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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1640200 No.1640200 [Reply] [Original]

Okay I had a guy come by today to check my a/c that has a hard time cooling the house in the summer. He advised that the refrigerant was fine but recommended that I get extra insulation and redo my ducts which would cost thousands. I sent him packing. He left his gauges behind hooked up to my unit. It would appear that the refrigerant is low according to the specs on the heat pump (picture to follow). So is he trying to scam me or what? Is PSI the same as PSIG?

>> No.1640202
File: 989 KB, 1080x2220, Screenshot_20190701-200055_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640202

Guages

>> No.1640203

>>1640202
Should read specs

>> No.1640226

>>1640200
psig is gage pressure, not including normal atmospheric pressure. It's simply psia minus 14.7 psi. So, for example, you're gage reads 10psi. That represents 10 psig. The "true" pressure is normal atmospheric pressure, which is 14.7 psi plus the 10 psi on the gage, or 24.7 psi.

99/100 times psi refers to gage pressure (psig)

>> No.1640231

>>1640200
I'm not an expert, but low-side pressure seems OK, since that would give 46F or 7C in normal units refrigerant temperature, which is OK.

>> No.1640241

>>1640231
You know what, check your filter.
And yeah, they typically write max. acceptable pressures there.

Also, give gauges back, Tyrone.

>> No.1640297

>>1640202
It shows you what temp your fucking coil is at right on those stolen gauges, do you want your shit frozen?

Have you even checked your attic/ducts? How do you know you're not cooling the attic with leaking ducts? I had the same issue a year ago, a splitter box had completely separated from moisture.

>> No.1640303

>>1640200
There's a million and one reasons why your system may be having trouble cooling when it gets really hot, and the main reason I see is poor construction which can only be remedied by things like what that guy mentioned and AREN'T HIS FAULT. If I had to guess, he probably mentioned that work the same way I do - I NEVER try to sell a job like that and only ever dissuade people from doing work that won't get a good bang for buck factor, but every once in awhile that's all some asshole hears and now I'm a scam artist even though I consistently undercut my competition by half. He could have been trying to sell you pie in the sky, but I'm pretty good at picking up red flags and I haven't found any with this guy yet. If he found nothing wrong with your system, his suggestions may very well be the only things you can do to improve it and as a person who gives this news all the time I rarely see people take it well.

I'm not sure where you are or what atmospheric pressure it was there or what outside/inside temp was. These change drastically even just over 24hrs and if you're one of those homeowners who reads 150/300 on the model plate and sees different on the gauges and freaks out, well... I've dealt with enough people like you to already not want to help you.

For fucks sake, call the guy and give him his gauges back. Then if you actually want help with your system be ready to diagnose it together because now YOU'RE the monkey on the ground doing what we say and getting the diagnostics we need. I could probably figure a lot out just from the model plate given, but then so could you and you clearly have only used that information to point fingers like an asshole. Please tell me if it's a split system or package unit, heat pump or gas, is the filter clean? how long have you been there, has it always had a problem, how old is it, have you been the only one to live there with it or may a slob with pets have lived there at some point?

>> No.1640384

>>1640200
It’s only 70* outside and your complaining? And what tech would leave leave his damn gauges, let alone still connected to the unit?

>> No.1640390

>>1640231
>>1640297
The pink ring shows state change temperature at a given psi not actual temperature. It's how you calculate superheat and subcooling which is the only way to actually diagnosis a refrigerant charge. In this case lets say the suction line temp was 54 degrees then superheat would be 8 degrees as an example(difference between boiling point and actual temp). Superheat is how far above boiling you are and subcooling is how far below condensing.

Pressure only is not a great indicator of system health but by looking at those gauges I would say it doesn't look low. If he recommended re doing ductwork it may be that you don't have enough return or your ductwork is poorly done and leaky. Either way don't be a cunt and give the guy back his manifold.

>> No.1640517
File: 30 KB, 640x480, dsc033902.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640517

>>1640390
How important is super-heat (difference of temperatures in evaporator, right)?
Can I measure super-heat using just two thermal-couple thermometers clamped on two pipes that go to the evaporator? (on mini-splits, which have all metering devices inside the outdoor box, and indoor unit is just simple coil).

>> No.1640518 [DELETED] 

You have excess of freon.
Remove yellow left hose, open left yellow valve.
Then, open left side valve and close it once pressure is 50 PSI

>> No.1640540

>>1640303
AC fag if you’re still here I have a question:

What’s a good brand of gauges? Don’t need pro level, but if I’m going to spend $50-$60 from HF or Amazon and they only last for one job, I would rather spend $100 to have a set that will last a few years for automotive and maybe a few home checks.

>tfw I know my dad had tons of nice gauges and meters but never got any of the good stuff when he died
I got like 5 fucking fishtapes though

>> No.1640546

>>1640517
Your temperature for superheat should be taken on the larger of the 2 lines at the condenser. You need a pressure gauge and the correct refrigerant chart to calculate superheat from there. In OP's pic a chart is not necessary since the saturation temp is printed on the gauge face along with the corresponding pressure. Superheat is the difference between the temperature that the refrigerant boils and the actual temperature. If you're mini split is an inverter you need to make sure that it's running 100% before you check.

>> No.1640554

>>1640540
Top tier brands are JB(Just Better) and Yellow Jacket. You can get a 3 port of either for $100 if you look around not including whatever fittings you want for your hoses. Imperial and NRP are both a little cheaper but work just as well. 4 ports are considerably more expensive than 3 ports and unnecessary unless you need a 3/8 connection. The manifold in OPs pic is a Yellow Jacket Titan which are pretty much the best model from the best company but they're over $200 new from the vendors. If they ship with hoses they will be open ended which make a huge fucking mess so you'll want to buy low loss adapters/ball valves for them or hoses with them installed

>> No.1640559

>>1640518
https://www.coolingpost.com/world-news/ohio-man-jailed-for-venting-refrigerant/

>> No.1640617

>>1640546
Fuck, I meant sub-cool than.
In case of mini split, you can't measure high side.

>> No.1640623

>>1640617
You can measure sub cool if there's a liquid pressure port before the metering device but typically mini splits we're more concerned with superheat

>> No.1640634

>>1640623
Now I'm absolutely confused.
Super-heat is difference between chart temperature and real temperature of evaporator (low side), right?
And sub-cool is difference between chart temperature and real temperature of condenser (high side).

So, in order to measure it on mini split, I connect low side gauge to a port, and I take thermometer and measure temperature on suction or discharge?

>> No.1640638

>>1640634
To get superheat you need a gauge on the low side and temp on low side near the port. To get subcool you need a gauge on the high side(discharge or liquid) and temp on liquid line(after condenser coil but before cap tube, txv, exv)

>> No.1640640

>>1640303
>There's a million and one reasons
No there's not you fucking faggot

>inb4 it's a figure of speech
Shut the fuck up pussy

>>1640200
Your ducts are probably full of shit and holes, I bet you have flex duct too faggot. Don't give the gauges back fuck that retard, that'll teach his ass to be more careful next time fucking dumbass.

>> No.1640646

>>1640638
>To get superheat you need a gauge on the low side and temp on low side near the port.
Ok.
So, in case of mini-split, that is gas-side (thick pipe) of evaporator.
> To get subcool you need a gauge on the high side(discharge or liquid) and temp on liquid line(after condenser coil but before cap tube, txv, exv)
Ok. But I guess it is impossible to measure, without soldering port inside the box. Switching to heat mode won't work, since you would be measuring hot gas pressure, not liquid.
Thanks dude.
Is there a method to know if system is low on refrigerant without using gauge?

>> No.1640666

>>1640646
You can get a rough idea by taking temperature differential across the evap coil or return and supply air. Should be 15-20 degrees difference between in and out when running 100%

>> No.1640675

>>1640666
>15-20 degrees
F or C?

>> No.1640678
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1640678

>>1640559
>>1640518

The absolute madman

>> No.1640687

>>1640675
Farenheit

>> No.1640793

>>1640200
>way too much refrigerant in there. just put your mouth on the port to the smaller line and depress the shrader. suck it all right out. cool you right down quick. then quickly light a smoke

>> No.1640804
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1640804

>>1640793
Mmmm freon

>> No.1640807

What a fucking retard for leaving his gauges. Unless OP is an asshole and kicked him out and yelled at the guy to the point where he said fuck this, ill just buy new ones and let this asshole get gassed by refrigerant trying to remove them

>> No.1640833

>analog gauges
lmao nice antique grandpa.

Anyway, he's probably right. Though I hope he did more than just check your charge.
ACs are 50% the charge, 100% airflow. It's all about air fuckin flow.
Dirty filter, shitty leaking ducts, blocked registers, shitty run down blower, blower fan blades clogged with dust and shit, evap coil clogged with shit, dirty condenser, bushes and shit around condenser, dog pissed on condenser so much the heat fins are literally gone, condenser fan shitting out, leaking windows/drafts, windows with no blinds, tons of electronics producing unexpected heat loads, so on and so forth.

fuck ur charge. look at airflow/temp rise in home. it's almost always airflow or other heat build up.

>> No.1640892
File: 5 KB, 183x103, Screenshot_20190701200117_Gallery-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1640892

>>1640200

>> No.1640920

>>1640807
>high side still connected
>ops face when he tries to take it off and gets hit with 325psi of liquid

>> No.1640921

>>1640892
I had a real good laugh. Thanks m8!

>> No.1640935

>>1640833

>analog gauges
>lmao nice antique grandpa

u wot

>> No.1641013

>>1640921
>I had a real good laugh. Thanks m8!

you have to go back

>> No.1641052

>>1640935
Don't mind him, he just bought into the digital manifold meme

>> No.1641685
File: 267 KB, 750x537, 1562247491214.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641685

Are these Mini-split AC powered by solar panels legit?
Or just a scam?

>> No.1641714

>>1641685
Mini splits are legit. But solar power - idk

>> No.1641740

>>1640640
>guy was right and provided sound advice
>keep his gauge
Nigger teir thinking here.

>> No.1641743
File: 4 KB, 310x163, Doubt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641743

>>1641685
Doubtful the solar panels can power the ac.

>> No.1641748

>>1641743
Well, they can. Depends on AC power, obviously.
5000 BTU will consume around 450W.
9000 BTU will consume around 850W

I think this would need 1500W panel to run smoothly. Plus some sort of battery buffer.

>> No.1641750

>>1640640
You seem upset.

>> No.1641751

>>1640675
Kelvin

>> No.1641753

>>1641751
So Celsius.

>> No.1641755
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1641755

>>1640833
>50% + 100%

>> No.1641756

>>1641755
Air conditioner has efficiency over 1*, so it is OK

>> No.1641759

>>1640640
>don’t give the gauges back
Exactly what do you propose OP do then dickwad? He obviously doesn’t know how to remove them.
>4 years later
>”oh look honey this house is for sale right by your moms house”
>”oh really? what’s it say?”
>”it’s got three bedrooms, two baths, and a set of weather worn gauges to measure your ac pressures?!”

>> No.1641773
File: 40 KB, 1098x1008, pepegas-410a.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641773

>>1641759
> He obviously doesn’t know how to remove them.
You unscrew them slowly, so all gas flies away

>> No.1641781
File: 36 KB, 1098x1008, 1562254435921.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641781

>>1641773
Fixed this for you.
R12 is the patricians refrigerant.
Fuck normies
Fuck jannies
and most of all fuck the ozone.

>> No.1641784 [DELETED] 
File: 40 KB, 1098x1008, pepegas-12.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641784

>>1641781
R12 was in white tanks for white people

>> No.1641786
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1641786

>>1641781
R12 was in white tanks.

>> No.1641789
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1641789

>>1641786
holy shit you're right.

>> No.1641795

>>1641789
Where can I buy real R12? Last time I got chinked and got R406A instead, since charge wasn't quite right.

>> No.1641801

>>1641795
It's been illegal in the west since 96 and everywhere else since 2010. You may be able to find some from a small time mechanic. I knew a guy that still had a 30lb bottle of it about 10 years ago.

>> No.1641803

>>1641795
I have about a dozen 14oz cans and a bottle with a few pounds in it.
I also have some oil charge mini-cans with R-12 propellant for use in R-12 systems.
I 'may' have a couple of cans with red dye and sealer too, don't recall.
The last time I checked, real R-12 was well over $100 for a single can.
These are all saved from when R-12 was legal to purchase.
I noticed a sudden increase in availability of "virgin R-12" popping up on eBay.
I was suspicious when I saw it.
I doubt you'll find anyone wanting to sell any if they have it.
I'm saving mine because we (my family) has several older trucks with the original AC systems.

>> No.1641810

>>1641801
But where can I get new one. Chinks still have CFC-12, but semi legally.
>>1641803
>I noticed a sudden increase in availability of "virgin R-12" popping up on eBay.
That is R406A or hydrocarbon mix in cans which say R12.
R406A is good tho, I don't know why it isn't used more often.

>> No.1641818

>>1641795
>Where can I buy real R12?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/R-12-Refrigerant-3-Du-Pont-Freon-Cans-Usa-made-Genuine-12oz-Cans-R12/222541511616

>> No.1641941
File: 580 KB, 968x832, ball valve.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1641941

>>1641740
>>1641759
>hurr durr, durr hurr how will he remove them? only a technician would be capable of doing it correctly

No wonder nobody likes you fucking hacks, nothing but fear-mongering over dumbass shit.

>>1640200
Get some gloves and some eye protection, turn the unit off and unscrew the hoses from your unit as fast as you can (if they have pic related at the ends of the hoses close them first), don't get scared pussy; once you've started follow through completely. Once you got the gauges off unscrew the hoses from the manifold just a little to release any trapped refrigerant. Enjoy your new gauge set. Now if you want to be anal about it do it this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJmZHzLwqbs

Don't forget to put the caps back on

>> No.1641948

>>1640200
>>1641941
The guage situation is an obvious trap. He is not qualified to remove them legally, WHEN he comes back he's bringing an EPA agent, as whatever it was that OP said, was worth losing $200 guages for the satisfaction of satisfaction.

>> No.1641951

>>1641941
>Get some gloves and some eye protection,
Why? Freon isn't that cold.
But I don't know, I can clean hot soldering iron with my fingers, so I don't feel a fuck with my fingertips.

>> No.1641954
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1641954

>>1641948
Hmmm... Went freon, call EPA agent and call HVAC nigger back.

>> No.1641957

>>1641954
>Went
vent*

Also, pretend you dindu nuffin

>> No.1641970

>>1641951
You're correct, refrigerant isn't some magical eternally cold substance. However, if liquid refrigerant comes into contact with your skin the rapid evaporation can cause instantaneous frostbite.

>> No.1641983

>>1641970
Just keep in mind that R410a boils at -48C at atmospheric pressure I guess.
But still, I don't think that 1 second exposure to such temps can cause frostbite, unless you're retard and decided to spay entire hand with this shit.

>> No.1641985

>>1641941
>turn the unit off and unscrew the hoses from your unit as fast as you can
Make sure the valves on the manifold are closed.
If hose-end valves are provided, close them
With the unit running, remove the gas side connector at the service port on the condenser unit.
>blue hose connects to larger line
>low side has lowest pressure when unit is running.
Turn unit off.
Wait a minute for high side pressure to equalize.
>as the refrigerant spreads back through the system, the high side pressure goes down.
Remove liquid line red hose at service port on the condenser unit.
Replace service port caps and turn unit back on.

>> No.1642000

>>1641985
Why can't you just remove gauges?
I'm in thirdworld, and everybody simply removes suction side (mini-splits) and that is it.

>> No.1642013

>>1642000
You can. It's not that big of a deal.
Just remove them quickly and put the caps on.
I gave that process to make it as easy on the hands as possible.
>manifold valves open - refrigerant is in the manifold and may be stored in the yellow hose if it has a sealing end.
>remove blue while running for lower pressure, ergo - less refrigerant lost.
>remove the red while not running for same reason.

I connect and disconnect many times per day so I just hook up and unhook.
The instructions were for newbies.

>> No.1642020

>>1642013
Makes sense.

>> No.1642029

>>1641941
>hurr durr anybody can remove them
>goes on to give detailed explanation not even mentioning valve position
>bitches about hacks in industry while simultaneously proving my point about
OP not removing them himself

Lol goddamn! I have never seen a post so bereft of self awareness. I’m not a technician but I know enough to know OP shouldn’t be fucking with it and getting advice from people like you. Go be a fucking retard somewhere else.

>> No.1642035

>>1642029
>goes on to give detailed explanation not even mentioning valve position
Real hack here. Does it matter? You need just to unscrew it afap, so you don't get much freon out.
Freon is expensive, so don't vent it.

>> No.1642049

>>1641052
>using analog gauges which require you to either use an app to calculate SH/SC or get out a PT chart (if you use the temps on the analogs themselves you are a hack, that shit isn't even remotely right.)
>also bust out a temp reading device to put on line set

>or just hook up your all in one gauges that calculate it for you instantly

Digital or bust you poorfag hack

>> No.1642054

>>1642049
Nobody I know that's been doing HVAC more than 5 years uses digital gauges. They're bulky and less durable. A lot of our new guys buy them after a couple years and then leave them in the truck after 12 months. The bluetooth setups that connect to your phone are more trouble than they're worth.

I'm not sure what you mean by the temps on gauge faces being inaccurate but all the ones I've used for R22, R410A, R134A, R407C, and R438A have been right on

>> No.1642057

>>1642049
the only reason to bust out the digis is to impress a no-nothing, high-value costumer or your boss when he asks what kind of tools you have

>> No.1642058

>>1641985
>>1642029
And just like that all the retarded hacks come out.
>muh manifold valves
You do that shit when you're putting on the gauges not taking them off fucking brain dead fucktards. If you're just barely closing them after you had them on for all of that time you've already fucked up.

> I’m not a technician but I know enough to know OP shouldn’t be fucking with it
Fuck off retard

>> No.1642105

>>1642058
Non-hvac nigger has a question. How do you connect gauges? Let's say to a mini split, which has only one port, low side suction.
Are you supposed to just screw on the hose without caring about air inside of the hose, or you're supposed to open low side valve, so when you connect freon purges air from gauges and it doesn't get mixed with freon.

I mean, that much air won't hurt (I know people who had installed their mini splits without purging, nor vacuuming and they kept working for years), but...

>> No.1642111

>>1642105
>Are you supposed to just screw on the hose without caring about air inside of the hose
yes
the pressure in your hose will be 0
unless youre in a freezer or vacuum, the suction side of the system will have enough pressure to prevent wayward air from entering the system

>> No.1642115

>>1642111
Won't gasses mix anyway?

>> No.1642116
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1642116

>>1642054
>Nobody I know that's been doing HVAC more than 5 years uses digital gauges
everyone in my area who does it for a living it uses it or is too new to have the cash to buy them. or they're hacks do don't give a fuck.
>They're bulky and less durable.
they are more bulky for sure, not terribly so. as for durability, I've dropped mine from roofs, from attics, dropped onto sidewalks, from the back of my truck, so on and so forth. pretty fucking durable in my mind.
>The bluetooth setups that connect to your phone are more trouble than they're worth.
I've seen those but never seen them in use. cost a shit ton too. doubt I will ever go to that. fuck handing my phone over to a client to show them what I am reading on their system.
>I'm not sure what you mean by the temps on gauge faces being inaccurate
5 to 8 degrees. that's how much all of them are off. all of them. the scale they use simply does not work, they round it up to fit on the round scale along side the psig. 5-8 degree is way, way too much. all those tell you is either the SH/SC is good or it's completely wrong. it's either at 3 or 11. it's either 12 or 20. what a fucking worthless reading they are if all they can tell you is "it might be good, can't know for sure"
digital or bust.
>>1642057
the only reason to use them is if you want to do your job right and not pull out 2 different tools and your phone/PT chart. one tool that does it all, accurately. nothing beats it.

>> No.1642118

>>1642115
unless you have a specific set of gauges and hoses for every refrigerant, trace amounts in your hoses will mix. Not enough to worry about unless you’re blowing full loads in. Just vent your hoses after you use em and it won’t matter

>> No.1642124

>>1642116
I can't believe you called me a poorfag hack then had the nerve to post a picture of a Fieldpiece set

>> No.1642130

>>1642124
cheaper then other digital gauges but like most of FPs line up they do well. why spend 900 dollars when the 400 dollar ones work just as well?
I do residential so there's nothing that set up and some spare hoses can't do.

>> No.1642144

>>1642130
Just giving you some shit. When I started everyone at my shop called it Fieldpiece-of shit but they have come a long way in the last 10-15 years. I actually really like their manometers and draft generators.

>> No.1642146

>>1642144
eh, no one in my area bats an eye at them, easily one of the more popular brands here. I own a fluke multimeter and a FP. I use the FP daily simply because it has a magnet on it so I can slap it on ACs/furnaces and read it easily.

>> No.1642154

What about chink gauges?
I think my mini-split is low on freon (a little bit), and I want to add some.
Also, where can I get small R410A cylinders, I need no more than 280 grams I guess.

>> No.1642279

>>1642154
As long as they have a close to accurate gauge on them they're probably going to be fine for your use. I wouldn't trust them for a pressure test or pulling vacuum though. Since you used grams for a weight measurement I don't know the laws regarding refrigerant handling in your country. In the US I've never seen R410A in a can less than 5 lbs. Enforcement has gotten very lazy in the US about handling licenses and you can order the shit online from a number of places including Ebay.

>> No.1642380

>>1640200
What temp is your suction and liquid lines? Pressure alone doesn’t mean shit without your temp readings.

Also, call his company and tell him you have his gauges, you fucking nigger.

>> No.1642399

>>1642279
>Since you used grams for a weight measurement I don't know the laws regarding refrigerant handling in your country.
Nobody gives a shit about it. I just don't need 10 kilo of R410a.

>> No.1642402

>>1640200
No scam

>> No.1643856

>>1641983
Obviously I try to avoid it, but the 410A gets me just about every time the valves are in a weird spot. When you've got that damn high side on you either bite the bullet and get it off as fast as you can, or leave your gauges. I'll take 2 weeks of frostbite recovery over losing gauges, unfortunately, but I try to avoid that as much as possible by not connecting high side if it isn't needed in those situations. I'd bet most 410A residential setups would burn a novice if they aren't anticipating the initial burst and hesitate.

>> No.1643866

>>1643856
>doesnt use low loss hoses

they are literally there so 410 doesnt boff you, grandpa

>> No.1643936 [DELETED] 

>>1642049

this is very true but analog gauges still have their place. the age of the technology is irrelevant to the analog/digital gauge arguement

>> No.1643940

>>1642049

this is very true but analog gauges still have their place. the age of the technology is irrelevant to the analog/digital gauge argument

>> No.1643953

>>1642116
>fieldpiece
i honestly thought this was a meme. i think FP is one of those brands americants just bought into and are too stubborn to let go of like slotted screws.

go get yourself a set of testo's or something not designed in the 80s. those are the hvac equivalent of gordon gekkos phone

>> No.1644014

>>1643953
Testo is mid range at best for HVAC. Sporlan and Yellowjacket make better bluetooth setups. Yellowjacket makes a better digital setup. Bacharach makes infinitely better combustion analyzers. Their multimeters get blown out of the water by Fluke and FLIR. There is nothing that Testo is best at.

>> No.1644048
File: 15 KB, 500x324, How-To-Fix-a-Leaking-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644048

Any tips on how to unclog the drain of indoor split unit?

>> No.1644053

>>1644048
You have to remove the filters then the outer shell. If you can get at the drain port of the condensate pan from the top work from there, otherwise remove the drain hose from the bottom. If you have access to compressed air, CO2, or nitrogen use that at low pressure to blow it out. If you don't either buy a gallo gun or shove something down it to remove any blockage. If your drain is clear and your having leaks you either have a bad connection or crack in something that will need to be fixed.

>> No.1644123
File: 26 KB, 500x500, A239AAF0-9AD0-46A9-A4A5-C0CCA8478010.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644123

>using any meter besides ‘ol reliable

>> No.1644127

>>1644048
Disassemble indoor unit, remove tray, pressure wash drain or use some sort of wire to clean it.

>> No.1644129
File: 29 KB, 466x356, R410a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644129

Can I use pic related to check R410a charge and charge mini splits?

>> No.1644141

>>1644129
Do you have a hose to go with it? That male end isn’t going to work with the male on the unit. And the gauge is for low side, you need a red one, 325psi isn’t high enough for r410

>> No.1644144

>>1644141
>Do you have a hose to go with it?
I wanted to buy gauge like pic related which comes with all hoses (2 pcs) and adapters for R410a.
> And the gauge is for low side, you need a red one, 325psi isn’t high enough for r410
Mini splits only have low side ports, this is why I started looking into gauges like pic related, since they are like 3 times cheaper, than proper manifold. Having less hoses and less valves will reduce chance of me fucking up.

>> No.1644150

>>1644141
They'll need hoses or a male to female adapter but most basic mini splits only have suction ports.

>>1644129
That would be the bare minimum along with the above mentioned hoses or adapter and single hose. Make sure you get the right size for your split since most tools have 1/4 fittings and Asian built mini splits use 5/16 for R410A in the US. I'm not sure what size they use internationally just that they put larger fittings on to prevent hooking up R22 gauges onto R410A systems.

>> No.1644163

>>1644150
>That would be the bare minimum along with the above mentioned hoses or adapter and single hose.
And thermometer to measure superheat.
>Make sure you get the right size for your split since most tools have 1/4 fittings and Asian built mini splits use 5/16 for R410A in the US.
I guess I have 5/16, since it is Chinese air conditioner. In any case, I can buy all adapters at local HVAC supply shop.
> I'm not sure what size they use internationally just that they put larger fittings on to prevent hooking up R22 gauges onto R410A systems.
I think they use it world-wide.

>> No.1644170
File: 46 KB, 500x500, s-l500 (1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1644170

>>1644163
Also, can I use it for charging car AC? Or I would need high side there?
Gauges come graduated in bars (based metric kg-f chinks) and R22, R410a and R134a, so I don't have to use spreadsheet.

>> No.1644177

>>1643866
I don't see any in OP's pic, so it's irrelevant to his situation, but from my experience and what I hear they work great when they work.

>> No.1644179

>>1644170
Auto uses a different hose fitting but the gauge will work

>> No.1644190

>>1644179
Yes, they have some sort of cancer connector, so I'd need an adapter.

>> No.1644265

>>1644014
>sporlan
not aware of any tools they make
>yellowjacket better digital
nope. yellowjacket has gone down hill hard. basic manifolds are fine but other than that, they are mostly shit. my YJ recovery machine is shit and iv had many, my YJ leak dectector is mediocre, my YJ vacuum gauge is crap.

bacharach makes good testing equipment but can be a bit expensive. testo digital gauges and combustion analyzers are good quality for the price

fluke for meters every time

>> No.1644292

>>1644265
Yellowjacket manifolds are still the best in my opinion but everything else except their tubing benders I avoid. My coworker had a set of the Testo digital manifolds and they did not last. I do agree that Yellowjacket is letting their stuff slide a bit but I buy other brands for that.

I wouldn't use anything but Appion for a recovery machine. I've been wanting to try their vacuum pump too but the company just got me a new JB last year so I need to run that into the ground first.

It's hard to appreciate how much better Bacharach analyzers are until you've used TSI until they went out of business then Testo until upgrading to Bacharach. Bacharach leak detectors are also kickass but you ain't lying about them being expensive.

Vacuum gauges I stick with Bluvac although some coworkers swear by their Thermal Engineering analogue vacuum gauges.

The "SMART" service tool is the Sporlan bluetooth setup. I have owned the Testo bluetooth set and was thoroughly unimpressed but I have had hands on with the Sporlans and Appion sets and they both checkout as long as the bluetooth on your device is worth a shit.

Have you used any of Hilmor's stuff? They started showing up around here in the last couple years but everyone I know is hesitant to give them a try since they're almost as much as JB or YJ

>> No.1644377

>>1641685
We're you born with an extra chromosome

>> No.1644396

>>1644292
>Hilmor
I have their swage kit. Hydraulic little hand held pump thing. Super nice. Expensive, but it means never needing to use a coupling ever again and no longer having to use those shitty swage punches you hammer in. 8 pumps and done, easy to pump, quick release, slides right in and out.
Even came with a pretty good deburr tool

>> No.1644574

>>1644377
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XYY_syndrome

>> No.1646185

>>1640892
kekd

>> No.1646194

where pepe giftgas

>> No.1646877
File: 526 KB, 772x434, IMG-af0a2f97e3533277b1ca2bc2c5fffbb0-V.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1646877

This is an odd question.
Can spray foam be used as an alternative for the insulation on the lines running from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit of Split-AC?

>> No.1646907
File: 621 KB, 1260x653, split foam pipe insulation.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1646907

>>1646877
>spray foam

why would you even bother?

>> No.1647253

>>1646907
Because of reasons.
Honestly though, that's the only thing I have around and it's cheaper at least where I live.

>> No.1647299

>>1646877
Why?
>>1647253
Get water pipe insulation.
I can't believe spray foam is cheaper than water pipe insulation.

>> No.1647444

>>1642049
Are you retarded? You can't do simple math and you don't already know the pressure to temp. of the refrigerant you are working with? Have fun when your digital manifold fails on you while you are working on a system and have to use analogs. It will take you twice as long to diagnose a problem with analogs if you don't use analogs. Digitals are good but they are not reliable.

>> No.1647607

>>1640202
Check you superheat (if you have an orifice) or your subcool (if TXV) you might have too much charge. Your readings look a bit high. In my experience you want an evap temp around 34°F to 40°F for the unit to function efficiently. Though it could just be because you have a txv

>> No.1647627

>>1647607
So my joke to release freon in the air would actually help? kek.

>> No.1647757

>>1647627
Yes. You didn't say it but I am assuming you don't have an epa cert. So you won't get in trouble if you act like you didn't know it was bad to vent. Let it out through the high side but a little at a time. But I can't stress enough check your superheat and subcooling before and during the release. You don't want a frozen coil. But you shouldn't vent it's bad :^)

>> No.1647843

>>1647757
>But you shouldn't vent it's bad :^)
Freon recovery machines are expensive, and thirdworlders can't afford them, so they vent freon every time it is contaminated with water or air.

>> No.1647992

>>1647627
No, that guy has no fucking clue what he's talking about. Nothing from the limited info in OP's pic indicates overcharge.

>> No.1648224
File: 86 KB, 1228x351, 21.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1648224

Not OP but I'm having issues with a LG split unit.
Pic related is the error (CH21). Called service and they said the outdoor PCB needs to be replaced.
But later I noticed there's some kind of black liquid on the outdoor unit's valve. So is it simply a refrigerant leak? Or is the PCB really bust?

>> No.1648255

>>1648224
Turns out it's just condensation mixed with dirt. Guess that board will have to be replaced.
Another question, is it bad to run both pipes through the same insulation foam?

>> No.1648262

>>1648255
I've seen them individually insulated inside of a shared jacket. If they're not separated the lines will rub on each other which can lead to leaks.

>> No.1648445

>>1648224
>>1648255
>dirt
Is it oily, or not?
If it is oily, it is refrigerant leak, and it could fry the compressor.
Check PCB for liquid damage or escaped magic smoke.
>is it bad to run both pipes through the same insulation foam?
It is not good.
It used to be common in R22 era though, and for some reason they stopped doing this.

>> No.1649856

>>1640640
Flex duct is perfectly fine as long as you have a well sealed attic to prevent rodents from chewing on them. Stop being a fuckin onions boy.

>>1640793
>has 5 other calls he’s stressing about
>accidentally leaves gauges
Kill yourself faggot.

>>1640833
>but but but muh fieldpiece digi gauges with temp clamps are SOOOOO much better which is why I spent an extra 350 dollars to get told the same thing that regular gauges and knowledge would tell me
I bet you actually use the digital compass in your iPhone you faggot.

>>1641941
>using manual valve fittings instead of just shrader valves
>year of our lord 2019
>wearing gloves and eye pro like an absolute faggot

>>1642116
>doesn’t even have the dummy thicc vacuum line for maximum succ
0/10, loses to quad valve analog every time.

>> No.1649888

>>1649856
Only jews, hacks and cheap cucks like yourself use flex duct

>> No.1649945

>>1649888
Or people with drop ceilings.

>> No.1649949

>>1649888

Nothing wrong with properly installed flex duct, and it's vastly superior to metal. Same with PEX plumbing, If you aren't a retard, you used modern tech and it works fine.

>> No.1649954

>>1649949
Flex duct is so great most places have a code against running it more than 6 feet due to pressure drop. It's for terminations only and anyone that uses it for more than that is a boob.