/diy/ - Do It Yourself

CR-10 S4 or AC Chiron?

Been doing random board game organization to start with some basic modeling. Good times.

>>1687466
what do you plan to print?

>>1687472
CR-10S4/Chiron-sized things.

>>1687475
got a cr10s4 standing right next to me and it works for "cr10s4 sized things". its a bit loud as sp,ething, i dont know what appears to be vibrating but apart form that, i had good results with it and would recommend it. i made >>1685893 on the left with it

>>1687481
But is it, or the Chiron, the better printer?

>>1687475
got a cr10s4 standing right next to me and it works for "cr10s4 sized things". its a bit loud as something, i dont know what appears to be vibrating but apart form that, i had good results with it and would recommend it. i made >>1685893 on the left with it

>>1687482
cant tell you that because i cant compare

>>1687484
Just on specs alone then.

I've got a Chiron sitting at home, so let's try and compare, I want to see what the best recommendation would be for the next OP update.

Post stupid build orientations.

I just don't wanna clean supports man.

>>1687505
Got Cura? Turn on support interfaces. They've switched from the old solid shit to a grid-like thing. I use a .2mm gap, on flat parts the surface over the support is actually good enough that I often don't bother with post processing. Getting the support out it as simple as pressing down on it with your thumbs until you feel it snap, and then pulling it out with needle-nose pliers.

>>1687505
doesn't look too stupid desu
given decent first layer adhesion it'll print just fine

>>1687563
My supports are already tuned in, just wanted to see if my Chiron could pull off a 45 degree overhang with a 0.4 layer heigh without issue. It would appear so.

>>1687577
Did somebody say 20 brimlines? I think somebody said 20 brimlines.

>>1687613

Gorgeous brim. For some reason the PLA I've got right now just sucks.

>>1687634
What I do is buy the "natural" colour PLA from the local hardware store. It's a slightly transparent yellow, very ugly, but it prints amazing.

>>1687649

Neat. If you've got an example pic handy I wouldn't mind it though. Also what hardware store? A chain? I know that most chains will sell you PLA through the website but I've never seen it in person.

>>1687650
I say hardware store but it's kind of a combined hardware and tech store. You can't buy plywood there, but you can get office materiel, angle grinders, Anet A8s, workmen's clothing, women's shaving machines, buzz saws, 5.1 surround speakers...

Pic is some of the filament next to a print I haven't yet sanded and painted. All the imperfections of the print are super visible, but it's ridiculously easy to print and the actual fine details are perfect. It's just that in the light it invariably looks like shit because the plastic is uncoloured.

Anyone into grommets?

>>1687463
Stratasys says hello

VFD and LDO are installed. The CU20045-uw4j may not be syncing up quite well with the prusa though, when scrolling down in the print from SD menu the arrow disappears and the text doesn't scroll horizontally. Not to mention the new LDO board has click wheel skipping for some reason.

>>1687747
>Not to mention the new LDO board has click wheel skipping for some reason.
That was always happening, you just didn't notice it. The firmware code for handing the scrollwheel is braindead (inherited from reprap)

>>1687747

>>1687753
You mean to tell me that what I'm seeing on my VFD is what was happening on the stock LCD, only that the controller in the LCD was just hiding it?

>>1687760
>You mean to tell me that what I'm seeing on my VFD is what was happening on the stock LCD, only that the controller in the LCD was just hiding it?
The scrollwheel skipping is due to ancient encoder code that was meant to sort-of-work-ok with several different kind of cheap encoder wheels. Prusa actually uses a nice one, but they never adapted the code to it. So it will often fail to advance when moved one click, then advance twice when moved the next, that kind of thing. That was definitely happening before.

As for text not scrolling.... Hmmm... you know I think I noticed that and never thought about it. I can't imagine why that would have broken, but I think you might be right. I'll have to look at that and fix it.

>>1687770
Beauty comes at a price I suppose. Thank you for your offer on the gel/ acrylic, I really rather like the glow of the teal on my blacked out prusa though. It's gonna take some time getting used to the mismatched scrolling. I probably wouldn't have bought the display if I knew it would act this way, bummer.

>>1687780
>Beauty comes at a price I suppose. Thank you for your offer on the gel/ acrylic, I really rather like the glow of the teal on my blacked out prusa though. It's gonna take some time getting used to the mismatched scrolling. I probably wouldn't have bought the display if I knew it would act this way, bummer.
Naw, it's supposed to be perfect. My firmware already has the scrollwheel fix, I'l check the scrolling. If it's busted on the VFD (or busted in general) I'll fix it.

>>1687795
oh, it also has the needed fixes for the 5x7 vs the 5x8 bitmaps.

>>1687795
What firmware are you using? And what VFD specifically?
I'm using the official 3.8 that just came out, and I'm using a noritake itron CU20045-UW5J.

The one smbaker posted using was a W2J but I don't think there should be any sync issues that should cause the first characters of the rows to disappear

>>1687797
Excuse me, its actually a UW4J. But its still a 20x4 5x7 character display so I can't really imagine why text movement would be broken

>>1687797
>What firmware are you using?
It's my fork for the i3 MK3S MMUX
https://github.com/xiphmont/Prusa-Firmware
I need to rebase to the latest release, and you probably shouldn't use it anyway right now :-)
> And what VFD specifically?
CU20045-UW5J
It should be command compatible completely to the LCD. I don't know why it would break either, so I'll have to debug it.

Printed a 10 hour print for a butter dispenser only to learn PLA isn’t foodsafe

Also learned the hell that is supports

>>1687847
none of what you print will be "foodsafe" unless you can smooth it out thoroughly

>>1687847
Dip it in a foodsafe resin and you should be good
I don't get why people keep making (wet) food items and using them, you can even see the things seeping into the layers. Printed parts shouldn't be a problem for most dry foods, but butter is not one. Though, how "dirty" does your butter really get?

Anyway, ABS and acetone or dip in resin and you should be fine. Sucks that you found out so late, though.

>>1687847
the only foodrelated thing i ever printed was an eggcup.

>>1687935
I once printed a fork. I'd just turned on the dishwasher and couldn't be arsed to wait an hour for it to finish. Worked better than the disposable forks you can buy, actually.

>niece comes over
>no toys
>luckily have a bunch of benchies
wew lad

>>1687951
To be fair it's your niece's parents fault for not bringing something to keep her entertained. You can't expect the homes of incel scum to be good places for children.

>>1687942

Well disposable forks are literally made out of PLA these days.

>>1687847

Well as long as it's pure PLA it's foodsafe. But you have to smooth it out or food will get stuck in the seams, preferably coat it, and it will never be dishwasher safe, so it's a bit of a pain.

So I watched a video on detail printing with the ender 3 approaching detail levels of resin printers. Anybody try this? Seems you set layer height to 0.8 and it gets close to resin quality

Petg or pet?

I don’t want a bunch of spools but I need foodsafe and transparent. What’s better?

>>1687987
>0.8
I think you mean 0.08. 0.8mm is THICC

>>1688002
ya my bad lol.

>>1687987
FDM can actually get pretty good. When I print minis I use .08mm layers with a .2mm nozzle, and it actually turns out pretty sharp. Takes ages though. For the ender you'll want to upgrade to TMC drivers, the stock doesn't have the resolution to do .08 layers.

>>1687987

FDM is capable of pulling off high detail, but that's not its strong point. It is the most practical and versatile technology, but for really demanding and precise geometry that doesn't require material strength, SLA is the solution. Even with a 0.2mm nozzle the finest possible X/Y detail you can get is a 0.2mm diameter dot, while a standard MSLA printer's X/Y resolution is much higher than that. You also don't need to worry about things like ringing artifacts as mechanically they're much simpler systems.

>>1688019
.08mm layers should work fine with the stock stepper drivers,the ender 3 does 400 steps per mm on the z axis and i assume it uses 16x microstepping which means the finest z axis resolution for a fullstep is 0.04mm

>>1687987
Its not really all that close, depends on your use case. If its okay for you to spray on a coat of primer that gets fdm a lot closer to resin, but if youre printing small models with intricate details the finish on resin prints is really impressive.

is there a trick to get rid of these massive cura supports?

>>1688068
Use meshmixer for supports.
easier to remove and less waste material

Does the anycubic fep film have a protective layer on it?
I watched 4 different tutorials and none show that there is a protective layer on the film but now that I have cut of the film a thin layer separates from the thicker one.

>>1688182
>I watched 4 different tutorials and none show that there is a protective layer on the film but now that I have cut of the film a thin layer separates from the thicker one.
I doubt anyone can give you a certain answer. Chinese products ship with different parts in every other box.

The spikeman
is a nice man

>>1688236
I'll just print a test print. if it rips of a layer then I can just peel off the rest and still use the film

>>1687953
im sure you could have crammed more buzzwords in there

>>1687953
Incel detected.

So how do you guys handle screws with prints using pla?


Do you print a cylindrical hole and make the screw create the threading?

Do you print the cylindrical hole at the size of the screw (minus it's threading) or smaller?

Do you use one of those threading tools for machining to create the threading ?


I've never before designed anything that is held together with screws, just stuff that slides into place, so I'm unsure of what to do.

>>1688294
above around M6 and .2mm layers, I print threads. Below that, cylindrical hole and either tap or just self-thread.

>>1688295
Thanks

>>1688295
s/M6 and .2mm layers/M6 with .2mm layers/

>>1687819
looking at the data sheets, the UW4J is the international model and supports the hd66712 controller. I'm pretty sure the prusa controller is a hd44780. Is that why I'm seeing weird artifacts and sub par scrolling?

>>1688294

Depends on what I need it to do. Most of the time, simply using any coarse-threaded screw (wood, sheet metal, lath, self-drilling, etc.) in a hole of the appropriate diameter works fine. Finding that diameter can be a little tricky, though, as plastic (and PLA especially) has much less give than wood and

If I need to use a machine screw for some reason, I make an undersized hole with plenty of wall thickness, drill it out to the proper size, and use a tap to form threads. You don't really need the tap drill if you can get the hole diameter close, but I have them anyway and it makes tapping easier.

You can make a self-tapping screw by grinding a small notch at the bottom of a machine thread, obviating the need for a proper tap.

Truth be told, though, if you're using screws to hold a multi-part print together, I'd suggest ditching that in favor of adhesive. It's easier and usually stronger, assuming there's a reasonable mating surface area between parts. Also, as a couple tips, drilling/tapping PLA benefits from oil or water to act as a lubricant/coolant. It's relatively low transition temperature and high friction means it melts really easily in the cut. Otherwise, you have to go pretty slow to get an accurate hole/thread. More generally, when screwing a fastener into plastic, it's really easy to accidentally re-thread part or all of the hole. To prevent this, when inserting the fastener, spin it BACKWARDS until you feel/hear a little click as the thread starts fall past each other. Driving it forward from that point will ensure proper mating of the threads and prevent cross- or re-threading.

>>1688294
If it's a really big bolt I'd print thread, but I hardly ever use those. Most of my stuff is held together with M3 or M4 bolts. I print those at the size of the screw plus threading, and then include either a slot I can stuff a nut into if the part is thick there, or a little 1-2mm depression to hold the nut if it's thin. I find that for M3 and M4, if I simply add .2mm to the diameter of the metric name (so 3.2 or 4.2mm) the hole the printer makes is the exact right size for a bolt to easily slide into without any wobble.

Im scared to leave my ender 3 printing while lm at work all day.
Will it be ok while lm not around?

>>1688354
I leave mine going pretty much all the time, and the worst I've ever come back to is a print that came loose during the process and turned into a ball of twine.

>>1688366

>>1688182
The Photon? Mine didn't. I just slotted the tray in and started printing, been fine for over 10-20 prints now.

>>1688303
Ok, I started a 16 hour long print earlier in the evening, but I just had an idea to flash the 3.8 firmware with the newly sourced LDO with the VFD attached. do the LDO controllers have any memory on them? If so, I'm wondering if prusa flashes the ones from their assembly with the firmware that ignores the click wheel skipping and what not, and maybe the one I got from printed solid has some ancient rep rap code on it. Guess I'll find out in about 14 more hours.

> do the LDO controllers have any memory on them?

No. the encoder wheel is a dumb two-pole switch wired directly to the arduino on the main board over the ribbon cable connection.

>>1688414
Well damn, I can't believe just changing the display causes the scroll wheel bug. Thanks for setting me straight before I hopefully waited for 14 hours to try it.

>>1688416
>Well damn, I can't believe just changing the display causes the scroll wheel bug. Thanks for setting me straight before I hopefully waited for 14 hours to try it.
It's entirely possible you got a board with a bum encoder. Or an encoder that's a little iffy and the code is making it worse.
You could try flashing a build of mine just to see if it makes a difference, and then flash back to stock.

>>1688420
That was actually probably going to be my next idea. Hoping its a software thing, because its going to be a total PITA to unsolder the VFD (again) and put the old lcd on.

>>1688420
the scrollwheel is an encoder, and it sends out of phase pulses as it rotates, four per step. The Prusa firmware is dumb about it because the encoder always sends the pulses at a given absolute position, ie, it *knows when it's stopped at a detent*. The pulse order should only be used to determine the direction it's moving.

The Prusa firmware doesn't do that. It just counts pulses. When it gets four or eight or whatever, it advances the position and sets the count to zero. That sounds fine. But it does the same thing if it gets five.... or seven... or nine. It makes no effort to keep track of where the wheel is even though the encoder is telling it. So the breakovers are always in different places.

>>1688421
>its going to be a total PITA to unsolder the VFD (again) and put the old lcd on.
it would be easier just to swap the encoders.

>>1688424
>The Prusa firmware doesn't do that. It just counts pulses. When it gets four or eight or whatever, it advances the position and sets the count to zero. That sounds fine. But it does the same thing if it gets five.... or seven... or nine. It makes no effort to keep track of where the wheel is even though the encoder is telling it. So the breakovers are always in different places.
Anyway, normally, if an encoder bounces a little bit it's no big deal because the positioning is still correct. But the Prusa firmware doesn't track that. It just sees a ton of pulses and goes zooming off.

>>1688426
Sorry but what do you mean by swap the encoders? Like the variable pot click wheel?

>>1688433
yep. that's a rotary encoder. Not a potentiometer.

>>1688434
Ah I see. Is there anyway to measure the two I have with a multimeter before I swap them? To make sure my old one worked fine and the new one has a bad encoder?

>>1688436
not really no. But if it misbehaves with my firmware too, then it's something hardware related. Maybe not the encoder, maybe cable connection, but probably encoder. Anyway, let me get you a firmware build.

>>1688439
https://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/Firmware-MK3S-3.7.2-MMU+X-2363.ino.hex
fresh off the presses, tested it here before uploading.

>>1688440
like I said, this is a dev version, has other bugs, but it's safe to flash and test with. You might want to go back to stock after trying it (I'll have a real release in a bit).

>>1688354
If you're really worried it's not too difficult to set up Octoprint with a webcam and some port forwarding to check up on it and stop printing if necessary.

Generally I find that once the print is partway through then it's going to be alright for the rest of it unless it's more complicated later on.

>>1688442
>>1688440
>>1688439
extremely appreciated, will try in the morning.

>>1688447
Good luck, thanks for letting me know you're not trying right now. I'm off back into the workshop then.....

>>1688238
Nice Lavos, looks cute

So I just had the idea of seeing if I could find some heat sinks to attach 40mm fans to the end of my steppers to see if I could control heat and achieve higher speeds without missing steps.

Anyone know if it's been tried before?, if so what were the results?

>>1688182

I'm replacing the FEP film on my Photon right now and the spare sheet that came with the printer has a protective layer on both sides that can be peeled off. Not only that, but it's sealed on both ends, so you can't really wedge a fingernail inbetween to separate them. I had to cut a tiny piece of one corner and use fine tweezers to start to peel them back.

It looks way too cloudy with the protective layer for it to be usable as is, but anyone who doesn't know any better might decide to leave it on and screw things up... I've looked at videos for replacing it and none of them mention anything about that, i guess it depends on who you're getting the FEP from.

Anyone got any opinions about the Prenta Duo XL SE? Can't seem to find much about it, other than the product page.

>>1688541
Right!!
I thought that it was meant to be cloudy so I used it without removing the film. That was a waste

>>1688449
Hey I just got home, flashed your fork of the firmware, click wheel and certain navigation of menu elements were still broken.

Flashed back to official 3.8 hex firmware and I'm still having these issues. Must be there is something wrong with the rotary encoder.

>>1688527
Thanks, it's on Thingiverse.

>>1688713
I'm gonna have to desolder my vfd to send it back.

what are the odds the new LDO they send me has a working rotary encoder and my display magically works? is there any kind of issue the LDO could have that would also mess up my display output?

Messed up scaling

>>1688748
Don't heresy at me or my son ever again, so decrees the emprah

I have a friend wanting to commission me to 3D print him a set of Star Wars Republic Commando armor for him to paintball in. Thus far Ive given him a material and file quote, since I cant really find a good source of the files for free. But hes on the fence for whether or not to 3D print the armor or make it himself out of EVA Foam. Can anyone here give me a rundown of pros vs cons for 3D printed vs foam?

Im also curious, if we should print the armor, I have told him its going to need sanding, filler primer, paint, and probably a translucent lacquer layer, but I also suggested maybe coating it in 2 part resin for added strength. I havent had a need to mess with PETG yet and I dont want part of his material costs to be me figuring out how to work with the new plastic, thus I was recommending PLA+. Esuns stuff is supposed to be more heat resistant and stronger. I cant imagine it would begin to deform or melt just being in the sun while paintballing, especially if he has multiple layers of primer, resin, and paint on it.

>>1688778
PLA handles sunlight just fine, it only really encounters problems from outright heat. For example if left in a car. Wearing it outdoors is fine, there'll be plenty of ventilation.

>>1688746
>what are the odds the new LDO they send me has a working rotary encoder and my display magically works? is there any kind of issue the LDO could have that would also mess up my display output?
I've bought a couple of those boards and had no problem. I think you just got really unlucky anon.

>>1688822
(or you have a loose/broken cable)

>>1688822
>>1688824
Came to the unfortunate conclusion that theres something up with the VFD. Managed to desolder everything, then I ran male to female jumper pins to the original prusa display; click wheel worked fine, all the text scrolled normally.

Ran the jumper pins minus the anode and cathode to the VFD, and I had the same results I've been having. Dunno if the UW4J is straight incompatible, or there was something wrong with this specific VFD.

I trried moving the cables for the control unit away from the motors because I was praying it was EMI that was causing my headaches but sadly it wasnt the case.

>>1688938
the datasheets for these are out there. Maybe the 4J vs 5J is a simple issue of different jumper config from the factory?

>>1688958
I had both the data sheets, I tried all the jumper combinations, different character pallet, i80 m68, parallel vs serial, no jumper settings fixed my problem. I may as well suck it up and buy a UW5J from digikey directly, if THAT one doesnt work then I'll probably drop this project.

>>1688961
They're cheaper direct from Noritake.
https://noritake-vfd.com/cu20045-uw5j.aspx

>>1688969
I imagine digikey would be easier to return in the event that it doesnt work though, digikey would also get it to me faster, assuming the ones directly from noritake ship from japan right?

>>1688971
you're correct about digikey being faster. The noritake link is, I think, their Canadian distribution center.

I have a software question: Fusion360 has very nice feature that can move objects from point to point, rotate them accordingly and so on.
Is there software that can do this with stls? I got something from Magics, but it is more for aligning than bringing together.

>>1689057
>Is there software that can do this with stls?
Blender can do it, though if you want precision you have to do it by typing in the translate locations.

Anyone has issues with printing in the center of their ender 3? All of a sudden my prints are offset even though I didn't change anything on cura. Anyone else have this issue?

>>1689096
make sure your bed size is set properly (235 instead of 220 or whatever)

>>1689057
Tinkercad

>>1688778
PLA is fine. Resin is overkill. Don't invest anymore thinking into this until you have the money in your pocket.

>>1688778
Straight of old PLA with primer and paint will work fine
i think you ought to worry more about where to find the files

>>1689096
Why would this be an issue after 20 prints though?

>>1689108
This isn’t my first few prints though. I’ve been printing for two weeks nonstop. Is it possible it’s my belt tension?

>>1689172
I don't know, maybe if you updated your slicer and you reset the settings or something, just check the settings

>trying to get mini's to print good after seeing reddit and youtubers pull it off on the ender 3

My bed is level what could be wrong. How do these dudes pull off quality like that?

>>1688778
>good source of the files for free
try talking him into the "sean fields" helmets https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2633285 + pic related. they are easy to make, even with smaller printbeds and are free (it was my first big print). i made the right one from ABS and the left from PLA. the only difference was that i had to sue epox to glue parts together instead of acetone.
the ABS helmet is now 1,5 years old and hasent degraded a bit in the sun.

>if we should print the armor, I have told him its going to need sanding, filler primer, paint, and probably a translucent lacquer layer, but I also suggested maybe coating it in 2 part resin for added strength
for strenght you should honeslty be fine full stock. just sand it down, add sprayfiller to fill tiny gaps and real filler for bigger ones should they appear and then paint them with a rattlecan.
and again, if you decide to go for the sean fields helmets, they also come with full body armour you can print, which i am sill in the process of making. so far, i only have arms and shoulders

>>1689184
ill put 235 rather than 220 and update you guys

>>1687483
get some dampers for your motors dude i have 2 on my Y axis and one on my x-axis and its pretty quiet except for the noise from the control box

>>1689153
>>1689142
>>1689193
>>1688784
Thanks.

Ive found a full set of files for the armor itself, unfortunately its $70 for the whole set. This guy is big into Star Wars and dicking around though so hes already said its entirely worth it.

>>1689227
that's a lot of money

A few threads back i posted a picture of my simple backpack hook for my bicycle
At first it seemed to work just fine but apparently bumps and high speeds are just too much for it, the backpack simply gets flung off of the hook too easy
So i came up with this, a latch mechanism on the hook
The idea is that it simply stays shut from friction and yet the backpack is easy to take off of the hook, i could have just designed a hook with a more aggressive angle but then removing the backpack from the bike becomes more difficult and annoying

And because i really like mechanisms that come assembled when printed and because fuck screws i decided to make it so that the latch is printed already within the hook body, i just started the print, i hope it works.

>>1689235
Considering there are full sets of the same armor on Etsy and other places made with various means from 3D printing to actual molded piece for $800-$1200 Id say ~$300 or less for a 3D printed set is a fairly good deal.

>>1689245
Awesome pics. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.

yeah i suppose it worked out alright, i'm not completely happy with it but it's plenty good enough
now i've just got to go out and test it

>>1689227
thats a lot of dosh for some simple files+you dont know if you still need to cut them into smaller pieced to fit into your printer.
can you post a link to the files? you are planning to buy?

>>1689316
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/other/republic-commando-cosplay-3d-print-model

I do have to cut them but I know how to use meshmixer so it shouldnt be that hard. Same guy has a listing on Etsy and some other site I cant think of right now. Theyre on sale on cgtrader though so Ill probably pick them up there.

Personally I agree with you, I think paying for files at all is a rip off considering the incredibly detailed shit you can get for free. Friend wants it though and Im more than happy to help. I really doubt I can design this armor myself.

>>1689360
looks alright i guess. i hope your friend is ready to wait cause those prints will take fucking months to finish

>>1689059
>if you want precision you have to do it by typing in the translate locations
That's... how it's usually done, I don't understand. Unless you mean software that only has snapping and won't let you type in numbers at all.

>>1689398
With a single printer going 24/7 itll probably take a month and a half if I had to guess. The real issue I see is hes going to have to attach velcro or straps or some shit to it somehow to put it on. I dont see anything from just looking at the sample pictures suggested how its actually worn.

>>1689402
Yeah, but I just can't recall if blender tells you the exact coordinate size of each mesh. Which would be useful for placing them precisely relative to each other without snapping/alignment.
I rarely have to use blender for that because I'm mostly exporting STL files from CAD software. So if I want things aligned correctly I can do it in CAD before exporting and the relative location from the assembly gets preserved.

And more rarely I've used boolean modifiers to merge or truncate STL files precisely.

Just finished building and testing an Ender 3
Those who have been using it for a while now, what are the things you wish you knew when you started?

>Opening of device violates warranty and is only allowed for instructed service staff of manufacturer of this device

>>1689547
>Yeah, but I just can't recall if blender tells you the exact coordinate size of each mesh

Of course it does, though you have to set the scene units to metric or imperial, otherwise it just uses generic units. Which are the same as metric, but are float values like "1.500" instead of "1m 50cm"

Just had my first piece cast, lost PLA really is great, the resolution is surprisingly good, now let's see if the shrinkage is within spec. I had two of pic related made for 75 EUR at a local foundry, and a collegue just guesstimated the cost to make this at roughly 300 EUR each - the possible cost saving is amazing.
Only downsize is the amoutn of plaster still on this thing, how do I polish this? It's brass, so I really want to get this to shine before I hand it over to the customer.

>>1689645
>a collegue just guesstimated the cost to make this at roughly 300 EUR each
On a five axis CNC mill. Proofread your posts people, especially if you're drinking.

>>1689645
>Only downsize is the amoutn of plaster still on this thing, how do I polish this? It's brass, so I really want to get this to shine before I hand it over to the customer.

What about giving it a steam cleaning to get the plaster off and then going over it with a dremel with a buffing wheel attachment and paste? You could also try a wirewheel

How do you troubleshoot computer based issues for 3d printing?
I've officially confirmed that I do not have any mechanical fault in the printer itself, the issue lies somewhere in my PC it doesnt seem like it's a slicer issue because old files that printed fine before arent printing now and .gcode parsed by Cura shows zero faults, but my prints are still just stopping about a third of the way through, with the exception of the test file AC support sent me I've printed 5 of that little dog with zero issues
Is it my harddrive not copying files correctly? Is my SD card reader burning out? I've already bought a new SD card and it didn't fix the issue

>>1689659
Does the printer just straight stop in place or does it raise the head and home like it does when a print finishes?

>>1689659

Have you tried printing directly via USB? If it's throwing a "halt()" due to a janky thermistor you'll see it in the Pronterface console.

>>1689664
Stops in place, it keeps all the fans running and the display says its heating but once the head stops the heaters turn off
>>1689666
I hadnt thought about it, my printer is in a different room from my computer I'll have to try to figure out a way to set it up

How hard would it be to make a replacement battery compartment door that I don't actually know the exact dimensions of? Is it hard to model it from the negative space if you're unfamiliar with 3D modeling?

>>1689687
You have the piece you need to design the door for but dont have the measurements?

>>1689687
Because you can only have access to the topology from single axis, it wont be easy. Two is minimum if you want to even close to the precision you need.
Check if chink shops have door you are looking for, like Ebay or Alixepress.

>>1689687
not a problem
just model it and print, and if it doesn't fit see where the problem is, adjust, and print again

>>1689624
did you retrofit it with the rpi and what ever that ramps/rambo board is, or did it come like that?

Are there any alternatives to Creality CR-X with the following criteria
>Dual material capability (for material support) without external devices
>Relatively big area (Width: 200mm/8'' Length: 200mm/8'' Height: 200mm/12'')
>Under 800 for chink shit or 2000 for western stuff
Would love to buy some western printer but I seem to be limited by my print area requirements driving up the cost to around 3000 bucks

Are there any alternatives to Creality CR-X with the following criteria
>Dual material capability (for material support) without external devices
>Relatively big area (Width: 200mm/8'' Length: 200mm/8'' Height: 300mm/12'')
>Under 800 for chink shit or 2000 for western stuff
Would love to buy some western printer but I seem to be limited by my print area requirements driving up the cost to around 3000 bucks

>>1689787
>>Under 800 for chink shit or 2000 for western stuff
Does Prusa with an MMU not meet this?

>>1689790
Oh, 300mm high now. Yes, mk3s is a bit short. It's not hard ot mod it there, but not what you want.

>>1689789
>>1689791
Formbot T Rex?

>>1688383
Butane torches and pliers are your friends. Use them to clean the cake.

anyone play with generative design in fusion? how much does "350 cloud credits" actually get you?

Have any of you ever tried using your own semen as a print bed adhesive?

>>1687990
PETG is damn hard to print. Even ABS is much easier, but shrinkage causes problems with dimensional accuracy.

>>1689870
Used to be a thing in the RepRap comunity but females complained.

>>1689789
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/craftbot-3-3d-printer-fully-assembled/sk/MSS6N0HG?aff=7383

Seems pretty legit. You might be able to get a kit and build a similar sized machine for half the price, though.

>walls look fine
>gaps between infill layers
Should I be worries about this? Maybe its under-extruding

>>1687729
No, but I'm into wiring harness clips.

Right now my 3d printer is tied up, but cura says 18 minute print time for a ~1" OD clip. I'm thinking I'm going to have to beef up the female connector ends. Might have modeled them too thin.

>>1689622
Don't fuck up the bed height or else you'll burn a hole straight through the magnetic pad and also fuck up the bed itself a little bit.

also babysit the first layer of your print. don't just run it and leave the room. Bad things can happen.

fortunately even with the hole and fucked up bed my ender 3 is still functional.

been eyeing that anycubic photon for a while now, and noticed there's upgraded version available too
is it worth the extra shekels? or grab the old and and slap the new firmware into it?

>>1690146

No that's normal, if you look at the gcode you'll see it alternates the patterns instead of doing the full infill shape every layer. It's easier to notice with rectilinear infill because the two patterns are at 45 degrees to eachother.

>>1690157
Get the elegoo mars, its cheaper, has got a better spring loaded leveling system and its easier to take the vat out since the whole top comes off. The new photon is cheap plastic and supposed to be worse than the original, so even then pick the original over the S if you insist on the photon. All these entry level resin printers use the same screens and general z axis design so the quality is generally the same.

>>1690157

I'd get the old model, they're trying to get rid of old stock so they're on heavy discount now. New one has a more stable dual-rail Z axis, but is otherwise made of creaky thin plastic and has the same parameters. Or the elegoo mars like >>1690161 said, depending on which has the better price.

>>1690147

Tip from a fellow blender user - you can get rid of the low-poly faceted look with the Subsurf modifier and still keep edges sharp without much effort. Just select the edges you want to remain sharp in edit mode, open the N-key panel on the right and set "Crease" to 1.0.

>>1690147
no offence but that's a pretty shitty model all around

>>1690162
thanks man, I was fucking around earlier with a different model and kept getting unexpected jagged results with the subdivide smooth tool option.

>>1690168
Why am I going to waste time doing finish work on something I'm testing out? It took me 20 minutes from idea to finish to model it up. I can make it look decent later.

>>1690182
no i mean those locking geometries especially
very much not suited for 3d printing
which is a shame since you could very well make locking geometries that work perfectly for 3d printing

>>1690184
I'm open to a different approach. could you give me any ideas then?

>>1690158
That's only for rectilinear, honeycomb doesn't alternate like that and should be the same pattern every layer, just rotated in a different direction.

>>1690182
>unexpected jagged results with the subdivide smooth tool
You need supporting geometry (edge loops) and a minimum of ngons to make it work "right" with hard angles like that, generally, else it tends to fuck it all up

>>1690187
here's a clip with a latch mechanism that's actually optimised for 3d printing

>>1690191
now if you could only explain why it's better than his design, we can all learn from you.

>>1690197
the clip mechanism in the blender file requires supports to print properly
and as a side note, the proportions when it comes to strength of different parts are hilariously off with the clip mechanism itself being the weakest link by an order of magnitude

>>1687987
You can get close by printing with very small nozzles and using ABS so you can acetone smooth it. Should really just get a resin printer if you want to do mini's though.

>>1688354
I use octoprint to observe it and setup thermal runaway protection. I also have a relay connected to my power supply so I can have g-code at the end of my print telling the printer to hard shutdown 5 minutes after the print is done. Both are very straight forward to setup, lots of step by step tutorials out there.

But while you're researching those options, like another anon said, if the print is still fine 15-20 minutes after it first starts then it'll likely be fine in regards to staying adhered to the bed and finishing. So you can just start it in the morning and check it before leaving.

>>1690162
Looks like the old Photon is going for $260, and the Mars is going for $280 on Amazon.

>>1690248
>old Photon is going for $260
Fuck, I really should have waited a couple of months to get mine. Didn't think the price would drop that low that fast. Still, got some use out of it and got my company to buy an expensive SLA printer since they were impressed with the quality of the parts I brought in, so not a total loss.

Anyone with a Photon, can you please check this file on their printer with a dry run? https://files.catbox.moe/hcjrcp.zip

The first 4 layers should be fine, does the 5th layer look like pic related? The top pic shows the 5th layer projected by the display of the printer, the bottom pic shows what the display should look like. A portion of the displayed layer is shifted or something.

Photon support is sending me a new LCD but this feels like a software issue on the printer.

>>1690365

No it shows up fine here. Have you updated your firmware and the FPGA code for the LCD? Also are the exposure times only 2 seconds on purpose?

What are the actual differences between normal mode and stealth mode on the Prusa? I'm trying to figure out why I only get layer shifting in normal mode.

Who else here just really likes their printer?
It's like a little buddy, working super hard to give you shapes

>>1690191
Updated the model. Got a print time of around 5 minutes a pair for the small ones. like an hour for the big one. This new filament really doesn't like to stick to the bed at all. I have to basically run with the tip dragging the bed ever so slightly, as opposed to the black filament in >>1690182 where I could run about 5 thou off the bed, not that it's that flat anyway.


I don't suppose this has been a bad run for just having gotten my first 3d printer on friday though.

>>1690430
Stealth mode runs the motors slightly slower during non-movements and has crash detection disabled. I don't know much past that but it's not really that much quieter for me (since the movements are what cause the most noise for my prints) and the crash detection is probably useful.

>>1690455
I feel the same way about my automatic lawnmower and my automatic vacuum cleaner. I guess I'm a robotphile, technically all a 3D printer is anyway is a robot with a 3D pen.

>>1690455
What is your genuine opinion of that printer? all the good, all the bad, etc.? I'm very curious.

>>1690516
The good:
>really nice print quality
>really like using the second head for dissolvable support
>prints ASA and ABS well
>build quality is very good, overall frame is rigid
>enclosed
The bad:
>makerbot firmware
>sd card slot broke, apparently a common issue with this model
>build plate could be more rigid
>3 point level
>build area is kinda small

Anyone know of a good way to print parts with horizontal rods (parallel to print surface) subject to bending moments. Supports are fusing when I try, and threads lose their resolution.

I can just add ribs and print with the rods vertical, actually using less material than using supports, but I'm curious if there's a way to those supports without it being horrible so I can test and minmax it.

PETG ruins my nozzles after each few prints, how to hell should i clean this crap? Ethyl acetate isn't sold for private customers where i live. Does acetic acid work?

>>1690564
Not 100% sure, but odds are that it's non-polar, and wouldn't be affected by acids. In general it's chemical resistant.

Is it true that white petg filament is notably harder to print than other colors?

>>1690589

No issues noted here, I did a lot of white petg prints recently.

>>1690589
This probably depends on brand. The local PLA prints well in every colour except black, so there's probably something off about that particular dye. Could be the same with your white.

>>1690388
Thanks for checking it out. Im surprised it was fine for you

The fella at photon support sent me new firmware i upgraded everything. The times are short intentionally so it gets to the faulty layer faster.

>>1690628

No problem. You can give .photon files a look with this - https://github.com/Photonsters/PhotonFileValidator/releases

The bitmaps show up normally there too. After upgrading the firmware, did you run the second file from the zip?

>>1690564
I just preheat the nozzle and use a dremel to get the plastic off. Probably not great for the printer but I'm starting to hate the fucking things anyway.

>>1690564
what do you mean ruins your nozzles?
>>1690641
stop doing that

>>1690631
I know that program thanks, i also written my own editor. Layers show up fine in software, but the printer projects shifted layers.

Did you check it on an actual printer or just a file viewer?

>>1690528
>The bad:
>3 point level
Thats a good thing.
Some people do 3 point level mods.
It solves most "bent" bed problems on the ender 3 and the cr10. The bed is perfectly flat if you unmount it.
The problem is that the statically overdefined clamping of 4 spots twists the bed.

>>1690666
I think he ment as opposed to mesh leveling.

>>1690645

Actual printer, FW version 4.2.18_LCD/1440x2560/F2.9

>>1690698
Mine is 4.2.3_LCD/1440x2560/F2.5

Found out that this problem is called frame shearing, apparently other people had it. And it is fixed by 4.2.18 (what you have). It has nothing to do with the LCD being faulty.

Guess i just got a spare from anycubic....

>>1690476
is that a cock snap on cock ring?

>>1690826

Damn maybe i should complain too 8-)

>>1690861
If you get Chris to answer to your ticket, i bet you can get a free LCD.

I even told them my fw version, do they not have a guide or something?

today i learned

>stock 3d print surface for the ender 3 is good if you protect and take care of it and definately dont gouge it with a hot brass extruder that is set too low

>dont try to fix the gouge by sanding the surface and using a razor to remove the burrs

Bought a brand new one (and a glass plate i have not messed with yet) and its printing awesome.

Look at all this shit ive had for months to upgrade my ender 3 that ill probably never get around to.

>>1690921
I just did the aluminum feeder thing and its great.

>>1690925
extruder?
Mine was like 3 dollars on aliexpress I hope it turns out well

>screaming in fails at the 10th to last layer


Why u do dis

5 hours

>>1690936
Print the last 10 layer and glue it. Scream in happiness.

>>1690929
the gear that feeds the filament ya

>>1690483
takes a pretty hard crash to trigger it. I have fast travels hit and shift all the time without crash detection working. I'm gong to have to debug that too :-P

Accidentally printed this to small. I am just amazed at how detailed it still was.

>>1690936

5 hours is nothing, though?

Just print a new one, god damn.

>>1690846
How'd you know? The small one is mine.

>>1690904
oh yeah, first print on the ender came out awesome. Second print after releveling the damn thing I forgot about me raising the z level to level it... Burned a hole straight through the fucker.

Just got back from the hardware store with a couple of panes of glass and some binder clips. Gonna give a go of cutting glass.

>>1690986
its in my room I aint printing shit while i sleep

>>1690997

I do that all the time, what the fuck, man.

Put some dampers on that bitch if it's too loud.

>>1690989

Both of my Ender's beds were ass, nowhere near sufficiently flat. Glass went on immediately.

Also, hardware store glass is mad overpriced. Hit up the thrift stores for picture frames or mirrors. I paid like $6 for two beds worth of mirror.

Anything good here?

>>1691000
>Both of my Ender's beds were ass, nowhere near sufficiently flat. Glass went on immediately.

>>1691033
maybe it's the machine and not the glass lol

>>1691046
"Why can't it be both?"

>>1691000
Home depot has panes of glass for about $4 each. I bought mine oversized as well as got an extra pane. I figure the extra $2 I spent was for convenience because I needed the glass cutter as well while I was there.

I got the glass on and everything leveled out pretty damn good, but now my filament won't stick properly. What can I do to correct that issue now?

>>1688354
Update firmware for thermal reunaway, get a smart plug and smart smoke detector and have the detector trigger the plug if fire.

>>1691063
>Home depot has panes of glass for about $4 each
I'm surprised home depot glass is flat enough to print on

>>1691149
glass is glass

>>1691149
Cheap plate glass is "float glass" made by floating molten glass on molten tin. Not only is that an incredibly cheap way to make glass, it's probably the flattest thing you will ever touch

>>1690921
I've been meaning to install piezo bed leveling on my cr10. That was 3 months ago.

>>1691218
curvature of the earth yo

>>1690698
Upgraded to 4.2.19, frame shearing is gone.

Thanks brah.

If I need to print a brim to stop my parts from warping, what do I need to do to stop my brims from warping?

>>1691645
Slow first layer, more heat on bed, no fans.
Or you could just use more brim, go wild until the whole surface is brim.

What i learned today

>apparently the filament can come off the spool wrong and get tangled and snap and ruin your fucking print. At least i have an excuse to use new filament?

>I usually use finger nails to scrape the test side filament off the bed. Today it went under my fingernail all the fucking way up to my first knuckle and i got authentic vietnamese bamboo torture from my 3d printer. It wasnt nearly as bad as I thought it would be but still pretty bad.

>>1691663
>apparently the filament can come off the spool wrong and get tangled and snap and ruin your fucking print. At least i have an excuse to use new filament?

get filament that is decently rolled up and print yourself a filament guide. It's worth it.

>I usually use finger nails to scrape the test side filament off the bed. Today it went under my fingernail all the fucking way up to my first knuckle and i got authentic vietnamese bamboo torture from my 3d printer. It wasnt nearly as bad as I thought it would be but still pretty bad.

This has never happened to me, but now I'm going to be afraid every time I do the same. Thanks for that.

>>1691684
I never in a million years even thought something like that could happen.

but it happened in an instant. Went straight up my nail into the skin behind it.

>>1691033
>>1691046
I bough the glass bed and I still had a dip at the center, probably the X axis rail was a bit bent. Bought a BLtouch clone, perfect first layers every time, even on the stock magnetic bed. It was a bit of a pain to install and configure tho.

>>1691663
Guitar pick work kinda good to free your prints. Pick unrelated.

>find pic related on thingiverse
>know my brother is a big fan of the old simpsons
>decide to print it out in sections and enlarge

Overall height should be around 2 feet tall.

wew lads, My printer is going to be running non-stop for the next month. Has anyone burned down their house doing this?

>>1691699
you have any guides/resources to how you installed your BLtouch clone?

>>1691063
>Home depot has panes of glass for about $4 each

Weird. Last I checked, the cheapest pieces at my local HD were like $16.

>What can I do to correct that issue now?

The one issue with glass is that it absolutely must be damn near perfectly clean. Any contaminates or oils at all, including those that naturally hang out in the air from yo nasty, human-infested room, will cause adhesion problems. Your options are either wipe it off a billion times with a bunch of pieces of toilet paper/paper towel, or, like I do, use a squeegee. Wipe off once with TP and alcohol, spread a thin layer of alcohol around with a fresh piece of TP, wipe with squeegee. Should get it as clean as is realistically possible first try, unless it's extremely dirty. In which case, just do it again.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you need to either lower the initial Z offset slightly or raise the bed closer to the nozzle, just enough to get your material to be forced against the plate more. When everything's set up correctly, it should be damn near impossible to remove anything from the plate until it's below 30°C or so.

As another tip, try turning the build plate temperature up to 80-85 for the initial layer, then down to whatever you usually have it at for the rest of the print (65 in my case). I've had better success than I would have expected with this trick.

>>1691663
>>1691693
This is why I always approach it from the side, I had a bad experience with a sewing awl once and have been cautious ever since.

>>1690921
wtf
Why not take that time and money to buy a better printer in the first place? The ender 3 will always have its shit linear rails and its shit single z-axis, no matter what you do to it.
Just keep the ender stock. Its brilliant for its money but doesn't get that much better by modding.

>>1690904
will the build tak sanding meme ever stop?
If run my flex ender sheet through a couple spools now and its basically undamaged.

>>1690997
Get these damper feet off thingiverse for the ender, they're magic.
Also don't you have a store room where you can bolt a board on the wall to put the ender on it? Thats what I did.

>>1691000
>Both of my Ender's beds were ass, nowhere near sufficiently flat.
I found that mine was perfectly flat when I undid it. It gets warped by the statically overdefined 4 point levelling + the heat. Its a shit construction.
But I learend to live with it. Still prefer it over glass.

what sort of glue can I use to completely fill in a print? I printed something in vase mode and I want it to be solid

>>1691869
Polyester resin
Two-part epoxy
Cement

>>1691805
For the wiring part I used this, it's quite detailed, but lacks the firmware explanation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRgWrepDUBE
For the firmware (Vanilla Marlin) I used this, it goes into more detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY

There's a bracket you can print for it, but I just drilled a couple of holes on the fan cover, and installed it there with a couple of strong springs and nuts, that way everything is hidden and tucked in there and the distance between probe and nozzle is reduced. (You'll have to add this distance on the firmware anyway to compensate for the XY offset, so it doesn't matters much where you place it I guess)

The probe usually comes without wires or anything else, so buy it along with a couple meters of multi-color 20-21AWG stranded wire and jst connectors that fit into your control board. You'll have to do some crimping and soldering to get everything done.

To sum up:

1) Install the probe like it's showed in the video, probe position and mounting is up to you.
2) Get an arduino (or USBasp or other programmer) and burn the Arduino bootloader
3) Download and modify the firmware as seen in the video, enter your X and Y offset.
4) Upload using the USB port on your printer
5) Modify the start code in your slicer, add G29 after G28 to trigger the leveling feature.
6) Check your probe works with your finger, instead of crashing the nozzle into your bed.

>>1691618

Ay, i'm glad you got it working. I hope somebody comes up with an open firmware for Anycubic's motherboards, who knows how long they're going to keep developing new versions for it...

Hello friends. My part is warping like pic related. The troubleshooting page says it's common to set the bed temperature to 100c for ABS, is the same true for PLA? I've been printing with my bed at 50 and nozzle at 200 for the couple months I've been printing.

I can't set up a heated enclosure right now, but I'll try and keep the room I'm printed a little warmer. About to try reprinting with a raft

>>1691947
>https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Have you tried READING THE FUCKING OP

>>1691949
Did you even read my post?

>>1691950
No, he didn't.

>>1691947
You shouldn't really need an enclosure for PLA (technically you don't even ned bed heat). Could be a bunch if things going on; what are you using for bed adhesion now? You have any drafts in the room? Tried lowering your fan speed yet?

>>1691951
dude PLA basically warps when it feels like it, even on a 60C PEI bed
>>1691947
avoid sharp corners, add a brim, add a raft, crank bed heat up, squish the first layer more
there are your options, choose whichever you like

>>1691951
>>1691953
Just some borosilicate glass with a layer of pritt stick. I started using the glue when I was having trouble sticking a tiny tiny print to the bed and I've been using it since.
I had a window open in another room and I'm fairly certain the draft was coming into the room my printer's in. Printing again with doors shut and fans off.
For now I've upped the bed heat, and relevelled so it was slightly closer to the nozzle than before, and added a 25 line brim.
If this one fails I'll fiddle around with the fan speed

>>1691947
PLA:
Initial layer temp 80°C
other layers 65°C

PETG:
Initial layer temp 80°C
other layers 80°C

thank me later

>>1691966
if you use a sensor for bed leveling do not change the temperature
at least i have noticed that the first layer offset is different for different temperatures

>Get my brand new bed mat
>prints are sticking great
>one print failed (oh well)
>next print GOUGES THE BRAND NEW FUCKING MAT I GOT.

Guys what the fuck is the deal with leveling? is the ender 3 just a peice of shit that decides to move its level every time you touch it? Is it even worth some sort of mod that "auto levels" (how does that even work btw)

I have a glass plate that has been sitting waiting for this. And i have 1 last rubber crealty mat.

What the fuck is the deal. Do the chinese just hate us?

>>1691663
>>I usually use finger nails to scrape the test side filament off the bed.
No no no no no
Use a paint scraper. I have a metal one that I slightly sharpened and rounded the corners off of just for use with my printers.

Anybody know what these strange lines/marks are?

>>1692018
Having seen this quite a lot, I can tell you with confidence that your picture is of a potato.

>>1691876
I forgot to mention you still have to level your bed from time to time using the paper method. At the start the probe takes 9 measurements across the bed and moves the Z axis accordingly, the better you level your bed beforehand, the less Z axis corrections will be made, and the more accurate your prints will be.

>>1692040
Listen to this man
When I enabled manual mesh leveling I thought it was a good idea to get rid of the bed springs, since the leveling was done at firmware level anyway. I got almost 1mm difference of bed offset from a X axis end to another (ender 3) but thought who cares. Turns out the printer compensates the leveling drops while printing, and multiple copies of the same model on the bed came out different in height (which is an issue for me since I print and sell jigs)

>>1691970
Buy the yellow springs, it's like the only mandatory upgrade along with new bowden couplers

>>1692063
Yellow springs?

Also my original Bowden coupler (I think it’s the brass/plastic part that connects to the tube right?) works great but the replacement I got does not

>>1692018
The lines running Y on the left? You've probably got a bump on your X rail, it's raising your nozzle when the carriage rolls over it. Wouldn't worry about it unless you're OCD or something.

>>1691876
Thanks

>>1691858
Thats really not a lot of money in that picture the tl smoothers were like $3 a piece and the dampeners were like $1.75 the rest is just QOL stuff like an ABL switch and an orange pi for octoprint

>>1691811
Thanks, but I found that a 50/50 mixture of wood glue(or elmers) and water, brushed on, will make it adhere better than the stock magnetic mat the ender came with. Pretty much as easy to remove the finished print as with the mat because the glue doesn't stick all that well to the glass.

the glue does turn brown and looks like someone smeared shit all over the bed, but oh well.

I'm designing a pill dispenser because why not.
It has 30 slots between in two levels, as the slots rotate, pills come out the exit hole, and pills from the top level fall down below.
I'm having trouble imagining a neat way of turning the wheels. Maybe a mechanism similar to a retractable ballpen, but with 1/15 of the rotation, instead of 1/4.
Any ideas?

Any recommendations for SLA phosphorescent printing resins? I am not even sure it is a thing. Most of the materials I have looked at have been fluorescent/PLA.

>>1692099
thats what i thought but i cant see anything. would lightly sanding anything be a good idea?

Is there a way to disable automatic bed leveling before each print for the *MK2S*? I haven't been able to find anything that doesn't require me to reflash the firmware, which I want to avoid doing because it's a pain in the ass to unhook the printer from where it is and take it to the computer I use to do so. I'm doing Very Bad Things with the printer where the PINDA probe doesn't sense the print bed, so I need to disable it (or figure out a way to phase through solid matter).

just printed this today

it's a screw on cap for something and it has a one-way air valve that uses a marble. the screw threads fit tightly but there is still a lot of air leakage through them, I had to temporarily tape around it once it was fitted. the air valve works but just barely, I made it too large. I will try again some other time, I'll need to find a smaller ball to use.

>>1692176
I think leveling is coded in Slic3r>printer settings>custom g-code>start G-code, and is added to the beginning of every print.
comment out the line for mesh bed leveling by starting it with a semicolon ;

Or disable leveling with M420 S0;
(you can make a g-code file with notepad)
>http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html

how to make those six things solid?

>>1692280
How'd you make them wireframe in the first place? Loft the two hollow hexagonal planes and it should probably work

>>1692091
>Yellow springs?
Ya look for them on amazon, they're way stiffer than the stock ones and have flat ends

Here's some a e s t h e t i c s

Any Fusion360 people here? How would I go about putting the pattern in the right on the face of the cylinder on the left?

>>1692280
loft my dude

>>1692361
not sure if that can be done on Fusion

>>1692361
I think you want project to surface:
https://youtu.be/x7Cs4CbfJq0

>>1692414
Projection won't cut it, I deally I wouldn need wrapping.
But I could try projecting the sketch, repeating the sketch as a pattern and then extruding, it won't be precise, but might do the job.

This was my last attempt, quite shitty.

>>1692361
See
>>1692414
But if you have an eye for details that still wont be great. There is no way that I'm aware of to axial project on a cylinder. So your letters will be distorted on the sides as the projection moves farther away for parrelel with the surface.

>>1692418
Maybe you could do the opposite; make a sawtooth object, duplicate it x amount of times around the face and then subtract with them?

>>1692361
You want a wrap. Solidworks does a better job but I think fusion has it too. You might have to make sure that your pattern has the correct length in the sketch so that it doesn't overlap tho.

>>1692429
>>1692455
I finally did it by calculating the dimensions of a single piece, then projecting it, using it to cut a cylinder and repeating the pattern, I filled the voids and used it as a tool to cut the piece, it looks ok, but boy you'd think the guys from Autodesk would've figured a better way to do this by now.

Does anyone know if TPU is transparent to 5ghz wireless signals?

I'm working on this antenna cradle that's printed with TPU. Many times the drone will have hard impacts on the back, and the antenna slides down the flexible cradle thing.

I want to encase the entire antenna transmitting element with TPU so it will stay put, but I don't want it to severely interfere with the signal

>>1692472
I would think it's completely transparent to radio; they use it for phone cases.

>>1692489
that's a really good point, thanks

>>1692470
fuck are you even making?

Double Pew Pew

>>1692520
Pill dispenser, dispenses pills

>>1692654
I always wanted a 3d printed pervitin dispenser. Nice!

I need to design some parts for printing but I have 0 familiarity with this. What programs do you guys use to make files? Trying to cut through the crap and start learning something good? thank you for any suggestions

Hey fellas I don't really know anything about 3D printing but I know a lot about 4chan so I'm here to ask a question. My mom got tasked with finding a new 3D printer for the school she works at with a budget of $3k and I'd like some advice.

My bed temp doesn't work anymore, I tried other thermistors and the bed temp is unchanged.
The hot end works, if I plug the hot end thermistor into my bed port it doesn't work
is it possible that my controller fully works and only my bed temp 2 prong plug died? on the controller itself?

>>1692819
>3k
you can buy a fuckload of good printers with that, holy shit.

>>1692860
how bout some recommendations then friend

>>1692863
build an FT6 and charge the school $500 to put it together so you get moneys

>>1692872
Thats a cool idea but I don't know anything about assembling a 3d printer and I wouldn't want to hang my mom out to dry if I fucked it up

>>1692863
>>1692873
If you're looking to get some for a school,

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/51-original-prusa-i3-mk3s

Is probably the best you can get. It comes in either a kit or an assembled version (for a bit more money) and you can get almost 4 printers if you go for the kit. 2-3 people can assemble a kit at a time in a day, or you can just buy 3 of the assembled ones and they work out of the box. This specific model is sold by the guy who made the ones everybody else copies, so it's quality components.

Definitely do your own research, and provide us a bit more info if you can (e.g. age range, school type, are the kids technically minded, etc.)

>>1692819
>>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
>Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Have you tried reading the fucking copypasta?

For a school on a 3K budget I'd recommend an Ultimaker since there's less places for the kids to stick their fingers into compared to a Lulzbot, and ours have proven practically indestructable even when exposed to students for 7-8K print hours.

>>1692819
>school
Ultimaker 2

>>1692884
>This specific model is sold by the guy who made the ones everybody else copies
Post an example so I can tell you why this is false.

>>1692901
>Post an example
Wait, what? It's Josef Prusa. He's well-known he's been the driving force behind the initial i3s and the later Mendel models.

>>1692905
An example of a printer that you consider as copying from a design by Prusa. Sorry for being imprecise.

>>1692907
These are all based on the i3 design, with various cost-cutting measures based on the individual manufacturer

>>1692907
The Anet A6/A8 are clear copies, and the Ender 3 is the next step in the evolution if you consider the family as: Mendel -> Prusa i3 -> Ender -> Large volume (CR, etc.) - and then there's all the clones of the Ender and the CR's.

>>1692908
In your opinoin what defines the i3 design? My assupmtion was the main feature is a aluminum "single sheet frame" or a wooden "box style frame" made from 8 sheets of wood. The only one with this I see in your pic is the Geeetech.

>>1692909
So wouldn't it be more accurate to say everyone, includeing Prusa are "copying" from Ed Sells?

>>1692913
The Mendel isn't really a marketable printer, the Prusa is - and the prusa had been more directly copied.

Nothing in engineering is new though, it all started somewhere.

>>1692914
So because some fag is insitstant on putting his name on everything we should give them all the credit?

>>1692913
No, because that was a distinctly different design

>>1692911
Several things, all of which I can't remember because it's late, but chief among them the hollow vertical "pane", Y bed, XZ extruder carriage

>>1692915
Yeah, when that Some Fag designed it, they should pretty much get all the credit, I don't see the issue here

>>1692916
That pic is of a Darvin. Pic related is a Sells mendel which is where the Prusa mendel got its name.

>Ed Sells, a student of Dr. Adrian Bowyer, designed and built the first Mendel printer, sometimes called a "Sells Mendel" to distinguish the original design from later tweaks.
https://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel

>>1692917
But what if said fag coppied most of >>1692919

>>1692921
Which is why it's called a Prusa Mendel, as opposed to the Sells Mendel, mentioned in >>1692920, and why it's called the Prusa i3, because he designed it

>>1692924
so we are back to >>1692911
Given most other printers are sufficiantly different from the I3

Where can I learn Fusion in form of screenshots and text? Videos are just too inconvenient.

>>1692925
Not really.
>Cartesian
>U shaped upper frame
>Tool head on XZ, bed on Y

>>1692938
I gave up and just did the videos.

>>1692951
Would you call this I3-based?

>>1692954
Maybe? I think that's actually a CNC chassis. Google seems to think it's plywood, so I really can't be too sure.

>>1692957
It's an XCbot
https://reprap.org/wiki/XCbot
Predating the I3 by over a year.
Here is what prusa had around the same time:
https://reprap.org/wiki/File:Assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg

New Thread: >>1692972

>>1692559
Cool airsoft gun.

>>1690975
Is so SMOL
Laughing so hard im tearing up

>>1692063
is there any real difference between the ender 3 and the ender 3 pro?

Finished and tested my phoneholder, works great

>>1693833
cute tankmaskot too

>>1693408
Pro has the motherboard case upside down, which means you don't have to print a cover for the fan. It also comes with magnetic ripoff buildtak preinstalled. You could get these upgrades yourself for significantly less than the Pro costs.

>>1693408
Main differences are
>>1693842
and the less chink PSU, and the Y aluminium extrusion is double the width. Don't think it's worth the price increase

>>1691693
Same thing happened to me the first week I had my Ender. Now I always use the scraper. Lesson fucking learned.

>>1691663
I spray water around my print and let it pop off after a while, sounds painful. I haven't noticed any water absorbtion in my prints I've done this to. Well, on pla prints idk about ABS and other filaments.