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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1732137 No.1732137 [Reply] [Original]

Does Milwaukee make good hand tools?

>> No.1732141

>>1732137
>post pics of POWER tools
>Calls them hand tools
Get back in the kitchens, missus, and let the men talk.

>> No.1732150
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1732150

>>1732137
They have that 3/8” socket set on sale at Home Depot for $99 and it was tempting just to try.

They’re nice, and they put a lot of thought into most of their stuff (like the flat spots on the sockets so they don’t roll away), but it’s fuckin expensive for Chinese tools. They put a couple extra steps on a lot of their tools though.

While we’re here, does anybody know who is manufacturing that stuff? TTI is an electronics company so I’m assuming somebody else is making the hand tools, but they don’t look like the Apex/GW stuff and I don’t think SB&D would built it and compete with their own DeWalt tools.

>> No.1732186

>>1732137
Some. Their new aluminum body chalkline is goat and their sharpies are cheap as dirt. I also like their folding rule(it has detents to lock at ~90°, good enough for what I use it for). They've only recently been getting into hand tools but they have some neat gimmicks. I love the idea of the finger stop on their tape measure, however it's too bulky and has a smaller, weaker blade than fatmax so I would never buy one.

>> No.1732203

>>1732150
Are those flats and the red plastic the reason for the price?
Haven't seen that before, might grind a flat spot on my cheap sockets so I have to crawl around to chase sockets when under the truck.

>> No.1732265
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1732265

>> No.1732269
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1732269

>>1732203
They have a real fancy chrome finish too, they’re nice looking. And it’s part of the whole Packout system, the DeWalt extension set I just got for the GF’s dad is like that too so you can stack everything on one of their rolling boxes.

I can’t figure out why the Milwaukee tool bags cost $150 either, their levels are stupid expensive too. But I know whoever is manufacturing the tools is making them specifically for Milwaukee, so it’s not a Chinesium mold they used to make Pittsburgh stuff earlier that day. I guess $99 for that 3/8 socket set isn’t too bad, and that was a sale price, so maybe it will come down a little and that was mostly the R&D/ new lightning bolt hype to get the money while they can, some tools like their pliers aren’t cheap but also aren’t nearly as bad as the competition. At $150 for the set though, they might as well charge an extra $50 and have it manufactured in the US, and I would rather pay $200 for a US Milwaukee socket set than $150 for an Asian Milwaukee set.

Oh and the handles on the pliers are nice, that’s why I’m considering the 6” diagonal cutters from them. I know you can ream conduit with some part of those pliers, something sparkies might love. The bare part on the bottom is probably so they don’t get chewed up. I might try some of their screwdrivers too. Their stuff isn’t always the best, but everything I have used has been really good for Asian made Home Depot tools.

>> No.1732276

>>1732137
I've got a number of milwaukee hand tools. Everything I've got has lasted ~3 years of everyday use, but IMO there isn't any tell-all brands, I'm sure they make some shit too. I know their vacuum is shit, I also have an angle grinder from them that's shit, but my milwaukee linesmans are probably my most used tool, they're really solid.

My coworker is a walking milwaukee advertisment, he's got the fucking battery powered jacket and packout kit and shit. He's also retarded

>> No.1732280

>>1732276
I bought into all red just because I like red. Powered tools are fucking fantastic, hand tools are nice and tough but could be better. I managed to chip a few screwdriver tips through use and melt a big flathead cleaning out a cad welding pot, but still buying red.

>> No.1732286

>>1732280
yeah i feel that. I don't really have the money or interested in buying several fucking screwdriver brands to see which one lasts the longest. It seems nice to just pay the extra 5 dollars for the milwaukee one but I really don't want to be a red slave.

That said, I don't know too much about drill specs, but I've got a makita for work thats ~ the same price range as my new milwaukee hammer/drill/driver, and this thing absolutely smokes the makita. I can get through a concrete wall in literally 1/4 the time. As of right now my impression is that red makes the best stuff, I just don't want to be branded. Klein also makes really excellent tools for my line of work. Still got my eye on hilti tho if I ever end up not being poor

>> No.1732349 [DELETED] 
File: 904 KB, 1105x1179, 1575672264549.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1732349

Tools for Chads

>> No.1732438
File: 26 KB, 425x425, milw torq.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1732438

>>1732137
these things are great all you need is a slotted screwdriver to torq it down when need to.
other types you need an allen wrench

>> No.1732958

>>1732286
If you're into Klein, you must be a sparky. Milwaukee makes decent quality sparky tools, but the golden standard is Klein even though they're expensive and look like a cobbled together set because they're all fucking different colors.

If I needed to buy a new set of screwdrivers and I didn't already have my reds, I might look at the Wera brand; good quality German hand tools and even come in 1000v varieties for working hot. If you're union, don't bother with insulated though, they don't let you work hot 99.9% of the time unless it's like an active wing of a hospital that needs repairs and you're the foreman/crusty old timer on the team.

>> No.1732962

>>1732958
>but the golden standard is Klein

No its not
PB Swiss is, Klein barely makes the list

>> No.1732983

>>1732958
close, a/v installer. Still run a lot of cable though. Been lookin at Wera and Wiha for a while now. My screwdriver still works fine though. I wish I was union, I almost die everyday

>> No.1732985

>>1732286
Milwaukee hand tools aren't anything special really.

>> No.1732987

>>1732962
homegamer detected

>> No.1733098

>>1732958
There’s a reason they’re all different colors, you don’t have to pull 4 different pliers from your bag before you find the crimpers you need.

>> No.1733199

>>1732983
A buddy of mine does that, but owns the business and does repair work as well. He told me he gets most of his install work subcontracted from Best Buy, and repair work from individuals, but mostly, he sits on his ass and plays videogames at his office.

>> No.1733210

>>1732987
>buying Klein after 2008
>he listens to the boomer at the worksite who only buys the most expensive shit he could find at home depot

Yikes

>> No.1733277

>>1733210
Klein is probably the best brand you can buy at a big box store in the US, and the lifetime warranty is honored by that big box store. There might be marginally better tools out there but nobody else offers that.

>> No.1733412

>>1733199
incredible. Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think Best Buy subs do a lot of what my industry does. A typical job for us is like, 40 or so cat6 lines ran ~120' splitting off into several rooms on the way, down the drywall and out pass throughs to go into displays, projectors, cameras, whatever. Lots of rack cable management, hanging massive projectors really high up with a lift, electric automated projector screens. But a huge part of the industry is control processing/audio DSP. We've got "programmers" who know how to configure a few different brands proprietary control processing software, usually interacted with by the end user via a little touch panel. It's piss easy but you just need experience because it's absolutely nothing like actual programming. I don't imagine BestBuy being an authorized Crestron vendor or even have guys that do anything besides hang TVs, but maybe I'm dead wrong. It's a good industry IMO. Some higher level techs pull 6 figures

>> No.1733447
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1733447

>>1733277
>not Ideal

Come on negron

>> No.1734018

I like Milwaukee's hand tools because they generally sit at a mid tier between Chinese garbage and the good shit and the prices are fair. Their measuring tapes are durable, I dropped one down 4 stories of elevator shaft and scaffolding and it still works. Their linemans are okay, the fish tape puller should be bigger because the tape slips into the crimper way too easily.

Milwaukee fastbacks are the ultimate utility knife tho

>> No.1734051

>>1732269
The bare part on the bottom is for knocking out holes in j-boxes and such. Also you’re a worthless retard

>> No.1734058

>>1734051
I knocked a hole in you’re mom’s j-box last night if ya know what I mean.

>> No.1735760

Every company has tools they are good at and tools they just aren't. Milwaukee has come up a lot with their power tools of late. I'm a plumber and my Milwaukee tools have actually held up despite getting drenched in water like all my tools. I usually use their swazalls, impact gun, propress machines, etc. And I really like them. However I think Bosch has the best hammer drills, and i think Dewalt is nothing to sleep on when it comes to power tools either.
Hand tools are another story though. I use Channel Locks, Lennox 6 in 1s, and a variety of other different hand tools from different companies. A lot of it is just trying different things out and having your own opinions. If you are just a homeowner I'd recommend basic stuff like Black and decker, Ryobi, Craftsmen. Assuming you're on a budget I wouldn't blow my money on fancy tools I would only use a few times here and there. Not worth it.

>> No.1735761

>>1732958
>>1735760
Adding to spark anon, I like Kleins nutdrivers. They have a pretty good 6 in 1 but I prefer Lennox.

>> No.1736373

>>1735761
Sparky here

>klein 11 in 1
>klein wire strippers
>milwaukee 12v impact
>cheap kobalt folding box cutter
>klein diagonal cutters
>some snap on needlenose pliers from 40 years ago that my grandfather used when he was a sparky

Generally thats i'll throw in my pouch for residential work.

>> No.1736837

>>1736373
Do you keep a multimeter or NCV with ya? I’m always impressed with the handyman dude who does shit on my house I don’t want to do. It’s like 2 screwdrivers, NCV, and a couple other little things and he barely ever has to go to his truck for more stuff on random household repairs. I want to mimic that to keep in my car.

>> No.1736956

>>1732958
>Union doesn't let you work hot

I'm a first-year apprentice and I've had to put hands in a hot panel three times this month.

>> No.1736970
File: 10 KB, 350x350, Milwaukee Fastback.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1736970

>>1732137
They make the One utility knife to Rule Them All.

>> No.1737283

Milwaukee bit holder magnets are strong. Makita bit holder magnets are STRONG. The Milwaukee bits hold up very well for off the shelf Chinesium.

>> No.1737341
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1737341

>>1737283
I like their bits too. I bought a cheap HF 6” bit holder and it fucking sucks, got the Milwaukee and it feels like it’s held in by a pin or some other locking mechanism.

DeWalt bits are decent, especially since they’re always on sale, but those Milwaukee Shockwaves seem a level above.

I also like this Milwaukee set because that little kit plus a 12V drill or impact driver allows you to do tons of shit around the house, you don’t need a case of drill bits and a 2nd case of driver bits.

I still gotta try some of those Wiha power bits, it’s hard to find long bits that don’t have a 1/4” shank leading down to a T10, you can’t fit them in any recessed holes.

>> No.1737366

>>1732137
My bro highly trained and paid heavy machinery diesel mechanic. He swears by them.

>There's no need to panic
>i am a mechanic!

>> No.1737376

>>1736970
naw i hate how the blade is still exposed in that notch when its closed.

>> No.1737397

>>1737376
It’s nearly impossible to accidentally cut something with the little shrink wrap/ seat belt cutter.

>> No.1737508
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1737508

>>1736956
>3 times
>He isn't a maintenance Chad who only works hot

>> No.1737532

>>1732186
marksall (sp?) 'sharpie'
can confirm these are nice
bonus points for hardhat clip built into cap

>> No.1737809

>>1737376
Bruh they have models without that shit too.

>> No.1738200

>>1735760
This. Fellow plumber. Copper cutters had me sold.

>> No.1738223

>>1732137
They used to. Now their stuff is cheap Chinese junk painted red. I bought a Milwaukee drill set at Orange Box, drill worked a month then trigger died on it. They exchanged it and gave another battery. Two of my four batteries after six months will only hold a charge long enough to put a couple screws in.

>> No.1739187

>>1738223
Never leave batteries in chargers. Charge them to only 80% and never let them run down to below 20%. Never run your cordless tools hard enough to get the battery hot (or warm...the cells inside are much hotter). Quick charging utterly destroys batteries... Plan your work a day or two ahead to bring your batteries up to 80% so you're ready to go. Most reviews test new tools, and only for the first few hours. Manufacturers know this, so everything you get after its 24-hour design lifetime is pure gravy.

This is all just basic li-ion care and feeding. It's the same or similar for almost all cell chemistries.

>> No.1739190

>>1738223
>complaining about country of origin

Post discarded boomer.

>> No.1739192

>>1739187
>This is all just basic li-ion care and feeding.
And Its all wrong.

With UNPROTECTED cells, undervolting and overvolting are bad for Li-Ion
Too bad there is a protection circuit built into both the battery and the charger that keeps it from doing that. Keeping it tended on a charger will not hurt the battery one bit. Running it down till the tool stops working wont hurt it one bit.
Charging it fully wont hurt it one bit

Baffling

>> No.1739208

>>1739192
> won't hurt it one bit

Sadly, it does, unless you figure that sub 1-year lifespans at $100 a pop doesn't hurt (or you work for, or are a battery shill)

Everything I said has been known for decades and has been researched, tested and re-tested. Most recently, it was tested on cell phone battery and charging systems and also found to still hold true. Do some research.

Here is some homework: VW and Tesla are at around $100 per kWh for batteries. How much does your .1 kWh pack cost?

>> No.1739236

>>1739208
>Do some research.

Im just too retarded to find all that stuff. Can you spoonfeed us all this damning research?

I just figured that the batteries in my power drill using the same protection technology thats been honed for the last 20 years in laptop batteries would be enough to keep batteries from dying right away. My thinkpad needed new batteries after 5 years of daily discharging them.

You know, since Milwaukees M18 batteries havent actually been around more than a year or so and we dont actually objective information about such things!

Maybe I too should put on my tin foil hat and then immediately shove it up my ass.

>> No.1739321

>>1739236
The shit anon is talking about is more like the difference between 300 charge cycles and still having 3.0Ah on a 4.0Ah pack, or running the things hot and sticking them on the fast charger and having a 2.0Ah or 2.5Ah capacity after those same 300 cycles. You’re not going to brick them the first time the battery pack gets warm to the touch, but it will definitely show after the pack has seen a lot of use.

I wish the chargers had an option for current, I would gladly take the 3 hour charge at home instead of the 30min lunch break fast charge. At the least they could put an “Eco Charge” or some shit on there that only runs it up to 80% capacity and does it slower.

Also I was probing those Ridgid 12V batteries and they don’t charge all the way up to 4.20V, they stay a little lower.

>> No.1739376

>>1739236

Here's the first thing that turns up in the google search:

https://medium.com/@lauren.c.stephen/13-tips-to-extend-the-lifespan-of-your-phone-battery-16c2af5ca59f

I thought some of the other suggestions they had would be mostly irrelevant until that guy with the bluetooth-connected battery pack piped up, so maybe they will become more relevant when your battery/drill can automatically post brutal holehawgging videos to facebook.

The protection circuitry prevents against complete catastrophes. If you run an electrolytic capacitor at it's max rated voltage and temperature, it's going to bulge sooner than it would if you ran it at 5 times under.

When TI made early LEDs, they didn't know how long they would last, they guessed that they would get slightly dimmer after 50 years. Modern LEDs bulbs are run right to the hilt to ensure that you will need to replace them. It's well known that if you mod them and run them at half current/intensity they'll probably last many decades. I would guess the failure rate is probably exponentially higher with a linear increase in heat.

It's not a "conspiracy theory" it's just a business model. Batteries are a consumable, like a razor blade. I just rinse and lather once... I don't "repeat" just because it says that on the shampoo bottle.

>> No.1739439

>>1739376
Cell phone companies knowingly fuck the life of their batteries though. All of them want to advertise the fastest charging times and longest screen time and they don’t care if your battery capacity sucks in 12.1 months.

Power tool companies seem a little better with that. Hell, even the fast chargers have fans to keep the packs cool so they don’t become a hand warmer like a cell phone on a 2A+ charger.

>> No.1740931
File: 34 KB, 600x400, m12 bandsaw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1740931

I got the M12 sub-compact bandsaw and its pretty fucking cool.

I have the full size horizontal bandsaw, and I have a deep cut portaband on a little stand. Both are extremely useful.
I think having this little baby one is going to be pretty useful too. It chewed right through some .500" grade 8 bolts and some 1" square stock mild steel. Its a fun little package.

>> No.1740977

>>1740931
Are they really any faster than a good sawzall? Or is it just a more controlled and clean cut?

>> No.1741010

>>1740977
I only cut metal with a reciprocating saw if I absolutely have to.
With a recip saw you have to forcefully hold the shoe against the material or your tool will go flying around and shake you up. Blade can easily get caught or you just scratch up and best up the material you are cutting.

With the portaband, it's hard to explain unless you've used one
The blade forces the material you are cutting into the shoe, smoothly and continuously. Once the cut starts it almost "catches" for lack of better word, and then it just chews through the material until you are through. You dont have to push real hard or anything just keep the tool straight.
It's so much easier on your body and the cut is so much nicer.

Anything small I would cut in the house with a hacksaw, I'm going to use the m12 on. Though i know it could do heavier duty if I needed it to

>> No.1741018

>>1732349
who dis?

>> No.1741030

>>1741018
She looks no different than every other generic whore you can find pics of online.

>> No.1741434

>>1741030
Yeah but who is she?

>> No.1741435

>>1736970
I hate when they put the blade release button up near the base of the blade, whenever I’m gripping it high up for detail work the blade works loose, especially when holding it “whittling” style

>> No.1741658
File: 5 KB, 450x186, blade.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1741658

>>1741435
That's because of the industry-standard notch location in the blades.

>> No.1741666

>>1732150
a good chunk of their hand tools, up until recently, were more or less electrical trade specific.

>> No.1741808

>>1741666
Yes satan, but it seems like lately they are learning that lots of people in other trades are tired of paying for the Snappy truck. It started with their power tools and now you can see them focusing more on the auto tech guys with their tool boxes and new socket sets.

>> No.1741816

I have milfuckee because my wife got was able to pick up two of the m18 powertool sets for 100/ea when she worked there. I'm stuck in the "because I have the batteries I still buy them" mode of life.

If default makes more of them in the US again (I noticed a few things being made here) I'll probably get a M18 to Dewalt converter and slowly switch over.

Have had two issues in a decade is the blade lock on my original circular saw failed and I haven't taken it apart to replace it. Second is a wire inside my sawzall broke and I had to take it apart and re-solder it.

>> No.1741838
File: 224 KB, 462x454, welp.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1741838

>>1741816
>"milfuckee"
>"default"
>whining about country of origin

This whole post is a winner.
Also just so you know, Milwaukee is starting to "build" some tools in the USA too.
You know, if it really makes you feel better to pay a much higher wage to an illegal mexican immigrant to put chinese parts together in a USA factory.
You get literally the same exact chinese tool, except it costs more because of stateside taxes and wages.

But there you go everyone, Dewalt does it and Milwaukee is starting to do it too because absolute retards like this exist. Who knew virtue signalling worked?

>> No.1741847

>>1741838
I'm fine buying from any country where the person on the other end is making a living wage. As you say the tool will be shit regardless. But I would like it to be one where the worker is taking home .002% of the conglomerate net instead of .001%.

Less Americans making a living wage means less they can spend on junk made locally means sales drop for American businesses until they are also forced to outsource.

Eventually that comes home to you. It won't to me as my job can't be outsourced, but I would prefer my neighbors not be fucked.

Plus some mexican illegal making a little extra an hour will leave him less time to steal my bike.

>> No.1741859

>>1741847
>I'm fine buying from any country where the person on the other end is making a living wage

Hey I get it.
All those extra taxes you are paying that get built into the price of the tool help pay for the social programs all those minimum wage workers have to be on to survive.
Win win am I right? Limp the broken system along instead of watching it crash and burn so we get real reform that might actually help our neighbors.

>> No.1741929

>>1741434
She is your soulmate, who would love you forever but who you will never meet.

>> No.1741962

If cordless DeWalt is the best dropped 20v drill in a pool for aboutl 15 seconds and still works

>> No.1741985

>>1732349
Yanet Garcia

>> No.1742482

>>1732137

I have the Packout base and one of the top boxes.

I genuinely like it, the bottom rolling case houses my climbing harness and the top holds all the tools I need.


Their electrics? We use them at work and they're skookum. The one Milwaukee impact gun I got I've broke twice and I'm contemplating not repairing and going with Rigid.

>> No.1742490

>>1742482
Dont you just get tired of this charade?

>> No.1742533

>>1742482
I saw a plumber all set up with like $400 worth of those Packout setups and they looked super nice.

What Milwaukee is it? Impact wrench or driver? If you’re looking at the impact wrenches and want one with power, the Ridgid isn’t going to touch the biggest Milwaukee, it’s closer to the mid-torque Fuel.

>>1742490
Skookum bruh

>> No.1742557

>>1742490
>Dont you just get tired of this charade?

Skookum means tough or strong. Chinook jargon from the pacific northwest. AvE on YouTube uses it if you don't think it's a real word.

>>1742533
It's the brushless 1/4" drive impact driver. I have coworkers who are allegedly career mechanics who use the Milwaukee 1/2 impact driver in their wheel lugs and won't go back over their work with a breaker bar.

I'm constantly having to recheck their work on the tower and it's getting on my nerves.

And $400 for a Packout set is small. I got my setup for $300 because they were on sale and it was just the rolling box base and the one box.

I'll pic when I go outside.

>> No.1742577

>>1741985
based

>> No.1742717

>>1742557
Ahh. If you get the Ridgid 1/4”, are you going to get the Octane one with the power settings? I have the 5x which is rated at something stupid like 180ft-lbs of torque and the thing is too powerful for small-med size screws, it removes 100ft-lb lugnuts without a problem. The Octane is slightly more powerful but at least it has some settings for control.

They actually just released a Ridgid 3/8” impact wrench and it seems to be the exact same thing as the Octane 1/4” driver but with a 3/8” square. If you want something for smaller screws and fasteners, 12v is the way to go.

>> No.1742734

>>1742482
I bought the packout bag and the thinner of the full sized tacklebox things.
The bag is nice, good for holding my duct/serious tools. The tacklebox is alright, use it too hold fittings, wirenuts, and various odds and ends that would just get lost in anything else and I often need and can't be assed to go out to the truck to get.
The lock for the bag is ass though. It constantly pops off and my tacklebox falls off. The slightest bump to it disconnects it. Wish it had two locks to prevent this.

And I also use the M12 impact. It's alright. I bought that bigboi battery for the m12 line. Without that, it was alright I guess. With it, it's pretty good. About on par with my old 20v dewalt impact my company gave me.
The guy I work with 90% of the time uses a 12v rigid impact. It's basically the same, in fact it's way quieter. My mil 12v impact is loud as fuck when driving sheet metal screws. Even with the bigboi battery it's still loud. Though his rigid shit out once, the tigger just stopped working. My mil is still going after 3 years.

>> No.1742736
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1742736

>>1742734
12v impact drivers ftw

Ridgid’s 12v lineup is ass compared to M12 though. Been so tempted to grab the M12 with the sales multiple times but I don’t have a good excuse.

>> No.1742738

>>1740931
That saw opened my eyes to the cordless band saw. Cut up an old swing set with it. Alas, I was committed to Dewalt 20v and bought theirs. Either way, if you work with EMT you need a cordless band saw.

>> No.1742739

>>1742736
>Ridgid’s 12v lineup is ass compared to M12 though.
How so?
From what i've seen
>battery is easier to get out. fuck mil's dumb ass double sided pinch method of unlocking. rigid's single back button release is way better
>runs quieter
>never seem coworkers rigid 12v impact fail to drive something my mil 12v impact could
but..
>did shitout before mine
>bit release knob just feels cheaper
>grip handle is kind of awkward. it's not angled enough and just slightly too thick for me to like. I may just be use to dewalt/mil though.

>> No.1742740

>>1742739
I have used all the colours minus green. Milwaukee m12 lineup is pretty girthy in the hand compared to makita and dewalts 18v handles. ridgid feels like somewhere in between

>> No.1742745
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1742745

>>1742739
I think the base M12 1/4” impact is kinda cheap, but the M12 Fuel looks to be nicer in every area.

And the lineup, look at the tools. The only 12V Ridgid tools offered are the drill, impact driver, goofy palm drill, and the multitool power base I think. Milwaukee’s 12V has more options than lots of brands have for 18V tools.

>> No.1742748

>>1742745
do normal m12 batteries work in their fuel tools? and what makes a fuel 12v impact different than a normal 12v impact? both from mil obviously

also that palm drill from rigid is goat. when the right angle drill fails, that little palm bastard gets it done. I'm sure in about 30 years some new metal monkey will be up on a ladder getting utterly pissed off at a series of screws that from first glance, are impossible to get out.

>> No.1742749
File: 485 KB, 1280x958, 8B306AE7-7846-45B6-AAC0-D6EE73A49BEB.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1742749

>>1742740
That’s because of the barrel battery. M12 and Ridgid, plus the defunct Makita 12v are the only tools that need to fit 3x 18650 cells inside the grip.

I like the little barrel batteries, I didn’t understand why Makita went away from them. DeWalt’s 12V are the rectangle slide packs too, but at least those ones fit on the same charger as the 20V.

I don’t mind the big handle on the 12V Ridgid, but I also have big hands. One of the generally positive things I see on all the tool review websites concerning Ridgid is that people really like their little Hex Grip molding.

>> No.1742751

>>1742748
Same batteries for M12 and M12 Fuel, although if you’re using one of the more high demand tools like a 1/2” impact wrench, the M12 6.0Ah battery will probably put out a little more power than the compact basic 1.5Ah packs.

The Fuel tools, 12V and 18V, are the newest tools in the lines with brushless motors and more power and typically more features.

>> No.1742851

>>1737397
not about cutting yourself, i throw my multitool/boxcutter in my random bin and inevitably the the blade will rough around with random shit

>> No.1744735

>>1732137

>> No.1745117

>>1740977
tripfag, AND a moron.... the trifecta!

>> No.1745268

>>1739321
Not really understanding this 80% charging thing. I own 20 makita batteries (14 5ah and 6 3ah) and they get fully charged and mostly all discharged, fairly regular use and rotation and can't tell the new from the old (started makita 4 or so years ago). Im a carpenter slowly switching to all cordless. Are you 80% charging people using them once a month or something because you're weekend warriors? If you are just by corded...

>> No.1745381

>>1733210
Klein is also one of the best brands sold by electrical wholesalers.

>> No.1745384
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1745384

>>1742738
>>1741010
So cutting EMT/metal with a recip saw is mostly dumb-tier unless you're doing demo?
>tfw invested into ridgid battery system
>tfw ridgid doesn't sell/offer cordless bandsaws because I can't ever have anything nice in life

>> No.1745395

>>1745384
Recip saws will cut EMT/Metal perfectly fine. Bandsaws just do it better.

>> No.1745403

>>1745395
I got a full sized cordless ridgid sawzall for xmas but I'm considering buying the one handed cordless, since it's only ~$100-120, and I already have a shitload of batteries for it

>> No.1745460

>>1745403
I own a the one handed M12 Fuel Hackzall. It compliments my corded full size reciprocating saws well.

Its probably a bigger deal to me because my full size saws are corded and annoying to use though.

>> No.1745589

>>1732137
Their M12 rivet tool has saved my forearms a lot, but the mandrels get stuck in the mouth sometimes and you gotta waste time taking them out.

>> No.1745649

>>1732141
Based

>> No.1745853

>>1732137
For home use, hell yeah. Shit for home use it's hard to wrong at any big box hardware store. For job use, I've gone through a few of their M18 impact drivers and drills, as well as a 7 1/2" corded circular saw and corded rotary hammer drill. Not sure the exact model numbers, it was between 2014 and 2018. I honestly had similar luck with dewalt, hell even bosch. I found their impact driver bits much worse than dewalt ones. They seemed to get all twisty and mushed as fast as the free bits that came in the box of fasteners. They didn't really stand out one way or another to me. Met plenty of guys on jobsites who swore by them, but In my experience they were fine but nothing special.

If money is no object and you will make a decision with a data point of one, the best cordless drills and impact drivers I ever used were hilti. Same for corded hammer drills. I think it's hard to go wrong with a corded circular saw, I prefer a magnesium base. Always had good luck with hitachi and metabo angle grinders, but my job didn't require too much grinding so I didn't go through too many of em.

>> No.1747497

>>1740977
Sawzalls are really best at demolition. Portable bandsaws are love. I have the full size corded Portaband and would buy cordless if I needed it on a jobsite (mine's used in-shop) but my bro has the M12 and that little shit is insanely handy.

For cutting heavy stock, plate and plastic I use 6" cutting disks in my corded and cordless grinders. I modded my V28 (too bad they no longer have that build quality with modern motors and batteries) Milwaukee 4-1/2" and Makita 4-1/2" with 6" guards just for cutting disc use. The recent DeWalt 60V angle grinder looks interesting but I've got shitloads of corded grinders too so I can't justify it.

>> No.1747547

>>1739208
Al I know is I treat all my cordless tool batteries the way you say not to and I’ve had the same DeWalt batteries for ten years now.

>> No.1747549

>>1741859
>All those extra taxes you are paying that get built into the price of the tool help pay for the social programs all those minimum wage workers have to be on to survive.
>Win win am I right? Limp the broken system along instead of watching it crash and burn so we get real reform that might actually help our neighbors.
How can you be so opinionated, yet never heard of commas?

>> No.1747553

>>1747547
Are they 18v xrp or 20v max? The rules are different for old NiCd packs.

And if it is lithium, you might not brick them from running them hard and charging fast, but you won’t have the same capacity after a few years.

I think the good power tool brands are pretty good at protecting the cells. I need to do more research but I was poking at a Ridgid 12v pack and they only charge up around 4.15v, they want most of their packs to last through the warranty period. Not like cell phones that want you to think about upgrading in 11 months.