/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1798050
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk9 or Mk8)
what are these? prusa clones? I googled and did not find anything. the only time I recall the terms mk8 and mk9 being used are for the alternative non-e3d style hotend used on the ender3.

I would also propose adding Triangelab or FYSETC MK3S clone to the list. It can be had for <$500-600 off Aliexpress, even with a Bear upgrade. you could argue it's chink/no guarantee of quality, but I would say the same for anything from Creality. and Aliexpress is a fantastic spot for printer resources if you're willing to take a chance on shit failing once in a while. I've spent over $600 on printing-related hardware from there and only ever lost $30ish bucks on an Ender 3 heatbed that failed.

also consider listing the rough BOM prices for Hypercube, Hypercube Evo, Voron.

>>1798061
I think something got lost in translation, there's no such thing as a "MK9 or MK8" prusa that I've heard of, unless it's what you mentioned (the extruder). Don't know how nobody caught that earlier, it's been in the last three threads, weird.

I have a monoprice mini that is having problems with the extruder motor. should i just chuck it?

>>1798061
>>1798063
2 threads ago it was a /4dpg/ thread, and anon changed a bunch of names to make them seem more futuristic. OP forgot to change back the mk of the prusas in this thread and the last it seems.

>>1798061
There's no way that buying a chink printer for just 100-200€ less than a genuine Prusa could be worth it

>>1798068
what kind of problems? are you sure it's the stepper, or is it related to the filament grip/extruder assembly? it could also be a failing stepper driver, or voltage set too low.

It seems from a quick Google search that it does take a common 3dprinting stepper, no funny connectors. So IMO it would be worth a shot to fix, if you're willing to disassemble it... I gave up and sold mine because of all the other issues the printer has, and how poorly laid out the printer internals are (at least for maintenance...)

It seems the stepper is available for purchase here:
>https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33716

or you could use any other NEMA17 stepper that uses the same connector. Aliexpress for $8 but who knows when it would arrive. note that if you buy a longer stepper than the Monoprice, there may be clearance issues.. you should check, if you go that route. also consider buying a metal extruder assembly because plastic bad.

>>1798074
I bought an entire MK3S with Bear frame, plus the printed parts, for $365. Then I just had to buy the Einsy board for $80, but you could also go with an SKR if you don't want to run PF. $588 shipped, even cheaper if you buy the one without the Bear frame. The key point is that I'm getting an entire Bear frame for less than the price of one stock Prusa kit. It is amazing value if you're willing to assemble yourself... I said $500-600 because I couldn't remember exactly what I paid and wanted to be safe on my claim.

>>1798078
thanks for the detailed answer man. so when i'm printing, the extruder tries to move but can't move any filament, which made me think. It sounds like the motor is struggling, and makes a repetitive clunking noise. when I try to move the extruder by itself it has the same issue.

>>1798082
so when you depress this arm, and try to turn the hobbed gear, is it impossible or extremely difficult? It shouldn't be... maybe a little resistance but not impossible. If so, I would dissassemble and remove the stepper, and see if it's still impossible. If it is, the stepper is probably fried. You may be able to contact Monoprice and get a replacement one, depends on when/where you bought it and all that

>>1798078
I don't really get why you're so stoked for an inferior frame design but alright whatever.

>>1798086
okay, so I took a look at the stepper itself- it seems like the shuddering is from the stepper but only sometimes. basically when it's going the same direction for a while it's fine, but occasionally it shudders.

It seems to be working okay for now, so i'm doing a test print. i attempted to level the bed but this printer for sure is not the best so we'll see how it goes.

>>1798090
I simply didn't have the money or time to do a custom build, I wanted something I knew would work
>>1798101
most likely a vref thing then, probably not enough power going to that stepper. on the board, there should be little potentiometers, which can be adjusted to allow the stepper to draw more current. A Google search will help you, I do not remember anything about that printer's board specifically.

Also, it could be a hotend jam that's overworking the stepper. It's possible, but if you are getting mostly consistent extrusion, you're probably fine.

>>1798105
Can that thing really support 4 monitors without any problems? Seems... Well, pretty fucking small. I'd be impressed if there wasn't some compromise and it ran fine.

I 3D printed an ocarina. 50% infill, 0.1mm. Its actually very playable.

>>1798105
hey, so believe it or not it seems to work fine now. i cleaned out the end of the tip with a paperclip and tried printing something and it seems to be going fine. I'll have updates later on how things turn out!

>>1798133
post a video of you playing it you fucking nigger

>>1798136
hey that's not nice

>>1798136
https://vocaroo.com/3SyDu1cWumj

>>1798137
I believe he deserved it, for not even posting an image. I hope he learns from this experience, and grows as a result of it.
>>1798138
Not bad at all, good job!

>>1798061
Did you print that mask? What orientation?
I printed a Hau, but mine didn't look nearly as good as that pic. Although, I was also using Creality's shitty built-in slicer at the time.

>>1798138
Shit, that sounds as good as the ceramic ocarina I bought years ago.
Well done.

>modding my printer
>accidentally short the fans while testing them
>now none of the fans work
I am neither smart enough nor rich enough for this hobby.

>>1798148
A new fan is like 2-3$ delievered.

>>1798148
Now you know that's the wrong way around, get some noctua fans next time.

>>1798150
>>1798151
I meant the actual pins on the board.
It was a duet too.

>>1798157
I bet you have, but did you turn the board on and off again? There's a good chance in my opinion there's a resettable fuse.

>>1798151
noctua fans are SHIT in this application and don’t belong in the hobby. monoprice mini community was extremely mistaken on this and wondered why they had heatcreep issues.

>>1798135
nice! hope it works. for future reference don’t put anything in your nozzle, they are very delicate, try to avoid at all costs

>>1798157
The fans are driven by a MOSFET and there's a diode between the output pins.
I'd check if one of them are broken. They wouldn't be too hard to replace.

>>1798158
No luck unfortunately.
>>1798160
I have no idea, it looks fine.

Would I be able to get around this by wiring my fans straight to the PSU somehow?

>>1798165
>Would I be able to get around this by wiring my fans straight to the PSU somehow?
Yes.
They're just 12v fans. But they're gonna blast at full power all the time - you lose the ability to control their speed.
That only matters for the part cooling fan though.

>>1798166
Neat.
They're 24v, can I literally just wire them straight to the PSU or would I need some kind of regulator in between?
I'm fine with them being on all the time since I only print PLA.

>>1798157
>buying a duet without knowing damn sure you know what you're doing
you deserve to be poor

I want to add a nema42 stepper on my printer instead of the original nema17, bu the nema 42 eats 6A and my driver can only do 2A tops, is it possible to run the stepper on only 2A? (with less torque of course)

>>1798179
Why?

>>1798181
i am replacing the bed axis (y) with rotary axis for laser engraving and the rotary axis rig comes with nema 42

where/what filament should I buy
every single one on amazon has a top rated review saying its shit

>>1798179
yes it should work but with reduced torque
you can alternatively buy a 4A stepper driver for 10$ on ebay

>>1798209
What's your budget per roll, and what's your location.
(if your looking on amazon, I take it you're in the US?)

>>1798213
germany
should be the cheapest pricepoint that still has reasonable quality (new to 3d printing so Im not sure how much that is)

>>1798216
For PLA just get whatever is cheapest. Even low quality PLA filament is easy to work with.

For PETG, I'd start with an high-quality (e.g. from dasfilament.de) roll to get used to it and find the right parameters. Then you could move to shittier cheaper filament like https://www.ebay.de/itm/1kg-1-75mm-PETG/263722061782..

>>1798220
thanks

>>1798220
>high-quality e.g. from dasfilament.de
lmao their shit is garbage
in germany and surrounding there are the highest quality brands you will find, just search for made in germany/austria brands
extrud3r is pretty popular

>>1798243
>just search for made in germany/austria brands
you mean like dasfilament?

>>1798245
their the worst of the made in germany brands
still got 2 rolls of their stuff, since ive got good pla i dont want to use those anymore

>>1798250
I can't comment on their PLA but I had a few of their PETG rolls (but if you have troubles printing with any PLA you must be retarded).
Very uniformly extruded and rolled, quality pigments, and no troubles printing it.
I don't want to shill too much, it's possible you can get the same quality for less but it's an obvious superior filament compared to the cheap owlsat (another "made in Germany" brand) rolls I tend to use.

>>1798252
i dont want to start a flame war, just my personal experience after printing 3 rolls.
Their stuff is spiked, doesn't behave like "pure" pla. Its more soft, to viscous and low glass transition temperature. It has a smell to it while other brands ive tried are complete odorless
>16€ a roll
well if price is important, thats cheap desu

>>1798260
>well if price is important, thats cheap desu
Careful, they're all 800g rolls instead of the usual 1kg.

>>1798264
my usual brands want 21 for the 800g and 25 for the 1kg

>>1798216
PLA nimm dasFilament
PETG nimm das von spectrum filament. Letztlich 2 Rollen geholt und es ist wirklich top und dazu günstig.
TPU nimm K-camel von aliexpress. Das von dasFilament ist Schrott

>>1798220
>For PLA just get whatever is cheapest. Even low quality PLA filament is easy to work with.
Life is too short to mess with crap filament. If you are a pro and you are doing large quantity stuff you can cheap out on filament. Until then, don't buy the cheapest crap

>>1798243
no, only the TPU of dasFilament sucks. PLA is great PETG is ok from dasFilament.
Another great german brand is M4P but the price isn't justified

>>1798272
>Life is too short to mess with crap filament. If you are a pro and you are doing large quantity stuff you can cheap out on filament. Until then, don't buy the cheapest crap
The very first filament I printed with was PLA directly from China.
I had zero problems with it. I really don't understand how you can fuck up with PLA.

The best roll of PLA I ever had was a really cheap roll that was so impure that I could smooth it with acetone (but still easy to print with). I wish I could find it again.

brand recommendation on ASA?

>>1798277
Just read all the 1 star reviews on 10€/kg PLA where
- diameter fluctuates like crazy
- spooled so bad it knots itself
- randomly snaps before the extruder

>China filament
Nothing wrong with. You high tech posting device is also from China

>>1798281
>You high tech posting device is also from China
Nah, it's mostly out of Taiwanese and Korean parts.

>>1798282
Assembly and therefore quality check is done in PRC

>>1798114
There's a whole fucking community around maximising power per volume of PC builds
But anyway, first of all graphics cards often come with half a dozen ports but don't necessarily expect you to use all of them (I wouldn't be too surprised if this one supported up to three monitors, and didn't let you use the 1 HDMI at the same time as the 3 DP ports), second of all rendering a desktop is really cheap and this thing has more than enough power for it. Then, it either has some mememium liquid cooling that lets it run games on three monitors decently, or it can run them for 20 seconds before thermal throttling, either or.

>>1798166
>>1798166
I'm sure there's a way to nigger-rig some cheap components to actually let you control the fan speed. Probably not worth trying to communicate with the mainboard or parse gcode, but it'd allow manual control at least.
I can't into electronics so I don't actually know how, but it seems very very likely to me that it wouldn't be particularly hard nor expensive.

>>1798336
mosfet + opamp as oscillator with a potentiometer

>>1798348
Even easier would be to solder a wire directly to the gate of the broken (?) mosfet on the Duet and connect it to an external mosfet.

>>1798138
Do the germs inside this kill you after a while?

>>1798350
depends on what exactly is broken I guess
Ive killed single ports on arduinos before
op should check if the mosfet gate voltage is still correct

>>1798360
>Ive killed single ports on arduinos before
Sure, it's possible but I doubt it.
He said he shorted the fan pins, which would mean he shorted the MOSFET, not the pin which is just driving the gate and is current limited through a resistor.

Hey guys,
I've been printing with PLA for some time and gotten relatively comfortable with it. What are the advantages of moving to PTEG? I've read it's slightly harder to use, while resulting in considerably more resistant prints. What about food-gradeness, ability to drill/file the parts, etc?

>follow calibration/leveling guide to the letter
>doesn't work
Don't buy a delta fellas

>>1798367
What guide? What doesn't work?

One of the biggest advantages of a delta is that you can auto-calibrate and auto-level them really well (at least with a Smoothieboard - Marlin's auto-calibration was really buggy last time I used it)

>>1798368
Duets own documentation.
Essentially when I follow the listed steps my first layer still sucks.

>>1798371
This one: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer?

So you did auto-calibration and auto-level?
Then do a auto-calibration and levelling again after the first levelling.

The uneven bed can distort the auto-calibration - if you do it for the first time or change anything with the bed you should always run it twice.

noob here
i leveled my bed but prints wont stick
how do i fix this

For Z-axis, is it worth getting steppers with integrated leadscrews?

>>1798395
Nozzle too high off bed

>>1798395
>levels bed with spirit level.
Bruh moment.

>>1798419
you can blame the hobbyists for calling it "leveling" when it's actually called tramming

>>1798399
no, why should it

>>1798365
Use PLA for everything you can.
If you need the extra strengh, extra flex or extra temperature resistance use PETG.
PETG is said to be better for food applications. Although 3D prints aren't really hygenic because of the capillary effect between the layers.

PETG is pretty good stuff, I use it a lot

>>1798395
You need to make sure the surface your printer is on is level too.

>>1798422
Nah, I'll blame him for not understanding how his machine works.

>>1798395
Dude...

Do I have to use nitrile gloves or are there alternatives I can use. These gloves are impossible to come by and I just ran out.
I did just watch a video about reusing them by reversing them with a soda bottle which Ill do in the mean time. Especially since I go through 4 gloves a print sometimes.
I prototype with my printer and it just becomes a lot.

>>1798395
jesus christ

>ordered ender 3 from creality website on sunday
>still hasnt shipped
I know its only been one work day but the slit eyed jews arent scamming me right?

>>1798504
Impatient and racist. Bad look my guy.

>32 hour print
>28 hours in, the fucking bowden tube clip breaks and the bowden separates from the hotend
>extruder pushing out loops of filament out the disconnected bowden
>X/Y position is fucked
>notice approximately 30 minutes after this happens
>Carefully change octoprint cancel print gcode to not turn off motor positions--cannot afford to lose Z position
>Cancel print
>Inspect
>The little metal clip that clamps the bowden tube into the fitting broke
>It's 2-in-1-out extruder, just switch to the other port that wasn't in use anyway
>Measure layer--heights are 0.4mm so determining the next layer is pretty trivial, most of the outer wall of the prior layer completed as well
>Cut gcode at next layer, adjust start to make sure extruder position is correct and fans turn on
>Home X/Y
>Resume the print with recovery gcode at the next layer
>Begins next layer, no noticeable bulging or indenting, X/Y decently aligned
Better than initially expected

>>1798512
Aren't you supposed to be perusing the dog market to find dinner, Chang?

So I created this thing to open the doors without touching its handles. Later will add a clip so I can attach it on my jacket/belt/whatever and not contaminate inside of my pockets. Also I thought about adding some kind of claw on it. Any suggestions of improvememts?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4287071

>>1798526
does that work on a knob?

>>1798504
I had an order put in on the 5th ship on the 12th, it's just slow over there at the moment.

>>1798523
>I don't trust or like the Chinese
>Let's buy this printer from the Chinese
>WTF I think I'm getting scammed by the Chinese! Who could have seen this happening!?
You have no one to blame but yourself

>>1798528
Haven't tried yet, but i think it wont work. Fortunately knobs are not so common

>>1798395
Open menu, then motion menu and then click on auto home and then disable steppers. Then put some paper between nozzle and the bed and then turn this round thing on the bed before it touches the nozzle. Paper should move freely but with some resistance

>>1798536
thats not what Im used too. Generally its knobs, where are you from that has less knobs than pulls and shit?

>>1798518
>32 hours at 0.4mm
what are you making

>>1798543
IIRC it depends on the country. I think most of Europe has predominantly handles, I remember something about possibly US or somewhere else mainly having knobs.

>>1798543
I'm from france. In big cities on some old buildings you can see them, but on the most buildings you will find something like that and classic handles. I have 1&3 handles myself from picrelated

>>1798050
Does anyone know what the fuck is happening to my prints? It's rough as hell like it's sorta cutting into the print as the plastic goes down. Ender 3 Pro, using the CHEP profiles

>>1798568
Oof that looks bad, it's either extreme overextrusion or the nozzle is way too close to the print. Is this a single layer in your photo (i.e. the first layer) or the top of a model mid-print?

>>1798568
What are your printing settings? Speed, temperature, flow..

>>1798572
It's one or two layers, I don't remember. Took it late last night. I considered that it was too close but if I level the bed with more of a gap the stupid mask straps I'm trying to print don't adhere to the bed. It's either a complete failure or a really rough successful print.

Granted I'm just printing these out for work so they don't have to be fancy but it happens on other test prints I've tried as well

>>1798576
I'm new to Cura (coming from Slic3r) but I think this is mostly everything that's relevant. Layer height is .2mm, infill is irrelevant. The piece is so thin it prints 100% infill regardless of what you set

>>1798568
>It's rough as hell like it's sorta cutting into the print as the plastic goes down
Yours is a pretty extreme case, but typically a rough, sandpaper-like texture is a symptom of the nozzle being too close to the bed. It ends up "dragging" the filament along with it slightly as it places it.
Try Z-stepping the nozzle up using the tuning menu during a print, see if it causes the issue to disappear/get better.

>if I level the bed with more of a gap the stupid mask straps I'm trying to print don't adhere to the bed
When is the last time you cleaned your bed? That could help with adhesion. A higher bed temperature may help as well, at least for the first layer. I have my Ender 3's bed at 70C for the first layer, using Sunlu PLA.

>>1798598
Z-stepping. Gotcha. I'll give it a try when I get home. Thanks guys. Also I've just got the magnetic mat the E3P comes with. I keep it pretty clean

>>1798600
I believe the option is specifically called "baby-step Z." It lets you adjust your Z-position in 0.01mm steps during printing.

I am having trouble levelling my bed. It seems to get tighter towards the middle of the X axis. I really hope I don't have a warped buildplate.

Has anyone printed TPU in an unmodified Ender 3?

>>1798479
As long as they're not soluble in isopropyl alcohol or the resin you use, you should be fine.

>>1798543
>>1798536
>>1798528
>>1798551
Knobs are on their way out. Most any new construction in the US has handles to conform to ADA requirements

Why is everything sold out. I moved out and am bored enough to get my own 3d printer instead of printing week long prints at my parents every few weeks, but all the ender 3 is sold out unless it has a $100 premium

>>1798654
Even the DIY kit?

>>1798550
A part for work; speaker housing for the mechanical guy (me) to start doing assembly procedure mockups with. It measures 4.25" x 24" x 2". Normally work would be printing this, but without access to our model shop, I'm lucky to have such a large format printer at home.

>>1798640
Issue with TPU is you can have so many different styles of it under the same name (polymaker flex (0 stretch) to ninjaflex (super stretchy). Printing with "hard" tpu filaments like the polymaker flex and fiberlogy 40d for example are possible with bowden. Ninjaflex tends to be difficult even with most direct drive extruders, with the flexion probably being the only one that can do it without any mods. There's an anon in this general that does with a bowden, and his tips are to print at 10-15mm/s, with no retraction.
The other issue is the temperature. Your ptfe tube will melt and burn far quicker at the 230-240C to print TPU than the 190-200 you may be printing PLA at.

>>1798684
I've got Sunlu.

Am I a fool for wanting to diy one of the CoreXY derivatives?
I want to replace my Wanhao Duplicator i3 and the Hypercube Evolution or Easy CoreXY look interesting

What would be the best route for a cheapish 3D printer that can handle nylon? I'm thinking about just getting an Ender 3 (Pro) and upgrading the extruder

>>1798723
Nylon requires high temperatures, almost certainly a heated (or at least insulated) enclosure, good bed adhesion, and good control of the melt zone/hot end temperature. Best of luck, but I don't think you'll get that combination of things with a "cheapish" printer, though I'd absolutely love to be proven wrong.

Got through the first print with the included filament.

Got through the first print with the included filament.

>>1798729
>natural ABS
Interesting, didn't think people still used that, thought it would all be either black, white, or grey by now.

>>1798730
I was told it was PLA and printed it with according settings.

>>1798731
Interesting, I've seen even less natural PLA prints. The ears look a little ridged but from what I can see past the fuzziness of the picture it's a decent print

For a flat thing that I want to get a lot of detail out of, would it be best if I print it on its side like this? I've seen some people print their stuff at an angle and I'm not sure what the rationale behind that is.

>>1798739
Yes, it'll be more detailed - I forget the maths behind it but the idea is that the change in slope is a lot more drastic in the in the Z or the X or Y, same-ish as why you want to print small round parts laying down and not standing on edge since you'll just get a chunky teardrop instead of a smooth cylinder

>>1798739
>>1798740
Also, you might want to try to print it so the bottom part is facing down and the top is as unsupported as possible while still being as vertical as possible; any downwards-facing parts will still suffer in quality and may droop or look weird

Recommended filament for .22 blank gun barrel? I've used PETG carbon with success but maybe there's something more durable. No exotic locally sourced PEEK/NYLON blend shit, I can't print that stuff.

>>1798712
no, most of the diy corexy are great.
make sure you can source all bom parts before you start ordering

>>1798760
PLA

I want to make my own filament out of PETE plastic bottles. I know I will need to add plasticizers and additives to lower the melting point and crystallinity of the plastic. Does anyone know what I need to add?

Are there any good touhou 3d models out there I can use on my printer?

>>1798767
You need to add the G my man

>>1798580
Have you checked what nozzle is in your settings and on printer?

>>1798148
These experiences make you better. It's never happened to me, but I've done stupider shit. I've touched the hot end of a soldering iron expecting it to be cold. Try again.

How long do you fellas think before we get affordable large format resin printers?
They're sub $2k right now but let's say affordable means sub $1k

Do you think that once that happens FDM will die the death it so rightly deserves?

>>1798799
Unless someone develops a resin that isn't so toxic, and resins that have high heat resistance and strength like polycarb, fdm will still go on.

>>1798799
resin a shit
t. mech eng

>>1798799
FDM won't die until SLS/DMLS printers become affordable and commonplace

>>1798801
resin a okay
t. mech eng
Elastic resins are great, so are the castable/wax ones, though for strength you're probably right

>>1798799
Isn't the limiting factor the screen? Don't you need like 8k+ for proper DPI to give good minimum resolution at larger buildplate sizes?
I don't know much about resin but it sounds like that would be the case, and if so, would unavoidably drive the price up a lot.

>>1798800
An extremely heat resistant resin would be revolutionary.

Then you could just quickly and painlessly create molds for nice strong, cheap, and common plastics.

>>1798808
Define "extremely". You can already do injection molding with some resins, if you set it up right, and arguably for *the* most common plastic (HDPE) you can make molds no problem, IIRC the max temp for that resin

>>1798801
>>1798805
Is resin really that much worse than e.g PLA?

>>1798810
In 90% of cases, no. It's just more expensive, most of the time, but the increased detail you can get is the tradeoff.

>>1798809
Stay stable for repeated prolonged temperatures around 200°C.

>>1798813
Done, here:

https://formlabs.com/store/high-temp-resin/

>>1798817
>200$
Damn, what a boner killer

>>1798821
Everything formlabs does is expensive.

>>1798810
yes

>>1798826
Have the Chinese copied their secret sauce yet?

i'm seeing a few ants, well they say if you have ants. you ain't got termites.

>>1798821
To be fair, if you can get a working mold for $200 and produce good quality plastic parts from it, that's already pretty massive compared to the cost of a normal industry injection mold.

>>1798760
ever wondered why gun barrels arenn't made of plastic?

>>1798760
Polycarb

>>1798841
Depends on how many parts you can get out of a single mold before it deteriorates.

You can get CNC'd aluminium parts from the Chinese pretty cheap these days. Less than a 100$ for simple stuff.

>spend hours fucking with print settings and hardware because the first layer consistently looks like shit
>it was bad pla

>>1798849
Ever wondered why the Liberator is made entirely of plastic, shoots actual cartridges (not blanks) and you should shut the fuck up?

>>1798885
Every wondered why it breaks after 4 shots?

>>1798866
It's bad PLA 99% of the time it's really fucking annoying. Thought I was getting random layer shifts but it was bad extrusion.

I've 3d printed most everything I wanted to 3d print, so what do I print now?
Also does anyone have any experience 3d printing a mold for like soap or wax? Or should I just 3d print a model and do negative casting with silicone?

>>1798886
That isn't my point, but sure.

>>1798817
>post curing required
This is probably going to be one of those really exotic resins that needs to cured at temperature in an ammonium atmosphere.

>>1798890
That's like asking what else you should put holes in now that you're done for the moment with your power drill. You don't have to print all the time anon.

>>1798890
storage/display/organization stuff for whatever you printed

>>1798068
Switch the stepper with one of the other steppers on your printer. If it still happens it is the driver or the board, most likely the driver. Check the voltage and adjust to the proper setting. If it is the board or stepper, replace them, buy two because it will happen again.

>>1798395
Do the paper test at each corner, adjust each corner so it slips with resistance. Repeat this process randomly picking a corner to test and adjust until they all have the same resistance.

is it save to overvolt a printer board? i want to run crank up PS voltage to 25v for more powerfull heating, mosfets would be ok with increased current but i dont know about the voltage regulator typically used

>>1798943
checked the schematics
the skr mini e3 1.2 can handle up to 29V as tmcs and regulators are rated up to ~30v
first thing to die are the (likely) 10A rated screw terminals, the rest is good to go.
Schematics look like the 20A ! fuse doesn't fuse bed, fan and hotend, only electronics. But this might be labeled wrong.

funfact. if the terminals are indeed 10A they are already undersized if both heaters are on at the same time. Can some EE anon tell me more? if they are higher rated i see no reason not to go 250W heat bed

>>1798866
this is why you always buy premium shit
you pay more but you get the guarantee that you wont have to play these fuck fuck games

Made this part for Ender 3
Get a load of it:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4278952

I got a gas mask filter adapter, 3M 6000 series to 40mm STANAG.

The end is nigh.

>>1798829
Frankly I think demand for Chinese products is going to plummet, if it hasn't already

>>1798841
1L worth of resin gets you a reasonably big mold, or a few smaller ones. It goes farther than most people think.

>>1798899
Nope, stick it in a heated chamber with some UV lights pointed at it for a couple of hours and you're good.

>>1798974
Do you have the model for that by chance? I've been wanting to print a plug for my 3M mask so I don't use both filters at the same time and can keep one stored and dry in the meantime, but I haven't gotten around to modeling it/finding a model.

>>1798504
when i ordered my cnc it took two weeks for them to ship it

>>1799025
There you go:
thingiverse.com/thing:2796484

and some more stuff you might be interested in:
thingiverse.com/thing:4196881

Youre going to need a gasket or the filter wont "clamp" properly, you can get replacement gasket from aliexpress or salvage one off a mask.

>>1799064
Excellent, thanks mate, just what I needed

>>1798799
The elegoo saturn should come out eventually. I imagine that it'll be sub $1k.

wanhao i3 (2 years old) broke again and my dad just offered to buy me new printer if it means not breaking so often and being easier to use. I use my printer a fuckload, should I just ask him for a prusa? They seem kinda overpriced to me. really I just want an i3 that never breaks and has auto bed leveling, heated bed, and direct drive. Are there any decent prusa clones? I've heard trianglelabs but the shipping is like 150$ to the US which makes it kinda not worth.

>>1798050
What is the best ~400mmx400mmx400mm printer around? I've been looking at the Xinkebot Orca2 Cygnus, but is there anything else around (that is at least American made)

This seems like the place to ask about ripping 3D models from Sketchfab. Is it possible? If so, how? There are some keen models there I'd love to DL for personal use, and the artist has been inactive for over 3 years. Any help would be great.

Guy who asked about TPU on an Ender here
I've got a calibration cube printing with some settings I've put together using SUnlu filament. The print hasn't gone tits-up yet, so we'll see how this goes.

>>1798810
It gives you really good detail at the trade off of being harder to work with, needs curing, and costs more for resin vs most filaments.
My brother's already bought a filament printer. Just to mess around with whilst he waits for his resin print to finish.
In the meantime with my printer I've made like 12 prints this week after setting mine up day 1.
I printed one of those fold-out collapsable baskets to hold my smaller prints in and to flex on my bro who's only printed like a pikachu, a starscream, a small usb holder and a bunch of failures.
I've been printing him parts for his printer because it doesn't take long.
Especially now I've got a good balance going on my white pla. 200c and 60 for the bed with a light layer of hairspray on the bed. I find, once you have the first couple layers down well most prints succeed. Some have gone weird later. Like I printed a plastic holder for a controller that literally just skipped a layer and went all birds nesty in places but I bet thats me setting an odd print angle or their being something weird going on with my filament. (It's anycubic white PLA)
I literally taped the two halves together and it still holds my 8bitdo controller.

Can someone inform me what these PID settings on my anet e16 actually do? I need to heat up my hot end faster.

I just got it out the box and the heating unit works but isn't Heating the hot end fast enough so the printer thinks it's having a temperature meltdown and ceases to operate it tells me to reset.
I replaced the temp sensor with a screw in. So that fine.

>>1799209
Also I think a big part of my issues was the retraction distance.
In the latest version of cura it set it to 6mm and I've done two prints so far and it's held up really well.

>>1798922
The trickiest part I found is that adjusting one corner heavily impacted the rest and there's a very fine sweet spot. So you need to check every corner and try to adjust in a way so you compensate for the other corners changes.

>>1799199
Success. However the bottom layer seems to have been bowed out by about 1mm and quickly tapers in in the following layers. WIll attempt actual print with same settings.
I need a spool adapter though.

My printer keeps making a line down the left side before printing and it's a cunt to get it off. WHat fucking setting is that?

>>1799283
that's cura's purge line, and it should be piss easy to remove
if it doesn't pop right off, your bed is too fucking high

>>1799259
Odd. The following print seems to be underextruding and my extruder is skipping. First attempt the nozzle was clogged. Now I seem to have been able to mitigate it by going to 40% flow.

>>1799308
Consider adjust your extruder pressure, Ninjaflex is a bitch to print because of that for me - I can pretty much pull it out by hand while it's being fed, it's so loose.

>>1799310
Turned out it was kinked in the extruder but still flowing lmao. This is odd.

>>1799311
Addendum; what confuses me is that it made it through an entire calibration cube without a fuss or hitch.

>>1799216
I would need to see a graph of your temp readouts to get a better idea of how to help you. But basically:
>p
Trade off between reaching target but being unstable for a while and steady state error
>I
Eliminates the stead state error, so you can reach target without large fluctuations
>D
Assists in making reaction to change quicker
Look up PID tuning methods, but I believe your D is what you need to change.

>>1799313
Not sure what was going on but as the print I'm doing has continued I've slowly ramped the feed rate back up and it seems to have improved, and even recovered the print after it exhibited underextrusion.
I can't wait to get a decent roll of PLA in to print instead of this stuff.

>cr10 v2 nozzle/head plate got modified
>can't fit petsfang mounting base anymore
Fuck, don't think the guy will ever design one, even when creality open-source the drawings.

>>1799318
Thx man

>>1798917
thanks for the advice man. the stepper has started behaving after i disassembled and reassembled the extrusion bits. i'll definitely try switching them if I have more problems in the future.

>>1798803
This.

>>1799216
Hook it up to your pc with an interface like pronterface or repetier host and PID autotune your hotend and bed. Look up a guide on how to do it, it's not hard. You should turn on the print cooling fan first. In the gcode command you specify the hotend, desired temperature and amount of passes (the amount of times the controller will try to reach a stable temp). More passes takes longer but will provide more accurate PID values. After doing its thing it'll spit out these values and you enter them with another gcode command. After that you save that shit to EEPROM. Done.

Don't enter random values into your PID menu btw.

>>1798799
Kek yeah, call again when 1L of resin is sub 20$ and I don't have to wear fucking gloves + biohazard mask to print a benchy

>>1799457
>1kg sub $20
Close enough
>don't have to wear PPE to handle resin
Stop licking your fucking hands, the pretty colours aren't edible, retard. As long as you're in a well-ventilated room and don't dip your hands in it you're fine.

why is no one talking about this

Is there a decent repositroy for paid for .stls?
Ya know...without paying for them?

>>1799465
Because the chamber can't be heated and it will be pretty expensive while still having shitty v-rollers so whats the point?
Just a get a CR-10 pro and throw it in a box.

>>1799469
Would anyone really do that? Just steal files?

>>1799471
Nothing would get stolen, files would just be shared

>>1798803
It will never become commonplace.

Can you imagine a high power CO2 laser in every high school? Not gonna happen.
It will never be cheap enough and it will always be a huge liability.

Why are large format resin printers so expensive anyway?
Initially I thought the lcd would be the biggest cost but you can go on aliexpress and buy a 15.6 inch 4k display for less than 100 dollarydoos

Machining the rest of the hardware probably costs a chunk but scaled up won't break the bank.
Is it the UV LEDs?

Is it cheating to use a hot air station to remove stringing and clean up your prints if you're using cheap Aldi filament?

>>1799465
>every 60 seconds in china, creality releases 60 printers
If it has an all metal hotend and specs that can print PC I'll forgive creality for their 99 mistakes, if they can not fuck up the potential of things once.
>>1799470
I imagine the heat the head and the plate generate would be the "heating source".
>>1799469
>he doesn't know

>>1799486
>I imagine the heat the head and the plate generate would be the "heating source"

Would not help much.
What you want is a heat controllable environment which is able to hold an exact process temperature. That way you can print ABS at eg. 80°C ambient and Nylon at 75°C ambient. Otherwise your ambient temp would just be "somewhere" and give you non repeatable results.

>>1799503
honestly these insulated enclosures are good enough unless you're using your 3D printer out in the arctic or something

>>1799505
I think this is what he's talking about, the "good enough" approach creality have, it always seems like they fall 1 step too short of getting a product from good enough, to great.

>>1799505
>80$
cardboard for me

Instead of telling me they were sold out of filament, the store I a bunch of spools from a couple weeks ago to test their whole range decided to fudge the tracking and blame it on the post office having the corona.
It didn't occur to me that's what they were doing so I figured they were just ripping me off, so I gave up and placed an even bigger order with some other guys, figuring I'd chargeback later.

Welp I guess they did eventually send it since both orders turned up today so now I have so many spool

>>1799486
>Aldi filament
>Go to print something
>Filament's snapped near the extruder
every time

>>1799571
It only snaps for me if I put it under stress that would I would think would make any filament snap. When I was using someones ender 3 I noticed it snapping in the middle of the ptfe tubing, but in my cr10 I haven't ever had that issue.

How much stringing do you get? Running a hot air gun over the strings quickly makes them disappear almost completely, but I'm at the stage where I've done so much testing I refuse to believe it's anything other than the filament.

>print filament guide
>after one roll there's a bloody groove worn down in the guide
bloody...
guess i'll print one of the bearing based ones or something that rotate

>>1799591
>drill 4mm hole in idler arm
>insert short piece of left over bowden tube
at least thats how all good extruders do it and theres no high pitch squeek

>>1799594
>bowden tube piece
shit that's a great idea, I'll see if I can fix it into my guide
it might actually fit great

>>1799486
Please anon-kun show me how to be a cool pirate like you uwu

>>1799571
>aldi filament
>fails

>>1799571
Aldi sells filament?
Süd or Nord?

>>1799591
This is the one I'm using, no issues with squeaking/sawing so far.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3680006

>>1799655
Oh, that's neat. I don't have any bearings on hand so this is actually a quite convenient design.

>>1799674
I recommend looping a small o-ring/rubber band around the wheel like the description mentions, so that the filament doesn't just slide across it.
Also, there are actually files for 3D-printed bearings that work well enough for what they are, but I haven't found any filament guides that used bearings of the same size.

>>1799691
Yeah, it's not a high load part so I suppose some lube will work. I have some I used to lube keyboards at some point somewhere, if I end up needing to.
A rubber band is a good idea, I think I have some about the right size somewhere.
Overall it does look really neat and much better than what I have (which is one of those arms that extend out from the top horizontal beam). I'll have to print it sometime.

>>1799693
>one of those arms that extend out from the top horizontal beam
I actually use one of those in combination with the wheel guide.

>>1799697
That's the one that has a groove in it, though. So I'm thinking of just removing it outright.

just move the spool holder

>>1799706
but muh desk(/floor) space

I think some structural supports were printed inside the purple pipe where it enters the orange pipe.
What can i do to remove it aside from breaking the thing open?

>>1799711
print a drill bit with the same angles and drill it out

>>1799711
maybe you could use a jewellers saw blade and cut them out

>>1799711
Oh my god I forgot to make the fucking hole in the orange

>>1798887
Wait, how do I know if I have bad PLA?

>TFW your printing a headphone stand and your base triangle support layer is so dense you actually have to chisel it off to get to the actual part encased inside.
Amazing how using a later version of cura massively altered how supports work.
Before they were too weak with a v3 of Cura, and now with 4.6 beta they are real strong. This stand will be sturdy once its glued and screwed together. Could possibly be used as a club.

Hey guys, does anyone know of a way to fix the warp in these prints? It seems like the layers within ~2mm of the bed are contracting and leading to warp. Tried printing single-extrusion boxes and the effect is pretty noticeable there. You can see the shape it creates at the tip of the parts.
Could it be crappy PLA? I'm using whatever came with the printer.
This is regular PLA, printed at 215/60C on a makergear m3, 0.2mm layer resolution, 30% infill.
I'm thinking of lowering the bed temp to 45C after the first few layers are down.

>>1799756
I should've mentioned: The parts should be parallel. The outer side of the parts was contacting the bed; They are curving with the concave part towards the build plate.

>>1799758
>They are curving with the concave part towards the build plate.
so you dont have good adhesion on part of the plate, make sure the bed is flat. does it change if you print them in a different position?
e.g. print them along the edges and not in the middle

>>1799759
>>1799759
>Bed adhesion
The parts were hard to remove. Can this happen even when the prints are well adhered?
>move them around
The print is taking most of the space of the build plate (they're about 8" wide by 8" tall, I've got a 8"x9.5" build plate.
>bed level
Leveled the bed to 0.01mm before starting, but now that I'm done it does seem like the check came out to 0.06, and the second part looks worse than the first...

Thanks anon. Any other suggestions? like I said I noticed this with single-extrusion boxes on a perfectly level bed too. They have this funny shape where the first layer is wide, then the next 5 or so layers are shrunk like shrink tubing, then the rest of the print is normal.

anyone know where i can get design work/prottyping work done? i dont have a printer or have design exp but know exactly what i want done

>>1799767
>know exactly what i want done
what is it that you want done?

>>1799810
a redesign of a stamped piece of metal

>>1799811
since im not a mind reader could you post a pic or give just a little more than a sentence fragment?

>>1799766
>bed level
i said flat, not level

>>1799833
Bed is borosilicate. Should be pretty flat unless I need to switch to fused quartz.

>>1799831

>>1798541
I did this but the paper just slides all over when printing.

>>1799847
here ya go, all fixed

>>1799713
lost

>>1799847
your welcome

>>1799767
>I dont know how to do it but want it done but dont want to put in effort or buy new things
This is called hiring a subcontractor.

>>1799847
Why the fuck do you need a receiver endcap redesigned

Interested in getting started in 3d printing. Want a kit as I'm furloughed from work so will give me something to tinker on. Also don't want it to be too expensive.

Thoughts on this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184190869449

Have seen a few review videos. Know I will need to print a few upgrades for it, and add a spring tensioner for the filament at the extruder.

But quite happy with the level of printing it can produce for the price. Mainly just a time sink for me.

Does anyone have any experience or thoughts that may help?

EVERY ONE CAN I HAVE YOUR ATTENTION
thank you

>>1799756
>>1799758
>>1799766
>parts were hard to remove
So are you saying that despite being 100% adhered to the build plate after printing (and, therefore, essentially flat,) there are stresses built up in the plastic that cause it to bow inward on the side touching the bed, after it is removed from the bed?

Anyone know of a 3D-printed face shield design compatible with baseball caps?
My workplace is making us wear them now, but the ones they handed out make it difficult to wear my hat at the same time.

>>1799847
>>1799849
>>1799852
kek i knew this was going to go nowhere not sure why i went with it anyway

>>1799855
no shit
>>1799858
reasons

>>1799879
>kek i knew this was going to go nowhere not sure why i went with it anyway
Dumb questions get dumb answers

>>1799477
>not gonna happen
>huge liability
Have you already forgotten about shop and culinary classes of the 20th century? Where you could just go into a room in the school and get access to a variety of (often pretty dangerous) power tools, or blades and sharp objects of all kinds?

>>1799879
I was all in to help but you're gonna be all secret squirrel with it
Put some useful info you actually want help

>>1799767
Shapeways

>>1799477
It was 10 years ago, but my high school had a table saw and a band saw in its woodshop class, both of which could easily cause loss of life and limb.

>>1799477
My science teacher liked to drop massive chunks of raw potassium into water for fun. And had like Bunsen burners all over the room. You could open any random cupboard in the room, even the ones under the desks and find one in there. Like 100 in a 30 kid classroom.
You underestimate how little some schools give a damn about safety and how oversupplied they can be. In woodwork shops as a kid my teacher was like "Here. Make a wooden mold out of this block of wood with these industrial grade tools we conveniently have around the classroom and then put it into this expensive plastic forming vacuum machine and then put some LEDs in it wired to a 9v battery. Then after that practice some soldering with a full-sized soldering iron"

>>1799621

>>1799923
Ahhh the good old days
You know they dont even have shop classes in a lot of schools these days, no wonder we buy everything from china
We did foundry and sand casting in freshman year metal shop, shit was cool af

what would cause a print to come out like steel wool? very fluffy and completely not stuck toghether

>>1799928
post pics or gtfo

>>1799930
>>1799929
>>1799928

>>1799927
Sadly, despite the school having a history of amazing Design Tech, Food Tech, (yes the school had a classroom full of cookers and cooking equipment too) and Science grades they decided to rebrand and reinvest the school into being a performing arts school.
So they had an entire new block built with:
>Soundproof room
>Recording equipment
>A room full of expensive Casio keyboards
>Theatre rooms with curtains and shit
>two computer labs
>Expanded library which was almost like a miniature public lending library which is crazy considering its a school. Not a college or university. A school.

>>1799930

>>1799930
what material?
print temp settings?

>>1799932
Sounds like a good place to pickup a participation trophy

>>1799942
esun PLA+, 210C nozzle and 60C for the bed
I've been printing at these temps for a while now and not had this issue

>>1799923
You sound like a fucking coward.

>>1799928
partial clog
wrong e-steps
wrong nozzle diameter set

>>1799477
People are turning laser cutters into SLS tools. Those may never work as well as a dedicated machine, but my point is that there should be no problem as long as everything is a class 1 laser tool. Not like you're going to have highshoolers aligning the beam.

>>1799875
Yep.
Actually, I found an article that shows the exact same thing
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-prints-warping-why-it-happens-and-how-to-prevent-it
Looks like my bed is too hot (70C for PLA)

In a little bit I'll post a photo of my single extrusion test prints.

>>1799951
>partial clog
it was this
i heated up the extruder and stuck a needle up it, i felt something a little solid and after pressing on it i felt a bowel movement and it immediately shat out a bunch of stuff

>>1799981
>as everything is a class 1 laser tool.
>class retard fucks with the door interlock
>10 people sunburn their lense in an instant

>>1800009
>thinking it's anybody else's problem that they're so stupid so as to look at active lasers
Either you practice proper safety precautions and check that everything's in place and functioning properly or don't use the tool. The door interlock should not be the ONLY thing preventing harm or damage, the thing shouldn't even be on if there's a chance a stray beam could de-eye someone

>>1800009
Mate, if we push the bar down to the lowest common denominator, all you will achieve is poor results for everyone else. How is it possible to do this>>1799922 then?

Anyway, not the time or place for that kind of discussion, so that's the last I'll say.

>>1800039
liability wise eye damage is on the level of killing someone.
thats the difference

>>1800009
Eh I was agreeing with the others but this is a pretty good argument actually

>>1800039
It's not about the lowest common denominator in this case. The world isn't a poorer place for the class retard sawing a couple of his own fingers off, and the odds of that retard causing the sawing of someone else's fingers off is drastically lower.
In the case of lasers, that lowest denominator could potentially flash multiple people just as easily as himself.

I dunno where you draw the line here, because enough stupidity can substitute for maliciousness and you could hypothetically gas a whole class in a chemistry lab too. But eye damage is scary and laser safety is treated pretty categorically so not a hard sell for it to be an exception.

Going back to the original argument though I wouldn't say "never". Education is a big market for printers and with sufficient motivation I'm sure retard-proofing is possible.

>>1799875
>>1799981

Here are the test prints. Bottom is with the bed at 70, top is at 55. You can clearly see the extent of annealing due to the heat from the bed.

For my next print, I'll set the first layer at 70 for adhesion, then the rest at 55. Let's see how that turns out.

Has anyone used this site? They are selling an Ender 3 for 179, it is a good price?

https://www.creality3d.shop/products/creality-ender-3-3d-printer-economic-ender-diy-kits-with-resume-printing-function-v-slot-prusa-i3-220x220x250mm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6KHPuu3u6AIViMhkCh0Pmw01EAkYASABEgKCz_D_BwE

Why is it that when I load the same file into both cura and makerbot, the model is 1.3mm larger in one dimension in cura?

>>1800058
>In the case of lasers, that lowest denominator could potentially flash multiple people just as easily as himself.
That is a good point. Certainly something to consider.

>I wouldn't say "never"
Might be daydreaming here, but what if we keep the class retard away from the laser? Doesn't everyone usually know who the class retard is?
Or maybe put enough interlocks in there such that the class retard is too retarded to defeat them all.

>>1799477
arent co2 lasers on their way out?
give it 10 years, all cheap shit will be diode pumped fiber.
thats actually scary, afaik co2 wavelength doesnt penetrade the eye and can only fuckup your lense (which is a swapable part), making it one ofthe safer kind of laser.

>>1800063
don't print those things standing up dude

>>1800039
>>1800058
>>1800064
Something to keep in mind is that school shops, by definition, are filled with greenhorns that don't know what they're doing. Heightened safety makes sense under those conditions, especially when they're only there to learn and their productivity doesn't matter.

Made some custom fuel line clips to accommodate for the pressure line cooler on my nitro RC car. Utilitarian looking but perfect for the job.

>>1800074
Too tall and skinny? I'd like to conserve space on the build plate so I can do it in one shot, because I don't know how many I need yet. But I can do multiple runs if that'll result in a better print

>>1800064
>Might be daydreaming here, but what if we keep the class retard away from the laser? Doesn't everyone usually know who the class retard is?
What if it's the teacher?
I had plenty of teachers who'd constantly forget to lock up rooms or leave shit lying around.
They all were also extremely inept with technology. I wouldn't trust them to run a 3d printer properly, much less a DMLS.

>>1800080
they're going to be too weak and be utterly worthless

>>1800079
The clips outside the car to show what they actually look like.

>>1800080
If you encased them in supports, they'd probably print alright. But you also have to bear in mind that the Z-axis is the weakest in FDM prints. Depending on what you intend to use these parts for, you might not want those legs to snap off at the layer seams.

>>1799950
You misinterpret what I mean by recounting the memory of my school. I think it was good kids had access to proper craft tools, and that, if a school wanted to, they can still invest in expensive equipment and design a very rigourous safety process to minimalise injury.
But as you can see by my later post the school moved away from that into safer things. I blame societies changing values away from learning life skills and overprotective parents for that. Little Timmy cuts of the tip of his finger off on a hacksaw because he wasn't careful enough and his parents are now out for blood and might sue the school and win.
Also my science teacher was that fun kind of mad. Instead of teaching the curriculum he'd spend the day telling stories about all the dumb science stuff he did before the school forced him to tame everything down including one time he set his own bushy eyebrows on fire because he was bored.
I kind of wish I spent more time doing DT stuff when I was younger but I suppose the school didn't want to run a DT club because of its constant risk.
It would not surprise me at all if I went back to the school now and that entire area has been repurposed for something else.

>>1800079
Nice job but they look pretty fucking close to the exhaust, I'm not an expert on nitro rc cars but they might warp from the heat

>>1799863

Anyone?

>>1800126
Buy an ender

>>1800077
Yeah that's certainly true in principle but I think most of us remember how little safety and supervision there actually was beyond lip service.
It's not just a matter of doofuses and accidents: boys are big fans of playing chicken and will actively put themselves in near-danger for fun, which is better where you have more of a safety buffer between fucking up a little and permanent damage. Slipping up here is a different matter from things we all remember kids doing like deliberately aiming laser pointers at one another or staring at the sun or testing the table saw safety stop with their penises.

My prints keep failing on the 3rd or 4th layer
They're perfect on the bottom, then they become progressively worse. it always ends up with the piece not being under the extruder and the extruder extruding into the air
why might this happen?

>>1800148
Is your extruder gear slipping? You may have a nozzle blockage.

>>1800151
how would i unblock it? i tried sticking the needle up it and that seemed to release some pressure, a few blobs came out
but the problem persists

>>1800152
In that case yeah, you have a blockage. Assuming you have a printer that doesn't have an all metal hotend (ptfe tube goes all the way to the bottom and sits against the nozzle). Unscrew the coupling, take out the ptfe tube, and remove the coupling. Check the ptfe tbe for damage. More than likely what's happened is your coupling has damaged your ptfe tube, and now it's sliding back and forth, and not sitting flush.

>>1799848
What? You print with paper? You need paper just to set a distance between nozzle and bed. Thickness of paper=distance between nozzle and bed

>>1799848

Post your:
>Favorite company
>Least favorite company
>A company or printer you're interested in
>Your reasoning for the above

>>1800174
>Favorite company
My own hands.
>Least favorite company
Stratasys
>A company or printer you're interested in
The diy CoreXY designs
>Your reasoning for the above
I'm straight.

>>1800174
Prusa
Don't know, only ever used prusa
Prusa i3 Mk3S
I bought a prusa

Long shot, but has anyone compared the differences between Fiberlogys easy petg and regular petg? The reviews for their regular petg seem pretty good. The reseller in my country isn't responding, so they sent me their catalogue and corpo prices are pretty decent, shipping is where I'll get killed but I'll see how things go. Might grab a couple rolls as I'll likely never get another chance to purchase straight from them.

>>1799863
At best you'll end up spending more than the piece of shit cost getting it running right, at worst, a house fire.

>>1800181
based

>>1799863
>>1800126
Looks like a clone or unbranded version of an Anet A8.

It's a popular kit, you can find a ton of reviews and info on them.

>>1800210

Thanks for your reply.

Iv watched a couple build videos and think it looks alright for the cost. Wouldn't be leaving it running overnight so fire I wouldn't be too worried about.

>>1799628
Australian

>>1800216
Yeah found a fair few videos on it and other very similar ones that seem to just have different brand names.

For the price it's just something to tinker with. Then if I enjoy it I can sell and get a better one.

Thanks for your reply.

Turned a switch tester into a macro keyboard and printed a case for it.

>>1800224
Looking through the acrylic the pins don't seem to be touching anything, or am I mistaken?
Also are those gats or cherry?

>>1800225
They're soldered on the opposite side of the pin, to the purple wires.
Cherries.
https://www.banggood.com/12-Key-Cherry-Switch-Keyboard-Switch-Tester-with-Acrylic-Base-and-Clear-Keycaps-p-1422479.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

>>1800227
Ah yeah now I see it. I still get annoyed at the gateron switch testers that have 3 types of similar stem and spring in 3 different housings. I'm at the point where I almost don't know what cheap switches to get other than gat yellows. After using thick click bars I can't stand jackets, and even before using zealios I thought browns were a linear when I first tried them. Are there any there that surprised you?

Also I should ask what filament I guess.

>>1800228
I don't know that much about mechanical switches, I have cherry mx browns on my keyboard and wanted to try clears because they sounded better on paper (they are).
Also wanted to hear what blues sound like.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/pastel-green-pla-premium-3d-printer-filament-1-75mm-1kg-spool.html?queryID=ae6944a53ca0d9930b9005f1795d4ccc&objectID=78307&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

>>1798050
Is it safe to set up a 3d printer in my bedroom? I've looked around for answers but I get varying results

>>1800233
If you only print PLA it's fine.

>>1800233
Maybe have the window open? PLA still produces particulates, but they aren't toxic I believe. ABS/resin printing you better have good health cover.

just ordered an ender 3 and i was wondering if anyone here has a recommendation on a website to buy filament from or just any specific brands to go with through amazon.

>>1800244
What country and what budget? From the outset don't get cheap generic filament without the advice of don't bother trying to perfect it by tuning your printer.

>>1800239
>PLA still produces particulates
It produces very little.
A lit candle produces more particulates than PLA.

>>1800248
US, budget is somewhere between $20-$40 per KG, but thats flexable.

>>1800264
Typical cheaper brands like eSun should be well within your budget, but still have good quality.
Matterhhackers/hatchbox is probably above eSun.
Finally, if you can get prusament do it.
I hate shilling that brand but it's more or less the truth, even if the advantages may in some cases be more theoretical.

>>1798050

Just seeing if WEBM's work on DIY. Plz ignore

>>1800239
is abd actually toxic (beyond just being smelly)?
>>1800228
gat yellow or box white basically, for linear or clicky respectively
all tactile switches are garbage unless you shell out
>>1800229
box whites are strictly superior to all blues

>>1800269
What advantages can you even get when it comes to PLA? What would prusament have over something like esun or sunlu?
I can imagine really cheap filament being wound improperly, being fucked up chemically and snapping/clogging/not printing well, having variable thickness, or something. But I've never seen that happen with $20+/kg filaments, and if you don't have any of that, what else is there to improve?

>>1800081
Yeah, but teachers you can fire and sue. Well... at least you should be able to.
This does remind me of the time when the chemistry teacher had us make chlorine with no containment of any sort. We lived.

>>1800176
So, why does everyone hate on stratasys? Is it the patents?

>>1800301
>is abs actually toxic (beyond just being smelly)?
talking about "short" periods, not 10 hours each day.
the styrol fumes not really
you might get red eyes or a itchy nose but the absorbed styrol gets flushed out by the kidneys, so no long term damage
generally ASA is a bit better in terms of toxicity than ABS at a minor higher price
>>1800249 is right, a lit candle, a laser printer or standing 10 minutes in the city is likely more toxic than printing ABS
>>1800302
Europe / US produced has to provide a safety and sometimes material datasheet. For sunlu i dont know anything but "PLA" "PLA+"
If its written down it will likely stay similar between batches
Buy whatever the fuck you want, but for consistency thats a big reason

Is it worth buying the MK3S kit? What about the Ender 5 Plus? Which one would you choose? I can afford either one but obviously the less I spend the better. I really don't want a printer to break down often so I don't know if that is trade off I'm getting if I were to get the Ender. I plan to use this as an added service to an existing business I provide so my time is money.

>>1800121
Yeah, they’re close to the exhaust because they have to be in order to fit under the body. These are just basic PLA for the prototype but I have some Taulman 910 to make the real deal ones.

>>1800174
>Favorite
Prusa
>least favorite
Toss up between Makerbot and Stratasys
They're the same thing now though anyway
>Interested in
Honestly, nothing but Chinese companies comes to mind, and not for good reasons
>Reasoning for the above
Out of all the printers I've worked with, Prusas have been the most hassle-free. I've owned 3 printers and been in charge of maintenance for probably over a dozen and they've caused the least amount / more easily solved problems. Stratasys is just shit, I imagine most people know about the Thingiverse copyright debacles, overpriced Makerbot hardware and such, but the Stratasys machines I've had the misfortune of working with are slow, loud, way too hot, have a limited amount of changes you can make to the slicing configuration, and break WAY too often for them to be as "reliable" as people say they are, plus the material costs an ass-ton and don't get me started on the service costs/user-friendliness

>>1800335
Oh, thought of one:
>Company or printer
Formlabs. Expensive but from what I've seen, pretty worth the price if you can afford it. Good quality prints with their clear resin, at least. Will be interesting to see how the Fuse and 3L will come along.

>>1800306
That too, but see my post above

>>1800335
>overpriced Makerbot hardware and such,
Glad I decided against getting one of them.

> I imagine most people know about the Thingiverse copyright debacles
Care to elaborate? I'm not plugged into the 3dp news

>>1800335
>>1800371
And related to that I guess, any alternatives to grabcad/thingiverse?

>>1800310
If you've got the money and want it to work might as well go with the MK3S

>>1800372
Apart from PrusaPrinters, nothing that's not ad-infested, slow, not a simple scraper, or doesn't have even more of a garbage interface, unfortunately.

>>1800371
About to take off for a while so I'll elaborate later if anyone else hasn't by then, but tl;dr is people uploaded designs to Thingiverse and expected to keep their IP (which is reasonable and the way it's supposed to be done), Makerbot stole the designs and put them into commercial production hardware without notifying the creator, and then pretty much said "lol fuk u this is our site we do what we want" when confronted about them violating the licenses the models were uploaded with, resulting in an exodus of users. I think it was 5-6 years ago.

>>1800310
>MK3S vs Ender 5 Plus
Buy the MK3S kit.
>added service to an existing business
>time is money
DEFINITELY get the MK3S if you can afford it. We've got 4 of the things at work now because of the ease of use/uptime they provide.

>>1800383
makerbot filed a patent, which peeps thought was of an uploaded design. I remember looking up the patant application at the time and is was a different invention entirely, but people are teh dumb.

>>1798395
YOU NEEED TO PUT MORE GLUESTICK ON !!!1

>>1800415
i no need glue for anything

joke aside, the ender plate works fantastic but i will trash it soon and get myself a FR2 plate for DAT SCHMOOOS TOP

>>1800410
link?

Wanted to buy the MK3S on credit..... But I only have American Express and Discover..... Fuck. Does anyone know of a way around this? I have a MasterCard that I rarely use but it only has $130 on it lmao.

>>1800383
Yeah, that's one of my main concerns whenever anything is hosted on some online service. Really shitty of them to pull that. I've read the TOS in GrabCAD and it has language suggesting that they cannot use user designs for their own profit, but if they do, who's going to hold them to it?

Maybe the future is everyone having their own repositories.

>>1800445
https://boingboing.net/2014/05/30/whats-the-story-with-the-mak.html

Whats a quality guide for sheet metal in F360?

first ever 3d print, looks bretty gud
why did no one tell me how long this shit takes (6 hours)

>>1800536

What layer height?

>>1800537
I think it was 0.1mm

Put me in the thread OP

>>1800536
Larger layer heights print faster, if you don't actually need the additional quality offered by small layer heights. 0.2mm is pretty standard for regular prints.
Overall, while a few hours to print one object could be seen as slow, consider that all you have to do is set the printer to work and wait, and in return you get the ability to manufacture any physical object you want, straight from raw materials, with just a single tool.

>>1800544
do you think the time for the print is suprisingly high?
the file came with the printer and it had 3.5H in its name so I would think it should take 3.5 hours
maybe the speed isnt set correctly

>>1800547
For 0.1mm layer height, 6 hours doesn't sound too outrageous.
I'd bet more money on the chinks being idiots and naming the file with the incorrect time or using a slicer that estimated the incorrect time for them, personally.
I don't think speed is handled by the printer itself anyway, aside from using the tuning menu mid-print. Generally the slicer puts speed-related stuff in the gcode.

>>1800547
Not that guy, but for me print time estimates are pretty crude and tend to underestimate. I've started collecting data to make a better model.

I want to 3d print a mold
in this I want to cast silicone
has anyone here ever tried this
do you think I could cast a fleshlight??

>>1800560
i've done a silicone mold for metal casting, but printing a mould for a fleshligh isn't unheard of. you can even find .stl for moulds on thingiverse

where to get lewd figurines to print??

>>1800061
>"Has anyone used this site?"
>It's the fucking Creality site itself

>>1800617
that's the fake creality website retard

Speaking of particulates and offgassing, what standard of filter would it require to actively remove them from an enclosure?

>>1800301
>is abs toxic
People often get headaches from it, and there's an saying that burning abs produces Hydrogen Cyanide. Some people say it does, others say it doesn't, take it with a grain of salt.
>>1800302
the varying thickness and guarantee of no knots is the main advantage. eSun has a tolerance of 0.05mm, which means going from one extreme of the tolerance to the other can get you an 11% difference in mass fed to the nozzle. With prusament and fiberlogy, the tolerance is 0.02mm, and the extremes difference goes down to ~4.5%. Also with prusament they let you see the spools data, which is neat.

>>1800061
Fake site. Those guys used to have their contact email as a fucking gmail account.
>>1800617
perfect image for you

>>1800621
P100

>>1800626
That's it?

Found out today that the money I'll save with printing movement trays for Age of Sigmar will pay for my 3D printer by itself, nevermind all of the terrain and other cool shit I've been printing.

New Thread: >>1800654

>>1800458
Try contacting them directly through the chat, maybe they can set up some deal with you, I dunno. Or see if you can get an $800 gift card somehow.

>>1800560
>has anyone tried this
Yes, with decent results
>cast
Yeah, probably. either make your own model or find one on thingiverse like the other anon said

>>1798140
I did not print that. Sorry for late reponse

>printing in FDM

>>1800547
Print time is like windows time: completely disconnected from reality.

>>1799143
Die faggot
>>1799465
Chinese faggot,stop chilling for this chink shit

>>1802208
buy a prusa