/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1700372
can someone confirm this within the new thread?
-stacking coupons
-a8 gets full 400$/free resin discount
-any serial code (printer farm codes)

link: https://formlabs.com/fdm-discount/

>>1700379
I highly doubt any of those are true, more likely just shitposting.

Reposting in fresh thread

What do you guys think of the UP Mini 2? Any specific things I should be aware about regarding it? I know a guy who recommends them, but he hasn't really specified why and it's difficult to get an answer out of him since I don't see him too often.

Is there any benefit to replacing my shitty generic stepper drivers with tmc2130 if i am not interested in stealthchop or sensorless homing?

>>1700390
>>1700315
So has anyone tried to do this? Could it be done with a bigger screen?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749678
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuOsPoC8g8Q

>>1700371
>no collage
Booooo

>>1700415
Use a DLP projector like any sane person.
LCD screens are a consumable in those setups.

>>1700500
isn't better to use uv lamps and mask them with the lcd? dlp seems expensive af

>3d printed single shot 'liberator' pistols

>3d printed autosears

>3d printed sabots and polymer jackets for armor piercing rounds

>3d printed silencers

>3d printed glock and AR lowers

Cyberpunk techno rebellion Is here boys. Hope your stocked up on dellrin and neon.

>>1700500
A new lcd costs $20 which seems pretty reasonable for an occasional consumable to me.

>>1700529
don't wait for the future, build it.

get that small machine shop up and running so real shops transition to 3d metal printing and 5-axis faster.

Some guys over the internet have been saying that there is a Telegram 3DP group where theyre torrenting Paid STLs over free. Does anyone knows anything?

>>1700791
I know a discord that does that for vg and cg trader (used to do sketchfab & gumtree) assets
I think anything on telegram is prob an Indian scam tho, I would like to see a 3dp related one or a /t/ setup

>>1700791
You can find a volafile trove room for STL files in the >>>/tg/ archive

>>1700791
here >>>/tg/68902232

>>1700794
scratch that, the sketchfab ripping is request based, although I know how to do artstation if you @randomguywithoutspaces in there (i dont use the room, just use the tools until sketchfab broke)
most of this is from a russian tool(http://cgig.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=224&f=5)), the scripts are nice for ripping most things from ram tho.
has a heroforge tool now, interesting... might need to tell /tg/

>>1700434
>re-register
>registering a glorified hot glue gun
WTF. What happens if you don't? Brick'd?

>>1700529
Neon I get, but why delrin?

>>1700936
>neon I get

>>1700947
Ahh yeah that's a good lookin dahg right there

>>1700949
https://clubpenguin.fandom.com/wiki/Neon_(disambiguation)

>>1700509

It is, don't listen to them. To get the kind of XY resolution you get from a 20-30$ LCD you need to make the build area nearly postage stamp size for a regular fullHD projector. And the cost of the projector will set you back about the same price as a whole Elegoo printer, is going to be way more bulky, then require fiddling with replacing the lens and getting the focus just right. You won't find anyone manufacturing DLP projector printers outside of diy projects, all the expensive "professional" SLA printers like the Formlabs and Peopoly ones use a laser.

>>1700415

It's hard to beat the chink discounts, so not many people bother making one of these. There's this dude on the Element14 channel that's trying to make a really huge one out of a 4K desktop monitor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PpsTtPP004

As explained in the video, the biggest issue with printing this large is that the FEP film requires much higher peeling forces and stretches way too much. He tried to get rid of the FEP film entirely by substituting it with a liquid, and there have been suggestion in the comments on other approaches to the problem.

>>1701006
doesn't using an LCD get you stuck on 405nm+ resins which need the more active photoinitiators and thus have higher shrinkage?

>>1701006
>It's hard to beat the chink discounts
I've been looking at prices in Chink webs and ebay and to get a 15.6'' 4k printer you'll need arround 250-300$, it isn't much but it is lots of work, 28'' seems too much for a 4k resolution but idk really.

Had a failed print about 22hours in due to filament snapping at the extruder.
Is there a simple way to print from a specific layer onwards? I've gotten close enough on Cura's layer view that it should be good enough.

>>1701059
yeh, you remove the starting gcode, some people reslice at the height, others just remove all the previous layers and make a z+ and an x/y move separately with a heat up (to avoid hitting the print) and use a relitive extrusion for all my prints.

>>1700371
https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/lulzbot-closing-by-end-of-october-lawsuit-filed-by-employee-163367/

Rest in piss

>>1701113
so where are the cheap bioprinters
asking for a friend

>>1701113

>/k/ edition!
Perfect. 3d printed some stuff for my new ak out of ABS.

>>1701113
So is it true or not? Everyone keeps framing things as rumors or hearsay.

Could those ridges be caused by a slanted nozzle?

>>1701326
I am not sure what you are trying to say, but from the picture, i would say it's slight over extrusion. Lower flow/flowrate, maybe even calibrate the extruder.

>>1701342
could be a cura skin issue if you set the skin detail lower than the nozzle diameter it looks exactly like that sort of flat over extrusion.

>>1700371
I haven't owned a printer before but I could probably justify going from a ender 3 to a cr-10, but if I am going to be doing small project like useful/unique items for around the house. and maybe for more adventurous I might make little add-ons for cameras (like a 120 film spool for 35mm) or even printing my own pinhole camera. would a cr-10 be up for jobs like these easily or would I have to look at a prusa i3 mk3 for that? I don't want to spend more than I necessarily need, but I also don't want to have to upgrade because some projects are just impossible.

I haven't owned a printer before but I could probably justify going from a ender 3 to a cr-10, but if I am going to be doing small project like useful/unique items for around the house. and maybe for more adventurous I might make little add-ons for cameras (like a 120 film spool for 35mm) or even printing my own pinhole camera. would a cr-10 be up for jobs like these easily or would I have to look at a prusa i3 mk3 for that? I don't want to spend more than I necessarily need, but I also don't want to have to upgrade because some projects are just impossible.

>>1701465
look into a smaller printer if you only want to print smaller things like that, mb a mostly prefab one, like the prusa mini or a delta for 200-400$ (you could go lower, but I'm looking at that price point with a 32 bit board or an easy single board pc upgrade compatibility, so no anets or ender 3s, although the 3pro has good features, it can't be updated easily nor uses a 32 bit board by default)

FLSUN QQ-S: big, 300 bucks rn, 32 bit with wifi, delta
prusa mini: expensive for size, prusa support, good starter printer if you can wait for it
cetus: very good for price, up software(bad, but can print any material), has wifi tho
cr-10 mini/ender 3pro with a smoothe board (or whatever cheap controller is the new cool shit, I personally use an official duet on a heavily modded flsun) upgrade: easy to do, one-time mod, has all the features you would want
a corexy kit is really out of the budget (and not a good first printer), but if you look for one, look for 32 bit and TWO z axis steppers.

>>1701497
I think I might want a printer that can do over 200mm since if I ever want to print a 120 pano camera, I can (will prob want to try since 120 pano's are fucking expensive)
I'm fine with some modifications but I don't want to be doing any crazy stuff that I would need tons of experience to do successfully or expensive mods. I would rather it worked pretty smooth with only some minor mods that help out.
with that in mind which of your list do you think would probably work out the best?

I've been fucking around with a Ender 3 at work for about a year now. It's been great for simple prototypes but now it's outlived its usefulness. I need to upgrade. Now I'm happy to keep making prototypes but it got me thinking, how viable is it to make actual functional parts with higher end printers? My beef with the ender is that even at some of the "higher" quality settings there's still a few gaps with the PLA. I don't even want to try ABS with this thing. Sometimes the chinks take months to deliver new parts and I'm stuck for a few weeks without parts. It's nothing complicated, just plastic pieces for curtains to use as a guide on a track so that it doesn't fly around everywhere with some wind. Can a 5k printer give me some decent plastic pieces?

>>1701517
>5k printer
Lulzbot just closed shop, anon.

But really, though, if you have that much money you're willing to spend, get a Prusa or six - diminishing returns after that point with no real useful features, I'd say. If you have 10k, you might be interested in the Formlabs Fuse 1, which is nylon powder sintering. If you just want FDM printing, then I'd still stick with the Prusa MK3S (or maybe the Prusa Mini), since they're a pretty good manufacturer that won't try to cheat you or cut corners which later burn your house down.

You might want to elaborate on "actual functional parts", though, because that could mean quite a variety of things.

>>1701514
if I needed a new printer for starting out, I would get the ender3 pro (magnetic build plate, better bowden, good frame) and strap a better control board (32 bit or bust, my last one with an 8 bit was an mks gen L and a shitty melzi board that something like the ender 3 would use, but back in 2017. here's a tutorial for setting up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGN2iSQ5j4))
if I wanted a printer now with what I already have, I'd probably get the QQ-S due to the way it levels (working with the nonplanar github devs and this really is the ideal machine for nonplanar printing), how I interact with my printer, an enclosure is easy to make, and I already have the skype for flsun's warranty claims. it also has everything ready to go, but its a large delta, so not a very efficient use of space for new users, but as a one time purchase for work printing, I could see this as useful.

my first printer was the monoprice I3 clone back in early 2017, and used a similar setup to the modern creality printers, they should be up and running at full quality with some tuning after the first week. mods are a big thing for the ender 3/cr 10 so if you really dont want to touch anything, buy the QQ-S and return through amazon within the 1st month if you dont like it (or just dont mod it, it should work fine, but most are creature comforts).

>>1701539
*because most mods are creature comforts, some old gen cr-10s had saftey issues and had needed mods
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzwicesJQ7E

>>1701529
We can invest money. The boss is wanting to upgrade some of our equipment. We got a quote for 300k for 4 machines in our production and while new toys would be nice we do not need them at the moment. We just upgraded some of them 2 years ago, the new ones don't offer anything that would justify the ~70k investment. If we're going to splurge, maybe it's better invested in CNC machines and a good 3d printer.

We're not doing anything special. Basically we have roll up curtains that go on patios. It's almost all aluminum and mesh fabric except for some plastic components that we get from various sources. If a 3D printer could reliably make plastic pieces that won't melt in the summer sun in places like AZ and CA. The other thing is rigidity. The PLA with the ender is almost there but it needs a little extra oomph to not snap and feel so cheap. I was hoping a better printer could print at 2-3 times the speed reliably with finer lines and more infill and maybe it could get close to injection molding quality.

We had a guy come in and quote us some metal printers back in march. Starting at 100k, back then it sounded crazy but even now I'm considering it. I dont know if a metal one is worth it though but if it is I can easily convince the owner to spend that money on that instead of fancy equipment that won't improve our production.

>>1701555
Consider getting a Form 3, if you're interested in reliable parts that look injection molded; they're even used as masters for casting molds sometimes. High quality thermoset plastics which won't (or, shouldn't) deform in heat, AFAIK. Speed will be an issue, but the parts will look way more professional and like an actual finished product straight off the bed, and even more if you slap some paint on it.

These days, you can get metal filaments that you can post-process to get real metal parts (though with shrinkage) if you're really wanting to get metal, or if you want raw strength, I've heard good things about Markforged printers (https://markforged.com/ , plastic with carbon fiber inlays) from a guy who worked with them for a few years.

I don't know if you live in AZ or not, but as a resident, I can tell you that you'll definitely need something that's not PLA, that'll melt on the first day. ABS *might* be okay during the cooler months in shade, but I wouldn't bet on it. For indoor use, though, as long as it's out of direct sunlight it should be fine.

I don't think you need to go up to 100k for a machine that'll do what you want but you know your company's needs better than I do.

What would cause this wierd streamer like lava flow?
Using a stock CR10 Max with microswiss hot end
.3mm nozzle at .2 mm layer
part was moved several inches from the build location and surrounded in angel hair
Using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMMYSRQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
black

>>1700371
/k/ edition you say?

>>1700529
>not 3D printing your neon signs
Schock off spug face. Not going to make it.

Anybody knows how to fix this on fusion 360?

>>1701692
The edge where the two faces meet seems to have some kind of loop, I guess that's the problem, but I don't know how to fix it. Can't I just join the faces there they intersect each other?

>>1701693
In solid works you can go into the sketch and trim those entities. It's probably something similar in fusion.

>>1701684
thats just led strips, neon is fucking blown and shaped, 190% cooler than the 3d printed strip frames.

>>1701709
No shit Shelock. I am well aware of what it takes to make a neon sign. However I do not have thousands to invest in the equipment right now.

>>1701465
A CR-10 will print the exact same quality as an ender 3 only bigger. A prusa offers nice quality of life features like silent printing, and better reliability, but the increase in quality isnt neccesarily an order of magnitude better, just generally all around cleaner.
>>1701514
Both the ender 3 and mk3s have build volumes just above 200mm. You should consider if you want to keep a big machine like a CR-10 around all the time if youre not regularly going to print that large, they're surprisingly large in person. If you just want a printer that works then a prusa is an easier one to work with, but its also not like an ender 3 wont produce good prints stock too, just a bit less elegantly. Maybe before buying either you should try a 3d modeling program and see if you actually like designing things to print. Fusion 360 is free and if you dont make your own stuff printers are kind of a dumb investment in my opinion.

>>1701517
>>1701555
If you're getting gaps that might be due to a lack of extruder calibration or flow rate or improper slicing. If you want prints that'll stay strong in the heat from direct sunlight then your only conventional choice is ABS, preferably one made specifically for uv exposure. Maybe look for a smaller nozzle too, it'll take longer but you get much finer extrusion lines.

>>1701710
>not investing thousands into his equipment
>not making neon signs

>>1701659
So I upped it 20 C
got 2 good prints, then it did this again
Moved back to shitty cheap pla and it prints fine all the time
Is this just bad filament or am I not doing something right on the bed?

Rate my lamp

>>1701965
Looks fucking retarded really suits you

>>1701965
wtf is going on?

>>1701969
>>1702016
:(

>>1701721
thanks for the tips. I found out my college actually has a lab with tons of shit. from looking at their social media, they have a moai sla printer + tons of other high end to low end stuff, 3d scanners, laser cutters, cnc machine, and other stuff. for $25 per semester + filament ofc.
sadly the hours aren't great but even if I can't make it all the time it would prob still be worth the $25

>>1701721
>>1702064
found more info. they have: Lulzbot Taz 5, Flashforge Creator Pro, uPrint SE Plus, PeoPoly Moai SLA, and a Gigabot XL 3+.
prices they have: Lulzbot PLA/ABS Filament: $0.07 per gram, Flashforge/Velleman Filament: $0.07 per gram, Uprint: By Appointment, Peopoly Moai (Liquid Resin): $0.15 per gram

>>1701965
Nice diffusion, but it might deform over time unless the bulb is cold. Vase mode?

>>1700435
no template in OP, no collage.
simple as

>so much stuff to print and only 1 printer

>>1702271
>tfw can't print that 20 hour job because you have a billion little prints that need to be done first

>>1702285
>tfw you cant print that 20 hour job because you sleep in the same room as your printer

>>1702288
>tfw getting woken up at 3am by your printer's victory screech chime

>>1702064
>>1702073
Man, I fucking WISH my college had half the stuff. They were only starting to introduce *A* 3D printer to the library when I graduated.

>>1702285

I jumped on the Prusa Mini preorder as soon as I noticed it pop up on their weboste because of that.

>>1701965
Rate mine

I can get a new CR10 for $335, should I do it?

>>1702390
Yes you should it's incredibly easy to use

>>1702418
Any usual problems I should know about before I get it? I'm planning to make computer casings and 15 inch monitors. I scrap down a lot of laptops, mostly

better to get this shit (unknown contents) or to get some DCM from a lab supplier?

he has it listed for 300 dollars. he sounds like he would take less. should i?

>>1702336
Thats adorable

>>1702336
very spoopy

>>1702466
The fuck is this shit and wht should I use it over XTC3D or sandpaper

>>1702670
It's some sort of solvent mix; has to be some pretty nasty stuff if it works on PLA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvI_bB3KL2o

>>1702743
Not really, ethyl acetate works on PLA and you can find that easily as acetone-free nail polish remover.

>>1701248
>Brace
>LVPO

Why?

Does anyone have the file folder for those Bad Dragon collectable statues? I swear I saw them floating around here a while ago.
Future gif for the future thread.

>>1702926
Never mind. I got it.

>>1702743
Doesn't pure acetone work as well?

>>1702987
Not on PLA.

>>1701248
Why would you print a pistol grip that already exists?

>>1703050
What kind of a question is that to ask in /3dpg/? I wanted to thats why.
>>1702923
Can use a red dot or an LPVO depending on what I am using it for. 7.62x39 is great out of short barrels but you already know that right?

>>1702961
Where?

how does the cr-10 compare to the cr-10s and cr-10pro and whatever other variants? im getting close to just buying a cr10 vanilla but want to make sure im not fucking myself.

>>1703170
S and Pro have more gubbins, S4 and S5 are bigger. The regular model is the best value per dollar, whether or not the upgrades are worth it is up to you.

I have this issue with my Y axis on a wanhao i3
when printing long parallels lines i get this irregular pattern/fuzzy effect

It must be related to the bed transmition/bearing ,but not sure were to start looking, any idea with this ? maybe bearing remplacement ?

Im not sure if that issues was here out of the box, im only noticed it now when printing big square geometry with long straight line on both XY axis

X axis for comparison

>>1703173
what is a gubbin? Is the 10s quieter than the base cr10? one of the main complaints i see about the cr10 is its noise. how loud is it? the main reason im considering the 10s is i have an impression of it being more quiet and stable. i wouldnt want to put it in my room and have it make sound down my hallway through my door in my house and bother my family. and if i put it in the garage (during warm months) i wpuldnt eant it to be making loud sound at night and annoy my neighbors.

>>1703282
>not havin' the know wots bout gubbins

>>1702437
neat, thats pretty much what i want to do.

>>1703261
Try swapping motors.

>>1703387
i play tau.

My temperature sensor keeps popping out of its screw-in. It happens every couple of months and I've used J-B Weld epoxy to reglue it. Is there something better that won't snap off from the time and heat.

>>1703537
Also i printed this awesome scorpion

The legs fell off so i had to super glue them back on meticulously.

>dont talk to me or my son ever again

so where do you BUY a 3d printer? do you just look a model up on Ebay or Amazon? Or do you go to the manufactrers website to make sure youre getting the legit machine and not a bootleg?

Im considering a Cr10 or CR10S as my first machine. does Amazon or Ebay offer any sort of warranty?

Also, is buying a used machine a terrible idea? The Cr10s used on ebay seems to be just a bit more expensive than a new Cr10. Has anyone here bought a used machine or is it just a dumb idea?

>>1702466
>or to get some DCM from a lab supplier?

depends if you are smoothing surfaces or cooking meth

>>1703587
ali express

>>1703587
Honestly amazon will have the best price on certain 3d printers a lot of the time. For some reason buying from the manufacturers website will usually be way more expensive than anywhere else too.

>>1703613
fuck off lol

>>1703624
seems like ebay is slightly cheaper for cr10 models but maybe that has something to do with warrantys or policies on the website and them need to charge more on websites where they take more refunds?

>>1703587
The only time I'd recommend a manufacturer's website is Prusa, the rest of the time I've heard Amazon has way better support in case your printer comes with e.g. broken extruder or missing parts, or something.

>>1703634
if your printer is fine for a month but then just decided to stop working are you fucked? it would suck to shell out 400 dollars on a 3d printer to have it crap out after a month. might be above most peoples ability to fix it depending on what the malfunction is.

>>1703587
I've always bought off AliExpress, making sure to buy a model with plenty of reivews from a known brand, using the manufacturer's store, and picking a model that already has plenty of units sold.
https://creality3d.nl.aliexpress.com/store/2846085?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.499b245d823AyX

>does Amazon or Ebay offer any sort of warranty?
Generally, no, they forward warranty claims to the manufacturer. However, manufacturers are afraid of bad reviews and will tend to help you out if they're one of the bigger guys like Creality or Anycubic.

>Also, is buying a used machine a terrible idea?
Not terrible, but not recommended. You never know how badly someone else fucked out before you, and without extensive knowledge of printers it may be hard to troubleshoot. May be worth it at a very low price.

>>1703537

What sort of hotend is that? The hole on the side looks like it can accept an E3D style barrel thermistor cartridge.

>>1703681
ah shit my bad dude. ive heard so much bad stuff about that site i though you suggesting i buy any sort of expensive electronics there had to be you fucking with me. sorry about that. are you buying clones of some sort or bootleg 3d printers or are you buying real printer from smaller companies? whats the advantage of using that website over something like amazon?

ive been looking at the cr10 and cr10s and its good to know creality would help on amazon (maybe not ebay who knows) but the reason i asked about used machines is that the cr10s supposedly has a more stable z axis for taller prints, but that machine is a lot more expensive new..but im not sure if spending close to 500 on a 3d printer like that is even worth it for the performance it has.

>>1703721
>are you buying clones of some sort or bootleg 3d printers or are you buying real printer from smaller companies?
Real printers from the big companies like Creality and Anycubic. Well, I've only bought two AC's but a lot of friends/classmates have bought Creality's Ender 3 through Aliexpress, with zero complaints. Buying fake/clone/bootleg models from Ali will get you screwed, as will buying from small companies with no sales records or reviews. If you can find your CR-10 on Ali cheaper than on Amazon or eBay, go for Ali - all the warrantywork will be through Creality themselves - and both they and AC have proven excellent in my experience.

>>1702288
I have to have my printer going while I sleep. It drowns out the sound of my tinnitus.

>>1703803
what printer do you have? i suffer from the same thing but i hear a lot of printers you can hear across a house which is excessive.

>>1703810
Thats ridiculous. I have an ender 3 and you can barely hear it outside if a room when stock, and it's not that hard to quiet it down. Stepper dampers or a quieter board will eliminated the motor noises, and you can replace the fans if you really want it silent. I can't think of any reason why tiny steppers and fans would make enough noise to be heard across a house, but I suppose I don't own every printer.

>>1703810
I have a CR-10 and Ender 3. I have the squash ball feet on the CR-10 which dampens the noise a bit too. So perfect for my tinnitus.

>>1703697
The hot end is just a basic cheap Bowden tube heatsink with a bronze heating block i got off of alibaba for a dollar each. It maintains the heat better and because both sides have no screw-ins I can change my nozzles much easier by holding them in place with a adjustable wrench and using a ratchet for the nozzle.

The bronze also is a bit tougher than the aluminum so you won't strip it as often by changing your nozzles or over tightening by accident

>>1703818
How come noone else uses the foam that came with the cr10 as a mat?

>>1703535
begone thot

>>1703899
>not removing the qr sticker

My first prototype, came off a bit shitty, a lot of fuck ups, but managed to put it together. Didn't even print it myself.

Are there any sites for getting some good lewd xxx stl files for free?

>>1704035
go away

>>1703894

Looks like a brass copy of an E3Dv6 heater block, which has the bore for the thermistor cartridge and the threaded hole for the set screw that holds it in place. From your other pic it looks like one of those M3 screw-in lug thermistors is used, and screwed in where the screw for tightening the heater cartridge normally goes, pretty weird. Why not just get a thermistor cartridge and assemble everything as E3D's design intends it? The thermistor is placed right near the meltzone tto give more accurate readings, you're probably getting lower reported temps than normal by having it where it is now.

https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s68

To any CR-10 owners - how bad is the ringing with the 30x30cm, bed? I've been thinking of upgrading my reprap to have a larger build volume and i'm on the fence on whether to just upscale the moving bed, or start from scratch with different kinematics like a CoreXY or H-bot. People seem to be happy with the CR10 despite it being a moving bed design. I also had the idea to make it where you can easily swap between a large and small bed using quick-fit connectors so it heats up faster and has less mass when youre printing small. Thoughts?

Bowl

>>1704035
can you be more specific?

>>1703899
Looks a bit tacky

>>1703899
could that foam thing be a fire hazard? if the cr10 or cr10s comes with that does it fuck with bed leveling?

>90% done printing
>resin runs out

anyway i can salvage this easily?

>>1704115
no, I use my flsun foam for my al bed (a gust of wind would make it drop like 2 degrees, overloading the powersupply for too long on first layers in winter, easier for fan cooling to work), although it would be a problem if a short happened.
cardboard would prob be better, tpu rubber mats are a good investment for wood tables

>>1704115
also for leveling, there are spring based dampeners that are really fun to see when they resonate, even when its going crazy those things still keep level.
foam wouldn't affect it

>>1703058
I just question that choice for parallax and eye relief reasons.
Also by great do you mean relative terminal effect, or ballistic performance?
I have seen tests of Howas hitting steel @1000m with x39.
But are you running Wolf or Hornady?

I would like to hear thoughts on 3D printed ammo.
All parts, primer components and sabots especially.

>>1703539
Might you print a facehugger?

>>1703624
Direct sales are usually more expensive.
The manufacturer's priority is to manufacture, not deal with individual sales and shipping, better to sell bulk to a middle man and let them deal with the shitwork.
Of course there are always exceptions.

>>1703676
Extended warranty?
If not, you need to prove it was a manufacturing defect and failed during perfect adherence to all recommended conditions.
If it is Amazon you may have luck.
They make so much money and invest it in so many innovative ways that eating even a few hundred high price units is literally nothing to them.
Always ask to speak to a manager if not satisfied.
Be firm, but polite.
Subtly threaten social media retaliation.
Read "How to Win Friends and Influence People" if you have not already.

so can anyone answer this seemingly simple question?

Creality printers seem to be 100 dollars more expensive on amazon than they are on ebay. why? Cr10 CR10s they all are way more expensive on amazon. whats the catch?

>>1704214
Amazon probably want a bigger share. Are they cheaper still on Aliexpress, directly from the Creality store?
Also, the price after shipping will likely be more similar.

>>1704214
>Net worth: US$108.2 billion

>>1704138
Print the remaining 10% and use uncured resin as a layer of slip, then set it into sunlight to cure (you ARE using transparent resin, right?)

fuck your attached image, though

attatched image

>>1704214
The ones on eBay are knockoffs.

>>1704257
that was my initial thought- but these are from the direct-creality-3d account or whatever its named. supposedly that is crealitys official account.

>>1704214
Amazon knows that many dumb idiots will buy them and return them after the first sign of malfunction (which they will 100% show in the first week, being chinkshit)
So they're just covering the return costs

>>1704214
probably not shipping from china

>>1704275
>the first sign of malfunction (which they will 100% show in the first week, being chinkshit)

>>1704387
It's literally true
you can return shit to amazon
now try returning that to some random ebay seller

>>1704395
Returning is tricky for sure, but they're usually very easy to get spare parts from. Getting a bad review is a problem to them, because they're competing with other stores who sell the exact same thing at the exact same price, and if they have a 99% satisfaction rating while their competitor has 99.7%, they may lose a sale. Sending a spare part, meanwhile, costs them almost nothing.

Case in point, I ordered a CNC router for wood that came without a bracket for the Z assembly. I wrote them, they sent back a "can you take a picture of your machine so we can see which part is missing?", I did that, and they sent me a whole second Z assembly, including the motor (which was pretty much the only valuable part of this particular kit), free of charge.
I was still unhappy having to wait two weeks extra because their warehouse guy made a dumb-dumb, but they did try to help me and the machine cost a tenth of what an equivalent machine in my country would have cost. Amazon can do returns because they have warehouses in Europe and America. Shipping from us to China is exorbitantly expensive, but shipping from them to us costs pocket change, so they'll usually prefer sending you a whole second machine rather than taking anything back.

If they do refuse to help you, the ebay support people side with customers 100% of the time, usually that means you get your money refunded and can keep whatever they sent you.

Obviously Amazon is more pleasant to have to deal with, but as long as you know what you're in for buying directly from the Chinese is alright.

Public service alert:
Don't buy the Geeetech "3DTouch". It costs half as much as a BLTouch, but it's shit. Mine wore out after two months of printing, and it was so inaccurate I had to do three probings per point to get a usable number, and even then it was finicky and sometimes needed microstepping.
Got my authentic BLTouch last week, have been printing nonstop and it works perfectly. Single probing per point, and not one problem so far.

I have an ender 3 and lm considering trying PETG.
Is it best to print with the fan on or off?

>>1704419
>as long as you know what you're in for buying directly from the Chinese is alright.
this

>>1704459
just print a small 20x20x20 calibration test something with 50% cooling fan and iterate your PETG settings from there.
You stupid anime girl ;^)

>>1704421
what even is that

hey so will there be any black friday or cyber monday deals on 3d printers or should i just buy one now before?

with the cr10 v2 coming out im worried about them running out since i just want a normal one. cr10 not cr10 v2

>>1704753
Amazon had a deal on the ender 3 during Amazon prime day. They'll probably have something similar for cyber Monday.

>>1704756
do you remember if it was worthwhile or was it only like 20 dollars? 50 is that point where i would start considering it or 100 off. 50 and under i feel like it would be better to just buy it now and not wait a whole month or miss out on buying it at all.

print

My smallest most detailed print so far on the photon.
It is only 28mm tall

>>1704767
I would admire its details, but the picture was made with a potato.

>>1704767
wow thats gorgeous. i didnt know a photo could make anything so smooth. how long does it tak to make a miniature like that and how much would you estimate it costs?

>>1704793
This one took 5 hours

>>1704785
It's really hard to take foto's of things this small in bad lightning. But here is a different one before priming

>>1704798
any sanding required? i dont want to deal with resin particulates but the finished products are very smooth

>>1704801
No all the particles you see washed of without trouble.

>>1704793

The Photon's resolution is actually pretty high, even though it's an inexpensive chinese printer. The pixel size of the LCD screen is 50x50micron, which is smaller than the laser spot size of the Form3, which is about 80. If you're printing really tiny things the cost isn't that high because you're not wasting much resin.

>>1704801

You normally don't need to sand the part, but the spots where the support structure touches the part leave these pimples that need to be touched up. I'd advise wet sanding so as not to get the resin particles airborne.

Is it worth spending the extra hundred on the CR10S over the CR10? Can someone please chime in because while i dont eant to spend the extra 100- if the prints come out better it would be worth it alone in saved time!

The cr10s supposedly has a second z axis and idk what that means. a second motor to move the hot end vertically? if thats rhe case and i cant tell if it is yet, how much difference does it make? on slow prints does it not matter? is it only useful for stabilization for faster printing??

i noticed that the cr10s mentions a resume function on case of power outages. im not worried about a power outage ruining one print. But does rhat resume feature let me pause for the evening and resume later the next day?

>>1704843
If you have the dispoable income to afford it three times over, get the CR-10S. The upgrades are worth the effort if you don't want to tinker.

Standard, the Cr-10 has one motor turning one of the two threaded rods that move the carriage in the Z direction. This probably comes from the Ender 3, which also has one Z-motor - not a problem on the small models, but it might cause the gantry to lean over, it might cause the Z motor to skip steps, etc., so two is usually better than one.
> on slow prints does it not matter? is it only useful for stabilization for faster printing??
Doesn't matter on slow or fast prints given the Z movement is always pretty low. You just don't want it to skip steps, period.

>But does rhat resume feature let me pause for the evening and resume later the next day?
You can just remove power from it, but it's not 100% reliable from what I've heard and you really don't want to quit printing. For proper interlayer adhesion the interface needs to be warm, and stopping your print cools it down again, resulting in a weak point in your print. Just print through the night, that's not a problem assuming there's a proper thermal runaway protection set in your firmware (this may not always be the case with Creality).

This is one ogre (32 mm) I made with a ender 3 pro.
What could be made to make it look better? I printed it at 23 mm/s, 0.4 nozzle with 0.3 layers

>>1704762
It was 50 off of its current price.

>>1704850
Another pic.
I thought I could try using a 0.2 nozzle, lowering the speed doesn't really make anything.
Also, correction: 0.3 layer height, layers at 0.4 (the minimum for the ender 3)

are people printing 30rd AR mags? how are they?

Should I get an Ender 5, or an Ender 3 Pro + some upgrades for it?

>>1704879
There's arguably very little difference in performance between the two, so I'd go with the 3 given it's proven track record.

>>1704884
Alright! Thanks!

This may be a stupid question, but can you print nylon on a stock cr-10?

>>1704884
I've looked around some more and will probable fuck up and go against your advice. The 5 just seems more durable.

I do have a general question, because I can't seem to find any real information about this, which is: does the Ender 5 use MK8 or MK10?

>>1704912
Sure, why not.

was thinking of getting a 3d printer, maybe a resin one, for table top gaming.
Never used any of these before so i dont know how things work but I was wondering, can you print more than one object at a time?

talking minis specifically right now. Lets just say the print bed is big enough to fit 2 minis on it. can you print both at the same time?
im curious about this because usually when i see someone talk about printing minis, they are only printing one at a time.

>>1704992
I have an Elegoo Mars, and the best thing about resin printers is that print time is based entirely on the amount of layers, so if you fill your build late up as much as possible it'll take the same amount of time as if you only had one model on there.

>>1704994
huh, alright.
how many minis do you think can fit on the elegoo mars?

>>1704996
I've printed 8 "medium" size minis on the Mars at the same time, worked fine edge to edge. Mars has a decent strength LED array that gives you good coverage and the Pro is supposed to be even stronger, for what that's worth

>>1704999
These were all printed on the plate at the same time, as well.

Resin prints will get you buttery smooth surfaces but there is the smell to deal with, you'll need a shed, garage, unused room, or enclosure with an exhaust vent fan to print in, and enough room for post processing in isopropyl alcohol. You'll also need a UV curing light to finish the curing process.

>>1704992

It's actually recommended that you cram the build volume as much as possible, since getting stuff printed requires a lot of post processing work. Putting gloves and breating protection on, draining the vat when it's done, cleaning the print with IPA, trimming supports, curing the print after cleaning so its safe to touch... It's a process that requires care and attention if you care at all about health safety, so it's best to make it count.

>>1704985
I wasn't sure if the stock hotend could handle the higher temperatures or not. I've only printed in PLA and TPU so far.

>>1704999
>>1705004
cool, thanks for the info and clearing things up. after seeing so many videos on printing minis, it made me think that you can only print one mini at a time despite the print bed having enough space for more.

I have a shed out back thats dedicated for art stuff so im most likely gonna set everything up there.

last questions. how much resin do prints use up? say a 500g bottle, how much can i make out of that? for something like standard sized minis with decent detail.

>>1705009
Standard minis take very little resin. I haven't run out of my first bottle yet and I've probably printed 25-30 minis so far, including some Large size minis. Really big prints you could (and should) hollow out with a support structure inside to save on resin and to reduce suction, which is your #1 enemy with resin printing.

>>1705009

The Chitubox slicer can calculate the amount of resin used by the print and you can also get a cost estimate if you set the price and density for it in the profile. Add about 10% to that to account for things like accidental spillage and not being able to put all of the resin stuck to the vat, buildplate, filter and gloves back in the bottle.

>>1705014
To continue on that, chitubox has an estimate cost per print based on what you spent on a bottle of resin, most of my build plates (which always have at least 3 minis on them) have been between 25 to 60 cents per plate, including supports

>>1705014
>printed 25-30 minis so far
oh fuck, that much? i dont know why i was under the notion that resin prints use up a lot of resin. i was expecting an entire bottle for just half that amount.

>>1705020
Resin does cost more than FDM but it isn't by much, the quality difference more than makes up for it. I started with an Ender 3 and was happy enough with the minis it put out but I'm never printing another mini on it again unless it's something huge scaled or scenery

>>1704459
>>1704519
Don't print that calibration crap. It's a waste of time.

Start with 50% fan and manufacturers recommended settings for temp. Don't do over 35mm/s. Bed heat 80°C.
Don't get red PETG, I have two different brands and they glob like crazy. Other colors seem to be fine.

>>1704994
>>1705004
Don't forget the distinction between laser SLA printers and DLP/screen SLA printers - adding more printed volume to laser SLAs definitely slows you down

>>1705009
>>1705020
Pic related is 250mL, probably including supports.

>>1705237
Yeah but who the hell actually has a laser SLA printer? When you can get DLP for sub 300 there's no reason to get a Moai

>>1705237
What resin do you use? The funtodo stuff I use starts cracking on crossections bigger than O10mm.

>>1705272
Just the default Anycubic green for now; it's served me well enough and I picked up a 500mL bottle when I first got my printer. I haven't had any issues whatsoever with it so far.

>>1705282
He did use home made "hybrid guns" with metal and 3D printed parts. One was a copy of the "Luty SMG 9 mm Parabellum". (pic)
The guns were malfunctioning, possibly due to his self batched powder made from potassium chlorate and sugar.
https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/10/16/homemade-firearms-used-in-halle-attack/

>>1702336
Hollow Knight?

>>1705282
Anyone who uses this argument can be instantly discredited

Especially a blue checkmark with a name like that

Fully 3D printed guns barely work better than a nail and a rubber band in a PVC pipe, and you cannot call it a 3d printed gun if the firing mechanism isn't printed
>>1705325

Let's just cut the "omg 3d printed guns" shitposting here while we're ahead. Years ago some guy on the internet made an AK47 out of a rusty shovel.

>>1705382
You're spot-on. If I had to 3D print a weapon, I would print a crossbow or even a sling long, long before I consider a gun. Even before these I would just make a pipe shotgun though, all you need for that is a hacksaw, a file, and some minimal welding skills. "3D printed weapons" are a joke when any moron with access to a welding torch can make something far more dangerous.

>>1705325
>The guns were malfunctioning
You'd think he would have test fired them first. I'm no terrorist, so I can't really imagine the mindset, but surely you don't go directly from assembly to attack?

>>1705355
Nah, he's kind of my own character

>>1705408
Looks like another remix of Pavel the ghost

>>1705417
Yep

>>1705392
He used a rusty shovel to make some parts, but the rest (all of the pressure-bearing parts) were sourced from an ak parts kit.

>>1704182
I could. If someone wanted it.

>>1704753
I got my cr-10 for about 330 on gearbest. I think that was shipping already in price. On cyber monday. Idk you can check

>>1705392
>Years ago some guy on the internet made an AK47 out of a rusty shovel.
>>1705422
>the rest (all of the pressure-bearing parts) were sourced from an ak parts kit.

>>1704852
A 0.4 mm nozzle can go down to 0.2 fairly comfortably. Are you sure you're not mistaken on you nozzle size?

What do you tend to use for sanding?

I'd like to make my own anime girl figurines.

>>1705431
Sandpaper

>>1705434
Thanks mate.

Time to be my own buyfag.

>>1705282
Actually is the only blue checkmarked muslin i respect ,but he indeed is wrong about it .So fucking wrong.

>>1705431
>>1705437
get yourself a set of needle files at the same time

Why are the nozzles made differently?

I should get the perfectly flat nozzle for my CR10 right?

>>1705431
180/220/400 grit sandpaper
Needle files
Palm sander

Also filler primer and XTC3D can cut a lot of sanding time

Acetone if you're using ABS

>>1705431
>I'd like to make my own anime girl figurines.
You are better off with a resin printer for printer quality, lot more work to deal with

otherwise just use a 0.2mm nozzle and some fine grit sand paper, or only use ABS because you can smooth it before painting.

Goddamn it you stupid Ender 3, stop breaking down on me I want to print something already!

>>1705457
Jea, no clue what they are trying to accomplish with the one on the right. It's peak retarded design.

>>1705664
>user error

Do you think a printer can handle this? it's 8cm wide
the bottom part is no problem, but i worry about the bridging on top, can it be done without supports?

>>1705773

>>1705779
Gluing shit together is a last resort

>>1705781
well 6cm bridging is doable if your bridging settings are decent.

>>1705773

Just use supports, it's going to look better than the lose, droopy strings you get when trying to bridge such distances.

>>1705781
How about printing on it's corner?

>>1705837
you are crazy, that is insane
you should be locked up in an insane asylum

>>1705773
Use tree supports with support interface enabled. Shit's good

>leave print on overnight
>reduce temperature by 5 degres to reduce stringing
>turns out it was below the point where it extrudes normally so it jammed a few hours after I went to bed
>have to disassemble the extruder assembly since the filament wound itself around the drive gear

>>1705867
>started a print with untested settings

>>1705773
Either print it at a 45 degree angle, cut it in half

or only put a small amount of support every 10mm or so

Bout to drop some cash on a new resin printer. Whats the quality difference between the Anycubic Photon S and the Elegoo Mars. Kinda leaning towards the Mars cause its $200 cheaper. I mostly print miniatures.

>>1705935
Just use a 0,2mm nozzle on an FDM machine and keep life simple?

Probably just go with the Mars, but it seems overkill.

>>1705935

The difference isn't in the print quality (theyre the same), but the build quality. Photon S is made of creaky thin plastic with hinges that break, while the Mars is solid. The first version of the Photon (as in, Non-S) is a great choice too, if you can find a bargain price.

>>1705935
Don't get the Photon S, if you're considering it - get the older model. It's cheaper, pretty much the exact same hardware (same resolution, AFAIK), and has a metal shell instead of a plastic one. I've heard it's gone down to $280 but unsure where.

>>1705773
>>1705851
This guy is right about tree supports and interfaces, its truly the only way.

>>1700371
Hey anons I know this is a slow moving board but I need a recommendation for a plug and play printer. I'm a complete technological boomer, a retard. I make models in tinkercad. I just want to print some models for fun and learn over time but I'd like it to be easy to start and under one thousand, ideally in the 300-600 dollar range.

Would sincerely appreciate any help.

>>1706096
Regular supports would work as well, what are you talking about?

>>1706107
Get a prusa and call it a day, that or a resin printer if you can handle a mess.
>>1706115
You're right they would, but tree supports are the optimal type

>>1706107
>Plug and play
Assembled Prusa MK3S, $1000 + $50 shipping, live support 24/7 and their slicer is just about foolproof if you don't try to do anything funny with it

>>1706121
(or if you want to save $250 you can get it as a kit and build it yourself)

>>1706107
Either get a cheaper Anycubic i3 Mega

Or get their newly released and updated Anycubic 4max pro with a full enclosure and stuff
https://ebay.us/baiBEV

Or a CR10 if you want a bigger print volume on the cheap.You can get up to a CR10S5 but just make absolutely sure you need a 500mm^3 print volume.

>>1706121
Prusa i3s are fine, but overpriced as shit now

>>1706126
>Anycubic i3
>CR10
>plug-and-play
Aren't those the printers that people fuck around with for months and upgrade with new parts and electronics to no end, only to complain they don't work right anyway?

>>1706129
The CR10 kind of

The Anycubic i3 mega is 2 pieces to screw together out of the box

>>1705941
Been a big fan of the Mars so far, just MIFFED that they announced a Pro version so soon after I bought mine. That's just how China do, I guess.

>>1706107
whatever you do, do not buy chinese, i'll give it to 'em they've got some real competitive prices but those things you've got to tinker with a lot

>get ender 3
>finally get bed level
>make some stuff with black PLA without issue
>switch to some shiny gold shit I found on amazon
>instantly peeling on the first layer
what in the goddamn hell

>>1706107
Order one of the assembled printers on ali express
all 3d printers work the same way and there is no reason to pay the jew prusa his insane markups when chinks sell the exactly same parts for half as much

>>1706160
Are you using glue?

>>1706204
no, should I be?

I just updated my Marlin, it's been a long time. I was surprised to find that apparently Linear Advance is "default" now. I'm only positive about this, it's a bit more effort to set up, but the better pressure control in the nozzle is much better for reducing stringing and getting consistent extrusion than "wiping" in the slicer. It made me ponder some things though. Linear advance works by making tiny retractions and extrusions as it goes along a path, making sure that the pressure in the nozzle matches the speed it's currently moving. But it does this by estimating based on a value we get from printing a test pattern and eyeballing which lines looks best. In theory, would it be possible to put a tiny pressure sensor inside the nozzle, so we can get the printer an actual measured value and thus theoretically absolutely perfect extrusions with zero effort? Force-sensitive resistors are about as basic an electronic component as the thermistors we're already using anyway, and commercial high-temperature (250C) ones already exist.
>>1706115
Problem is Cura still doesn't do angled normal supports. If an overhang gets a support in Cura, it will be placed straight down. If you're lucky that's on the buildplate, which is fine. If you're unlucky, a part of the print will be in the way, in which case you either print support on the part, which looks bad, or that part of the overhang just doesn't get supported (in this case the latter would mean nothing gets a support). Tree supports on the other hand can angle in from the side, and thus reach 99% of overhangs without needing to print on the part itself.

>>1700391
According to reviews every other one of these that ships has some kind of registration DRM in the firmware that requires having the printer hooked up to an internet connection. If it doesn't it will give you an inescapable prompt every 6 months.

>>1706247

If that's not a red flag i don't know what is

>>1706207
no
>>1706160
shit's fucked yo

>>1706228
shouldn't you just be able to calulate the pressure inside the nozzle and stuff?

I am planning to build my second 3D printer, with a 300x300mm build plate. What would the preferred print surface be? PEI sheets seem to be costly to replace at that size, so is the glass + gluestick method still favored?

>>1706314
I still like it. The downside is the heavy weight of the glass, so it's bad for a moving bed design.

>>1706314
Glass without glue is best.

What are the chances that these are knock-offs? I've seen such a range of prices ($215-$330) for the CR10 minis that I have nothing real to gauge off.

>>1706207
Yes, get yourself some Elmer's glue sticks.

>>1706448
eBay? 100% knockoffs.

>>1706476
thanks

>>1706448
>no zu buku, will do you good cr10!

>>1706314
Depends on what thickness you want. ~$20 doesn't sound too bad unless you're particularly careless with the build surface.

>>1704459
I can't print PETG well with the 3. After fucking with it for about two weeks I gave up when it clogged up the nozzle.

>>1706476
>>1706499
How about getting a bed surface, which actually works? Like the Ultrabase

>>1706107
Get the Prusa mini, seems like a perfect fit for your price range

>>1706629
Get a bed surface that works, or get the ultrabase? I can't do both.

>>1700798
can you share the link anon? that archive is gone unfortunately

opinions on the Sovol SV01 for a first-timer 3d printer? from what I've gathered so far, it appears to just be an Ender 3 Pro, but if there were a Pro version of that (Pro ×2? lol); with addons like improved bed, dual Z motors, and most importantly direct drive- main use case for me is TPU parts for FPV quads, and it seems direct drive is much preferred over Bowden systems like on the Ender 3 if primarily working with flex filament
I guess the biggest issue is it's relatively new & unknown and lacks the massive 3rd party support/community that the Ender 3 has developed over time. But there's at least an active Facebook group for it apparently

>>1706654
>sovol
Sounds like one of those generic chink ripoff companies.

LAMINATING CARBON:
Hi /diy/ where is the best place/site to buy carbon fibre and epoxy?

ATTENTION
ATTENTION
PARTS HAVE ARRIVED
I REPEAT
PARTS HAVE ARRIVED
THIS IS NOT A DRILL
ALL HANDS TO BATTLE STATIONS

>>1706676
Soller

>>1706107
Qidi X-One2

>>1706648
/r/yd91a4k4

>>1704459
I print with 50% and it just works. Don't try to print too fast.

how the FUCK do I keep this ABS from lifting. I've got an enclosure, a 110v bed, and a pei surface. fuck

>>1706819
Big
Brim

I've never understood people's issues with getting pla to stick to the ender 3 bed material. When properly leveled (manual mesh is great) and your bed is heated to a toasty 60c, everything sticks great. I also wipe the bed down with 95% isopropyl in-between prints. No glue or tape needed.

3D printer newfag here, would an Anycubic i3 Mega be a decent substitute for the Ender 3 for a similar price, or is it not worth the extra 10 or so bucks?

>>1706718
What are you building fren?

>>1706926
I've not wiped the bed in the year that I've used it. I spray a light coat of hairspray on that bitch

>>1700802
I don't have the patience to go through 260 pages of russian, how can I get in on this HeroForge ripper tool?

>>1707225

any of you use a 3D scanner?

>>1707259
I've used my phone for scanning before, has a tof sensor but photogrammetry provided better results

>>1707252
Bless you for spoonfeeding me, I am satiated and now well fed. Good prints to you, my dude.

>>1707069
A big expensive printer for some company. Sadly under NDA.

>>1707273
All three of those things interest me as I am currently caretaker of a small expensive printer for some company under NDA. Anything you can tell us about the company, at least? I'm very curious.

>>1707275
Big chemical company currently working on expanding it's additive manufacturing portfolio. Dunno if I can say more than that.

Printer will be physically big, but not in build volume. Won't use filament or pellets, but it will is ''FDM''.

>>1707275
>>1707276
Forgot to mention: if you're in the industry and in Europe, you're probably going to Formnext in November, might be able to meet up there?

Any other anons going to Formnext?

>>1707277
>>1707276
Understood, trade secrets are secret for a reason. Looking forward to hearing more about it if/when your company releases documents. Unfortunately, I'm in the US, so I won't be attending Formnext; I doubt my company will pay for a trip over on such short notice, but I will make a note that this exists and will try to attend next year. Do I understand correctly that the conference itself is only ~50-100 Euro? Conferences in the US run hundreds, if not thousands of dollars for ticket price alone, so that's quite impressive.

>>1707281
I wouldn't know, we get free tickets for our company.

>>1706667
Sounds very Russian to me. Not sure that's better than Chinese though.

Anyone sell things they print?
Of course it requires creativity/niche items to be worth anything.

>>1707555
I trade prints at my gun club for ammo. I've made speedloaders, a ski ramp fix for a Dillon XL650, and custom safety flags. They get free goodies, I get free shooting, win-win.

>>1707259
I've scanned lots of GW minis with this https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom/releases the 2018 version, from yt videos and from the GW viewer the program is free but you can only use that as reference to sculpt the model again, all the results are unprintables

>>1706718
>Duet
The prices of those things are a bitch, but boy, do they make things more comfortable.

>start 4 hour print
>first layers fine
>take a nap
>plastic now wrapped around the hotend and some wires
How fucked am I. How do I get plastic blocks off of wire. Do I need to buy a new hot end. It seems to have gotten under the plastic sheet protecting the silicone block or cooling thing around the hotend.

>>1707646
Buy a pair of very sharp clippers and start cutting. Remove as much plastic as you can. Heat the hotend up, it'll make it easier to eventually pull blocks of plastic free. Use a hot air pistol turned up to full power too. As long as you can get the plastic up to about 100 degrees with these methods combined you'll be able to liberate the heater block, and once you do that it becomes a bit easier.

Has anyone here used the Monoprice Mini Delta or a Monoprice Select Mini before?
Was thinking of buying one as a gift.

>>1707689
I picked up an MP Select Mini a couple years ago for shits on a black friday sale.
Great little printer for the price. Biggest downsides are limited build volume, and warping of the fucking flimsy bed.
The latter can be fixed with some easy modifications. The former can even be fixed with some more modifications.
Overall a great little machine to tinker around with, good gift idea imo.

anyone has any experience with skr 1.3 or the mini e3 dip for the ender 3? have you encountered any issues?

I have a guy from Stratasys courting my company. Are they any good?

>>1707757
Define "courting" and "any good". Are they trying to convince you to buy their printers? If so, do you have a team of absolute retards who can't do anything except push buttons without thinking about what they do? Then they're the right choice. If the people you're working with have any brains at all, you can probably save a few thousand dollars by getting something that's not Stratasys, since their filament is stupid overpriced and their machines aren't really anything special unless you're trying to print things like Ultem.

>>1707758
They're trying to sell to us. I was looking at a Form 3 and talked to one of their salespeople but she never followed up with the info she was supposed to send to me. I hate that fucking shit, if I ask for a formal quote I do not like having to chase after people.

I would be the only one using the machine. I don't care to be babying a machine. I need something that doesn't need too much maintenance.

>>1707780
>Formal quote
The printer's $3500, plus the rinsing and curing station it comes out to a little over $5000, not sure what more you need out of them than that - though I understand your frustration.

What will you be making with it (e.g., large or small, detailed or rough models)? That'll be a good indicator of whether you should go for a Form printer or Stratasys, likely.

>>1707281
>Do I understand correctly that the conference itself is only ~50-100 Euro? Conferences in the US run hundreds, if not thousands of dollars for ticket price alone, so that's quite impressive.
The ticket for the fair and the conference ara two different things;
fair: 90 €
conference: 1.200 €
https://formnext.mesago.com/frankfurt/en/themes-events/tct_conference.html#conversionteaser

>>1705773
Too easy, print this

>>1707844
sure, why not?
was it supposed to be hard or something? you don't even need supports

>>1707881
Well played, sir.

>>1707995
You have to go back

>>1705282
>imam of peace
wtf am i reading here

>>1708195
It's an oxymoron. Similar to "military intelligence".

New thread >>1708269

>>1707252
Is the quality of this better than Herosaver?

>>1708541
IDK I rip anime models off sketchfab with the software
I just know you guys like that stuff
what you see on the screen is the quality it exports as tho

What ever happened to Cody Wilson.
He was damn near starting a movement around decentralized arms production until he got involved with some 16 year old.
Why did he have to pull a libertarian like that?

>>1708579
>whatever happened
Forgotten, like the big dumb asshole should have been.

>>1707259
Yeah. Photogrammetry is the best. Quicker and less of a pain in the ass than laser. The David is probably what you want.