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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 2.49 MB, 2448x3264, carbide-inserts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1638309 No.1638309 [Reply] [Original]

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread:>>1620158

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

>> No.1638311

Contributions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

>> No.1638312

and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w

>> No.1638314

http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/

>> No.1638363

>>1638309
migrated

>> No.1638402
File: 292 KB, 2000x1499, right-view-of-enshu-je30s-machine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1638402

Haas is one level above Jett. They use stove coils to dissipate spindle heat.

https://youtu.be/LRSAioIp-bA

>> No.1638477

>tfw getting strange ass alarm on my fucking machine
No one I speak to fucking knows what it is.

1019 inverter hitch - fanuc OT

>> No.1638478

>>1638477
Take a picture. What kind of machine. What year?

>> No.1638479

>>1638477
Alarm codes in the 1000’s are external alarms. Description is the alarm was detected by the PMC ladder. If I am not mistaken these are written by the MTB. They will not be in the Fanuc manual. You will have to refer to the MTB manual or track down the alarm through the ladder or the diagnosis bits. If the MTB is still around then contact them and they will be able to tell what the alarm is from.

Are you trying to change the tool to an empty tool or the current tool in the spindle? Does this happen on every tool? Some of my older Fanucs use to be really touchy with tool changes. You couldn’t change the tool if there was a value in the offset page “wear”.

Stevo

>> No.1638480

>>1638479
machine tool builder = MTB

>> No.1638487
File: 2.77 MB, 4160x3120, 0619191718.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1638487

>>1638478
Leadwell GTC-25
Fanuc OTF controller
Model year 1994

>> No.1638489

>>1638487
Overtravel isn't an issue, I fixed that. I have a 40hp phase converter powering this machine so it should work, but for some reason when the spindle starts up past 1000rpm I get the 1019 alarm.

I may have to call leadwell and ask wtf.

>> No.1638492

>>1638489
How long has it been happening? I mean if it just started happening I would almost think the phase converter is putting out dirty power. Those fanuc drives can be pretty finicky when it comes to power.

>> No.1638493

>>1638492
Nope, just bought and hooked everything up and started getting this issue

>> No.1638495

>>1638493
I would bet anything it's the phase converter. We have customers hooking these 220 3phase machines up in their barns or garages all the time and those machines are always a pain to get running right because they don't get the power they really need. You could try putting some ferrite going into that spindle drive. Or put an amp clamp on the power for that drive. I dunno.

>> No.1638496

>>1638492
>>1638489
For more info, I can manually jog the spindle slowly up to 2800rpm without issue, but it's when the machine gets a code and it speeds up fast is when this happens

>> No.1638498

>>1638496
What's the max spindle speed? I know on newer fanuc controls there is a parameter you can set to have the spindle rev up slower or faster. Not sure about a 1994 fanuc though

>> No.1638499

>>1638498
3k rpm, I'll call fanuc as well and ask about that parameter

>> No.1638502

>>1638499
Leadwell is still making machines... unfortunately lol

>> No.1638601

>>1638402
sure they do, anon...

>> No.1638621

>>1638502
>unfortunately lol
it's a fine little machine so far. just the whole inverter problem.

>> No.1638629

>>1638621
Did that turn out to be the problem?

>> No.1638632

>>1638629
I haven't gotten to contact leadwell yet, they're out for the day until Monday.

>> No.1638639

>>1638632
shit, sucks

if you have the manual for the machine, according to the internet, it might be in there. not the fanuc manual

>> No.1638694

>>1638402
Enshu machines are fukken NICE.

>> No.1638696

currently machining a 1/2 piece of HSS into a lathe form tool with a TiAlN coated 1/4 5fl finisher with a 17 thou radius

it sounds like one of those machine cutting demonstrations where they turn the rpm down to like 600 and then blast across a giant block of steel with an insert tool

tool hasn't grenaded yet and the surface finish looks great, like most hard-milling

>> No.1638701

>>1638696
We face small (couple inches square at most) pieces of pure tungsten at work as a regular job. On its own it wouldn't be that bad but it's bedded in a material on the whole other end of the hardness spectrum. We do it on a VF2 and you'd think think the machine would start walking away with how much it vibrates.

>> No.1638704

>>1638701
I'm using a Tormach so less is worse.

It could be a piece of HSCO actually, for some reason I had surface ground it to nearly exactly 1/2 and it took off the label.

>> No.1638936
File: 162 KB, 1200x900, original.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1638936

>>1638601
Looks like an stove coil to me.

>> No.1638953

>>1638936
How do you know that isn't a copper coil or something with coolant flowing through it?

>> No.1638979

Has anyone unbent acme rod before?
I bought an angled vise and it has a slightly bent screw. It almost opens and closes all the way, it stops 1/4 short of closed.

I have the HF 20 ton press, so any tips or tricks?
It looks like an import clone of the 2-1/2 palmgren ones I see on ebay, so its not that critical. Just not worth the effort to build a new screw or the money to buy one.

>> No.1638984

>>1638979
set it on a couple V blocks or rollers, heat and tap

is what I would try, if you have a torch.

>> No.1638991

>>1638984
or just rolling it on the blocks will straighten it out, get it hot enough to sag in the area you think the bend is in, then roll it until it cools

>> No.1639060

Form tool works, mostly. Crappy surface finish.

>> No.1639085

>>1638953
Because I travel all over the country and see Haas machines all the time. It's an oven coil. I've seen them personally. I'm not saying haas is a bad machine they are just cheap and for some people they are just fine. And why the fuck would they use coolant to surround a resistor?

>> No.1639118

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gfv1rXAVDNg

Probably going to have to do something like this in my Tormach here pretty soon.

>> No.1639120

>>1638984
the screw is probably hard you dont want to heat it

>> No.1639192

>>1638309
>>1638311
>>1638312
>>1638314
Holy fuck make a pastebin and organize that shit you hurt my eyes

>> No.1639199

>>1639192
It's all outdated mostly anyway, there are a million better links to choose from. It's still not bad to jump in I guess.

>> No.1639204
File: 94 KB, 1125x810, lathe tool.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1639204

What lathe tool do I need to get into this tiny groove?

the part is like 0.315" inches diameter total

I can either grind a piece of Mo-Max cobalt or a piece of carbide into the shape.

groove is 0.079" wide, minus the chamfer there

>> No.1639212

>>1639204
>tfw NO SUPPORT FOR LATHE FORM TOOLS IN FUSION 360

fuck me. Guess I'll turn a thin piece of carbide into a grooving tool or something.

>> No.1639252

Yay or nay
https://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/d/topeka-bridgeport-mill/6923028490.html

>> No.1639255

>>1639252
Depends. Is it a clapped out piece of shit? Then, hell no. Is it like new? Then sure.

>> No.1639257

>>1639252
1967? crazy old for a knee mill. push and pull on the table with everything in the center, see if it moves or twists.

the scraping marks there in the middle of the Y axis make me think it has been rebuilt.

basically this: >>1639255

also put ball screws into it and slap servos on the axes.

It also has
>no power feed
>no digital read-out


The bridgeport branded boxes on it almost look like scales for a DRO though.

>> No.1639300

>>1639204
5/64 grooving insert

>> No.1639302

>>1639300
what holder do you recommend?

>> No.1639308

>>1639302
I've used sandvik corocut but I don't know if it's the best for that

>> No.1639717

wtf I hate not having work to do, fucking IRL Rip Van Winkle shit I thought it was Monday already damn.

>> No.1639937
File: 20 KB, 228x171, page0_6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1639937

any idea on the make/model of this specific benchtop? From the western US.

>> No.1639941

>>1639937
yeah it looks like one of those Sherlines

>> No.1639946
File: 37 KB, 768x576, Sherline_4000az.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1639946

>>1639941

>SHERLINE 4000A LATHE

thanks

>> No.1640030
File: 1.30 MB, 4032x2268, IMG_20190701_112851.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640030

Can anyone tell me why this crud is appearing? It's only in the tool umbrella, everywhere else doesn't get it. Pretty sure it's just dried coolant but none of the other machines have this problem.

>> No.1640096

>>1640030
higher pressure coolant on that machine blasting it up farther? Does it sling the tools slower or faster than others?

I have no idea man, I'm just spitballing here. interesting though.

>> No.1640130

>>1640030
Looks like you're cutting something like wood or ceramic and that's hardening in the umbrella.

>> No.1640132

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IggTRZEHi0k

>> No.1640134

>>1640030
Coolant is cooling down and condensing up there and crystallizing because whatever is dissolving into it?

Maybe replace the coolant and see if that reduces it. You might need a regular schedule for it. Something is building up and precipitating out

>> No.1640167

>>1640096
I know how it's getting in the umbrella, what I want to know is why it's congealing like that.
>>1640130
No wood or ceramic, normal metals. It's not "hardening" per se, it's like fucking dick cheese or something
>>1640134
Did a full replacement today, cleaned the tank out and such. When I ran a first piece a light, white film was covering the parts, like a very, very light and fine dusting of flour.

>> No.1640174

>>1640167
UV light?

lots of tramp oil mixed up into the coolant separating?

>> No.1640182

>>1640174
If tramp oil can cause that, yeah it's probably that.

>> No.1640188

>>1640167
minerals in the water?

>> No.1640207

>>1638309
https://www.cnctimes.com/editorial/end-mill-helix-angle-selection

>> No.1640210

>>1640207
Now that we have nailed down the purpose of helix angles, let’s see how they vary by metal. The following chart below will briefly outline the helix angles for different metals.

Steel: 30˚

Stainless Steel: 30˚

Brass: 13˚

Plastic: 40˚

Zinc: 40˚

Copper: 40˚

Titanium: 35˚

Aluminum: 45˚

>> No.1640214

>>1640210
Digging into specific helix angles a little further, we can see how force propagates throughout an end mill as the helix angle changes. When the helix angle is 45 degrees, the forces between the axial and radial components are equal, 50:50. However, if you use a tool that has a 30-degree helix angle, the forces are more uneven, 25% axial to 75% radial. The higher end of tools will have a 60-degree helix angle which will help keep the radial forces down thus minimizing vibrations and maximizing chip evacuation. This does come with a downside, however. At this angle, cutting is weaker and the toolpath has to maintain a shallow depth. Cutters with lower helix angles, as you may have suspected, are much stronger but the surface finish tends not to be as good.

>> No.1640218

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-U3ww4NMZfE

3d metal printed milling tool is lighter-weight reducing chatter

>> No.1640294

>>1640167
have you checked the coolant for calcium levels?

>> No.1640337

>have a few multi million dollar 5 axis gantry mill at work
>I will never be good enough to be put on them
feels bad lads

>> No.1640371

>>1640337
Why would that be?

>> No.1640438

>>1640337
>will never be able to use a multimillion dollar mill/turn to make giant dicks
I know that feely feel

>> No.1640576

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k17QjIxmT1U

>> No.1640590
File: 209 KB, 1531x770, Hermle epoxy granite.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640590

>>1640576

>> No.1640598

>>1640576
how is that coin being held in place?

>> No.1640599

>>1640598
glue?

>> No.1640652

Hi homos I’m new to the gay club. Making a machinist hammer later for reasons. On the head I want exchangeable hammer faces. So far I intend on a brass, aluminum, steel and potentially lead inserts.

What two faces should I keep on it for regular use?

>> No.1640673

>>1640652
Rubber and brass

>> No.1640674

>>1640652
lead and brass

>> No.1640697

https://bn.craigslist.org/tls/d/heyworth-south-bend-lathe-heavy-9/6921257000.html

The guy with the bridgeport was a dingbat so I never went and saw it.
This seems like its would be a nice upgrade to my clapped out Atlas lathe though. Thoughts?

>> No.1640726

>>1640697
pretty dirty looking, might be a worthwhile machine though. very compact too.

>> No.1640735

>>1640697
has a taper attachment on it

>> No.1640782
File: 2.06 MB, 4032x3024, 682DB512-2F83-46F8-AECC-3B3BCA136DC3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640782

Ay bbys what the fuck is this?

>> No.1640784

>>1640782
looks like it might be cast iron? a faceplate of somekind? no that looks like a carbide insert screwed onto it... homemade cutter?

i dunno my dude looks all kinds of wack

>> No.1640787

>>1640782
One hell of a boring operation

>> No.1640790
File: 2.05 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640790

>>1640787
>>1640784
Hmm. If it helps this came with it.

>> No.1640839

>>1640782
home made face plate?

cutter stuck on it makes me think it's mill turning block or something.

ho-ho, a turret attachment, for high production work.

Also, I would like to mention, putting your business and location on machinist forums is great advertising, already got a couple customers emailing me.

Xometry finally asked me to send in the test part too, pretty bad-ass.

It's all coming together, finally.

>> No.1640841

>>1640790
AHA okay thats for turning spheres on lathes. im like 99% sure

>> No.1640842
File: 39 KB, 859x591, Ball1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640842

>>1640790
>>1640841
pic related
im sure theres videos on jewtube about how to use em

>> No.1640849

>>1638496
probably too much draw on the converter when you just go straight to that speed.

try starting at a lower speed and just call a higher speed later (if your controller allows it)

>> No.1640855
File: 2.36 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640855

>>1640842
OH SHIT THATS IT. Check out the other parts I have laying around.

>> No.1640857

>>1640790
>>1640841
h'what?

that isn't a turret attachment??

>> No.1640879

Anyone know of a good magnetic transfer material? You can't just shim parts with steel and expect them to hold down.

Need something that the magnetism penetrates without distortion to get the tops of the flux arcs to terminate inside of the thin material I want to mag down.

Does plastic or something similar work?

>> No.1640916

>>1640849
Yeah, I'm going to slap a (G04 P-) dwell command between them if I absolutely have to.

>> No.1640917

Did I over or under bid this job?

6" round plate, 1/8 thick or so

12 or so of these little chamfered holes in it.

Bid $320 for 250 of them (minus material costs). I think I might have overbid because the milling is so simple, it's only hard because it's thin plate.

$1.28/piece of simple electrical cover stuff.

>> No.1640919
File: 51 KB, 663x856, bid question.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640919

>>1640917

>> No.1640929

>>1640917
>>1640919
I would charge more honestly, just because it seems it might be a pain to hold and because of how many there are

>> No.1640932

>>1640929
I'm more worried about getting the contract at the moment, at least I didn't overcharge.

btw am I just retarded or is enough material for 250 six inch round discs of mild steel 1/8 thick stupid expensive?

I'm quoting like $1,300 for the material.

>> No.1640934

>>1640932
shit, I guess I didn't even quote buying a piece of cored rod and parting them off individually.

>> No.1640936

>>1640934
nope, it's still around the same price. Sucks for the customer I guess.

>> No.1640938

>>1640936
You're under charging. I'd say at least $2 a piece.

>> No.1640944

>>1640938
The tolerances are basically wide open and the customer doesn't even care what kind of steel they're made from, doesn't seem like the job to up-sell on.

>> No.1640957

>>1640916
can u just call a new speed in another block?
start w/ m4 s1000 then call out
s2000 in the next block.
(if it's got a transmission make sure the high/low gear range is correct)
i do it on old 2 speed fadals, om-i fanuc fadal that have no problem changing spindle speed if you just call out a new S mid program

>> No.1641017

this guy gets props for jankiness

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYuxEnbIG0I

>> No.1641136

>>1640957
Might work, but I'm not sure really. The machine speeds up so fast that it gets up to speed quicker than most cars. I'm talking like 2-3 seconds.

>> No.1641208

>>1640938
sweet, easy work. couple hundred bucks for just adding the chamfers to water jet blanks.

>> No.1641518

>>1641208
I think that would cost him more than just doing it himself

>> No.1641544

>>1641518
apparently not

>> No.1641547

Hi, not sure if this belongs here. I got a drill press and I'm using it for the first time. I got about 1/4" into what I'm drilling and I can't go any further. I'm using oil, and the speed seams to match what is appropriate for the size bit I am using.

>> No.1641550

>>1641547
What kind of drill bit, what kind of material are you drilling

>> No.1641552

>>1641550
It's a ryobi bit and I'm trying to drill a hole through some steel (not sure what kind). Getting the hole started was easy but now it won't go any further. I don't know if I should be putting more pressure on it because I didn't need to at the start. I'm definitely putting firm pressure on it.

>> No.1641555

>>1641552
Diameter of the hole and rpm?

Ryobi, more like cryobi. They're pretty shit tools so it likely rolled the cutting edge over and now it's just turning electricity into heat and noise.

>> No.1641558

>>1641555
3/32" @ 1530 rpm. I acknowledge their cheapness, I bought them for something else and it says they can handle metal so I thought I would try it out. I have amazon up and there are so many options for new bits, what do you recommend? Because I'm down to buy all new shit. I'm sure this is stuff that gets asked a lot so if there is a brand guide or something, I'd like to peak at it.

>> No.1641561

>>1641558
peek*
>>1641547
seems*

If you cut as well as you type, you're going to have a bad time. Go to amazon, type 3/32 drill bit, and choose companies like viking, sowa, dormer, guhring, and vermont. There's a fuckton more but those were off the top of my head. Don't buy drill bits from companies that make cheap power tools in hardware stores.

Look for cobalt HSS drill bits.

>> No.1641562

>>1641561
I can assure you I cut much worse than I type. But thank you, I'll check those out.

>> No.1641566

>>1641552
>(not sure what kind)
This is important. What exactly did you get the steel out of?
A cheap HSS drill bit, even lower quality than Ryobi, should be able to drill through mild steel unless the edge is fucked. In your case it sounds like it lost its edge mid-cut, which can happen if you drive it too fast/hot (shouldn't be the case here) or try to drill something really hard or really poorly. You might have some spring steel or whatever that HSS just won't drill through, in which case you'll need something like M42 cobalt or carbide, both of which are fairly expensive, and carbide is not really suited for drilling, but you can get away with one or two holes.

>> No.1641580

>>1641552
sounds like drilling tool steel, you get it too hot and it hardens and then you can't drill it

you can try jamming the drill down through the hard spot harder and faster then after don't let it heat up like that again

it's not hardly worth looking for specific brands for workshop-tier use, just buy a pack of 3/32 drill bits from mcmaster (amazon for industrial stuff) or MSCdirect or something.

https://www.mcmaster.com/drills

>> No.1641819

>>1641552
u have probably killed the cutting edge on ur drill. get a new one or sharpen it

>> No.1641929

Need some good 'Merica machining for the 4th of July.

>> No.1642095

>>1641929
No one posts what they're working on itts so might be disappointing

>> No.1642104

>>1642095
Well personally I'm waiting on some tools for a test part out of 316 stainless.

Low helix are almost exclusively for high rigidity, high horsepower machines doing conventional type milling, I'm fairly sure. Which is kind of disappointing because I have so many of them I can't use for much in my Tormach.

The modern high efficency milling tools even for Stainless and hard metals are fairly high helix and they cut steel beautifully even on low HP machines like a Tormach.

Check these babies out: http://www.lakeshorecarbide.com/6fluteendmills.aspx

>> No.1642120

>>1642104
Oh and most of my 30 degree helix endmills are 3flute as well, which sucks. The 4-flute are usable at reduced S&F.

Like 150-200 max SFM.

>> No.1642129

Pierson has more robot parts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2clsOKs7Zkw

>> No.1642227

>>1642095
I made a shaft and a sleeve for it and learned that round parts turn oval after I weld them.

>> No.1642239

>>1642227
cold rolled?

>> No.1642265

>>1642239
I think it was hot rolled.

>> No.1642291

>>1641552
Have you tried raising the table? I had a guy break a drillpress cuz he was hitting the stop and just pushed harder and harder. Also check the depth-stop.

>> No.1642305

>>1639085
>They use stove coils to dissipate spindle heat.
>And why the fuck would they use coolant to surround a resistor? Are you saying they dissipate heat by converting it to electricity? Perhaps the coils are meant to keep the spindle warm in cold environments.

>> No.1642396

>>1638402
>They use stove coils to dissipate spindle heat.
Since this is being brought up again and again. I have to ask, what do others use? Circulated coolant?

>> No.1642423
File: 27 KB, 600x600, a-breaking-resistor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1642423

>>1642396
Nobody circulates "coolant" through a spindle or anything. Coolant goes into a coolant tank and is really more of a material cutting lubricant. MTB use refrigerated oil like a ISO VG10 oil that is super thin almost like water. They circulate that oil through the spindle and sometimes through the ballscrew but that's usually an option. When you stop anything going at a high rate of speed it will produce a counter force in this case heat. So when you got a spindle going at 10k+ rpm and it stops within 2 seconds that energy has to go somewhere and is concerted into heat and sent through a large resistor. Like pic related.

>> No.1642429
File: 60 KB, 509x720, Hill teeth.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1642429

>>1642305
Have you ever been around a CNC machine? Like a real one? Who the fuck would circulate coolant around electricity? Spindles have a warm up procedure not a cool down procedure. People dont drop 10's of thousands of not 100's on a precision machine to throw it in their backyard and hope it doesn't snow that day seriously wtf. Heat the spindle up in a cold environment hahahaha. You know they got bearing in them and they heat up naturally and almost all machines have a spindle chiller that circulates oil at a certain temp and most machines also have parameters for thermal growth. So unless you have a CNC shop at the North Pole I don't think you would need to be using oven coils to heat your spindle up.

>> No.1642432

>>1642423
>So when you got a spindle going at 10k+ rpm and it stops within 2 seconds that energy has to go somewhere and is concerted into heat and sent through a large resistor. Like pic related.
That's neat, I never knew they had resistors like that. Shame that they can't just use custom thermoelectric heatsinks to just change that energy back into electricity. But I digress.

>> No.1642439

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2m4D1XEr4ow

>>1642429
>m-muh cnc needs to be in a perfect environment 24/7 !
>d-don't r-run it cold in the morning!

>> No.1642445

>>1642439
This guy thinks Hass is precision haha. It doesn't need to be in a perfect environment. But if you cut the dumb shit this guy does who probably doesn't even know what backlash compensation is then who cares throw it in the side of the hill in 120° weather. But if you're cutting intricate precision parts it helps to keep everything at a reasonable temp. You do know metal expands and contrasts right? If you ever go into a machine shop that cuts very small very precise parts or does government work. It's always fucking climate controlled. So go back to that Chad thundercucks tits of industry and watch him cut super manly giant pieces of metal. Hass isn't junk but it's basically bottom tier.

>> No.1642450

Woah cutting 316 stainless with a 6 flute "finisher" is dead silent.

>>1642445
That's the entire point of buying a fucking Haas you retard, don't over-invest in machinery that you will be stuck with for 20 fucking years while everyone else has newer shit and is out-competing your ass handily.

The same thing happened when the British and Americans were still making manual machinery, they were so well made they will and did legitimately last a fucking lifetime in a production environment--and that made them so expensive it was hard to replace them and the companies eventually died because the customers couldn't keep up with the changing pace of technology.

Today you can look at your phone and instantly get a webcam feedback of how your parts are cutting, what machines are cutting, what machines need maintenance, what machines are broken, etc.

buy a cheap Haas today, get along with their service, and then in 10 years buy a new one.

>> No.1642471

>>1642450
Hass is perfectly suitable for a small place. But they can't compete with real tool builders. There is a reason you see Haas repair vans on the road and not npt, cubic, quasar, kitamura, OKK or enshu repair trucks is because those machines are built to go decades with no downtime.

>> No.1642473

>>1642471
None of those machines are going to survive being crashed by the operator.

>> No.1642475

>>1642471
this reeks of boomer

>> No.1642494

>>1642471
Every machine has to have maintenance at some point, if I had to buy a high tier brand it would be mazak because of the cost of parts, support, and I like the controls.
Haas is nice, but expensive as fuck to fix, the control is really the only selling point.

>> No.1642496

>>1642494
gigabytes of control storage is a pretty nice selling point

>> No.1642552

>>1642496
Even then you're paying hundreds for an upgrade of barely 60$ of GB. Haas pisses me off when they do that kind of shit. Like the fucking lighting and HSM. Just give me the Damn features and don't fucking nickle and dime me to death for some thing that should be standard.

>> No.1642578

>>1642552
compare that to mazatrol or fanuc-shit though

>> No.1642592

machining stainless rules, such low MRR you have time to dick off all day

>> No.1642634

>>1642552
It's priced like a car, yeah you "can" buy one for 25k but to get anything you want is another 10k.

>> No.1642664

>>1638402
>>1638936
>>1639085

>>1642423

fuck i wrote the stove coil shit off as trolling(because why the fuck would they have a stove coil cooling the spindle) but he was talking about the fucking braking resistor this whole time ahahahaha

>> No.1642679

>>1642592
>aaaand then I snap off a $25 endmill 70% of the way through

I should have known better than to try slotting with a fucking 6 flute endmill.

>> No.1642697

>>1642679
Too fast, too hard, nigga.

Buy at least 3 endmills for any project/job. I learned this the hard way

>> No.1642698

>>1642578
I use an old ass fanuc OM from 1989 and it's not so bad, haas just has videos on how to do everything so it's much easier to get going with one of those.

>> No.1642699

>>1642697
I bought two and immediately regretted not buying more.

Someone ignorant enough and in enough of a hurry could throw like $500 worth of tools at a simple job easily in stainless.

>> No.1642709

>>1642697
>>1642699
>tfw had to program, setup, and run jobs on shoestring budget
>"you only get one endmill for this stainless"

HSM is your friend.

>> No.1642729

>>1642709
checking my tolerances, basically all of them have like 4 thou left to mill away.

1/4 tool with like 1.5" stickout apparently flexes quite a bit

>> No.1642737

>>1642729
what the fuck my mic keeps getting shit on it, what could it even be?

dried coolant? skin oil?

film measures 1 thou three tenths throwing my fucking readings off

>> No.1642744

>>1642729
>>1642737
yep it's straight tool deflection too, thinner at the top thicker at the bottom

>> No.1642753

>>1642744
crazy a 6 flute can deflect 4 fucking thou without breaking

>> No.1642760

>>1642753
I've had #6 thread mills deflect as much as .008"

>> No.1642763

>>1642760
oof

>> No.1642772

>>1642709
also, that sounds horrible.

If you know a recipe with the tool and it's a good tool, you might be able to pull it off.

>> No.1642773

>>1642772
I did, the tool was unusable at the last pass of the final part. I went over to the green grinder wheel and handbombed some kind of an edge on one of the remaining flutes and cleaned up the remaining feature surface.

n a i l e d
i t

>> No.1642774
File: 30 KB, 605x456, 1455224201807 - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1642774

What is everyone's thoughts on high helix endmills for tool steel/stainless?

I've had nothing but good experiences with high helix for aluminum, tool steel, stainless, basically everything metal.

~40 degree helix for steel, 45 for aluminum, and some great HEM type toolpaths with long depth of cut low radial. Even the tool deflection I'm getting is worth it because I can just run the 2d contour passes again and have both the HEM tool life and a great surface finish from the rougher.

Is low helix even worth it these days?

>> No.1642775
File: 29 KB, 550x336, nice.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1642775

>>1642773
Nice.

>> No.1642792

>>1638402
They use heater coils as brake resistors. They work quite well and are easily replaceable if necessary.

>> No.1642798

>>1642792
can I use them to cook my instant noodles while I run parts?

>> No.1642808

>>1642798
electric kettle + big ceramic mug

throw noodle mix in, pour boiling water in, wait

>> No.1642892

ITT: people who buy shit tier machinery. Comparing Haas control to fanuc is laughable.

>> No.1642893

>>1642892
Let's see your machines, buddy.

>> No.1642922

>>1642893
I don't have any. I install and service them. But the ones I work on don't use household items like garage door springs or stove coils. We hold tolerances off less than 2μm over a meter

>> No.1642963

>>1642922
>>1642892
lol so you still dont understand what the "stove coil" actually is? also some /v/ tioer console wars happenin

>> No.1642968

>>1642963
>also some /v/ tier console wars happenin
Yeah, pretty laughable. I just like some things from manufacturers like Haas and Mazak, and others I don't like like DMG Mori and Datron. Don't get me wrong, they all have good and bad points, but I would rather work with the other machines than those.

>> No.1643006
File: 2.01 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643006

Hi gay bois I’m almost done with my handle for my hammer, small issue. I now need to bore the handle to hide drugs and shift the center of mass but I cant figure out how to chuck it up.

>knurled grip
I dont want to fuck it up
>taper
I don’t want to fuck it up and its not cut to fit a morse taper. Its sooo close though.
>threaded end
Could work but I have no steady rest so I cant support the part while drilling.

Any help would be appreciated.

>> No.1643020

>>1642963
It's a resistor. It's a cheap fucking resistor.

>> No.1643096

>>1643006
sounds like you should have been one of your first ops

>> No.1643099
File: 2.35 MB, 4032x3024, 3D255D69-59C9-4091-A1F4-7F44922B8D12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643099

>>1643096
My lathe passthrough is only .75 so if I wanted to do that it would have still been sticking out 11 inches. Any other thoughts? Turning down the OD for the head now.

>> No.1643105
File: 734 KB, 1024x768, 1537531831073.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643105

>>1643099
Is this your shotgun?

>> No.1643107
File: 46 KB, 600x602, completely random squid condom flying clouds.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643107

>>1643099

Just hold the knurled bit with shims protecting it from the jaws. Surely you have some aluminum foil around, yes?

>> No.1643110

>>1643006
>>1643099
steady rest bro

look around at all the stuff that came with it, replaces the tail stock so you can bore the end

>> No.1643116

>>1643110
I don’t own one or I would. Thrice I have tried to snag them on craigslist but no one is willing to separate it from their lathe.

>>1643107
No but I used painters tape and it seemed to work without damaging the knurl. Thanks sexi.

>>1643105
? I realize you are making fun of my bare feet but my toenails aren’t that long. What am I supposed to do, get cutting oil all over my shoes?

>> No.1643121

>>1643099
Looka dis fucking guy with no shoes and shit. Braver man than I because I am not stepping on a chip.

>> No.1643126

>>1643116
Time to make one? Your piece looks good btw.

>> No.1643133

>>1643121
Probably doesn't wear safety glasses either. Kinda surprised he's even wearing pants. Judging by the meat on his toes I bet most his clothes are covered in mayonnaise.

>> No.1643389

I know this isn't exactly metal cutting or machining, but I'm considering buying a tap disintegrater for removing broken taps, drills, and endmills. Anyone got any experience with them?

>> No.1643390

>>1643389
Nope, only seen the cheap ones the youtube guys bought from bang-good to review.

They looked like garbage to me, probably are.

>> No.1643391

>>1643390
Yeah, I wouldn't trust anything from chink sellers. The one I'm considering is an industrial one from electroarc.

>> No.1643427

>>1643391
sounds nice.

btw I guess I should have asked here, any experiences with those $100 sets of 81 block gauge block sets?

Absolutely need them for an inspection report (small shop/home shop).

>> No.1643446

>>1643126
Thank you.

Nonrelated but I have a milling attachment for my lathe but the clamp is just two bare machine screws and cant hold round stock. I need to drill my hammer head for the handle but I need to find a way to reliably hold it.

Using my lathe, and milling attachment- can yall think of anyway to cut a V down the length of a strip of .5” plate steel to act as a jaw for the milling attachment?

I dont own any V blocks yet or I would use them instead. In the past I cut oak jaws with my tablesaw but they crack apart when I get the clamping forces I really need to drill a 29/64 hole.

>> No.1643471
File: 2.19 MB, 4032x3024, 74C34ED4-B92C-41FA-A489-DD3033E2DFA7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643471

Im spending my sunday smoking pulled pork and running my lathe. Beautiful.

>> No.1643473

>>1643471
Patrician post

>> No.1643480

I want to buy a milling machine and convert it to CNC, My budget is $3k, any recommendations?

>> No.1643481

>>1643480
How big of work you wanna do? If you only wanna make small parts get a new sherline mill with the cnc ready package. Just need to get cam software and connect it. Shockingly precise, just small.

>> No.1643485

>>1643481

I want at least 12in of travel for Y axis before a vise is installed, X axis at least 16in

>> No.1643529

>>1642429
I've never taken apart a large modern CNC but I've had a small "fake" one at my home shop before most of you fags knew they existed. I'v also been in industrial environments all over this country and a couple overseas and they are not all heated so (you) can walk around with nothing but your feather boa. Some have doors that have not been closed in years. I know that CNC manufacturers sometimes provide spindle temp control to within 1/2 degree F. So if spindle temp is that important that 5-10 degrees is too much What the fuck are you gonna do in the morning when the spindle may be 40 degrees lower than spec. temp. I never made any claim to know anything I said "perhaps" taking the man at his word that there actual stove coils in said machine. So mister smart ass let's hear a more plausible reason for having stove coils in it????

>> No.1643538

>>1643006
>has enough brain cells to make a decent part
>did not think to bore it or match morse taper
something does not add up

>> No.1643589

>>1643427
I have a set from Shars, didn't check every single block but my .0001 indicator, mic, and the shop electric height gauge couldn't tell a difference between them and a mitituyo set. They ring together decently as well.

>> No.1643592

>>1643589
*wring

>> No.1643594

>>1643592
What, you don't use your gauge blocks as wind chimes?

>> No.1643625

Question, how do I go about levelling a cnc lathe, is it the same as a regular lathe?

>> No.1643630
File: 53 KB, 319x347, titan-cnc-machining-page.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643630

>>1643480
Haas. Just keep your tolerances withing an 1". And I ain't joking brah

>> No.1643635
File: 123 KB, 640x1136, BA4DB01F-39D6-4C8F-8ADE-21FB7A11D21D.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643635

>>1643538
>Implying machinists require high IQs.
Lmao even carpenters are more intelligent than machinists, go breathe some toxic vapors wage slave

>> No.1643640

>>1643635
Shop monkeys really fuck with the bell curve.

>> No.1643668
File: 96 KB, 750x1000, santec bed mill.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1643668

>>1643480
pic related (Santec bed mill, used for $3k) then add $1,500 worth of steppers/hybridstepperservos and a desktop PC.

might need ballscrews too

>> No.1643671

>>1643625
yes it's the same, though the machine may have linear scales and some kind of accuracy compensation shit going on

>> No.1643678

>>1643635
Damn that's impressively high considering how many black and mexican button pushers there are.

>> No.1643809

>>1643389
Oh fuck, that fucking machine is 1800lbs. Yeah, no fucking way I can move that shit. Fuck me why is everything I want so fucking heavy?

>> No.1643812

>>1643809
mass is stability, stability is good accuracy and high quality finishes. machine tools are just applied physics

this is like, machining 101 read a fucking book

>> No.1643816

>>1643812
>this is like, machining 101 read a fucking book
fuck off, I expected like 600lbs not maxing out my trailer heavy.

>> No.1643823

>>1643816
time to hire a rigger

>> No.1643839

>>1643446
can you chuck it in a 4jaw?

>> No.1643840

>>1643839
Yes I have a 3 jaw and 4 jaw.

>> No.1643843

>>1643389
I've used edm to remove broken taps and it works great but takes forever.

>>1643840
just grab the head with the 4 jaw and drill it with the tailstock then

>> No.1643854

>>1643843
I'm dumb, thank you very much. That is such an easier solution.

>> No.1643878

>>1643630
did a Haas tech piss in your coolant tank or something?

>> No.1643879

>>1643635
last I saw the machinist job IQ was around 105.

where did you get your data?

>> No.1643980

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmET9gcRd3k

>vac mat

>> No.1644017

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYzCxAptRlM

guy claims excetek is a great budget EDM

>> No.1644019

also, why are so many Mexican companies trying to outsource work to my small American business? Is this some kind of scam or something?

>heat treated D2 part about 2" x 1" x 2", need 5 of them
>tight tolerance bores, no other special considerations really

A digital boring head would earn it's keep pretty damn quick.

>> No.1644025
File: 15 KB, 313x259, 2 boxes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644025

>>1644019
what the fuck does this mean, does this mean something different in spanish?

>> No.1644092

>>1644025
maybe there is an identical dimension behind it or something

>> No.1644108

>>1643635
Yeah sure drywall guy goes above auto mechanic sure. Also nurses are total retards since AA started.

>> No.1644136

>>1644108
Que?

>> No.1644165

>>1644136
He's talking about the IQ rankings my taco friend.

>> No.1644172

>>1644165
Que?

>> No.1644207

Any idea if way oil will also work for ball screws? I'm doing a cnc upgrade and the machine isn't designed to have different oils in it. So it's ether active oiling or static grease. Oil is mobil vactra 2.

>> No.1644236

>>1644207
way oil should work on a ballscrew, don't grease the damn thing.

>> No.1644248

>>1644172
Nani?

>> No.1644251

Is there a type of plumbing pipe that has male and female threads on the same end? Does it have a name?

>> No.1644293

new gotteswinter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTeoIT-l68s

>>1644251
machine shop special

>> No.1644350

>>1644251
A bushing?

>> No.1644408

>>1644350
Holy shit I love you

>> No.1644454
File: 1.61 MB, 4032x3024, 8ECE37FD-02AF-4365-9ED5-006696F512D0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644454

Help my hammer is malfunctioning. It’s stuck in minority suspect mode.

>> No.1644524

>>1644236
Thanks.
What's wrong with grease though? Aside from the fact that you have to change it from time to time. Screws were greased from the factory.

>> No.1644835

>>1644454
hide the watermelon and 40 ouncers

>> No.1644961

Anybody know where I can get a free copy of mastercam?

>> No.1644967

>>1644961
only if it comes with a free chinese virus

>> No.1644973

>>1644967
I figured. I'm downloading the home version. The fanuc conversation sucks

>> No.1645007
File: 867 KB, 2048x1790, 3C0F7F4C-1008-43E7-BE6C-872D1E9E8800.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645007

Its done! How I do for a shit atlas lathe?
>pic 1/4

>> No.1645008
File: 2.17 MB, 4032x3024, FC663EEE-81AE-41B5-8444-4F47D0A9390F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645008

>>1645007
I made an aluminum head, brass head, and steel head so I can decide how much convincing I want.
>pic 2/4

>> No.1645009
File: 2.45 MB, 4032x3024, E1743EBA-2146-490F-BC07-FE7380EA8170.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645009

>>1645008
I did mar up the head while performing the final operation ):

3/4

>> No.1645010
File: 2.71 MB, 4032x3024, 215D523E-DEEA-4968-97D6-C60223042589.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645010

>>1645009
I think I’m better than 99% of the people in this thread change my mind

>> No.1645016
File: 471 KB, 1920x726, hammmor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645016

>>1645010
Here's the one I made years ago, I like the proportions of mine better and the knurling is nicer.

>> No.1645018

>>1645016
Show base of handle plz. If not hollowed mine is objectively superior.

>> No.1645022
File: 735 KB, 1033x1366, dsfargdge.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645022

The endcap is a press-fit, but yeah she's balanced.

>> No.1645024

>>1645022
God damn it. Fine mines still better because it has 3 heads instead of 2. Checkmate atheist.

>> No.1645025

>>1645024
You got me, I still haven't made a plastic head to compliment the brass and soft steel head.

>> No.1645028

>>1645025
I have some delrin in the right diameter I’m just feeling lazy. I may also just cement some 8oz leather on the face of the steel insert since I really dont need a steel head for a machinist hammer anyway. Either way its a problem for another day.

>> No.1645029

>>1645028
Leather would be pretty awesome, I might do plastic, leather, and lead. Lead is pretty good as a hammer material.

>> No.1645030

>>1644967
>>1644961
wait, is solidsquad chinese virus hackers? fuck i shoul;d have never got 2019 i dont ecven like 2019

>> No.1645034
File: 617 KB, 1920x1080, sexagon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645034

why isnt your hammer made from the gods chosen shape the hexagon?

>> No.1645037

>>1645030
>>1644967
>>1644961
Can anyone confirm biruses from solidsquad? I got X9 and it's been working okay...

>> No.1645059

>>1645034
because the Earth is round.

>> No.1645069
File: 112 KB, 857x744, 20190331_132344[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645069

>>1645010
Not bad at all.

>> No.1645070

>>1645037
I'm sure it has some kind of Chicom backdoor anon.

If you want to engage in risky behavior then pay for an antivirus or use an airgapped PC that you don't connect to the internet.

>> No.1645096

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCspTGlFpag

>> No.1645135

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSW_7zW7xFw

>> No.1645212

>>1645070
To that extent if you are designing something in a large company don't use an outside cloud. Fusion360 rep tried to tell me that their system was 100% safe until I started asking how that was possible.

>> No.1645214

I bought myself some WNMG08 inserts because I'm cheap and they each have 6 cutting edges to ruin and because TOT said he likes them, and they've been cutting pretty hot so I looked at their recommended speeds and feeds. Apparently I should be running them at my lathe's maximum 2500RPM up to about 50mm diameter work, nevermind the 25mm stuff I've been cutting, with ~0.3mm/rev and 0.5-4mm DOC. Does that sound reasonable or did I fuck up my numbers?

>> No.1645215

>>1645214
I cut most of my stuff really slowly and way below the recommended speeds and feeds. You just have to do what you gotta do.

>> No.1645217

>>1645214
as long as the part isn't heating up it's probably fine

>> No.1645220

>>1645215
>>1645217
The chips were coming off yellow and turning blue, and the part was probably around 80C peak going by hand feel. It wasn't that big a deal until the chips started not breaking. I was cutting slow, ~500rpm at 25mm D, with a pretty heavy cut/rev to make it not take forever, like 1-1.5mm/rev. I'll try something like 0.4/rev at 1500 if my lathe doesn't fly away.

>> No.1645222

Anyone know how fine of a finish is 63RA ???

>>1645220
well don't make the part turn into a noodle and fuck something up

>> No.1645225

>>1645220
What material? If stainless, hardened tool steel, or inconel then that's good. If regular steel then adjust the doc

>> No.1645228

>>1645222
63 is an okay finish, you'll still feel ridges with your nail but they should be small and uniform. Unless your tools are all chipped,I wouldn't worry too much

>> No.1645231

>>1645225
It was regular hot rolled and cold rolled. DOC was about 1mm. Was also using a bit of oil, not flood.

>> No.1645233

>>1645228
really?

Looking online (google sucks so bad since they started censoring everything) it looked like a super fine like surface ground finish.

I don't have a $1,500 surface roughness tester either. I've already started lapping the important surfaces, this makes me feel like a fucking genius for doing lapping I learned on youtube.

>> No.1645235
File: 129 KB, 774x426, hows my lapping.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645235

>>1645233

>> No.1645236

>>1645228
Oh it seems you may be correct. Tubalcain shows his roughness gauge on here, 63 isn't too bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLPIKnAwQoc

>> No.1645237

>>1645231
spin it up to about 800RPM at least, yes the ~400-500 range is more comfortable but the benefits of speeding up to more like 800 far outweigh it.

>> No.1645242

>>1645233
>1500 dallaridoos
Baka

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Industrial-Scientific-Surface-Roughness-Comparators/zgbs/industrial/401601011

>> No.1645246

>>1645242
Yep the old subjective af plates.

I meant a real measurement device that I can depend on.

>> No.1645260

>>1645233
Lol no, surface grinding is like 16-24.
>Lapping
Anon no, that's like 4 or less. 63 is nothing to think about. Most times when it's listed it's more "this can't be rough" "I want it to look nice" and that sort of thing. They're not going to actually check the absolute finish.

>> No.1645266

>>1645260
This is a test part they will absolutely check it.
doesn't matter now though, it's part mirror part mill marks that you can't feel with a fingernail.

Sides surface ground (btw don't fucking surface grind 316 stainless, especially without coolant I almost fucked this thing up).

>> No.1645272

>>1645266
>after one pass it's so fucking hot it will burn you
>another pass and it instantly hardens and sucks the wheel into it

sheeitt

>> No.1645337

What the fuck should I make I can’t think of anything

>> No.1645358

>>1645337
>dildo
>gun
>tools

>> No.1645372

>>1645337
tapered mandrel?

those things are expensive as shit to just buy

>> No.1645390
File: 19 KB, 693x517, garrote handles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645390

>>1638309
I don't have any machining tools but I want to get two pieces of metal like the handles of pic related for a cosplay. /cgl/ is full of retards so I thought you guys would know best. Is there some household object that looks like those? Is there a website or some shit that can custom make small metal parts like this? Thanks

>t. autistic hitman cosplayer

>> No.1645410

Large discrepancy between measuring a very shallow circular pocket--between calipers and inside micrometer like 5 thou.

It measures perfectly on size with the ID tongs on my calipers, but out of spec oversize with the ID micrometer.

>> No.1645415

>>1645358
The only things I have made are tools I need to make something for outside the shop.

I dont have any steel I would trust for a gun chamber right now, sadly.

>> No.1645449
File: 100 KB, 500x500, 1526128443764.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645449

>>1645415
charging handle knob extension?

>> No.1645450
File: 3.02 MB, 4032x3024, 11EF8D83-BAB1-45CD-95C9-75D226A83458.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645450

>>1645449
I already have one :) maybe a custom compensator!

>> No.1645453

>>1645450
Sounds neat, try making one of those linear compensators they came out with a while back.

Not sure whatever happened with those, maybe the ATF classified them as suppressors or something. Better check first.

>> No.1645454

>>1645453
Oh no I want to make a ‘loudener’. You know those ridiculous comps that intentionally blow out the eardrums of the people at the table next to you

>> No.1645458

>>1645266
I meant they're not going to check it with a fancy tester unless it's some kind of special gasket surface. 63RA just means not running around a finish pass at 100IPM.
>>1645410
Trust the mic unless it's been abused.

>> No.1645506

>lady at the deli asks how thick I want my cheese sliced
>about to say "around .060"
>"uhh like 1/16th of an inch"
>"how much is that?"
>"uhh like a potato chip"
anyone else know this feel?

>> No.1645507

>>1645458
Yeah it's almost impossible for it to be wrong, it's one of the cheap SPI internal mics with two carbide pins that you stick into the hole, with the pins touching the sides I took it out and measured across the pins with my good high precision micrometer, it's what it says.

Already making a new part, got it roughed out already, time to really nail those dimensions again.

>> No.1645531

a 4 flute is a lot better for stainless than I had anticipated, its one of the honed edge tools for hard materials too.

>> No.1645543

daily reminder to use the biggest size endmill you can get away with because those tiny fuckers shred the corners immediately and then your walls have a taper

>> No.1645608

>>1645506
"Haha yeah these have to be shimmed pretty accurately"
What like within .002?
"O-oh no I meant like 1mm"
Iktf

>> No.1645610

>>1645531
Compared to what? You should only be using 4 flutes on stainless unless it's one of those guchi speciality ones. Are you the six flute guy? Those are for hard tool steels and shit, not something soft like stainless.

>> No.1645611

>>1645610
5 flute is pretty awesome in stainless

>> No.1645628

>>1645610
>>1645611
yeah had good experience with that 6 flute too, cut silently and left a good finish.

Do not slot with it, not even 75 thou deep, snapped right the fuck off and slung the broken carbide into my part requiring dropping the depth down ~10 thou and re-doing every surface.

>> No.1645649

>>1645628
More flutes = HSM or you're fucked

>> No.1645708

>>1645231
>>1645237
I tried 900 and 1250 on 50mm hot rolled steel, 0.04 to 0.5mm/rev, mostly 0.5 to 1mm DOC. The surface finish always saw massive improvement, although some came out better than others, few of them mirror-like, but chip clearance, especially the lack of breaking and sometimes nesting were issues. The best results were probably at 1250RPM with around 0.1mm/rev, but the problem was that I have no idea what was happening as I couldn't see shit, only the material disappearing from the stock and sometimes getting briefly burned by chips that were flying everywhere. I guess I should've gone even faster for the chip breaker to work properly with a wider feed range, but above 1000RPM shit's spooky.

>> No.1645724
File: 1.75 MB, 4032x3024, 4F6DF9C9-09FE-4A16-9655-1D59D8B1EA0B.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1645724

i made a stirling engine in my high schools machine shop

>> No.1645739

>>1645708
you don't need to run er that fast then

>> No.1645875

unless you are afraid the part might throw is there any reason not to run as fast as your tools will allow?

>> No.1645881

>>1645875
Yes, short answer is process reliability. Running lights out and stuff. I'd rather something run 10% slower than "maximum MRR" so that the roughing tools survive instead of breaking 5 minutes after I've locked the doors and the machine either breaks every subsequent tool or stops (if the machine is lucky enough to have a tool probe) and sits there with a dumb message on the screen all night.

>> No.1645918

>>1645875
Tool life. Yeah it COULD be 20 seconds faster but you have to weigh if that's worth changing the tool 3 times as often.

>> No.1645930

>>1645918
>as fast as your tools will allow
Not the guy that originally asked the question, but I took this as acceptable tool life/maximum MRR. You can be very aggressive but still not ruin tools every two seconds, the margin of error just gets smaller and smaller. Coolant not concentrated enough or coolant pressure a little low? RIP. Saw cut a little bigger? RIP.

>> No.1645947

>>1645708
try 700-800 rpm, 8 thou per rev, 100 thou deep.

should be pretty fast for that, but it might just work wonders on your machine.

You aren't using negative tooling are you?

>> No.1646090

>>1645947
It's a WNMG08 on MWLNR2020 holder, I think it's not true negative, but it's mostly negative.

>> No.1646094

>>1646090
how many horsepower is the machine?

>> No.1646095

>>1646094
About 5.5

>> No.1646098

>>1646095
Oh nevermind that's surely enough. thought you were the guy with a benchtop atlas or something.

Wait, that's a real lathe and you aren't peeling off 100 thou per side at least?

>> No.1646099

>>1646098
The things I was making did not need it, and I was trying to figure out how to get good finish.

>> No.1646101

>>1646099
k

>> No.1646193

>>1640782
I'm pretty sure its a faceplate off a cheap woodlathe that's been converted into a ball turning attachment

>> No.1646197

>>1643471
what make lathe is this, I have the same one in my shop at the moment that I have to start rescraping for a friend soon. No plates on it anywhere and the previous owner thought it was a southbend but couldnt say for sure

>> No.1646214

>>1646197
The flat ways make it look like it's an Atlas/Craftsman.

>> No.1646225

Damn this robot is pretty sweet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuTPwjSoZ_c

>> No.1646233

>emailed xometry this morning
>already 1:30pm and no response

well shit

>> No.1646263

>>1646197
>>1646214
Yes Atlas. Hobbiest machine even when it was new but its still fun as fuck.

>> No.1646272

>>1646263
Does a hobbyist make money with machines?

>> No.1646304

I got that 31/32" prentice drill with the 3/4" shank.

Drilling 7075t6, 1.75" deep, 2000 RPM at 50"/min. The machine can go faster but I'm getting worried about snapping that drill right half in two.

Should I go faster?

>> No.1646305

>>1646304
no and don't say i didn't tell ya so

>> No.1646306

>>1646305
I guess it is decently fast enough as it is, I think I'll make it take deeper pecks though.

>> No.1646342

should I be good to drill about .2" in stainless steel with a 4 flute end mill?

>> No.1646352

>>1646342
on a lathe in a drill chuck?

>> No.1646376

>>1646304
Jesus no. The time savings would be almost nothing.

>>1646342
Are you just making a flat bottom on a predrilled hole? We need more info.

>> No.1646463

>>1646272
You can, I don’t. I buy materials and turn them into shavings.

>> No.1646497

>>1646342
No.

Stainless with absolutely destroy your tools, you might get away with 200 thou with a rigid setup and a 4 flute but 100 thou is more reasonable

also depends on the grade of stainless

>> No.1646512

https://humboldt.craigslist.org/tls/d/fortuna-milling-machine/6925628327.html

Does this look like a decent beginner mill?

>> No.1646515

>>1646512
round column kinda sucks, you might be happier with a knee mill or a used tormach

>> No.1646538

>>1646515
Yeah, I'd go square column if the world were perfect, but it seems like a steal of a deal with all that tooling. If I ever outgrow the machine, I could probably sell it on it's own and recoup nearly all the money--or at least that's how I feel at the price it's going for. With this in mind, is buying it a pretty good deal?
It's all pulley driven, so no weird electronics or a gearhead to work on if there's a drive problem.

>> No.1646593

>>1646538
the vise sucks but will probably work

>> No.1646678

>>1644025
I know I'm several days later but meybe you are right and it is a translation problem.
in spanish, these kind of things, I think in english are called Pockets, are called "cajeras" (something like boxers).
So, my interpretation of your pick would be.
there is a screw here, and there is a pocket for it's head.
the O of the pocket must be 0,875+-0,0005.
I can't guess the measuring units.

>> No.1646682

>>1646678
counterbored through-hole

>> No.1646723

Anyone here ever do wood turning on a metal lathe? If so did it work well and what did your tools look like.

>> No.1646734

>>1646723
yes, it sucked.

normal carbide insert tools, go slow and be prepared for the chips to rust anything they're left on as well as the log to slip and fall out of the chuck and break shit/you.

wood lathes have a screw type drive, if it's a thin stick then maybe you can get away with it, make sure you have a center in the end though.

>> No.1646737

>>1646734
Oh I have a wood lathe too but I don't have a chuck for it and I want to make some bowls.

I don't feel like rusting my metal lathe though );. I wonder how hard it would be to machine my own chuck for the wood lathe.

>> No.1646739

>>1646737
coarse thread screw you screw the wood onto?

>> No.1646750

>>1646739
Yeah my plan for my metal lathe was to cut my wood stock long and drill wood screws into it through a face plate. I could possibly just make a face plate for my wood lathe though, what is it really, a morse taper with a disk with holes in it?I wonder if I could get away with cutting a morse taper with a mandrel on the end, and then cut my disk and interference it+draw screw on the disk

>> No.1646755

New thread

boards.4channel.org/diy/thread/1646751

>> No.1646915

>>1646755
is this for real