/diy/ - Do It Yourself

There's a black thread in my spool.
I'm guessing it's to signal how much is left but I have no info on how much that is.
I dont have a precise enough scale for this.
Any guesses?

>>1737578
Anyone here use the Longer Orange 10? What resin do you use with it? I'm not sure if I should stick with the Longer brand or can get Elegoo or Anycubic.

>>1737635
Use any 405nm rated resin, itll all be fine because all entry level resin printers are essentially the same machine

Latest project, +- electronics left to do.
It aint a huge project but i'll release the files if ya tards want em.

>>1737350
That's awesome! Are they all your own designs?
I was excited about the minis until you said 800 hours, that seems like not a long time. I guess if you are farming like you said they are just an expendable. What do you do with them after?
You've probably answered all this stuff tons before but what does your workflow look like? Do you assemble nerfs while the next prints? I imagine you can probably only do one at a time? Is this something you do full or part time?

So I got a Photon Anycubic resin printer and I've been trying to print things out, but I keep getting the same issues. The pictures are a bit crap but I keep getting flat parts and pieces that aren't forming right. For the Metal Gear, I got a flat head and a flat tail. For the wolf, it came out well except for the tail being flat. Both of those I tried printing them without angling them and minimal supports. For Kratos, I printed it at 45 degrees and with more supports, but the platform was messed up and his axes are malformed. Can someone help explain what's going on? Should I increase the exposure time or should I try adding more supports? The ones on the right are the new ones I'm going to try to attempt tomorrow, unless someone gives me some advice. Do you guys think it'll work a bit better? Kind of been a bit bummed out that every print I've tried so far has had some issues but practice makes perfect I guess.

>>1737774
I would support the base more. I'm usually kind of paranoid when making supports and imagine that anything not supported will sag or worse, fail entirely. But everything else is printing well I'd just add a few supports to the base on the far right side of the picture.
Usually if a print turns out flat like the wolf I would just support it a lot more in the next print. The metal gear print's head is supported only once, maybe one at the base of the next and tip of the head would help keep it from going flat?

>>1737774
I'm surprised you're even getting that quality of prints. Are those autogenerated? you should have (way) more supports pretty much on the entire footprint of the model, not just the local minimums, like on flat areas or just to distribute the pressure. The flat head might be because the model flexed too much during printing because of no supports tying it down and stuck to the bed, and same with the tail. Think of what would happen on each layer if your print were made out of jello and you had to hang it from threads; what parts would sag most without pins keeping it in place?

>>1737538
How assembled does it come? I would think that if it was a full kit, the nozzle crashing into the PEI would be user error during assembly, but sounds like it's not the case?

>>1737760
>That's awesome! Are they all your own designs?
Yes. I have four designs, with some derivations and lots of options for each.
>What do you do with them after?
Beat the shit out of one, gave two away, threw one in the trash.
>what does your workflow look like?
4 print shifts per day at 5 hours each. I come home from my dayjob during my lunchbreak to switch out for the second print shift. Assembly/packaging from 5pm to 11pm. The orders in the print queue hang in ziploc bags with a checklist/order sheet in each one.
>I imagine you can probably only do one at a time?
Each order involves two or three colors, so it's divided among multiple printers. And one printer is setup only for ABS. In a single day I can print one-and-a-half whole part sets.
>Is this something you do full or part time?
I still have a dayjob, but this is nearly full time on top of that. So I work a total of 60 to 80 hours a week depending on the time of year.

>>1737622
I've never seen anything like that. It's probably just a bit of trash from the factory that got blown into the filament spooling machine when a forklift drove past or something.

More and more filament makers are switching to spools with holes in the sides, or that are made from transparent plastic. This is a much more common method of giving the user an estimate on remaining plastic, and it's probably cheaper to just switch to a lighter-weight spool than to come up with some method of putting a piece of shit black thread on the spool. Your spool doesn't look like it has anything like that, but if there is a slot in the side on the other side, there might be little markings along the edge of it like in the pic. They'll be either how many grammes of plastic is left, or how many metres.

>>1737881
Got it, thanks

>>1737783
>>1737777
Thanks. I'll go ahead and put more supports on each of them. I've upped the density of the supports and I'll see what happens this time.

good morning /3dpg/ newish to 3d printing but have a ton of experience in fabrication and cnc. building a large printer over christmas and was hoping for some input/review.
>approx 2'x2'x2' cartesian build area
> x and y on belts with z bed
> debating core xy belt config
>20mm box rails x and y
>3x 10-12mm linear rods z on 2 belt linked lead screws
>nema 23 y and z, nema 17 x (unless corexy then nema 23 all around)
>debating encoded axis (have 3x nema 34 servos w/ drivers currently unused but big AF)
>2 x titan aero direct feed (scared of bowden, redpills welcome)
>super volcano hotend setup for PEEK if i want
>120v zone control for heatbed, so small parts can be printed in 1 zone.
is there anything i am missing? or recommendations?

>>1737928
>debating core xy belt config
check out the dualwire-ganty.

>>1737928
bowden fast, direct slow.
corexy: bowden(dual extrder or toolchanger works nice like this) or a light direct
ultimaker-like: bowden
delta: bowden, single extruder
i3/mendel: direct unless multi extruder is ideal
darwin: direct unless multi extruder is ideal (mod this to a corexy)
moving bed printers: kraken extruder, 5 way swiveling head, anything can work, just slowly
dont do that weird remote-direct drive, if you have enough time and money to design a robust platform using sandwich steppers you can directly print anything

>>1737928
designing a printer that can reliably print PEEK or ulteem is not that easy. you need a 500° hot end, and a 200° enclosure and bed mini, which mean every part of your printer need to accept those temps.

>>1737940
here's a link for him https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFOXgfbH_gM

guitar tuners also make good tensioners supposedly, redesigned my toolhead so when a bearing goes out on the belt system to move to a wire'd up corexy without replacing all the parts. still hasn't

>>1737954
i like this, if a high count SS braid could take the fatigue i would 100% use this over a belt, alot more ridged. i have about a mile of 19x7 3/32 SS might experiment.

Ultimaker is the Apple of 3d printers.

>>1737959
then why can I use cura without an afterburner card
makerbot is the apple of 3d printers

>>1737959
>Actually spend time on packaging
>White theme
>It just werks (TM)
>Trying to put DRM into 3D-printing
>Completely going against Linu - I mean RepRap open source values
Pretty much true, but that's not saying there's isn't a valid market for UM or Apple. If you're a company that can't afford to spend an employee's time on something that doesn't just work (TM), you're better off with an UM or Lulzbot, or similar high-tier printer.

Ended up a bit phallic looking.
Feels pretty nice in the hand.

>>1737975

>>1737578
Gun CAD files here:

https://archive.org/details/gunplans2019

https://gun-plans-2019.jimdosite.com

>>1737912
Good luck, just do what you did last time and screen cap the slice vs the printed object if something goes wrong again.

Can you acetone dip petg?

>>1737986
use MEK for your prints and your drug empire

>>1737986
no.
petg is insoluble in ketones.

>>1737993
so what are you suppose to use to vapor smooth petg prints?

>>1737993

>>1737999
Heat. Sanding. Not sure what else.
>>1738000
Ah, well, there you go. Not even particularly toxic. BTW, the cyclohexane is doing the lifting there not the MEK.

>>1738006
the instructables showed the biggest difference for MEK, but it very well could be just additives

>>1737982
Well, the Metal Gear was a bust. Somehow got detached during the print so it became a pancake gear. I'm going to try again, this time with even more supports. Also, is it better to have more than enough resin in the vat or to have a little over the right amount in there?

>>1738006
Is the picture what you just printed with or what you are about to try? If it keeps failing you can try angling it a different direction instead of the same way. Still at 45, or even keeping it like that and tilting it to the side so that the base of the isn't covering the access of supports for the actual build plate if that makes sense. I'm still pretty new with resin prints but these things sometimes work for me.
I always overfill the vat, as long as your spatulaing out the excess so there's no waste, I don't see a reason to not overfill. For small prints I usually use a standardized 50ml and measure out the difference. I'm trying to figure out a good way to measure the total cost of resin use but it will be a while before I make it through the litre I have I think. Maybe weight is the better route, I'm not sure yet.

>>1738027
Obviously meant for >>1738023

>>1738027
That's what I'm going to try. I also just changed out the base of the vat since it was a little opaque and that's what it shipped with. Now it's clear so hopefully that'll help a bit. I'll try to put in a bit more resin this time.

>>1738023
Have you run your sliced file through the photon validator program? Because in the picture you're showing me right now I'm seeing places that absolutely need to be supported that are not. That curl at the bottom of the tail, for instance, is clearly a huge fucking island, and I can't see any at the lowest part of the base

RULE 2 OF 3D PRINTING: PARTS CANNOT PRINT IN MID AIR WITHOUT SUPPORT

>>1738068
To extrapolate further, these supports were all added manually, and by using a mix of heavy, medium, and light supports in the right spots, everything was supported, no flat spots of misprinted areas, and most importantly, only minimal scarring on surfaces that hit the ground anyways.

>>1738068
No, I haven't. I'll give it a try for the future. Thankfully I haven't started that build and instead went with something that should be a lot simpler, a cacodemon. I'll be sure to update it and download that validator program. Thanks for the advice.

>>1738077
>>1738023
Try using PrusaSlicer to generate supports, the default Photon one is garbage at it

Turned out pretty nice
Now i'll just have to epoxy the blade in

https://archive.org/details/gunplans2019

https://gun-plans-2019.jimdosite.com

>>1738173
I am very dissapoint if you didn't print that yourself.

Also what is the bolt actually made of?

>>1738225
steel

>>1737578
Anyone ever mold things with silicone? I'm looking for advice on what to use as I'm just gonna 3d print the cast, I've heard platinum-cure silicone is pretty good.

>>1737881
On my next full spool I was going to weight it print by print and make my own marks in the spool and use that to built a kind of universal remaining spool ruler.

>>1738173
Could a watercooled plastic pistol survive more than a few shots

>>1737864
You are where I want to try to get to. I assume you are pretty successful with it all, at least to make some profit. It's encouraging to see at least one guy got to that point. If you frequent the threads I'll probably have questions in the future. I guess my last question for now is what do you do for a day job?

>>1738230
that's a cool looking candle m8

>>1738230
Sure thing. Disclaimer: I'm in no way a professional for your specific topic, but I've worked with various silicones for model making/casting/encapsulation for a while now, so I've got a reasonably good grasp on the topic. Smooth-On has a great selection of silicones; I'd probably recommend the Ecoflex or Dragon Skin lines, since they're both supposed to be skin-safe (and I think medically certified, but don't quote me). The shore hardness you want will definitely be based on your personal preference, so you might need to find a place where you can check them out or buy a sample kit from somewhere (they should be pretty consistent across brands as long as you find a reputable source, since it's a universal scale), but take care you don't make it too soft or it'll be way floppier than you think and not work right. I very tentatively recommend something with a shore hardness of at least 30, since the 10 and 20 I've tried in small batches is way softer than I thought. I haven't tried this, but I might recommend using a harder silicone for the core (for strength) and surrounding it with a softer one to get the desired effect.

Please make sure you get rid of the layer lines by sanding or acetone first or you will not have a good time.

>>1738230
Can you post the use of this silicone love insert when ready?

>>1738230
why do you need a 3d printer when you have very fast potlife silicone and a turkey baster

I figured I'd finish my previous project while the materials for my mushroom mini-farm arrive.
I also do electronics and I was tired of winding transformer coils by hand, so I made this to spin perfect transformers every time, just entering the number of turns, wire diameter and section of the transformer.

>>1738230
Tried that before. Its way easier to print the actual candle and make a silicon mold of it, then use that to mass produce silicon candles. This way there are no seam lines, no fiddling around with 2 mold halves, finishing the printed candle surface (spray filler and/or lacquer is a good way to do it) is way easier than finishing a printed mold cavity, silicon transfers details (mistakes) really well.

Also what >>1738334 said. I can recommend dragon skin, its a safe bet, expensive tho.
I found a cheaper local alternative, not platinum cure but food safe. Baking the silicone at 80C for 4hours will remove any smell and remaining initiators.

>>1738248
That's a good idea. If you don't already have one, buy a "letter scale". They're pretty cheap, any office supply store will have them. Gives you an accurate weight to individual grammes, better than kitchen scales. I print PETG and PLA, and the PLA comes in spools without markings, so what I've done is simply weight an empty spool, at 180g. Now I can just weight a spool I'm unsure of and subtract 180 to get how much plastic is left.

hmmmm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOZaTB34RrI

>>1738269
>what do you do for a day job?
Product Development for a Material Science lab that also makes niche industrial equipment.

>anycube is now $250

pls stop me wasting money

>>1738434
I literally just bought a kitchen scale. I wanted to get the weight of the prints as well to see if at the end of a reel, how close I end up to 1kg, then hopefully figure out costs. Just getting how much is left isn't enough I think, more, how useful is what I have left? Can I use up this dying reel instead kind of thing.

>>1738500
Do I need two resin printers? Anycubic prints are usually quick because it's usually small stuff. It seems to go on sale a couple times per year at least.

>>1738437
Do you use printers at work? I'm curious about what scale printers are being incorporated in industrial settings and manufacturing.

>>1738435
I'm not watching anything recorded by this literal basedboy.

>>1738569
you're just mad he stole your podcast idea

>>1738563
>Just getting how much is left isn't enough I think, more, how useful is what I have left
I don't understand the difference. If you do like I do you get how many grammes of filament is left on the spool, if that is bigger than the number your slicer gives you you're good to go. Hell, if you keep an empty spool around you can just plop that on there, press the "reset to zero" or whatever that button is called, and then just replace the spool with the one you want to measure, no need to do any math at all then.
Kitchen scales work fine, and really they're more useful in general since you can use them for cooking too. Most letter scales conk out at two kilos. I just suggested letter scales because they're cheap and accurate.

oh no, locked down firmwares
prusa might become the latest makerbot
https://hackaday.com/2019/12/16/prusa-dares-you-to-break-their-latest-printer/

>>1738583
>unironically buying Czech lockware
Haha.

>>1738583
>>1738588

Fake news, it's just a tab you need to break off that serves as physical proof you voided the warranty. It's to prevent wiseguys from trying to sue in the event they burn down their house.

>>1738402
>expensive tho
I dunno, $30 for two pints seems pretty reasonable to me, though my casts are much smaller (I don't do what you and the other anon are after). I'm curious, what shore hardness did you end up going with, since it looks like you followed through?

josef prusa is so full of himself it's incredible.

>>1738582
I kind of like measuring. I also want to see accuracy of slicer vs printer. I know ChituBox vs my Anycubic usually takes up more resin but less time to print from what the slicer tells me. For experimentation sake I guess.

>>1738593
3d printers are the hobbyist equivalent of drone enthusiasts. what do you expect?

>>1738593
Yeah, how dare a guy who made his own company and pretty much took over the consumer 3D market whose design was widely copied be proud of himself. So bad, right?

>>1738591
you can get the hotend to start a fire with only gcode commands, are they going to start locking slicer next? they already made that """3d model""" prusa gcode sharing site.

>>1738598
What do you mean by this?

>>1738248
I just keep an empty spool of each kind I come by, labeled with its weight.

>>1738599
>reddit
its a Mendel clone with standardized parts meant for others to copy

>>1738599
>and pretty much took over the consumer 3D market
he's not the boss of Creality.

>>1738593
Onions boy ,fucking fag sucking his tiny dick.Cant print a new one with this expensive toy ,probably he sucks Tyrone long hoose if he want to know how his wife pussy taste .

>>1738569
>>1738576
He cant even talk without a teleprompter. I dont even know how you can write a script for a podcast...

>>1738601
Wait, you download gcode instead of an stl?
That's fucking retarded.

>>1738614
>>1738619
dear god they still use tl smoothers and dampeners
fuck that place, even facebook has better support

>>1738626
yes and it seems like they host fire hazards

>>1738603
A hobby that used to be a bit elitist (RC planes and especially RC helicopters) suddenly gets a huge influx of normies using a new easymode tech (quadcopters, aka "drones").

I suppose the 3D printing equivalent is hobby CNC suddenly getting a bunch of retards who bought a Prusa and print things off thingiverse and think that's the same sort of thing, or maybe just the old reprap guys suddenly being filled with people who buy Chinese kits to print those little boats with.

>>1738605
The i3 is a far departure from the original Mendels, and it took three iterations to get there. Not to mention that everyone was already selling i3's for years by the time he started the company.

>>1738601
>you can get the hotend to start a fire with only gcode commands

Not if your firmware has all the safety mechanisms in place, and even if you managed to get around them, it's such a marginal case of user error that it probably won't hold up in court

>>1738619
>>1738614

>>1738593
Tiny dick jew.

>>1738634
>being this jealous of the biggest genius since Elon Musk

>>1738629
want me to send you some gcode to prove this
ol' tommy sanladerer has a video about this where he melts his bed at one point
I bet there's a clause that you have to be attendant or something, but again, the same could be said on firmware circumventing the fuses

>>1738628
I guess so but that happens with tons of other things too. In 5 more years it'll be even easier. I don't see a big deal with it, then again, I've only been printing for a year.

Does any one knows whats the best kind of snap fit joints to 3D print in PLA which are very stable and durable?
I have tried to create ball socket ones without so much luck, even if they connect perfect they get loose very soon.

>>1738627
>BigBrain3D
heh

>>1738637
Honestly, I don't really think newbies are the big issue either. People making advanced shit on their bigass homemade CoreXYs seem pretty chill, and most of the time newbies just need to be pointed at that simplify3d troubleshooting guide.
The real issue is Prusa owners. They realise that they made a bad decision and wasted money on an overpriced piece of shit, so to preserve their dignity they double down and act like full-on elitist retards to everyone. "Oh, you're printing a jet airplane on your custom eighty metre belt printer? Should have bought a Prusa ¬¬"

>>1738626
You can still download STLs

>>1738591
And you think that fucking tab will be detectable in a burned down house?

>>1738636

I don't have a Prusa and yes, i've seen the video. The worst things he was able to do was scratch the bed and make a filament blob, at least with gcode from their official site. I think you're missing the point here, the tab is not so much to prevent people from changing the firmware, it's to serve as proof in case the user tries to claim they "dindu nuffin" and put blame on the manufacturer for making an unsafe product. Using malicious third party gcode falls in the user error category and, like i said, won't hold up in court.

>>1738592
Yeah expensive is relative. 1Kg of dragonskin is 43USD where i live, the same amount of food grade silicon is 13USD. For an actual job i wouldnt skimp and get the smooth on.

The dragonskin 10A is too hard for a fleshlight, an A0 or lower should be okay. 10A is acceptable for a dildo, a harder material would not be prone to buckle under load.
The food grade stuff i got is said to be 20A but its even lower than 10A. Said dildo is too soft, like a real semi hard/flaccid one. I want to try make a fleshlight with it, it should be pretty soft. Right now i dont have the time to dick around with these..

>>1738651
Well you could inspect the printer and maybe determine if the tab was removed or not. Just saying.

>>1738654
The issue is mainly that it teaches people to download and use gcode someone else made. It works fine on prusa printers and on prusa's site, but what if some prusatard goes on thingiverse and downloads a gcode that overwrites all his movement multipliers, flashes nonsense to his eeprom, and then does one of the things with the extruder that the prusa site blocked?
You should never run someone else's gcode.

>>1738643
I'm kind of excited that it's accessible, it's a great creative outlet for kids. I've got so many sketches of stuff I wanted to build when I was younger or even my early 20's but the tools/space and equipment were not accessible or too expensive at the time.

>>1738651
jfc its for warrenty claims and lawsuits where the eula actually matters. a house burning down is for insurers to deal with, this is for when the printer is still intact.

>>1738654
Downloading code from their site, using default setups and their tools can still cause claimable damage, and they could easily make a new form of gcode that you have to "maker unlock" in order to lock everything down to a web slicer or something.

>>1738651

It's more detectable than having nothing on there. There are no guarantees, but PCBs are normally made out of a fire-retardant fiberglass-epoxy composite. There is a high chance that it won't just turn to ash and the hole will remain discernible in the charred remains.

>>1738664

The website blocks PID and eeprom-related commands, what would you consider as claimable damage?

>>1738667
lets set the printer to have a 120 bed and 300 degree nozzle.
Halfway through a pickle rick print, it slowly dives into the body, melting its way into the bottom, his arm is positioned to press into the temp probe in order to slowly pull it out, while the pid temp thinks its just the fan being too high. this could also be helped with timed pauses for the runaway protection to not trip.
everyone on reddit loves the model and never knew to check the gcode was reuploaded with this code.
they all go to sleep and 1 out of 100 gets a nice fire started.

>>1738669
You're giving me naughty ideas.

>>1738671
do not do this
this is just what I would think would be "claimable damage"

>>1738564
Yes, but they primarily get used for tolerance-checking parts in an assembly prior to the billet parts getting machined. Or for doing a dry run of a production process.

Trying to print a bumpy surface covered in hemispheres. The spheres emerge from the sides of the object and require supports, any recommended slicer settings to produce bumps that require no supports?

This is a fine quality print in ABS with a .2 mm nozzle.

>>1738593
>All that plastic shit. No respirators.
Hello, OSHA?

>>1738789
>unironically believing that yank workspace regulations apply in Czechia
To be fair they probably have even stricter health codes there. Czechia is pretty western for a slav country and Europe in general is crazy with that sort of thing.

>>1738791
Oh, I don't care enough to even know where Prusa is. But you're probably even more right.

>>1737864
>>1737350
>The monoprice select minis each only lasted around 800 print hours
What fails at 800 hours? That stamped Z motor?

>>1738791
Having been to Czechland (before Prusa existed, about 15 years ago) I was stunned at how more first-world it was than home in the US. It's only gotten better since.

>>1738788
Slow external perimeters way the fuck down and see if you can print the part at an angle so the hemispheres protrude slightly up as well as to the side

>>1738804
Western europe in general is like that. US cities usually have a few areas that feel truly exceptionally first world, but then the instant you get to a suburb or even just a slightly less affluent area you realise that most of it is actually just kind of a shithole by european standards. Europe has less social mobility, but they seem to put more effort into presentation even when they're relatively poor.

Having lived and worked in Africa, Asia, (north) America and Europe, Europe is by far my favourite continent.

Why the fuck can't the 3D printers just measure how much filament they used and tell me afterwards so i know how much is left on my spool?

>>1738826
Maybe you could get a digital scale or something that feeds inputs into a program before and after a print and have that do something to display on the LCD screen?

>>1738826
....they can? Like, use Octoprint.

>>1738826
They can, there are filament measurement sensors you can buy and plug into your controller

>>1738836
How would I put the spool on the scale though? Like with my model (CR-10 V2) it would work because the spool holder isnt connected to the builder, but with all other models they're connected. So if you place the entire printer on the scale, the weight will stay the same since the filament is now on the plate. Hmmm.

>>1738820
>Europe has less social mobility
Unfortunately, that's not true anymore. We in the US (and particularly our oligarchs) have destroyed what upward mobility we had. The Downward mobility, on the other hand, is in fine form.

>>1738838
Cura as well
>>1738826
Get a scale. Weigh your spool when you first unpack it, and mark the weight in grams on the spool. As you use it, you can subtract the current weight from the original weight to get how much you have used.

>>1738855
Yeah no shit, thats how you do it manually
Anon >>1738836 mentionned the d i g i t a l scale, so you could try and automate it.

>>1738841
exercise left for the reader

>>1738841
most people use filament racks or spool holders, the simplest solution.

also use a runout sensor and a pause script or whatever Marlin does. I've had one for years, and there are some that suck where it'll stick to the broken part of the filament or will clog the curvy filament ant the end, but there are some that measure flow or use lasers, but a simple switch works.

>>1738856
Yah no shit, that's how you do it anon. Weigh the goddamned spool. If you had to ask I should have known not to answer.

>>1738826
Some slicers will tell you how much filament is used, which should be pretty accurate.

>>1738334
>>1738230
BD's toys use EcoFlex 00-20 for "Super-soft" EcoFlex 00-30 as their "soft", ~ Ecoflex 00-50 "medium" and Shore 8A and 10A as a "Firm" and "Very Firm" respectively.

>>1737578
https://archive.org/details/gunplans2019

Any tips for printing with ABS on an ender 3 pro?
Im planning on doing what this person did and build a box with heat reflective material inside out of cardboard and print like this.
Is there a better way of doing this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85kuZFygFV0

>>1738793
>What fails at 800 hours?
I'm trying to remember from two years ago all the issues I ran into after that timeframe.

1. The leveling drifts pretty quickly.
2. The extruder components come loose over time
3. The pushlock fittings for the bowden tube lose their cleats, and often times those get pulled into the hot end causing an irreparable clog.
4. The extruder is not easy to take apart.
5. The included spool holder has excessive drag and it alone can cause the extruder to skip.
6. There are a few gaps in the extruder assembly that the filament can bend or kink its way into during a clog.
7. Changing out nozzles isn't easy to do without removing the extruder. And with no electrical disconnects at the extruder, taking the extruder off is cumbersome.
8. The little spring clips that hold the fan shroud on, heaven help you if you take one of those off the wrong way without vice grip pliers and it rockets itself across the room.
9. Every 4th one I've received develops some kind of harmonic rattle in the sheet metal, making it a very noisy printer after the first 300 hours. I solved the issues by adding self-adhesive rubber bumpers to certain spots to act as dampening mass.
10. One of the four developed a firmware glitch that would make the screen go garbled after being on for more than 30 hours at a time, and would have to be power cycled.
11. The controller board was so electrically noisy that the SD cards would get corrupted after a few weeks of being in the printer. This would manifest as dropped or shifted layers in the prints on specific files. This lead to wasting time on diagnosing issues that weren't present, only to find that the issue was only presenting itself on specific gcode files.

It made for a really lousy farming printer

>>1738928
Thanks. I've already dealt with the extruder on mine, and with the sd card cable extension it looks like I dodged a bullet.
I was afraid it was going to be something like "motor shorts and kills the controller board" or something. I guess it's going to be OK for my purposes (it has been so far...)

>>1738926
Not really. Just make sure its heated inside so the abs cools very slowly. When it cools sharply it warps

>>1738875
Interesting, I wasn't aware BD released the info on what they use. Well, not that I looked into it too much in the first place. I've always wondered how they get those interesting colors, swirls, and folds in things like that, though. Other than "add dye and mix", I mean.

Working on an AR2 model from Half-Life 2. Have just finished the first cut of the assembly, now time to figure out the internals

Plan is to make this as functional as possible (sound & movement wise) and then make a cosplay around it. First a rebel one and then a combine

>>1739004
>& movement wise
good fucking luck, I remember it was a little robotic hand that put the cartridge inside each barrel.

Anyone here know their shit with G-code for marlin?
I want to move my Z-axis until a digital pin goes high and then return the Z-distance.
The idea here is to make a crude 3D scaner with a needle probe I made. Kinda like mesh leveling but with way more hight difference.

>>1739021
Thanks senpai, that's where the "as functional as possible" comes in

https://twitter.com/i/status/1209158006736326658

>>1737986
>>1737999
>>1738006

>>1739004
Oh, I've always loved that thing, would be interesting to see your progress on it as it develops. Good luck.

Here's it finished

Does anyone use clear adhesion promoter on their prints? Does it work as well as a colored primer? I print out a lot of DnD minis and i want to use the color of the filament as the base color, rather than priming it and repainting it to the color i want. I was wondering if clear adhesion promoter would be a good alternative.

>>1739004
awesome good luck anon, I could never do something like that, I guess with all the fake guns made with 3d printers, I am sure there are plenty of anons and not that would be able to help in case you incur in problems.
>>1739182
Got a LOICENSE fo that?

I don't know beside "spiral" which keyword to use, but is a model I could find that resembles this?

whats the regular price of the ender 3?
Its under 200$ right now, is that a good price or is that a regular price?

>>1739238
Used to be 200-240, anything under 200 is a good deal.

>>1739243
Seriously entirely 3D printed minus screws? And is it a working airsoft gun?

>>1739251
>airsoft
Hahahah

Not even going to bother to give you a (you); what the fuck is the point of posting this? Go to a forum that does things like this instead of shitting up the thread which specifically disallows it. You're not revolutionary or inspiring by doing this, you're just being a cunt and probably leading to people trying to legislate printers because of "look they can 3D print guns on 4chan!". Fuck off.

>>1739251
No, it's not fully printed, it's only the receiver. The rest of it is still made of metal or injection-molded polymer. Shitty screws, too, can't even spring for proper pins or bolts, apparently

>>1739232
>>1739164
Thanks fellas, will post updates when I can

>>1739232
Yea it is difficult tackling something like this head on, but once you break it down into smaller pieces it becomes less daunting. Adam Savages Every Tool's a Hammer is a good book on this process

>>1739243
I recall seeing a video of someone 3D printing the lower reciever with plastic, worked surprisingly well. But then again, this part does not see much stress compared to say the upper reciever?

>>1739234
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWE8AzJY8qc&feature=emb_logo

1739270
Why so salty lmao

>>1739243
shit pistol grip layer orientation
shit print quality
i wonder why the magazine well is always lopped off with these 3d printed lowers

>>1739272
ah right, spring coil, thanks.

What are good metal filaments?
I was looking at one for aluminum but is 30% aluminium dust and 70% PLA so I don't know if there is enough metal to get a reaction out of it.

>>1739023
That's not gcode. You might be able to use mesh bed leveling to do such a 3D scan, but otherwise you'll need to write a new module (write a new gcode command).

>>1739285
If you're looking for a metal filament to get the part springier, you're probably SOL unless you want to spend a pile of money to get the thing processed and sintered correctly, since "metal" filaments are usually for show.

>>1739285
aluminum wont work, there are some tungsten majority plastic filaments that print well.
you probably want a 70-90% fdm metal filament, those you have to coat in crucible-like carbon/alumina paint in order to be fired into a fully formed sintered piece of metal, some services do that too.(they are a pain to print tho)
https://www.thevirtualfoundry.com/ is the only brand I know that you can do without business connections

>>1739288
I don't need a working spring, I need something in the shape of it, shame then, I even bought the wood filament to make the handles, I just need a metal spring coil for a comparator, (not the device used in electronics)
>>1739289
Well I live outside the US and Spain, but thanks anyway because I guess it means I might not be able to buy it on Amazon.

>>1739291
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlbzBVlAZ6g&t=1s
you could also try this but the price and the fact you have to ship it in for processing is a pain

seething

>>1739293
>affordable
>472€ (thank you shitty VAT tax) for 3Kg
Welp, I guess I'll experiment with various "quasi-metal" filaments and meanwhile keep buying cheap 0.7mm aluminium to make them by hand.

>>1739315
https://hackaday.com/2019/09/28/arduino-wire-bender-probably-wont-kill-all-humans/ might be of use to you

>>1739315
I would recommend gmass filament but that isnt being sold anymore

>>1739318
Interesting, I will have to see with another guy if is worth pursuing but is certainly nice.

Designing my own mouse shell because I can't find a comfortable enough mouse anywhere that fits my hand. This design is just to work out the dimensions, the final will be much more curvy.

Unfortunately the donor mouse I chose is a piece of shit, the sensor goes to power saving mode as soon as you stop moving it for even a fraction of a second and this makes the tracking shit at low speeds.

>>1739344

>>1739344
>>1739350
Havent thought of doing this.

It would be interesting to take an imprint of my hand, 3D scan it and use that for the chassis.
Going further, adding an arduino with HID to get some extra buttons...

>>1739351
>adding an arduino with HID

I think this is what I need to do to get around the shitty uC programming on this mouse because the sensor itself seems ok, but I don't want to shell out for an arduino with a bluetooth module and receiver.

How do I improve my print quality?

EPAX X1
elegoo grey resin
0.05mm layer height
60s bottom exposure
6 bottom layers
8s exposure per layer
180mm retraction speed

I have an Ender 3 pro and lm planning on starting to experiment with Nylon X with it.
Is it really nessesary to upgrade to an all metal hotend when l already have Capricorn PTFE bowden tubing?
Also, what else should l consider before attempting to print with this stuff?

>>1739390
nope dude
just remember to take deep breaths near the printer when printing
helps with the print quality

>>1738853
You can be upwardly mobile to doctor or lawyers or engineers or middle management. Theyre still wageslaves.

>>1739392
Do l need to consider building a thermal insulated box out of cardboard to enclose my printer in when working with nylon or is it ok for it to print in my normal room tempature?

>>1739397
I use PA11

Yes, you need an enclosure, nylon tend to warp.
Yes, an all metal is heavily recommended, I print at 260°. not necessary, but very useful
> what else should l consider
You're not going to reach PLA-like quality. Nylon generate a fuckton of strings.

>>1739384
It is strange, your settings with the Epax are nearly the same as mine with the Mars, yet your prints always look really shitty when I see them posted. So much fucking support residue all over the place.

You cut your supports off before curing, right?

>>1739432
yep
would it have anything to do with the fact I print model rips from Vidya?

>>1739446
they wouldn't look shitty if you followed the correct protocol anon
>choosing the correct model
-uv unwrap seams nice and clean
-displacement textures arent extreme (making your own if they dont exist)
-selective smoothing for overall equivalent mesh density
-checking model can be made watertight, removing brain holes
>knowing how to solidify textures
-removing or printing eyes
-correctly getting skirts filled from mmd
-fusing body to clothes
>posing the model for printing
-closer to apose is best, but as long as legs and arms are printable or supportable
-no lying down or big flat wings where support can get stuck
>knowing where and when to cut the model into parts
-more important for painting, but wings, tails, heads and hands are good things to slice at a higher detail
>correct manual hole filling and automated solidification methods
-pic related are the only ones that matter
-blender hole filling -> netfabb(or free alts there) -> optional scaling and smoothing in -blender and meshmixer for min size filling, also making hollowed

by that point you can steal most models and make them look decent (rather than the dumb 3d rape model shit)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4czpUz1bEV4
this is a nice free system for the basics, but unless you like triangulated models (which I think you do, seeing those blocky legs) you should smooth in blender, also learn how to detail eyes for printing.

>>1739455
didn't know there was a tutorial on how to do it right. guess I have something to do now after christmas

how profitable is owning a 3d printing?
does it make economical sense to rent it?
Is printing toys and selling them profitable?
Why are traditional toys still a thing when "theoretically" "everyone" could print their own ultra badass toys, including exact replicas of the most popular models AND also models that are bizarrely and extremely customized to local customs.

>>1739520
>how profitable is owning a 3d printing?
Not very, unless you apply massive scaling or very exclusive (expensive) techniques)
>does it make economical sense to rent it?
Depending on the scale and business tier, yes. For consumers loking for a cheap FDM printer, no.
>Is printing toys and selling them profitable?
No, you pretty much need your own design in order to be profitable. Look up the Maker's Muse video on this subject
>Why are traditional toys still a thing when "theoretically" "everyone" could print their own ultra badass toys,
Because they can't. This stuff requires knowledge, it's not a replicator but a very, very dumb machine.
>including exact replicas of the most popular models AND also models that are bizarrely and extremely customized to local customs.
Both of which require extensive modeling effort.

>>1739524
so if i want to profit of a 3d printer then the main skill i should develop is modelling and then refining the models, right?

>>1739530
You should watch the damn video.

>>1739532
>Maker's Muse
which one, im seeing tons of videos from makers muse and i dont find that speaks strictly about traditional toys

>>1739520
>>1739530
oh god.
ok, you can be a local hub for 3dhubs (cant really anymore) or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PceI1AtgFvo

>>1739537
https://www.treatstock.com/l/start-3dprintservice
ok I think this is the most hubs-like service page, just make sure there is no exclusivity deal, or you could make your service a separate company that just runs out of your garage, owned by your dog or something.

Any opinions on cheap-ish SLA printers?

I have a budget of about €500 in total for the printer, curing station, etc.

>>1738656
>dick around
sensiblechuckle.gif

>>1739568
I personally think of them as secondary printers, so water-soluble cheap resins and sun/diy curing for 300 bucks. for 500 I bet you could do a /tg/ machine, but I'd budget for at least 1500 to 3000 depending on the size of the bed and how any accessories, like ultrasonic baths, if you want to make models for sale.

>>1739588
I want to make models for my own games, not for sale.

>>1739589
printer, curing booth(50$diy or included in printer), salad spinner(12$), cheap snips & files(6&12$), ipa and whatever paint brand /tg/ recommends should work.
budget that for 400 euros and buy some resin and you should have a nice setup for resin printing under 500.

>>1739597
I'm looking for opinions on which printer to actually get. There are a few sub-500 now on the market and I trust this thread more than paid youtube reviews.

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/aleph-objects-acquired-by-fargo-additive-manufacturing-equipment-3d-164451/

So I guess Lulzbot's main manufacturing line is moving to my small North Dakotan town...
Should I apply and get away from my shitty dead end job, or is it wise to stay away from jobs that exclusively involve your hobby, less you grow tired of said hobby? I'm not even sure if their starting pay would be enough to pay the bills (from what I can find, they are mostly just hiring entry level jobs). I wouldn't mind working in their repair department though.

>>1739613
Here's a local article on the subject:
https://www.grandforksherald.com/business/technology/4829529-3D-printer-firm-being-relocated-to-Fargo-50-people-to-be-hired

>>1739520
Money is in the model, not the print. The whole idea for 3d printers is that it's now affordable for consumers to make their own stuff at home.

>>1739520
>could print their own ultra badass toys, including exact replicas
Most people still don't know how a computer works, do you really think they know how to design even simple things in front of them?

>>1739605
browser crashed halfway through this but:
sub 300:
avoid longer due to the handle
the orange/green color mars or photon look ok, but the qidi for 50$ more gets a linear rail at the cost of looks. the photon has walls but I dont think that would be a problem. also the photon and qidi have air filters if that's important.
sub 500:
photon s seems to be the benchmark, Geeetech is the same as the photon but with a fake bigger screen and wifi, since you need to fill up before starting and no camera support I dont see the utility. stuff like the micromake, duplicator, or the flyingbear shine seem too old (only a year but their amazon pages where deleted) to even be put against the basic photon, just because it has a light in it to cure doesn't justify the high cost and 1080p screen. avoid the Hieha, looks like shit.

when you decided, ask someone with the printer or a clone of it whats needed to get up and running or to avoid it.

>>1739617
didnt they make a printer out of an iphone for those people

>>1739620
Even if they have a printer, how will they get an exact replica model of whatever they're trying to print without actually having it, or bizarrely and extremely customize them, in the first place?

>>1739622
I bet a mentally challenged person could design a beer bottle opener by sight. but yeggi exists for people who what to print key danglers or whatever. this is the job for their nephews who know how to fix a router to do.

>>1739620
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DatXVOOgZnI
heh people paid for this

>>1739520
>Is printing toys and selling them profitable?
I do it, but the items I sell require hardware for assembly. So my profit margin is from producing and selling the hardware at scale. The printing itself is a smaller portion of my business.

Is it profitable to make something unique that no one else does and then ship the actual item across countries?

like, could you realistically eventually make 1000 dollars a month? (that's like a lot for my country)

>>1739639
Why would you go through the effort of designing something, then printing, then shipping, when you could charge for your designs instead? 1000 USD/month for 3D design isn't unheard of, but you need to learn it properly, and you need a market - whether that's a company, or a wide userbase.

>>1739643
because if i sell the design then anyone can print it. If my shit is really good then only way you can get it is trough me, or paying someone else to do the design from 0 but ill have the advantage of only having to print and prepare the model.

>>1739646
>because if i sell the design then anyone can print it.
But your overhead will be much, much lower, shipping nonexistant, and you could operate on a monthly subscription model instead. Operating your own business is hard work, and if you aren't into printing by your own volition, it might be more of a drag than something that adds to your output.

>>1739646
https://cults3d.com/
as a person who steals 3d models for fun, just use this site or myminifactory and sell something for 5-15 bucks and see, people usually dont share those models at an automated scale like they do for patreon or gumtree
if you want to do custom design, use a hubs service like treatstock, but you gotta have good communication skills for that.

>>1739658
>5$ per model

that mmeans i would dhave to do 80 new nteresting models each month.

but if i do one thats really good and everyone wants it i can just sell 80 $10 dollar copies of it and call it a day, while having time to make new models and buy more printers and sell more and more and so on

>>1739605
Wait for the Elegoo Mars Pro.

>>1739658
Myminifactory requires a monthly fee of, I believe 25 dollars in order for you to have a store there. I looked into it, it's bullshit.
Cults is sort of weirdly french and the traffic is questionable, but the cut is about the same you get with Gumroad. Gumroad is where I sell my 3D files but you'll have to do all of your own marketing, which is really the hardest part of selling -anything- on your own.

>>1739665
People that buy 3D models from small artists online generally don't share them: no, you don't need to make 80 new models each month, inidividual models (unless highly customised) can sell more than once.

>i can just sell 80 $10 dollar copies of a single model
And then pay for the filament, printers, energy, time, etc. Not saying this is a bad plan, you just need to do the math beforehand. There's that dude ITT that sells pewpews, he has one good model and produces it at a big scale, it works for him - but it might not for you.

>>1739676
>People that buy 3D models from small artists online generally don't share them
i don't even need a 3d printer for this, right?

>>1739686
Exactly, that's the best part. Instead of printing at your own peril and cost, just send the CAD files across the globe and let the customer deal with it.

So there's additive printing and resin with uv light, any other major technology?

Is there any prospect of there ever being home metal 3d printing?

is there any technology that is "on its way out" and if i buy it i will be like those guys who bought plasma tvs when they were popular but it turned out they were actually shit?
Is there any technology that is "on the rise" and now its the time to get in on it?

can you 3d print something as fine as say, an harmonica with the reeds and all?

I currently have an anet a6 and i'm always worry when I let it prints for hours (bad reputation of fire)
Is the ender 3 reliable ? Should I put 200€ more and buy a Prusa mini ? (smaller bed but is reliable)
It will be enclosed with smoked detector and camera

>>1739690
Yes, you just need a very, very expensive printer. Regular FDM won't cut it.

>>1739688
SLS, SLA, FDM is pretty much it you need to know right now. FPF might be something for the future, but that's about it. You could just google that shit though:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_printing_processes
>Is there any prospect of there ever being home metal 3d printing?
Not anytime soon. Components are too expensive, RepRap isn't getting on it (yet), and besides, why?
>is there any technology that is "on its way out" and if i buy it i will be like those guys who bought plasma tvs when they were popular but it turned out they were actually shit?
Small FDM printers (below 200^3mm) in my opinion. SLA has better resolution, and big FDM is much more versatile.
>Is there any technology that is "on the rise" and now its the time to get in on it?
Industrial metal printing if you go by what I saw at Formnext, as well as FPF - but that's well beyond the scope of /3dpg/.

>>1739691
Flash new Marlin firmware on that thing, with a functioning thermal runaway protection. Ender 3 is reliable once you do the same, but I wouldn't consider an E3 or Mini if you've got a functioning A6. Making the A6 fireproof is cheaper than buying either.

>>1739693
>>>1739691 (You)
>Flash new Marlin firmware on that thing, with a functioning thermal runaway protection
I already did the flash to have a thermal runaway protection but i don't think it works against pic related

>>1739696
i have a budget of around $800 dollars. My main focus would be to print architectural models, that means intermediate pieces that are as detailed as possible with the least amount of afterprocess.

What do you recomend me for that?

do i have choices for the same purpose that make a better job but less reliably, or something like that?

does electricty consumption changes a lot?

is electricity consumption of a 3d printer off the charts? like is it worst than an air conditioner will it blow the fuses?

>>1739693
>>1739676
>>1739658
>>1739626
>>1739617
>>1739616
>>1739532
>>1739537
thanks for all of these, these are really helpful, thank you very much

Can you use 3d printing to make a mold that can later be used for some sort of cast metal?

>>1739619
>>1739667
Thanks, will look into those.

>>1739701
SLA can do incredibly fine detail at very small scale, but build volume is limited. Pic related

FDM can print pretty great detail at larger scales and will take a proportionately longer amount of time due to increased travel, but for very very fine detail it will disappoint.

For 800 bucks you could get one of the cheaper models of each type, or throw it all toward one mid-range printer. More money in FDM will get you a larger build volume or some kind of customer support, if you're into that wack shit, but you won't get any better print quality than a well tuned 200 dollar chinkydink creality.

You can get more print volume from a Peopoly or Formlabs SLA, but you can halve the price and go with an Elegoo Mars (pro) or an Anycubic Photon (s) for resin printing.

>>1739727
that looks really good, how big is it aproximately?

>>1739728
I'm not sure about that one, but here is another print next to a 1 euro coin, however the fuck big that is.

>>1739701
Also here is a page you might be interested in:
https://www.aniwaa.com/3d-printing-for-architecture/

I should note that for most of the resin printers under 400 bucks, your build plate will be small, like a deck of tarot cards small. For example, the Mars has a build volume of 4.7" x 2.6" x 6.1" (120mm x 68mm x 155mm) If you want bigger than that, you're looking into Formlabs / Peopoly and much more money

>>1739735
that is mad detailed, maybe more than i need.

>>1739737
>>1739737
this info is mad useful also, thank you, ill keep posted here the results.

>>1737578
Silly string gang represent

>>1739693
>Not anytime soon. Components are too expensive, RepRap isn't getting on it (yet), and besides, why?
I want to design tools for my construction work to make my life easier. Even if it's expensive to produce, decent or specialized tools already are anyway.

>>1739702
If you have a clamp on ammeter you can plug a printer in to see how many watts it's using at a time. I have my desktop/FDM/Resin/dehumidifier on the same cct with no problems so far in regards to tripping breakers.

>>1739791
If you dont use a heated bed you can use a cheap and tiny mini power supply, like less than a laptop charging worth of electricity. Now with a heated bed you are periodically pulling the max watts of your power supply depending on the build area being heated.

Got my ender 5 set up having a really hard time leveling it. I saw on some videos that it has auto bed leveling but mine doesnt how can I update to have it and what is the positioning of my knobs I should start with I think I fucked it up trying to level

Crossboarder here, are there any 3D printing services that don't require a (((membership))) or an (((account))) with (((linked payment information)))? Like, a "continue as guest" option? I want to print out a single Nerf part from thingiverse but all their suppliers suck. I don't have any libraries nearby with printers and don't feel like I'll be printing often enough to justify buying my own.

>>1739825
>it has auto bed leveling
as an option.
https://cults3d.com/en/blog/articles/how-to-level-3d-printing-bed

Trying to print pic related and found one on thingiverse. But on reading the comments it seems that the magnets can't hold up some of the heavier headphones (2kg). I am too retarded to do anything so I am asking you guys if you have any ideas of how many and which N52 magnets should I put on this to get enough magnetic force for it not to slide down.

>>1739920
Just buy a pack of like 20 magnets and modify the back of the model to be a cheese plate and then put as many as you need until it holds.

>>1739715

Yes. You'll need to use a metal that has a lower melting point than plastic. Gallium comes to mind.

>>1739935
You shouldn't always assume that you have all the answers because sometimes you'll be dead wrong.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ow4x0jadJY

>>1737578
>ender 3 kit around 160€
>ender 3 pro around 260€
can i print keyboard-keycaps with it?
would be my first 3d-printer

>>1739872
What country/region are you from? Maybe someone here will do it for you.

middle mythra (all figures are around 37mm-50mm) was fixed in blender, 3d builder, mesh mixer (made into quads) and printed at 0.04mm, 150mm retraction, 60s bottom layer, 10s layer speed, 6 bottom layers. It doesn't look that much improved from the left one at previous settings, but another mini I printed that's more traditionally /tg/ seems to look really good at the middle's settings. I think it's a problem with the models rather than my printer. how else can I fix my models before printing?

>>1737940
Thank you for the pointer to this. I'm rejigging my TronXY and this looks promising. Any reccomendation on cables to use?

>>1739980
USA, Seattle area.
I didn't think anons here took commissions. This is the exact piece, if anyone's interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3427635

>>1739989
Person you replied to here.
I intended this only for the layout. If It was my printer I'd still use belts but in that configuration.

>>1737952
You can mount the steppers and electronics outside the heated chamber. Stratasys has a patent for it.

You can also duct in cooling air for the hot end and put the Bowden tube inside the duct to keep it cool.

>>1739234
Post some dimensions (min size , max size, height, number of turns) and I'll model it for you.

>>1739872
Email Elizabeth.a.greene@gmail.com. She'll print and ship it for mailed cash or or PayPal or silver or BTC or barter.

My 3D printer can go as far as 100 mm per second, does that mean that when printing I should always go for that speed?

>>1739920
Stronger magnets will only help if the back or mounting surface is not smooth. It's not glue, so it doesn't create a bond and is only technically held in place horizontally by the force of friction. Try adding a thin sheet of cork or rubber to give it more grip, but don't make it too thick or you'll lose holding strength due to the gap.

>>1739984
post models with supports. increase cure time, your model looks too smooth

Ive got loads of free time and a good printer (MK2), is there any place i could offer my printing services in exchange for a fee?

>>1740037
no

>>1740043
then how do I decide?

>>1740042
Etsy shop?

>>1740045
Trial and error
The best actual way to find out good settings is to find out the settings of a quality machine that is similar in construction to your chinkshit and copying those settings. Adjust if necessary.

>>1740045
>then how do I decide
Tradeoff between speed and quality. If you want just rough parts that serve a purpose and don't need to look good, 100mm/s is fine, but you'll regret it if you want to make decorative pieces

>Etsy shop
Only if you have a way to drive business to your shop or offer unique pieces. Why would someone pick yours over some other random chucklefuck who offers lower prices and shamelessly rips off other peoples' models?

Alrighty then, I am reprinting the same thing now, draft and rough took 1:40 overall, this one going by the recommended and at 50 or maybe it was 60 mm per second, said it would take 3 hours and 30.

>>1740047
Shit son, then get a loan, buy a shop and offer your services.

>>1740040
Cure time in the printer or UV chamber?
ive got another batch coming out in 3 hours

>>1740055
Exposure per layer. I don't know what exactly you're using but 8 seconds seems way too low for an opaque gray resin for me. I use 11 seconds and that still seems a bit low, my parts come out slightly tacky even after the isopropyl wash

>>1740073
I did 10 seconds for the left and middle figures. the one on the right was 8 seconds.

at higher exposure times could I get away with a smaller figure and still have detail?

>>1740073
Exposure time should be based on the effective result of your print and varies from machine to machine. I was printing minis on my Mars at 8s/layer and found that the details were still getting a little blown out and soft; switched to 7.5s and that was enough to get details looking crisp. Exposure tests and practical tests like the little city print should be your guide.

I have a ANYCUBIC Chiron FDM
I tried to print a World of Warcraft coaster (for a friend)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881435

https://i.etsystatic.com/7184056/r/il/114e36/1536615331/il_fullxfull.1536615331_r0wo.jpg

And as you can see from the picture (red one), it came out wrong:
On the left is the quick model, 1 hour and 40 circa, on the right is the one done by the book, took 3 hours and 53 minutes.
>Resolution: 0.20
>Infill: 20%
I use APL, printed at 50 mm/s, exported from Cura.

I am also a newbie.

supports done. Djeeta and pyra and fails while both rexes were perfect.

>>1740134

>>1740135
That is pretty much the worst orientation you could possibly print them in, and your supports are way too thick.

>>1740134
newbie too, out of curiosity what is wrong about them? they look nice imo

>>1740134
>>1740137
that's about the quality your going to get without any post processing. you can get rid of the weird random lines on the surface under combing mode in the travel settings, comb all should remove them but can increase the print time slightly

>>1740149
I am having this problem:
>Gaps Between Infill and Outline
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/gaps-between-infill-and-outline/

I don't know how to fix it using Cura though.

>>1740151
>Combing mode
this one is to activate eh? I ought to try it I guess.

Oh and another thing I am not sure it would show up in a photo but the "more accurate one" doesn't have a flat bottom, it has a odd bump.

If you put both on the same flat surface the accurate one rocks, is not stable.

>>1740138
Any tips?

>>1740134
>https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/gaps-between-infill-and-outline/
>>1740137
>>1740154


so that striped pattern is unavoidable in FDM printing right?
if you want something smooth with fdm you have to putty and sand it, right?

>>1740156
Print them more vertically and make the supports thinner. Honestly, this is google-able, I'm not sure why you're asking here first while doing your own thing instead of reading beginner's guides, printing at ~45deg is pretty much always the first recommendation

>>1740157
Maybe, if you look at the ideal version of what I am supposed to print, I can still see them.

>>1740158
I trust the words of /diy/ more than any other board or internet entity that has a fatwa against animeshit

>>1740137
I found some sandpaper I had, but the grit is P 60, should I even bother attempting? Or just go directly to painting it.

>>1740187
>60 grit
You'll mess up the surface even more if you try that without anything else.

>>1740157
>so that striped pattern is unavoidable in FDM printing right?
>if you want something smooth with fdm you have to putty and sand it, right?
The striping is somewhat inevitable. Different filaments and different print temperatures will make it more/less obvious and change the character of the finish. Different slicers and slicer settings will change the exact pattern.

Most of the difference between the ideal and yours is the filament they used, and probably temp tweaks (looks like a lower-temp print).

So my family all got together and bought me an Anycubic Photon. But they forgot the resin. Do all resins work in the Photon? Is Anycubic Plant-based UV Resin good?

Second question : how to dispose of the isopropyl alcohol wash when it gets saturated? Expose to UV so any suspended resin precipitates, filter out the particles ?

Last question : any good discord for some initial hand holding?

don't mind me, just being the chaddest MC on a Nintendo console since Ike

>>1740284
...so where's the vid of the hot glue?

I haven't printed any human looking models so far, was thinking of starting with this Witcher
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3251737

Is there something in particular to know?

Should I get the Ender 3 or the Ender 3 pro?

>>1740336
Pro if that still leaves you with money for upgrades and filament.

>>1740338
upgrades? like what?

>>1740339
>Print bed
>Extruder
>Fans & ducting
>Enclosure
>New board
>Autoleveling
>Octoprint
>Nozzles
>Capricorn tube
>Stepper dampers
You don't need any of this to get started printing, but if you run into specific issues one of these upgrades may be the solution. Cheap printers like the E3 are very popular starting points for modding to the point where you can hardly recognise them anymore.

>>1740341
alright that sounds great

>>1740341
i thought the E3 was good out of the box ?

>>1740345
Just because it's good enough out of the box doesn't mean it's perfect for everybody. That, and even if it ain't broke, people still want to fix stuff untill it is. Welcome to /diy/.

Is there some general consensus on how filement color affects bed adhesion and other properties?
My PLA filements that came with my Creality CR-X were red and yellow and the red one never warped at 60 degree bed temp but the yellow one is barely printable because of exessive warling and bad bed adhesion even at 80 degree bed temp.

Thinking about buying red and blue r-real PLA filement next

>>1740341
you use tmc drivers or higher stepping resolution, dont try to fake a solution with dampeners unless you know the cost.
dampeners are valid for hyper cheap people with an a8 but shilling stepper "smoothers" is a worse crime. 5db for 3$ on an ender 3, if you can hear it in another room this should stop it at a backlash cost you wouldn't notice on a printer like the ender.

>>1740336
Pro, unless you don't mind your printer bursting into flames.

>>1740341
And bed springs, which is the one essential upgrade for the Ender 3.

Does anybody have experience with Atomic's carbon fiber PETG?
How different is it to print compared to normal PETG?
Is there anything l need to tweak in my slicer to properly print this stuff?
Is it as good as some people make it out to be or should l consider Nylon?
l have an Ender 3 btw.

Is abs toxic? I want to print my bugchaser bf a foxtail buttplug for christmas uwu

>>1740435
go away

>>1740435
Nothing 3D printed is body-safe without at least some post processing. All sorts of things WILL get trapped in between the layers, so you'll need to at the very least sand it and either acetone-smooth or coat it in a varnish/lacquer.

>>1740458
bruh it's a shitpost

>>1737578
>filtering
Do you use an enclosure for your printer? How do you remove toxic fumes and nanoparticles?
My printer gave me a slight headache, although the window was open and it was PLA :/
I'm thinkgen about building a fume extractor to put the air through a charcoal filter and release itt via a hose through a window.

>>1740463
>My printer gave me a slight headache, although the window was open and it was PLA :/
PLA is nontoxic and has no toxic fumes/nanoparticles. You're a hypochodriac; you ought to go get that checked.

>>1740463
>toxic fumes and nanoparticles?
you shouldn't listen to greta thun(((berg))) so much.

people work in injection molding shop with ABS for years without problems.

>>1740463
You are sterile now and won't procreate.
Congrats, you can go full wizard now.

>>1740471
You shouldn't listen to Fox """"News"""". At all.

>>1739691
I think i'll go for a DIY prusa clone + trinamic board + a 24V CE/ROHS power supply, cant go wrong with that i guess ?

How do I stop ABS from clogging the nozzle? My hotend is at 290 and I still can't get it to extrude consistently.

>>1740507
>My hotend is at 290
Christ, man, you're probably charring it at that point. Either you've got shit ABS, your temperatures are being reported wrong, or you're degrading the hotend itself if you don't have an all-metal one. Do a cold pull or 7 and see if you can extrude at 240 or so.

>>1740506
go 32bit, choose a web interface if you want (prefer duet and octopi)
I want to go 24 volt, but my bed is too large and costly to upgrade; relay+mains upgrade needs to be done first.

I'm confused about all metal extruders
>/ck/ knows ptfe degrades as it reaches 500 degrees, but its constantly seasoned (covered in polymerized material)
>stainless is known as being the best since it cant rust, transfers heat ok (when with an aluminum core) and is great over carbon/cast iorn for temp control
e3d knows copper is the best for temp control, but why is hardened carbon steel used if you can harden stainless steel(they have to coat the nozzle for christ's sake), why are stainless heatbrakes preferred over ptfe (I know filament oilers exist, but isn't that for gears or bowden tubes? its not like you're seasoning the hot end in an oven) if you want less sticking for the extruder motors, and has corning gotten involved with some visions glass nozzles? I could see a pyroceram or borosilicate nozzle (as opposed to zirconia ceramic or tempered soda) being made with ideal features for certain extruder types.

>>1740521
>ptfe degrades as it reaches 500 degrees
500 degrees Fahrenheit. Which is 260C, which some people print at.

What are some 2 component resins that i cast then glue it to ABS? The stronger the joint the better.

I have a part that can be customized, but 90% of it is a fixed design. I plan to print the customized bits, the fixed bits of the design will be molded in silicone then glued onto the custom bits.

>>1740545
Smooth-Cast 300
JB Weld

>>1740483
>won't procreate
heh, joke's on you, I didn't procreate anyways.
>>1740471
Well, I know a guy who got fucked up by Isocyanates, he can't sleep on a regular mattress anymore (or stay in the same room) because they are made of polyurethane. While that's besides the point, it should serve you as a warning not to underestimate certain chemicals.
>inb4 le epic dihydrogenmonoxide joke
>>1740469
Well, look at that chart, will you ;-)
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983

>>1740559
>Well, look at that chart, will you ;-)
According to the protocol they were using *you* count as a source of VOCs. They do not distiguish between harmful and harmless.
So, better be careful next time you make toast dude, that toaster is putting out VOCs! If you can smell it, it must be killing you!

>>1740568
"Lactide"
heh.
"Your printer smells.... tired"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXzuMHtgagU
why is it so bad?
this design has some possibilities

Anyone has any tips how to get PETG to stick to build plates real good? I have a print that's 220mm x 180mm and getting the first layer to stick is a major pain, the issue is not only that the first layer sometimes doesn't stick, but as the print progresses the edges sometimes get torn off due to warping even when using brims.
I tried gluesticks, and both the stock ender 3 buildtack and coated glass plate

>>1740609
I print my PETG the same way I print PLA, on a flexible steel plate with a PEI coating. Perfect prints every time, and even PETG is easy to remove since all you need to do is wait for the plate to cool down and then flexing it.

>>1740559
Almost all of those are completely harmless. Glycerin? Ethanol? Acetic acid? Propylene Glycol? Seriously? This is being bandied about as proof that the 3D printers are going to kill us all?

>>1740638
Known to cause cancer in the state of California.

>>1740669
>California
Safe outside of California? God bless!

>>1740521
Like >>1740523 said, you might want to go over 260C, like for Nylon. Nylon layer adhesion is best close to 300C / 572F which will burn out your ptfe.
Common stainless can't be hardened. The ones that can tend towards the exotic (aerospace, etc.) and don't give great results, desu.
You aren't going to season ptfe in an extruder, and if you do manage to get a coat of polymerized oil on the surface, you will reduce the internal diameter of the tube without creating a decent thermal barrier anyway, and now you have poly-oil instead of ptfe as your non-stick surface, which will suck.
Steel (stainless or not) is popular for heat-breaks because it does not conduct heat well. Steel has a thermal conductivity (W/m K) of around 50, compared to Aluminum at 205 and copper at 385. This is also why steel nozzles suck. They can't transfer enough heat into the melt chamber and without heat the melt un-melts and you clog.
Glass is sticky AF, which is what makes glass build plates so good. So a glass extruder would not extrude well, if at all.

>tfw your model is so abused it wont even let you project face

>>1740156
Go to the "3DPrintingPro"'s YouTube channel and watch his series about supporting models with Chitubox. Learn manual support placement, practice it, live it. If you rely on software to make decisions for you you're going to waste so much fucking resin and your prints will look like shit.

So I'm printing parts to convert my CR-10S into an all in one and I need to print pieces to hold the power supply and the circuit board to the lower extrusions. Would printing in PLA+ be ok to use heat wise or would it warp from the heat put off by the power supply?

>>1740575
>why is it so bad?
I guess because of limitations due to smal size and hobbyking servos.
Here is a better implementation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=166&v=lb3Riq06fVI&feature=emb_logo

>>1740345
>i thought the E3 was good out of the box ?
It is for roughly 6 months. Then stuff starts to break

I'm trying to setup Marlin 2.0 for my printer but I have a movement problem.
On homing I get about one second of grinding on each axis. after that initial second the homing move works as intened. I do not have any problems with regular moves, its on homing only. Reducing homing speed does not help even when set unreasonably low. I can't find a setting to reduce acceleration for homing moves.

New Thread >>1740868