/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1653161
Kerf

>>1653161
Kerf

>>1653165
>>1653166
Thanks

>>1653161
Kerf

>>1653161
Kert

Curb
Kerm
Kermit
Kermit the frog
That's it
Kermit the frog

>>1653161
Building a welding bench from scratch. Need to keep the metal work surface conductive, while preventing rust. Is cold blackening the way to go?

>>1653161
thats a big chainsaw

>>1653296
baka. Aluminum.

>>1653296
scotchbrite...
if you actually use the damn thing you don't have to worry too much about rust.

>>1653306
>if you actually use the damn thing you don't have to worry too much about rust
I've cleaned pieces of steel for welding and come back to the shop the next morning to find surface corrosion starting to form. The heat from welding will also presumably speed the spread of surface rust.

I need to replace all the door casing trim in my house, probably 22 doors total worth. Should I buy a chop saw to do the 45 degree cuts, or should I use my hand-held circular saw to do a straight cut and use rosettes?

>>1653309
Circular if you're going solo and don't have a time limit or cash for a decent one. Chop for everything else.

>>1653308
It ain't the heat it's the slight galvanic difference between the parent and filler metal

>>1653309
Holy fuck.

None of them are going to be a perfect angle. Personally I prefer rosettes. But you need a miter saw either way. 100 bucks max

>>1653319
Yeah, no time limit, doing it all alone and I've got very limited wood working experience. Figured I'd go with rosettes and straight cut with a circular saw so I just have to do straight cuts only.

I'm a brainlet with electronics. In the top left transistor, given that the emitter must recieve electrons first, why is it connected to the cathode end of the battery? Isn't this backwards? in this schematic, wouldn't the collector be recieving the electron flow first?

>>1653355
Conventional current is opposite of actual electron flow. Does that answer your question?

>>1653360
sort of. the electrons have to reach the emitter first in this circuit, and the cathode end of the battery is the part that recieves electrons from the rest of the circuit, no? so connecting the cathode to the emitter pin seems like the opposite of what you would do

>>1653325
Straight cuts or 45 may be rare, old doors are often off abit, sometimes it is close enough, sometimes you just have to copy the angle off the frame/door to keep things looking right.

>>1653361
I'm too beer'd up to answer your question in detail but just remember that every time you come up against a textbook and think the textbook is the opposite of what it should be, it's more likely that your understanding is wrong.
I've designed plenty of circuits and never had to worry about which side gets electrons first or whatever. It just doesn't come up unless you are studying the manufacture and particle-level operation of semiconductor devices.

>>1653372
how did you learn to build circuits?

I guess what I'm asking is in pic related, the electron flow is in the direction of the red arrows, so why is the resistor after the bulb?

>>1653296
That's a possibility, but if the surface is mild steel, cosmetic rust isn't generally a big deal. Just wipe a bit of oil on from time to time. That said, if you want something rust-free, there are other options. I mostly work with stainless steel, and my main welding table top is 1/4" 304 stainless. If you're not getting carbon steel spatter on it, something like that will not rust if you're not near a body of salt water. It's expensive unless you can get it as scrap, though. For small TIG benchwork, I use a 12" square piece of 1/8" copper. Copper is expensive even as scrap, but it has the additional benefits of being non-marring and non-wetting to steel, which are useful in some situations. Though you can't tack steel to it.

So there is a saying here, it loosely translates as follows: "If you have got an axe in your house you will have no need for a carpenter."

The reason I bring that up is that I got some wood lying around from a tree I chopped down and I have barely any other tools. Now I want to build a compost and that made me think if there are some guides how to use your axe not only to kill trees but to use it as a tool to build something.
Is there something like that?

>>1653361
"cat-" generally means positive, while "an-" means negative. This works fine in chemistry, where cations are positive and anions are negative.

For whatever reason, god only knows why, the "-odes" in electronics are backwards. The cathode (which recieves positives) is negative, and the anode (which recieves negatives) is positive.
Basically, you're working with a double-negative here, where reality is sandwiched between two fucktarded conventions.

>>1653438
There probably are some books on it, but any timber framing book will have some axe work in it. Your standard felling and splitting axes are somewhat terrible for carpentry work, but it can be done. You can use wedges to split out timbers and the axe to split out boards, clean them up abit with the axe, a proper side axe and a froe work much better though. If you have no wedges you can use hardwood, just hack and opening for the hardwood wedge, do another a foot down the log and so on, once the wedges are set, start at one end, give a wedge a wack and move on down the log, give each a wack, then back to the start, repeat until it splits. Hardwood wedges need to be at least as hard as the wood you are trying to split, ideally harder, but you can make do if you must by opening up the gaps for the wedges deeper so they do not need to be driven into the log, just have to break it apart. Once you have it split into smaller quarters or so you can use the axe to split out boards, pretty much just like splitting firewood, drive the axe into the end and then use a hunk of wood as a mallet, smack the handle right by the head to drive the head further into the timber, continue until you are far enough along that you can just force the split to the end. It is tough on the axe handle though and you can not split out boards much wide than the bit of the axe.

so I bought a broken ps3, I thought I could repair it but it didn't work. it gives me the same fucking error in loop so I had to take it apart like 10 times and I broke some ribbon cables. what can I do with this piece of trash? probably I can reuse the power supply, what about the blueray? can I use it in a pc or I should build something like a laser engraver. the last option is throwing everything away

>>1653439
wait what

>>1653366
What do you mean? All my doors have that 45 degree cut where the 2 pieces meet at the corner.

>>1653298
looks like a Trencher to me

>>1653451
Everything you could salvage is less than $20 new and with plug&play

Toss it. Your problem was the hard drive all along and you missed it

>>1653481
There’s more than one way to skin a cat

>>1653460
Anodes and cathodes are named so because their respectively charged particles:
Cations (positive charge) for cathodes and anions (negative charge) for anodes.
Using simple electric logic, a cathode has to be negative to attract positively charged particles (otherwise repulsion occurs) and anodes must be positive to attract negatively charged particles.

Attempting to restore a nice older (cast iron) bandsaw. Unknown brand (no markings other than a serial number, I suspect it's a Delta).
How do I find the blade length without an old blade to measure or markings to guide me?

>>1653497
Can you just measure the thing and do simple maths? It’s two pulleys soo, if they’re different sizes, 1/2x circ. of Pully 1 + 1/2x circ. of pulley 2 + the distance between the pulleys on either side.

Or even easier, run a piece of string along the path of the blade and then straighten it out and measure that.

>>1653498
Good advice. Thank you.
I remember my dad saying it was something weird like 26 or 29 inch. He got it from his dad and presumably had never changed the blade

What kind of grill design/implementation do you think would work best for a portable, flat pack firepit/BBQ?
1) laser cut steel "handles" and steel wire welded togheter
2) one piece laser cut steel grill
3) steel wire only construction

thanks frens

I need to convert a metal shed similar to pic into a fruiting area for mushrooms. This means I will need to find cheap insulation and heating methods, cheap cooling methods, cheap humidity control methods (basically 100% humidity all the time). Compounding on these problems is the fact that I also need to be pulling in oxygen from outside nearly constantly, and that air will be very cold in the winter, and too hot in the summer..

Any tips? I'm going to take it one step at a time. I have a few ideas I'm going to play with, like having high margin plants (microgreens, specifically) in the grow area to provide more fresh air and keep up ambient humidity.

Below I break down the problems listed above into my current solution ideas (in order of easiest to hardest).

>insulation
the easiest part, I think. Probably just styrofoam sheets, glued directly onto the metal panels or screwed into the frame.

>heat
I will probably get a gas powered heater, cuz it's probably cheaper than running electric. I'm not sure if this would work well in an area like this, I don't want the fumes to offset the shrooms or kill me.

>cooling
I will probably just scout out for a free AC during the winter, to use the following summer. I hope to find something cheaper than this though, but if I insulate the place very well hopefully it won't be a huge problem? There are no windows on the building.

>humidity control
They make those cheap hoses for patios and stuff, that mist during a given interval. I'll probably just run those wild all over the place.

>fresh air
This is the hardest part. The mushrooms like two stable temps for diff stages - 60F and 70F. My area gets anywhere 15F to 95F annually. Maybe I could make a small 5x5 framed in wall next to the air intake fan, and place a gas heater in the room, then another fan framed into the wall? So it'd intake air, heat it up, then distribute it?

I've seen multiple different size bat boxes. Does anyone know of which type(s) I should make for bats native to the Lower Great Lakes or at least a good resource? Either my Googlefu is shit or there isn't something comprehensive.

>>1653296
bolt a sacrificial anode or two on it, you can get them from most boat shops. Probably from most bigger hardware shops too...

>>1653671
Just research the types of bats you have locally, decide which type you want to attract and then search for bat box design for that species. Size is not all that important, they will crowd into most anything, mainly the opening needs to be small enough to keep squirrels from getting in and be orientated so birds can not get it. Size mainly affects how many bats can geti in, the opening can be sized to target species to a point.

Do box springs generally have sufficient internal structure that i could just attach legs to make a bed?
I’m considering adding quarter-circle shaped wood to one side of the legs, so that i could flip the bed on its side and into the closet. Maybe even drill a dry erase board on the underside. I’m renting so i can’t put in a traditional wall bed.

>>1653709
How fat are you? Are you getting any pussy in said bed? How furiously do you masturbate? What are you using for the legs?

i have a shit load of ipad lithium ion cells

i want to charge one individual cell and use it for some solar charging stuff. For now I just want to charge it with a 5v input. On aliexpress they have charging circuits, could I just connect the charger to the cell and charge the fuckin thing?

Reinstalling a toilet today.
Do I need to sit on it to get a good seal before tightening down the bolts?

>>1653800
bro, you tighten the bolts in the back, make sure they are snug or the toilet will will out

leak out*

>>1653763
I’m 6’2 and 200-210. Sure i plan on getting some pussy but i’m not in a relationship to promise immediate sex. Masturbate so hard it damages the bed? Probably not?

I’m not really sure what to use for the legs desu, I’ve never really diy’ed before. I was planning on getting some leg supports and attaching whatever wide stumps (maybe 3x3 or 4x4 with a length of at least 3 inches) i can find at the store.

Maybe a dumb question.

Wife's asked for a project for her classroom this fall -- doesn't have to be before school as they start back next week! but I'd like to at least get things together

She wants a magnetic board. Frame is optional, but she plans on decorating it with stickers, magnets and paper of her student's work. Dimensions are ~3' x 5'

Can I just run to the hardware store and get something like this??

get whiteboard paint and just hang stuff with tape

>>1653298
UUUU

I want to make a pulsating heatpipe.

It's basically two heat exchangers half-filled with water and the rest is a partial vacuum to decrease the boiling temperature of water. What kind of components do I need in order to plug in a vacuum pump?

>>1654013
>magnetic board
Like the ones sold in office supply stores?

>>1653675
Its just zink ingots. Buy some off amazon and bolt on for cheaper

I'm about to close on a house in a few days and I need to figure out a few repair options. The storm door comes in contact with the vinyl ceiling. Would it be best to pop a few panels off and raise the beams few inches or what would be best?

How hard is it fuck up concrete

Can I make concrete using just sand as aggregate?

it's not structural, I just need to make some weights to hold down a tent
Tent man wants to charge me $50 bucks a pop for 25lb iron weights and I need 4 of them
"Get out of town", I said

>>1654175
>Can I make concrete using just sand as aggregate?
That's basically mortar. If you're putting the mix in 5-gal buckets, it's fine. You can even go super-lean. If you want them to be bare, they's break all to shit.

>>1654175
Depends size of tent really

I calibrate pumps, and I accidentally'd a calibration vessel made mostly of carbon fiber but with aluminium fittings by dropping it on concrete and putting a dent in the aluminium beside where it is connected to a hose for emptying it.
It is due for inspection in 2-3 weeks and I'm wondering is there any way to smooth out dents in aluminium without being too fancy or totally fucking it completely?

Hello, recently I inherit this "workshop". At beginning it was just junkyard because previous owner was "collector". Took me whole day to recycle all that garbage.
Also I have problem with moisture. Wall is wet and plaster falls off.
How to get rid of moisture?

>>1654316
Find water /leak source resolve

>>1654319
There is well outside. Could it be it?

>>1654330
A water well outside the workshop? No. I don't think that's causing the moisture in the room. Ground water is deep. Even if it is an open top well. Do you live in a very humid climate? Is the room temperature controlled and insulated? Does the room have A/C?

>>1654316

Is the roof leaking?

>>1654330
NO if no external water forces its a humidity /temp cause , Use a Hired Dehumidifier . if still damp its a Ventilation issue , its a slow process

I forgot to mention that only one wall is wet like all the time. Other walls have cracks on plaster.

>>1654337
>Do you live in a very humid climate?
Not really.

>>1654341
Could be.

That rule about leaving a refrigerator upright for 24 hours after being transported on it's side applies to mini fridges too right? If it was on it's side for 30 minutes and I plugged it in for a second did I fuck it up?

>>1654316
Is it below ground / water table? If it is you;re looking at tanking, or...paint the entire inside with bitchumen :D

>>1654349

Maybe you should check out the roof and see if its very damp in one spot or different places, you might be able to put a plastic sheet somewhere to block it and let the place dry out before fixing whatever it is.
If its a decades old steel roof it most likely is not in perfect condition.

>>1654358

Most likely did no harm if you only plugged it in for a second and then left it alone

>>1654362

And if its like a flat bitumen roof those pretty much crash and burn with no survivors after 10 years and need to be replaced

>>1654360
ok
>>1654362
Ceiling is made from concrete plates filled with metal rods and roof is made by wooden beams and roof tiles.

>>1654360
I was lead to believe was ground level , I would of said Tanking too , an a breathable membrane pipe to an outside drain

Hate faggot OPs who give half a story

>>1653237
I'm pretty sure it's GERM

Recently bought a Record No. 24 vice. Where can I get 5.25" jaws for it in the UK, or will I have to make my own? (existing jaws aren't bad, but for future reference)

>>1654411
those Dubs an this dreadful CRINGE shit posting here ,
Just stop it
theres a million old vices out there KYS

>>1654416
There's a reason I asked in QTDDTOT. Who hurt you, friend?

>>1653298
For you

This is a hinge from a Thinkpad T430. There I an issue with these hinges and the ones from the previous model (T420) where over time they become loose and require replacement. I want to take this hinge apart to see if I can modify it to be stiffer somehow, but I can't figure out how to do it. It appears to be held together by that squiggly piece, but I can't get it out. I tried using a pick to get it out, but I had no luck. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could do it? I don't want to get the Dremel with cutting wheel just yet. (I hope the picture is okay, my phone is kinda bad at taking pics and showing the actual quality).

This is a hinge from a Thinkpad T430. There is an issue with these hinges and the ones from the previous model (the thinkpad T420) where over time they become loose and require replacement, and according to the internet, there is no other fix. I want to take this hinge apart to see if I can modify it to be stiffer somehow, but I can't figure out how to do it. It appears to be held together by that squiggly piece (circled), but I can't get it out. I tried using a pick to get it out, but I had no luck. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could do it? I don't want to get the Dremel with cutting wheel out just yet.

How to cut glass?

>>1654666
There's this tool where you score a line in the glass and then you break it along that line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIWfvgDJ3JE

>>1654316
air circulation can help evaporate moisture and if properly ventilated transfer moisture to outside

I am going to sand down and stain a table. Is there anything I'm missing aside from more polyurethane? any safety considerations I should take into account before I begin? sandpaper going up to 220 grit should be enough or should I go get more up to 400 grit?

>have
belt sander, 120 grit belt
detail sander, 180 grit pad
loose sandpaper, 220 grit
small can of wood stain
rattlecan of poly
1 inch brush
3' by 5' wood table

small engine question.

I have this mower, it's from the 1960's, that I got off a trash pile. Cleaned rebuilt the carb, new spark, new muffler.

I've been using it for 2 years now because it's awesome and never bogs down, plus the geometry of the deck and blade makes it great in tall grass.

It starts GREAT when cold.

But it burns oil like mad when it gets hot, small puffs of blue smoke out the muffler as I go along.
If I shut it off, the engine will not restart while it's hot.
Sometimes it'll get too hot and just stops.
Fuel and spark are fine.

I don't really have any way to test compression, but could this be a compression issue when the engine is all hot and expanded compression too low to keep running or restart?
Can I solve this by new piston rings?

TIA

>>1655179
Yeah you could fix this with new piston rings.
Though you might want to inspect the cylinder for excessive wear.
Another thing you might want to consider is just throwing a new engine on it. You can get mowers that are falling apart with good engines for pretty cheap and motor bolt patterns are pretty standard (though I dont know if they were in the 60s)

>>1655179
>>1655223
also you could try engine restore to see if it will save you some work.

>>1653161
At what diameter does a wire become a rod?

Asking fir a fren.

>>1655352
Solid or stranded? How much can you bench?

>>1655352
Wires are usually specified by gauge, rods by dimension. There's plenty of overlap, e.g. 0 gauge "wire" vs. 1/16" filler "rod" as often encountered in welding. Also depends on storage/handling. "Rods" are relatively short for their width, and so are stiff enough to handle in stacks/whatever, while "wire" is floppy enough to wind on rolls and feed through curving paths. The wires used to spin suspension bridge cables can be pretty big, while rods used in small mechanical devices like watches can be pretty small. There isn't a clean dividing line.

I wanna cheap/secondhand cordless drill to screw and unscrew shit (Phillips-heads, slotted, hex, nuts) like a boss. Can I just get the cordless drill and get a separate cheap set of bits from one of those sets that come with a handheld grip? Or any other advice please.

>>1655179

cloudy with a chance of valve seals

>>1655402
Wut? Of course you can get the drill and a set of bits.

The 12V sets from better brands are real nice for shit around the house. You can get the Milwaukee 12V set for so cheap these days, I would recommend getting that over an 18V drill from a shitty brand. You can get the M12 Drill + Impact Driver + 2 batteries for $99, spend another $50 and get the Hackzall for cutting shit too. But then again, there are some good 18V Li-Ion tools for affordable prices from brands like Ryobi, Porter Cable, even the better Black & Decker (the cheapest one is cheap for a reason). I got the GF’s dad a Ryobi saw and a few big batteries so he can start upgrading his cordless tool collection with that brand instead of the Walmart drill he has.

Then you can get a bit set like pic related with all your + and - and * driver bits, plus a few drill bits and even a socket adapter if you want to speed up work with nuts and bolts.

>>1655410
I understand your bewilderment as I have too little experience with this stuff. Thanks for the info and advice.

I was worried I should get a drill with a minimum diameter bit grip but I guess I can get a socket adapter if I need to go larger.

>>1655414
Nah drills will typically have the adjustable chuck. Smaller and/or cheaper drills often go up to 3/8” max, and regular 18V cordless drills are normally 1/2” chuck. Driver bits are 1/4” diameter so they will fit in the chucks of both no problem. A cheaper drill won’t be able to fit bigger drill bits, but they probably don’t have the power to run a 1/2” bit anyway.

Pic related for some perspective. The bigger drill is an 18V with a 1/2” max chuck so it will take large bits if you really need to make good size holes (they make bits >1/2” with a shank that fits in 1/2” chucks fine if needed). Smaller drill has the 3/8” max chuck. The 1-1/4” bit is a spade bit for soft materials like wood or plastic, that has a 1/4” chuck so will still fit fine in the smaller drill. But the gold bit next to it is 3/8”, the largest that will go in the smaller 12V drill. The silver bit is 15/32” and will only fit in the large one. The big oxidized bit is 3/4” bur it has a 1/2” shank so it will fir in the larger drill fine. The driver bits on the right in the yellow box are all standard 1/4” shank and will fit in both drills just fine.

All the cordless drills will have adjustable chucks that hold the bits*

>*: I’m sure there is one exception but for the sake of simplicity let’s ignore that

>>1655414
>>1655420
They both have the same 3-jaw keyless chuck design that is common on cordless drills.

A drill with a 1/2” chuck will fit pretty much anything designed to be used in a drill. A drill with a 3/8” chuck will fit most stuff meant to drill holes in wood and soft materials (since spade bits like posted above plus hole saws should fit, driver bits and those socket adapters are all 1/4” and fit fine too), but it will probably be limited to 3/8” max holes in metal and other hard materials that require a typical twist bit.

If you anticipate drilling into concrete or brick (even small holes) you probably want to look for one with a “hammer drill” function, but that’s another story.

>>1655420
>>1655423
sweet, thanks for the rundown. Now I'm equipped with the knowledge to look a good deal on this stuff.

>>1655402
>>1655423
I think some more basic information is in order. A drill works for driving screws, but if all you want to do is drive screws (as opposed to drilling holes), then the tool to get is an impact driver. These typically have a 1/4" hex socket to accommodate standard driver bits. Some drill bits are made to fit them, and you can get away with them in wood and some other soft materials, but drilling goes better in an actual drill. If you're going cordless (which makes most hand drilling and driving tasks a lot more convenient), then you might consider a combo cordless drill/driver kit, available from most manufacturers with a charger and a couple batteries. Often at a good discount since they're typically the first cordless tools people get, and if you buy into a brand, you're likely to buy more later.

>>1655424
If you think you might be drilling into concrete or brick, the hammer drill function is something to look for. It will cost a bit more, but a regular drill is almost useless in concrete, it just spins and spins and never makes much of a hole.

Pic related shows the switch on the 18V hammer drill. It still functions like a normal drill/driver, but you can switch it to the hammer function and that adds a tapping force in addition to the regular rotating drill bit. Pair this function with masonry bits (pic related) and you will be able to make holes in concrete.

An SDS hammer is the best tool for concrete drilling, but that’s heavy duty and a whole different level. The hammer drill function is a nice addition for me because my house has exterior concrete walls and it gets the job done when I need to drill a couple holes to hang a planter or some shit.

>>1655424
>>1655426
I was going to add the impact driver next because that might be what anon was thinking of with one set size.

Top tools is the drill-driver with the adjustable chuck up to 3/8” diameter. Bottom is the impact driver that only accepts 1/4” hex shank bits. The drill will still drive screws and bolts just fine, but the impact driver is a more specialized tool for that and it’s much more pleasant to use for driving screws since it won’t twist your wrist when putting power into it.

They make drill bits with a 1/4” hex shank like pic related and those will fit in the impact driver, but it is strange to use. They sell the drill-driver plus impact driver kits so you can drill the pilot hole with the drill, then drive the screw with the impact driver.

>>1655424
Btw... anon, what country are you in? US? Also what is your budget? And do you think you may want to expand your cordless tool collection in the future with saws and such?

>>1653161
I dunno if this deserves its own thread, so here we go. I've got some Idaho russets growin' out front and I'm might excited to get 'em harvested before it gets too cold. Now, I know I can make all but a nuclear reactor out of potatoes but it's how that's stumping me.

One thing I want to know how to make is sugar from potato starch. Preferably, I want to be able to do it without going to the store or buying chemicals. If there's anything I could grow that could help it, I'd be happy doing that.

Anyone know how to convert potato starch to sugar?

>>1655438
>Anyone know how to convert potato starch to sugar?
The easiest way is to stick a slice in your mouth. Saliva contains enzymes that convert starch to sugar. That doesn't scale very well though.Syrup is made from vegetable starch by processing with enzymes under controlled conditions, though in the past, it was done by pressure cooking with hydrochloric acid. Not exactly practical to DIY with bulk sugar as cheap as it is. Why do you want to DIY sugar production?

>>1655442
Try and cut costs as much as I can. Figure if I can do it from home, that's one more thing cut from the budget.

>>1655451
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Pure-Granulated-Sugar-25-Lb/10403009
Is your time worth anything at all, anon? Even if it isn't, you'd be hard pressed to beat mass-produced basic commodity prices. DIY is generally for tasks that would otherwise require custom work or professional labor. Do you DIY toilet paper? Without sugarcane or other sugar-bearing crops, that would be a more practical option for saving money.

>>1655431
Oz but I'm aware of a few reliable brands here including Makita Ryobi. I haven't explored the price range much but it's looking like I'm gonna set a search alert for something under AU$80.
I dunno what else I'd get as I'm merely looking for something to help with bike, PC, and electronics maintenance, and the occasional drilling of holes.

>>1655428
>>1655430
>>1655426
Cool to know. Glad to realize that impact-driving and hammer-drilling aren't the same thing.
So do impact-drivers need bits with specific sockets to work fully? And am I mistaken, or are impact-drivers more for un/screwing anchor screws, and drills more suited for bolting screws? (I just learned the terms anchoring and bolting now so apologies if I screwed that up and made things confusing)

>>1655466
>So do impact-drivers need bits with specific sockets to work fully?
A "socket" in this context is a driver for something with an external hex drive (or square, spline, etc.). Impact drivers have a built-in 1/4" hex socket instead of a chuck, which fits the 1/4" hex end on standard driver bits. All such bits should work.

>And am I mistaken, or are impact-drivers more for un/screwing anchor screws, and drills more suited for bolting screws?
Impact drivers can deliver far more torque while being less likely to damage screw heads or slip out. Drills work fine for small screws like deck or drywall screws, but for lag screws and most bolted connections, you'll need an impact driver or impact wrench (or hand wrench).

An anchor is a device that attaches mechanically to the inside of a drilled hole via some method other than engaging the material with threads. They're used for attaching things to drywall, brick, concrete, and other masonry. A screw is a mechanical device that uses threads to grip the material of a hole. In soft materials like wood, the threads can cut their own grooves, but in harder materials like metals they often have threads cut before installation (though some screws can cut their own threads in hard materials). A bolt passes through something and is secured with a nut on the other side.

What's the best way to remove waterlogged polyurethane foam from a polyester boat? I've been looking at acetone and special PU solvents but I'm not sure how those will affect the polyester hull.

So I found these horseshoes which spent the last couple of decades buried in the ground under a concrete patio. Is it feasible to restore the metal to a passable shape at home? What would it involve?

>>1655402
>Can I just get the cordless drill and get a separate cheap set of bits from one of those sets that come with a handheld grip?
Yes. It was done this way for years before the somewhat recent introduction of impact drivers.
If you're removing/inserting screws, in some instances a drill/screwdriver is preferred over an impact driver because of control of force.
A plus is you can still use it as a drill.

>>1655562
Electrolysis.

How much money do I need to do DIY on cheap?

>>1655581
Depends on the project; DIY oil changes or DIY CNC milling?

>>1655573
Cheers, time to jury-rig a housefire

>>1655466
Ryboi is a good homeowner brand. Makita is more expensive but you can’t go wrong buying tools from them.

>specific sockets
Ok, when you’re talking about tools, a socket is pic related. I think you mean “shank”, that’s the end of a drill bit that fits into the drill, and yes, impact drivers typically accept a 1/4” (or maybe they call it 6mm there?) hexagon shank with the little cutout like you can see at the base of the bits here >>1655430

Drills are more suited for making the actual holes, impact drivers are used to drive the screw or bolt into that hole. But if you could only pic one, get the drill. The drill will be better at doing both than the impact driver.

Drills do a good job at drilling and driving; impact drivers don’t do a very good job at drilling (and won’t fit most drill bits), but they do a better job at driving.

>>1655609
>a socket is pic related
That's one kind, and since interchangeable ratcheting socket wrenches became the standard, it's what most people refer to with the term. But "socket" is a general term for a driver arrangement where the driving tool has a female receptacle that encloses part of the driven object. A tire iron has fixed sockets, and the part of an impact driver that accepts the shank of a driver bit is a socket.

>>1655620
Yeah yeah that part. And a light socket. But for the sake of clarity...

>>1655466
Also knowing that Anon is an Aussie, when looking at the drills, the 10mm chucks are going to be equivalent to the 3/8” I mentioned before, and 13mm will be the larger 1/2” drill chuck.

Those cunts get screwed with pricing though. The cheapest Ryobi is around $100 with a small battery and crappy charger. A brushless Ryobi hammer drill with 2 batteries is $299 at Bunnings (although that’s the newest, best Ryobi drill so it’s not exactly a piece of shit).

Pic related almost looks like the Bunnings Black & Decker equivalent, something that will hold up to moderate use for awhile but isn’t complete chinesium. Specs on it aren’t too bad either, has a 13mm (1/2”) chuck, 2.0Ah battery, and a fast charger. No hammer drill function, but Anon could upgrade to a better brand in the future if he gets more serious.

>>1653161
There's a steel support cable that runs over my backyard, and the TV cable comes off of it. It's way too low at this point, how can I jack up the cable to 7 to 8 feet? Right now I'm thinking a 9 foot steel post driven down 2 feet with some kind of fiberglass or PVC Y at the top.

>>1655157
That's enough to do the job, but to do it well and have a nice finish you'll want higher grits. I prep my surfaces to 600 then after stain and first clearcoat I start at 800 and go to 1000 grit across multiple clearcoats for that deep glassy look. Let everything dry completely after each coat before you break out the sandpaper or you'll have blemishes.
>>1655466
>Glad to realize that impact-driving and hammer-drilling aren't the same thing.
Correct; impact is rotational force, while hammer is linear force.
>something to help with bike, PC, and electronics maintenance, and the occasional drilling of holes.
In that case you probably won't need hammer capabilities (unless drilling in masonry/stone, as mentioned).
If by "bike" you mean bicycle, you won't need impact capability; if you mean motorbike, impact could come in very handy indeed. If you find a model with adjustable clutch, that'll help you to not strip screws/threads/etc.
>>1655629
Pull the slack toward the house and tie the loop off.

RIP disposal?
Leaking like a dive when the dishwasher ran today.

>>1655633
>Correct; impact is rotational force, while hammer is linear force.
Not really. The relevant words are "driver" for rotational force and "drill" for linear force. Impact drivers contain an internal hammer that generates the impacts, and hammer drills produce impacts to chip away at the material being drilled. It's convenient that the terminology has settled on "impact" drivers/wrenches and "hammer" drills, but those terms mean essentially the same thing. They're just applied as modifiers to different processes here, and so refer to different mechanisms.

>>1655645
*Leaking like a sive. From the bottom when any water passes. Emerson 5-38. Guess I'll replace it today. Yay home ownership.

I'm moving to a new apartment and rented a f150. I gotta move a love seat, sleeper sofa, big old 55" plasma, kitchen island, and bed. What do I need to buy to tie things down to the bed, are these sufficient? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7KSAGI/

Anything else I should get that will make the process easier? I'm renting a heavy duty hand truck for $20 from home depot, I have a big roll of packing plastic wrap, a ton of towels for padding, and a couple rolls of tape. Trying to do this by myself, I'm a big guy and will be detaching the metal bed portion from the couch and moving them separately

>>1655659
Those tie straps will be fine. You may be better off just renting a U-hail truck for stuff that big unless you're find doing several trips

>>1655633
>Pull the slack toward the house and tie the loop off.
Still too low, I need to lift the support cable.
Well, I really want to just bury the TV cable, but I'm not doin' that shit right now.

>>1655659
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
Amazon
>Amazon
What is wrong with you people? Do you not realize there are other stores out there?

>>1655670
I'm fine making multiple trips, it's only a couple miles. Rental was only $60 because it's mid week and not on a peak moving day

>>1655679
convenience, I don't have a car. These straps are probably straight from china, I'm sure they'd be more expensive in store

>>1655683
If you're renting a truck and dolly, might as well spend the $60 on a cube van and do it all in 1 go.

>>1655683
Ehh. They'd be $10 at Harbor Freight or eBay.
Or get a rope if the straps don't actually come with the truck

>>1655659
>>1655683
>more expensive in-store
Not really. Ratchet straps and bungee cords are pretty cheap everywhere. Home Depot sells a set of 4x Husky ratchet straps that are pretty nice for ~$15.

>>1655714
Pic related. And you can get a jar of assorted bungee cords for like $5.

>>1655734
Case in point. Amazon is shit, yet everyone's default.

>>1655458
I'd still like to know how to do it, maybe no it won't replace store-bought but it'd be nice to be able to make my own sugar.

>>1655645
$85 and 4 trips later aaaand done.
Same model, but it sure does seem a lot louder.

>>1655800
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=collect+sugar+from+potato
Do it and post back here with questions or observations

>>1655829
I'm here BECAUSE I couldn't find anything easy/relevant on google. I was hoping someone here might have advice.

>>1655481
>>1655569
>>1655609
>>1655620
thank yous for clearing that up

>>1655626
>Those cunts get screwed with pricing though
it's a right pain in the ass, especially when different sites don't display the different currency codes and just opt for a dollar-sign.

But I'll look into Ozito drills, never heard of them before I started looking so it may be suited to my needs.

What is the bump limit on /diy/? Can not seem to find that info anywhere.

>>1655583
i mean any project that would make me feel good without spending much. actually spending a lot on DIY is stupid, it is not DIY anymore and quality wise it still won't be as good as stuff you can buy much cheaper.

>>1655847
>actually spending a lot on DIY is stupid

true, but many of us just like being capable, and if that means spending $200 on wrenches or a lot more on saws and drills, then so be it. At some point I just decided that if I could do it, I would as long as the expense is not crazy, just to avoid dealing with sketchy losers.

>>1655847
Again, it just depends on what you want to do. You might be able to do some light woodworking for under $100, maybe you like painting, maybe you like manual drafting.

I'll assume you have your own place but no real tool set or access to borrow someone's tools. Go build a workbench or a simple wooden box. You can do it with hand tools but your hands will be raw and you'll be tired as shit before its done. I suggest some basics like a saw and drill and hammer.

Tools can get very expensive very quickly. just buy what you need when you need it and don't get the cheapest chinese made shit possible. If you're just starting out and doing light duty, its okay to get cheap harbor freight stuff for non-essential tasks like a saw, grinder, corded drill. Because you're still trying to figure out what you want to do. I got a $12 corded drill from harbor friend and its not great but its torquey as shit and still works after building 2 workbenches and light projects around the house.

>>1655847
>actually spending a lot on DIY is stupid
Forgot to mention, but spending a lot on DIY isn't stupid. If you spend $1000 on tools to complete a job, you still own those tools. Even if it would have cost $500 to hire a guy to do the job, you own tools and can do more work with them. Short run: it costs a lot to do work yourself. Long run: you save a silly amount of money and don't have to wait for a service tech to come do it for you.

>>1655832
>easy/relevant
This is about as easy as it gets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKMkyr6CCSg
In thye old days, the way to get sugar in potato-growing climates was to grow sugar beets.

>>1655847
>actually spending a lot on DIY is stupid, it is not DIY anymore and quality wise it still won't be as good as stuff you can buy much cheaper.
Many things can be made for less than they cost at the same or better quality, for example, furniture that will actually last through generations or even one generation. Also many of us make some money on the side with our hobbies. You have to put in the time and money, which can be considerable for some things.

>>1655856
>Sugar beets
God..DAMN It why didn't I think of those. My apologies anon.

>>1655844
Between 309 and 330, judging from the catalog. Watch >>1642232 to find out the exact value.

>>1655849
>avoid dealing with sketchy losers
wait, you mean hiring someone? so it is a home improving project?

>>1655855
>If you spend $1000 on tools to complete a job, you still own those tools

so you guys made me think about this in a completely different way. i was thinking about DIY as a hobby to build stuff that is not necessarily practical and you may or may not need the end product (i like electronics). but your way of thinking is more practical, basically working on projects that you HAVE to have done, like finishing your basement or upgrading your kitchen or something, but you don't want to hire a contractor so you'd rather do it yourself to save money? i mean that is a good goal and good thinking but it is not what I had in mind. so sounds like there are more than one way to think about DIY. i know a guy who builds furniture for the heck of it, not because he needs it but he just enjoys working with wood. also if you buy $1000 worth of tools what if you will need entirely different tools for a new project??

>>1655859
>make some money
so that's more like a business not a hobby. so i see that most of you on here take a more practical approach to a hobby not some stuff you do for fun when you have a bit of free time.

>>1655869
Yeah, thats the right attitude; I frankly should have been more accurate in my post to you. I just bought a house so each tool I buy is saving me money for minor repairs, upgrades, etc. That is my mindset.

As for a "diy" hobby of machining widgets, precision instruments to carve doodads, or whatever, its the pleasure gained that is quantified greater than the money spent. If an amateur astronomer spends $5000 on a telescope, $3000 on a camera, or $5000 on a watch, it brings them joy to look at or use those things even if they'll never produce a return on investment. Thats what a hobby or recreational activity is. I spend way too much on guns an ammo, but it brings a smile to my face every range trip. Now That I spend money on maintaining my motorcycle, upgrading my house, or just doing repairs, I get more satisfaction and save money repairing it myself instead of paying someone else to do it.

>>1655869
>what if you will need entirely different tools for a new project??
$1000 dollars of tools would be mostly general, versatile tools like drills, wrenches, saws, hammers, grinders, tape measures, levels, and various other things that are applicable to a wide variety of projects. At that point, you're likely to add specialty tools periodically as needed, or to upgrade existing tools with better versions. Going into entirely new fields (machine tools, say, or welding) would take more money, but most people don't jump straight away into those things.

>so that's more like a business not a hobby
Depends on the legal distinction, which varies by jurisdiction. In mine, hobbies are limited to a certain amount of profit per year, and businesses have to turn a profit at some point. The idea of craftwork as a hobby is to make money doing something you like in your free time. Along with saving money by doing repairs/maintenance/construction yourself and building things for fun, it's one of the major areas of DIY.

>>1655869
>so that's more like a business not a hobby
It can be, but sometimes it is just that you make something and someone wants to buy it from you or you help someone out and they will insist on paying you. If you develop actual skills money will come of it unless you are a hermit or actively seek to avoid it bringing in money. I recently discovered a $100 bill stuffed under the blade of my block plane, I know a friend put it there and she will never admit it, she just wants to do more than just saying thanks and make sure I know she finds value in the time I have spent helping her.

>>1655864
Already watching it since I will be making the new thread, just got curious as to the actual number.

>>1655844
>>1655907
309 is the last post that bumps it, so 310. Isn’t it the same on every board?

>>1655919
>Isn’t it the same on every board?
Nope, according to the faq bump limit is set by the board and not global.

The lining in my car doors just peeled off. They were some pleather things. They were held on with adhesive. What kind of adhesive should I purchase to reapply them?

What position should pic related be in?

Ac was blowing cold air 2 days ago and had a healthy drip, and all of a sudden it seems as if it only blowing room temp air.

Drip is gone and it was not dripping from the drain line, so I checked line and cleaned it out. It had a ton of crap in it, but ac still doesn't seem to be blowing cold air.

I !essed around with this switch since it was previously hanging down on the off position. So I moved it up and closed the door. Does this require any special things like pull them push it up? It wasn't saying up and only did because I closed the door. Lights where not on for a broken fuse.

>>1656073
Capacitor. Butthurt HVAC fags thinking they deserve more than a medical doctor for swapping out a $10 part will argue otherwise, but the outcome will be the same.
As hard as swapping out the battery in your smoke alarm.

>>1656073
>my car doesn't seem to be running right - what could be wrong?

i have shit that is literally glued to the bowl. I tried using toilet cleaners but all they did was to change the shit color to blue/green. I tried using anti calcification spray and it doesn't work even if i live it there for 30 minutes or so. DIY please help me, I want to remove the hardened shit from my toilet bowl.

>>1656174
Use a pumice scrubber.

>>1656175
one thing i forgot to mention, my shit gets glued after everytime I go. I don't want to scrub after every shit. the bowl is way too small that is why my shit falls on the ceramic instead of the water.

>>1656177
eat more fiber.

on the topic of shits, every toilet I use will get regularly clogged with my ibs constipation if it's at least 3 days late (it goes up to 2 weeks late at times). I can plunge it down but I'm sick of that.
What solutions may I have? Are there even toilets specifically made for chocolate dragons?

>>1656035
Super 77

how shit are the granny flat toilets in Australia aye. every 3 wipes i have to flush or it clogs and then i gotta use the freaking brush to jam that sucker down the s-trap. fuck these American? designed toilets.

yeah pun intended

I recently got picrel and it says to dump grease in it every time. In a week i've already used uo the little grease tub that came with it. Because harbor freight I assume there is a better grease I could be using? If not, what is the technical name for just regular grease (the off-white stuff)

>>1656187
Personally, having never met a toilet I couldn't clog, Jacuzzi brand has been the best to date (but I would never buy new, so I don't know if there are modern betters)

>>1654013
Buy a thin blackboard or whiteboard, buy a magnet sheet and stick it on the back. Easy

>>1656187
Use a stool softener

>>1656283
thanks but any advice for a bloke in the same boat as this cunt >>1656199
it's bad enough that even places with 3 bedrooms tend to have only 1 bathroom, the flush is as conservative as the people here.

>>1656174
>I want to remove the hardened shit from my toilet bowl.
tap the build up gently with the handle of a butter knife
the scale will flake off it chunks.
after you break off all you can with the tapping, use acid to remove the remainder

>>1656187
>Are there even toilets specifically made for chocolate dragons?
>>1656283
>I don't know if there are modern betters

https://theshinyhome.com/best-flushing-toilets/

>>1656281
White lithium grease is a good one. Then you got your regular duty brown grease, heavy duty red grease, water resistant blue marine grease, or if you’re feeling extra fancy, get yourself some black moly grease

>>1656417
Thanks for the responce,
Im looking for maximum fancy, the tool is amazing but worried about lifespan. Are there incompatibilies with dumping moly into a resivour filled with the normal cream colored stuff?

Double top plates allow walls to join each other and you can put nails through the intersection. Is the same common for sill plates?

>>1653550
frens pls

>>1656440
It doesn't really matter which you choose, they will have a small effect on how things cook and on how they clean, but not much. Just pick one and get it done.

I'm looking for a water pump to supply water pressure in my cabin from a couple of IBC totes, I'm having a hard time finding a smaller pump that isn't for an RV, anyone know the name for that specific style of water pump?

>>1656420
I’ve never heard of anybody having issues mixing them. But if the old grease is real dirty, you should probably clean that crap out before you put fresh grease on top of it.

Also I don’t think you need to go too crazy. Greasing it on a semi-regular basis with the cheapest crap grease, I’m betting something else on that Harbor Freight tool is going to break. I’m not sure how much you can possibly extend the lifespan of that Chinesium with expensive grease.

Also the black smaller can in this pic is moly-fortified and I got it at Advance Auto. I think that’s some pretty good stuff, closer to $10 compared to like $3 for the tube of basic stuff.

>>1656530
>>1656420
Oh, and that Valvoline stuff I have is synthetic and “moly fortified”, but then there is the super expensive molybdenum disulfide. I would not put the MD in a Chicago Electric tool though, that is for critical industrial stuff or maybe like your classic $3mil Ferrari.

>>1656530
Ok, you seem to know your grease.

What greases work best at low temps like -30F? I bike year round and standard bearing grease gets way too thick at those temperature, it is like living in high gear all the time. The standard park tool stuff works, but I would not mind finding something cheaper than $20 a pound and would be thrilled about finding something that works even better, would not mind if it also held up better to the elements, my garage is unheated and repacking bearings when it is 30 below is not fun.

Also, what does the addition of moly do to the grease?

>>1656849
I have no idea. Any reputable grease from a reputable company will have some data to back it up. I believe good synthetics tend to stay closer to the proper viscosity across a wide range of temps, but there are so many formulas. I bet a product like pic related would work well, this stuff is made to hold up in the elements, but I don’t have time to start looking at data sheets right now.

And the moly is sort of like graphite I think. The molecules are very thin slippery plates that hold up to a lot of pressure so it’s the choice for high demand metal on metal like gearboxes and such.

And if you’re using Park Tools lithium grease, that’s not a bad choice at all. I bet there are some products that the cyclist forums swear by.

what adapter can I get that will allow me to refill a butane soldering iron with cheap camping/cooking butane? I rigged a ghetto adaptor with a plastic coffee stirrer but it just isnt cutting it. there are so many kinds on amazon I dont want to order the wrong one

Sup /diy/. So I bought a ve-hickle this year with a decent aftermarket sound system, but the subwoofer amp is faulty so I'm replacing it. The subwoofer is a somewhat obscure Eastern European one (sounds effing awesome btw, from when the sub amp was working properly). I'm trying to match another amp to this sub, but it's impossible to find any detailed specs and I can't read Polski anyway. This is the best I've found - but here's my conundrum. It says the impedance is 2 x 4Ω (and, accordingly, the 1-speaker sub model says just 4Ω). It doesn't say if the sub speakers are wired in parallel or in series. So when the spec says "2 x 4Ω" do I assume the impedance of the unit is 2Ω, 8Ω, or still 4Ω??

This can make a big difference in the amp I buy in terms of cost and power consumption and strain on the electrical system.

Thanks /diy/, you're always the best.

couldnt find the /ohm/ thread so i'll ask here:
i have this old 70s organ that isnt worth anything at all. I want to cut off the stand and turn it into a table top piano (like how keyboards are). All thats wired in the base is the volume pedal and a 12" single speaker

i was thinking of cutting the wired pedal and turning it into a 1/4" jack plug so the pedal isnt dragging around the organ anymore once i cut the base. the organ has a 1/4" headphone jack so I dont really need to keep the 12" speaker but i was considering doing a push-terminal on the back so you can plug in any speaker.

is this a dumb idea? its not like i could sell it any real money and i'd like to keep it around but its cunkly and heavy, and 99% of the electronics are in the keyboard section anyways.

What do I do with a flyback transformer?

anybody ever used shell omala hd 220 oil for chainsaw chain lubrication?

>>1656931
Raster scan an electron gun across a screen to display moving pictures

hi guys. got this skullcandy grind (?) headphone for free and yep its fucked up as you can see. cant find out where the red nr 1 cable goes. any idea?

If I wanted to repurpose a drill into a variable speed motor for a conveyor belt drive, would it be as easy as replacing the switch with a potentiometer or am I looking to have build something with a circuit board?

Hey /diy/ I am covering my furnace and water heater with wood paneling because its an eyesore. Is this a terrible idea? I plan on putting a vent near the access panel shown in the pic. Will one vent be enough?

>>1657055
Not enough details.

Is it indoors or outdoors
Electric or gas
Why do u want it vented

>>1657056
Indoors. Gas.
I assumed it needed a vent.

>>1657055
You can cover it, but just be sure theres plenty of ventilation such as a louvered door, or a actual vent register.

>>1657055

It's a brilliant idea to necessitate ripping out a wall every time you need to change a furnace filter or service a water heater.

>>1653322
Heat absolutely speeds corrosion.

>>1656886
>So when the spec says "2 x 4Ω" do I assume the impedance of the unit is 2Ω, 8Ω, or still 4Ω??
It means there are two speakers that are four ohms each.
Your image is of a two speaker sub-woofer using two twelve inch drivers.
If the spec references an amp, it implies two channels for four ohm speakers on each channel.

>>1656916
>is this a dumb idea?
Not if it's what you want.
You may be able to use material from the base to make a cabinet for the 12" speaker.

>>1657081
The panels can be removed easily

>>1657028
>would it be as easy as replacing the switch with a potentiometer
no
>>1657028
>am I looking to have build something with a circuit board?
you may not need a circuit board - you can use point-to-point wiring but you need more than just a pot.
If it's a standard-duty mains powered drill, you could get by with a heavy duty light dimmer.
If it's a heavy-duty mains powered drill, look for 'router speed control' box.

>>1657098
Thanks. I'm going to experiment with a dimmer I have laying around. I'm just cannibalizing a free HF drill for this project.

>>1657093
but there's only one speaker cable coming out of the sub, meaning the speakers are wired together. if they're wired in series the load will be 8Ω and if they're wired in parallel it'll be 2Ω. since i can't really get the thing apart to see i was just wondering what assumption was most likely, series or parallel.

Anyone on here who doesn't have a permanent DIY den and have to improvise? I only have a desk for my electronics projects since it is either too hot or too cold in the garage. So I store my shit literally everywhere. The biggest problem is to remember which stuff is stored where. And a second problem since I have a 'mobile' setup, I have to use a bunch of smaller boxes, and put them into bigger boxes, so I could clean up my desk quickly in case I want to move to the garage when the weather is good, etc. I tried big but shallow boxes so I could stack them on top of each other, then tried deeper boxes so I could put more stuff in them and I go back and forth and can't figure out how I should sort things and how to package them in a more optimal way. Or should I just insulate the garage? There is literally no insulation behind the drywall. Can you work in a well insulated garage when it is 95F and 70% humidity outside?

>>1657138
Get a window AC unit or something. You can get real cheap ones. I have this portable one. My garage isn’t insulated much but it will drop a few degrees and pull a lot of humidity out of my work area. The right fan setup helps as well.

Where do you do most of your work? If you don’t want to insulate the garage, store stuff by job I guess. Leave most of the tools for certain jobs where you tend to do those jobs most, and store by job, possibly having common shit like screwdrivers in both places.

how fucked would it be to pour 1 gal of rancid gas in the woods on my property? it's like 1 year old gas i don't want to fuck up my engines

>>1657291
use it as weed killer

>>1657295
dilute?

>>1657291
Just a bad idea I think to put that in the ground. I'd burn it.

>>1657298
I use old motor oil diluted with diesel.
You could use gasoline instead of diesel.
If you don't have any used oil, just use straight gasoline.

>>1656860
Park Tool does not have a lithium grease. Their standard grease, PolyLube is a blend of calcium and polyurea complexes, HPG-1 is silicone with abit of calcium and some zinc dialkyldithiophosphate thrown in to slick stuff up abit.

Been reading up on greases and finding piles of info, never crossed my mind that common easy to get consumer greases would have test data available until you mentioned it, too used to the bike world where they tell you nothing. Seems I can just use old fashioned cheap calcium complex grease and it should meet my needs well. Polyurea grease, which is what the bearing grease I bought was, starts to thicken at -4F, it is the worst performing of the common greases in cold weather.

I just got the smell of grease in my nose.

Picked up doing some hedge work on the side anyone have any suggestion for a budget hedge trimmer? like anything else trying to get the most bang for my buxk, I'd like to keep it under 50.
Doesn't need to be crazy good Ill only be doing like 1 or 2 jobs a month tops, just an additional service for my mowing.

>>1657458
Are you opposed to running an extension cord across the lawn? If not, that Portland stuff from HF isn’t bad at all considering you can get it for like $30 with a coupon. I have that hedge trimmer and it has been far less shitty than I expected. It chewed through some branches I thought I would need the lopper for.

There is a Black & Decker one you can get at Walmart for about the same price, maybe a few dollars more. I was looking at the B&D too and I think the specs are pretty much the same.

>>1657409
At least you found what you were lookin for. Grease formulations always have a working temp range because there’s so many types for so many applications. You just gotta find the halfway decent manufacturers that provide data sheets.

>>1657464
Not opposed at all That's what I was planning on doing, coreless is nice but it also weighs like 3 lb more and 3 lb on the end of your extended hands over several hours adds up real quick.

And yeah I was looking at it but like all harbor freight stuff you never know what you're going to get so I was hoping someone to have some experience with it, thanks I'll probably go with it.

How long has it lasted for you so far?

>>1657470
All of that Portland stuff generally has pretty good reviews. Downside is HF’s dogshit warranty on electrical stuff, but not like it matters on a $30 hedge trimmer. If it breaks within 90 days, get a new one free. If it breaks in 6mos, you probably need a heavier duty one anyway. And how light it is is definitely the best part.

And I probably bought mine a year and a half ago, but I don’t use it every weekend. I use it once every couple months to clean up the stuff my landscapers are too lazy to do. I run it through some pretty tough shrubs though. If it breaks tomorrow, I’ll feel like I got well over $30 worth from it.

>Assembled in the U.S. of A.
Thank the lord, I don’t want my gas station sandwiches comin from anywhere else

>>1657470
>>1657500
I keep debating the Portland pole saw next. That thing and the chainsaw have good reviews, everybody is amazed because they come with an Oregon chain, which means they didn’t use the absolute cheapest of everything when building those Portland tools.

>>1657503
>Enon OH
Been there, its pretty shitty

>>1657124
>>1656886
>is it internally series or parallel wired
Here is a trick that will work great or give false data depending on the enclosure the speakers are in
Lightly hold your finger on speaker 2 while forcing speaker 1 in and out. If they are wired in parallel the 2nd speaker will move slightly by the electricity generated by moving speaker 1. If wired in series there is no complete circuit to move speaker 2.
This falls apart in a sealed enclosure or many other designs as it is the air being compressed that is moving the other speaker instead of the electricity generated. It's one of those things you just get a feel for i guess.

I have some old beer glasses on which the printing has started to fade due to sun bleaching. Is there any way to get some of the color back?

>>1657555
Repaint or a really diluted black and clear mask over top. Mayne polyurethane. Might make it look wet at least.

>>1655509
Get a plastic scraper, or rather a dozen, and start scraping. Almost nothing touches polyurethane. And anything that will will eat the polyester long before.

I painted on a canvas using acrylic for the first time, forgot to cover the walls so it got covered in little specs of paint. I tried to clean it off with a warm damp cloth but the paint smudged and what's worse, the white paint that was already on the walls was coming off too and staining my rag white. What the fuck did they or didn't use to paint the walls to make it wash off so easily?

>>1657503
>>Assembled in the U.S. of A.
"from globally-sourced components." no doubt.

>>1657663
You ever had cat sausage from China?

>>1653309
22 doors? Sell the fucking house

>>1657811
w-why? Its actually about 30 sets of door trim.

>>1657500
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for the recommendation it's nice to hear someone without prompt recommend the one you are already thinking about getting. Got it for I think 31 with the 20% off coupon and I just used it for almost 4 hours straight and I have to say I'm thoroughly impressed.

Shockingly enough I was actually able to cut through limbs as or even probably thicker than what was advertised. Dump some 3-in-1 all over the blade after I was done as instructed we'll see how it lasts with the test of time.

i need to carefully cut a number of these trays to fit some drawers. all four sides. they are thin plastic with felt flocking on them.
both scissors and a paper cutter merely cracked them and despite my best efforts i could not get an even and strait enough edge with sandpaper, even on a large flat surface.
i imagine i will need to find a very fast table saw of some kind with a very fine tooth blade or a comparable bench mounted sander, but i'm not sure. are there any other ways to do this that i'm not considering?

>>1657848

Hot wire cutter.

If it cracks readily like that, it's probably PMMA or some particularly brittle styrene. They can be cut with a saw reasonably well, but don't respond well to shearing. You'd probably need a coping/jeweler's saw with a fine-toothed blade for something that thin, though.

>>1657085
Not nearly as fast as galvanic corrosion

>>1657845
That’s pretty much the same thing that happened with me, I got it home and it was chewing through anything that would fit in the teeth and didn’t fall apart after an afternoon of beating on it. I say if you get a summer or two of using it like that, it’s worth getting another for $30

>>1657848
I bet u could score and snap it.

Any idea on how I could fix pic related? Sew it? Tape? The material is PVC if I'm not mistaken.

>>1658301
Go get another pair for $5 at goodwill, don't wear taped up fucking shoes.

You're not homeless

why does my electrical panel buzzing?

>>1658621
Probably wasps inside. Open it up and spray pic related

Hey /diy/, I want a music box that play this song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-huV48Nqkk&t=1s..

What's the least time consuming way to do this?

What is this thing? Could it hold a shelf up? What if the shelf had books on it?

>>1659467
That looks like a bracket to hold a track for a garage door. You should probably use 2 of them for a shelf bigger than 12 inches wide.

>>1659486
Which part attaches to the wall? The slender part with the slot? Which direction do the screws go in when attaching to the shelf, through the metal and then the shelf or through the shelf and then the metal?

>>1659492
if you're using it for a little book shelf its overkill and doesn't really matter how you orient it; but the 5-hole part would go to the wall.

>>1659467
I don't know but it damn sure looks like it deserves its own thread.

>>1653309
Buy a nice power miter box because they’re worth having... get the 7.5 inch sliding kind.. 12 inch is nice but the blades are expensive as shit and you’d be surprised what you can get away with on a slider.. cut the trim on 45’s. None of it will line up satisfactorily... use white trim caulk to fix this and cover the nail heads... btw battery powered trim gun is worth the money.

Question:
How do I progress from being in fabrication work business to having my own business, either selling stuff made from metal online on etsy or just starting a business successfully?
I have some basic tools, stick welder, 2 angle grinders, various measurement tools, various clamps, and a small 6 meters by 10 meters workshop area with a small blacksmithing rig.
What products should I try my luck out, and how do I find products which I could make to sell? Please give me a few pointers.

Help me to not kill myself doing something stupid.

Recently moved into an old house with mostly 10A circuits, and that just doesn't deliver enough watts for the induction stove top I want to use. (3800w)
Best solution would be to upgrade a 10A circuit to a 16A, but that's sadly not an option. I do however have a 20A circuit available that I can wire it to, I just need some tips on how to do it safely.
I've heard I shouldn't use more than 75% of the watts the induction plate is designed for as the safety wouldn't work as intended, is there a way I can wire it up and still use the maximum wattage?
The induction plate is designed to work best on 16A as it would almost consume the entire circuit.

>>1659798
>How to do it safely
Are you talking about simply swapping out the breaker? Is it 110v?
The 10A are there for a reason. If your house is that old, more than likely your house is wired with 16g or even smaller.

>>1659823
Not swapping out the 10A breaker, the wiring is too thin, around 1mm (~18g) i think it was.

I do however have a 20A circuit all set up for the water heater. Whenever the stove is about to be used I'll turn off the water heater. It's only gonna be used maybe 1-2 times during the month for 2 hours or so so it shouldn't be a problem for the water heater.
I just wonder how I can safely connect 16A equipment to a 20A breaker circuit without any chance of fires if something happens and the breaker is too big for the current to go to ground.

>>1659823
It's 240v btw, if the use of metric units didn't already give it away

Hello guys , where is a good place to post thread about cultivating and growing plants?

Cheers

What kind of connector is this and can I convert it to a VGA?
It came with a projector for ipads, the projector is said to be able to work with PCs but you need a VGA dock made by the same company.
The VGA dock is a bit too pricey so I'm hoping to use something else

>>1659854
/out/ has the homegrown thread.

>>1659861
post brand/model and you would get your answer pretty quick instead of a shitty blurry picture

>>1654315
why bother fixing it? when it gets inspected, point out that it is dented, and then have it either professionally repaired or replaced.

I'm assuming it's owned by your work, so no point in trying to nigger-rig it. there's nothing in it for you.

>>1654349
If you lack a gutter on the roof, the concentration of rainwater right next to the foundation can cause moisture to seep through walls. This seepage will degrade the concrete and wreck your foundation eventually.

>>1659861
>>1659940
How about another blurry picture, but with letters?
It's a viewx I-connect laser pico projector, you can buy a vga dock for that port but there has to be a third party converter right?
This is all the info, the booklets don't tell anything else and I can't find specifications online

>>1659852
>>1659851
That makes sense - you indeed have a 20A circuit like you did say.
Using 16A on a 20A circuit should be perfectly fine.
Example: my coffee maker draws 1A. It's on a 15A circuit.

>>1660000
If something happens to the device and the wattage goes above 3800 it's expected to short to ground at 16A, but with an 20A breaker during a power surge it won't short to ground.
Is there a chance that the induction plate might overheat and such?

braind dead q what is uh the vinyl molding on this cabinet called where do i get it and how do i replace it

>>1660026
Are you talking about the crown molding, or the thermofoil finish on the cabinet?

>>1659945

I was afraid they would launch a witch-hunt to see who damaged their equipment. Turns out it was broken in another place by someone else and I got it fixed looking like a hero so everything turned out better than expected.

>>1660057
yeah the thermofoil

>>1660130
its a common material since every US cabinet maker uses it, the problem is properly applying it. it can be replicated, however as a diy I have no experience and cannot recommend it.

>>1659986
> 1 composite video cable (RCA female)

buy a five dollar VGA to composite video converter
plug in composite video cable
done

>>1657055
>enclosing a pair of power-vented gas appliances in a space with limited air circulation
I mean, at least the maintenance will only be a massive pain in the ass for a few months before the place burns down.

what is the standard I should be looking for instead of "Kubota Super UDT Hydraulic Fluid"? surely there is an SAE/ISO equivalent, I just can't find it

>>1653161
so, I am making a cutting board out of a section of cherry trunk - I'm not an experienced woodworker and I want to make sure I make a durable, good looking, and non-toxic surface, as it's a gift for my mom.

What process should I use? What sorts of products?

>>1660238
>"Kubota Super UDT Hydraulic Fluid
Use shell tractor hydraulic/transmission fluid

>>1660470
look on jewtube loads of walkthrough vids there anon

I'm trying to hang something that might bear up to 20 to 30 lb of weight, well I know a keyhole fastener is probably best I honestly don't trust myself enough not to screw it up and destroy the project cutting the slot out.

what I was thinking about is getting a simple saw tooth hanger such as pic related and coating both the screw and the outside with a strong epoxy.

it's rated for 10 lb by itself but I assume that's the strength of the screws right? If I also epoxy the flat part directly to the wood and maybe use a thicker threading than what comes with it that should drastically increase the weight bearing correct?

>>1660548
What are you hanging it to? That matters a whole lot. Going straight into drywall won’t hold much, but larger screws into studs will help a lot. 3x the designed weight limit will be pushing it though.

>>1655402
I bought an old Festool... with all the extras, angel head, drill sockets... does shit around the house, gauranteed spare parts. But I almost wet my pants when it drow 12 inch construction screws into a living tree

>>1660589
cool, thanks for the tip

I want to make a custom water feature for watering plants while making a nice river style effect. My main question is what material should I make the the section the water flows down out of? I need to be able to make it into a custom shape but want it water tight, long lasting, and food safe I'm the sense that the water passing over it is still safe.

>>1660574
a stud I would hope. I'm not going to be using it myself it's a piece I made to sell, so I wanted to retard proof it you know.

I'm assuming that the low rating is due to them coming with tiny ass little nails, if I switched it with a screw thats a lot more surface area for grip, and more area for epoxy to fill as well, I feel at that point it's no longer the weight of the nails, it's the actual metal that would have to break.


I also think I'm highly overthinking it.

Here's an odd question. What are some good youtubers, specifically people who scrap, thrift shop for fun, or modify(diy) things? Hardmode is that they cant be clickbait vloggers and/or should have some humor or quality to them

>>1660760
If you're making something to sell, you absolutely do not want it to break in use. 30 pounds falling off a wall can easily kill a pet, break toes, or damage flooring. Those picture hangers are made for SMALL pictures, and are a step down from picture wire. Retard-proofing (and liability-proofing) things involves over-engineering, not under-engineering. If you want something that you can just screw to the back of your thing, get a heavier plate with at least four screw holes, and cut a slot to accommodate a good-sized wall screw.

I'm thinking about joining an EIT program at my local college. I don't really know what I'm doing or what specialty to take. I was hopping someone here could point me in the right direction. Which of these are the good ones and which suck? Anything I should know? Thanks

>>1660788
not exactly what you're looking for, but Roadkill is that with cars.

I have an extension to my house where the walls are only made of bricks. If I was to insulate it, what thickness of celotex would be best?

Looking for a beginner router bit set and was considering this one, anyone have any experience by chance?

https://www.amazon.com/Shop4Omni-PIECE-CARBIDE-ROUTER-SHANKS/dp/B072BTYMCN


Or anyone have any suggestions? looking for a 1/2" shank

>>1660815
It depends on your climate. No need to overkill the thickness to get the job done. One thing for sure though make sure one side is foil faced the foil needs to be facing the brick. Acts as a moisture barrier. Your probably going need 1x2 wood slats to secure the the foam.
You may get away with painting the bricks with a sealer.

>>1648125

>>1660862
>15 reviews
Meh, they’re good but that’s not many reviews. Even my Harbor Freight shopping ass knows not to cheap out on bits if you expect them to work well and last. You don’t always need to go pro level, but name brand doesn’t hurt.

Is this PVC or Linoleum flooring?

>>1660914
after looking into it I assume it's PVC / "vinyl" flooring

>>1660870
Dutchfag. Thanks for the advice.

>>1660815
Bricks or blocks? What thickness? Is it solid or a cavity? What country/state are you in?

I ask because depending on local regulations you may need a minium thickness of insulation, based on your existing wall build-up. E.g. New extensions on an existing building in the UK should have a U value (heat transfer) should be 0.28 W/m2K which very roughly may be ~150mm of rigid foam insulation.

>>1661281
>>1661111
Oops missed this. Would assume your regs are similar as a fellow Yuro.

Also meant ~100mm*

what is it boys, scrap?

>>1661293
squeeze the handles and the arm on the tip slides in towards the adjustable arm toward the handles. not much force.

>>1661293
>what is it boys
a clamp
>>1661294
>not much force.
a gentle clamp

>>1661301
but it doesnt stay clamped it only clamps as long as youre squeezing. Why would the thing directly? Maybe thats why they dont make these anymore.

>>1661293
Picture frame pliers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153LKU0

>>1661307
Whats the wing nut do? Does it hold the clamps in place?

>>1661310
thanks bud
>>1661317
it lets you adjust the position of the arm that doesnt move when you squeeze. The squeeze arm comes toward it when you squeeze.

I'm having a hard time finding how much this is going to cost, or what even exactly to do.
>inna tonopah az
>zoning r-43
>single residential
>need a permit
How do and what cost? Do I need to speak to a lawyer? I'll suck your dick for answers.

Is it safe to solder this? I’ve done a lot of soldering, but I’ve mostly done kits and PCBs

>>1661347
Just get a new plug, it would be safer.

>>1661347

If you have to ask this question, no.

I still would say to just replace the plug, even if you did know what you were doing. It's like $1 for a new plug, easier, and you don't have an oddball stress point in your wire at the solder joint.

>>1661341
Permit for what?

>>1661412
This nigga was supposed to have a concert with Trick Daddy last Saturday at a public park in a smaller city. The city is half dindus and half rich people on the beach, so half the city was stoked and the other half the city was in fear (especially because they were advertising parking in the nice part of town with shuttles to the park closer to the hood so the white people were staying in Saturday night.

Then it was storming all day Saturday and they cancelled the concert like an hour before it was supposed to start. Half the town was super relieved, the other half was like “Awww ssshhhheeeiiit I spended 5 dollas on my tixets, where I get mag monies back?”

I bought some water and pressure-resistant glue to fix my sink up but it looks like a scam, I thought it was a tube of liquid glue but once I got home and opened the cover, it just looks like gray clay and it's a stick, feels kinda hard to the touch, the stick has another yellow stick inside like a sushi roll or a snickers and the instructions said to mash them together for a while till the color becomes one, which is what I did but it still doesn't feel like glue at all.

It says it's gonna dry completely in 24 hours, is it really gonna be fine? have you ever used this kind of glue? the cover also said it's good for stuff like boats or bathtubs.

hey how do i start growing my own herbs? a few of my plants died and i figure i might as well try and grown something useful.

>>1661670
>have you ever used this kind of glue?
It's a form of epoxy.
if you cut off a piece of the roll the size you need for the job, you automatically have the correct ratio of putty/filler to hardner
If you put the little disk back on the cut end it will have a pretty long shelf life.

How do you find studio space? I do metal and woodworking furniture/sculpture (along with painting, screenprinting, film production. Furniture and sculpture pays the bills though). Need to move my shop out of parents garage, no room at my current home.

>>1661836
Find industral/office areas. A lot of times you'll lease an entire section of the building which would otherwise be retail or warehouse space.

There are usually "parts" of the town that have this setup; warehouses where businesses run, but don't necessarily need a retail front or foot traffic.

>>1661853
They'd be cool with their renter using saws, welders, and various (loud) machinery at odd hours? (Generally speaking, of course)

>>1653161

My 300$ frigidaire dehumidifier is failing.

These things are basically refrigerators that cool down plates and run air through them. The fan and compressor runs but it gives an error code that is not explained in the manual and shuts off after a long time.

Do these things eventually run out of coolant? My best theory is that the coolant has leaked somehow because both the fan and compressor are running yet the copper pipes are not getting cold.

Can I do anything to check if that's the problem and then refill it?

>>1661862
If you're in an industrial warehouse they expect that. Most of those places are kinda big, if not double walled n shit. If you're looking for a small space you're going to be shit outta luck. You'd be looking at renting 3000 square feet at a minimum probably.

Sounds like you should move out of your parents house first; then you can work in your own shed or garage whenever you want.

>>1661866
You'd need a few tools to test if the coolant is fine, or if its even flowing. If its older, the valve may be clogged. It may be cheaper just to buy a new one instead of buying HVAC tools and freon.

>>1661868
I don't live with my parents, I just don't have a place for my bigger tools than their garage, which has become my defacto workshop.

>>1661866
>The fan and compressor runs
How did you test for the compressor running?

>>1661933

I listened to it

IDK it could be broken

>>1661293
>>1661294
It's a gynecologist tool for opening up a pussy

>>1661938
depending on the size of the compressor and it's construction:
it MAY have a run capacitor
it MAY have a start capacitor
it MAY have a start relay (or electronic equivalent)
If one or more of these are present but not functioning the compressor may hum or buzz but not actually be running.
Do a search on testing compressors.
Sealed systems rarely fail from
>the coolant has leaked
(rarely as opposed to an electrical part failing which is more common)

>>1661347
Get one of those 3 dollar male connectors from HD or L and you're good as gold. It clamps the wires with set screws and we used them on everything, never came undone.

Is it ok to use PTFE tape as electrical insulator? Regular black tape is too thick for the small electronics wires I'm insulating, and it has a tendency to lose stickiness and fall off.

>>1661949

I can feel the vibration from the compressor so the motor is actually running.

It could of course still have a mechanical issue though.

>>1661966
Yes, except PTFE doesn't stick to anything, and it would fall off even quicker.

>>1661786
I lost one of the disks in the mess and the rush, I can try to make a new one though, if it's just plastic.
The stick's front does look kinda hardened now but still feels malleable.

>>1653161
what type of screw is this?

>>1662213
>>>1653161 (OP)
>what type of screw is this?

If it didn't have the long unthreaded bit past the threads it would be a shoulder bolt.

It looks like a custom piece with what looks like an o-ring groove under the head. Is it a dipstick for something?

Answering the unasked question, it's about a hour lathe job if you slot the head. If you want a hex or torx head you need a rotary broach.

>>1661868
>If you're in an industrial warehouse they expect that.

Call around to machine shops and other light industrial facilities and see if you can sublet space.

If you are in Austin Texas the ATX Makerspace is where I'd go. They have/had an auto bay that may be available if they got the EV conversion project moved out.

>>1662370
>Austin
I'm in Jersey. The Maker movement missed this state. No maker spaces unless I go wayy out of state

Should I stay here or go to /ck/ for gardening advice?

>>1662922
/out/ homegrown thread.

Where can I buy plastic sheets like acrylic or polycarbonate that aren't ridiculously expensive? I always want to use clear plastics for projects but it's just too much money

>>1663449
Have you checked a local hardware store?

>>1659861
looks like e-sata, which is for external hard drives

>>1660811
join the navy, tell them you want to be a gse. 5 years later, you walk into an easy $90k/year job as an electrical maintenance tech. ez-pz.