/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First for 3D printed girls

>>1800691
THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS

>>1800693
>thinning paints

[spoiler]I just never hit the sweet spot with these paints..it's either too thick or too runny and thin

Post your quarantine boogaloo prep projects

It's illegal to print guns (or even possess the files) in Australia but a Cerebral Bore wouldn't fall under that, right?

>>1800637
Yeah, you're bound to get HUGE cost savings on tabletop stuff, particularly if you or your opponents don't mind some layer lines and if your LGS doesn't throw a shit fit

>have to recalibrate the bed level again for the 40th time
I need a fucking bltouch

>>1800719
>ezABL and alu spacers (different store) on the way
I'm a lazy piece of shit.

>>1800705
>if your LGS doesn't throw a shit fit
Protip: model your own personalised embellishments, or even design your own entire models in the case of minis (or at least custom insignia/livery, armour or weaponry, or re-pose them, or add extra arms and heads to your completely normal not-mutant marine faction) that you can be proud of and your LGS can't say shit because it's no different to using Green Stuff.

I dunno why you ever wouldn't do this, though... I've never understood people who don't invest days of autism on every single miniature.

I finally ended up fixing this Chinese piece of shit machine after 4 months. Wasn't going to buy the screen the company was selling, as they're charging 80 dollars each, so I bought a glass protector and a LCD panel and made one. The fucking glass was too big, so I had to mill out the pocket with a plunge router. Some of the sides have practically to edge to balance on so I ended up cutting deeper than I needed to, but there ledges that are higher are all the same height, so those gouges don't matter. I'm going to put this shit machine back together tomorrow morning and do a test print. Hopefully it fucking works.

>>1800722
Now you get to 3d print a faceplate to hide all that.

Everybody will be very envious (that you have an actual reason to print something)

>>1800727
Nah. Gonna sell masks to normies. Also, gonna make a wood burning stamp for a coworker by using a resun model and burning it out in plaster.

>>1800730
>Gonna sell masks to normies.
Is this worthwhile?
I'm busy with school for the next week so my printer will be mostly sitting idle, but I figured the people talking about this must've already had printer farms otherwise the volume would suck.

>>1800720
>alu spacers
I just used folded alu foil.
Fucking 1mm deep hole in the middle of the plate, but that's what I get for buying a CR I guess.

>now it's just Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3

>>1800744
rolled alumimum will always form a bowl or hill in the center after some hours.
if you want flat you need a cast ground plate

>>1800722

What sort of Chinese piece of shit machine was this originally? I haven't seen many SLA printers with this type of format.

>>1800654
The Anycubic i3 Mega S at 269 $ should be included, imho.

Are the Trianglelab e3d clones pretty good?

Anyone heard of the Kelant S400S?
Resin printer with 192*120*200MM build volume for under $800

>>1800822
>has anyone ever heard of
>insert random company that will be out of business in 2 years because this is a saturated market that is cutthroat and undercuts the original manufacturers every time

>>1800824
innocent question bitch

>>1800826
Its an honest answer bitch
Nobody drops $800 on rando chink shit when there are known things out there, so any answer you get will be shills pushing their own product. Is that you?

>>1800730
People printing masks and faceshields are honestly the most cringy fuckers out there. It really shows how many people don't have anything usefull to do with their printer. Good idea of you to sell them to normies, I hope it works out. I bet they'll suck your dick over how amazing your efforts are.

Honestly one plastic molding machine can outperform a hundred printers. Printers aren't made for mass production, but here we are wasting time and electricity for some fake piece of mind safety faceshields.

>>1800697
Have you considered not using poster paints?

Found an old video of mine, back when I got my SLA printer up and running
Check it out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llIc79P3YIE

>>1800809
>prusa i3 copy #34534521
The list should have them split up by build sizes, and then by costs.

That has me wondering, how much would a straight clone of the mk3s cost? If you were to only purchase the frame, heated bed, and spring steel bed and got the other parts from different sources how much would it cost?

>>1800858
>prusa i3 copy
which feature/s make it an "i3 copy"?

>>1800691
that sword doesnt feel so good

>>1800859
The whole printer itself?
Maybe you havent been here long enough to realize, printers used to be unique and vastly different before china started pumping out i3 clones and flooded the market with them.

>>1800858
Trianglelabs sells a straight Prusa i3 MK3S clone for around 500$.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963493248.html

Doesn't include the Rambo board which costs around 150$, so it would be 650$ for the full kit. So only 100$ less compared to the official Prusa kit.

>>1800865
>The whole printer itself?
so the XZ-Head Y-Bed layout?
That was around before the first occurance of the I3 though. Its called Mendel and is what Josef based his first printer on.

>>1800867
It seems to use a genuine bondtech extruder, based on the way they censor the name. I wonder if they actually bought parts like the frame from prusa or made it themselves. Has some issues watching the video by ruiraptor.

>250aud shipping to aus
Holy shit. You'd be better off going on taobao, sending it to a forwarder and shipping it via a cheaper method.

>>1800868
>so the XZ-Head Y-Bed layout?
You mean a cartesian kinematics style printer?
Nah, thats not why its an i3 clone.

Its an I3 clone because its utilizing all the cost cutting measures that Prusa added into his I3 printer, namely the cheaper more minimal frame designs.
Its a stupid design quite frankly, but it works great if you are looking for cheap. Also it fucking says I3 in the name.

>>1800836
Wait, are you Rylan? Did you ever get the money back from David?

>>1800879
>Did you ever get the money back from David?
They were both in on it together. They realized the printer sucked and wasnt going to go over well. So they took the money and ran.

>>1800876
>You mean a cartesian kinematics style printer?
XZ-Head Y-Bed is cartesian but not all cartesian layouts are XZ-Head Y-Bed.
>cheaper more minimal frame designs
Like the Single Sheet Frame? Most "i3 copys" I see around use an aluminium extrusion frame which has been around before the first i3 aswell. Pic related dates back to 2010. The i3 came up in 2012.
>Also it fucking says I3 in the name
Wow chinks name things the way that gets them the most sales collor me suprised.
>>1800865
>Maybe you havent been here long enough
No U

>>1800867
>buying a chinkshit printer for only $50 cheaper than the genuine one
i wonder if there is actually someone dumb enough to do that

>>1800822
>random chinese fly-by-nite company comes out with some cheap printer
>anon sees cheap printer
>Anyone heard of cheap printer? Give me the rundown

Someone has to bite the bullet and buy these things first, you know... You can't expect to see in-depth reviews for every new thing that comes out.

>>1800899
>chinkshit
>UShit
wheres the difference ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

>>1800908
Prusa is Czechshit

Aye. But I didn't want to spend too much on a printer and I didn't think I would be using it this much or that I would ever want more precision. But here we are, metal ruler and a piece of paper in hand.

How do I escape belts completely without having to sell my car?

>>1800923
diy

>>1800923
Accept our lord and savior fishing line.

>>1800923
Wear suspenders instead.

>>1800923
What's stopping you from taking a cheap i3 clone and replacing the X axis belt with a leadscrew?

>>1800828
You're right, but if people are buying this stuff I don't blame anon for taking advantage of the opportunity. Who knows when the next deadly pandemic will be, enjoy it while you can

>why.jpg

>>1800974
dude those 70C are really DANGEROUS

>>1800923
arms

>>1800950
no one stops him but leadsrews in this application are a straight downgrade
>more inertia
>more slop
>louder
>dust ingress
>>1800976
my bed goes >120°, wouldnt want to touch that
>>1800978
>cnc 3d pen

>>1800976
Not the point.
WHY IS THERE A SPACE BEFORE THE FIRST EXCLAMATION MARK AND NOT THE OTHERS

>>1800981
>unttended
I dont think the chinks care about spaces

>>1800983
I care, and now I have to spend 5 times as much on brand name stickers just because some chink can't type.

>>1800984
That isnt even the worst the chinks do though
I bought a mechanical keyboard from chinaland and the fuckers misspelled their own brand name

>>1800983
They really don't, and I don't fucking understand it at all. I've helped Chinese friends translate business documents, review resumes, etc. It's always a horrific mishmash of font sizes, random white space, the same word misspelled four different ways, and literally nothing aligning properly.

This is consistently, always true. A genuine mystery.

>>1800988
Complete blind guess here but could it possibly have something to do with the chinese writing system? They seem to barely have punctuation, and spacing is questionable as well. Plus they don't really exactly have many different "fonts" as far as I'm aware, simply because, first of all, only so many font designers are willing to create thousands of characters, and secondly (and perhaps most importantly) because there's a very limited amount of "styling" you can do while keeping all characters recognisable - you can't curve straight lines or straighten curved lines, you can't really bend anything, you can't add serifs, etc. etc.
So as a result maybe they don't really have a concept of caring about styles and sizes. If it's recognisable as the right letter, it's good.

>>1800828
Why are you so fucking salty? Did you buy a printer for yourself and fuck it up, or do you just have creator's block?

>>1801011
>They seem to barely have punctuation, and spacing is questionable as well.
That's true enough.

>Plus they don't really exactly have many different "fonts" as far as I'm aware, simply because, first of all, only so many font designers are willing to create thousands of characters, and secondly (and perhaps most importantly) because there's a very limited amount of "styling" you can do while keeping all characters recognisable - you can't curve straight lines or straighten curved lines, you can't really bend anything, you can't add serifs, etc. etc.
All this is total bullshit, though. They have plenty of fonts and character calligraphy is kind of a big deal; you can arguably go drastically more stylised than you can with our alphabet (in terms of good taste). Serifs are an enormous part of stroke order legibility so you're clearly not very informed on this subject.

I think it has more to do with:
- No culture of English pedantry
- Poor Chinese and multi-language support in older word processors and operating systems for a long time making it kind of impossible to get things looking cohesive
- Foreign businesses maybe not really giving a shit about the Chinese versions of documents so they possibly got the short end of seeing what formal formatting should look like in the first place

I can guess about historical reasons, but I still find it baffling that nobody gives a fuck even today.

>>1801064
Huh, interesting. I did say it was a complete blind guess, I never would've thought optional serifs would work well for example.

I have a wanhao duplicator i3 from like 5 years ago. Its been serving me well but if I wanted to get better prints that just werk should I get a prusa mini or would tuning up my print get me the same results.

>>1800980
>CNC 3D pen
Surprisingly viable, if slow.

>part overhangs the buildplate
YEA BOYS WE DOIN IT

>>1801083
good prints are 95% tune up and 5% machine, considering the mechanics are in good shape but

>>1801147
Who actually uses that enough to be able to tell that it's viable? Is that a genuine manufacturing technique?
I'm assuming it would be based on cooling the filament fast enough to be able to actually build stuff just hanging in the air, as otherwise it sounds extremely non-useful

>>1801025
>creator's block
If I had creator's block and I had nothing to print because of it I'd be printing facemasks, retard. That's my fucking point.

>>1801150
wtf is that fan cover? why tho?

>Shitty PLA from Makergeeks(remember them?) I got like 2 years ago ripping up and not sticking to bed
>Get pissed and just crank the temp up to 260C
>Prints fine

Okay.

>>1801221
if it sticks with higher temperature your first layer flow is too low
i generally run between 100-110%, see where it sticks and reduce till no elephant food left
>>1801211
>wtf is that fan cover?
so

>>1801223
didn't mean to post yet
so my dirty dickbeaters dont accidentally knock a blade off

>>1800654
A buddy who started his own Buisness got talked into buying an ultimaker 3 by a sales rep. I think he paid like 3300 bucks for it. Is there any real benifit that would justify that cost?

>used up all the sample filament and have wait for new one to arrive
you guys dont know pain

>>1801226
it just werks + top tier support

>>1801170
Oh, no, not in midair, on existing surfaces and structures. Filament does cool pretty quickly, though, so I could see it being adapted for hanging structures, though the usefulness of that is questionable

>>1801245
>decide to try a project
>start printing
>realise I will need screws and I have none that will work
>order from chinks because am jew
>have to wait a month
it's the /waiting/ life

Best direct drive extruder for E3?

>>1801226
>I think he paid like 3300 bucks for it.
>Is there any real benefit that would justify that cost?
Not unless it's in a shared-use enviornment where retards will be screwing it up regularly. That's Ultimaker's entire customer base (primarily schools).
I understand the appeal of pre-built printers. But not in that instance. Ultimakers are really overpriced given their age and feature set. And I'm not unfamiliar with expensive printers either.
In the $3k to $5k price range you can get a Craftbot Flow (single extruder or IDEX) or at the top-end a BNC Sigmax R19 which is also IDEX. They both have an enormous build area. My employer ended up buying the Sigmax because it had a complete enclosure kit option, which was important since the primary material we intended to print was ABS with HIPs supports.

>>1801245
Damn how would we predict that impending torment.

I'm still on my two pack-in mini spools yet somehow I have a box of eight spools from two different suppliers under the desk, how could that have happened

>>1800978
Here is the future boys. The ability to print without the weakness of layer lines and greater ability to print overhangs without support.

How the fuck do I make money with a 3d printer

>>1801398
By printing shit people want and selling it on Etsy. If you can't think of something to sell you're already up shit creek.

>>1801150
this image raises so many questions

>why is your bed XY not properly zeroed
>why is there a spirit level standing on the bed during a live print
>why do you run such a fucking heavy ass fan shroud, this will introduces some ringing in fast prints
>what is this bed material? looks like an isolator

>>1801221
>260°C PLA
wtf are you doing? Does it at lesst smell like popcorn?

more likely to be a problem with the bed, not the material

>>1800974
Chinese typing double spaces western punctuation like that.

Hey, can you guys help me? I printed the dog that came on my ender 3, left stock fan setup and right with the bullseye I keep getting those wierd lines in both. the bullseye almost fixed but what can I do to make it more smooth??
200°C pla fan speed 100%, if I reduce the fan speed on the bullseye to 80% it fixes some deep seams. But still not perfect

Dumb question, but what the fuck do you guys do when there's a tiny amount of filament left on a spool? Do you wait until you need enough small, half an hour or less prints to where you can come up close to the actual end, or do you just say fuck it and throw it away?

>>1800858
>>prusa i3 copy #34534521
At least it has rods, that's conducive to upgrades etc.

>>1801486
thats prettty good and it woun't get any better than that on an ender. Ot looks perticularly bad on that pic because of white filament and light from the top.
If you want figurine detail, a resin printer is the machine for you.

>>1801491
I unspool it and put it on the shelf without the spool. When theres not much left you don't need the spool to print it.

>>1801462
fine ill spoonfeed you
>why is your bed XY not properly zeroed
the print is 234mm large. Stock you cannot even print more than 220mm
apparently the ender X endstop is not exactly right and you have some play in the Y carriage
>why do you run such a fucking heavy ass fan shroud, this will introduces some ringing in fast prints
the shroud no joke weighs less than the OG ender steel sheet one but solves most of its problems.
Weight wise, on a stock ender you will not run into problems until your X carriage is as heavy as the bed (0.5kg) or more with glass as x/y speed settings should be equal
>what is this bed material? looks like an isolator
its sanded FR2/Pertinax the best and cheapest build surface one can use
OH MY that bottom side is mirror like slik
>>1801486
too much plastic getting squeezed out
pic rel. halfass tuned extrusion .2 mm LH all layers even

>>1801379
There is nothing new about a multi-axis CNC.

But the problem is the toolpath generation.
The nice thing about FDM is that you can just take a random model and put in a slicer. But slicing is inherently 3-axis: You take 2d slices along a single third axis.
With more axes you enter into CAM territory where things stop being so simple.

>>1801486
Your extruder gear is probably eccentric
should have bought a prusa

>>1801486
Try upgrade your firmware using TH3D. I had some problems with an inconsistent extrusion pattern, upgrading to th3d more or less fixed it.
>>1801503
>trying to show off how nice your print looks with the sparkly grey filament
That shit is cheating and you know it.

>>1801518
i didnt scale down so you can see the layerlines
yet you still complain, jesus

>>1801519
I'm just saying with that filament it creates some sort of optical illusion, and they always look super nice.

Looking to get myself a printer, how much should i trust get the cheap Chinese kits from the likes of banggood or wish?

>>1801546
Wish is shit. Banggood is usually fine but Ali/ebay provide better protection.

>>1801546
Don't buy from wish, banggood has great customer service, aliexpress has okay customer support but cheaper prices, gearbest has the worst customer support.
banggood if you think there's any chance it'll show up broken and you'll want a refund
ali if you want the best prices

pew pew

>>1801561
Cute, how does it work?

>>1801567
The plunger has an elastic cord coming out the back of it, which wraps around a pulley at the front, then connects to the shoulder strap through that middle print. So you loop the shoulder strap around your back like a sling and push the blaster away from yourself to prime the plunger.
That action also actuates the breech. So when the elastic pulls the shoulder strap forwards it loads a dart into the barrel at the same time.

>>1801561
Nice one.

>>1801546
Should have bought a prusa

>>1801245
>used up my sample
>2 years later, still haven't used my printer again
It's true. I'm not a very good person.

>>1801587
>MP5
Ah, a man of culture.
Is that handguard your model?
Also is it held by a single locking pin?

>>1801646
>Ah, a man of culture.
I do love it but please ease on the praise, it's just an airsoft replica.
>Is that handguard your model?
No, I found it thingiverse. "TM MP5SD kit" or something similar.
I did model in a new locking system though. It locks into the same hole that holds another pin (pic related. Part No. 1). PLA does have some flex on a big enough scale so I made use of that.

>>1800828
>REEEEEE STOP DOING THINGS
I'm gonna make another 100 just because it makes you asshurt

>>1800808
It's technically a DLP printer called the Kelant S400. Don't buy it, it's cheap Chinese Garbage. Get a Moai instead.

>>1801692
I've been making a respirator to learn CAD. It's actually been a fantastic exercise and I'm learning a shitload.

>>1801204
You didn't answer my question. Why are you so salty?

So what does the future of fdm look like?
CoreXY? Delta?
Or some crazy bullshit like scara or polar?

>>1801744
A dense array of individually controllable micro nozzles (like an inkjet printer) as the tool head.

>>1801744
Crazy bullshit has a small market share. Delta is crazy bullshit, with a wierdly shaped buildspace.

The future of FDM is moving towards a black box system: users throws in STL, print comes out, no fuss involved. That means a properly insulated box with an XYZ-style of kinematics. Y-bed XZ-head (Prusa, Ender) will stay popular because it's simple, but coreXY will slowly surpass it. There's currently no kinematics system that has significant advantages over coreXY without more significant complications.

>>1800828
>ne plastic molding machine can outperform a hundred printers
Well no shit sherlock. But that equipment not surprisingly costs as much ore more than one hundred printers. And requires tooling that adds another $10k or more depending on the cassette size.
The cheap benchtop injection-molding machines can't handle any more than 1 cubic inch of mold volume and cost $4k easy.

>>1801752
>Y-bed
Absolute crap. Z-bed is superior

>>1801752
Deltas should be more popular than they are really
The only flaws it has are the circular build plate and the initial calibration being a pain in the ass.

>>1801245
just go buy more, its not really hard to find

>>1801486
>200°C pla
moar heat

>>1801773
It's strange that you can get cheaper i3 clones than Kossel clones. With a delta you can get away with making everything V-slot on belts and using the weakest steppers you can find.

>>1801491
I've got a filament sensor so I usually don't have less than about 0.25m of filament left. In the case that I do (like, if I want something to be the same color and don't want to switch mid-print), I just the leftover filament for bed leveling, scraping off the nozzle (plastic sticks to itself pretty well), or for checking alignment of all my gears and tubes.

>>1801561
What is that, pump action?

>>1801824
You push forward to prime. It's an updated version of this older design.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWWi51oZTdo

>>1800828
yes we just need factory workers to handle the packaging and shipping of the product
oh wait theyre stuck at home

>>1801486
Try tightening your belts.

Anyone here having a tutorial on how to cut models up and then add pins + holes to the parts?
I mean exactly overlapping pins and holes, I get how to cut stuff, but it feels like Im kinda missing something when it comes to pins.

>>1801888
I've heard LuBan can do it but the interface is so confusing that I don't know how.

>>1801888
>Anyone here having a tutorial on how to cut models up and then add pins + holes to the parts?
Just split it along a plane, hide the first half, add pins to the first half with join, unhide the second, and combine-cut.

3D printed piccolo trombone. It works, sort of. I'm new at playing the trombone. The model is very fragile around the bell connector or whatever it is called, and I need to sand the remaining supports off.

>>1801888
what program are you using?

Probably a loaded question, and don't even know if it's the right board for it, but does anyone here have experience making their own fleshlight/onahole molds? In theory, is doesn't sound too tough to design your own and just buy skin-safe silicone to cast.

>have 3d printer
>running out of things l want to print

>>1801990
>have a 3d printer
>everything i want to print takes a day and a half
>printer is too loud to let it run overnight

>>1801985
Search the archives if you want more info since this comes up every so often but tl;dr
>make a test piece before you blow $50 on a failed cast
>smooth the fuck out of the mold, then smooth it some more
technically it's pretty simple

>>1801990
>have 3d printer
>never running out of things l want to print

>>1802017
Sounds logical enough to me. Might give it a try sometime. Thank you.

>>1802017
Not that anon, but incidentally, what's a good way to smooth stuff, aside from printing ABS? Is there a better way than lots and lots of sandpaper and patience?
Two vague ideas I had would be to use something hot, like a soldering iron/pyrography tool on low temp (~100*C maybe) and a flat or smooth tip - but I have no idea whether it's even viable to smooth things neatly or whether it would just make a mess; or going through a multistep process casting something like wax from the printed mold, and then touching up the wax by hand to smooth it (and potentially adjust the model if needed or even detail it or fix print imperfections) before making another negative in some other material (whether it be more silicon, or clay, or something). Are either of these methods actually known to be practical in practice?

>>1802033
The only experience I've had with PLA is covering with Perfect Plastic Putty and sanding and priming, multiple times if needed. Never stops being a huge pain in the ass.

>>1801993
What model?
I sleep just fine while my Ender 3 is printing. It's kind of like a white noise machine.
Have you tried putting your printer on top of a stone block to dampen the noise?

>>1802033
Smoothing with heat is a PITA. Print/recast/smooth might be viable but adds extra steps, but I think might be used.

>>1800697
What brand of paints are you using? If you're using craft store paint you'll need to build up thin layers very slowly, they get to have a lot of filler medium and not a ton of pigment

>annoyed the cr10 v2 plate changed significantly from the cr10
>just realised I can print it out while waiting for an alu one
I have some doubts about whether PLA can hold the tension of the belt, but lets see how it goes

>>1802033
I tried cleaning up some support remnants with a soldering iron yesterday and it was a clusterfuck. The heat penetrates deeply and softens everything: details don't disappear but instead the whole surface moves when you apply pressure. I tried more heat (right up until to point of browning the white PLA I was using) and it didn't improve things.
So although it did work for dislodging a stubborn support before I got too ambitious, I wouldn't recommend that approach for smoothing; you'll probably just distort your print. But interestingly the way it softens and stays soft for several seconds without moving or losing detail by itself could hypothetically be used to fix a small distortion or change a pose slightly or something, maybe.

The heat vent/gun attachment for my iron does appear to own for evaporating spiderwebs though.

>>1802161
Note: this was a very small and highly detailed part though. Maybe with large thick surfaces it could be safer if you know what you're doing?

Is there a printer that's 16"x16"x20" or smaller that's quiet in the $500 range that a beginner shouldn't have too much issues with? No particular use in mind besides learning and general use.

I upgraded the firmware to the th3d, and I have a new extruder coming. Printed this Pikachu yesterday with the default cura ender 3 profile. Looks like shit. I'll do an heat tower today. Feels bad

>>1802177
Hmm, interesting. Have you tightened your belts and calibrated your e-steps? One thing I can also recommend is a stringing test (gap between two poles). Choose one with cylinders, not pyrimads. That can help to tell if the extruder gear is elliptical, along with some extrusion tests.

>>1802180
Yes the belts are tightened, no I didn't calibrated the e-steps I'll Google that. Today I'll do a stringing and heat tower. I'll post results thanks

>>1800654
question: I have a UV-C lamp for sterilizing objects and I was wondering if it could be used for curing resin models.
Which wavelength of UV rays should be used in photocuring?

>shipping to kangaroo land via courier for ~5kg from poland is 95eur.
Welp, was fine seeing cheap prices. Now to try get in contact with the aus seller who hasn't replied to my emails.
>>1802220
It will depend on the resin, should say in the specs.

>>1801983
Mechmixer, so far, because up until now, that was enough.

>>1801911
Will try it.

>>1800809
I agree.
The Anycubic is by far the most reliable low-cost printer.
All of the 3DP groups I'm in on Fb have been flooded (before the quaranteen too) by Creality users having issues with their printers and the only times I see Anycubic issues is in Anycubic i3 groups.

I have one myself (1st gen w/ Ultrabase) and it worked (almost) out of the box.
>unpack
>assemble 2 parts
>level
>print
haven't had to readjust anything since 2018 and I tested an all-in-one torture test just 2 days ago and everything is spot on.

I use Uncle Jessy's FFF profile with S3D.

>>1800828
>My mask protects you.
>Your mask protects me.
Lex Fridman JRE#1455

>>1802177
>cura
pirate S3D I shit you not I never touched Cancerua ever again.

>>1802232
Can you go over what makes s3d so good? Does it have tree supports?

>>1802234
Another anon here. I prefer Slic3r but long ago I bought s3d. Make sure you don't buy s3d. If you buy it you actually end up with a worse software than when you pirate it. Thats because s3d will randomly demand an internet connection to check with its authentication servers and if you don't have a connection when it wants one you are out of luck and it won't run.

>>1802268
What are the main pirate sites for software nowadays? I haven't kept track in years.

>>1802268
I checked out slic3r but haven't switched from cura yet. Does it do a nozzle wipe as well? I didn't see any option for it.

>>1802271
>Does it do a nozzle wipe as well?
Its under Printer settings

>>1802269
I wouldn't know, I'm the idiot who bought it.

https://youtu.be/ItAonH9IVy0
Pretty darn slick

>>1802276
I guess that's one advantage z-bed has for minimal cost (one extra z-axis, where a y-bed would need an entirely new whole set of z-steppers to enable this).

>>1802275
Oh, I thought this was about doing like a coasting type wipe on the model on every extruder extraction. Does this also enable the initial nozzle wipe on print start/resume/filament change?

>cant order a zesty nimble because of gay sickness
lame

>>1802275
Just checked it out, all it does is you swap out a .dll file, which you do manually. Go DL it, and put the included .dll file into your install directory.

>>1802278
>one extra z-axis
that is two.

>>1802279
I did that manually in my start G-code. I don't think there is something prebuilt for this in Slic3r.

>>1802275
I take it the settings page has changed from 4.0 to 4.1? Can't find that exact page, or the retract at layer change setting.
Also, why does S3D have the default nozzle to be 0.4mm, extrusion multiplier of 90%, and an extrusion width greater than the nozzle diameter automatically calculated?

>>1802312
>4.0 to 4.1
Are you talking about S3d?
This is Slic3r 1.3.0

Redpill me on hotends. The way I understand it, the ender 3 (pro) doesn't come with an all-metal by default, right? Is it worth upgrading, or is that mostly a meme? What if I want to print PETG?
Also redpill me on extruders. Is an aluminium one really worth it over the ender's plastic one? Also, if I've not had any obvious issues with over or under extrusion, is it worth recalibrating it for "good practice" just to see if it can be made a tiny bit more accurate, or is that unlikely to yield visible improvement?

>>1802319
Ahh ok. You said you were the one who bought s3d, so I just assumed that was it as well. My bad. Didn't read other posts, my bad.

>>1801993
put it in a different room, close the door

>>1802320
>wanna print petg
Get some capricron tubing before replacing your hotend for petg. Either replace the whole ptfe with capricorn, or do the capricorn tubing hotend mod by CHEP. Worth calibrating for good practice.

>>1802312
auto is 20% bigger than nozzle size = 20% less fill lines per layer = faster print but ugly depending on nozzle luck

90% unironically cause pla doesnt need 100 due to next to no material shrinkage, less visible layer lines and better dimensional accuracy
Ever wondered why people claim S3D prints nicer than cura? its all in the default settings...

>>1802326
Interesting! I'll change multiplier back to 0.9, but change the nozzle widths and such for the moment.
Is there a way to adjust extrusion flow just for skin surfaces? Gaps in skin are probably the thing that pisses me off the most.

>>1802327
i dont use s3d, so dont know exactly what the "subsettings" are called there in cura generally settings are skin and infill is separate
just a warning, dont lower 1st layer extrusion multiplier too.
if you have gaps that means your nozzle cant really handle the With you sliced with, lowering Extrusion With compensates this but you'd have to do a couple testprints until you found a setting that works good for the nozzle (i generally run .34-32 with chink nozzle)

>>1802325
Nice, thanks. Is it imperative to at least get better tubing, or is that for when I start noticing issues with the stock ptfe degrading?

>>1802334
ptfe tubing will degrade at the higher temps required for printing petg/abs, it will give off off some amount of poisonous fumes when it degrades

>>1802336
based

>>1802334
Capricorn can handle up to 260-270 before it starts to go. So if you wanna start doing PC (maybe nylon, can't remember) you'll be fine. You'll have enough info about the hobby by that point anyway, as they require enclosures to print.

>>1802336
>ptfe tubing will degrade at the higher temps required for printing petg/abs
I call BS. PTFE lined hotends were the norm back when ABS was the only filament option. It only degrades past 240°C.

I've got a big bitch of a bed and it's garbage for adhesion.
Is there a cheaper alternative to PEI that I can stick to it? I'd need about 400mm x 400mm.

>>1802385
Have you tried a gluestick?

>>1802385
pertinax sanded with 140 grid

>>1802387
Yeah it does the job but if I can avoid using it I will.

>>1802389
Thanks, sounds good.

I'm in the process of setting up some lights on my Anycubic i3 Mega. It would be pretty convenient for me to run the cable to the power supply through the SD card slot, since I never use that. Does anyone know if removing the reader would cause issues with the printer booting or whatever?
I can't find anything on Google and it's in the middle of a long print right now, so I can't just remove it to check.

Hi I have an ender 3 and I want a bltouch can I buy any version or just is it just compatible with v2 bl?

Does anyone here have any experience with the FlashForge Creator Pro? I'm strongly considering getting a closed dual extruder printer and the price makes this one very lucrative. Or are there any better alternatives? Preferably below $1000

>>1802450
Holy fuck DO NOT BUY THAT MACHINE. It is a NIGHTMARE.

>shitty back-mounted filament system means you need to be a gibbon to swap rolls in the blind or have the back exposed
>Hotend is nonstandard, good luck swapping it out
>wiring is a fucking pain in case you need to do repairs
>SD card slot arbitrarily stops working sometimes
>button interface sucks
>handles suck ass
>bed leveling is somehow shit, despite being three-point
>all four machines I've worked with squeak like a motherfucker
>two models have had the control board burn out
>the heated bed almost CAUGHT FIRE when printing PLA
>weird-ass front plate and top cover design means that with a close door and top cover installed it creates perfect conditions to suck cold air through the front and all over your print
>Chinese manual and support, small community, good luck getting help

Please, I beg you, get something else and save yourself the sanity.

>price makes this very lucrative
This thing is $800. Surely there's other DEX setups for that amount of money?

>>1802450
There are way better replicator clones than that brand. Even the Qidi brand ones have a touchscreen and a Meanwell power supply. But it looks like all the DEX ones are way out of date. The only one that has been updated is the Monoprice one and a "Bibo" brand one, both of which now have a touch screen and other features added.
https://smile.amazon.com/BIBO-Extruder-Engraving-Printing-removable/dp/B01LNADH8M/
>>1802459
>Surely there's other DEX setups for that amount of money?
There actually aren't very many in that price range.

alright. so my glass bed was having adhesion issues and cura was putting the xy origin off by like -10,-20. so I reinstalled Cura, wiped my preferences, rebuilt the important parts from memory and tried to leave it otherwise stock medium quality. I also switched to the stock bed and releveled.

the origin is now centered on the X axis, but a bit closer to the front of the plate, maybe 10mm. should I just increase the Y axis size by 20mm?

adhesion seemed good, but the plate seemed to hitter when switching direction in the Y plane. is that just a loose belt?

finally, there's a bit of stringing, is that just increasing retraction speed? it's set to 6mm & 30mm/s.

I would eventually like to ramp up my print speed as high as possible while keeping dimensional accuracy and minimum stringing (some is ok, I have sandpaper). what else should I be looking into?

thanks /3dpdg/

>>1802432
I don't think it should be an issue.
but if it is, just install Marlin (version 1 or 2 depends on whether you have an 8 or 32 bit processor).

I wish l could buy filament at the fucking grocery store.

>>1802450
Prusa mk3s with multi material upgrade

>>1802586
are you in US? if yes, try joann fabric

>>1801993
That's me except I'm afraid that I'll burn the house down if I leave it unattended. I'm tempted to build a fireproof enclosure to stuff it in.

holy shit slic3r/prusaslicer is so much better than cura in terms of UI, UX, having decent options and good option organisation, and being sane
even tiny things like the fact that if you have multiple models on a plate sliced, if you remove one, the others keep their slicing while cura just says "nope gotta reslice", and if you move a model around, it takes a second to move the slicing as well which is much quicker than reslicing from scratch
plus the color coding is super neat

only thing is it doesn't seem to be able to open and parse gcode files

>>1802673
Yep, it's pretty handy.
>open and parse gcode
The few times I've needed to do that I use either gcode.ws or ncviewer com , pretty barebones but suits my needs

>>1802450
>>1802459
Have to agree for the most part. I'm converting a FlashForge Dreamer clone to run on a SKR 1.3. Need to switch from thermocouples to thermistors, so I have to change out the heatblocks cause they use M4 and everyone else uses M3. Also the stepper drivers they use have the pins facing the opposite way. Not sure if that's common or not.

What am I doing wrong?

PLA comes out fine (when I print it at 200, just like it says to on the box). Picrelated is PETG. It comes out as a bunch of separate strands barely connected at the corners. Temp is 230 just like it says to use on the box. Inland magenta if it matters. What other information would be useful for me to mention?

>>1802712
Heh, I'm just trying to print PETG for the first time as well. First print layer bonding was terrible, it just split apart into a bunch of macaroni in my hands.
Box says 230-250 temp, I was doing 240. Bumped it up to 250 and next print was a fucking unit: it's about 20 bottom layers of a benchy (my next problem is bed adhesion/warping), so around 5-5.4 mm high somewhere, and it took me significant effort to bend it and when I did the layers still didn't split (the gyroid infill split off from the (3-thick) walls near the thick front of the benchy, and it bent that way, walls buckling outwards).
So try bumping the temp up.

>>1802712
If I were you I'd experiment with increasing the temperature, slowing down the print speed, reducing your cooling fan speed, and using thinner layers.

Do I need to put something between the hot bed and glass mirror?

First PETG print done. They weren't kidding when they said it strings and blobs. It's not even so much the stringing between tall parts, as it is the fact that random strings will accumulate while printing, until they become massive enough to have inertia, then they get picked up by the hot print head and stick to it, then they accumulate there until they snag some other part of the print or become heavy enough to sag and fall off, then they stick to the print, then the next time the head passes it'll drag it around some more usually stretching it out, until it just sticks it in place permanently with another layer on top, and now there's like a thick bristle or something sticking out of my model. I don't know if this is common and a normal part of "stringing", though, because I never had any stringing issues with just PLA.
Also, I cannot escape my curse of warping. Benchy is a particularly great way to see it because it has a relatively tiny base that quickly expands into a much bigger mass in the layers above. I had some warping on PLA with a 60* bed, and PETG would just pop off at 60*, seriously separate at 70*, so I cranked it to 80* and it's basically at the same levels as my PLA warping. Interestingly, this manifests only after a few layers - I have the fan disabled for the first 4 layers, and it's fine, then it gets enabled, but it's still fine for a while, then eventually by the maybe 20th layer or so it's possible to see the start of the warping, then it progresses a bit until it eventually stops at some point and that's my warping for the print.

>>1802778
Here's a potato picture showing off the warping (apologies for the cancer lighting). You can see the back lifting up a bit over 1mm, and it only truly rejoins the bed at around 30-40% of the length of the base. There's also a bit of warping a the front which isn't really seen, but it's much less pronounced.

This isn't much of a problem in terms of adhesion on larger prints, but it'd still be nice to not have dimensional inaccuracies. I'm not sure how to combat this, though. Turn the fan way down? But it's already around 65% most of the time (it varies due to slic3r's variable fan speed) and as I described above the warping doesn't set on until much later in the print. I could try to keep the fan off for the first, like, 20 layers as an experiment maybe.
Or turn the bed head even further up? There is no noticeable deformation/elephant's foot yet, but I'm a bit wary of going 85-90*C for petg when every online resource says it uses similar bed temperatures to PLA and can even be printed without a heated bed. Maybe my thermistor is garbage, but just to touch a 60* bed is very hot but not scalding, a 40* or even 50* bed can be held comfortably (though it feels quite hot), and an 80* bed actually burns after less than 1s of contact, which seems about right. I also would rather not have to bother with gluesticks or tape if I can help it, considering those are often mentioned for use to improve non-heated beds and mine is really, really heated, and it technically already has some kind of build surface (it's the creality glass bed).
I do want to clean it a bit because it's somewhat dusty and might also have fingerprints and shit, and see if that helps. Otherwise, I really don't know. Is it worth printing at 90* and seeing if that helps?

>>1802177
>>1802180
>>1802192
Print the cylindrical stringing test twice, one at 200% diameter. You should see regular pattern of different thicknesses, and on the larger one the pitch should be tighter. If that's the case it proves that the extruder was the problem

>>1802778
Honestly PETG oozes so much I'll always print a skirt a really short distance away so it doesn't have time to ooze out between the skirt and the first line of the print. Also turn on combing in your slicer and scrape the nozzle clean while it's heating up before the print so there won't be a giant blob of plastic on the nozzle ready to snag on something.

>>1802784
>>1802800
By the way I use hairspray/3DLAC with a bed temp of just 60 degrees celcius and no cooling fan and have no warping. I print carbon PETG and small parts so maybe it's different.

>Creality Ender 3
if I get a geared extruder, can I swap the E and Y motors? Would that make the Y axis movement more quiet?

Are there any methods of using scrap plastic to produce 3d printer filament?

Tried out a stringing test and the xyz cal cube with s3d. Overall really good results, but some questions I have for if anyone has the answers:
Is there a way to adjust the flow rate for solid layers?
Is there a setting to hide the seam on a corner or have them all be in a single line? Using the optimize start points for print speed makes it turn out a bit ugly, and I imagine random points would be the same.
Finally, what are the recommended numbers for coasting and wiping distance? Stock settings have 0.2mm and 5mm, but 5 seems kind of extreme.
>>1802815
If you want it to be quiet get a creality board with silent drivers.
>>1802816
The plastic will have to be all of the same type, but if it is then yes.

>>1802816
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/filastruders-accessories/products/filastruder-kit

https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Filastruder/

Anyone having a problem with thingiverse not loading more pages when scrolling and know a fix?

>>1802869
Yes, and no

>>1802869
Yes, and in the specific instance it impeded me, I just used Yeggi to find the model I needed on Thingiverse instead.
I can't say how good/reliable that service is as a whole, though.

>>1802869
>Anyone having a problem with thingiverse not loading more pages when scrolling and know a fix?
This site has some major issues ever since they updated. I don't know what the fuck is going on but it's fucking broken.
I don't think you will find a fix because it's obviously caused by them.

>>1802872
>>1802880
>>1802882
Well, it's good to hear its not just me I suppose. I've only have my printer for a year but I've never met a more shit website.

>>1802586
I've heard Aldi sells their own brand and it's decent.

imo the shit is still just barely expensive enough that I know I'd get frugal with it if my supply ran low so ordering it is fine for keeping a stockpile to avoid that.
It's nice to be able to browse manufacturers and their latest gimmick varieties instead of just getting whatever's cheapest on a shelf too, if you wanna look on the bright side. And it can't be overstated how gay it is to go outside even when there isn't an apocalypse on

>>1802882
>it's obviously caused by them.
why are they manipulating their stock price

Can someone please patiently advise why my print profile is fucked? I can't work out why I'm getting big gaps.
I am positive that my nozzle is 0.4 mm, but it is unmarked.
Running an Ender 5.
Cura 4.5 profile uploaded here:
https://ufile.io/hj7e1cnf
You're welcome to talk to me like I'm stupid, but please be polite.

>>1802903
I should have mentioned that the PLA is this one specifically. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07R6PL63K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Printing at 205 which has been fine historically. Problems didn't start when using this specific PLA.

>>1802903
>>1802906
Are you referring to the gaps in the surface layers between the print lines?

>>1802914
Yes, the top layer and the walls.

>>1802918
This is a sign of underextrusion.
Calibrate your e-steps.

>>1802918
Also worth while you're at it just cleaning the gears of your extruder gear with a wire brush.

>>1802919
>>1802920
Perfect thanks, I recently had a couple blockages, as such the gears ground the unmoving filament into dust at the extruder. I didn't think much of the debris it left.
I will give it a good clean first and then look at calibrating if it doesn't improve.
Astute observation, thank you.

>>1802924
The gear had become slightly worn by this so I have moved it further down the spindle by 1.5mm so the undamaged section of the splines is in contact with the filament. I shall post results later.
This will suffice as a work around, I have ordered a replacement extruder kit.

>>1802821
>If you want it to be quiet get a creality board with silent drivers.
or get an actually good board at an actually reasonable price, with silent drivers

What causes those top layer dots?

>>1802968
Add an extra top layer and turn down the top layer printing speed.

>>1802968
srsly /3dpg/ is that the quality you guys consider good enough? not even talking about the dots

I am having a fucking time with PETG on a CR10S, specifically with bed adhesion.

Have about 4 failed prints so far into the first few layers.

I usually print PLA on Blue tap, never had adhesion issues. It would not grip on the blue tape and minimal force would break the first layer adhesion and start spreading from there until the whole print detached.

Tried washable glue stick straight on glass, no bueno either. Running 35mm/sec vs 60 for successful PLA prints. What am I missing?

>>1802997
if you cant get petg to stick your doing something totally wrong
petg sticks like superglue and even kills glassbeds

>>1803000

That's what I kept reading which baffles me. It's US made stuff and I've had a great time with their PLA/PLA+.

Almost the entire first layer is support, so maybe it's just flexing too much. I'll try a raft and see if that helps.

>>1803004
you come, want help yet didnt even post a picture. i can assure you its not the filament, 99% certain user error
hint: If a raft makes it stick you leveled to the wrong z height

>>1803006
What gap are you using for PETG? I've increased mine vs PLA, but I haven't measured with feeler guage.

As far as pictures, nothing to see but birds nest print failure so far.

>>1803011
do exactly as i tell you now
Preheat nozzle and bed to print Temperature, perform a manual retract and wipe the nozzle clean. Home printer, disable steppers, command z move up by 0.1mm. move print head manually to the spots you want to level on
level with an 80g sheet of a4 paper, adjust until you feel nozzle scratching.
Congrats, your Pinter is leveled correct now.
DO not touch the knobs anymore if shit wont stick! It can all be done in slicer
Clean the bed with 99% IPA
Now slice with 100% initial layer flow. If print does not stick increase in 5-10% steps. then reduce in 2% until no elephant foot is left. I guess 100% will be fine for no tuned setup
Alternative to 1st layer flow you could raise 1st bed temp up by 5 degree (less Elefant foot)

>>1802994
from where I'm sitting it looks like UX on his surface layer and some other weird spots, but other than that it looks more or less fine. The lighting makes it hard to tell.

>>1803014
>level with an 80g sheet of a4 paper, adjust until you feel nozzle scratching.
Not him but I hate this part. How much is "scratching" exactly? Is there a characterised amount of force I need to be able to apply to pull the paper out? "Scratching" seems to cover a wide range from "can be moved freely but will touch the nozzle, making light scratching" to "has to be ripped out by force, with loud scratching".
I think I have a feeler gauge somewhere. Would 1mm work? With metal it seems easier to print it to "exactly" the gauge thickness, where if you lift slightly there's a gap and if you lower slightly it starts gripping the gauge. Paper is compressible and flexible and I hate it

>>1803022
>until you feel scratching
move the paper around, until you feel resistance from the nozzle. By the time it's physically possible for a human to feel it, it'll be the right distance.

>>1803022
well, difference between light scratching and ripping is not even 1/3 turn on the wheel.
meaning its not that critical, most people who dont know better level 0.1 (effectively having a 0.3mm gap on 0.2mm LH and still get something to stick)
Aim for an even scratch on all points (center might be to low, doesnt matter that much). Make sure the Paper can slide back into the gap if you pull it out, else you tilted the hotend up and are to close
Feeler gauge can work, used it myself but imo its less accurate and more awkward to use.
you will not feel it grab or when you tilt the nozzle up.
80g paper because its almost exactly 0.1mm btw.

>>1802919
>>1802931
Okay, here's an update.
Calibrated e-steps and that has solved my problem. That was interesting to learn.
Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

>>1803064
Good job. Can't remember last time someone put so much effort into their images to explain their problem. It's an exceedingly common issue though, 2m of searching would of gotten you to the same advice.

>>1802994
Good enough for what?

Is resin strong/rigid enough for the printed parts of a custom printer e.g hypercube or voron?
I'd print them in petg but I like the idea of how precise the resin prints would be.

>>1803065
I work in IT. I'm normally on the other end so I know how to convey a problem well.
You're right, but it's easier to just be told outright rather than second guess if what I'm researching is correct.

>>1803064
damn, great turnaround. what did you do/guide you followed? would make a good infoguide for the future

>>1803064
>>1803087
Now that I get a second look, do those whitish lines running NW to SE on the after print feel rough/stick up? Or is that the lighting?

>>1802968
Could be moister in the filament those cause bubbles to form when it hits the hot end. It also over extruded to me

>>1803093
I got the best gist of it from https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/
I just used motion commands on the printer control panel instead of sending commands.
I ignored the steps that said mark 120mm and then feed 100mm, because fiddling with a caliper at the extruder was tedious.
Instead I pulled the bowden tube out the hot end, cut the filament flush and then fed 100mm and measured what came out the end.
I truly suck at equation so I used the caluator found on https://3daddict.com/3d-printer-extruder-calibration-steps/
>>1803096
It's negligible drag from a string of filament as it passes over. I have retraction enabled. If it didn't it would have just caught on the side instead.
You can't feel it raised up, it catches the light from my task lamps.

>>1803096
thats loss on travel move

Anyone else find more blockages when using PLA+ over regular PLA. It seems inevitable with the added particles. I was running PLA at 205C, have had to go up to 210-215C for PLA+ and still not perfect.
I've had a google but common results.

>>1803114
The PLA+ I've used has printed just as well as PLA with no changes to temp. Although it was a shitty brand with weird colors and not that great of strength.

>>1803085

You need to by special tough resin like Siraya Blue or Elegoo's "ABS-like". It may look prettier, but will end up costing more for parts with the same functionality.

>>1803114
PLA+ is non-standard and brand specific.
I started printing with sunlu PLA+ and then got a roll of sunlu PLA and it was notably worse, in particular it started having noticeable elephant's foot which the PLA+ never had, plus cylindrical towers would print garbage (PLA+ didn't print perfect towers but it was slightly rough, the PLA results in towers that look downright jagged and wobbly all over the place), I got noticeable layer switch artifacts/perimeter seams. Maybe my settings were wrong but I followed spec and adjusted the temp - in the end nothing I needed to print in PLA was crucial dimensionally (well except some parts which weren't susceptible to these issues, mostly wider shorter flat-ish parts) so I didn't bother tweaking majorly, but I definitely had an easier time with the PLA+.
Point is that's gonna be considerably different for other brands because the "+" just means "we added stuff" and nothing any more precise than that. That, and it will of course depend on your printer and settings: if you spent a while tuning your settings for PLA then maybe PLA+ will print worse. (I never tuned much for either, which is why I'm complaining that the PLA is having issues despite not having experimented with settings - I didn't experiment with the PLA+ either and it was fine.)

>>1802903
>>1802918
>>1803064
>>1803065
How do you figure out if you need to calibrate e-steps vs. just it being an underextrusion/low flow issue?

>>1803142
Don't you get underextrusion from poor e-steps? I mean I guess it can stem from extuder malfunction, gear damage/being off-center, stuff like that, but calibrating takes 5 minutes and will fix things - if it's really a different problem, if the damage is constant (e.g. gears are worn and have poor grip, but in a way that pushes filament through consistently) it'll just patch over it anyway, and if it's not then you wasted 5 minutes and a small calibration print, eliminating the easiest solution.

Ive just removed my ender 3 stepper motor dampers and swapped from a 1.1.3 to 1.1.5 board, my god what a difference, just fan noises now.

GREETINGS

I am considering getting a printer mostly for /tg/ things(minis, terrain, dice towers, etc.) but also for making small hardware around the house and to teach the kids about 3d modeling

I was considering either an anycubic photon, or the anycubic i3 mega (printers under 300USD)

I am wondering what you could recommend or forewarn regarding either of those, or recommendations there related to?

If my choices are stupid tell me so, I will eventually own both an SLA and an FDM machine. But I'm deciding what to buy first

Now that my post is posted onward to reading the thread

>>1803174
>I will eventually own both an SLA and an FDM machine. But I'm deciding what to buy first
FDM.

>>1803165
>1.1.5 board
why
the skr e3 is 20$
why would anyone buy crealyshit

>printer makes weird sounds like something is rubbing against something else
>extruder pretends to skip steps
>prints come out beautiful anyway

>>1803174
For terrain, functional prints and larger prints you'll want an fdm machine.
For the minis you can't beat sla right now.

It just depends which of those you value more.
Your printer choices are fine.

>>1803184
>prints come out beautiful

>doubt

I have an abundance of nema 17s
What do

>>1803183
I didn't realise they were that cheap until I had already bought this, I wasn't going to fit it but in troubleshooting a problem I have with the printer I ended up having to.

>print axes sometimes make a whole of noises, rattling, whining, scratching, and more
>no visible quality difference compared to when they're running normally, and no major issues in general

>>1803142
Cleaning and adjusting the gear didn't fix, the guides linked above have a diagnostic step. You tell your printer to extrude 100mm and then you see how much it really extruded. That way you can see if you go over or under.

I have been resin printing for quite some time but I needed clear resin for a small project I'm doing.
Is there any way to reduce or eliminate the bubbles?
I have replaced the FEP film, I have no z-wobble, resin is well mixed and the temperature is perfect.

>>1802736
>>1802756
>>1802778
Thanks! Yikes -- increase temps? :-( I'll give it a shot, though. I thought I read that reducing temps was how to reduce the oozing and stringing, but dropping to 210 didn't fix it and is almost too cold for this stuff.

>>1802784
>but I'm a bit wary of going 85-90*C for petg when every online resource says it uses similar bed temperatures to PLA and can even be printed without a heated bed. Maybe my thermistor is garbage
I'm not sure where you're reading that, I was told an 80C bed is necessary for PETG. Bed adhesion works fine at that for me. I am surprised though that you find it too hot to touch an 80C bed, maybe it's the masking tape layer on mine but I don't have a problem with it. Touching the glass edges is painful (when I have to move it to the side to get a broken print out from under the head so I can scrape it off) but the masking tape doesn't let enough heat through to burn me if I'm just touching that.

picunrelated

>>1802997
Same printer, I'm the guy with the spaghetti problem in >>1802712. I'm not having any problem with bed adhesion on the PETG, at least not any more than I did with PLA (both pop loose occasionally). I'm keeping the bed temp at 80C for PETG (45 for PLA). I still have the original factory-supplied big-sheet masking tape on the glass.

>>1803262
There's nothing surprising about 80*C being too hot to touch - it's near water boiling temperature. It's very much hot enough to burn with any prolonged contact, though it's not so hot as to instantly sear at the slightest touch like maybe an oven might do. And metal and glass heat transmission are both excellent, comparable to water (very roughly), very much unlike air (which is vastly more insulating), so if you wouldn't plunge your hand into near-boiling water then you shouldn't enjoy touching an 80* glass plate either.
But yeah very possibly the masking tape is insulating it or something. Though I'd still expect it to heat up after a little while, it might just take longer. Have you done any large prints, or just this small stuff? I'd be very surprised if the tape was still comfortable to the touch after a couple of hours of being on an 80* bed.

>adhesion
Bah, I might cave and get some tape or glue or something eventually. I was really hoping to avoid all this hassle, with a "modern" glass bed that has an integrated build surface, and good heating (where apparently the cheap printers of yesteryear didn't even always have a heated bed, which seems to be where a lot of the "gluestick" advice originated from), that kind of stuff.
Is there by any chance any better glass bed than the creality one I got in 2018? Something which would have even better adhesion, to definitely finally make tape/hairspray/gayshit obsolete and give me peace of mind (and ideally be actually perfectly flat, unlike the creality chink glass which manages to be slightly warped and is lower in the center than the corners)?

Is a monoprice d7 for 180$ a good deal? I want a sla printer just for messing around with and it seems like a good deal, idk how it would compare to like the other ~200$ sla printers tho. anyone have one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SLA-LCD-High-resolution-Resin-3D-Printer-Duplicator-7-metal-hood-250ml-resin/233283721413?epid=28033925427&hash=item3650cb18c5:g:J88AAOSw3axelpYp#rwid

Is there any way to convert plastic 3D prints to glass? I've seen things like lost wax casting for metals, but how would I use 3d printers to prototype glass parts?

Anyone here use solidworks professionally? Just got my CSWE as a student and I'm curious if you think it'll help me find work once I graduate.
>>1803275
I have no advice sadly but I am also interested in this

>>1803275
make a sand mold from the print and cast it with molten glass?

>>1803275
Couldn't you just do lost-wax casting into plaster, but pour molten glass into the mold instead of molten metal?

I'm trying to use Simplify3D and it doesn't generate any GCode, no matter what profile or model I use. I'm trying to slice a 3DBenchy but I've tried other models as well.

>>1803262
>I thought I read that reducing temps was how to reduce the oozing and stringing,
Reducing temps does reduce oozing and stringing. That picture didn't depict oozing and stringing. Pic related is an example of stringing.

What >>1802712 depicts is more like horrendously bad layer adhesion. As in the layers aren't adhering whatsoever. The plastic, for one reason or another, isn't melting properly and consequently isn't adhering to the previous layers.

The elaborate on the suggestions:

1: The nozzle may not be hot enough, and instead of melting the plastic, it is just being made really soft and forced through the nozzle like play-doh. The fix here is to raise the temperature.
2: The nozzle may be heated to the correct temperature, but the plastic is being forced through so fast that it doesn't have sufficient time to heat up to the nozzle's temperature. This is a problem more likely to be encountered by nozzles with larger diameters or ones made out of metals that are less thermally conductive than brass. The fix here is to either raise the temperature or slow down the rate that plastic is extruded through the nozzle by either lowering the print speed or using a smaller layer height.
3: The cooling fan may be cooling the new layers too fast before they can properly bond with the previous layer. The fix here is to reduce the cooling fan speed.

I'm leaning a bit towards a mix of #1 and #2. I suspect that the nozzle is heated to the lower end of what it needs to melt the plastic since it is bonding in the corners. However I also suspect that your nozzle is slowing down at the corners, giving the plastic more time to melt to the nozzle's temperature. It likely speeds up during the straightaways and the plastic is being forced through at a faster rate

There's also the possibility that there is something wrong with your hotend's thermistor, and that the nozzle is not actually heating up to the temperature that your machine thinks that it is.

>>1803262
>I was told an 80C bed is necessary for PETG
They lied.

>>1803227
>temperature is perfect
Unfortunately, that's the first thing I was going to recommend doing, to heat it to 30C or so.

>>1803307
I suppose. I wanted to make something like a glass flow reactor like this, but I don't think conventional casting methods are accurate enough

or this one.
Are resin prints capable of withstanding microwaves? >100C is unlikely, but are there high temperature plastics?

>>1803414
>>1803415
How thick are the gaps in the glass? Formlabs does a high temp resin here: https://formlabs.com/store/high-temp-resin/
0 idea about microwave resistance.

>>1803415
I'm not sure about most resins (genuinely have no idea) but Formlabs' High Temperature resin can get there. It is't clear, though.

Anyone recommend me some cool firearm accessories or tools? I already made some grips and magazine followers and throw levers but I'm sure there's more that I'm not thinking of

>>1802857
Is there any way I could alter the properties of the plastic with over the counter chemicals? Anything I could use as a plasticizer?

>>1801990
>have 3d printer
>have things I want to print
>be poorfag
>can't afford fillament

>>1803395
I have it in a box with a temperature sensor and if it gets to hot I remove the box.

>>1803495
>not selling things you print to make money for filament
It's not an income, but I can spend 10%-20% of a spool on making a couple knickknacks and sell them for as much as the whole spool cost.

>>1803184
Sounds like my Adventurer 3.

It's nice that the quality is excellent but getting up every half hour to check on it when it makes a weird noise is desensitising me to shit I should be paying attention to.

>>1803184
>printer makes weird sounds like something is rubbing against something else
What kind of sound?
I printed a filament guide when I first got my printer and only realized after a week or so that PLA-on-PLA friction produces horrific squeaking/screeching sounds. It got worse as the filament sawed farther into the print.
>extruder pretends to skip steps
You mean the thumping?
In my experience, that often doesn't actually impact the print itself, but it's a symptom of the nozzle being too close to the bed and I can't imagine it's good for the extruder motor if it happens regularly.

>>1803495
>friends want models for D&D
>print models for D&D
>sell models

You can replace the word D&D with anything and it would still apply. Sell prints that people want and make a few bucks for more filament.

Post your favorite color of filament

>>1803278
>Anyone here use solidworks professionally?
It's my dayjob. I use much crappier CAD software for my side business stuff.
>I'm curious if you think it'll help me find work once I graduate.
Sure. Even more so if you can branch out into CAM, or even just have practical experience turning your drawings into actual parts.

>>1803430
>How thick are the gaps in the glass?
depends.
The vapourtech reactor I posted cites 1mm inner diameter, 0.2-1.7mL total volume.
https://www.vapourtec.com/products/flow-reactors/glass-microreactor-micromixer-chip-features/

Alright, starting to get comfy with SCAD. how do people make these super complex shapes? is it SCAD + another modeling program? are there any other program-y ones? I'm a CS guy, not a design guy.

>>1803184
I figured out what the extruder noise was.
After it does a retraction and resumes printing it basically j-jams it in to the nozzle afterwards at way too fast a pace for it all to melt.
Like I said, prints are fine but it is worrying.
Looking in cura there's a setting for retraction prime speed, reckon that'd improve things?

>>1803716
Interesting. I'm not chem, so what're the purposes of these devices?
Unfortunately like >>1803432 says, high temp isn't clear. And even for the clear resins, you will likely need to do some cleaning/processing to it. Can you give an example of what a "standard" temp is? According to formlabs, their standard(clear) has a HDT of 73C @ 0.45MPa (https://formlabs.com/materials/engineering/))

I have major problems when printing in lower resolutions than 0.1. I get an extreme amount of stringing and abhorrent layer adhesion.

front of pic is something printed in 0.25 and in the back something printed in 0.1 rest of the settings are the same.
I mean I expect a worse resolution but not for it to throw my whole printer out of wack.

Anybody have an idea why its that bad?
I am using an cr10

>>1803495
>can afford a several hundred dollar printer
>cannot afford 25 bucks for a kilogram roll of filament
how much of a paint drinking retard are you with your money?
do you not have a fucking job?

>>1803720
You might want to give an example of 'complex'... I've personally never used openSCAD, but glancing at the function list makes me think you can probably engineer almost anything, as long as you can break it down into basic shapes. If you're trying to produce sculpted statues or something, you probably want to use something different (unless you happen to have multiple brains or something).

>warped printbed
what now

IT DIDNT STICK AGAIN

Don't reply to it
report all 'oomers on sight

THIS BETTER FUCKING WORK NOW

>>1803720
piece by piece

>>1803762
>>1803763
>>1803770
should have bought a prusa

>>1803792
>IM PRUUMING

>>1803771
stitching it together

is there any way to make thingiverse less shit?

Give it to me straight, /3dpg/. Is there any way, in 2020, to get a bed that's actually GUARANTEED to be actually FLAT? I am sick and tired of having bumps and hollows, even in my glass bed. I found this cool glider which has 2 layer thick wings, and with a bed perfectly levelled on all 4 corners, the center is sunk down, and one particular spot actually has a bump (with layers visibly squishing way too much there, while closer to the edge it's levelled properly, and closer to the center it is - like I said - too low, if anything). So the wing comes out noticeably patchy, with thick and thin sections.
I would pay even $60 for a good bed. It can't be that hard, can it?

>>1803808
>guaranteed to be flat
get quality float glass.
As shit gets heated it deforms, pretty much no way around that

>>1803808
I bought another bed and it was worse than the one I already had.
I ended up putting a dial test indicator on my hot end and found out my bed is mostly flat, it just lifts up at the corners where its been drilled.

>>1803809
Guess I'm gonna have to throw my own build surface on top of that then, if they don't make specifically coated beds for this.
>as shit gets heated it deforms
Surely there are ways to engineer stuff so that this expansion is kept uniform and/or minimised?
>>1803815
Dang, that makes a bit of sense though. But I'm outraged that there was an actual bump, not just the usual "corners are higher than the center" which is apparently common.

>>1803808
just get a cast ground aluminum plate and be done forever. These do not deform AT ALL if you dont over tighten the level screws
5-8 mm thick depending on size + sanded 0.5mm pertinax/FR4 glued on and a silicone heater
my setup cost me 60€ (all local prices not even chinkery) and i even bumped Power supply voltage by 2v for 40w more heating

>>1803808
Should have bought a prusa.

>>1803826
just filter "prusa" and improve this place by ~50%

>>1803823
Can you tell me a bit more? This sounds potentially perfect but I've never done anything even remotely like this. Does aluminium really have lower thermal expansion than a good borosilicate glass? And do you get it in plates that are actually near-perfectly flat?
Do you get FR4 in sheets that are also nearly perfectly flat?
Could you give me more info on riggin up my own heater? Is this just stuff I look up ("silicone heater" or "printer bed heater" or something) and just stick on there and plug it in instead of the current heater, or is there more I need to know?

>>1803757
basically what >>1803771 posted - interconnected pieces with tight tolerances. I want to try to make an integrated cooling/direct drive solution

>>1803806
Be so rich your buy it from Makerbot and replace all their garbage servers (and dev employees) with capable ones.

I generally end up having to search their site using duckduckgo because their on-site search function is so broken now.

>>1803842
maybe try googling the stuff i mentioned and draw it out before you buy, for the heater you have to consider size and hole position.
This whole setup is not uncommon and rather cheap if you can source locally
>near-perfectly flat
cast precision ground plates are
you need cast, not rolled
>FR4 perfectly flat
does not matter, at 1-0.5mm if you glue it on with thermal transfer tape it follows the plate. Pertinax is better
>riggin up my own heater
while you can, its something you rather buy. By far the most expensive part of the whole setup.
pic rel. you see the 5mm plate sandwich in foreground

>>1803847
holy fuck that stringing

>>1803848
i get stringing with decently tuned extrusion
stringing is annoying but managable, in exchange the 3mm holes are withing 0.05mm in size, probably exact hit after cooling shrinkage over night
don't know what it causes but its neither flow, retraction, cooling, speed or temperature. i tested them all

New thread: >>1803861

>>1803847
>FR4 perfectly flat
I meant uniform thickness, my bad.
That sounds nice though, thanks for the info. I'll look into all this.

>>1803726
>so what're the purposes of these devices?
superheating, basically. Reactions predicted to take 9 weeks at <40% yield, only take 15min in a flow reactor at 70-90% yield.
Microwave is one technique - you can directly irradiate the compound while leaving a uwave-transparent solvent (like the low-boiling DCM) cool. Or you can microwave a uwave-opaque solvent to conventionally heat, or use a temperature controlled oven to heat a small sample.

formlabs also has a ceramic printing resin, has anyone here used that?

>>1801379
What if the head whole printer could turn 90 degrees? so you could print up and down and side to side (up and down when rotated)?

>>1804048
Issue with the ceramic resin is you need to fire it to fet the advertised properties. Chem inertness is likely what you'd want , but it would shrink during firing, and idk if it's inert unfired.

>>1802869
Got the same issues on chrome. Use another browser. Edge works surprisingly well

>>1800691
I'm so glad this crusty Djeeta found its way here too. Been seeing it from /vg/ to /tg/ as people cry out the eternal phrase:

Thin. Your. Paints.

>>1804194
This fucker's been here for months, posting his terrible prints and attempting to one-up everybody else because he got an SLA printer - despite everybody pretty much universally telling him he's absolute shit at printing and painting, he refuses to listen to suggestions

>>1800654
DID SOMEONE SAY SKELETONS?

>>1803862
>>1804202
migrate, skeleton-man

>>1804050
It's not clear to me that vertical layers will actually bond properly.
Might help with diagonal components if the angle isn't too steep, though. Or maybe it would even work fine vertically and I'm wrong. 5-axis printer when?

How easy is it to sell stuff on etsy or wherever? Especially with an FDM. What do people actually buy? Especially in Europe/UK. Sometimes I feel like this country is inhabited solely by nofun boomers and some subhuman chavs.
I'm not here to start a business, mind you, but I'm not running my printer too much of the time and I've seen people mention recouping the cost of filament rolls with a few small prints. If it's just a matter of listing some zoomer tier figurines or whatever, watching a couple orders roll in, and shipping, I could do that, but is that even realistic? Who buys unpainted prints anyway - unless I get some meme shiny rainbow filament or something I guess?

tl;dr does anyone have actual experience selling stuff with minimal effort

>>1803227
Oh these valves are cool. Is this for an actual function or just demonstration?

>>1804269
I've made about $200 so far selling lithophanes purely via word-of-mouth/Facebook. People email me a picture, I print it, email them an invoice, and mail it to them.
Lithophanes actually work best when printed in pure white filament, so no painting or anything required.

>>1804736
I'm doing research to so if 3d topology optimized Tesla valves can restrict flow while spinning at high RPM for CNC mills.