/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Yeah it was the first ever print. Could it be my print speed?

Also, the printer suddenly stopped printing and began moving back and forth along the x and y axis before it went up and down in the z and then inadvertently knocked the print over. I turned it off and took out the filament and saw this

Could I somehow attach a pull up bar to the ceiling's I beams with a 3D printed part?
>>1715863
>the printer suddenly stopped printing and began moving back and forth along the x and y axis before it went up and down in the z and then inadvertently knocked the print over.
That sounds like you accidentally homed the printer. The ender 3 rotary encoder is kinda finicky and sometimes the selection changes as you press it.
The pic looks rather normal, if you pull the filament while the hotend is still hot it comes out like that, the nipple at the end means you pulled it all off all the way down to the nozzle, which is good.
Not related, but I would check the bowden tube is all the way down and flush against the nozzle, otherwise it might cause problems like irregular extrusion.

>>1715970
Definitely could have been user error, it was just so weird. I was also thinking the SD card may have loosened/knocked loose.
I’ll check the tube as soon as I get home tho.

>>1715970
I've come up with these interlocking pieces held together by a screw and nut, but idk if they'll hold my weight. I weigh 75kg, so that's 37kg each, 19kg at best on each flange.

>>1715970
yeah you could do that
but how about you just drill a small hole through the I beam and the pull up bar with a rope though the beam?

Is non-planar slicing ever going to be a thing or is it just a meme?

Looks like autodesk has been sitting on a patent they filed 4 years ago with no plans to do fuck about.

>>1715993
consider doing topology optimization

>>1715994
I don't own the place.
>>1715998
I'll try that other day, I'm too tired now

>>1715970
>Could I somehow attach a pull up bar to the ceiling's I beams with a 3D printed part?
Nope. Just drill two holes in the bottom of each i-beam spaced correctly for a u-bolt.

What is the lowdown on wood filaments?
I've designed and printed a couple of things before, and want to print some Christmas gifts, but the place I have print my stuff only has a few different gross colors of PLA to choose from, pic related.
I found out about wood filaments and they look pretty sweet. Have you guys worked with any? Are there specific brands that you guys would recommend?

>>1716037
>the place I have print my stuff
What the fuck are you doing in this thread?
Buy a printer.

>>1716048
...uh, designing stuff that I have printed. Is my question not /3dpg/ related?

>>1716006
>Nope
>gives no justification as to why

>>1715970
>>1715993
Entirely possible, but I'd suggest using multiple parts since the force is along multiple axes

>>1716037
I've only done a few tests with this, but the link below is pretty good - prints well with no artifacts, smells okay while printing, feels kind of like wood, and most importantly, takes stains/dyes wonderfully

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01092XXD4/

>>1715973
>>1715863
I ended up fixing it. I tightened the extruder, cleaned the hot end, and reset the Bowden Tube and I managed to get my first print. Could use some work but I’ll get there.
Thanks anon for helping me out

>>1715996
Use a soldering iron and spare filament and literally weld the pieces together, cheapest, fastest, and strongest way to join plastic

Wear a respirator

>>1716127
I've used 3dhero wood filament. Smells nice when printing, but doesn't take wood stain. Prints fairly well

>>1716401
I like that merkur futur, good taste.

>>1716410
pretty sure that's a chink clone
he posted the same setup on >>/g/csg

>>1716127
Sounds like good stuff. This may be a dumb question, but is it PLA based? The place I have do my printing uses a Makerbot Replicator+, and they only take PLA.

Anyone have experience with a Qidi X One2? Guy in a gaming group is highly recommending it, but I dont really trust his opinions on things.

>>1716473
Haven't seen any, haven't heard of the brand, nevermind seen discussion ITT.
At that pricepoint, why not just buy an Ender? Brand name is much more familiar, printing quality is known, and finally, I feel like at the sub-500 USD pricepoint the Qidi puts some effort into a good looking enclosure, which to me means they had to sacrifice somewhere. Can't tell you were they sacrificed what, but in the end it's a chinkshit printer, YMMV. Might be fine. Might not.

I’m thinking of getting an Ender 3 Pro to print tabletop wargaming models, terrain etc.
However there seems to be a lot of rip-off sites- which is the actual site to buy from?

>>1716522
The official Creality store on Aliexpress.

>>1716473
>Anyone have experience with a Qidi X One2?
I have three now and just ordered a fourth. My lulzbot minis are wearing out after 10,000+ print hours each and with their company finances and stability in the shitter I have doubts they will stick around. And the issue that's killing them is both tedious and expensive to fix.

The X-One2 is really good for the price point. But it needs a few cheap things added to it to make it print exceptionally well.
First: The teflon tubing they include has way too wide of an ID, so I recommend replacing it with this stuff. Which you will need a soft tubing cutter in order to cut to length.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/
It will really improve the extrusion consistency and will make removal of filament much easier.

Second: the included build plate surface stuff is crappy knockoff Buildtak. I replaced it with adhesive-backed PEI.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWLTG3X/
Third: I would also recommend trimming off most of the plastic surround on the extruder. Only the right side of it has any purpose (hitting the limit switch). The rest just gets in the way of easily using or servicing the extruder.

Pros
1. Print quality is really good for the price.
2. Cheap
3. Solidly built
4. Touchscreen is really fast and convenient
5. Fairly quiet

Cons
1. USB port on the controller has such a low baud rate that it cannot be tethered. So you will not be able to put one of these on an octoprint server.
2. Build area is tiny (145 x 145 x 148)
3. It weighs almost 40 pounds, so it's like moving around a CRT monitor.
4. The enclosure side panel magnets are weak. If you want them to stay on you'll have to tape them on.
5. The door on the front is really pointless for daily use. I've taken it off of all of mine.
6. The included spool holder and spool location is really inconvenient as stupid. Put a hook over the printer or print a spool holder that you can attach to the top of it instead.

>>1716528
Hey pewpewbro, why order those instead of Enders/CR-10s/Prusas? Haven't heard of the brand before, might change my opinion right here with some serious printing being done with several of them.

>>1716528
Pic of the extruder cover cut in half and reinstalled.
I appreciate that such a cheap printer comes with a full tool kit, card reader, and spare parts.
My workplace recently bought and had me setup a $5,000 printer and it was missing some basic essentials that this budget printer included.

>>1716530
>why order those instead of Enders/CR-10s/Prusas?
I don't have time to build/setup kit printers because all my free time is eaten up by other business operations. They also tend to just be too large. Since the added contraint I have to deal with is that all of these printers are in a small closet with very limited space. I would have to completely empty and rearrange the closet for normal Prusas to fit the available shelf depth, and their mini model (which admittedly is appealing) is going to be a few months late to be of any use to me during my busiest months of the year.

A few other people I talk to that run print farms have a gaggle of these specific printers for inbetween parts and gave pointers on things like the teflon tubing. I'm adjusting my usual workflow to these now and will be working on trying to completely enclose the fourth one for ABS printing once it shows up.

>>1716534
Ender/CR-10 aren't kits, you bolt the gantries on and they're ready to go (after similar amouns of modification you've gone through with these printboxes).
Makes sense given your constraints though. Keep us updated on their performance!

>>1716528
Thanks for the info, its exactly what I was looking for, and I'm in the same boat with size constraints so this might really be the one for me.

>>1716525
Thanks, anon.

>>1716534
Are you in Scandinavia? I'm getting the last parts for my Voron in a week and I'll be selling my two Enders once it's running. Both have bltouch and one has a microswiss all-metal extruder. They print well.

>the cheap generic filament the local hobby shop sells now comes on transparent spools rather than the shitty old solid spools they used to have
>there are even marks for how many hundred grams of plastic are left
I'm happy now. The old spools were a horrible guesswork for how much was left and I had to open the enclosure and lift the spool off the hook to check.

>>1716528
can you take a picture of the board it uses?

>>1716691
I can probably do that once the 4th one arrives. All the others are churning out parts right now.

>>1716699
ok neat thanks

Whose are the MUST HAVE mods for the Creality CR-10?

Also i'm looking after new hotends. Have you seen the one with the ruby nozzle? And the Volcano?

>>1716460
PLA-based, yeah. There's a "Colorfabb woodfill" profile in PrusaSlicer, but it's effectively identical to the PLA one and just changes the extrusion temperature to 200 instead of 210C. I treated it as I would PLA.

>>1716444
Did you remove the protective film from the FEP before installing it? Some come with it, some don't; mine was very obvious since there was some extra film at the end and you could clearly see it was multiple sheets, but I know some manufacturers cut it the same size as the FEP sheet. Try (CAREFULLY) picking at the corner of the sheet with a hobby knife or something else sharp to see if anything comes off.

What do I build to fix my life ? Yesterday was my 27th birthday

should I get into 3d printing
i keep flip flopping. sometimes i think it could be really neat and useful other times i think its really expensive and what would i use it for

what kinds of things do you guys make with your printers?
im considering the anycubic photon so thats basically my price range

>>1716854
>should I get into 3d printing

If you have to ask...no. Fundamentally, there are only three kinds of people who use 3D printers:

1. Model makers.
2. People making functional parts on the regular.
3. People using it for some sort of business purpose.

If you aren't doing one of these already, you have no real use for one and will basically forget you even have it in relatively short order.

>>1716859
initial interest started from wanting to make my own figurines for /tg/ stuff

>>1716861
>>1716854
Can you already model? If not, download Blender or Fusion 360 and start dicking around.

>>1716864
IIRC PEKK is cheaper than PEEK but around the same cost as Ultem, but I could be wrong. Your chamber doesn't necessarily need to be ~100C, just a really hot bed and good adherence - the heat rising off the bed should be good, if your chamber's at least sealed from drafts.

>using IR heating lamps
I've successfully printed PEKK using nothing but the heat of the printer itself. I do get some warping but I'm reasonably sure that's because the heatbed temperature distribution is bad, so I'll be swapping it out for a better one in a couple of weeks. YMMV but might be worth a shot, if you're willing to spend the money on that filament in the first place.

>>1716752
There are no "must have" mods. Most of the popular mods are just shit that makes the printer objectively worse, like the ever-popular cable chains.

If you want the printer to be a bit more convenient to use, get a BLTouch. If you want the printer to be quiet, get a SKR Mini E3 with 2208/2209 drivers. If you want to print hot filaments, get a E3D V6 or Micro Swiss all-metal hot end. If you want to print flex, get a BMG direct drive extruder. Stay away from cable chains, ball bearing filament guides and the likes. It's either pointless (ball bearing filament guides) or actively bad (cable chains).

>>1716859
>Model makers
What kinds of models?

I'm pretty new to 3d printing but for whatever reason whenever i apply the offsets and begin a print they're ignored. The nozzle seems to autohome to the X,Y,Z limits and begins the print from there. Any help? I hooked it up to prontreface and i'm running Marlin 1.1.6.2, Don't really know if i've messed something up.

>>1716854
>what kinds of things do you guys make with your printers?
right now printing some brackets for rail and power strip mounting in the shop. Previously printed some drawer handles and pocket drilling guides.

>>1716854
Parts, terrain and holders for tabletop games.
Casings and enclosures for work related stuff.
And ofc. more parts for the printer and complex objects just to see if I can set them up to print perfectly.

Are there any encloseable corexy designs I can just stick a e3d chimera on? I want to print ABS with HIPS supports

why does my nema17 sometimes snap to the wrong position and throw everything out of sync. Is it because the current isnt high enough?
Im trying to run just 1 motor to isolate the issue and its going at 12v and 1.25a. The motor is rated for 2a is it a power issue?

>>1716854
>buying an anycubic photon

>>1717255
yes the motor should run close to its rated current to get proper torque
missing steps is the typical symptom of too little available torque

>>1717266
Its not missing steps. Its more like its jumping several steps ahead. Im testing with no load and it has enough torque to resist moving with my level thing i made.

>>1717259
>not buying an anycubic photon

>>1717276
>Its not missing steps.
well, sort of by definition yes it is.
>Its more like its jumping several steps ahead.
do you have a lot of force/torque pulling it the same direction that it's moving? You have to take dynamic loads into account when figuring out torque, and most steppers momentarily turn holding torque off when changing setup (like switching direction).

In your opinion, which filaments are safe to print with poor ventilation? I'm living in an apartment right now, so I lack a workshop space. I bought an Ender 3 last year and it's been setup in my living room. It's a decently large room, and the printer sits about a dozen feet away from my desk. The printer is not within an enclosure. I've done some prints with PLA and PETG.

Anyway, I started questioning whether or not that was a mistake in terms of the air quality that I'm exposing myself to. I've seen a variety of opinions online ranging from you'll be fine so long as you avoid ABS and some more exotic filaments, to California-esque opinions that can be summed up as "everything is dangerous and will cause cancer, so you should stop making stuff and just consume finished products."

What are you thoughts about printing with PLA or PETG in a living room sized area? What about something like Nylon? Should I cease printing until I can put the printer in some kinda enclosure that either vents outdoors or through some kind of filter?

Speaking of enclosures, does anyone have any experience with fire resistant enclosures? I've been contemplating if it is feasible to make an enclosure out of cement board and placing the enclosure on top of cinder blocks.

>>1717397
PLA is probably fine though i wouldn't deliberately inhale the fumes
dunno about PETG

>>1717397
PLA is perfectly safe, it is literally just sugar. PETG is also safe. ABS is slightly unsafe, but it's stinky in proportion to its danger so if you can stand to be in the same room it's probably not bad enough to be actively harmful. I'd still put the printer away from where I spend time, away from children, and maybe open a window so any air that leaks out of the enclosure can get ventilated away. The same goes for HIPS, Nylon, PC and TPE. Of these, nylon is the only one I'd actively recommend you try to avoid breathing, the rest are more "probably best not to, but whatever". Ironically in a filament test, Wood PLA was found to be the filament that emitted the most particles, but since these were carbohydrates it probably isn't any more dangerous than lighting a campfire or whatever.

>>1717397
Just get a fan and flexible HVAC ducting and push ti outside.

What does it mean if I have to unplug my machine before every print?
I can set up the same file to print 4 times in a row and it will fail at a different point every time, but if I hard reset after a failure itll print perfectly
Is that thermal runaway? A short in the board? Faulty gcode doesnt make sense because it's never consistent

For a eurofag looking to get an Ender 3 (with appropriate upgrades) what's the best option currently?
I've skimmed around a bit and come across a gearbest offer of $200 for just the machine but is there any better ones out there right now? Should I wait until Black Friday proper or is it normal for it to be around that price from chinese websites and not something changed for the 11/11 sales?

Also what are the consensus on recommended/necessary hardware upgrades nowadays? (I know there's plenty of printable upgrades)
The same guys offer a glass bed and 5x nozzles for $50 more and i've heard there's good addons like the bltouch and other stuff but i'm not really sure what the absolute necessities and the niceties are.
Most printing would be functional stuff and tabletop terrain so the build volume should be fine.

>>1717459
Having suddenly gotten an epiphany of non-retardation I decided to check the official site and found them to be cheaper and actually shipping from Europe.
So the real question is just about the necessary upgrades really.

>>1717458
PSU on the correct mains voltage?

Is $360 a good price for a CR10?

So like couldn't you just do investment casting with PLA?
coat the PLA part in a thick layer of ceramic, chuck the whole thing in an oven, heat up to 300°C PLA droops out and now you've got yourself a nice mold

>>1717504
no, you could get a second hand prusa mk2 for that price

>>1717575
Yes.

>>1717341
No it does this with zero load. There is no force at all. Its just the motor with a pointer at the end of it to make the steps more obvious.

>>1717405
>PLA is perfectly safe, it is literally just sugar.
Wasnt it more like lactic acid?

>>1717397
PLA and PETG are mostly safe and odorless, the rest is either unsafe or smelly. PLA and PETG are your prime home gamer materials anyways.

>>1717575
Bin dun befo.

Who else saw Tom's live build of the SL1? I gotta say this thing is a far departure from the i3. While the i3 is a complex mechanical system made simple using fine-tuned printed parts, the SL1 is a simple mechanical system made unnecessarily complex with a high BOM cost. Imagine paying 1400€ (without tax) for what's essentially a Photon/Mars you need to assemble yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNLnsoG59Og

>>1717634
have you tried listening in between your controller and driver with a logic analyzer or scope
to see whether you are generating the steps correctly

>>1717647
At least they finally released the fucking source. They abused the term open source for their marketing long enough.

I've been using a shitty enclosure made of foam insulation that I have to manually lift off the printer every print. I think I will finally build a legitimate one, can I just use 1/4 inch plywood? Ought I still insulate it or will the wood be good enough?

>>1717647
To be fair, they didn't design the thing; they just bought the company that did. I'd imagine a Prusa designed version would do away with most of the machined aluminum.

>>1717695
>>1717739
Worked for a couple of companies that bought another firm with the intent of open-sourcing their stuff. Working through the legal trail takes fucking forever. I blame lawyers.

>>1717732
Fire resistant drywall. You can screw into it or use anchors to install hinges. Plywood is probably good enough insulation but not sure about fire resistance

>>1717647
You can find used Form 2s for that much

>>1717876
>Plywood
>fire resistance
It's about minus three.

>>1717642
is it investment cast?

>>1717732
>>1717876
>>1717886
fire resistance is unnecessary
if a fire breaks out it'll just extinguish itself because no oxygen lol

>>1717916
in fact maybe have a candle burn in there after you start a print, absolutely no oxygen, no fire

>>1717919
That seems wrong, or all enclosure guides would advice doing it, but I don't actually know enough about fires to dispute it.

>>1717924
dunno, makes sense to me lol
you also get some bonus heat in the enclosure

>>1716863
What software do you personally use?
I come from the game industry and am used to Maya and 3ds max. I started of with fusion 360,but nowtrying to work in Inventor, buts its also not my weapon of choice. Im so used to being very free en how I manipulate my model, but Inventor (and Fusion) don't give me that freedom. I think its because the software is setup to be 2,5d instead off the full 3d. Often the software doesnt detect regions properly (when they consist of many curves and lines) or it wont let me revolve cause of some unknow reason

>>1716808
Print a bandage

>>1717985
I'm on Solidworks, which is a CAD suite similar to Fusion360. You're used to modelling softwares, which are a bit different. You can model 3D printer stuff just fine in either one, CAD is usually better for mechanical stuff and modelling suites for models.
Just remember that 3D prints need to be airtight. You can't take shortcuts like leaving missing faces or texturing flat planes like you can in game modeling.

>>1717985
I don't know why >>1717995 answered but I'm the guy you replied to. I come from the engineering industry, and I use Blender, Fusion 360, and Inventor. I have a license for Maya and 3DS but haven't found a good way to start learning them yet.

>the software doesnt detect regions properly or it wont let me revolve cause of some unknow reason
The likely reason for this is that your sketches aren't closed loops. Having everything in a sketch fully constrained (i.e. not drag-able) should help with figuring out why you can't extrude or revolve, since you have to have a surface to do a lot of functions and (generally) can't have zero-thickness planes like you can in game environments.

It came out too big, i am printing it again scaled to 90%, if it ist too small then i adjust again

I'm having trouble with filament twisting up and getting stuck right at the leading edge of my Bowden tube. I'm using a trianglelabs bmg clone. any idea as to what would cause this and how to avoid it?

>>1717876
>>1717886
>>1717916
do your printers typically combust? is that why I can't get rid of this warping? not enough combustion?

>>1718064
Take the 3D file and compare it to another 3D file of a different helmet that is already scaled to the correct proportion and don't waste more filament

>>1716893

/tg/ stuff, mostly. Throw in the cosplayers for good measure. Anyone making artistic/aesthetic pieces that would normally have to do so through other means.

Not the people who have only managed to use their printer for some gear bearings and a measuring cube.

>>1718160
>His printer doesn't combust

Any tips for printing fine detail models with supports and not have them ruin the details? Or is it more a matter of finding an orientation where the supports are touching parts of the model that don't have fine details?

>>1718311
there is no way to achieve a good surface finish using supports
maybe dissolvable supports

>>1718312
thanks, ill work on the orientation

>>1718311
This picture is nightmarish, cursed even

>>1717503
What?
It's a 110v machine plugged into a 110v outlet?
>>1717458
I've narrowed it down further, it fails evertime I let the heaters cool down without turning the machine off

>>1718311
you gotta optimize for your printer and filament type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TsJOvxQk-c
look at the hearted comments too, I have my own settings in there
also look into the tree support, the settings arent really fine tunable, but you can print them quicker and with less material than the default tree settings.

>>1717914
Lost PLA.

>>1718366
im still using cura 15.04 with a anet a6 and skynet firmware, is there anything i can lose if i upgrade?

How hard are resin supports to remove, like do you need snips or can you snap them off by hand easily? Trying to print this 5cm-ish tall dude but it wants me to add a bunch of tiny supports inside

>>1718389
You can just make another install of Cura instead of overwriting the old version if you're worried about losing profiles.

>printing a wing with PETG
>filament blobs up on the nozzle and drops into print
>nozzle bumps into the clump on the next layer, causing a loud thud and making the whole wing wobble
Is there anything I can do to fix this? I've already tried lowering extrusion multiplier.

>>1718475
Not the best fix, but you can lower your speed. That way the nozzle has time to re-melt the blob and iron over it

>>1718334
There's a switch on your PSU to switch from 110V to 220V, printers can ship with it switched over to 220V.

Otherwise I would check your wires and make sure no connectors are loose or getting warm.

>>1718389
>Skynet
Jesus christ dude, that firmware was outdated when I got my A8 a year and a half ago

There have been so many changes to marlin you probably should update. Honestly though, I would look into a newer printer if you get the urge to spend any money on the A6 - on the 11.11 sale the Ender 3 was only $160.

>>1718475
Is Z hop enabled? It may help. Otherwise tune your retraction a bit more, PETG is a very stringy material.

>>1718504
Z hop is on, .4mm. These blobs are something like 1.5mm tall and rock-solid from the very second they drop onto the print. I've tried being ready with a knife to pop them off before they have time to settle, but I have to actually saw at them with some force to get them off. It's an Ender 3 with Capricorn PTFE and a all-metal hotend upgrade, the instructions with the hotend says to never go beyond 2mm retraction, and that's what I'm using now. Now that you mention stringing though, the prints have definitely been getting stringier than usual lately.

The people on the forums I looked at when I first figured out PETG retractions say you should never need more than 2mm anyway. I've no idea how they do it, I've tried temperature towers as well as going up to 3mm retraction on short prints and nothing really helps.
>>1718501
I'm printing at 40mm/s already. This is actually the first time I've had trouble with bumping into the blobs, in the past the printer ran over them just fine. I was thinking it might be because each segment of the wing is 200mm tall, so there's a lot more material to make noise, and it's wobblier to begin with.

>>1718504
I've moved from Marlin to a duet over two years ago, board swap. The last time I used Marlin was around the time you're talking about, but I was using simplify 3d instead of the 15.04 ver that was bundled with my first printer.
>>1718389
I'd say upgrade the board for 20 bucks and swap to a new slicer.

>>1718455
snap by hand easily, with some exceptions.

>>1718455

Use flush cutters, the type you use to snip leads off electronic components. Not that you can't easily remove supports by hand, but with a tool it's easier to really get in there and remove them from thin fragile sections that might break if you pull on them too hard. If poor, use a nail clipper.

>>1718511
You can go beyond 2mm retraction as long as your heat break isn't poorly machined, and you'll probably want around 5mm retraction for the average Bowden setup. Does this happen only at the start of the print or any part?

Personally I prefer direct drive, never had an issue with it and it's easier to tune. Realistically the extra weight isn't a huge detriment to speed or detail on modern stepper drivers.

>>1718540
I switched to a duet wifi last 11.11 sale and love it. Sort of regret getting the SKR 1.2 and a raspberry Pi instead of another duet for my new Ender 5 but I guess we'll see how it goes. Got my it today and it prints way better than my i3 clone I have at least 2 or 3 times more money in...

>>1718603
>You can go beyond 2mm retraction as long as your heat break isn't poorly machined, and you'll probably want around 5mm retraction for the average Bowden setup
I'll try that then. It's a "Micro Swiss" hotend, which was so expensive I expect it to have been machined by the sons of Ivaldi themselves.

It doesn't happen right at the beginning of a print, it starts maybe three or four hours into the print and then happens maybe every other hour or so. So it's not a super frequent thing, but each time the nozzle whacks into the deposit it hits it hard enough that the print seems close to detaching from the bed.

I've wanted to do direct drive too, the BMG extruder kit seems to offer a very good compromise between a light hot end and not having to bother with bowden.

>>1716700
Here you go

>>1718664
And the meanwell psu model number

>>1718613
>>1718603
3.75mm seems to be the magical number. I'm still getting a little bit of stringing, but much less than before. I doubt PETG gets much better though, I know it's a tricky plastic. You're sure this isn't going to cause a problem though? The people on the Ultimaker forums seem to believe that anything above 2mm with an all-metal hotend is insane.

>>1718455
You can use a hobby knife or flush cutters. Tearing them off by hand usually leaves a pitted surface.

>>1718678
2 mm is the recommended movement in the hot end itself, but a Bowden setup needs to deal with the slack in the tube as well, that's why most deltas have a retraction of atleast 6 or 7 mm

>>1717576
Why pay 2x a cr10 to buy a used older prusa when I can pay 3x a cr10 to buy a new i3?

Better yet how about I'm not paying for a prusa. That's the whole point of a cr10. Also I want the bigger build size for human arm bones.

Why can't the chinese into corexy? All of their belts aren't parallel on the moving gantry.

>>1718664
Neat thanks, I'll have to look into getting one. I need a new board for my PowerSpec Ultra. Although I guess I could just get another SKR and forgo the nice LCD.

>>1718678
>The people on the Ultimaker forums seem to believe that anything above 2mm with an all-metal hotend is insane.
That's retracting the filament at the hot-end. In a bowden tube setup, your extruder gear will need to retract more than 2mm in order to move the filament 2mm from the hotend due to the slack in the tube.

You can also try lowering your print temperature. Cooler print temperatures will make the plastic in the nozzle more viscous and less likely to drip. However that might not be desirable depending on your application since lower temperatures impact other factors like layer adhesion strength. One more option to reduce dripping would be to replace your nozzle with one with a smaller diameter, but doing that can dramatically increase print times.

>>1718813
pretty sure all ulimakers are bowden machines

>>1718816
Is your bowden tube the same length as theirs?

Can you make a glock lower from a printer?

>>1718988
Yes. There's a thread on /k/ about 3d printing guns. Discussion about guns, except maybe best filaments, pressures, or generic troubleshooting are discouraged here because we have euros and others without the 1st and 2nd and the crown doesn't approve of this sort of thought.

My elegoo mars has suddenly decided that it just won't turn on at all or show a power light. Has anyone had this issue before? I don't have high hopes for elegoo support sending me a new board for this.

>>1719011
Not that anon, but what filament type would be recommended? PEEK? Nylon?

>>1719057
>what filament type would be recommended?
PEEK is the current standard for all of the really high-end stuff. Nylon is application-specific and usually fiber-reinforced like how it's used in the markforged printers.

>>1719057
Most of Ivan the Troll's releases were designed to be printed on pla. He says that if it works in pla, it'll work in other materials.
That said, of the basic materials, would ABS or PETG be better for printing an item that has fast moving parts and some impacts? I hear the strength difference between them is negligible. Will PETG warp in my car on a hot summer day? Is the slight elasticity in PETG better for high impact items, or does ABS do that too?

>>1719055
How about fans powered by the PSU?

>>1719059
Isn't PEEK basically impossible to print accurately?

>>1716908
check you slicer settings, there's usually some code at the beginning and end of print.

>>1719120
Nothing turns on, not even the led at the base of the z axis leadscrew, just no reaction at all to flipping the power switch. It did this intermittently for a few weeks, but jiggling the dc jack would always fix it after pulling the power for a second. I guess if it's not a known issue ill try and check if the DC brick actually works.

>>1715970
https://www.mcmaster.com/i-beam-pipe-clamps

Why reinvent the wheel?

>>1719170
Sounds like a power supply issue

>>1717397
>>1717451
This.
Get an old PC fan and a power adapter. 3D print a flange for some duct and you're good to go.

I know this is absurd but I had a spare fan and the PSU was loud.

>>1719444
That is not what I was talking about, that is an enlarger.

One of my stepper motors died...I think?

There is a ton of resistance when spinning the motor shaft, even with the motor disconnected and pulled out of the machine. There was no debris inside when taking it apart and lubing it did nothing. Best I could come up with after a brief Google search is that an electrical short in the motor windings fucked something with the magnets? At least steppers aren't too expensive.

>>1719467
measure resistance of stepper windings. If what you think is true one of them must be near 0

>>1718475
try increasing layer height. the surface finish will be a lot better when compared to pla, but you will most likely still need some sanding/ priming/ filling/ etc.
i cant get my setup to print petg without too much blobbing below 0.25 layer height and i usually print at 0.35 or so.

How do I flash my cr10 max from the 1.6 firmware to marlin 2.0?

My Hephestos keeps crashing into the floor or going way too high, no matter how many times i calibrate the offset :(

>>1716861
>>1717985
>figurines
Printer: Elegoo Mars, Epax X1 or an Anyphoton Cubic are the entry-level choices with a slight edge to the former two for their quality of life upgrades (Elegoo for being slightly refined, Epax for being metal). No real diff in print quality though and there's an Elegoo Pro on the way in a few months with some improvements.
Size means larger figs need to be keyed (i.e. cut up the 3d model into pieces and make slots)
The big deal is mostly that you need a separate ventilated space for it like a workshop, a garage or sacrificing a closed-off room with a window (where you don't eat or sleep) for it since you will be dealing with materials that are irritants at best.

You want Zbrush for modeling yourself (easily pirated) and there's actually examples of modelling figs for wonderfest on Pixologic's youtube account. (he used 2B so he skimped out on the eyes, for those you want adhesive transparent film (inkjet + varnish spray or just a laser printer) or a decal printer or a very good hand with technical pens for animoo style ones)
There's also a shitton of rpg minis to be pirated on the /tg/ vola if that's your thing.

>>1718665
Up and running. I was just left waiting for the PEI sheet to show up.

>>1719981
Those build surfaces look tiny. How big volume do those have?

Anyone here build a hypercube evolution? How would it fare in a heated chamber?

>>1720001
145x145x148.5

The lulzbot minis are 152x152x158

Anyone have an idea that would cause infill to not fill in the whole part? Just bought an ender 3 and this is my third time trying to print this piece and each one has ended up this way. Using Simplify 3D and some marble filiment.

>>1720094
What changes in your settings did you make in between the three attempts? Are you sure that you're printing at the right temperature for that filament? The manufacturer normally recommends a range of temps. Do things improve when you lower your print speed?

Went to FormNext yesterday. Huge printers everywhere, the whole thing was mostly focused on industry with relatively few FDM machines. Nice amount of pellet printers though, I think that might be where even consumers will be going in the future.

Every single booth featured at least one of the following:
>Dental implants
>Orthpedic braces
>Automotive suspension components
>Rocketry models
>A motorcycle with some 3D-printed bits
>Broken 3D-printer
>Formula Student car
>Coffee machine
>Chick with a nice ass but an ugly face

Creality, JG Aurora, and some other chinkshit brands were present, as was Ultimaker and Prusa. I didn't even get to see our God Emperor of printing, how will I possibly be able to contain my S O I gasm without his guidance and excellent proprietary slicing software?

>>1720135
So far I upped the extrusion multiplier by .1, upped the infill from 20 to 30% and upped the outline overlap from 15 to 30%. Manufacturer recommended temps from 200-220 and I've done prints from 200-210 and they all look the exact same. For speeds I've tried 3000 mm/min and 3600 mm/min. The piece is super small though so I wonder if I should adjust the speed overrides for layers that take less than a certain amount of time.

>>1720094
Just had this
Disable linear advance and try again
Itll look shit but the infill will connect
If it does, look up linear advance tuning

Bros do these supports look right? I'm barely getting any overhang indication from chitubox and I'm not sure if it's just a godly cylinder or I totally messed up somewhere, it looks suspiciously clean to me

>>1720273
Looks bad from a balance PoV imo.

>>1720273
i found chitubox was always a bit sparing on supports, so I started using prusaslicer to orient the model and add support then export that as an stl to put in chitubox which is quicker at slicing ime,

>>1720268
Youre fucking with the wrong things bro. Start simple then work up. Try going with a 220C temp and a 56 bed temp and see how it fills. Also check for any wobble in the x and y and z axis just for good measure and tighten or loosen it. Then check your level and do a square bed level test.
As for speed I run mine between the same speed as you hit try to reduce by half and see what happens.

I also have an Ender 3 and had to do some Tom fuckery to get decent prints

>>1720060
Oh wow that’s tiny AF. Is the build quality significantly better to justify the price?

>>1720268
What does your part look like sliced? When you say infill do you mean bottom/top infill or volume infill? From the picture it looks like the first layer is printing fast and the first layer is super fucked up.

Watch it print those first few layers and describe what happens.

>>1720243
Industrial is where all the money is. The "printer in every home" meme is dead

What do you people do about the smells? Won't it hurt your pets?

>>1720389
>The "printer in every home" meme is dead
That meme was dead on arrival. Most people don't even know how to operate a printer, it's only useful if you know how it works - hell, too many people ITT don't even know enough to reliably operate one. Not saying industrial doesn't get the big money (it does), but small scale local FDM printing will always have a place in the market.

>>1720441
>What do you people do about the smells?
Don't print noxious smelling materials like ABS (print PETG instead), put the printer in the garage where I'm not bothered by the sound and smell (much cheaper than expensive drivers and an enclosure).
>Won't it hurt your pets?
If it's bad for your pets it's bad for you.

tfw

>have to install new SKR e3 mini 1.2
>have to finish installing hero me + 12 volt fan with buck converter
>a new BLtouch that goes on said hero me

and hoping it all works

>>1720389
>printer in every home meme is dead

I dunno. The price of these things is crashing and at some point (likely 2+ years) there will be tech that makes printing shit simple and likely multi colored/filament type'd

>>1720476
>The price of these things is crashing
Yeah, but how far still? They're cheap, but chinkshit is rapidly approaching component prices. You need to be a clever bastard to make a cheaper printer than the yellow fellows.
>Tech will fix everything within a few years!
Having been with slicing software for a few years now: no. You're not getting any major improvements anymore, if anything it's slowed down, and true consumer grade printing is at least a decade away. Consumer grade printing makes very little sense too, as very few consumers have a use case for a 3D-printer, you're better off with a few local print hubs.

>>1720476
It's mostly dangerous Chinese shit that doesnt even able thermal runaway protection enabled and monkey tier crimping on wires. The good printers are increasing in price as they try to aim at small business and prosumers who might already have a technical background and lots of money.

That said some of the chinese shit looks pretty nice and I'm tempt to pick up a photon or photon s given how fucking cheap it is.

>>1720497
i have an ender 3 pro and after UPGRADES and FLASHING its pretty decent

However if i would have known about the prusa mini 3 months ago i would have waited

>>1720497
Elegoo Mars Pro soon. Going to be like a $300 improved Elegoo/regular Photon.

>>1720502
Is it a big upgrade?
t. just got an ender3x on sale with little every conceivable hw upgrade for about $290.

>>1720506
is there a non-chink resin printer available in a similar price range?

>>1720511
its a hilariously joke "upgrade"
i think the only thing that is different is a magnetic bed.

also its much harder to flash since the electronics door is upside down compared to the original

>>1720389
>>1720468
>>1720488
what limits the adoption of printers is less the price or ease of operation,
but the lack of design skills that normal people have, a printer is only as good as what you can model
hardly anyone is willing to invest the 100 hours of structured studying it takes to become proficient enough with CAD
that you can design your ideas efficiently

>>1720513
Nope, all chinese.

>>1720525
Compared to an Ender 3 with all the HW upgrades like all metal extruders/hotends/silent board/tubing/connectors/tempered glass bed/better springs I mean.
I barely know anything about hte Prusa.

>>1720513
The closest equivalents are the prusa sla1 and moai by peopoly. The prusa seems to actually have extra features like the bed tilt to peel prints they dont stretch the resin as much

>>1720553
the prusa comes with everything the ender should come with basically

>>1720558
Oh no worries then since I got mine with all upgrades for about $70 less and shipped from within the EU so no extra taxes.

>>1720506
Doesnt seem like much of an improvement. Just claims to have made the build plate better and using a single mgn 15 now. Still waiting for these Chinese printers to get a tilt peel vat. It would seriously be a small motor but the construction needs room to accommodate it

>>1720564
Well that and the inbuilt filter for about $20-$40 more than the regular one. It's more of an 1.5 upgrade to make them the obvious budget choice with QoL changes.

>>1720567
Yea for the price it's not bad at all. Although vocs cant be stopped at a by a crappy charcoal filter so that's basically worthless and you need to place it in a spray booth that vents out a window. I would like to see a real pro upgrade for $100-200 more with actual feature updates, basically a prusa sl1 clone

>>1720577
Filter is mostly just keeping out smells, obviously you'd need to pump the iar outside to get rid of super fine particles.
Rumour is that they're working a mid-budget larger build volume machine to take over that corner of the market though.

if I enable linear advance (which I tuned following the Marlin instructions) my hot end clogs half way through every print.

am I doing something wrong? or is it just that my hot end sucks?

Is there such a thing as "micro layer shifts"? About halfway up the print (110mm) I have two tiny shifts maybe a centimetre apart, where the X axis moves about .2mm forwards.
Structurally it's irrelevant, but it looks awful.

>>1720636
A bit of both. It shouldn't happen on a good hot end, but linear advance involves constant retractions. Retractions reduce the mess outside the nozzle, but in return they cause an equal mess inside. Try using a lower k value, or turning linear off and turning wipes on in your slicer instead.

Built an ultimaker extrued aluminum clone, finally tried printing something tall, noticed some kind of unwanted motion going on along the X axis. Doesn't look like leadscrew wobble. if I put a straightedge across what should be a flat surface, I see as much as .015" gap in places.

>>1720663
Extrusions are heavy if you put them on the gantry. They're light if you use them in a frame

>>1720665
Not sure I follow you.

the frame is extruded aluminum, the z axis (gantry?) that rides on the linear bearing and supports the build plate is a bespoke lasercut piece from 1/8" aluminum.

The X and Y axis are more or less normal ultimaker fare, except with Lars' xy blocks and an e3dv6 mount and extruder.

The print doesn't seem to have any problems along the Y axis, but a wavy sort of issue on the X

>>1720653
probably due to warping causing the print to pull off the bed slightly at an edge, shifting the print just a bit.

>>1720694
Yeah, now that I take a closer look it seems like the rear of the print has let go and is hovering maybe a fifth of a millimetre above the bed. Fuck. It's strange that the shift is so abrupt though, if it was letting go you'd think it was a gradual thing but it's very obviously localised to these two particular layers.

>>1720707
Naw, things tend to pop free a bit at a time, not smoothly. I can often hear 'snap.... snap... snap' as a print comes up.

>>1720726
Well, it's about two thirds of the way done and I've been printing in .12 because I wanted this shit to look good... I guess I'll let it finish and then print a new one sometime in the future.

>>1720734
Well, shit happens. Super duper clean and prep the bed for the next try, and good luck.

>>1715855
Hey guys, I got a Raspberry Pi 4 to run Klipper/Octoprint on my Ender 3 and want to run a 40mm fan. Had a 30mm but it looks fucking gay. Im looking at the 3-pin Noctua 40mm fan.

Does it come with a cable conversion to 2-pin so I can just plug and play or do I need to do some kind of fuckery here? I tried googling the shit out of it but maybe im just retarded. Pls help

pic unrelated

>>1720790
I figured it out

Why is it like $50 to ship the Prusa mini?

So now it is a $400 printer.

>>1720611
Its not even a rumor, their mars pro video ended with a confirmation that they're making a larger resin printer.

>>1720872
Geeze. I could buy a Voron for that.

>>1720790
Buy a Sunon or Orion fan, they are quiet, push more CFM than the noctua and are made for industrial use. I don't have the model numbers but a quick Google search for those brands and ender 3 and you'll find them. One is 40x20 and the other is 40x10..

>>1720885
Vorons cost like $600 to build with bottom barrel chinkshit. 4x rails just for the z-axis

>>1720877
Where the hell is the Mars Pro anyway? It's late november now

>>1720513
>>1720497
Honestly, I don't see a reason not to get the Photon. If you get it from Amazon and it arrives defective, you'll probably be able to send it back, but most things I've read are dumbshit user errors like "smeared resin on screen and piece of shit printer doesn't work pls refund" etc.

>>1720790
why is your skitarii molesting a furry instead of killing it

Anybody here repurposed their 3d printer into mpcnc?
I have a diy 3d printer similar to Toms Dolly, but I rarely use it except testing marlin/stepper drivers, and I could use a cnc for plywood/aluminium, doubt mpcnc can cut carbon fiber at all not to mention the health risks.
Is mpcnc any good or does anybody have experience in repurposing a 3d printer into mpcnc? I'm out of ideas and i cant find a buyer for the printer so id like to either make it a cnc or modify into bigger volume printer

>>1720923
terrible idea
the most important property in a mill is stiffness
for a printer it is lightness
so they really are at the opposite ends of cnc machines
just buy a used manual mill and convert that to cnc

>>1720897
Wouldn't be surprised if we have to wait a month or two extra.

>>1720923
>cnc for plywood
Sure that would be fine
>for /aluminium
Nope, not going to happen

>>1720917
The mars pro should have the higher power uv array lights that the photon S has. And the photon S is apparently a piece of crap that isnt properly cooled enough to handle the 50w lights, so it cant hurt to wait.

Will filament printers ever get close to the quality of a resin printer, or have we pretty much hit their physical limit? I'd prefer to not accidentally gas myself but extrusion printers currently still look way too rough

>>1720957
I am aware it's a terrible idea, that's why I am asking if it's worth it even for plywood (for example making speaker parts).
I do have access to stepcraft CNC and it already has lots of problems, but it's not mine.
>>1720975
aluminium was a fools hope, I did however have success cutting/milling aluminium when heavily spraying wd40 on it, then it went like through butter

>>1721007
>Will filament printers ever get close to the quality of a resin printer, or have we pretty much hit their physical limit?
They already do. Put a smaller nozzle on and watch.
Yeah, you still have visible layers without nonplanar or smoothing, but you can squeeze more detail out overall.
Resin is wonderfully smooth, but if you look close, all the hard features always look kind of melted. You don't get legit usable resolution as small as the voxel size. I can get better overall mechanical precision out of filament.

>>1721010
(resin is still better overall at tiny prints for the printers out there today, but not on a $200 chinese printer. You still get what you pay for.)

>>1721010
If your resin prints look soft it's because something went wrong with curing. It's simply not possible for a cheap mechanic machine using steppers and belts to match an lcd mask with like 600dpi. It's like 30 micron resolution in x and y

>>1720895
Thanks anon!
>>1720918
I think it was from a post in /tg/ where an actual skitarii miniature had a real moth on it so someone drew the mothfriend out.

>>1721009
stepcraft is five times better than anything you could build out of a 3d printer
if you already had problems with that just imagine how terrible a printer based one would be

>>1721013
>It's simply not possible for a cheap mechanic machine using steppers and belts to match an lcd mask with like 600dpi
600 dpi is only 23-24 dots per millimeter. That's well within the resolution of a stepper mechanism.

If you think the resin printer has a realized true resolution that high, I'd like to see you print 300 lines across a one inch width. Pics or it didn't happen.
Resin is really good. But it's not as good as you think. The control of cure radius just isn't as good as the dot mask.

>>1721065
Oooh, actually, maybe it's pretty close. That's not half bad. Not a full on 600dpi, but not bad at all.

Ender 3 using CHEP magic .2 mm layers. Just replaced bed rollers, and tightened up some loose tensioners but it still does this.

>>1721091
>but it still does this.
It makes horrible pictures?

>>1721101
look at the ridges in that potato.

>>1721101
Get better internet

What's the least ghetto way to attach wires to the plugs on a USB phone charger? I don't have spade connectors big enough to slip on over the ends. Should I just wrap it around and thread it through the holes, put a little solder on the connection and finish it off with heatshrink?

>>1721160
Maybe a stupid question, but can you attach your wire to the regular socket and then just plug this adapter into it ? Another option, i think, is to use lug connectors, and then bolt them to the plugs. Don't forget to use spring washers, in the latter case

>>1721164
For reference I'm using it to power a raspberry pi, going to stick it in the ender 5 electronics box and grab power off the cable coming into the PSU before the power switch so that my pi/octoprint is always on regardless if the printer is too - the printer just needs to be plugged in.

>>1721160
Check that it puts out enough current first. The Pi is thirsty, you don't want it to brown out in the middle of a print.

>>1721160
get an extension cord, chop it

>>1721178
Then try lug connectors, I doubt that you will be able to solder wires to such massive plugs - they will consume large amount of heat, and may melt plastic around them, and even some soldering inside the adapter.

Given the purpose of this modification, personally I would install a fuse before phone charger, or even separate on/off button, or both - you never know, how long this thing will endure being constantly powered-on. Judging from the picture - it is produced by some generic brand, so one can expect all kind of cost-saving measures inside, which do not contribute to the peace of mind, while using it.

Actually, I would look at the separate supply from the reliable brand, such as mean-well, for example. They're chinese, of course, but of decent quality

>>1721160
>>1721178
This is dangerous, dont do it. Just plug the charger into the wall and run a long usb cable to the raspi. You shouldn't be messing with mains wiring unless you know exactly what you're doing.

>>1721187
Yep, using a 3b+ and have a 2a charger which is plenty for the load the pi will be seeing.

>>1721188
Would be an expensive option since I don't have an unused spare laying around

>>1721191
I did consider doing a screw through the hole with a nut and washer to hold the wire and then putting heatshrink around each prong for extra safety, still might do that. The charger won't be drawing much power at all.

>>1721210
Yeah duh, that's why I asked for the least ghetto way to do it. I don't want to plug in 2 wires for my printer to work - it's a convenience thing. Eventually I'll have a relay set up to switch on and off the printer using the pi and I want everything contained.

Kind of related, but do any of you know a cheap chinese milling service that does aluminum or carbon fiber? For a corexy X plate and some mounting plates

>>1720990
Old Photon models should still be floating around, though; I didn't mean the Photon S

Saw a guy using blue painters tape for a build on a CR-10. Is this acceptable?

>>1721368
Painter's tape is a cheap option if you don't have a PEI build plate, or if you're having issues sticking to glass (or in the case of PETG, too much sticking to glass).

>>1721371
Okay thanks. Just looks weird. I know people use stuff like glue sticks on glass beds, but never saw cheap tape.

>>1721349
The old photons are kind of bad aren't they?

>>1721336
One of the guys who always posts in rcg on this board here does. You can go ask there. He's really active.

Can anyone blue pill me on the Prusa clones? I see kits are like $400 shipped but either still need the printed parts or the main board.

>>1721484
A word of warning. There are people here that seem to think that any XZ-head Y-bed machine is a Prusa clone.

Complete newfag to 3d printing here. Considering a flashforge pro based on good reviews, that it's enclosed, and appears to get good results for it's price. What's wrong with it? Are there better options?

>>1721434
Not really, the only problems i've seen on them are software-related, occasionally you'd get a bad motherboard in some batches. I bought a photon a few months ago for about 100$ that was listed as defective, but all it needed was newer firmware to get it working again. The earliest models with the blue windows would let some outside uv in the build chamber, but the newer ones with yellow windows don't.

>>1721484
>>1721549
>What printer is gud?
>Redpill me on chinkshit?
Have you tried reading the copypasta yet? Both questions are answered there.

>>1721484
Where on earth is a Prusa-style machine 400 USD? Anets are like 160-200 depending on where you look, and if you can accept a Prusa derivative like the Ender 3 you can get a mostly prebuilt machine for 200 USD.

>>1721566
He said Prusa clones, like actual clones that try use the orginal plans of a Prusa.

>>1721564
Bro, there's nothing in the copypasta for SLS printing

>>1721591
>meme printing
Just buy a prusa you pleb.

>>1721591
Last time I checked neither the Prusa nor Flashforge discussed in >>1721484 and >>1721549 are SLS machines.

>>1721091
should have bought a prusa

>>1721661
fuck off

>>1721665
>t. greasy buildplate from your nacho fingers

>>1721060
Yes i am aware, unfortunately oem stepcraft without upgraded y axis cant cut carbon fiber as needed
I was just hoping and asking what i could do, ill probably then use it further for testing boards and cheap chinese modules/options

>>1721336
Try hobbycarbon and ask them for a quote, also dont accept their first price and barter for a better price, they offered me 30% price decrease after i told them i found an eu seller

>>1721484
The only thing from my personal experience is that e3d v6 original is better then any chink knockoff i had, no stringing and no clogs.

>>1718311
Seperate your models so that all supports only face the seperation area and glue them back together after the print.

>>1721714
The trick is to buy the nozzle, heatbreak (both coated if you can afford it) and temperature sensor original and the heater cartridge, heater block and heatsink from a decent chinese seller, best bang for buck in my opinion.

>>1721665
What's the material and bed temp? Just had this issue with PLA on glass and I solved it by setting the bed to 60c.

>>1721586
>>1721566
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963493248.html

>>1721756
https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/

Also this if you aren't using a kit.

>>1721749
I've had great results with chink sensors and heater cartridge, after PID tuning several times and puting a silicone sock on.
I've recently bought the nozzle x hoping I'll never have to replace the nozzle (as in the next 3 years).

>>1721759
I'm the guy here>>1720923
built the dolly, nice little machine, final cost was around 280 eur, since the chink sent 3 packages together and customs buttraped me.
Other then that, nice machine with tmc2130 stepper drivers, I do want a bigtreetech arm board to test how it works and since the cnc idea is out of the window, probably will upgrade parts to mk3s and try chink mk3s extruder gear copy.

>>1721562
Do you have any issues with z-wobble or resin not curing well on the edges?

>>1721788
>since the chink sent 3 packages together and customs buttraped me
Why do they do this? Is three cardboard boxes and shipping labels cheaper than one slightly bigger cardboard box and shipping label?
Over here the prices don't scale like that, it's like half the cost to ship one large box than it is to ship three small ones.

>>1721819
I've made 3 separate orders with chinks and paid even for 3 different shippings, still the chink grouped it up all together since it was the same seller. Aliexpress didn't favor me in the dispute for some reason.

>>1721785
>nozzle x
What is your impression so far? Genuine curious, there is not much user experience coming from the usual sources.

>>1721827
I've just received it during the week, I'm kinda busy but I'll replace it next weekend and I'll post results. Will be placing it on prusa mk3s.

>>1721756
Trianglelab is generally pretty decent, but i would not expect it to be trouble free on every part (literally).

>>1720273
Unless you plan on printing something like a base entirely vertical, you're going to need supports all along the bottom of it.

>PEI build surface, BLTouch and OctoPi with filament sensor and spaghetti detector
Feels pretty good. I can just remote my computer to start a print anywhere, I don't even have to watch the first layer.

>>1721851
Spaghetti detector? How?

>>1721900
It's an OctoPi plugin. Requires a webcam, but if you're operating remotely like I am you'll want one of those anyway. After a few failed layers it detects that something is wrong and automatically pauses the print. I haven't had any false positives so far.
https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/

>>1721931
Does octopi run on the pi4 yet?

>>1721931
oh nice. I didn't know that existed.
>>1721960
>Does octopi run on the pi4 yet?
Why would you want to? Overpowered, runs hot, pi3 works great.....

>>1721982
>Why would you want to? Overpowered, runs hot, pi3 works great.....
Because I have it already

>>1721960
Not him, but I run it on a Pi4. I get three or four brownout errors a day even though my charger should be putting out enough amps, but it seems to work fine. I also have Pihole running on it.

>>1719684
you gotta fix those scripts buddy

>>1721985
fair enough.

>>1721814

I haven't noticed any z-wobble, but i've yet to test the edges. I guess if i have issues there i can upgrade the light to an LED array.

>>1721960
octoprint is just a python application and it should run almost everywhere if you install it manually

>>1720300
>Is the build quality significantly better to justify the price?
The luzbots have lasted over 10,000 hours each on average. So they're generated six times their purchase price in revenue.
The Qidi X-One2s are managing to average better print quality at a third of the price. I'll have a better idea of their longevity in a few months, but they've served well in a few other print farms I'm friends with for over a year now with no serious issues.

>>1721788
Looks good!

>probably will upgrade parts to mk3s
Is there a guide to this? Tom hasn't updated his.
Seems like if I'm just doing it now I should start with the MK3S clone parts.

Hey lads,
I really need your help.
I'm trying to make an AK style grip, but I need the bottom part of the grip to be a penis.
I've got the file for the AK grip, but I cant find a penis 3D model to splice onto the bottom of it.

I know at least one of you perverted bastards has a 3d file of a dingus lying around, can you please share it with me?

Thanks kings.

Pic related, last project.

>>1722127
I wish you luck in your project to finally purge this board of euro scum.

Anyway, go fish up your calipers and fire up your Fusion 360, nobody is making dumbass AK grips for your dildo.

>>1722127
Because you aren't using a shovel I want nothing to do with you.

>>1722127
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526503

What material would make the perfect Dildo?
I figure abs is pretty poisonous but I was thinking of using Nylon for strength but probably a flexible material will be best for porbing my intestines.

>>1722265
god damnit I miss the jellyfish guy, you use silicone and make a mold. if you want it to be stiffer add a bone into the plastic mold and dont add mold release

>>1721434
>kind of bad
???
Based on what? That's a very vague statement.

If I want to print 28mm WW2 terrain and vehicles, am I better off with an Ender 3 Pro or an Anycubic Photon? Just thinking about print quality first, reliability second, and cost per print third.

>>1722277
What does 28mm stand for?
if its an outside dimension I'd go with the SLA.

Guys I was changing the PLA spool on my ender 3, and when I hit resume print the hot end just rammed the print.

The nozzle then just started cooking, it got up to 300 degrees before I could react. Now whenever I turn the ender 3 on, the temperature just starts climbing from room temp, last time I let it go it got up to 260 degrees.

What has happened? I don't understand. PLA spools have to be hot changed, so I guess it must have been the impact with the print? Is the thermistor damaged? Is it thermal runaway?

I'm super upset i am in the middle of a giant 3D print project and am at the start of a long stretch of days off. I was hoping to make good progress or finish.

I've been marathon printing parts for this boy. 3D printed Warlord titan.

>>1722279
It’s the scale- 1:56/28mm. Just to give an example of the rough size of the models (the average man sized model being 28mm from eye height to ground).

>>1722277
I've had an Ender 3 for a while, see:
>>1722286

Honestly, for 28mm get the photon. It can still do pretty big terrain pieces, but it will look better. Resin bed printing, as I understand it, can be hard work. But I think for minis you'll get more out of it.

That said, I've printed plenty of terrain and a few warhound titans with my ender 3 and it's all been fine. Would rather a photon.

I'm currently making myself a real simple barebones 3d printer, my only luxury is a heated bed and those fancy stepper drivers, would using Prusa MK3 firmware with all of the bells and whistles turned off make sense? Is there some really nice bare bones hardware out there, should i just use ordinary marlin lol?

>>1722314
marlin on a ramps 1.4 is the standard for a simplistic machine.

>>1722317
Would there really be no benefit going with latest prusa adaptation of marlin and tweaking it to fit the machine?

>>1722319
I just told you what is standard.
If you believe Prusa has a magical firmware that will improve your printer by all means go for it.

>>1722314
>>1722319
>>1722324
Guess what, its Marlin with his name slaped on.

>>1722335
I know its marlin but it does have quite a lot of added features

>>1722350
well then the question is if you want those features. If the answer is yes then go for it.

>>1722357
well the thing is that i don't quite know if i want those features

>>1722366
can you list them? I'don't feel like looking shit up.

>>1722272
styrene monomer is a carcinogen. Proper ABS contains only the polymer. So don't burn it. That's all.

>>1722335
>Guess what, its Marlin with his name slaped on.
Not really. It runs the Marlin command set and borrowed a number of blocks of code from Marlin. But having coded in both it most certainly is not Marlin.

>>1722103
I do have a modified mk2s extruder he linked to on thingiverse, but if you're going for mk3s i think you can print the files from prusa website, the biggest differences were in endstops and chinks are selling 1:1 copies for prusa stuff. The thing that I like better is extruder upgrade from mk2 to mk3s, since I do have an original prusa and dolly mk2 with tmc2130 on ramps board

>>1722379
>coded in both
How do you code in a firmware?

>>1722449
As in, I maintain my own forks of both. Though I've done a lot more with Prusa's firmware since I'm mostly working inside the Prusa ecosystem.

>>1722456
I see. I take it back then.

Two years of dicking around, finally got around to stuffing them into brass today. Range trip in two weeks, will post results.

>>1721484
Don't fucking get one. We had THREE at work when I first got there, one of which had a mysterious control failure that nobody ever fixed, and two of which constantly had problems. ABS peeled from the bed, PLA came out blobby, the extruder jammed if you looked at it weird, and my personal least favorite feature - the filament spool is a royal pain in the ass to swap out, so be prepared to either spin the whole thing around or have access to the back.

>>1722127
Wait, are you the same guy who tried to do this for an AR grip like a year ago?

>>1722095
That is pretty impressive and cool. What parts do you make?

New Thread: >>1722570

>>1720243
>pellet printers
tell me about pellet extruders
cheaper than filament in the long run?
higher print speeds with powerful hot and high preassure extruders?

>>1722856
>cheaper than filament in the long run?
Yes, especially if you've got massive prints.
>higher print speeds with powerful hot and high preassure extruders?
Not higher print head speeds (those sometimes have to be toned down) but massive nozzle sizes and layer heights are what give you that huge volume flow. 15mm nozzles aren't unheard of.

In laser/display type resin 3d printer, should the platform be zeroed down to 0um?I mean no gap between platform and FEP?

>>1721091
Try printing a calibration cube and measure it, maybe its overextrusion. If so, do extrusion mesurments and adjust your E-Steps. Could also be temperature or too fast print speeds