/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1681746
Why is there a lifesize 3D printed sex doll in the OP picture?

>>1681749
I'm pretty sure those are a bit larger than life.

>>1681749

>Hard ABS Vagine

if that's your thing i guess

>>1681746
what's the hot shit in 3d printing right now?
any experimental mods that are going to be the new standard in three years?

>>1681754
Decent stepper drivers. Recently a drop-in replacement for the Ender 3 was released and everybody with one is upgrading, China literally has run out of stepper drivers. The benefits of the upgrade are smoother running and almost completely quiet steppers.

Good drivers have been common in all decent printers for years, but now that they're reaching the Ender 3 users we can expect them to shortly become standard in Chinese clones too.

>>1681755
>Decent stepper drivers
are trinamics still the benchmark?

>have been common in all decent printers for years, but now that they're reaching the Ender 3
honestly i don't care too much about what's trickling down to the low end market

the sweet spot imo is the $1-3k bracket, cheap enough for amateurs but enough profit margin to fund innovation

are there any companies pushing closed loop servos?
I stumbled upon https://odriverobotics.com/ and it seems like such an obvious choice for a superfast and precise printer

>>1681754
Non-planar top layer

>>1681766
How long before Cura gets it as one of those prototype options that sort of works but doesn't get properly implemented for a few years until everyone forgets about it?

>>1681762
>https://odriverobotics.com/
So essentially what they're doing is replacing steppers with hobby brushless DC motors with gearboxes and encoders?

I mean, yeah, that actually seems like a good idea, but is the end result going to be significantly better than just sticking with old-fashioned steppers? 2209s and 48Ncm steppers are every bit as cheap and ubiquitous as brushless DC, but they've also got a lot more industry presence.

>>1681766
uh that looks really nice
wondering when the first manufacturer will present a tilting hotend to get the most out of it
especially on a delta that would be some real alien space magic

>>1681771
>So essentially what they're doing is replacing steppers with hobby brushless DC motors with gearboxes and encoders?
yes, don't know where you picked up the gearbox, that isn't necessary
they're essentially building a budget version of industrial servos
i also really like the idea to use rc batteries as buffers to allow for high peak power without the need for fuck huge power supplies plus the bonus of regen braking

>is the end result going to be significantly better than just sticking with old-fashioned steppers?
yes you can get way more power and better efficiency from the brushless motors as well as higher precision and a more robust system due to the closed loop encoders

>industry presence
any industrial cnc machine worth its salt uses closed loop servos

>>1681766
Why should it be limited to just top layer? A multi layer mesh in infill could probably increase strength also. A Delta style printer with 4 z arms could support a nozzle that tilts to contour the underlying previous layer?

>>1681754
>any experimental mods that are going to be the new standard in three years?
working on several, wish me luck.

>>1681789
don't leave us hanging like that
show at least some teaser

>>1681771
>but is the end result going to be significantly better than just sticking with old-fashioned steppers?

For most machines, no. The fact is, FDM printers do not generally push their motion platforms hard enough to warrant the jump from steppers to servos. Limits imposed by the FDM process itself mean that steppers and belts are sufficient for the vast majority of use cases. That isn't to say that a servo-driven system wouldn't be ANY better, rather that the small increase in performance isn't going to impact the final result enough to be worth it in most cases.

If you're building a high-end machine, that's a different story. Closed-loop control, at the minimum, would be expected on any machine advertising itself as a performance model, if for no other reason than insurance against lost time (by far the most expensive thing in business). The additional speed brought along with it is just more to tack on the features list.

>>1681789
watcha doin?

>tfw building a high end printer for a big player in the research industry and can't talk about it because NDA
Fuck me I'm bouncing off the wall here because I want to show you guys how amazeballs this thing is.

>>1681773
>tilting hotend
I've seen some prototypes of a six axis machine that can print on domes, it's just a matter of time before highend machines get there. Useless for hobbyists though, the added reciprocating mass wouldn't work on desktop FDM machines.

>>1681771
> hobby brushless DC motors

I think cogging torque is the biggest problem with those.

>>1682011
there are lots of problems. using an encoder in closed loop is a neat idea, but I don't see it catching on.

>>1682011
Hall effect sensored brushless motors don’t have the cogging problem like sensorless ones.

>>1681754
>what's the hot shit in 3d printing right now?
>"cheap" SLS

>>1682067
pretty much. I find it a giant pain.

>>1681920

can you at least tell us the tech? FDM?

>>1681769
>How long before Cura
everyone is already chimping out about that:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5980

also 2016:
https://hackaday.com/2016/07/27/3d-printering-non-planar-layer-fdm/

>>1682067
>"cheap" SLS
how terrible is the nylon powder?
a makerspace i used to visit had an old zcorp gypsum printer and the powder was such a pain
it is ultra fine, goes everywhere and you have to constantly shovel it around and sieve it which spreads it even further

>>1681920
>Useless for hobbyists though, the added reciprocating mass wouldn't work on desktop FDM machines.
that's why it'd be so cool to see on a delta; mechanically it would be fairly easy to implement and there would be hardly any increase in reciprocating mass

>>1682090
I've been using 3dsys SLS for years and the powder gets everywhere even though our factory has a suitable ventilation.The powder itself isn't toxic but I'd rather not be breathing it 24/7.

The 10k€ SLS machines seems to be quite good allready and in few years these will be in every company doing r&d.

The three main competitors are:

Sinterit
Sintratek
Formlabs (Fuse is shipping in somewhere between q4 2119-q1 2200)

>>1682103
too bad that's kind of a deal breaker to me
I only have a small basement workshop that's hard to keep clean and tidy as it is
powder everywhere would be hell
maybe someday I can afford a bigger place with a dedicated dust room for SLS, woodworking and grinding

How low can we go, /3dpg/?

>>1681746
Dumb question from a newb: how hot can filament 3d printers go?
What's the limiting factor? Materials? Stress/cracking in the prints? Creep?

>>1682110
>our team of trained technichians
stopped reading there

>>1682115
PEEK
>Recommended Print Conditions:
>Extruder Temp: 375 - 410°C
>Bed Temp: 130 - 145°C
https://www.3dxtech.com/thermax-peek-3d-printing-filament-natural/

>>1681766
>hot shit
It was a thing like 3 years ago

>>1681915
The closest you can get is dental resins. But those are designed ONLY for a couple of minutes of contact with your mouth. I wouldn't risk it.
Safest bet is coating of wet food or drinking water grade epoxy coating

>>1682197
They dont say but you need inert atmosphere printing PEEK

>>1681746
anyone able to get good results flame smoothing pla?
or any other methods for smoothing pla yet?

>>1682232
just print at a layer height of 0.0000001 mm bro

>>1682067
Are you sure you don't mean SLA? SLS printers are still 10k+ AFAIK

>>1682197
Man, ESD PEKK is a right pain in the ass to print. There's like 4 factors I have to account for and I can't isolate any of them yet, and it sucks (bed temp, filament diameter, bed tackiness, and something else I'm forgetting at the moment). I've got some ultem tape coming in soonish which should help with the tackiness, at least, and then I can tackle the extrusion problems.

Is it any harder to print in PETG compared to PLA?

>>1682285
>Are you sure you don't mean SLA? SLS printers are still 10k+ AFAIK
Compared to the industrial machines 10k is cheap.

>>1682314
yes. but not much.

>>1682069
FDM, but not FFF.

Is there any filament stronger than Novamid 1030 CF10? E-mod of ~7500 MPa.

>>1682388
So you work for Stratasys or what?
Last time i checked FDM was trademarked by them.
Also see: https://reprap.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication
>Fused Filament Fabrication is equivalent to Fused Deposition Modeling

>>1682396
No, not Stratasys.
The process includes Fusing and Depositing material, but does not 100% match the Stratasys patents for ''FDM''.
The process does not include filament, so it's not FFF, but it also does not use pellets or particles (FPF).
I'd be surprised if the patent can even be found yet.

>>1682065

wot

They're identical, with the obvious distinction that one has sensors in it and the other doesn't. If you're talking about the problem sensorless controllers have with running a motor at low speed, that's not what is being discussed in terms of using them as servo motors. In that context, the problem is the unevenness of the rotor's response to the changing magnetic field the stator produces on it. This causes some difficulty with the extremely accurate positioning typically expected of servo systems, because the controller will tend to overshoot or undershoot by some encoder counts depending on where the rotor is.

Honestly, I would think it seems like a problem solved pretty easily through a combination of the right software and lowing your performance expectations for a budget system like that, but apparently it's not.

>>1682398
Laser deposition modelling?

>>1682398
Laser metal deposition?

Did anything ever happen with the MetallicaRap?

>>1682398
>>1682417
Nevermind. You said no particles.
Liquid is my best guess now. I think I remember reading about dispensing uv resin out of a nozzle and cureing it immediately.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_4tu4rAtgI

thoughts?
I might do it.

>>1682422
print it hollow and fill it with concrete

Do i need to lubricate the printer?
Now obviously i don't need to lubricate the rubber wheels in the aluminium rails and shit and the bearings in them are closed so those also don't need shit
But how about the z axis leadscrew, do i need to lube it? And what do i use? Just spray the threaded rod with some wd40?

>>1682421
Found it.
https://www.3ders.org/articles/20141009-pocket-sized-pocket3dprinter-will-be-a-portable-combination-fdm-sla-technology.html
Naturaly that failed hard but it's the only "FDM but not quite" I can think of.

>>1682232

No luck here, i've tried using a temperature controlled heatgun and while it does smooth the surface, it can very easily destroy it too. Hold it over the same spot a little too long and it starts to bubble or sag, especially on thinner walls. I'm still waiting for a spool of PVB to arrive for testing, it's supposed to print with the same settings as PLA, but dissolves in alcohol so it can be smoothed.

>>1682424
>>Just spray the threaded rod with some wd40
Anon, that's not a lubricant. It's a solvent, degreaser, and water-displacer. Just like how brake cleaner and PB blaster aren't lubricant either. Use plain silicone grease or plain lithium grease.

>>1682398
>>1682417
There's cold-spray and plasma-jetting. Both are kinetic deposition.
https://youtu.be/UUd8VM2d2pY

Then there's laser-sintered powder-jetting like what formally does. It is pretty similar to cnc wire-feed welding though and has awfully large voxel size.

>>1682232

You could call it the opposite of smoothing, but i according to this post, sandblasting will give prints a nice SLS-looking texture:

https://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?3665-Forget-Acetone-Sandblast-your-3D-prints

are TMC2130 the best drivers chink money can buy for 2A (current) steppers?

>>1682490
TMC2208 are the new hotness, they look to be set to take over from 2130. That said, nothing wrong with 2130 going forward.

>>1682535
And then there's the 2209, cooler, sensorless, quiet like 2130...

>>1682537
And the next gen is just hitting, looks like BIQU has TMC5160 based plug in drivers now.

>>1682538
But yeah, it's currently All Trinamic All Day.

>>1682535
>>1682537
Do they also have serial communication so you can set stuff on them like you could on tmc2130?
Main things i am interested in is the ability to set idling current for steppers to say 50% since i need them to be on all the time and also i need to be able to have a pin which goes high if the motor stalls (sensorless homing and shit)
the silent shit i don't use since it makes the motors weak and hot as fuck

>>1682558
I see they cost pretty much the same and look pretty much identical on paper
Tough choice

i made a wall mount for my /tv/

>>1682558
>the silent shit i don't use since it makes the motors weak and hot as fuck
Not the StealthChop; even the microplyer stuff makes them quiet as fuck.

>>1682558
>Do they also have serial communication so you can set stuff on them like you could on tmc2130?
yes
>also i need to be able to have a pin which goes high if the motor stalls (sensorless homing and shit)
they don't all have it, check the datasheets.

>>1682592
you need to re-do that wall bracket part, either print it horizontally so that the layers are oriented properly in reference to the forces acting upon the part or move the screw holes over to the "hook" part so that they support the part, as it is you're just begging for that thing to shear along the layer lines and your tv dropping to the ground
that is if you're printing with any of the ordinary filaments that have shit tier layer strength

>>1682538
>TMC5160
Shit man those are expensive as fuck, more than twice than the rest of them and they apparently run marlin 2.0 as a firmware? wot?
they must mean they are compatible with boards that run it, since they are generic pinout so hopefully they work as direct drop in for the other drivers

>>1682599
i worry about printing it vertically because the peak stress is at the bolt holes and the preload imposed under the bolt heads could split the layers there instead. since the tv is only 15lb it's probably alright either way though.

>>1682608
yeah i suppose that might be an issue, then i suggest you move the screw holes to the "hook" part, however it might well be just fine since it's only 7kg

>>1682110

>>1682612
116€>$116

>>1682613
So what? This is 106.29 euros, which is 115 dollaridoos.

>>1682612
>nylon
Are they seriously implying that thing has an all-metal hotend?

>>1682616
you forgot about the 20€ shipping fee which was already included in the other machine's price

>>1682620
Are you on drugs or something?
The price is very clearly 86.29 euros, with a 20 euro shipping fee. If I punch those numbers into my trustly old Ti-83Plus scientific graphing calculator, it says 106.29.

>>1682611
that's a great idea. i could have the tv sit 1/2" closer to the wall that way too by eliminating the backplate on the wall hook.

>>1682592
nice
don't listen to this faggot:
>>1682599
evaluate the stress on the part and only reprint if you think its necessary

>>1682618
>implying you need an "all metal hotend" for nylon
>whatever that even means

>>1682669
Have fun accounting for layer orientation, infill settings, wall thickness etc. in your stress test program

>>1682674
I've built a bicycle wall mount that holds the bike at the frame.
Bike weight on full layer shear force.
Print is 250mm tall and the bike pulls at 240mm with about 12 kilos.
PLA snapped after 2 weeks in the middle of the night. (which made me laugh)
PETG holds for months now.
The smearing effect is quite visible though (plastic deforming after applying constant force for a long time)

>>1682678
Why limit yourself so much with the layer orientation?

>>1682678
testing forces before bolting it to the wall

>>1682683
I sure hope that's not a completely circular cross section, i hope it's at least ellipse, cant tell from pic

>>1682682
because it does not matter 'that much' when you have your temp high enough and your print slow enough.
Doesn't apply to all prints and situations obviously.

>>1682684
perfectly circular.
I wonder how an elliptic shape would behave. On first bet I wouldn't say its better for granted. Elliptic would make the first crack easier to occur because of the thinner cross sections at the top and bottom.

>>1682689
While i know that you can get some pretty crazy layer strengths with some materials i'm kinda doubtful of PLA reaching any sort of respectable numbers even with high temps etc.

>>1682535
>TMC2208
yo gramps, 2209 is out!

>>1682702
>yo gramps, 2209 is out!
they're not equivalent feature sets, kiddo.

>>1682704
no shit kid

>>1682705
so is it gramps or kid? Or are you just crusty as hell?
>inb4 evil Adrian Bowyer with a goatee

>>1682706
okay
why would you take a TMC2208 over a TMC2209?

>>1682708
Personally I wouldn't, but the 2208 is cheaper and if you're not going to use the extra features.....

how much will i regret single-line walls for this bolt organizer, 200mm square

>>1682715
>the 2208 is cheaper
yes, it is cheaper. it's not mainly the features, it is the lower rds on resistance.

>>1682718
Depends on if you plan on picking it up with bolts in it or not

>>1682718
Very, they'll fail pretty quickly if you have to do any amount of digging around in there

>>1682718
At what extruision width? I did mine at 1.5mm and its fine.

>>1682718
single wall pathing is terrible for connected-ness

to the CR-10 /guys/
I got one from a friend for 100 bucks. He said he ran two spools through it.
Currently fixing his whacky assembly.
One thing I don't get is top spindle bearing, pic related.
It has a lot of slack and the plastic cover (removed in this pic) does not secure it.
Is this supposed to be that way?

>>1682883
Yes. The spindle is only there to lift or lower the carriage. It has no purpose for alignment. Many printers don't have a spindle bearing on the top at all, because it's only aesthetic.

The thing that guides the carriage is either linear bearings on polished rods (most Prusa clones), or as in your case, little wheels that use the grooves in the extrusion as a sort of "train track".

>>1682912
Ok thanks.
First benchy printing and it looks good so far.

Is there any way to speed up the bed heating?
It takes literally 5x as long as on my ender.
The cable warms up a little.

>>1682937
Does your ender have a glass bed?
How long the bed takes to heat is mostly about how much mass you actually have to heat. The ender is a small printer and the bed is just an aluminium plate with a sticker on top, so it heats quite quickly. You could do a PID tune, just google the term, but it's unlikely to speed things up, it mainly helps keep the temperature stable. Stock configuration for most printers is to not have PID on the bed and to just use "bang-bang", which is the quickest option (but does lead to slight temperature fluctuations, which can contribute to visibility of layer lines).

>>1682937
it's a big bed
and i'm doubtful the board can handle any more amps, add an offboard solution and you might be able to increase the speed

>>1682912

Wobble on the leadscrew can get transferred to the X-axis if the system is janky so it's not only aesthetic.

>>1682937

No, that's a common issue with big beds. There are some types set up to run at mains AC, where the printer switches them using a solid state relay, but more often the printers use 12V like their smaller bed versions for cheapness, so it's slow.

>>1682941
>12V
Fortunately Creality aren't that big shitheads. Their printers run at 24V.

>>1682938
you are right. no glass on ender => faster heating up.
I've already ordered a buildtak bed by Creality, I don't like glass so much.

>>1682939
yeah, I'll see how much it bothers me. I might use a 12v relais on the bed output to switch some 19V laptop power supply for the bed.

>>1682951
The stock bed is 24V, your laptop charger probably won't improve anything.

>>1682951
>I might use a 12v relais on the bed output to switch some 19V laptop power supply for the bed.

A laptop power supply is going to explode if you do that. A normal-size 210x210 bed draws about 180W and on the CR10 it has to be at least 240W.

>>1682954
>>1682955
Stock bed is 12V. 7 Volts more would theoretically mean 2.5x faster heating. (P = U2/R)

>Standard laptop supply blows up
I've got 250W industrial ones. But I'd have to do the math before obviously. That was just an example, I'll see which supply I'll use.

(skilled electrician btw)
I'll keep you updated

Printed this last night.
Is anyone else using a DLP style printer?

>>1683023
Using a Photon personally, and ordered a Form 3 for work, so I'm curious how they'll compare when it gets in.

That's the device that lets you steer with both thumbs, right?

>>1683023
genious design

Any one here have a FT-6 ? just finished setting mine up and i am very satisfied with the quality so far.

>>1683023
All I can see is a controller wearing a Bane mask

I made this a year ago, but I fried the screen. I'm replacing the screen soon, maybe today. A 3D printed emulation system.

>>1683161
Raspberry Pi?

>>1681746
how can i change support layer height on prusaslicer 2.1?
im trying to print at layer height of .8 but support height is stuck at about .3.
the sync to object layer height doesnt work unless i switch to contact distance of 0 (for soluable supports).

>not a bug, this is a feature

>>1683161
How are you going to 3D print a new screen?

>>1683161
Looks more like sculped out of clay than 3d printed.
Something is wrong with your printer.

>>1683159
>If I separate those layers, will you die?

Recently found out tinkercad lets you edit STL/OBJ files really fucking easily. Been using it to quickly change hole sizes of thingiverse files.

>>1682682
Most people who post here are too brainlet to even know about layer orientation

>>1683207
Just looks like he uses the bottom layer as the top of the unit with an unlevel bed/uneven extrusion

Some modification of marlin would allow a trinamic drive to detect a clicking extruder. Could this be used to not require extruder/filament calibration? The fw could detect clicks and adjust the extrusion rate to apply constant nozzle pressure.

>>1683435
>Some modification of marlin would allow a trinamic drive to detect a clicking extruder.
Not all that likely really. The signal is likely to be far too noisy to make that kind of detection reliable.
>The fw could detect clicks and adjust the extrusion rate to apply constant nozzle pressure.
Let's put it this way-- the signal you'd be looking for is considerably smaller than just the temperature change from idle to a few seconds of extrusion.

>>1683456
Hm... thinking about it still though... I bet I could get it to work 95% of the time. Maybe 99.9 if my life truly depended on it.

Anyone have recommendations on how to take off material on the bed from being too close?

I tried heating up the bed and picking at it trying to take it off but I feel that there might be an easier way.

>upload a 10cm diameter torus to Shapeways
>quoted $120+ for standard PLA

At what point does it become practical to just buy a 3D printer?

>>1683172
>im trying to print at layer height of .8
You do realise this is quite a lot, right?

>>1683525
Depending on the exact print: anywhere between one and ten prints.
My Chiron paid for itself after somebody asked me to print something big that Shapeways quoted twice the purchase price of a Chiron for, so I offered him a deal at only half. Free printer for me, and he got to do his research.

>>1683509
Carefully with the spatula. When there's still something left it is so flat that it doesn't matter.
When you print over it it will come off with the next print.
My ender plate has some PETG leftovers here and there but that doesn't bother me.

>>1683435
>Could this be used to not require extruder/filament calibration?

I don't think you get what extruder/filament calibration is about... The Esteps is a very specific number that takes into account the diameter of the hob and how deep its teeth sink into the filament. After that the even finer tuning you do on the extrusion multiplier is to account for the specific spool's diameter and viscosity. It's good if you can detect skipped steps but you shouldn't really be having them in the first place, trinamic or not. If yours is clicking it means you either don't have sufficient current going to the motor and/or are printing too fast.

How can I clean the nozzles on my Ender 3?
When I print PLA fast I often have partial clogs throughout the print.
Cold pulling is too much of a hassle (getting the teflon tube out end all).
I just replace the nozzles but I now have a few clogged ones laying around and thought about cleaning them.

I was thinking about cooking them in oil to get the plastic out. Anyone tried this?

>>1683509
I usually scrub it off with a magic eraser or similar.

>>1683338
It would be extremely weakened

>>1683581
Put them in the flame of a bunsen burner or blowtorch. Don't let them get red hot, just repeat untill of the schmoo is out.

>>1683609
>Don't let them get red hot, just repeat untill of the schmoo is out
PLA is literally just sugar, you'll have reduced it to gasses in the atmosphere long before brass glows red.

>>1683161
>>1683168
Yes, the Raspberry PI 3
>>1683195
>>1683207
>>1683415

It is complete. I have to troubleshoot something on it, but it charges, it plays games, it has sound. It runs D O O M.

>>1683565
I’ve been a little rough with the spatula, I gotta admit. I saw some guy online using some light sandpaper to get it off. I should just continue printing over it?

I've ordered an arduino uno and some cables to update the firmware on my wanhao i3 clone to include thermal runaway protection as well as a higher max temp to accommodate my all metal hotend and printing PC.

Is a 12v PSU going to be able to handle heating a nozzle past 275C? Currently the temp fluctuates from 280-260 when printing at 275C like I have a bad PID tune. Could this be because my firmware is spazzing out because I'm hitting max temp? Otherwise lower temp control is fine.

Also what is the highest max temp I can set and still run my bed safely? Printing PC is a bitch. I have a MOFSET installed with 14guage wires.

>>1683609

I've done that, but with a regular cig lighter. While it does completely incinerate any PLA in there, scrubbing all the soot off the nozzle afterwards is a chore.

>>1683663

Yes a 12V PSU is fine, the 30-40W heater cartridge doesn't draw more power for higher temps, it just stays on longer. With that being said, make sure both the cartridge and thermistor are rated for that kind of temp. Your thermistor could very easily be rater for 250C so you get the wacky fluctuations. When doing a PID tuning it would help to do it using the desired temp too.

>>1683663

If you need a high-temp bed perhaps it's better to look into using an SSR and a silicone heater with Alu plate. Not that you can't do it at 12V but it's probably going to take forever. In short, it varies with the type of bed you have.

>>1683581
They aren't really clogged, your extruder is just too weak or your extruder spring isn't tight enough, a common issue with chinkshit printers

>>1683364
I use it to remove watermarks.

The wires that lead to my heater cartridge are getting so hot that the shrink wrap I applied around my ghetto ass knot melts. This only happens after an extended period after I install a new heater cartridge. What is going wrong here? Am I not connecting the wires properly?

>>1683704
>ghetto ass knot
What in the absolute fuck
Solder them or use some proper connectors

>>1683673
But why does that happen only at the end of the print?
First 80% are ok.
I couldn't observe it unfortunately.

I've printed PLA at 0.28mm layer height at 42mm/s. Is that too much thermal load for the Ender 3 hotend?

>>1683707
Dude I have printed at 80mm/s at 0.2mm layers, it's not a thermal load problem. Maybe your retraction is too high? Or your teflon tube is not 100% coupled with the nozzle

>>1683706
well usually just re-doing the knot fixes it. Would tin solder suffice for a heater cartridge or would I need silver?

>>1683651
99% of the time just printing over it is fine. If you want to you can try scraping it off, but you're more likely to mess the bed up. What I do if I have a patch of stuck filament that I need to get rid of (for example if it's a different colour and I care about how what I'm printing will look) is print a 2mm thick disc over the patch. Most of the time when you remove the disc, the stuck filament comes with.

But even if you do mess up the bed, these buildtak-esque things are pretty easy to fix, just grab some P80 sandpaper and scratch it up. Once you clean the resulting dust off it will be as good as new.

>>1683707
no idea, it just does, crank up your stepper current and tighten the extruder spring

>>1683726
Got it, thanks

>>1683704
1. Holy shit, how have you not died from an electrical fire?
2. Why are you not just stripping the ends of the heater cartridge wire and running them straight onto the board? I think everyone's board is using screw terminals (at least I've never seen a board that doesn't).
3. No seriously, how have you survived up to this point?

>halfway through several day long print
>notice filament will run out in a few hours, in the middle of the night
>can't just stay up to feed a new spool in since tomorrow is an important day at work
I cut off some old PTFE and squeezed the end of this filament to the beginning of the next spool in the middle of it, and held a lighter under it for a few seconds. Once it hardened I scaled back a little at the plastic with a knife until it was as good as I was going to get it.
Wish me luck, anons.

>>1683859
I made a prototype for a filament joiner (just proof of concept, didn't actually work at getting the diameter exactly right), some students at my university are going to make it into a reality. Will post updates within 6 months.

>>1683859
>>1683864
Good printers know when they run out and just ask for a new spool.

>>1683864
Also, you just invented the Palette Fuse Core, so, like, mind the patents.

>>1683780
it would be a pain in the ass to run it down the protective chain and then sleeve to reach the board. how exactly is doing this going to start an electrical fire?

>>1683877
>how exactly is doing this going to start an electrical fire?
poor contact == resistance. resistance == heat. heat == oxidation. oxidation == more resistance. more resistance == more heat. lather, rinse, repeat.

Or I could just say "wait, and you'll see." And so will everyone else. And then you can be the Warning To Others tripfag.

>>1683877
If the connection is getting hot enough to melt shrinkwrap, you are begging for a giant world of hurt.

>>1683884
This explains why it doesn’t happen at first but gets worse over time. I will solder it and see how it goes.

>>1683560
yes, meaning you can print alot faster.
u also dont reallly lost that strength, u just sacrifice resolution

>>1683560
>>1684030
that's the whole point of the Volcano HE. I regularly print with a height of .8 with a 1.0 nozzle.

Currently working on a previous student's 3D-printer project, the wiring is FUBAR. Going to start all over, with XT60 connectors for the bed and Molex Microfit for the heater, motors and some other electronicals. That leaves the sensors (PT100, endstops) and such, what are the best disconnects for those? I'd prefer not to use Microfit there as well, to keep the three tiers seperated, but I can't really find a good alternative. Not gonna go with Dupont either, switching polarity on those is too damn easy.

>>1684250
I usually end up abusing pin headers as connectors, but I too am interested in better solution.

>>1684250
JST connectors?

Anyone have the right settings for the Ender 3 making lithophanes?

I almost got through the whole print and then this was what happened on the top of the print after I took off the ball of strings that were left over. I just modified it a little bit more but this second time I modified it, it seemed to have moved the model. Should I just bump up the retract distance like crazy more than 10mm?

is the Anet N4 LCD Resin any good? its on sale for 300

>>1684309
how much is it? 300 for 1L would be a bad deal.

How long before Autodesk suddenly decides everyone needs to pay $80/mo for Fusion 360, and free hobbyist copies get message popup saying the free license expires in 3 months?

>>1684570
I mean, it's going to happen someday, that hardly seems like the end of the world. Export the models in STEP, pull 'em into something else.

>>1684570
don't care, just got into university and i might switch over to NX

>>1684570
Honestly, I'd pay the 80, even if I'm still just messing around like I am now. Good software is worth a price. Though I admit a lower price would be nice

>>1684495
https://shop.anet3d.com/collections/anet-lcd-3d-printers/products/anet-n4

>>1684645
Also consider
https://www.myminifactory.com/product/elegoo-mars
279 with free ship

Anyone have recommendations for silver PLA on Amazon?

>>1684570
Why would they? They obviously make enough money from Inventor and the Cloud Credits to be be able to provide most of Fusion for free. If you really really want, you certainly can pay for it, but unless you're doing something more than modeling there's no need to.

I've bought an STM32 motherboard for my ender. When it arrives and I install it, do you think it will be possible to install something like the Prusa MMU?

>>1684792
possible, yes. You'll need code to actually command the MMU to do things--- it's a fairly dumb device that needs to be driven by the main board.
It's also reasonably straightforward. Once you've got it talking over a serial link, you just need to send it simple commands.

There is one gotcha--- it assumes there's an extruder that can tell it when the filament has arrived and is loaded in the extruder's gears. It can't do extrusion feed itself.

>>1684794
I'll want to print a new extruder then, the stock ender 3 one is really finicky to get the filament to actually go into the hole on the other side of the gear. Or I could try using a knife to widen the "funnel". I have a leftover endstop switch from my bltouch upgrade, I could use that to make a filament sensor.

Isn't there something like a marlin plugin for MMU? Surely I'm not the first guy to have had this idea?

>>1684802
>Isn't there something like a marlin plugin for MMU?
Maybe? I don't know. It does seem like a logical thing to want.
What I do know is the MMU inside and out, so if there's isn't such a thing, making one is likely no big deal.

>>1684802
>I could use that to make a filament sensor.
It needs something a little different--- it needs to know the filament is fully loaded and in the extruder gears for sure, because at that point it disengages its own feed. You don't want it to let go before the extruder has it, and you don't want it to keep feeding once the extruder has engaged.
That is the big difference between MMU2 and MMU2S. The 2 just tried to calibrate the distance and was a giant pain in the ass. The 2S added a sensor that trips when the extruder gears part because the filament is engaged. No calibration, no fuss.

>>1684811
Okay, now I get it.
I might be able to figure something out. Really want that multi-material function and really don't want to bother with something as obviously dumb as double nozzles..

>>1684815
How many materials do you want? Because if 2 is enough an IDEX setup makes way more sense than the abomination called MMU.

>>1684811
>no fuss
Eh... I get what you're saying, but the filament sensor has been less than reliable so far. I don't know why, but they decided to switch the magnetic-and-ball assembly (which worked perfectly fine) to a lever that moves when the filament is inserted. Problem is, it's very finicky, and simultaneously too sensitive and not sensitive enough (either it's always on or always off, or the slight eccentricity of the assembly they have is enough to continuously trigger it).

Though I'm sure it's better than the MMU2.

>>1684826
>Eh... I get what you're saying, but the filament sensor has been less than reliable so far.
Yeah. The implementation was apparently a community contribution. I've got a redesign of the adapter and we're about to launch that along with some extended MMU versions. The idea of having the sensor trigger off the rollers moving apart is a really good idea, but they way it's currently being done is... not good enough
> Though I'm sure it's better than the MMU2.
It is. The basic premise is excellent, the design as shipped is flawed. we're aiming to make it perfect. We'll see soon enough if the redesign is successful.

Well now I have no idea what I'm doing wrong
My Mega-S started stopping in the middle of prints, and I went through just about everything short of flashing a new firmware and eventually it got to the point where it wouldn't even leave the home position, so I emailed tech support and they sent me a file to test and it printed perfectly(minus some stringing)

>>1683731
how do I do "crank up the stepper current"?
Is it a setting in the menu or some pot on the mainboard?
Or do I have to go really bananas and flash new FW and buy a new mainboard and shit?

>>1684945
Depends on your stepper driver. For cheap drivers, it's either a pot or a resistor soldered on. In the latter case you're pretty much fucked. On a good driver, it might be set electronically, in this case you should check the printer configuration menu, or you might need to recompile your firmware

But it's probably a pot.

I need to turn this here .stl mesh into an outward shell. It's a CT scan of a hipbone, with 5000 faces, and therefore it really does not like being shelled in Solidworks. I've tried everything in my own toolbox, including smoothing in Meshmixer, importing it as a surface and then using Thicken, trying to make a surface out a Scan to 3D mesh and then Thickening.... I'm out of ideas and it's frustrating the hell out of me.

My suggestion to 3D print the hip, make a silicone negative mold and then scan the negative did not go over well.

Maybe I could just subtract the mesh from a boss, leaving a negative in Solidworks than can then be modified? Any other ideas?

>>1684956
>Maybe I could just subtract the mesh from a boss, leaving a negative in Solidworks than can then be modified?
Solidworks is good for doing this with solid models, but sucks at doing it with mesh models.
What you want to do can be done pretty readily in Blender. You make two cubes, scale and position them manually for two mold halves around your existing mesh. Then use a boolean subtraction modifier with each one to subtract the existing mesh from both cubes. Now you have two mold halves that you can print.

>>1683581
Just dealt with my first clog.
>>1683609 worked great,
>>1683618 seemed to apply, the visible stuff on the tip just disappeared, didn't even leave ash behind

To clean the inside, toothpicks were just the right size to fit inside with a little interfearance. Taper was wrong though so I put it in, twisted it about, pulled it out and snipped a bit off the end and repeated until got to the big diameter. repeated with new toothpick
About 3 toothpicks and they were coming out clean.

>>1683618
I just realised that this is why it has that pleasant smell.

>>1682883
>I got one from a friend for 100 bucks.
Don't forget to call him a faggot for getting a 3D printer and dropping it after two spools.
Just in case your friend lurks here:
You are a faggot. You most likely got it for printing degenerate stuff from [redacted] and were to retarded to design something on your own.

>>1684952
It's a stock Ender 3. (shipped with flex bed)
>resistor soldered on
>fucked
I can just replace the resistor with a pot

>>1684938
Are you using some big fat high-tri files? What have you been trying to print? If their G-Code is fine there's something going on with your slicing it seems.

>>1685035
>Don't forget to call him a faggot for getting a 3D printer and dropping it after two spools.
lel, I see what you think but the story goes a little different.
That guy is an artist and got an Ultimaker sponsored directly by Ultimaker for his work. He just ditched the CR10 he had. He only wanted to use one filament diameter.

He made a big abstract clay model of a human, scanned it with photogrammetry and printed a shit ton of miniatures. (like 1000)
In an exhibition he presented the clay model and let visitors play and build with the miniatures around it while an Ultimaker was doing more next to it.
Visitors could then buy miniatures.

>>1685063
>I can just replace the resistor with a pot
I would assume the resistor would be surface mount. If you're wasting space for a through-hole resistor you might as well put in a screw pot anyway.
I mean, you could solder on a pot surface mount too, but it would be unusual.

>>1685083
pots almost never have the same power rating as a fixed resistor. Pay attention to what you're doing....

>>1685088
I don't think they run the stepper power through the pots, do they? I thought it was just to adjust the pwm the driver puts out.

>>1685089
they couldn't. No surface mount pot could handle it. But it's still possible to accidentally use a pot only rated for a handful of adjustments at tiny power.

>get a weirdass jam in my PTFE tube, literally cannot get the plastic out even after dipping it in boiling water
>decide I might as well bite the bullet and buy a capricorn tube and all-metal hotend that I've wanted
>install it
>prints perfectly right away, no seepage whatsoever even though many of the reviews said they had a problem with it
I am content. I'll run a PID tune tomorrow, but this is a great start.

I was planning on upgrading my 16awg wires for my mofset/heated bed to 14awg. Turns out the wires i got from amazon are copper and I need to splice them with aluminum. This is no good right?

>>1685125
>>1685125
>Turns out the wires i got from amazon are copper and I need to splice them with aluminum. This is no good right?
are you okay?

>>1685128
look one wire is brown the other is silver. What do. I googled it and the answer seems to be no.

>>1685066
Mostly just scatter terrain for D&D, and a boat, but nothing particularly polygon intensive
I think it's my computer since nothing I take off of my computer will print, but the test file they sent me will I just dont have any other way to test it

>>1685125
It might be tinned copper which makes it look like aluminum. The writing if any on the wire is a codec. Google it to see. Or try to melt some off. Or get https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Twister-Al-Cu-Wire-Connectors-Purple-10-Pack-30-1765S/202935623&ved=2ahUKEwjan-SB19vkAhUNI6wKHaoeCWwQFjAKegQICRAC&usg=AOvVaw0YCKUO5g_cOum2ul5i8oHM

>>1685134
It is fine.
Copper is a much better conductor than aluminum, so it is preferable to use that, but if you have to splice the two, you can solder them without issue

>>1684938
Stick your gcode into https://ncviewer.com/ and see if it looks weird. It'll be offcenter because that's how this thing interpets it, though.

>>1685144
The biggest hazard with soldering aluminum though is that it can become brittle if it is bent frequently, especially at solder joints, so it is a good idea to secure the joint somehow so that it cannot bend. You could use a couple of sleeves of heatshrink tubing, some kind of splint, or attaching the wires to something stationary with a ziptie.

Hey guys, I just ordered my first roll of PETG and I know how the temp has to be higher for it to print but does this mean I should replace the tubing on my ender 3? I have had my ender three for about a week now and everything has been printing nicely with PLA and has been printing non stop.

>>1685146
how u gonna solder aluminum?

>>1685202
With solder and a soldering iron. If the aluminum is freshly stripped it generally solders fine.

>work at an r&d/manufacturing lab
>machine shop department has giant 3d printers
>they take proprietary filament boxes
>printer says box is empty
>easily has over 25 cubic inches of filament left. Maybe as much as 50
>machineshopbro hooks me up with the almost empty boxes since they're just gonna toss them otherwise
I'm in infinite ASA heaven

>>1682398

it wouldn't happen to use sheets, would it?

>>1685221
Vaguely same for me, we have Stratasys machines at work, and I get the remains of filament canisters. Though, since I saw all we had were Stratasys and Flashforges and ordered some new printers, nobody uses the Stratasys anymore, so I kind of screwed myself over there.

How does PLA+ compare to ABS? Is it as durable but just easier to print?

>>1685258
>Is it as durable

Meh

>just easier to print?

yeah, a bit. doesn't do as well as straight PLA in my experience, but I usually buy cheapo brands when testing a material. The eSun PLA vs. eSun PLA+ test I ran made the PLA+ look much more picky with bed conditions than PLA, which is typically why I avoid ABS.

Other anons probably have more experience with it though.

>>1685237
Nope.

>>1685125
>copper and I need to splice them with aluminum
I have never seen an alu wire in electronics before.
But I don't see the problem. You might have some corosion problem but just keep an eye on it and you're good.
>I was planning on upgrading my 16awg wires for my mofset/heated bed to 14awg
why the effort?

>>1685125
>I need to splice them with aluminum.

>>1685134


man, it's probably tinned copper. aluminum wire, even stranded, is copperclad nowadays. if the wire is silver and bends easily, it isn't aluminum, almost guaranteed.

>>1685258
If you want more strength you'll be better off going for PETG. If you want slightly more strength but still effortless prints, PLA+.

Easy - Difficult
"Weak" - "Strong"
PLA - PLA+ - PETG - ABS - Nylon

It's not really as simple as that though, PETG for instance bends easier than PLA, but it takes significantly more force before it actually breaks.

>>1685300
don't forget annealed PLA.

>>1685300
I like how petg feels but it has terrible impact resistance worse than pla.

I've discovered that the key to printing on glass is preheating. If I heat the glass up a few minutes before I start the print, I don't get anywhere near as much curling. Usually when I print on glass the corners curl up after an hour, and for bigger things they often come loose two hours in.

>>1682937
You can put some of the insulating tape in the bottom

Boss wants to get a 3D printer at work, none of us have any experience with it. Looks like the creality cr10 or the prusa is3 would be our best options, any recommendations?

>>1685381
>any recommendations?
1. Read the fucking OP.
2. What volume do you need?

>>1685382
1. I did. That doesnt mean i know anything about it lmao
2. Low volume, just prototype stuff and for fun

>>1685386
>That doesnt mean i know anything about it lmao
>Yeah just tell me what to buy for a business because I have zero knowledge
Ultimaker.

>>1685388
Damn i dont remember saying that, thats crazy

>>1684938
Might be a "spend X amount of time per layer" setup in the G-code or some weird Z-hop setup.

>>1685389
Suggestion still stands. If you don't ''know anything about it lmao'' (it being 3D printing) and want to get a printer for a professional workshop, don't bother with chinkshit (Ender, CR-10, Chiron) or kits (Anet, Prusa), get an Ultimaker, experiment untill you understand the process and workflow, and then you can buy cheap chinkshit to get the production volume you want.

>>1685381
>>1685388
markforged desktop series if you guys want really nice and dependable parts

>>1685381
I personally am a big fan of Anycubic, they're cheap chinkshit but they have actual QC standards and amazing customer support

>>1685381
>any recommendations?
How many people will be dicking around with it and trying to print on it? If it's just you, leave it up to your preferences and what feature set you think you are familiar with.

If everyone and their secretary need to be able to get it to print I would just get a refurbished lulzbot mini v1.04.

>>1685418
>amazing customer support

I got a photon recently and wanted to grab the latest firmware for it - support section has been completely removed from the anycubic website. Had to look for it in some community made github repo... What happened?

New ender 3 pro doing the dog model. First print failed immediately and after messing with z input the second one lasted much longer but failed at the head. Dunno what’s wrong other than the clicking grinding sound and vibration when it starts failing.

Any tips?

>>1685552
Sounds like the Z axis is out of whack. Try raising it and lowering it in the software and see if it binds up anywhere. If the Z axis stops going up, the nozzle will catch on the object

Does the printhead gantry for the ender 3 naturally slant or is that something I should think about fixing?

>>1685556
its not really catching. It was doing great for like an hour. Then all the sudden there was a bump and it got bigger until basically it couldnt print.

when i first got it and ran it the nozzle was touching the bed. So i fixed that right away.

I dont know what could be wrong since i already raised the Z axis once.

>>1685559
When i put mine together today the box thing with fans and the nozzle was crooked. I losened the top screw and wiggled it straight and tightened it. I dont know if it fucked anything up here. >>1685552

>>1685560
>there was a bump and it got bigger
Like a noise, a jerking movement, or physical bump?

>>1685564
like out of nowhere the normally flat printing area got like a leaf looking thing that bumped up. and it got bigger until everything started melting. The printer made a noise during this process. Like it was struggling.

>>1685561
Cool I'll try reattaching it. I've had mine for a year and a half at this point and it just seems to get worse over time.

>>1685569
if your prints are good i wouldnt fuck with it. I just saw something that was crooked and assumed it was wrong

>>1685566
Ohhh, your print is curling. Try a different model that doesn't have significant overhangs. To fix the issue you can turn the extruder temp down a bit and turn the part fan speed up. Slowing the printing speed would likely help too.

>>1685570
Nah they prints have been fucked for as long as I've had the thing. Now I have a solid excuse to get off my ass and try and fix it.

Oh wow. So far at least, PolySmooth does not suck.

>>1685378
Nice discovery. Thats the normal process that has been applied since the dawn of heate beds.

just lost about every pad on my LDO how's your night going 3dpg

>>1685381
We've got 3 prusa MK3S's at work and are set to get 2 more at least, everybody loves them much more than the absolute shit they replaced (FlashForge Creators)

>>1685525
>What happened?
China happened, what do you think? They even recommend not upgrading the firmware in the leaflet I got with mine, so I'm half-expecting it to brick if you do so.

>>1685418
This is legit the first time I've ever seen someone say something positive about Anycubic in non-broken English that wasn't just an obvious shill.

What is some dead simple design that is easy to 3d print and snaps two box parts together?

Basically i want to print out cases for my electronics and i want some easy way to snap them together without glue, as i print them in two halves

>>1685710
dude, remove that burned flux immediately!
>>1685710
>how's your night going 3dpg
I'm fine, can't say the same for pic related.

So if you want the gooddest hottest (metaphorically, not literally) shit to turn them steppers, then at this time tmc5160 is your best choice corrent?
Plus the 5160 can handle bigger currents which is great since i want to later replace the shitty nema17 steppers with nema 23
they cost a lot but seem to give star trek tier performance

>>1685734
So here is what i don't get.
The manual says only marlin 2.0 and up spports them, but that confuses me, i thought that marlin only pulls a pin high and low to tell the driver when to step or when to turn off, and all the drivers have same pinout so marlin shouldn't even need to know which driver is connected
so what the shit? is it only if you need to use the uart and stuff? because i don¨t need that

>>1685737
You don't get any of the Star Trek level stuff unless you talk to it via UART. Actual stepping is via STEP/DIR, but setup is more complex. Sorry.

>>1685746
i don't need any fancy stuff i just need the big boy currents it can handle and a sensorless homing, that is it
i actually want to use the drivers with grbl so i would like to setup the driver in a way where if it passes a certain current limit it outputs a high state on a pin so i can directly wire it to the axis limit signal pin as a fake endstop

>>1685758
>i don't need any fancy stuff i just need the big boy currents it can handle and a sensorless homing, that is it
The big boy currents are due to the 5160 using external mosfets. If you want built-in that's the 5161.
You can't have sensorless homing in standalone setup. You need to talk to it to configure that. That's true of all the Trinamics with StallGuard.

>>1684945
it might be a screw on your board, look near the stepper motor wires, turn the screw

>>1685688
Except all the advice I've ever been given is "just click print you fucking ultra retard".

>>1685378
What the fug the printer automatically waits for the bed to heat up before it prints son

>>1685770
.... all of them?

>>1685771
Yes all marlins unless you fuck up gcode

>>1682592
>>1682599

So, I know some of my prints are easily strong enough for that in any layer orientation, but most aren't. And it doesn't seem very predictable. Using good pla it seems like some weeks it prints things really strong, then others it will decide it's printing weak things, and I can't predict it.

Any advice?

>>1685812
The tensioner on your extruder is drifting and you're getting inconsistent feed.
Or you are populating the bed more or less and getting differences in extrusion that way.

Some slicers will take your max print speed for outer and inner walls and max out the travel speed on populated layers, then slow down for less populated layers. Somewhat depending on how you set the minimum layer time.

If the extrusion in your prints seems to vary based on the total cross-sectional area of the print layers then you need to lower the maximum print speed in the slicer settings.

Or the filament you bought has an inconsistent diameter due to wider tolerances.

>>1685812
I always get strong layer adhesion with PETG.

>>1685722
thinking about going into desperation mode and exposing traces and soldering wires to female headers so I can atleast get display out while I wait for new board.

I tried to be crafty/ cheap and desoldered the stock display and was gonna put in female pins so I could attach male pins to the LCD, and vfd I have coming soon. My solder wick is a lot shitty than I remember, god removing thru hole pins is such a pain in the ass.

>>1685722

>>1685812
maybe you're just delusional?
between filaments i get differing layer strengths but not on the same roll between prints

>print abs with raft
>air gap is 0.3mm or over=print doesn't stick to the raft and print fails
>under 0.3mm=raft doesn't come off at all

What the hell should i do? If i print ABS without raft the print is terribly warped.

>>1685836
give up with ABS
or heated bed + enclosure
ABS is a pain to print otherwise

>>1685718

So i was looking at eBay listings and found this. Turns out that unlike the original Photon, the new "improved" Photon S is made out of flimsy plastic. I suppose this hints at the direction in which all upcoming SLA printer manufacturers are headed.

>>1685842
well i mean it makes sense, SLA machines need even less of a rigid structure than FDM machines

so im the noob from earlier >>1685552


I leveled my bed but now when i start my print the nozzle is too high. Im going into the settings while its printing to "babystep z" the nozzle to the right height. However it doesnt matter because by then the first layer is already ruined.

How do i set it so its permenantly at the right height when it starts printing for the ender 3?

If i just auto home after my failed print. its like hugely above the bed and shooting spaget everywhere. Seems its higher and higher every time so i think my fucking with it in the menu is accumulating.

>>1685860
move the z endstop switch

>>1685861
the what?

Here are some pics from a print from just now I’m this guy >>1685860


You can see the start of the print after I leveled is from the nozzle being too high. Then I babyzstep the nozzle to the right height and it works great for a small period. Then after awhile the print seems to start binding again. Like every layer gets smaller so I had to increase the height via baby step z and it works for a bit then it happens again later.

Seemed my best print was my second one before I leveled but it still failed near the top

>>1685868
Top view. You can see the layers where I changed z height

Here is the best print I did but it failed near the head. This was before I leveled the printer

>>1685868
How can you have leveled your bed but still have the nozzle too high above the bed? Leveling in my experience is telling the printer to home the nozzle on the z axis and then adjusting the corners so that a piece of paper can barely slide under. What are you doing to level?

>>1685860
After homing, level using the bed and the Z adjust in the menu, then click store home offsets and it will be fine.

>>1685877
hmm i might have done it wrong. I told the printer to move all the axis's around so i could get the paper to just barely have resistance. I also might not have saved anything

aslo do i disable steppers? whatever that means

>>1685884
You should be adjusting the screws below the bed to lift it up to the nozzle. The nozzles lowest position is dictated by the end stop switch, so it'll always go just low enough to Press it, and that will be the z axis home position every time. Tell your printer to home all axis and that z position will be where you want to adjust the bed to.

helmet 2 (on the left) is almost finished. all thats left is the visor

>>1685838
ABS is honestly obsolete. No reason to bother with it.

>>1685181
Do you have more bowden on hand to replace the liner? I've printed PETG with a lined hotend (@ 240), but I was doing so to print upgrades that allowed me to swap to an all metal hotend (I didn't have to care if the liner lasted longer than the project).

>>1685893
My Man

>>1685917
nice. what material did you use? i used PLA and kinda missed ABS and just molding parts together with acetone. had to resort to epoxy after one anon recommended it to me

>>1685919
im printing with petg since i hope to get some of the sanding done before applying the filler primer.
for gluing i am looking to get some basic plastic glue

>>1685920
alright, sounds reasonable. i recommend also getting some real filler for possible gaps as the sprayfiller really doesnt cut it for those things.

I can't get my printer to complete a long print. A couple of hours through the printer just stops, stays heated and Cura doesn't detect it. I'm fairly confident that the USB port's solder joints are fucked, because it happens reliably if I move the cable slightly. Tried different cables. Any advice? Should I look for a replacement board? I'm shit at electronics work so reflowing is kind of out of the picture.

>>1685923
i thought of getting bondo spot putty for the gap filling but since there is still a lot of printing to be done and i can only print friday thru sunday the printing will probably keep me busy for awhile

>>1685907
there are still some strengths it has over PLA
-cheaper per volume
-more heat resistant than PLA
-less brittle than PLA
>easier to post-process than PLA

>>1685924
what sort of power source do you have, a plug in laptop type PSU? if so, the connector might be shit, i used to have this problem where after some time the power started randomly cutting off and back on

>>1685920
>petg
>glue
About that... PETG is really tricky to glue. Generic glue might not do the job. It's the same thing with colour, normal paints just don't stick to it.

My z set right? Should it say zero?

>>1685933
what is your z-probe offset set to

>>1685930
Yeah it's the laptop type, but the fact that the hotend and bed stay heated should rule out power issues. If power went, it should come back online with no heating going on, no?

>>1685928
>-more heat resistant than PLA
nothing printable is more heat resistant than annealed PLA. Not even Ultemp.
>-less brittle than PLA
See above.
As for cost... where are you getting ABS cheaper than PLA?

>>1685935
I believe it’s zero but idk. You can’t move the switch

>>1685940
no in the settings

>>1685936
yeah i suppose that is so
you can still test it out, power up your machine, put the bed and hotend on so that a lot of current flows and then wiggle the plug and listen for any sparks or anything odd

>>1685937
>annealed PLA
yeah sure but annealed PLA is not dimensionally accurate so usage cases are a bit limited
The materials are usually similarly priced per kg and since ABS is less dense you get more volume

i want to build a 3d printer, what type do you recommend building(delta, cartesian, etc), any tips?

>>1685953
lovecraftian

>>1685953
cartesian
fuck delta

>>1685953
?

>>1685953
I built this one but bigger with a wood frame
>https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction/tr
You can even get the printed parts for $20 on ebay
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reprap-Prusa-i3-Rework-Printed-Parts-Kit-HIGH-QUALITY-PLA-3D-Printer/132199308676?hash=item1ec7b15d84:g:gJIAAOSwAPVZISzK

>>1685953
Noneuclidian.

>>1685949
>yeah sure but annealed PLA is not dimensionally accurate so usage cases are a bit limited
fair, though you can do a pretty good job. Most of the dimensional problems are due to turbo-spurds wanting it to anneal in 15 minutes. Do it slow and the shrink is predictable with no warping.

>>1685982
wat

Retard noob here

>>1685868
>>1685870
>>1685552


Guess what the problem was?

The fucking Z motor screw shaft was loose. Around 3-5 layers in the motor would just fucking spin lmfao.

Almost thought i bought a lemon. 24% into the dog print now. A bit worried about a rumbling noise i hear. But I got it pretty level due to this guys tutorial

https://www.thingiverseDOTCUM/thing:3235018

>>1686088
>Almost thought i bought a lemon.
You did, you just managed to fix the first thing.

>>1686093
whats wrong with the ender?

>>1686094
Any number of random things you'll find slowly over time.

>>1686072
Lovecraftian

I may have butchered that LDO, but I managed to remove the pins off the noritake replacement with grace.

pencil lead works AMAZING for pushing leftover solder thru holes.

>>1686094
Don't listen to this faggot
>>1686112
The Ender is a good printer, and with a few minor upgrades it can be a great printer. After I got mine tweaked just right, I don't have to mess with it at all. Just hit print and it does it's thing.

>>1686093
You do know that the Ender has to be assembled, right?

>>1686116
those are nifty screens. Hit me up if you want a nice color filter for the front. I have spare Noritake ones made for it, but decided to make my own Prusa orange filter for mine.

>>1686121
[I have extras of every color, also orange]

>>1685842
I'm happy with the original Photon I got, no problems so far. I might recommend grabbing one of the older models before they stop selling them.

>>1685937
>Annealed PLA is more heat resistant than Ultem
If that were true, more engineering companies would be using PLA. This sounds like nonsense. Source?

>>1686128
> If that were true, more engineering companies would be using PLA.
Have you not noticed that they've started to?
> This sounds like nonsense. Source?
You've not been paying attention. Go Google.

>>1686134
>Go Google
Burden of proof is literally on you. I'm not wasting my time making your argument for you if I can't find it on the first page of results. If what you're saying was true, it would be on a lot of 3D printing websites, and so far I'm not seeing it.

>>1686139
that's fine. your loss not mine.

>>1686144
>my loss
Not really. I'll just sit here confident that Ultem, PEKK, PEEK and the like can take higher temperatures than PLA could. There's no reason for me to consider using PLA in the conditions I use the above for.

>>1686150
...and companies are now making PLA filament optimized not to shrink when annealed. Same guy made an induction mocha pot out of it.

>>1686156
Great, I'm happy we could reach a compromise where you provided where you got that info from. I do have to wonder why this isn't more popular knowledge and why people aren't taking more advantage of it; that video's 2 years old, and 160C deformation temperature is pretty significant. There has to be some tradeoff, other than the time taken to anneal.

>>1686162
Since then I've just been doing my own thing with it, so I don't have anything to point to. But annealing works as well as he claims.

>>1686167
Downside is probably mostly that no one sells a fire-and-forget device (yet) that does foolproof annealing. I mean, just look at the anon earlier trying to dry out his spool in an oven.
Too many 3diyers can burn down their house boiling water.

>>1686167
Sounds pretty useful, then, since PLA is a lot easier to print than most high-temp materials. I'll have to give it a go, thanks for letting me know.

Why do we use aluminium beds instead of brass? Brass conducts heat much better, so theoretically a brass bed wouldn't have the problem with "hot and cold patches" that aluminium beds have.

>>1686228
Brass does not conduct heat better than aluminum. You're thinking of copper. As to why, not use copper, current spot price for copper is $2.60/lb and aluminum is 80 cents/lb.
Copper also expands/contracts/flexes more and weighs much more.

>>1686162
Annealing leads to changing dimensions
for a given operation i'm sure these stay the same so you could perfect the production method for a given part so that it is dimensionally accurate but for one off parts it would be quite difficult to account for the dimensions changing

>>1686228
aluminum is cheap, has a high strength/weight ratio, and also conducts heat extremely well

>>1686156
Thats pretty cool and super interesting.
Always nice to see when youtubers don't talk complete garbage.

Calculating the shrinkage and considering it in the model should help a lot. It's done in injection moulding too.
(one of our suppliers calculated the shrinkage for the wrong material once and hat to scrap the whole mould, lel. They hardened the full tool half instead of using hardened inserts)

If you were really serious you could use custom cooling fixtures which force the warpage in a direction during cool down.

>>1686156
>>1686265
noob here

why are you guys talking about annealing PLA?

is this something you do after printing or something that takes place during extrusion?

>>1686372
google it

not sure where to post this so i'll post here
any idea how to model this slot here? the three pegs are an imaginary tool head travel path and the big barrel is the work piece
using fusion 360
and to keep it on topic, i'm prolly gonna 3d print a prototype of the thing when it's getting kinda ready

>>1686265
>>1686278
There are now engineering PLAs designed for annealing that don't shrink (like only .1-.4%)

>>1686443
Not sure about fusion 360, but in FreeCAD you can sweep a solid along a path, create a solid from the sweep, then subtract it.

>>1686372
>is this something you do after printing or something that takes place during extrusion?
after printing.
Annealing is a process of slow heating and cooling. It causes metal to get soften, but causes some plastics (like PLA) to crystallize and harden dramatically. Also makes it much more heat resistant.

>>1686443
How exactly do you want the insides of the cut to look? Fusion unfortunately doesnt support sweeping solids, which is what you want, but you can work around it if you need. You can sketch the diagonal slot on an offset plane, then either use split body or project the sketch onto the surface. Then you just press pull the new profile on the cylinder and you'll have a decent looking cut.

>>1686495
oh well, i couldn't get the dimensions right with the project sketch thingy so i just made the slot in a single plane, a kinda sketchy solution but hey at least machining this shape is easier

>>1686443
You can make cuts exactly like that in Tinkercad. Assuming you already know the angles/depths it would only take 10-20 minutes, including time for you to get used to tinker. It's surprisingly based in some ways.

>>1686560
i sure don't remember a feature like that from back when i used to use tinkercad

>fell for the leddit "don't use zhop" meme
>prints are shit
>turn it on
>prints look great

>>1686676
>don't use zhop
...Why the fuck would anyone say not to use it? The only reasons I can think of is ironing or shaking

>>1686739
What would be the reason to use it?
I never did, except for some fragile prints.
Zhop takes more time to print and potentially leaves an ooze where it lifts.

>>1686776
See >>1686676

>>1683509
Throw that in the trash and get a piece of glass cut. Much better print surface

I'm 3D printing an RC plane. This is the EDF (electric ducted fan) unit I've designed, there'll be two of them. My plan right now is to make the casing and a few varieties of the fan assembly (different propeller pitch, different number of blades and so on) to test which one gives the best thrust with my little 2830 motors.
The plane will have two of these fan assemblies side by side in its belly, so there'll be no risk of me getting a broken fan blade in my eye or anything, but if there's any problem that stands out to you guys, please let me know

>>1687044
do those blades even have any profile?
anyway, just buy the blades themselves lol, many other parts can be printed but printing such parts as the propellers/turbines just makes no sense

>>1687048
>do those blades even have any profile?
They do! They're very steep in the centre, and a bit shallower at the edge.
>anyway, just buy the blades themselves lol, many other parts can be printed but printing such parts as the propellers/turbines just makes no sense
But that's entirely too sensible. Where's your spirit of DIY?

>>1687050
i suppose it doesn't really matter in this scale but turbines have an airfoil cross section just like wings and propellers
and honestly i don't really like DIY just for the sake of it, rather just where it makes sense

>>1687050
>But that's entirely too sensible. Where's your spirit of DIY?
I don't see you winding your own motors, buddy.

>>1687053
I know, but even if I go out and buy EDFs they're going to have flat blades. Only the fancy, bigger ones have an actual wing cross section.
Mine have the little bend in the middle and I think I'm actually really close with the pitch of the blades to what the store bought versions have, so I think they should still work well enough.
Besides, when I print this the blades are going to be just three lines wide. I don't think I actually can have a proper wing cross section without having it be really yanky.

>>1687044
>designed

So you used CFD for swirling flow? Blockage/loss modeling? Thrust/power prediction? Are there even arefoils?

No, you didn't actually design anything? Then why waste your time when you can download an actually designed ducted fan.

>>1687075
Because the people putting the "actually designed ducted fans" on thingiverse are 90% doing the exact same thing I'm doing here, and this actually fits the spare pair of motors I have laying around anyway.
And you seem to be confusing words. "Design" actually fits what I did here. What you're thinking of is "engineered". I did none of that, obviously.

>>1687078
Mcmaster-carr bud

>>1687080
Wrong kind of fans. I'm not trying to cool a factory, I'm trying to make a plane-shaped bit of plastic fly moderately fast. Something like https://www.mcmaster.com/2029k2 could maybe work, but they don't have models of these fan blades anyway, and besides I'm fairly sure I'm better off copying the design of actual RC EDFs than cobbling together some kind of weird hybrid ventilation fan propulsion unit.

Any tips for printing PETG on an ender 3 pro?

>>1687292
Get a glass bed, put some hairspray on it, set temps on the high end of what manufacturer recommends, 0 fan at layer 1, ramps it up to 100% in a 4-5 layers, wait untill it cools before you take the print off.

>>1687292
>>1687396
PEI sheet works well on everything. Glass would get wrecked if you print PETG on it directly.

What printer would you guys recommend for a budget of just under 2½k? Doesn't have to be a huge one, it just has to work properly. Support for multiple materials would be nice.

>>1687429
I heartily recommend READING THE FUCKING OP
>it just has to work properly
Unironically: Ultimaker 2.

>>1687424
>Glass would get wrecked if you print PETG on it directly.
Hence the hairspray.

>>1687433
Yeah, read the OP already. I just have no Idea if I should choose Ultimaker 3, 5, lulzbot mini or Lulzbot Taz6.
Didn't even know Ultimaker 2 was a thing so now I know that too. Thanks a bunch, dude.

>>1687438
Personally, if I had a 2.5K budget I'd buy a Mini or maybe even a pre-assembled Prusa. Spending 2.5K on a TAZ6 or UM2 is worth it, but leaves you with no room for filament and upgrades should you find yourself wanting them.

What are you going to be using it for?

>>1687443
Personally going to use it for prototyping. Around 20 people are going to use it too for different things. Might even slap 0.5k more to the budget if need be, but that isn't too desirable.

>>1687445
>20 idiots without formal training using your printer
Disregard my previous personal opinion, get a UM2. Regular 3D-printers fail even with experienced users (hence this thread), but the 10 UM2's at my local university haven't failed in 5 years of abuse by students and thousands of print hours. One is about to shit the bed though, gonna need a heater replacement or maybe a new motherboard.

>>1687292
Same settings as PLA except higher temperature (read on your spool, varies a lot for PETG) and maybe 1mm higher retraction.

I got a full metal hotend for this though, wouldn't feel safe doing long prints at 240ºC with the stock hotend

>>1687446
Sounds pretty damn promising.

New Thread >>1687459

>>1685221

>Proprietary filament boxes that won't print with plenty left
what is this a fucking inkjet

>>1687438
>lulzbot mini or Lulzbot Taz6
One of those.
All of my Lulzbot Mini V1.04s have 8,000+ hours on them without any serious issues.

>>1687424
>PEI sheet works well on everything
almost everything. PEEK/PEKK/PEI and related materials wreck them.