/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Just cleaned 100lbs of cast iron out of machine's cabinet. Finally finished with this round of castings. Scrubbed the walls and door rails, stoned the table and cleaned the windows. Ready to move on to next job.

>no work lined up yet.
>Owner and op manager going to Japan for a week.

I sense a lot more cleaning in my near future...

>>1766019

Cast iron machines nice, but god is it dirty.

>>1766023
I remember my first time running cast iron.

>This stuff cuts great, I don't see why people complain about cast iron.
>Finish job and have to clean machine for next set up.
>Ah, this is why people complain about cast iron...

It's like taking a shit after a taco bell binge, no matter how much you wipe it still doesn't feel clean.

>>1766019
time for some personal projects?

whew that's a chip

Sometimes it's nice to have a fuck off day where the parts are simple and the tools work just right.

Tfw you will mever make chips like this...

>>1766489

>>1766502
Is that for a battleship gun? Looks like a built-up profile.

>>1766527
Yup

>>1766551
Apprentice here, how would they bore that?

>>1766502
I want to see him bore that...

>>1766660
With a very large boring bar?

>>1766670
Oh epic I didn't know there was nothing to consider in an operation that large other than 'make tool larger'

>>1766660
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwKM0t7ctXs

>>1766671
an enormous boring head like >>1766672

>>1766057
hey thats just like the garolite ive been machining this week except it doesnt stain and my throat hurts

>>1766551
>>1766502
Jesus Christ. I bet those lathes are still being used somewhere.

>>1766705
Probably should wear a dust mask while machining that shit. I know we have a special machine in the back that has a dust collector and vacuum system and it only machines pcb and glass

These collet nuts with the bearings in them are pretty great.

huh I didn't even think about using a micro reamer, apparently they make tiny reamers too

purple chips?

https://www.instagram.com/p/B8elkrFn7ha/

>>1766748
They make tiny everything.
>tfw touching off .02" endmills

>>1766752
That's what the little block with a taper machined into it is for, offline measurement with a height gauge

but even then, I feel your pain.

>>1766760
I just use super thin paper. Like phone book thin.

>>1766751
What kinda steel?

>>1766767
I have no idea, was hoping someone here would know.

>>1766774
If it's not stainless steel that kind of color is fine. It's actually just a tiny bit on the cold side, he could cut a little faster.

>>1766752
Yeah, I've seen shops with laser measurements for that.

so I had to sand some wooden dowels on the metal lathe today. I put a trash bag down which kept shit off the ways and the carriage, but the chuck got totally covered in sawdust. should I take it apart and clean it now? what about the spindle?

>>1766709
I think it's actually impossible to make replacement parts for the iowa's exploded turret because those lathes don't exist anymore.

>>1766811
>those lathes don't exist anymore
I bet machines exist that could be used.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/62863089

Any idea if these things are worthwhile? Better than buying a long length endmill every time you need more reach?

>>1766832
>$110
You'd be better off just buying long reach tool holders. That thing is all the drawbacks of shrink fit with none of the benefits.

>>1766839
It's $85 after you log in.

And a long length end mill is going to be like $80 more.

>>1766843
You also need a $??? machine to use it.

>>1766845
Oh yeah the shrink fit machine, really you can DIY that part.

>>1766839
Oh I just realized you said tool holders, not tools.

Well the ER taper is built into the spindle on my live tool holders, I can't imagine $2000+ for a new live tool holder would be cost effective by comparison.

I need to put a shoulder on a threaded part that doesn't have one now. what is the best way to do it? I was thinking about pinning a sleeve on but I don't know if that will be rigid enough.

>>1767254
weld? press fit and pin?

press fit, pin and weld?

>>1767327
ideally it would be non-permanently attached. I don't know if pinning in one place would be enough though. I could pin in 2 places or I could thread one section of it and have the sleeve thread on and then pin in place.

i finally made and ran a program. however, the results weren't as good as i expected. I had one pass in parallel mode because that left the best finish down the middle of the part, and then another pass contouring around the edges. however, the second pass didn't actually remove any material. It ran the contour and didn't cut any material.

Also fusion 360 put the origin as the center of the part and I have no idea how to change that.

>>1767457
in the setup change wcs origin to stock box point or model box point then click the point (corner) from one of the ones now visible on the model.

>>1767457
if the contour took a cut in the simulation but not in the machine then you have the tool modeled wrong or the length wrong or something.

Someone please help me understand the problem I'm having with some parts I started on today.

Part is 3/8" thick A36 steel plate and the feature in question is a 1/2-14 NPT hole. I keep ending up with broken threads. Rigid tapping. Happens when tapping to full depth, peck tapping, and when just starting the threads and finishing them by hand. Have tried using both flood coolant and tapping oil. Hole is chambered before tapping. No matter what I try I keep getting garbage threads. I'm tempted to blame the mystery meat A36 but I feel there has to be something I'm not understanding going wrong.

>>1767647
hole size right?

I've actually not done pipe threads on a CNC but I can't imagine there are too many things to go wrong...

Wait you're breaking the tap even when tapping by hand? Chamfered before tapping?

Well shit, maybe try drilling and tapping some holes in a scrap piece until you get it right. Try drilling the holes larger too.

>>1767648
Hole size is ten thou larger than 45/64 if i remember correctly. Whatever the chart says plus ten thou i added after the first time it happened thinking it would help the tap not to work so hard.

The tap did not break, the threads are tearing out. I took the tap out and examined It and it is sharp and missing no teeth and has a standard lead. I'm pretty lost.

>>1767653
if the threads are tearing out then the thread cycle must have the wrong pitch..

>>1767653
hmm perhaps tapping too deep?

>>1767655
Tapping at 126 rpm and 9ipm.

>>1767653
left/right handed???

>>1767660
feedrate override during tapping cycle screw it up?

>>1767662
Threads look fine until I get past .7" deep. Then they start to crack and chip away.

>>1767656
Have to bring the threads to gauge depth, which is around .9"

>>1767661
Right hand threads


It happened to 5 of the 6 plates I've done so far out of an order of 10 pieces. First piece went great. Tapped to .5", then edited program to take me to .75 and ran the tool again, then once more to final depth. Threads intact and gauged well.
On the second piece I went right to .75 since the tap seemed to make it to .5 with no difficulty. At least 1/4 of the thread is just broken and missing.
Tried again using a peck tapping cycle going to .5 then to .7 then to .8 and then to .9 trying to mimic the results of the first piece. Again. Threads are broken and missing.
Last tried just starting the threads to .5 and finishing by hand. Looked great at .5, but got the same results after hand tapping to depth. All the while using a usually very effective cutting oil.
My only thoughts are maybe it has something to do with the material. Or since it's a tapered thread so there's a lot more force to cutting than a straight thread and the A36 just doesn't handle the pressure in the same way a more malleable or ductile material might...

I'd like to figure out the problem before doing the last 4, but as for these I'm probably going to need to cut out the threads and then press fit a cold roll plug into the hole and then tap again into that. Then for the next time see if the customer can accept some HRS1018 or something instead of A36.

>>1767674
Well I have no idea, hope you get it figured. Try some tap magic if you can find it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7miJLd6PsEQ

>>1767529
Thanks. I didn't even realize that was an option.
>>1767536
I didn't change the tool or any of the zeros between the two operations. I tried setting negative stock to leave, and while that worked somewhat, it was ugly. I might just try tweaking the tool diameter until it works.

is there any good freetard cad program? I just need something to draw up parts but I don't want to install aids drm on my home computer.

>>1767766
>is there any good freetard cad program?
2D:LibreCAD, QCAD
3D:FreeCAD
"Good" is subjective, having used autocad and solidworks I find them hard to work with. Theres also free as in free beer Draftsight and you can get a free trail for Fusion 360.

Theres a few other open source projects like Brl-cad and OpenSCAD that you can look into.

Who sells good dies?

Everywhere I look is either chinesium or they are the weird ass hexagon shapes (Irwin).

I want to use them with a 1" Sherline Die Holder to make the threading of certain parts faster.

>>1767783
I have the Irwin dies, work pretty well and can turn them with a wrench. You going to be using a lathe or?

If a CNC sounds fine mechanically and moves fine in every axis and i can still see the original grinding marks on the ways. What other problems could it still have?

It has an old retrofit controller, only 2 axis movements allowed. Im planning to add a new controller for it. How hard it could be to do it if im good with electronics?

Also what options do i have in moving a 2.5 ton machine in a shop where a forklift doesnt fit?

>>1767851
>moving a 2.5 ton machine in a shop where a forklift doesnt fit?
Attach wheels to it while outside, use a prying bar to move, or if you have solid points in the wall/ground, you can pull it with ratcheting tie straps. Wooden wedges are extremely important for raising/lowering. Get a bunch of people to help. I've also used a tractor to push and pull around my garage.

>>1767783
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Threading/Dies-Chasers--Thread-Rolls/Round-Dies?navid=12106027+4288237081

There you go, 1" round dies. On the left click on the brands. Every brand there is a high quality brand, aside from their house brand chinese "interstate" brand which honestly would probably be ok too.

And yes, quality taps and dies are fucking expensive and even so Ill never use a cheap one ever again.

>>1767783
>>1767841

Just for reference those "weird ass hexagon shape" dies actually aren't for cutting new threads, they're made for rethreading threads that've been damaged. They've got a pitch diameter that's larger than the actual thread spec so if you try and use them to cut new threads they wouldn't pass a go gauge.

>>1766767
>>1766774
It could be SKD11 (aka D2 in the west) in annealed form
I turn and mill those thing all the time making dies. Chips behave very well with good insert tool.

>>1767674
You may have to improvise and come up with hole diameter of your own.
Try experimenting with a block of mild steel first.
I only hand tapped PT and when it bottoms out (full taper engagement), it will tear off threads or chip your tap teeth. Enlarging the hole fixed that for me

>>1767841
For my Sherline lathe to help automate things when I don't want to manually do it.

t. hobbyist

>>1767903
Really? That explains a lot.

.>>1767893
I am fine cheapening out on certain things but fuck me if I am going to play round with cheap dies and taps.

Thanks.

>>1768097
>I am fine cheapening out on certain things but fuck me if I am going to play round with cheap dies and taps.

Oh and I should say I won't need a full set of them so if I only need to buy 2-3 dies then I should be good.

>>1767851
>original grinding marks on the ways
Anon, ways should be scraped, not ground.

>>1768100
Those are some pretty regular scrape marks then....

>>1768100
slight caveat, sometimes reconditioning a hardened way, they will use an angle grinder or something similar to make scrape marks on it.

it apparently works but it's slow going.

>>1768104
>box way with visible flaking

The ways on that thing will probably outlast you, provided the covered parts were lubricated too.

>>1768104
>pretty regular scrape marks
That's kind of the point, yes. But those look beautiful from what I can see.

>>1768118
>>1768104
>when some fucking 80 year old guy from Poland has been working at the shop for longer than you've been alive and still doesn't speak a word of English but his scraping is pure art

>>1768100

Ways should be ground. The saddle should be scraped.

This provides a smooth surface for the wipers to work effectively on, while still allowing proper oil film between mating surfaces.

The only reason scraping/flaking the ways came back into fashion for a while was marketing. You could point at the pretty surface and go "herp derp look nice", and push it like it was something desirable.

>>1768179
it's probably flaking or something for extra oil between the surfaces.

I'm making a nigger rigged lathe dog instead of buying one and waiting for it to ship. I have 2" and 1/2" round stock. should I bore the 2" into a donut and then weld 1/2" bar to it in a L shape or try to mill the 2" round into a flat sort of normal shape and then weld a bar to it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8N_mprD0d4

>>1768209
my vote is for round

Is the relative position supposed to be the part zero? On a lathe.

>>1767903
There is a lot of misconceptions about thread chasing vs thread cutting dies.
Its like a boomer wives tale.
The shape of the die has nothing to do with whether its a chasing or cutting die.
The tooth profile is the ONLY thing that matters.

Yes the idea behind the 1" hex that craftsman did was so that you could use a wrench like a farmer. And a lot of cheap brands copied it so it caught on. And all the rethreading "dies" were just nuts that had channels cut out of them and absolutely wouldnt cut.

Reality is, 95% of the hex dies made today having a cutting profile on the teeth because it makes chasing threads easier than the old profile. And its going to be your standard class 2 tolerance.
They will cut a usable thread fine, so long as you dont break it like a retard.

If you are worrying about class 3 and higher tolerances, thats when you can buy adjustable round dies to dial in your work.
Pic is related, its what your ACTUAL typical rethreading die is vs a standard hex die (well its snap ons proprietary double hex, but same idea)

>>1768281
Here is a much easier to see comparison on a rethread tap vs a cutting tap. Ironically nobody says a word about taps, but its the same exact situation

Rethreading tools are cheap and made of poor materials.
I wont sit here and say carbon steel taps and dies are great, but they DO have the cutting profiles and they will cut adequately until you get into stainless and things like that.

>>1768215
so the first option?

>>1768179
I don't think you fully understand the point of hand scraping something like ways. It's very far from "looking pretty".

>>1768104
Looks like it's in great condition
What's the spindle taper on that?

>>1768209
the left one will suffice

>>1768283
most dies are set-screw adjustable, typically the hex shaped ones aren't and they break if you try to use them to cut a thread

hence the confusion

>>1768331
90% of the time you dont adjust the adjustable dies, and they will cut the same class tolerance as the hex dies from the factory.
This idea that a hex die will break if you cut a thread with it, when its empirically untrue is why there is confusion.

>>1768332
Even Abom thinks they are only made for fixing a thread, he tried one on camera and it broke.

>>1768333
I dont care at all what Abom thinks. Use your critical thinking skills for one second.

I can buy a 1/4-20 HSS 1" hex die from Cle-Line, and I can buy a 1/4-20 HSS "1 round die from Cle-Line for almost the same price.
They have the same exact cutting profile on the teeth.

The only difference is that I can adjust the tolerance slightly on the adjustable die, and that they go in 2 different holders.

Explain to me with your great knowledge why the Hex die would break and the round one wouldnt.
Its a wives tale from boomers without critical thinking skills who broke some crappy dies and then make up some bullshit rule of thumb.

>>1768337
Yeah someone who uses taps and dies daily for a living surely has an opinion worth less than critical thinking.

>>1768342
>appeal to authority fallacy

The trade of machining is extremely vast.
You ask any machinist a question of why he does something specific, there will be times he says "because I have always done it that way" or "because I was taught this way"
Abom quite literally his opinion on the matter with "because he was told that years ago". Not for any real good reason.

Its a mindset of complacency that is prevalent throughout the trade.
In this instance, does it matter? Not really, he buys the more plentiful quality round dies and all is good in the world.
Does it change reality of what is and isnt actually empiraclly true?

No, not at all. His opinion doesnt change reality.
Being a third generation manual machinist in the same niche shop, he does what he has always done the way Gramps taught him. That wont always be the best way or even correct way, but it will work.

When you have that sort of mindset, there will inevitably be things that DO matter that ARE holding your work back.

If you dont have your manual niche with built in customers like he does, you work with CNC and more modern stuff in a much more competitive field, thats what will separate the good shops from the bad.
If you are using mediocre processes, because thats what youve always done, there will always be another shop looking to tweak and fix their processes to be better faster and more efficient. It will catch up with you.

If you take someones word for something, but they cant give you a proper reason why they feel that way, you are absolutely blind.
Thats when you go and figure out the Why, whether it coincides with that guys opinion or not.
A critical mindset is what makes people stand out in a trade like shit. Dont fall into the complacency trap

>>1768349
Not many people actually use dies these days, repair shops will. I'd say their opinion is probably a pretty damn good source.

>>1768351
>I'd say their opinion is probably a pretty damn good source.

And id say, what other dodgy information have you taken in and apply to your every day work.
When will all that catch up with you?

>>1768325
ISO 40

>>1767852
>>1768111
>>1768118
Thanks for the input
I think ill go for it.

>>1768351
I've literally used a hex die to cut a thread on stainless stock successfully

>>1768456
Should have used the Harbor Freight tap and die set, they are round dies made for cutting!

>>1768352
So if you want a tight thread fit and you have a hex die that isn't adjustable, do you just jam it on there and hope it doesn't break?

what happened to solidswiki?

>>1768580
What is solidswiki?

Is this an M6 screw?

>>1768500
I've done that too, it worked fine

>>1768766
no its some kind of 5.94mm screw

>>1768766
I suspect that it is a 6mm screw and that you are either applying too much pressure to the calipers to get a good reading or perhaps the anvils weren't clean when it was zeroed. Measure the pitch. Each thread should be 1mm apart from the next for a typical m6x1 screw

based retard here asking how do you find the center of any circular object?

>>1768766
screw shaft major diameter is usually a few thou under nominal

>>1768847
(1/2) * Diameter

>>1768832
>that you are either applying too much pressure to the calipers to get a good reading or perhaps the anvils weren't clean when it was zeroed.
The fuck are you on about, 5.94mm is totally normal for a mass produced 6mm screw.

>>1768507
How exactly do you propose "jamming" a die onto a piece of stock would change its thread tolerances?
And what makes you think "jamming" a round die wouldnt break it too?
What exactly do you even mean by "jamming"?

If you need a special tolerance (which would be different than 90% of all other standard fasteners) you arent using an adjustable die anyways.
It honestly seems like you have a fundamental misunderstanding of thread cutting in general.

machining seems to be the hardest trade to learn, props to you guys who know how to do this stuff, I'd like to learn as a hobby and maybe take a few classes at my local college

>>1768944
Its literally like every other trade (or hobby)
Lots of fundamentals to learn, but it all builds and there is a snowball effect.

Quite frankly, the biggest hurdle for most people is getting the equipment in the first place.

Do I need to predrill for a spade drill?

>>1768948
No, youll get chatter with a predrilled hole. They are made to go slow and heavy.

>>1768942
Can you really even understand English as a first language? Force it. To jam it, is to force it.

Round die is normally adjustable so you can loosen or tighten it for the shaft size. Even on a 1/4-20 there is 8 thou of slop allowable on the shaft.

https://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm

You also sound like a pompous ass and post bait that isn't even accurate.

Anyone ever tell you...

>>1768954
Dies do not cut major diameter. If you "adjust for shaft size" you will quickly be out of tolerance you dumb fuck.
The adjustment changes the pitch diameter.

Just as I suspected, you know nothing about cutting threads.
Go on and keep frantically googling things to try and make a point retard.

>>1768968
lmfao this is just a troll, really.

>>1768968
Oh and in case you're too stupid to get it, the adjustment is so you don't break the fucking die on a major diameter shaft.

>>1768970
No you absolute fucking retard, the adjustment is to slightly tighten up the pitch diameter to the threads are slightly tighter, it has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with major diameter.
Major diameter has to be in tolerance before you start cutting with the die.

Im fucking baffled right now, its clear youve never done any thread cutting in your life. These are the lowliest of basics you learn when you learn single point thread cutting.

>>1768971
That is true for when you are finishing the thread, the die it's self being adjustable lets you adjust it slightly larger so you don't break the fucking thing on a nominal sized shaft.

If you can't understand the value in that, then fuck off back to wherever you were before.

>>1768971

>>1768972
>>1768973
Again
Dies do not modify the major diameter in any way.
Adjustable dies only adjust the pitch diameter

If your nominal stock is actually nominal, any die is going to cut it without a problem.

If you have oversized stock, adjusting the die out a LOT may allow you to make one pass.
But since the dies to not modify major diameter, if you adjust it back in, the die will still break because the major diameter wont fit into the die.

Also you vastly overestimate how much adjustment there is with a die.
Nobody does what you are saying. Its simply wrong.

You need to go learn some single point threading, it all pertains to what we are talking about. You could learn a thing or two. Im not going to sit here and try to keep telling your. Obviously you need someone with a youtube channel to tell you and then it might click.

>>1768974
>Dies do not modify the major diameter in any way.

Did I claim they do? No?

Really, you cannot even understand basic English. How the hell do you pretend to be so eloquent?

>If your nominal stock is actually nominal, any die is going to cut it without a problem.

LOL that's quite an assumption. Particularly one to be made on /diy/ where every novice is asking about buying chinese mystery metal threading dies. Better get the circle dies that are adjustable just in case.

I have done plenty of single point for one lifetime in the year of our lord 2020. Even poor bastards are off to the land of CNC now with the machine keeping track of all the numbers and plenty of handy references and inserts to keep things running properly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXjX0YpdsJY

ABOM on threading dies.

INB4 blah blah muh appeal to authority blah

>>1768975
>Did I claim they do? No?

Your dumb fuck example of trying to take 2 passes to thread oversize stock pretty much made that claim. Its a made up example that doesnt make sense in the real world.

You buy adjustable dies because you are a machinist who cant bring his stock to size, at which point the dies will still fail.

>LOL that's quite an assumption. Particularly one to be made on /diy/ where every novice is asking about buying chinese mystery metal threading dies

So the goalposts have moved this far now?
Lets go back to square one so you can justify what you and Abom is saying.

Answer me here as to why the shape of the die would cause it to fail when all else is equal.
>>1768337

>>1768977
The adjustability of the die is what we're really arguing over, and there is obviously a significant case for it, as they are readily available and popular.

>>1768976
>its true because my grandpappy said so

Luddites hang

>>1768980
Most hex shaped dies are non-adjustable and have a tooth profile more suited for re-threading. This is a generality and will not always be the case. They are likely popular because Paco can slip a socket over it and repair a thread.

Why argue against this when in the vast majority of cases it holds true?

>>1768979
>The adjustability of the die is what we're really arguing over,

Youve certainly tried to make it so, then you tried to conjure up a scenario where it would make sense. And it didnt work.

>there is obviously a significant case for it, as they are readily available and popular.

The form factor has been standard for years and years.
The hex form factor was made by craftsman in the 50s.

It is simple as that, the form factor is NOT a determining factor on whether it can cut threads.

>>1768981
They literally have the same cutting tooth profile since manufacturing has improved since the 50s.

>Why argue against this when in the vast majority of cases it holds true?

Because its not true, its boomers wives tales that plague this trade.
Stop being a fucking moron and think once in a while.

>>1768976
I like how he acknowledges that other machinists are going to disagree with him, and that he doesnt care cause grandpa says so.

>>1768982
>Youve certainly tried to make it so, then you tried to conjure up a scenario where it would make sense. And it didnt work.

Dies suck and break all the time, this is a premise of my argument.

>They literally have the same cutting tooth profile since manufacturing has improved since the 50s.

Not true, as a spiral point tap has a different profile than a bottoming tap, so too there are different profiles for dies. It may vary by manufacturer for all I know--I suspect there is no great pressure to standardize as dies suck and are obsolete in modern machining.

>Because its not true, its boomers wives tales that plague this trade.


The fact that you have such ego tied to this discussion is a bit amusing.

>>1768985
It works in the vast majority of instances.

>>1768987
>The fact that you have such ego tied to this discussion is a bit amusing.

You should strive for putting out factually correct information.
Telling people the outside shape of a die is a determining factor on whether it can cut threads is a bad thought process.

>>1768989
>"i do it this way because ive always done it this way"

Again, Luddites hang.
What other stuff that actually matters does this retard still do because grandpappy said so?

>>1768993
>Again, Luddites hang.
>What other stuff that actually matters does this retard still do because grandpappy said so?

If grandpappy said so, and it still holds true, then it isn't wrong.

>>1768994
Sure, but we are looking at an example of where its absolutely wrong. And its to this day being regurgitated all over different places.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AyMQNoaBjc

taper boring for lathe soft jaws

>everyone is arguing about dies and threading.
I worked in a repair shop for years and the only time we ever needed to use dies was to clean out threads or make sure that some of them weren't messed up.

If we needed to cut threads we used threadmills for larger holes, taps for smaller ones, and single point threading tools for cutting threads on bar stock.

>>1767676
Cut the hole to 47/64" instead of the recommended 45/64" and the threads cut perfectly every time after that.

Unrelated, interesting numerals.

To all you thread die experts who have manifested in this...thread...

How tf do you reliably get a die to start/cut straight in relation to the stock? The few times I've used dies to cut threads they have been useable, but never very well centered.

I bought this stupid faggot chinesium piece of shit like a real moron. After banging my head against a pirated chinese version of mach 3 to get the steppers calibrated-ish I've tried doing some test cuts, and the whole gantry flexes like a motherfucker even on light cuts. I need it to engrave aluminum, single flute cutter, 10 thou DOC, but unless I run it at 6 ipm it shakes and shudders and chatters. If I grab the spindle and push it around I can flex it 50 thou in y without much effort at all. I've tightened all the bolts and it helped a little but not much. Did I just fuck myself or is there something I can do to make an engraver out of this?

>>1769460
Did you honestly expect a desktop cnc made of aluminum to be rigid enough to cut much faster than 6ipm?

>>1769448
>How tf do you reliably get a die to start/cut straight in relation to the stock?

Very carefully. Ideally, use a jig. A tailstock die holder for a lathe is a good start, assuming you have one. Threading dies don't really self-center well, the way taps do, to an extent. The only reliable way to keep them centered is to ensure they can't do anything else.

>>1769463
>Did you honestly expect a desktop cnc made of aluminum to be rigid enough to cut much faster than 6ipm?

It should. My first router was made of MDF (admittedly also a lot larger, but still), and it would tear through 1/2" boards at 60IPM with a 1//4" end mill. Not exactly fast, but way more material being removed than a 6IPM engraving operation.

I'd check over everything, ensuring it's tightened properly. Something's not right there. Converted 3D printers can do engraving without issue, and they're nowhere near as rigid as what >>1769460 has. Unsupported linear bearings are hot garbage for this kind of thing, but they shouldn't be THAT terrible at relatively small spans like this.

I assume the thing's running flat out (should be 24,000RPM if that's the spindle I think it is)?

>>1769460
From the look of it, it shouldn't be flexing that much.

Linear rail carriages loose on the rail or somethign?

>>1769469
I'm genuinely surprised by the capability of those little routers then. Can you point me to a resource for learning more about them? I know I know I could Google it. But I'd be interested to know what someone who has used them has found useful or helpful.

>>1769469
>>1769470
Yes as fast as it will spin. Advertised as 40k rpm but I figured that was a lie, regardless its screamin fast.
Here are the rails in question. Every bolt I can find is tight.

>>1769481
And here's an example of what I'm doing, this is plastic and you can see the wobble in the long straight sections

>>1769483
And just for giggles a view of the aluminum tooling plate I put on in place of the horrid warped extruded aluminum bed, and the scrap cast iron surface plate I have the thing bolted into as a base

>>1769484
well if you think it's the round rails you could replace them with a higher quality version

>>1769483

I gather there's no actual play the spindle, just the expected bit of flex? Does this happen at all speeds, or is it worse/better at high or low speed?

I can't help but notice the regularity of the undulations, and that the peaks/troughs line up across the stripes. That particular type of wobble screams "bent screw", especially because it only appears to do it on one axis. It could also be poorly-aligned bearings/collars/couplers at the end.

Spin the screws by hand. See if the resistance varies throughout its rotation. This will be easier to feel if you remove the motors, but I'd expect it to be noticeable without doing so, if its bad enough to cause the spindle to wobble like that.

>>1769478
>I'd be interested to know what someone who has used them has found useful or helpful.

I haven't used any of them, though I'm on my fourth rebuild of the one I made from scratch. I've made just about every design fuckup I could on that thing and can guess at the shortcomings of the mini ones at a glance, but I don't think there's anything I could say about them that Google couldn't.

>>1769493
>See if the resistance varies throughout its rotation.

Actually, it occurs to me that, because the rails are unsupported, it may actually not be noticeable either way. In any event, the screw should turn almost effortlessly, with little or no perceptible drag. If it doesn't, try loosening the bits connected to it and see what happens. I'd also try disconnecting it entirely and making a cut by hand to see how straight it is, if that doesn't turn anything up.

is there any money in being a toolmaker or machinist?

>>1769501
good programmers make decent money

emphasis on "good"

>>1769501
if you own the business, probably.

Do you buy your own tool /emt/?

>>1769656
er uh, I guess?

>>1769501
>is there any money in being a toolmaker or machinist?

That depends on your definition of "money". Also location and what industrial areas your near.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBFE7I2KgQQ

Tool balance? Not with a crappy pull-stud and collet nut.

Im starting to get interested on this nice little autistic boomer hobby and I'm kinda feeling overwhelmed by the amount of specific tools a complete shop is required to have.

What are the basic tools that one needs to generally get most things done ? I know you can thin out raw material horizontally with the lathe and drill with the press, but I guess these two dont cover the case of me having a soild piece of material on a shape that needs more metal cutting, I guess ?

>>1769942
Honestly? It's expensive as hell. Most basic bitch shops have a old lathe, small mill, and a few toolboxes worth of tooling

>>1769948
Yeah, I was already under the right impression it would cost a buck so thats why I was asking what was the bare minimum to do most things so I could by some cheapo miniature versions so I could feel like a true boomer.

>>1769950
Buy old iron if you have the space. It's so much better to overbuy than to have less.

>>1769942
You don't actually need money to be a machinist. Me and my down syndrome step father used to go to the tip every day with just a hacksaw, a hammer and a pair of pliers, and make weapons and armour out of scrap metal and fight each other

>>1769498
Didn't get to pulling off the screws today. Did buy pic related off of cl for a cheap price. The problem I'm having looks exactly like the flex shown here: https://youtu.be/6a57KtmIu-4?t=290 and maybe supported rails will help.
>>1769501
You won't starve but you won't get rich. You can make 100k/yr with a hs diploma but it's all in the overtime. Machining jobs tend to be either at hole in the wall small places run by the worst scrooges imaginable or at huge factories where the suits in charge think you can replace a master machinist with a $10/hr button pusher with felonies. Best I did was $22/hr on a 9 axis millturn, which is criminally underpaid. I quit and now I teach ccw classes and sell guns and make more money from fewer hours.
>>1769942
You need a mill and a lathe to get started. Lurk cl and buy an old bridgeport for about 2 or 3 grand, and an old manual lathe for about the same. Figure 2 grand of tooling for each to get started. $6-10k will get you going.

I spent another day agonizing over drill point comp. I switched to 135 degree point but it's still too much I think. should I just plunge with an endmill? the hole is 3/32.

>>1770004
What are you trying to do?
Plunging with an endmill most of the times is the worst option.

135 split point is the best option for most metals until you get into ultra hard stuff that you use 140 carbide that all have their own brands special chisel points.

How can a broke cunt like myself get into machining?
Is there any hope?

>>1770004
>over drill point comp
>still too much
What the fuck are you trying to do?

>>1770012
Get a job like everyone else did. Shit is expensive

>>1769996
>I quit and now I teach ccw classes and sell guns and make more money from fewer hours.
Based, ever thought of getting a small machine and making shit for the industry? I mean, I know the industry is stupid saturated right now, but all it takes is a niche

>>1770012
No, unless you go to a makerspace or college that has machines. Or even know a cool ass older guy that has tons of shit.

>>1769996
>The problem I'm having looks exactly like the flex shown here: https://youtu.be/6a57KtmIu-4?t=290 [Remove] and maybe supported rails will help.

Yes, as mentioned previously, unsupported rails are hot garbage. Having used proper machinery already, you probably already know that the 3 most important features of a quality machine are:

1.) Rigidity
2.) Rigidity
3.) Rigidity

However, it only really matters when making (relatively) heavy cuts. Engraving is far from "heavy", even for a very light-duty machine. Using nicer, supported bearings would probably help, but it would be better to fix the actual problem first.

>>1770007
>>1770017
I'm drilling blind holes in thin walled tubes. the problem is that if I drill too deep I have wall thickness problems but if they aren't deep enough the pins I'm beating into them won't seat securely.

>>1770029
Drill depth to point then chase with an endmill.

>>1770033
I was thinking about this, but another problem I have is that I don't have a collet for the diameter tool I am using and I'm worried a jacobs chuck will have too much runout and cause the hole to oversize.

>>1770034
If it's not making your drill go fucking crazy, it should be good enough to do spot facing with a small endmill. Actually wait, are you doing this on a mill or a drill press?

>>1770012
if you're broke and have zero experience with machining, then what you need to do is go get a job in the industry. Assuming you have $0, you can try to get a general labor position in a place that does machining and work your way up. [boomer mode] if you start as general labor and show up on time/not drunk/pass drug tests/are enthusiastic about learning/respectful/cool you can get moved up to being a "button pusher" operator, where you load and unload material and hit the go button, which is the bottom tier of machining and work your way up from there. That's how I started. general labor -> button pusher -> doing my own setups ->full time setup guy ->setup and programming ->setup program and run millturn. [/boomer mode]
If you're willing to get some light student loans, your local community college will have a cnc machining course that will teach you the very basics and get you a job afterwards. I only mention loans because you said broke. If you can come up with/beg parents for a couple thousand the tuition shouldn't be more than that. The company I worked for as general labor sent me to school and paid half my tuition, taking the other half out of my paychecks.
Temp agencies can be really good for getting you that first foot in the door at a big company with room to move upwards with experience.
Alternatively to all that, go to a makerspace and get in on it as a hobby. There are also do it yourself cnc router kits that use mdf board, 3d printed components, and a dremel for a spindle that can make a hobby machine for a few hundred.
>>1770019
yeah I'd like to. The engraving machine is my first personally owned machine. My idea was to offer custom engravings on AR magwells. I can get decent results as is (pic related) but every imperfection jumps out at me and I want to make a proper machine out of it.
>>1770021
agree, just snagged the supported rails because I could

>>1770072
>>1770019
this is off topic for the thread and brushes against the rules (although I think it's allowed) but I also have a creality cr-10 printer and am prototyping some offbeat stuff like this 1911 grip that accepts a carbine buffer tube and pistol brace. I shan't say more to avoid cluttering up the thread with off topic.

action shot

>>1770074
Market it, just make different gun grips and you might have a decent idea.

>>1770074
I already beat you to it, want to buy one for a Glock?

>>1770092
I'm aware of several stock on glock options including ENDO tactical that he's been making since like 2010. By no means am I claiming to have an original concept, just didn't see anything I liked for my 1911 so I made one. To make it thread related I think the finished product will be machined out of aluminum for durability. I'd want to put a grip texture on it, a diamond knurl would be pretty choice but I'm not sure how to accomplish that on a non round part outside a lathe

>>1770098
>diamond knurl would be pretty choice but I'm not sure how to accomplish that on a non round part outside a lathe
Eh...maybe engraved or chemical etched, or even just a rubber outer layer.

>>1770099
>>1770098
grip texture you can do with a 3d parallel toolpath

>>1770098
and if you end up wanting any prototypes machined, I can probably help you out.

>>1769942
You can go a long way with a drillpress, files and a saw. The fun really starts with a lathe and a mill though. And the saying the tooling costs as least as much as the machine is an understatement.
When i inherited a lot of tooling and measurement equipment i really realized how much i needed a lot of stuff. I incorporated everything i got in my shop in about a day. I instantly used it like i had it all the time but if i had to buy that stuff it probably would have been several grands. I think a lot of machinists have no idea how worthy their stuff is for a newbie without any tooling. You can't just grind a cutting tool from some scrap because you don't even own scrap hss.

My advice would be to buy most of the stuff used from people who don't really know what they are selling. I got a nice german made mini lathe for less than what a good endmill costs. Also the 3 boxes of "scrap" you get with a purchase are often the real deal.

When i started out i had a 1" micrometer, calipers, a few drills and a dial indicator. That's maybe 40€ new. The chinese stuff often is crap but i wasn't really into the used market back then.

Then i bought a chinese mill (which is still working fine but i probably would buy a used one now), a bandsaw, an ER32 collet chuck (good quality) and a cheap collet set. The mill probably costs 2k€ (mine was more expensive but with DRO and ISO40 spindle). I would go at least for bigger than BF20 style or german/swiss/western made. For the first year i had 5 endmills because i had no spending money left. That was possible because i removed most of the material with the bandsaw. I absolutely underestimated how important that is. I still haven't used most of the collet. The set was a waste of money.

I'd say if you get a good deal on the used market you can reasonably start out with 500€. A normal amount would be 2-5k€. And most shops are well over 20k but you don't realise that as you buy stuff over the years.

>>1770074
Nah, the rules are talking about "building" guns like putting together parts kits and the like. Manufacturer or machining of guns should be halal.

>>1770283
>And the saying the tooling costs as least as much as the machine is an understatement.

Bruh.

>hemming and hawing over whether I really need a larger angle grinder for $70
>too like a year to finally break down and buy a bandsaw, which is straight-up NEEDED to make effective use of material
>automatic center punch is $6?! fuk dat, I'll just stick with my sharpened hex wrench
>but wait
>I can shave 3 seconds off a 2-minute operation with this $80 insert tool (inserts not included) that's almost identical to one I already have? That's a bargain, BETTER GET TWO!

The sheer variety and relatively high cost of the crap you use in this hobby/business totally skews your view of how much you're spending. It took way too long for it to hit me that a lot of the individual cutters I was buying cost more than entire tools that I'd gone without for quite a while because I couldn't justify the cost. It just never really seemed that expensive because it got to the point that I basically expected to spend at least $100 on everything, so anything less than that was almost trivially inexpensive.

I'd say that it's easy to nickel and dime yourself real bad doing this, but we're far beyond nickels and dimes, here.

>>1770295
The cutting speed of insert tooling is not the point in a home shop, the point is that you don't have to fuck with sharpening and angles and whatnot. Stick it in, it werks, when it breaks, turn it around. Also shit's probably not $80, at least normal-sized lathe tooling is usually within $20 including inserts from chinks. I got two 25mm boring bars and a 20mm rectangular tool/holder and 10 inserts for like $40 total.

>>1770021
You called this one like a motherfucker. Took the 6040 apart one axis at a time today and found webm related.

>>1770447

Yeah, that's about right. Can't tell if it's the coupler or the screw from the video, but, either way, replacing the offending component should help.

If it's the screw, you could try bending it straight enough to be acceptable. Not too hard with a vice, something soft on the jaws, and a good straightedge. Half the new 1605 ballscrews are slightly bent to begin with, anyway. Just go slow, it's pretty easy to make it worse.

>>1770447
it's the coupler probably, those are notorious garbage, get the solid style and line it up properly

>>1769950
Jesus kiddo just watch a couple CNC fail compilations and wait until the ADD takes you to another hobby

>>1770283
why spend 2k on chinese when you could get a bridgeport for that much? anyway for me I really wish I had gauge sets. so many times I think about going to the tool crib that doesn't exist to grab some gauge blocks that I don't own.

>>1770303
>the point is that you don't have to fuck with sharpening and angles and whatnot
Unless you constantly work with glass hard/exotic metals in your garage, there is literally zero point in carbide insert tooling except threading tools because fuck making those by hand. If you can't bust out a turning tool on a grinder in like ten minutes from a raw blank you've got bigger problems.

>>1770514
>you've got bigger problems
Yes, like not having enough space for a big 1000W grinder.

>>1770517
>Yes, like not having enough space for a big 1000W grinder.
What are you smoking, you can sharpen tools fine on any pedestal grinder.

>>1770520
Yeah, except it takes half an hour to make a 1" tool on a shitty 200W grinder.

>>1770522
Anon, I think we're talking about two different things here. Where exactly are you going to be using a 1" square HSS tool in a home shop that doesn't have room for a real grinder? 5/16 or 3/8 is more than enough for small lathes.

>>1770526
Why the fuck would you fuck around with grinding a tool in 2020?

>hss won't last as long
>will require decent grinder, knowledge and patience to make the tool
>when you could just spend $15 on a triangle insert from iscar or similar that gives you 3 or 6 cutting edges

>>1770533
then again most triangles are for negative holders and you will probably want a sharp positive for low hp machines that will mean single-sided inserts, so $5 per cutting edge

>>1770303
>the point is that you don't have to fuck with sharpening and angles and whatnot.

The point is to take shortcuts and understand the process you are doing less?

>proceeds to try and justify this over a bunch of posts

Oof
Sharp HSS objectively works better than Carbide in low RPM less rigid machines.

>>1770553
>>1770549
>>1770533
>>1770522

Ya'll motherfuckers not only thinking over a joke way too hard, I was imagining _milling_ cutters when I wrote that.

And, for the record, my big lathe is a 17x60 LeBlond.

>>1770556
>I was imagining _milling_ cutters when I wrote that.

>normal-sized lathe tooling is usually within $20 including inserts from chinks. I got two 25mm boring bars and a 20mm rectangular tool/holder and 10 inserts for like $40 total.

Wait till you need to make a form tool and all of your dumb excuses catch up to you. Skipping the basics is not something anyone should do. "Knowing the angles" is how you are supposed to pick your insert tooling in the first place you dingus.

Do you throw away all your dull twist drills too?

>>1768179
>>1768100

the short slide of any slide way interface (saddle, back of the knee etc) should always be scraped but the long slide (table ways, column and especially the exposed Y axis ways) should either be ground or scraped but without the depth you should on a short slide. a lot of machines are flaked or just have a pass either way from factory for looks and machinetool dealers are notorious for flaking exposed ways for looks on fucked gear.

The pic is the knee off a Toolmaster mill I finished rebuilding at the start of the year,

>>1770558
>Wait till you need to make a form tool and all of your dumb excuses catch up to you.

I thought I made it obvious with that post, but I'm not that guy dogging on HSS tooling.

My mini lathe uses HSS tooling exclusively, because no duh.

>Do you throw away all your dull twist drills too?

Dull ones get sharpened, broken ones get turned into stub-length drills, which I can't get enough of.

>>1770512
Not many Bridgeports around where i live but i could have bought a Deckel, Maho or Hermle. The main reason was that i was completely unfamiliar with hauling and moving that much weight. I knew i can always disassemble a smaller mill (RF45 clone, and you kind of have to anyway to clean everything) and carry all the parts by myself.

Another reason was (as it was my first machine) i can get parts easily and they are cheap. If my spindle bearings ever fail, not a problem. I can get a P4 pair for like 100-200€ NEW. Some use tapered roller bearings which cost 5-15€ a piece. German machines often have non standard bearings and gears. A failure can easily cost more than you paid for the machine. And without access to other machines you can't make replacement parts yourself.

I will definitely buy a horizontal+vertical spindle Deckel/Maho style machine in the near future though. I bet the possibility to kind of use it like a boring mill will come in really handy.

Gauge blocks are on top of my list too. It would be really nice to have a standard i can trust and with a surface plate most of my measurements would gain an order of magnitude of precision. Not sure if i buy used or chinese yet. Cinese class 2 is probably way good enough for a homeshop. I really want a set of adjustable parallels too but for some reason they seem to be nonexistent around here. Maybe i try to get some starrets in a yard sale when i visit some friends in the US.

>>1770098
>a diamond knurl would be pretty choice but I'm not sure how to accomplish that on a non round part outside a lathe
A flat part can be done on a shaper about as easily as a round part can be done on a lathe.

>>1770556
>I was imagining milling cutters
Are you fucking retarded?

>>1770553
Trying too hard to show off, knowing about 5-6 angles and a radius doesn't make you a special snowflake. Also my lathe is plenty rigid enough to run negative tooling. It's true that carbide sucks when I work on thin stock, but I'll survive. Plus it's not like I don't have HSS tools, but I can't be bothered to use them aside from the cutoff tool and the ones for plastic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdYG4pngYgc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm2gZh5k4F0

>>1770558
Tell him to get a CNC mill and mill a form tool out of an HSS toolbit

At least you know it will be more accurate than hand blasting some kind of profile onto it.

>>1770705
I didn't know tapmatic can go that fast.

>>1770639
>knowing about 5-6 angles and a radius doesn't make you a special snowflake

No it doesnt, its very basic shop knowledge. Much like its a very basic skill to grind those angles on the tool.

>I can't be bothered to use them
Just like you cant be bothered to give someone new sound advice?

I dont know anon. Talking up tool grinding like its this big burden that needs a gigantic grinder and then telling him to buy chinkshit that wont run as well on the sort of equipment he will probably end up with?
Sounds like shitty advice to me

>>1770769
It literally takes half an hour to grind a blank to a tool on a small shitty grinder, I know, because I've done it. Also nobody was trying to give a newbie advice. I responded to anon, who said he'd bought $80 carbide insert tooling to shave off 3 seconds from the time it takes to complete a cut, that carbide tooling in the home shop isn't just about saving 3 seconds on your cut, but about saving 30 minutes to grind a HSS tool if you don't have a good grinder. I'd assume that that anon's lathe can take carbide tooling since he's already decided to buy carbide tooling well before you or me saying anything about how good or bad it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ2Exx2TeFM

inconel rocket part

Have started looking into milling and I was immediately blessed with a coworker telling me his Grandfather is trying to sell off all of his old machining equipment. The problem is that this mill has been underwater 4 times now (it ran before this last flood in 2018) and they havent checked to see if it will work. What should I be looking for to make sure he doesnt try to convince me it's worth 4k or something insane. Picture was taken yesterday.

>>1770880
https://www.kdcapital.com/product/1990-matsuura-mc760vx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Droa4ESvuP8

tapping deflection

>>1770705
Now do it against a Speedio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSto8_nbsts

>>1770910
Anyone have actual experience with the Brother controller?

>shop is looking to buy one

>>1770914
I've never ran one, there seems to be a lot of guys on Practical Machinist that have them and rave about them all the time.

>>1770631

Unless you are trying to spout bullshit from a position of ignorance so spectacular that you don''t know what indexable end mills are, I genuinely don't know what you're getting at.

>>1770934
>mfw apprentice thinks he can grind fucking hss milling inserts on a bench grinder freehand

>>1770705
how does it work?

>>1770952
auto reversing tapping head like for a knee mill

finished taking the chinese 6040 apart today. Turns out the wobble in that axis walked the socket head cap screws loose that secure the guide rods so the perpendicularity of the whole machine was maintained just by the flimsy faggot sheet strips and the aluminum tooling plate I put on. I think it was a mistake to mount the machine with those blue vibration damping pads. Bolting directly to the plate will be way more rigid and it's the mass of cast iron that's damping anyway. That fucking surface plate is a hefty chonker, I'm a big strong guy and I really struggle to lift it.
I stoned the surface rust off and oiled it and laid out some components, I think the simplest thing to do is just add the supported guide rods to the machine without removing the unsupported ones.
To anyone who's thinking about buying one of these fucking things, don't. Save up your pennies and get good american goods instead. I've spent more time and money on this piece of shit than I would have a decent machine from the start.

>>1770955
I don't know how those work either

>>1770944
>tfw good endmill being thrown out because just the very tips are burnt
>grind it freehand on a regular grinder (or a diamond wheel if it's carbide)

Can't exactly ramp in more than a few degrees at a time because it's hard to do the center cutting angles but fuck it saves me from having to buy more endmills for general bullshit.

>>1770966
I can't ethically condone dumpster diving for endmills, sometimes the corner radius and square corner parts are important.

>>1770934
No one hand grinds milling tools you fucking tard, save maybe fly cutters.

>>1770970
If it's legit just the corners and you're really steady you can put an okay corner radius on broken tips and still have a perfectly usable endmill.

>>1770984
It's what I meant, but I've also saved some endmills with a lot more damage by making them non-center-cutting "stubs". Again, for odd job bullshit it's fine.

>>1770989
It isn't an end mill without cutting edges on the end, it's just a mill.

>>1770999
who gives a shit what it's called if it works

nice trips nigga

>>1771000
SHEEEIIIT

Machining Gods approve of this discussion.

>>1770999
You are being pedantic, and if you want to get technical about it you are wrong.
Conventional mills are cutters with a bore placed on an arbor and commonly used in horizontal milling machines. Endmills are the arbor and use the end of their tool body to cut. It has nothing to do with the face of the tool.

>>1771006
Clearly, the machining gods do not favor your position.

>Cooperation sustains innovation
Some kind of video game-tier villainous slogan DMG Mori has these days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep548839KoE

Okay this is pretty cool, cnc lathe adapted for metal spinning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQpSR44-vLY

>>1770966
I only do that in machine repair environment where I need a sacrificial end mill for some molested part.
I'd throw them away too if I'm in production environment.

>>1766019
cleaning machines can be cathartic

>>1771285
so is watching manual machining on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mvib21RJlxo

my peepee got hard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu0dIWgiBkw

Thinbit is having a promotional sale.

http://www.thinbit.com/documents/current-quarterly-promotion.pdf

RRRREEEEEEE

another wasted weekend because the fucking power company insists on using snail mail to send me a fucking bill

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SecY2IaMtfs

>>1771861
Huh? Did they cut off your power or something?

>>1772003
Main income source doesn't work on the weekends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHsdeI0kuAg

>>1766811
What do you mean? Those huge lathes are still a thing.........

Are you guys engineers? Or do you work with engineers? What do engineers actually do for work? Do they just sit around and do math and then let machinists have all the fun of actually making something?

>>1772276
Engineers never talk to machinists, neither one knows what the other one is talking about.

>>1768312
>It's very far from "looking pretty".

It _was_ far from "looking pretty", right up until grinders could produce similar levels of accuracy. At that point, only flaking (on the non-exposed side) was necessary to maintain proper oil film. Of course, plenty of manufacturers still did a cosmetic scraping, because they discovered that they could charge a markup for it.

But, yeah, nah you can totally just publicly jerk yourself off with your vague claim to the contrary with no supporting evidence, synopsis thereof, or even some ad-hoc rationale as to why the point your contradicting is flawed.

>>1772276

>making some aluminum parts today
>have an import mill that's decent, but not "nice"
>have some cheap insert tooling
>one has ISCAR APKT inserts in it
>makes the whole machine vibrate like a madman if I try a facing cut deeper than like 0.25" in aluminum (or like a third of that in steel)
>does even worse with side/shoulder milling, making a racket with anything deeper than a few thousandths
>not exactly what I was hoping for when I bought it, but I live with it
>find a used 1/2" roughing mill stashed away that I got for $1
>discover I can shove it sideways into aluminum 0.9" deep and it's almost completely silent and smooth

What the actual fuck? I feel like I'm doing something wrong here. I didn't think roughing mills were THAT much faster than normal ones.

Moreover, why is my insert tooling behaving like shit? No matter what I do, if I try to remove more than like 0.5in^3/min (even less for side milling), it sounds awful, the machine shakes, the chips are hot as hell (dark blue/black), and is clearly just not cutting properly.

I'm inexperienced, but I feel like a fucktard for not being able to get these things to work at any real speed/feed. The inserts don't feel very sharp, but they're brand new, so I assume they're supposed to be like that. WTF gives?

>>1772420
Sometimes the geometry of the tool makes a huge difference, the same is likely true for the milling inserts.

Are they intended for aluminum? Maybe the tool is intended for something like high feed milling (low doc, high feed rate)?

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck tapping titanium

>>1772430
titanium is one of those aerospace materials they usually thread mill because fuck breaking taps in expensive parts

>>1772432
I'm a fucking retard though and luckily this was a personal project on a lathe I was screwing around with to acclimate myself with Ti- I figured "I've done inconel before how bad could it be?" Not gonna be trying that shit again soon.

>>1772276
Yeah, I also program some machines. I design shit, rarely have to do any calculations since the nature of materials used makes any analysis redundant.

Having actual manufacturing experience means I have a huge upper hand in that my drawings communicate things with the minimum information needed. I constantly see drawings form other designers and engineers that make me sick. I also get joy out of fucking up their impossible geometry when I program, the shit cunts never even notice.

>>1768946
Thats the biggest issue im having at the moment. I would like to learn machining but i dont have the upfront money or space for the tools. Using a handfile for everything doesnt sound fun imo.

>>1772463
find paying work once you have some equipment then you can expand in a sane fashion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugNXYwe3BIA

>>1772276
I am engineer, I am also machine programmer, and business owner.

Basically, a title doesn't define you completely. In engineering school, you will hardly design and make anything. You might do some rapid prototyping with a 3d printer, but you will probably never get hands on a cnc machine. In machinist program you might be making everything they tell you, and nothing you want to.

>>1768766
yep

Was given a job that really should have been done at least partially on a lathe.

But I don't have a lathe.

Making the best of it

>>1772441
>I constantly see drawings form other designers and engineers that make me sick.
>stacked tolerances
>everything is dimensioned from seemingly random, different features
>incorrect GD&T
>overly toleranced GD&T

>>1772725
Not sure that would even fit on my lathe, what's the diameter?

It can probably swing like 20" or something, then I would need the live tools to reach that far to the edge too.

>>1772356

>>1772420
Maybe something with the screws that connect the inserts?

>>1772420
Often, those insert cutters are made for heavy CNC roughing with machines that have a fuckton of rigidity and horsepower.

Use corncobs whenever, they're great for little bridgeports and stuff. Hell they're great in general, you can shove the beefy versions through a lot of metal when you have power. Right now I'm using a 3 flute HSS ripper in 7075 at ~23 horsepower and 61 cubic inches MRR per minute.

Replacement couplers came in. Looks a lot better but by eyeball it's still running out somewhat. I have no idea how I'm supposed to indicate in a ball screw. There is a little slop in the stepper mounting so I can steer it a little. The OD of the coupler runs out 10 thou but I don't know if that means anything. I'm thinking about having another inch or so of the screw turned down to the 8mm shaft diameter and mounting a pillow block on the base plate. Then I could indicate on the end of the shaft and lock down the pillow block when its running true.

>>1772839
>I have no idea how I'm supposed to indicate in a ball screw.

When I made my router, I basically just barely snugged up the bearing mounts, then ran the carriage back and forth, tightening at each end bit by bit until the screw turned effortlessly by hand at both ends of its travel. Not really the proper way to do it, I think, but the machine itself was designed to work that way. Not sure how doable it would be with yours.

>>1772839
I think at the factory they normally align the bearing blocks at the ends then pin them in place for alignment.

See if you can move the bearing blocks around by loosening the screws and tapping on the assembly.

er uh, that is coupled directly to the stepper isn't it?

>>1772810
They are 17.9 inch A36 burnouts currently. When finished they will be 17 3/4 inches and have threaded holes on this side and a large boss on the other side. 1 3/16 overall thickness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrxq7oJuNso

>>1772853
yes and it's turbo bad. >>1770447 this is how it came from the factory. pic related is how the screws end, just enough room for the coupler. The other end has this tiny little bearing that sits in the frame and the screw is secured on that side by one lock nut. As you can see there's not a lot of support. That's why I'm thinking of having the screw turned back an inch or so and installing a pillow block bearing on the cast iron base I have, so the screw is supported on both ends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMXepigmkmo

Saunders has himself quite a shop these days.

>>1773037
He's come a hell of a long ways since his apartment with a sherline or whatever. I went to one of his open houses down in Zanesville, he's a great dude in person too. Infectious enthusiasm.

>>1773094
I suspect that's pretty common if you talk shop in person. Finding a way to do so is probably difficult for most industries.

>>1773099
I've only ever worked for massive international companies or greedy shekel-grabbeling wastes of oxygen. Working for an enthusiast like Saunders sounds amazing.

New Suburban tool video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHABU0V34gs

>gear backlash

>>1766709

Most of those went the way of the 16"/50's they made. Supposedly GE and Gen. Dynamics run even bigger ones, though, so who knows.

are there any good maintenence videos? I think the bridgeport where I work hasn't been oiled in months. the guy I took over from told me the vise was properly squared up, but when I checked today it was off by over .015 across the vise.

>>1772904
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZm-q7JqOJ4

>>1773405
I have seen video before somewhere and I'm still upset by the monstrosity of a tool holder they've built just to do a 2" face cut...

What are these inserts intended for?

>>1773410
er, just the one on top, the rest are grooving inserts.

Semi related.
Beginner blacksmith here, what parts of a car can be used as an anvil? I'm scrapping my truck but before the tow truck gets here I want to recycle a good hunk of steel to use as an anvil, if possible.

I have a jewelry anvil, but it's not big enough. I plan on upgrading to a Harbor Freight cheapo anvil once I get a new truck, but in the meantime I need something bigger and better than the jewelry anvil.

>>1773410

just google the label ??? it says its a Kennametal Grooving insert

>>1773112
I could watch don and his blonde buddy all day long

>>1773111
He sounds overly enthusiastic and honestly from experience this kind of people have more willpower and less brain.
Not saying like its a bad thing just something to keep in mind when he starts to preach about things that he just descovered.

>>1773650
Discovered*
t.autocorrected

>>1773478
why are you asking machinists what part of an automobile would make a good blacksmiths tool?

>>1773665
Clearly
>semi related
Means you can ask anything anywhere you are

>>1773667
oh my mistake

>>1773486
https://www.kennametal.com/us/en/products/p.np-k.4109882.html

"Groove and Profile - Chip Control" I guess...

>>1773409
it's modular tho

>>1773726
I get it, I really do. I just don't like it.

Now when they say .0005 tolerance do they mean +/- .0005 or +/- .0025

>>1773650
Yeah and I'm a big brained nibba just waiting for you to come to me with a problem and say go solve it, so working for an enthusiastic visionary would be my best case employer. All I want is a job that challenges me and rewards me for doing a good job and overcoming those challenges. It's not even a money thing, even an attaboy every now and then would be amazing. The little shop owners I've worked for have been horrible people, and no matter how many times I save their ass by pulling a double shift and using scavenged tools and a hand-written program to make good parts out of bar ends and leftovers to fill an order that "fell through the cracks" just in time to get a shipment out the door... all I get is more shit and put down comments and insultingly low raises and never a bonus ever. I feel like a battered woman or a kicked dog. It's why I quit being a professional machinist and started teaching ccw classes.
The other thing you have to watch out for from Saunders is he shills garbage sometimes. I get it, he has to make a living but the tormach lovefest is hard to take and they're not good machines.

>>1773757
Damn man sounds like you had a bad time.
I get it, me2 had the same share of bs once in a while but not enough to quit.

>>1773757
>tfw live tool motor on my lathe is probably more powerful than a haas mini mill

>>1773888
ahh nevermind it's only 5/3 and main spindle 20/15

>>1773895
axis servos are like 2.8hp a piece too

Im getting an old used cnc mill in my shop.
What 3 tools should i get as a first to do most of the operations. More tools will follow soon but budget is tight now.

>>1774044
>What 3 tools should i get as a first to do most of the operations

Regular end mills in 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 diameters will cover like 95% of your ops, unless you're doing contouring.

>>1774044
one of these: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68172816

>>1773746
probably +/- 0.0005" which is difficult to do in an environment that isn't thermally stable.

so I need to cut 6" off this guy's ar barrel and rethread it. I figure I can do the threading between centers, but how can I keep the crown square to the bore without having a way to dial in both ends?

>>1774147
make sure he knows it might not shoot right because of the twist rate

>>1774147
By not doing something retarded like trying to turn it between centers. Make a bushing for the rear of the spindle out of nylon or something and stick it in a 4-jaw, then indicate the bore.

N.E.W.

>>1774161

>>1766502
no safety glasses