it but also don't want to go overboard.

>>1779722
Shoe is cake, it just takes time. Any kind of miter box plus coping saw and you're off to the races.

>>1779729
Don't know what either of those are, I'm very new at this as I just started last week into reading and working on wood. On leave as my wife had a baby.
The quarter round shoe molding that is currently drying out in the shed from polyurethane coat(its for flooring transition) I sanded by hand to fit the baseboard it meets. Took me about 15 minutes to do both ends slowly. Planned to do the same for all the shoe molding in the house.
The previous owner was an old man who seemed to be very diy, but now that I have free time to breathe and actually pay attention to things, he did pretty shoddy work. For example, the trim on some doorways did not have nails fully sunk in, just went around with a center punch and sunk them in flush, along with some finishing nails for other spots that needed them.

>>1779722
Bad news, not all of the baseboard paint is coming off with denatured alcohol. What other chemical strippers do I have to use, or will it go down to sanding off?

Tips for making box joints by hand? Tools?
Thinking a hacksaw might not be the best of tools, but currently all I have.

>>1779841
>only a handsaw
the most important part:
accuracy (=training/experience)
measure twice

also:
prescore your cuts with a knife or whatever
cut less, adjust later with sandpaper if you have nothing else.
learn to use your hacksaw properly (see above, training/experience)

>>1779846
I see. I also want to make dadoes for the shelving by hand, but thinking of the precision required for all these, on top of it being my first project is a bit threatening. The save for this is that in case I mess it up, I could cut off the box joints and make just an end joint.
I do need chisels for the dadoes though. But I think that is all the tooling required.

>>1779849
>on top of it being my first project is a bit threatening
you can always make some tests on spare material or cutoff parts, etc. In fact I would suggest to do so anyway.
>dado
depends on the width/depth/length and how much you want to sand. With the right parameters, I could see myself creating a dado with just a hacksaw and some sandpaper. But yeah of course a chisel would make it a lot easier. Especially if you have to do multiple.

>>1779849
>chisels for the dadoes
Do you want to do this project with only hand tools? I completely understand if so. I used to live woodwork too, until I started doing it for a living.

A harbor freight router and 3/4" straight bit is only going to run you about $50.

Chiseling out dados would have me looking for another way to make money.

>>1779866
I dont think I'll ever make money out of this, it's just a hobby. Just in the cost of the most unfinished cheapest wood, it still costs just about the same to just buy something cheap from china or amazon. It's for my self esteem and enjoyment. If I ever get to the point where I feel I can make money out of it, then I'll give those kinds of tools a chance. Just got some set of 3 used chisels off ebay, but finishing the wood boards is gonna be a bit of a wait, since planes are pricy unless you get a used one, unless there is another way to make your wood flat and even on all sides than a jackplane.

>>1779821
in order of strength and potential to damage

acetone, mineral spirits, paint thinner, paint stripper

I'll normally only use alcohol to cut shellac, clean something, or touch up. Thinner is the best bet here imo.

How strong is wood glue really? I bought the best I could in order to join two slats of shoe molding. The idea is to increase the backing end of the long piece I intend to use, as one of the floorboards is a bit recessed and it would leave a gap otherwise. Found it a better idea to add more wood rather than wood putty or any filler, or worse, leave the gap. But thinking about it now, I'm worrying that the wood might split at the glued area if stepped on.

>>1780171
wood glue is often stronger than the wood itself, but this depends on where you are gluing the wood. For example, end joint gluing is very weak due to the structure of the wood.

>>1780171
Find or rent a micro pinner. Even without sanding, it's a challenge to see the evidence of a 23ga nail. I use them all the time on shoe.

If I'm converting a saw from rip cut to a cross cut, do I have to remove the existing set? I got an old rip cut carcass saw, but I want to use it to cut the cheeks of the tenon and other cross cut things. Also did I use the term "cheeks" right?

>>1779472
>grug put metal through tree
>make fire to keep family warm
all you have to do is keep it sharp with a whetstone (+ leather if you're an autist)

Not sure if I should ask here or in the Stupid Questions thread, but how do I go about matching the stain on one piece of wood with a piece of unstained wood without knowing what stain was used? I have wood furniture for one of my rifles and it has a stain applied to it. I bought a replacement wooden grip that is unstained and would like it to match the rest of the furniture. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.

>>1780992
Get test pieces, mix stains, and trial and error.

Or bring a test piece and a match piece to a paint store.

>>1779472
I have a Truper 8lb splitting maul. I've been using it for about 3 years now and no issues, which is nice because it only cost me like $40. I split wood fairly regularly and usually it's oak or black walnut, so I'm hitting hardwood. I'd recommend not getting something with a wood handle unless you're good at splitting. If you hit the handle or are missing your mark, you could damage it and have to replace it.

>>1779472
>>1780995
One more thing, you don't necessarily need to keep it sharp. I have never sharpened my maul and it still works fine. The point of a maul is to drive the wood apart, not cut into it. If you're using an axe, that's a separate issue, but for a maul, you're really just looking for weight and head shape.

>>1780994
I'd buy more grips, but they're like $60 each. It's made of Claro Walnut, which I'm not sure I'll be able to find for testing.

Would a tenon saw like this be worth getting?
Could it crosscut and rip cut?
Ive heard if you have the correct tpi you can cross and rip cut

>>1781127
referred to in southern state as a back saw... but no you wont cross cut or rip with it...suggest you sit on your tpi and see what you have after a crosscut...

>>1781127
cross cut and rip cut aren't just to do with tpi, a good saw for either will have the teeth 'geometry' different, the teeth are kind of bent to either side.

>>1781148
You won't cross cut or rip with it? Wtf Captain Kirk, those are kind of the only choices. If you use a saw, to SAW, then you are doing one or the other.

For anyone using handsaws I absolutly recommend finding saw sharpening vice and sharpen yourself. It makes your life so much better.
I just picked this up a few days ago.

>>1781162
>>1781148
I meant would the saw be able to cross and rip cut cleanly, also its very difficult to find tenon saws that clearly state whether the are for rip or cross cut, would you be able to file a saw into rip/cross cut style?

>>1781127
>worth getting?
Depends what you gonna use it for.
Basic starter: 1 panel saw cross cut, 1 panel saw rip cut. 1 Dovetail saw (ripcut 14-16 tpi)

What is the tpi on that spear and jackson? BTW: spear and jackson puts a super strong coating of varnish, that is a PIA to remove. Also, Spear and Jackson's handle is hard to remove since the brass screws don'thave any slots. (for screwdriver)

>>1781210
nice find. New or Ebay?

>>1775915

>Working height 900mm

LOL

>>1781465
whats wrong with 900mm... sound big, and thick

What are these two wood types? I assume the right one is birch, but I'm not sure either.

>succeeded at planing down the endgrain of a cherry block after a slightly botched sawing without blowing out the edges
Ha! I'll make that hag's tooth routing plane yet!

>>1780392
The cheeks of a tenon are rip cuts, the shoulders are the cross cut ones.
Don't fuck up a rip cut saw unless you have to imo, they are so much less common.

>>1775913
Ayup lads, newfag to /diy/ I'm interested in getting into joinery/carpentry, any of you lot got advice on where to begin or what to have a go at first?

>>1783724
IT's tough now to get into something new with the virus going around, because you need to gear up, which means going shopping. Also, you need to get wood, which means shopping.

But have to ask, do you want to do hand tools, or power tools or a little of both?

>>1783733
Mostly hand, power if necessary, not aiming to make anything too big, maybe start making a nice looking box with a lid or something equally small.

why is it so hard to get wood in this shithole?
all stores here sell just constraction crap like plywood and 2 by 4 and all eshops here only sell to tradesmen in big quantities it is impossible to get nice carpentry wood if you are a hobbyist around here
i guess i will have to go fall some trees illegally or some shit

>>1783739
Big box stores have a section for s4 wood. I drive to some places, a hundred miles away for some supply. You can also check craisglist for free stuff.

>>1783742
i checked the local ads but no luck
and the worst part is you can't really use old furniture anymore because it's all ikea trash that is literally just plywood that is hollow inside or fulled of compressed glued wood chippings.
Not like the older sutf which was beautiful massiv just begging to be taken apart and used as planks for stock

>>1783746
what state/country are you.

More of a blade and blacksmithing question but worth asking: I want to create a long folding hand saw for outdoor work. I have many old saw blades (don't worry I've respectfully restored the ones deemed worthy) to be a part of this project. From visual inspection these steels seem to have already been heat treated. Is it worth the time to cut new teeth and finish these blades or should I just buy a new saw? - I'm quarantined so I have time. pic related.

>>1783761
generally, you can always reuse old blades that way, but there is a certain risk that only the edges are high quality steel and the rest is some crap.

Just do a scratch test. But cutting new teeth into an already heat treated blade without annealing sounds like a miserable time.

Is there anything strong enough that can dye or tint already cured clear finishes like poly? I don't want to lay down another layer on a chip repair or completely sand it down. I repaired the chip with CA glue and smoothed it out, the repair looks great but now the clear finish is a bit lighter in that spot.

My wife got this decorative cutting board from a woodworking friend, but as you can see, the interior desgin has split in several areas.
Is there a way to fix this? I don't wood work. I already tried compressing it with clamps to see if I could just wood glue it all back together, but the exterior frame won't allow it.

>>1784057

>>1784057
Would gluing, then squashing it flat with something work?

>>1784057
>>1784058
Wood glue and clamps maybe.
First thing to try: if you squeeze it together, are there any gaps? If not, apply the wood glue to the to the cracks with a thin brush.
Then clamp evenly. Try not to cause the cracks to creat undilations.

I assume you don't cut food on it, but it looks like it cracked from the different grain patterns and wood types, so condition with some oil every season. It looks very nice.

>>1784082
>>1784067
As stated, the dark wood outer square is solid and doesn't allow clamps to compress the interior squares (by taking all the pressure on itself protecting the inside.)

Is there a way to safely disassemble the thing? Like a wood glue solvent or something so I don't have to pry it apart and damage it further?

>>1784131
Clamps will. Wood working clamps. You could try and see. Another thing: try to expand the wood wood warm water, or a high humid room for a couple hours/days. Then when the wood reconnects, apply wood glue.

>>1784131
How about getting a solid slab of something, laying it on top then stack a bunch of weight on it post glueing?

Who here desk making due to coronavirus? Had to build an office to work at home.

>>1784621
Same fag here

>>1775913
a guy near me is selling custom cabinets, anyone want to pool some money and order a bunch?

>>1785269
Sorry, no. "Pottery Barn-style" is not my go-to.

>cheap HF pull saw tends to jam up a little on the rip side
>look at the teeth
>no set in some parts of the blade
>don't want to order a set tool off Amazon because covid and reviews talking about soft anvils and using pliers seems a little extreme
>look up how it was done before the tool
>hammer and punch
>open up a Paul Sellers video about it and grab a hammer and nail set after marking the teeth
>a bunch of light, but firm taps and constant checking and the deed is done
>rip cut side works much better than before
That is pretty cool. I'm tempted to try the pliers out next time, but I'm afraid I might snap off a tooth, regardless of how much thicker the plate is compared to a more expensive one

How steep is the learning curve for becoming competent at wood working when I have been a metalworker for several years now? Specifically the skills one would need to work on Wood stock firearms. I'm sure it's going to be much more difficult than I imagine, just like all skilled trades

>>1785318
Yeah, the blades that come with HF saws are complete garbage. I mean, the saw is too but I feel you. You can't always drop the money on nice tools.

That said, you have a Habitat for Humanity ReStore in your area? Mine sells old saw blades for a buck apiece. Any size, from 6 inch to 10 inch, carbide or plain. I have a 10 inch saw so I pick up any blade I see with low hours. If it is a blade where they printed the details on it like picture related, and you can still read it, it hasn't been used much. It probably still has some factory edge left. As they are used the printing would smear and wear away, which you can see starting to happen on the example. If it still has some print on it there is plenty of life left in the blade. Just make sure it ain't rusted, has broken teeth, or is warped. Oh, and check your arbor size. They are generally 5/8th or 1/2 inch.

>>1785341
It's not that steep if you already have experience making stuff. The meme answer is you take your blank and cut off everything that doesn't look like a gun, but that's actually kind of right. The difference is the shavings on the floor. The first stock you make there are lots of filings and scrapings: tiny pieces of wood and dust. The guys that know what's up end up with mostly shavings to big hunks of kindling on the floor, covered by a thin layer of dust. Are you aware that you need an FFL even for stock work, if you're talking about center-fire?

>>1785362
There actually is one near me! It's absolutely flush with hacksaws and big box miter saws, but I'm not sure if it's open, the current lockdown of "non-essential" stores puts a damper on it.

I got one of the miter saw to take the spine to use as a replacement for a vintage one but now I gotta make a new handle so that it fits the new spine, though it does work just fine with the original, I just want the practice.

Secretly, I'm hoping to stumble across a hand plane there as well.

>>1785269
Wait, he makes them? This board for the people that make cabinets. We tend not to buy cabinets. Also, that cabinet is weird in the one side has different lamination's.

>>1785363
Manufacturing your own arms is legal but modifying them isn't? I thought if it's personal use it's not a big deal

>>1785269
t.guy selling custom cabinets

>>1785670
Correct for personal use. The issue is about if you're making money doing it or not. If you're making money in center fire arms, you need the FFL. Even if you're doing a buddy a favor for no compensation you have to do it in one day, because legally you can't keep his gun overnight, and he has to be there with you. Black powder is a whole other ballgame.

>>1785898
To add, the way I read the first post I assumed that Anon wants to start stocking rifles, or repairing or altering them, for customers. If he just wants to stock a few for his own use then by all means go right ahead, that's as legal as the day is long; sorry for the confusion.

>>1785630
>>1785882
Sorry I guess I wasn't being open enough, I was laughing at it.

claimed it was "innovative drawers"

>>1785953
if by innovative he means absolute trash then i agree.

Guys what type of wood should I use.

I'm looking to make a new paint box for myself, and in large part rip off this design but add some improvements.

I'll be using it outside mostly. I previously made a box for myself with basswood and 3/16 plywood, but it toppled over and ruptured at the basswood side.

What type of wood is strong enough to not break from falling a few feet and also be strong enough at the bottom and top lid, but still not be too heavy? Does rot resistance matter at all if you're putting a finish on it? The last box i finished with linseed oil...

>>1778315

ooh baby, like butter

Making a crokinole board\
Planning on using plywood, is this stupid?
would other woods be better for waxing and keeping nice?

>>1787047
of course I forgot the image

>>1776005
/thread

>>1787003
keep it in your pants!

>>1784057
remove the frame with force, glue together with clamps piece by piece?

How long does it takke to install new soffits? Especially if your only doing one half of the house?

This is sort of wood-working related. Redid the "tiki" bar out back with my time spent at home.
Used a router to make the floorboards (now the bartop) stable without any other fasteners.

>>1788955
This looks really nice. I like how you repurposed and recyled too. Now go get a beer - well deserved

>>1781127
I started with a cheap double sided Japanese style pull saw. I was surprised at how fast and easy it was to use with a little practice

>>1787047
That's solid wood on the board sides.

The challenge with ply is working with the ends and edges. If they're exposed, it's nice for that to look appropriate. Also it can be a challenge to find a veneer on the ply you're happy with. Sometimes I'll see good veneers on cheaper plywoods and pick them up. Other times a store won't have a decent looking ply anywhere on site.

Does anyone know if a PDF or something exists that lists all types of wood joints or tools/ purposes. I want to learn woodwork during the quarantine.

>>1779674
>too strong
no such thing, only weak men

>>1778676
Try to search your area (using internet or asking old guys) for lumber suppliers. Using Lowe's/Home Depot is fine for the odd project or two, but dear lord their better-quality wood is over priced.

>>1789283
There's places where you can download a bunch of woodworking related .pdf files that you would otherwise have to pay for. Like where you would download a game or software or movie or something. You know.

>>1790613
I actually didn't think I'd find PDFs for on it those websites but sure enough I did found them. Thanks.

I'm quarantined and can't get to the hardware store, in a pinch, would wood glue + water be a suitable finish for a birdhouse like pic related. Would cooking oil do better? Any other wacky alternatives?

>>1791182
Linseed oil?

What bits do people use with their impact drivers, specifically Makita?
I’m getting a nice tax return, so yesterday I treated myself to pic related combo, to save my wrist that’s a bit iffy after a climbing injury.
While it works fantastically for actually driving screws (wear ear protection tho) I can’t get any of my bits to stick in the holder.
It seems to have a retaining mechanism similar to one you’d find in a quick release bit holder, but the ball in the mechanism is in the middle of one of the six sides, not on the corner as the notches you normally find in bits.

I must admit I hoped when buying a “proper” tool it would come with a bit set included, but it only came with a single double ended bit, flat head and PH2, which incidentally doesn’t lock either.

Anyone read "Exercises in Woodworking"? A friend is doing a dung-out of old books and he has this as a hardcover. Is it worth taking off his hands?

Sorry for bad photo
I have this shitty table from Walmart in my apartment and I find myself in need of a place to use a jigsaw. I'm going to cut along the black&red outline to make a rectangular hole I can use.
This is a weak ass table though, and I'm scared that if I cut 3 sides, the 4th side will break off and leave a bunch of uneven splintery bullshit. Is there a way to cut the table to minimize chance of that happening? I thought about finding something to put under the part I'm cutting to hold it up, but nothing in my room is the right size. Either way too short or too tall

I picked up a CZ-75 recently and was planning on buying some wood grips for it, but since I'm home with nothing to do I think it might be fun to try and make some instead. I have basic tools and basic experience with woodworking (especially cosplay prop making etc.) but not a lot with hardwoods. Any recommendations for a wood I'd be likely to find at a big box hardware store that might make some nice grips?

>>1791832
Try walnut from Home Depot, it could match well with the dark finish in the pistol.

>>1791595
Try to use this type https://www.maxbo.no/bits-torx-70mm-t15x5-dt7291-dewalt-sett-med-5-bits-p872977?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs7ms2vLM6AIVlxoYCh3oSQx2EAQYAiABEgK3J_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Are there any big box stores that stocks jack planes? I'd order one off of Amazon, but I'm not sure if the shipping day shown would be true or if it'll be a month long delay

Found a wee table saw on CL for $40. The only non-iron/steel parts I could find were the on/off buttons. Fence needs some work or maybe a new system altogether. Table, front face and wings are square, unmolested and a good candidate for a T fence. Will update.

>>1791182
Melt down some old paraffin candle wax, beeswax, or carnauba car wax. It will protect the piece for a time but won't be as long lasting or make the colors pop like other varnishes and oils. If you want to get fancy you can mix some mineral spirits and essential oils into your wax blend. Mmmm citrus and sandalwood.

>>1791720
What's the material and thickness you're trying to cut with a jigsaw? Not the desk, your project.

Recommended: A small hole in table for the jig saw blade (30mm at most), keep the jig saw mostly stationary with one hand over the hole and feed/rotate your work material with the other.

If you have to: Try wide tape. When you finish one length cut with your circ saw, tape the top and bottom before moving onto the next plunge cut.

Eastern euro engineering: Bolt your jigsaw to the center underside of your desk with the blade up through small hole. We bandsaw now.

>>1791832

In those parts of the world with any amount of forest there are usually many places to buy hardwood, from small mom&pop millers and kilners that sell directly to individuals to specialty hardwood-only shops with large premises and many dozens of species. There are also woodworker supply shops with a small supply of excellent boards and regular lumberyards that carry some hardwood inventory alongside their usual SPF.

Some large cities have professional tree removers that rip logs into planks to sell (sometimes finished to varying degrees). While they have no interest in selling tiny quantities of wood they're usually pretty friendly and can tell you who they sell to that might help you out.

Big box stores rarely stock more than 2-5 species and usually the specimins are of the lowest acceptable quality. They'll usually come in a handful of shapes and sizes, usually no cutoffs for small projects. Down any of those routes above only can you find a piece of wood that is perfect for your grips but you'll almost certainly find it WAY cheaper than at any big box store!

>>1792084
ToolKraft (aka Darra-James) made decent stuff. They are basically on the same level as Sears Craftsman stuff from the same era. It has got a 3/4th HP motor which means it's likely the Model 88A-K, which was their 3rd best saw out of 4 models offered. 1967 catalog snipping pictured. The model should be stamped in the sheet metal above and to the right of the power switch. If it is the Model 88, that means it takes an 8-inch sawblade (The 9 and 10 inch models being higher end). The reason it is in such good shape is they would chrome plate their tables back in the late '60s. Not a common feature at all. Otherwise, they are pretty bog-standard tools of the era. Less stoutly built than machines from earlier eras but worlds better than anything ever made in China. $40 was a great price though.

They are kinda still around:

http://toolkraft.com/

They stopped making stuff 35 years ago and have been selling what I believe is NOS inventory since then. If you ever find one of those molding cutter heads made for table saws, now you know where you can source more cutters for it.

>>1791649
Probably. The thing about woodworking is it is not really a science. It is more of an art. You might read 5 different books and they might teach you 3 different ways each to do the same thing. It is not like there is one book that has the one way to get the desired result. I've read a few dozen woodworking books over the years and they can be highly specific to the era they were written in, the tools they expect you to use, and the experience level they expect you to have. If it is free it will almost certainly be worth it if you have nothing else

That said, I've always had great success finding DIY books at libraries.

>>1792113
>I've read a few dozen woodworking books over the years
I'm jealous! How did you go about reading them? Cover to cover, a chapter at a time, or a section of interest/need over time as you had time? I'm in a situation where I need to fix in time to read, pretty much force myself to study, as it were.

>>1791850
Yeah, walnut is pretty classic for this kind of thing. I'll see if I can find any that's nice.

>>1792089
In normal times I'd go with a specialty hardwood place or one of the other options you suggest but I'm not sure that's an option with everything under lockdown. Big box hardware stores are one of the few things still open and that's why I was talking about getting wood from one.

>>1792142
Cover to cover mostly. When I have downtime I read books. I go to a lot of yard and estate sales and I always keep an eye out for "dirty paper". Manuals, instructions books, catalogs, that kind of thing. I have stuff like old Sunset Magazine books, DIY books, how-to manuals, a Mechanix Illustrated DIY encyclopedia (cost like 20 bucks for the set), etc. Often times companies would put out how to use manuals for their specific tools. Craftsman had a bunch. So did Rockwell/Delta. I even have a couple of textbooks that we used in college courses for things like woodworking, carpentry, and welding.

What’s the ideal joinery method for a nightstand? Dowels? Or just plain old screws/nails?

>>1792151
This kind?

>>1792151
Or this kind?

>>1792157
Or maybe this kind?

>>1792156
what book is this from?

>>1792143
Use firewood. This is a small ash log that I'll use the clear sections for spoons. In your application it will be some work to find a straight knot free log, get a clean split, sawing to dimensions, and planing down to pistol grip thickness. Its free though.

>>1792111
Its an 88a. One thing that stood out was (the chromed table notwithstanding) a cogged belt drive. I'm impressed you have knowledge about this brand of tools and even more that you found a picture of it. Bing and Google have pretty much no history of the brand. Montgomery Ward catalog?

>>1775913
Im wanting to build a simple coffee table. my skills are intermediate at best. can someone post some inspo/design plans. it would be much appreciated.

Is the DeWalt 779 a decent miter saw? Its on sale for $350, I don't have much in the way of tools or experience, except a year and a half of woodworking in high school.

I just looked up what an 1.5in desktop would me, $2000. I'm also balking at >$3000 bookcases. Fuck this, I can be a decent carpenter if I want to.

>>1793366
Carpenters don't make furniture. They cut 2x4s with circular saws and fasten then together with nailguns.

>>1793141
I got that from a Google Images search and didn't save the page. Oddly, a Google Image search using that image brings up nothing.

>>1793215
>Its an 88a
It was called the A-K in 1967 and had a different number completely in 1962 so its probably from somewhere in between there.

VintageMachinery.org has an impressive collection of manuals, catalogs, and history on their site. That is where I got the catalog page from. They have a section about the company there under its original name; Darra-James. I knew a little about the company because they made some tools sold by Montgomery Wards under the Power-Kraft brand and I found about them researching that.

Also, OWWM.org forums, another invaluable resource. Sign up, as most of the sub-forums are hidden.

>>1791861
I figured it out, it was just me being retarded. The chuck won't grip bits, but it will grip bit holders with the indent going all the way round the base.

PEBWAC

>>1792142
Just buy all the Lost Art Press books, as rapidly as you can afford them. And read them how you like.
So far I haven't bought a single dud, they're all fantastic.

I was reading about the dangers of wood particles a while back and realized ive probably shortened my lifespan a few years from routing and not wearing mask.
That being said I havent fully learned my lesson and want to put a shapeoko sized cnc machine in my den. I dont have a shed or anything like a garage. If I attach a shop vac near the spindle would this be acceptable for indoor use or would the wood particles still kill me slowly.

>>1793399
>Carpenters don't make furniture. They cut 2x4s with circular saws and fasten then together with nailguns.
That's wonderful, but doesn't really answer my question.

Hey bros, I want to give woodworking figures a try.
Could anyone tell me what tools this guy is using in this video?
https://old.reddit.com/r/Naruto/comments/fwyzns/me_carving_naruto_shippuden_out_of_mahogany_wood/

I know they're rotary tools but of course a million options come up when I search for them online.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Looks like I'll need a large, medium, and a small bit/tool?

>>1775913
How do I combat micro-fracturing on the edges of my planes? I don't have any camera that can take a picture of the actual leading edge, but there are a few chips that are large enough to be visible to the naked eye in sufficient light. Regardless, the edge is fucked after very little work on relatively soft wood. Oak/maple, not walnut or some edge destroyer 9000 meme wood.

What the fuck do I do to fix this? Surely I've done something wrong, this can't be a normal scenario.

>>1792084
comfy belt drive

>>1792151
>>1792156
>>1792157
>>1792158
Nightstands have no pressure on them whats however so the decision is entirely AeStHeTiC

I just treated my two cutting boards with (home-made) boiled linseed oil (wiped off the rest).
I placed the boards vertically, do I leave them grain-vertical, or grain-horizontal, or do I put them down level to the countertop (in a tray)?
Pic distantly related, I bought the boards untreated.

Beginner question to add, if the boards are treated properly (with several thin layers as I understand), what sort of cleaning method do I utilize after use? Raw meat bits, coloring herbs, etc. Do I use detergent, or just a steel sponge to scrub?

>>1795030
>he doesn't jump up on the edge like Matthias Wandel to test the load strength or plow his gf on a tiny night stand.

I want to make a rectangular plank desktop for a standing desk. I'm think of several boards with tongue and grove joints for 72"x~30x1" or 1.5". I'd like to do a forever desk, so I want a nicer looking grain and color with a super smooth finish. I'll have a 35" ultrawide and bookshelf speakers, maybe my tower and laser printer if I can fit them.

What wood would you go with?

>>1794902
I haven't noticed anything like that on my iron after planing Oak and even after chopping/ramming down the endgrain of a cherry block after an uneven cut with the saw. It still planes fine afterwards.

Are you sharpening to some super high grit? That might be making the edge really weak.

Any good books on shop design?

>>1795139
Yeah, it's both laminate steel, so the actual leading edge is quite hard, and I sharpen to 8k before stropping. Should I put on a steeper micro-bevel? It's essentially unusable for hardwood as it stands now.

So far I'm thinking potential changes could be a steeper bevel, softer steel, or changing the angle of the iron and how it's presented to the wood. I'd just guessed someone had run into this problem before, if it's uncommon I'll mess around with varying things and let you guys know if anything helps.

>>1795288
I'm a beginner, so my help may be very limited and I'm guessing that you're using a wooden bodied plane because of the laminated blade?

Maybe just go one or two strokes on the strop to get rid of the burr. 8000 sounds plenty polished and sharp to me, no need to go further than that, I think.

And I imagine a steeper microbevel could work since at that point it would give it a bit more support to resist the stress the 8k edge would experience against hardwood.

>>1792151
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtCGLPqk0l8

are pocket holes ever ok?

>>1795799
Why not?

>>1795288
Would be helpful to know exactly what plane you are using and what the steel of your blade is, if known.
As has been said, a steeper secondary/micro-bevel would be the correct place to start. Have you tried planing without stropping? 8k may well be enough unless the planed surface is the finished surface.

>>1795799
Good for plywood things like cabinets and shelves. Butt joints without screwing into endgrain.

>>1795941
Budget Japanese plane, steel would be "Aogane" you're not going to get more than that. If you google you can find general rules but it's handmade so it's not built to a spec. I have a set of chisels made from relatively soft stainless that I don't have this problem with, which is why I assumed the hardness was the problem. I strop the shit out of those which has been nothing but beneficial imo. Any potential weakness I could see that could come from stropping can be fixed with more stropping, because it takes seconds. My strop is next to my workbench and I spend a few seconds when anything feels a little dull/slow and isn't visibly damaged.

I'll fix my edge and add a super agressive micro-bevel and see if that solves it, if it does I'll adjust until I find a sweet spot, if it doesn't I'll let you guys know.

>>1796088
Thanks for the info. If your adjustment to the bevel geometry doesn't solve the problem, the issue may well be QC on the part of the smith. Hardness may be the problem in the sense that the "hagane" hard steel layer may have been improperly handled at some point in the forging process. This has the potential to leave the hardness far less uniform than it should be and can result in chipping or crumbling at the cutting edge.
I pretty much only use jp hand tools and can try to answer any questions you might have. Hope you get yours working.

I'm gonna go buy a table saw and a miter saw tomorrow, maybe a few other things.

>>1796163
Congrats
Don't forget a sander and glue

How would I go about refinishing a rifle stock to get a glossy look similar to pic related?

>>1796712

>>1796712
French polish probably.

You can probably do it with careful application of a glossy polyurethane

>>1796732
Would both of those methods be weather safe? I’m usually hunting in the rain, and don’t want my rifle ruined after hard work

Does anyone know of a simple resource that is just a collection of wood types with every stain imaginable on them?

>>1796712
dozens of layers of tru-oil

So I need a quick and dirty finish that I can make at home, but I don't have easy access to beeswax and the grocery shops are packed with people and I'm not sure if I could even find any boxes of canning/paraffin wax on the shelves.

Is melting down a couple candles and mixing it with some mineral oil a good bet, even if it won't be very durable?

>>1796734
The only way to 100% waterproof a stock would be to completely strip it of all hardware then submerge it in a tank of poly finish, preferably under a vacuum. To do this you'd have to take the finish thickness into account for all inletting. As to how to achieve the look on the first pic, three to four coats of Tru oil is enough. Studies have shown that more than 4 coats don't accomplish any more gloss or weatherproofing. If you're really shooting in the rain that much, and you worry about a wood stock, you should be shooting a plastic stock with all stainless hardware.

Your table saw jigs are only as good as (in order of operation); how flat the table of saw is, how square you can make the saw blade to the table, how square you can adjust the blade is to the miter slots, exact thickness and depth (minus 0.5mm) the sled runners are. Installing a basic bitch sled, dimension the exact runners width for a table saw sled. Despite all this you're gaining to fuck up some basic bitch finger joints.GOODFUCKINGDAMMIIT.

>>1798134
Those look way too thin for the grain of the wood you are using. Increase their width by like 2.5x and you will probably have less breakage.

>>1791182
soap can be used as a finish, don't know if it will work for you're needs. Just order it online.

>>1793215
keep it quite. People don't know the secrete about firewood.

>>1794902
You might be sharpening at too steep an angle. You using a jig?

>>1798134
Make a crosscut sled with a threaded rod for left right adjustment. Threads come in 1/16" per turn so it's actually very easy to turn to exact measurements using a wheel. I'll find the video later.

Can confirm your fingers are too small and will break anyway because the grain direction is wrong. Ask me how I know.

>>1793912

you can get shrouds for routers that connect to a vacuum. the shrouds help direct the dust to the vacuum port but aren't enough by themselves. you should get a good dust mask or respirator in addition. wood dust can be pretty bad for you, especially mdf.

>>1784622
damn son that finish is LIT. good job!

>>1799904
>wood
>MDF
MDF is not wood. It is sawdust and glue. Sawdust isn't a huge concern unless you are in it all the time. It is not like rock dust. Your body can break it down and clear it out as long as you aren't huffing the stuff 8 hours a day for 30 years. It's the glue in that MDF shit that is not good.

I want to make a desktop and possibly a filing cabinet. What are the minimum amount of tools I would need? I have an impact driver and a bunch of automotive tools, not so much for woodwork. The dimensions will probably be 72" x 24" and another 48" x 24". I was thinking circular saw, a drill if impact drivers are no good, orbital sander, hand plane, and then some clamps or ratchet straps if I can get away with using them instead. I will probably use 1 1/2" to 2" thick poplar or maple.

>>1787047
My Dad made me one with plywood and it looks great. Finish comes up nice on plywood, wax works, it's all good.

>>1798984
how do you know?

also i'm interested in that video

i'm sure you guys get plenty of questions from retards but here goes. i made a wine rack like pic related a while ago. i want to put a rudimentary cabinet around it so i can add temperature control later, as i let my apartment get pretty hot. right now the plan is to construct the frame from 4 1x4 hardwood boards, with the pictured 1x3 as a vertical in the middle, and a plywood backing. no miter cuts or pocket holes, just straight drilled and sanded as the bottom and top of the cabinet will not be visible. it'll be wall mounted through the 1x3 so the cabinet itself will not be bearing the weight of the bottles. does that make sense?

what i want to know is, is there anything i can do differently or add to the project to make it look better, that's within the abilities of a noshop novice?

>>1800967
Actually pretty nice. I would see a problem with temps though. Maybe the enclosure, but with glass door for temp control.

>>1801053
i did the math and guesstimated a 50W worst case loss through a glass door, neglecting everything else on the assumption that the glass losses should be dominant. the concept for the temperature control is to sandwich a few peltier coolers between an inner and outer heatsink on the bottom of the cabinet and power them from an internal chinese industrial supply. the bottom is just about the worst spot for natural convection but i'd guess i won't need the cooler to dissipate over 200W after accounting for the peltier efficiency and extra thermal loss through gaps/wood. i'm not trying to tackle that at the same time as the cabinet though, it's too much work.

I have a set of cabinets and there used to be a granite table glued to the side (kitchen table) I removed it to make an island bar instead but now there is that large mark where the table was glued. What is the best way to cover this up? I was thinking of finding someone to get a 1/16th piece of maple and stain it as best they could, then glue it on over the top.

>>1801760
That looks like a hole in the veneers. Fill the hole in with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty* to get it smooth and get a new veneer that matches. Apply the veneer and stain to match.

*Durham's is nice because it does not shrink when it dries but it does get 'rock hard'. You don't want to sand it as it is a huge PITA so make sure it is smooth and level when you apply it.

>>1801808
Thanks. One thing; why would I bother filling the hole though if I’m going to cover it with the veneer?

>>1801848
Not him but it is highly advantageous when applying veneer to have total contact with whatever object you are veneering. If you veneer over a void like in your pic the probability delamination or bubbling increases.
If you are unable to remove this panel and get it in either a vacuum bag or under a lot of cauls for your glueup I would consider coming up with an alternative solution to the repair.

>>1798984
>>1798442
Tried it again and it worked out great, ty. Proper grain direction, thicker fingers, a sled with tighter tolerances but this time on a router table. I'm going to narrow the sled to it can ride on the Oem router fence for a little extra stability.

At 28, I'm very proud to be at middle school tier woodworking.

>>1775913
Old op here, I dropped out again, thanks for keeping this going. I love that webm.

>>1781127
It depends on the exact saw, the joint being cut and the wood. In the finer toothed saws, rip pattern will often do cross cutting just fine. That is a nice sized tenon saw, all the US makers have increased the length/depth of the back saws, while they each can do more jobs now, it was an poor choice over all. Sure, I can cut most of my furniture sized tenons with just my dovetail saw, but it is a pain to use for smaller dovetail work and the tenon saws are sized for light framing work but with a tpi suitable for fine joinery.

>>1781148
A tenon saw is a type of back saw, even in the southern states. A back saw is a family of saws with a metal spine to keep the blade stiff.

>>1789131
The ryoba is the best tenon saw ever, quick and simple tenon cutting, cut the shoulder, flip the blade over and do the cheeks. They take a fair amount more practice than a back saw to get good with, got to learn to steer a ryoba, back saw you just set it on its path and let the saw do the work.

>>1796712
Lots of oil, but do not fall for the tru-oil, it is just linseed and turps with a massive markup. Thin boiled linseed with turpentine until it is thin enough to soak full into the wood. Apply a coat a day until it is built up well on the surface, buff to a gloss.


>>1796732
French Polish/Shellac is not good around high moisture, hence the white rings left by sweating glasses on our tables. It is not hard to remedy the cloudy finish caused by moisture soaking into shellac, but you will spend a fair amount of time doing on something that is regularly out in the weather.

>>1797113
That would be no more waterproof than many coats of oil. There is no reason to get the finish that deep into the wood, just makes sure it does not get into the wood in the first place.

>>1796712
Forgot to say, for high gloss use Tung oil, linseed and linseed based finishes like Danish oil and Tru-Oil do not get that sort of gloss. Make sure to get pure tung oil and not a tung oil finish, which have other things added. Just follow the directions above, thin and coat. You can also add some Japan drier or a metalic drier like cobalt if you want to speed up the dry time, tung can be slow to dry, especially in cool damp weather, even the heavily thined oil can take a few days to dry in such conditions. In standard human comfort zone weather, should be dried by the next day if properly thinned, even without the drier.

>>1801856
Okay that makes sense. Any ideas for an alternate solution assuming I most likely can’t remove it? Sorry, I’m kind of at a loss here. Thanks for the help.

>>1801973
Just fill the holes with offcuts of the venner, you most likely will have excess anyways. Just score around the damaged area with a knife and chisel away the veneer to make it a nice regularly shaped rectangle to patch, glue in the patch, sand smooth and veneer over. Putty will work, but it has the downside of not moving with the seasonal changes in the wood and can cause the veneer to delaminate. Putty is designed to fill small voids where movement is not an issue, it is not bondo.

>>1801932
A gunstock has a decent amount of screws in it: buttpad screws, action screws, possibly grip cap screws and sling swivel screws. If you don't seal those then humidity will affect the placement of your shot groups from day to day, humidity to humidity. Poly finishes are more waterproof than natural oils, not by much, but on an autistic level they are, and in order to seal every single pore you will have to submerge the stock in finish after it's been stripped of all hardware. We're not talking about a coffee spill on a table, we're talking about a three hundred yard shot being off by two inches because today it's 75% humidity versus the 25% it was the last time you took a shot. For the record, I think there are other things that need to be accounted for even more, but I'll stand by my assertion that to actually waterproof a stock you'll have to submerge it in a poly finish.

>>1801973
Forgot to finish my thought. To attach the veneer you can just use a veneer hammer, pretty much just a wooden squegee. Apply glue, rub hard with the veneer hammer, trim the excess. This works best with hide glue, the liquid stuff from the bottle will work fine. You can also just use contact cement and a hard rubber roller. With both hide glue/veneer hammer or rubber cement/roller, startfrom the center and work towards the edges when you roll/hammer.

>>1801999
Thinned oil soaks into the wood and wicks into holes, even if there is a screw there, the screw actually will help wick it in, but it is best to remove them so you do not glue the screw to the wood with the finish or fill the screwhead. The waterproofness of poly is only good as long as the protective film covering the surface is not damaged, oil goes deeper. This is why we have centuries old gun stocks and wooden boats in good working shape to this day, despite the lack of poly. You build up an 1/64th of thinned oil on the surface and oils will protect from all but extended submersion (days).

When it comes down to it, drying oils are polymers, the oils dry through polymerization, the big difference is that modern poly is formulated to go on thick in a single coat and still dry without cracking or crazing in a reasonable amount of time. This is also why you need a vacuum setup to get good penetration with most modern polys, they are too thick to soak into most woods and thining to do multiple coats that do soak in does not work very well, poly does not stick well to itself. Thinned oils will form a molecular bond with previous layers as long as the previous layer has not cured too much, you will generally have a week or two worth of leeway here and will still get a better bond than successive coats of poly for years to come. This is what makes oils such a simple finish to repair or renew, just clean an apply a fresh coat or drop fill, even after years there will still be some of this molecular bond between layers. After a few decades oils will be no better than poly at bonding to themselves, but a fresh coat of oil every few years is all it takes to stop that from happening, there will always be a layer of oil young enough to bond well.

There are polys that will work well thinned and stick to themselves, but they do not offer anything over oils other than increased cost.

>>1801998
>Putty is designed to fill small voids where movement is not an issue,
Durham's is recommended for filling large holes. I have used it for filling in doorknob holes and mail slot holes without issue in exterior doors. Other putties can have issues though.

>>1802024
I don't really disagree with what you're saying, but I don't think you realize how most guys are taught to finish a gunstock. On a very regular basis there is zero finish under the hardware at all, let alone where the screw hole is. This isn't necessarily because of laziness either, these parts are precision fit (or should be...) so a layer of finish can actually interfere with the fit if it's not accounted for. So I guess it's not really a matter of what finish is more waterproof (though it kind of is), it's more about how to apply it to every single square inch of the surface. And I've shot plenty of rifles that were finished by being submerged in linseed, and I'm here to tell you that it doesn't waterproof them as far as accuracy goes, so the whole process is suspect in my book. But I've known guys that say the way I've said works the best. I give them a 4/10 possibility of being right, take that as you will.

>>1796712
listen to >>1796828
A lot of guitar finishers stole the use of tru-oil. It's practically fool proof stuff and does wonders. Other finishes take a lot of steps, equipment, and technique.

>>1802042
Reccomended does not mean better, it will work, even regular wood putty will work here, but the offcuts of the veneer are free and i will have the job done and ready for finish before the putty is dry.

>>1802045
Submerging in linseed, or any finish, does not insure waterproofness. If it is unthinned linseed and a dense wood, it will not soak in and provide little protection since the bulk will be wipped away when pulled from the bath or take months to dry and leave a a mess of a finish full of runs and sags. If it is over thinned it will not build on the surface at all and never seal the wood. If you were to mix it just right you would get a decent amount of protection, but never near as much as you would get from the mthod I described above. As for the fit of parts being ruined by the finish, thinned oil beats poly here hands down, you just stop applying the oil in those areas that require a percision fit and you have a good amount of protection, the metal will start rusting before the wood starts rotting if moisture gets that bad in these parts. You can not really do this with polys since the bond of poly to itself is purely mechanical, you leave an open edge where you stopped the finish and moisture can and will wick in here. Traditionally the metal parts would be bedded in something like pine tar to protect both the metal and the wood in places where moisture can be trapped, this is good practice with either poly or oil but I would not use pine tar personally, it never dries and will run out on hot days, plenty of great modern alternatives. Poly has its uses, but it is no better than oil, they both are only as good as the application, neither can make up for the users ignorance.

>>1802071
>you just stop applying the oil in those areas that require a percision fit
Lost part of the thought there. You just stop appling the oil once it starts to build on the surface in those areas.

I posted in here with my desk plans months ago, finally finished it and thought I'd post results. Pretty happy with it, but will need to sand and re-finish the tabletop sometime.

>>1802390
That looks sick, where did you get the metal supports from?

>>1802408
Thanks.
if you google "Furniture Legs Cabinet Metal Owfeel Stainless Steel Metal Adjustable Furniture Leg for Sofa Table Cabinets Shelves Set of 4 50x50mm" thats the product description on amazon.

>>1775913
That webm is ridiculously cool

also, for free books, try libgen: http://gen.lib.rus.ec/

>>1802623
How is everyone getting wood currently? Was thinking of having some wood deliverered from BIGBOX store.

Have another woodporn webm.

Hey all, I asked this on /k/ but I think here makes more sense.

I'm feeling restless due to Corona and want to make a new stock for my Ruger 1022. I'm thinking I'll use beech laminate and I'll go for a design similar to pic related.
I'm familiar with carpentry, my dad has been one for years and I'll have access to his workshop. However I'm no craftsman and this would be one of my biggest projects.
Anyone got tips? Either about this project or working with wood in such a manner in general.
I know things to keep in mind are barrel harmonics and stock strength. I'm mostly worries about not having any weak spots that'll crack of I drop the gun.

>>1801886
Nice I made one too

if i'm just concerned about keeping a piece of plywood on my garage floor relatively clean from footprints/tire marks and want a relatively rough texture so i can have grip, is one coat of polyurethane good enough?

>>1803138
I just go to the lumber yard as normal. Whos the moron in the video? There is good reason for mortise chisels to have the extra meat, standard chisels are not prying tools. If you lack a mortise chisel then drill out the waste, pare the cheeks and leave the ends round, square ends surve no real advantage but they are great at jamming a bevel edged chisel, so just leave them be and round the tenon to match. If you need a square tenon for aesthetics on a through tenon, then nibble back slower than expected using just the weight of your upper body or arm muscles to drive it through.

Also, why is the first chop in that video into what looks like nice clear ash and the rest of the video into knotty poplar? I assume he started making the video and quickly realized he was going to snap his chisel in half so moved to a more forgiving wood.

>>1803243
One coat will work, but it will not last very long. If you want a good texture for grop, dust with sand after the last coat.

>>1803270

how many coats would you recommend then?

>>1803283
If I wanted it to last I would prime and then do a couple coats of a good floor paint, sprinkle with sand if good traction is needed. But what the fuck do I know about what sort of abuse this is going to take? Give it one coat and see how long it takes to need a second coat.

>>1803288

it's a weightlifting platform. i also drive my car on top. not worried about engine leaking oil based on where the engine/transmission is.

>>1803270
Regular chisels do fine with making mortises in a pinch if you aren't trying to pry out too thick of a chunk. They can get a little bit squirrely with twisting, but even then it's no big deal, just straighten out with the next go.

>>1803313
Also it's demonstration for both non knotted and knotted wood/how to make a mortise through a knot. I'm not sure how you got chisel snappage out of that.

>>1803298
paint it, throw sand on it. Will serve better than poly.

>>1803313
I never said they did not work in a pinch, just said there is better ways to go about it that does not risk a chisel. I suspect you are the sort that would call at least half of my chisels 'regular chisels,' there is no such thing. There is no reason to do this sort of thing, just grab the drill and remove the waste that way, it will go faster than mortising with a bench chisel. Or just drop the $15 on the cheep and cheerful Narex mortise chisels if you must mortise with a chisel.

Some people just have to break an expensive chisel before they learn.

Any particular way I should go about fixing my guitar? It got knocked over but I think it would be cool to keep the damage visible by rubbing some dark stain in the cracks so it's basically a scar.

I'm not super concerned with maintaining the utmost musical clarity or anything, but am definitely open to a smarter way to fix this short of flooding it with epoxy and clamping it flush

>>1803348
The top is crushed and likely broken away from the kerfing and there could very well be a seperated brace or too, Anything but a checkup and repair done by someone who knows their shit is likely to become a bigger and more expensive problem with time. Either stain or epoxy will just make things worse.

>>1803347
They're chisels whether they're some high end brand or a plastic handle set from Harbor Freight. "No such thing" my ass. It's all the same carbon steel or chrome vanadium nowadays.
Sounds like you're the sort that would scoff at the cheap marples ones even through they work and hold an edge just as well.

But go ahead and tip toe around your expensive chisels like they'd shatter from a mean look. I'll keep my $14 set.

>>1803370
Who said anything about expensive chisels? My most expensive chisels are a couple Sorby Sash mortises, But I am probably being an elitist and trying to keep wood working out of the hands of people like you by suggesting you just remove the bulk with a drill and not risk your chisel.

All those chisels probably cost me about $200 total spread out over 20 years, maybe $250. I am in the process of turning my old marples into butt chisels to fill the void, two left. Really need to make ferrules for the skew chisels, not really needed as they are useless for chopping and prying, but they look incomplete without them. Been thinking of splurging on a set of the Narex mortise chisels since those can be gotten in imperial to match the rest of my tools and I am not really a fan of the Sorby's, excessively long for my needs. I only bought the Sweethearts because they were a ridiculous deal on sale at $100 and the edge on the marples do not hold up well to chopping. For over a decade my only chisels were the marples and the three I made, which I only made because life sucked and I needed a project that cost nothing so I went at some files with a grider.

stay mad.

>>1803478
>>1803370
Can't go wrong with an old set of Stanley No. 60s paring chisels. They made them for decades so you are bound to find a set if you go to enough estate sales. They were built for use by tradesmen who were drunk half the time and had retard strength so you know they will last. They were made in America and used actual steel. Not whatever that lead and aluminum alloy China tries to pass off as steel is. I've picked up several sets over the years for very reasonable prices. Sometimes as little as $0.50 apiece.

>>1803478
You are straight up being elitist.
Just because people go about doing mortises a different way with what you consider an improper tool does not warrant being a dickwad about it like you did with the woodworker in the video by calling him a moron, then making wildass assumptions about it from an obvious edit. If it works, it works. You might not find it ideal, but others find it perfectly adequate in situations where a drill would either be overkill or inaccessible.

>>1803499
Those are good chisels and I started wood working with my dads set , but they are not paring chisels, they are American pattern butt chisels. The shorter blade means you can pry without as much risk of snapping the blade, your lever is shorter so you have less mechanical advantage. American pattern butt chisels are better are taking abuse than anything else. A paring chisel generally has a long and flexible blade so you can spring the blade against the work and are amoungst the worst for taking abuse, prying chips out of a mortise is a sure way to put a permanent bend into the balde. They are not much fun to hit with a mallet anyways, like beating a spring.

The one gotcha here is that there are also short blade versions of paring chisels that look exactly like your standard bench chisel and a long blade version of bench chisels that look exactly like a paring chisel. All this leads to old paring chisels being the hardest to find in useable order, most have bent blades from being used like one uses a bench chisel. One should never chop or pry with a paring chisel. To confuse things further, there are also some paring chisels in butt form and are meant for those times when control is more important than power. This is the European form of the butt chisel and has an egg shaped handle that fits well in the palm, they tend to have very hard steel that excell at paring but quickly chips when chopping or prying.

The handles of the #60 shows what it is meant for, clearly a handle meant for striking, not for pushing. The handle of a paring chisel will generally have a rounded end for comfort in the palm when pushing.

The forerunner to the #60, the #50 is one of the best butt chisels ever, you can beat the hell out of it thanks to its full length steel tang and cap, but it is still comfortable in the hand for paring. This one has yet to be fixed up so it missed the photo shoot earlier.

>>1803508
OK, I am an elitist for suggesting one not abuse their tools.

>>1803138
>looking up workbench bench builds on YouTube
>watch a series by Paul Sellers
>see this clip
Pff, nice. Maybe I'll mix this with some stuff by Rex Kreuger, the leg vise build is pretty sweet and him flying together the staircase boards for the build is a nice idea to save some time.

https://youtu.be/jVbuBGSfLC4
https://youtu.be/eiwtBs-9Dco

>>1803514
>OK, I am an elitist for suggesting one not abuse their tools.
Which won't happen if you're careful and know the limits of the tool or chisel. You won't pry and flick out a chunk an inch or inch and a half thick piece with a non-mortising chisel that's stuck like half or more than half way inside of a piece of hardwood, right? You'd go at it bit by bit, like a 1/4 inch thick at an inch deep. Especially if it's a 1/4 inch chisel that's being used for a thin mortise.

Slower, but works and won't put an extreme amount of stress on the chisel.

>>1803520
>flying
Jesus. Gluing.

>>1803520
Leg vises are great, but unless you primarilly want a vise for jointing large boards by hand, they have a tendency to be more of a hinderance than a help. They can only hold short or narrow boards end up for joinery work and their physicaly large size means you have to work around them, but they give great power and if you do a lot of hand jointing, they can not be beat.

I highly reccomend reading The Workbench Book by Scott Landis, he does a great job of going through the various bench and vise types and giving their strengths a weaknesses as well as giving plans for both benches and vises. It is likely on libgen and is plentiful on the used market and in libraries. Think it may have finally gone out of print though. The two workbench books by Christopher Schwarz are also good, but he has a tendency to make everything seem like the best idea ever and never give the downsides, worth a read, but only after one has read Landis.

>>1803523
I already admitted being an elitist just let it go already.

>>1803535
And it is on libgen. Thanks!

So I bought babby's first set of chisels and while waiting for the honing guide to ship I watched plenty of videos say that the primary bevel should always be 30 deg and the secondary bevel be 25 deg, but according to the honing guide the primary bevel of these chisels is around 23-24 degrees

So should I do a microbevel at 25 degrees still or go for 30 or 20 deg?

>>1803558
There are no absolutes here, the qualities of the steel, your skill, or lack of skill, the types of woods you will be working and the types cuts you will be making will determine the optimal bevel angle. The difference between optimal and general ballpark is rather small. Just go with what the chisels are already, do not worry about a secondary bevel at this time. If you find they are not staying sharp then consider adding a secondary bevel or increasing the primary bevel. Remember that most chisels will have a bit of soft steel at the edge from the tempering, so expect the first few sharpenings to not go far and the chisels to dull fast, this is normal.

The general guidlines is steeper for hardwoods, shallower for soft woods. Shallower for paring, steeper for chopping. ~25 degrees is your general purpose angle and will work acceptably in most woods for most tasks. If you are primarily using softwoods or doing exclusively paring cuts, it could be worth dropping down to ~20. If you are only chopping dovetails in hardwoods, it could be worth going up to ~30.

personally I use 25 for almost all of my chisels and avoid secondary bevels. I have a couple chisels with shallower angles, but it is very rare I use them. A fair amount of this is just personal preference.

For a person with 0 tools or knowledge of woodworking what are some basic tools and projects to do?

>>1803558
just match the primary bevel and just microbevel a couple degrees passed that. just go with whatever feels comfortable in your hand when holding it over the stone so you can easily reproduce it every time

>>1803612
Start with simple box projects IMO, that is once you have tools.

>>1803270
>Whos the moron in the video?
Paul sellers. Took some clips from some of his videos.

>[...should use mortise chisel..]
Either works well. Also, I don't think he changed from hardwood to softwood, I think it was a different mortise hole.

Stay safe!

>>1803478
>>1803499
Those look like you have too sharpen them everytime they encounter air resistance.

>>1803674
How different are bedrock planes from bailey planes? Other than how you adjust the frog and how the bottom of the frog and the spot it sits on are one big flat area of course.

Seems like there wouldn't be much of a difference, but you see some gnarly bidding wars on eBay for Stanley bedrock planes and bedrock copies by brands like Keen Kutter.

I once saw a K5 stay at like 10 bucks for 5 days and then it suddenly jumped up to like 50 bucks in the span of a few hours on the last day.

>>1803612
I like tables to start with, they adapt to size adjustments better than anything, make a mistake, table just gets a tad smaller, you may have to rework a couple joints, but no big deal, more experiance and no one will notice a table that is an inch shallower than intended. You may start with making a dining room table and end up with a coffee table, but you will be damn good by the end and that coffee table will not be any less functional despite the endless chain of mistakes. As for tools, you need to give more information regarding the sort of things/styles you would like to build and if you are interested in power tools, hand tools, or a mix.

>>1803674
I should have known. This video shows my issues with him well. He starts with a coarsly set jack and then switches to a finely set jointer. That just makes no sense, the jointer is a plane for coarse and quick work, its length allows you to take a heavy bite but still keep things true so you do not have to spend all day worrying away at the edge. That jack was the proper plane for a board of that length, he should worked it to a hairs width from the line, set the blade fine and finished it off. He knows this but he still pushes the full set of bench planes.

>but a jack plane has a cambered blade.
No, it has what ever sort of blade you give it. In practice cambered blades only serve to add an extra step and complicate sharpening. They are great for the plane makers though. $$$.

>>1803682
Luckily for you, looks have little to do with function.

>>1803740
No different just a plane. They are better made than the standard planes Stanley made at the time, but in practice they offer little. It still comes down to setup and skill.

Finished this up last night using a jigsaw, table saw, palm sander and Japanese hand saw. The main wood is mahogany and the pegs are walnut. I used medium walnut colored danish oil for the stain.

>>1803790
> looks have little to do with function
This is a pretty big lie but okay.

>>1803833
Are you the aussie lamp anon that used to post here when you were starting out?

Finished this up last night using a jigsaw, table saw, palm sander and Japanese hand saw. The main wood is mahogany and the pegs are walnut. I used medium walnut colored danish oil for the stain.

>>1803836
No but this is my first serious wood project. Actually the wise anons in this thread helped me decide on what tools to buy.

>>1803790
What are you talking about? Sellers straight up says that the plane that he uses 99% of the time is a jack plane, that for him a jointer isn't necessary at all, so he rarely if ever uses one. He goes on to say that if you like using one, then by all means have fun doing what works for you. That's one of the cool things about him: he admits that there's more than one way to do almost everything. It makes him a decent teacher, and approachable.

>>1803834
Just checked, my ugly table still performs as well as my pretty table. Perhaps you just reacted and read that as "looks serve no function," which is not at all what I said.

>>1803874
i deleted my post because you deleted yours. Well done, keep up the good work.

>>1803893
I was refering to a single video. This brings up another issue with him, he constantly condradicts himself, he is the universal argument, you can find the Sellers post/video to back up almost anything, even terrible tool damaging techniques. This has gotten so bad that many tool sellers/makers have started to add Paul Sellers disclaimers on tools.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/hirsch7straightgouge35mm.aspx

This is a carving chisel, which is not at all designed for how he uses it, but the cult of Paul says "Paul did it so it is clearly the fault of the tool" and the maker/seller takes the hit. He does more damage than good and quite often teaches plain old poor technique, not alternative ways. A good teacher does not teach you things you will have to unlearn down the road. He knows this is not good technique for the tool and I would bet there is a video which predates the spoon video where he says as much.

>>1803913
>have started to add Paul Sellers disclaimers on tools.

That's hilarious. Instead of being glad that he "promotes" their tools, they have to explain that he's a moron.

>>1791182
stain it brown with some vinegar

What's better for a table top in terms of rigidity? Plywood or butcherblock? I don't really have the means to make a butcherblock but I glue and cut two plywood sheets, so the plywood is tons cheaper

>>1803990
If the thickness of the two tops is equal, plywood will be both more stable and stiffer.

>>1803994
Do any of the big box stores carry decent plywood brands? I've tried some of the generic stuff like sande but I found hollow spots and some delamination

>>1803995
Will have to go up to something like Baltic birch ply to avoid voids, it is the most common void free ply I know of. At that point the psuedo butchwe block laminated tops start looking like a better deal and certainly less work.

>>1804000
>psuedo butchwe block laminated tops
What are these?

>>1784057
accept your losses and buy some epoxy and epoxy the cracks, use gold and call it a Kintsukuroi piece

I'm using tung oil to finish an oak desk top. I've never used the stuff before, but I'm really pleased with it after 3 coats.
I'm wondering how long I need to wait after the final coat before actually using the desk. I'm seeing lots of contradictory stuff about curing time etc.

>>1804009
https://www.google.com/search?q=laminated%20counter%20top

They call them butcher block, but they are laminated. Butcher block is end grain up, laminated is long grain up.

>>1804013
Tung oil based finishes never really stop curing, but they are generally dry to the touch within a day and functional within a few. The one thing to watch out for is leaving heavy things on for extended periods until it is cured hard enough to be sure it does not imprint. A week is generally plenty but there are many variables, a few weeks if you are worried. Personally I call it good when I can not smell the finish on my hand after whiping my hand across the surface, generally takes a few days to get there.

>>1804017
>https://www.google.com/search?q=laminated%20counter%20top
>They call them butcher block, but they are laminated. Butcher block is end grain up, laminated is long grain up.
I see, thanks. Probably stick with plywood

Would a round bottom work as a good shape for a semi do-all spokeshave? I'm in the process of jury rigging one since almost no stores near me stock any and the one that did, it was the kind with a very steep concave, sold out of it's only one.

This is also pretty much experimental and a spur of the moment build, so I don't mind if it doesn't hold up when it's completed.

>>1804034
Flat sole is the general purpose spoke shave, they can do a fair amount of curved work with relative ease as well breeze through flat work. Curved, convex and concave spoke shaves are very much specialty tools and no where near as useful as a flat sole.

Perhaps in the next thread I will do a write up/plans regarding spoke shave construction, was just about to do up a large shave anways and the info on the web is fairly scant and largely focusing on the veritas/hock kits which are kind of putzy designs that I am not a fan of.

>>1804109
After looking through my supplies it seems I lack a suitably sized bit of steel for a blade, so it probably will not be the next thread unless I decide to do a veritas/hock style blade.

>>1804109
That's good to know and makes it easier that I won't really have to shape the sole. Just the handles.
Man, I wish I had some tool steel.

>>1803682
Nope. High-quality steel. They came out in the 50s when plastic was the new "in" thing and only appeared on high-end tools. Their wooden-handled versions were cheaper even though they were longer. Picture related. This was back when Stanley was the gold standard for tools.

Any of you wood anons know the cheapest place I would buy and cut some wood beams? I’m not trying to build anything fancy, just a raised platform for a mattress that I could also store stuff under. Would be about 3.5 feet tall.

>>1804184
Nigeria.

>>1779523
This might be frowned upon (I'm new to this board), but when I'm out foraging for wood stock, I literally just bring a rubber mallet, pry bar, and battery powered sawzall.
Wood pallets can be knocked/pried apart with minimal damage, allowing you to retain their original edges for working at home. For other random things that are too big to fit in my car, I do a single cut, literally using the pry bar as a guide.

My philosophy is that it's not worth spending an extra 20 minutes in some strangers driveway, attempting to make the best cuts that will still need to be straightened on the equipment at home.

>>1779523
Stop trying to watch the reflection as you saw, use the reflection to set the saw, then focus on making sure your wrist does not twist and your arm moves in a straight line. There is a certain amount of trust required. Cheap saws almost always have an excessive amount of set which does not help things, and they often have more set on one side than the other, which will make them drift, you can identify that by how your cut goes off, if it always drifts the same direction and at the same angle, probably the teeth on the side it drifts too have more set than the other side.

Cheap saws are false economy these days, their teeth are generally too hard to reset and the set is too excessive to just stone back. There are some good deals in saws, but you will have to step up to the $40 or $50 price range. Or if you do not mind learning to joint, set, and sharpen a saw, you can get some old saws for cheap and fix them up, but it is worth while to get at least one good saw that is known to be setup well so you have a bench mark of how a saw is supposed to work.

>>1803682
I use leather/compound to touch up after I pound a couple of holes. Harder wih the plane blades, but I touch up everymorning. This reduces my need to go full kit.

>>1803837
Looks nice. Shame about the mortise hole though. I find that if I do a light edge with a chisel, the tear out is minimal, and the junction looks sharp.

You should get a Stanley smoother plane. Properly sharpened, you can almost skip the sanding.

Design has a Japan feel to it. I wonder if you put Japan looking picture/etching, you could make a cmercial lamp. Give a nice warm glow. If you designed yourself, congrats... maybe make a standing lamp in the same style.

>>1804184
Big box has non treated squared beams. But when I was in college, I made a platform bed with storage underneath using general purpose lumber. Platform beds are good for the back, but hard on your knees when in missionary sex position, btw. Unless you have a thick matress which dorms don't have.

>>1803913
Okay. Let's go through this so we can correct you being wrong.
>>>Those look like you have too sharpen them everytime they encounter air resistance.
(This means they look like poor quality. They're Stanley so they are since they're made of chinese chrome-vanadium.)
>>Luckily for you, looks have little to do with function.
(This is wrong inherently. It was just a stupid thing to day. "Looks" is a deflective term but in this instance looks are indicative of quality which again is indicative of effectiveness in function.)
>Just checked, my ugly table still performs as well as my pretty table. Perhaps you just reacted and read that as "looks serve no function," which is not at all what I said.
(Perhaps you have the reading comprehension of a plumber. The original statement and you talking about how attractive your [probably] shitty tables are not correlated.)

>>1804283
Thank you anon. Do you remember how you built the support structure beneath? I have several ideas of what I might do, but don’t know how much would be overkill or not supportive enough. I mostly do hand wood carving and have little experience making furniture, but wanted to make this for my brother’s birthday.

>>1804304
Was a simple loft bed. Made one for roommate too. He bought the carpet, and the girls since he was very popular with the ladies.

>>1804281
I used a 1/2” chisel for the squares. I was just sloppy/inexperienced. I hope with my next one I make it will be a little cleaner.
I actually have a Stanley hand planet. I will just have to utilize it more next time and work on getting straighter surfaces.
It does have a Japanese influence. My house is an arts and crafts house that has a ton of Japanese accents. I based my design on related pic. And just added the lap joints and a few other changes. I am going to make a few more, which hopefully will be better than this one. I’m thinking about making them a little smaller too. Previous owner of my house did the basement with a very 80s design that doesn’t match the rest of the house. So I’m going to replace the light fixtures and all that.

>>1804337
Arts and Crafts house, with an 80's basement. Sounds like previous owner was searching for identity. I would love to have an arts and crafts or a colonial. Currently stuck in a midwest stucco, mexican influenced home, that is common in the southwest.

Stanely hand plane that is considered a "smoother" has a tight throat, super sharp. Often leaves a glass smooth surface when going with the grain. I almost never have to sand unless grain reacted with the BLO.

I make viking chairs and sell them for about 8 dollars of profit on weekends/ garden sales. I can see your lamp selling.

viking chair:
https://youtu.be/R1mTGHzDfB0

>>1804109
Different anon here. I coincidentally was tuning up some spoke shaves last night couldn't agree more. Round bottoms offer nothing that a flat does other than a tighter radius and even I'd rather use a rasp/sand. Pic is a cigar spoke shave with an round, bevel up rotating iron.

>>1804424
Yeah the original owner/guy who had the house built loved architecture and also love Japanese art. So he had the house built in the arts and crafts style and added in Japanese influence. The house is pretty consistent and sticks to that style. When they redid the basement in the 80s though he let his wife decorate it since he designed the rest of the house. The basement was her space to do what she wanted since he designed and oversaw the construction of the rest of the house.
I see. Looks like I need to invest in one of those planes. Any suggestions?
Those chairs are pretty cool man. What kind of wood are you using?

>>1785898
Kek imagine caring what the atf thinks lmao

>>1793399
Nice opinion you got there faggot

>>1803270
Look at this badass

>>1804286
> They're Stanley so they are since they're made of chinese chrome-vanadium
Sorby, Marples, Zenith and the chisels I crafted with my own hands are all made by Stanley? You learn something new everyday. Did not know Stanley was using chisese production all that way back into the 20s and 30s either, think I am going to have to do some studying!

>>1804459
The No.1 offers a great deal beyond a tighter radius to flat soles, it is an amazing shave for rough work, you get it set right and it works like a mini drawknife, it is my go too shave for all rough work now. Otherwise I agree 100%

So I ditched my old cheap Ryobi bench top router and upgraded to a Rockler router table with a stand, wheels, etc. that is a lot more versatile for my small garage that I work in.

Anyways, I'm amateur at best in terms of woodworking, but one thing I liked about my Ryobi table was that it had a measuring apparatus on the table itself so that if I needed to I could set the fence to 0 to make sure the cuts I made when using a miter bit, ir any other bit where I needed the center of the bit to be aligned with the fence perfect. My rockler table for some reason doesn't have anything like that for setting the fence, possibly because people use different plates with these tables that have different centers to each plate.

So, how would I go about setting up a perfectly center ruler either with some tape or whatever so I can properly set the fence? I don't even know how I would go about measuring the exact center using my router in the first place.

>>1804568
Some kind of stop block that rides the miter slot to set the fence to 0.

>>1804568
Just eye it, run an offcut through to test, adjust. This has the benefit of letting you know how the wood is going to take to the bit, if and where it will chip or tear out. It is always wise to run a test so just use the setup time to do that, after a few dozen times you will be able to set it faster without a guide than with which will help greatly for all of those times you need to set it to different depths.

>>1803913
I have yet to hear Sellers contradict himself, and it's interesting that Lee Valley says that chisel has great impact resistance, and is perfect for waste removal, just like Paul uses it. Also, Highlands sells his other things right along, bragging about how he recommends the hammer in particular.
So are you always full of shit, or only when you're posting here?

>>1804826
Why are you so defensive about Paul? Why do you care if I dislike and disagree with him?

Also, impact is not prying. Impact resistance refers too chopping, such as removing the waste from dovetails, no prying there.

Why is the general consensus that butcher block kitchen countertops are a bad idea?

I get that water + wood = bad, but there must be some method of finishing them that makes them durable or waterproof, right?

>>1804874
They fall into the catagory of high maintenance. Perfectly fine if you are the sort that does not mind spending an after noon to give your counter tops its yearly coat of oil.

New thread, old picture. OP got lazy.

>>1804886

>>1804887
Let us try that again. New Thread!

>>1804889

>>1804564
>Sorby, Marples, Zenith and the chisels I crafted with my own hands are all made by Stanley?
lol so now you're going to pretend you didn't post pictures of reproduction and post 1990 Stanley chisels?
lmao wew okay you're one of those kind of people.

>>1793424
>Lost Art Press books
They are a bit of treasure aren't they?