/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1634644
jeez dude it's not gonna be that imprecise

>>1634651

Trust me, i've experienced it first-hand. I wanted to see if i could use my oven for retrobrighting old computer plastics so i stuck the temperature probe on my multimeter inside the oven and set it to 50C to see what happens. It went past 100C in no time, and the heater had such a high thermal capacity that the temperature kept rising even after the oven switched it off. If you have a multimeter with that option you can test it yourself.

>>1634646
Heh, FDM sucks, I can't believe why anyone uses it. I only use powder printing.

Anyone tried this red thing?

just wanted to let you all know that this thread has actually motivated me to do creative stuff again after years of letting myself go. even if you posted only once, you helped

Reminder to swap the mainboard supply wire + the bed heating wire for a thicker gauge.
Otherwise the plug will melt and burn your house down.
>buT i flashe the gud merlin thermal Runaway protection
Doesn't help you here
Another benefit is that the bed heats faster.

Other than that my Ender works like a sewing machine. I started posting in January and went through a couple spools by now without doing any maintenance.
Level sensors are a meme, I just eyeball it depending on the material and object. I touch the leveleing maybe every 10 prints or so.

>>1634762
* for an Ender 3

>>1634762
Fuck, I never had my FDM do that

>>1634767
and I bought it straight from china as a kit

>>1634769
Well depends on what you actually got.
The Ender 3 went through a lot of evolutions and versions and I happend to get one with an underdimensioned wire.
During a print the whole wire got too hot to touch.
Chances are they realized that and delivered them with better wires.

>>1634758
I only posted dildos. Your welcome

>>1634762
Hello, this is THICC.
Who dare to summon me?

>>1634468
In a completely baffling turn of events, apparently the filament doesn't slice if it's in *that specific* slot. I don't know how to explain it, but I swapped extruder numbers for that colour and it started showing up properly. I think it might have to do with the order of the Parts in the list here, but I'm not sure.

>>1634749
>$9000 machine
Gee, what could possibly be the reason why people use $500 machines?

And yeah, FDM definitely sucks, that's why aerospace and medical companies are still using it, right?

>>1634762
>>1634845

>>1634847
Please dont reply to trolls.

>>1634849
It's the first time I've heard of that machine at all, I was willing to give him the benefit of the doubt

>>1634762
Have you actually measured or touched the wire?
As you see, the problem is the connector, not the wire(diameter).
There are numerous companies just specialized in making connecters.
Of course, an Ender 3 comes probably with china clones (and cloned (crimp-) tools). However, it might work. But chinese end line assembly can make things much worse.

>>1634846
Interesting to know.
Thanks for the info anon.

>>1634646
fa/tg/uy and complete 3D printing virgin here, does
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
>Under 300 USD Babby's First Printer: Qidi X-One2 or Monoprice Select Mini
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
still apply if I'm looking to print very small items at very high resolution (IE, for miniature wargaming models)? I heard FDM printing still doesn't have to resolution that SLM does and resolution is the biggest thing I need.
Would an SLM printer like the ANYCUBIC Photon be the better choice for my needs?
Also, in regards to printer food, is SLM photopolymer resing in general around twice as expensive as FDM plastic wire? I'm doing a quick look around on amazon and that's what I'm seeing.

>>1634868
>still apply if I'm looking to print very small items at very high resolution (IE, for miniature wargaming models)?
nope, get a sla printer
anycubic photon and co.
resins are kinda expensive, but you will print tiny models, yes?

>>1634868
SLM =/= SLA. SLM is much more expensive and troublesome than SLA. You're right about wanting a resin printer for small models, though. Pic related is from the photon (1-inch base), and that's double the minimum layer height you can get out of it (as in, you can get even finer detail). Model is from Heroforge, garbage paintjob is from me.

>>1634868
>>1634875
Pic related is a Dunecrawler leg I modeled to be articulated, there's tight enough tolerances that the hinges move without being floppy. Same resolution as the figurine I posted above.

>>1634871
>resins are kinda expensive, but you will print tiny models, yes?
Yep. I can't think of too much I'm going to print that will be more than 2 inches tall so I'm not so much worried about using up resin printing per se.
My bigger issue is that I heard that the resin in the reservoirs that SLA printers use has a shelf life once poured and needs to be used before it goes bad or else it'll cure and become unusable. That's worrying when the resin is as expensive as it is and I'm not sure I'll be using enough resin (or the printer for that matter) to justify having to replace the all the resin in the reservoir whenever I need to print something.
Is my concern justified or am misunderstanding things? Do you know what the average shelf life for the resin is?

>>1634875
>>1634878
>SLM =/= SLA. SLM is much more expensive and troublesome than SLA
Whoops, sorry about that. I did meant the latter though.
>Pic related is from the photon (1-inch base), and that's double the minimum layer height you can get out of it (as in, you can get even finer detail).
>Pic related is a Dunecrawler leg I modeled to be articulated, there's tight enough tolerances that the hinges move without being floppy.
That's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. I mostly want to be able to shit out cheapo monster, characters, and scenery for tabletop games as well as scenery and bits for wargames (including 40k shit for my own Ad Mech army). I've worked with 3d modelling programs before and so I'm pretty sure I can at least learn to modify any STLs I manage to find to suit my own needs.
What was the print time for the leg? I wouldn't mind snagging the file for it if you're willing to share it.
Unrelated, I also want to print out the low-poly statues from Quake 3 as well as the enemies from Quake 1 and 2.

>>1634881
>average shelf life for the resin is
I can't speak for all resins but the one that comes with the Photon survived for 5 months in the Photon, while it was covered with the box it shipped in. The big issue with leaving resins open is stray light hitting it; since they're photosensitive, that cures it over time. Plus, possible evaporation or air getting into it. Though, again, I'm still on my first bottle after 5 months and it's not gone bad yet.

>print time for the leg
I don't remember, but anything around 4 inches tall takes ~3hrs due to the way the Photon works (entire layer cures at once, so you can have the built plate 100% populated and it still takes the same amount of time as 1% density). And I'm not releasing the model for that at the moment, sorry; still got lots of issues with the model I need to work through, among other things.

>low-poly statues from Q1/2/3
>40k shit for AdMech army
Good lad. Admirable goals.

>>1634892
>I can't speak for all resins but the one that comes with the Photon survived for 5 months in the Photon, while it was covered with the box it shipped in. The big issue with leaving resins open is stray light hitting it; since they're photosensitive, that cures it over time. Plus, possible evaporation or air getting into it. Though, again, I'm still on my first bottle after 5 months and it's not gone bad yet.
Sweet, that pretty much clears my worries in that regard. I was thinking that the resin would go bad in under a month, even if it was covered. If I can just throw a sheet over it to restrict the light that hits it then it's a non-issue for me. I don't think it'll sit idle for more than two months one I get into the swing o' things.
>I don't remember, but anything around 4 inches tall takes ~3hrs due to the way the Photon works (entire layer cures at once, so you can have the built plate 100% populated and it still takes the same amount of time as 1% density).
That's not so bad. As long as I'm not getting a ridiculous number of failed printed, I'm not too concerned with prints taking about that long.
>And I'm not releasing the model for that at the moment, sorry; still got lots of issues with the model I need to work through, among other things.
I understand and I'm 100% cool waiting until you're ready to release (if you decide to). If I was in a hurry to get some custom bits I wouldn't have waited this long to pull the trigger on a printer myself. I want to try to make some mini-Onager Servitors but, y'know
>running Kataphrons
is still a hurdle I've yet to clear. Plus, I don't have the STL for this (or one like it).

About to buy an ender 3 pro on sale from AliExpress should I get a glass bed with it? Are there any general upgrades recommended for it while the aliexpress sale is still on?

printing the inmoov right hand. printing the fingers right now, this is really starting to look nice once you put it all together, very solid construction. it actually feels like an adults hand but made out of plastic which feels strange. still very cool.

>>1634899

yes get glass and remember to use 99 percent otherwise prints will not stick. i use so much alcohol i have to hit it with a hammer to remove it from the glass bed, that's how strong it sticks to the bed. you are gonna want to change the fittings on the enter 3 that connect the bowden tube to the hotend and extruder, get replacement nozzles, get replacement bed springs, get aluminum extruder if you can. dampers do help a ton if it's done right, will make your ender 3 silent or you can change board to tmc drivers but it think the dampers if installed right is enough and its cheap.

Any words on the new Monoprice Resin printer? It was like 200$ on amazon.

>>1634901

I don't own a 3d printer yet but I'm split between SLA and FDM. Will I be able to print parts such as that or is the build volume too small? Is resin prints strong?

>>1634898
>sheet
Honestly, just the box it comes in is perfect. It's got foam inserts (the good kind, not the ones that flake apart), the bag prevents smell from getting through, and the box isn't too much of an eyesore and fits quite snugly over the whole thing.
>failed prints
I don't think I've gotten a single failed print so far, which is nice. Just follow procedure and you should be set; I've seen several times where people skip steps and then are surprised when they crash the bed into the screen or get delaminations.
>that pic
Neat - from the finish, looks like it's something from Shapeways? Care to link? I like the way those look.

>>1634910
Build volume would be fine, but the cost is prohibitive. You're looking at probably over $40-$75 to print a single hand for negligible benefit over an FDM printer at that scale. You'd be better off printing decorative "scales" you'd bolt on to an FDM part if you really want detail on the surface, or just sand and paint at that point.

holy shit does the extruder run hot in an enclosure while printing ABS with an MMU. I know these things are rated for like 100C or something but the filament is being softened by the heat from the extruder. let's hope my temporary aluminum foil radiator will help

>>1634646
what's the cheapest/entry level 'full color' printer that's out there?
some sort of sandstone printer? (preferred)

>>1634927
I don't know any names off the top of my head but you're looking at thousands of dollars for a machine, if not tens of thousands (excluding things like the Diamond Extruder setup).

>>1634923
>Neat - from the finish, looks like it's something from Shapeways? Care to link? I like the way those look.
It was from a thread a few years back on B&C.
>http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/330884-alternative-kataphrons/
The dude has his own blog (apparently) but it's not much more up-to-date than the B&C thread.
>https://angrykafeineeng.wordpress.com/tag/modelling/
I don't know if the STLs were ever released.

Any thoughts on what to change to get rid of these? 0.8mm nozzle has been difficult to get retraction set right. I've gotten better results today, increasing wipe to 1.2mm had the most significant results. 6mm is kinda large, but with the long bowden tube and large nozzle size, the better results I got after running a 3x3 matrix of 30, 50, 70mm/s and 2, 6, 10 mm retraction distances were the middle values.

>>1634923
>You're looking at probably over $40-$75 to print

what the fuck ? is it really that more expensive? that's like $10 worth of filament for a FDM printer.

>>1634954
More cooling/lower extrusion temp. Also,
>burger in the corner
What?

>>1634758
I love you too anon

>>1634927
Do you mean a printer that can inject dyes and print any colors? Those are 6 figures or more, just paint the model from an FDM machine, maybe resin if you need high detail and tiny print volumes

>>1634758

>>1634954
Turn off combing maybe

Trying to figure out which printer to get and my general budget seems between the OP's Creality Cr-10 and Monoprice Mini.

I narrowed it down to the CR-10 Mini, MP10 mini, and Anycubic Mega-S. Does anyone have any experience with these? Amazon reviews are all over the place.

I just want to get started with 3d printing without fucking around with assembling a whole kit. The MP-10 mini seems to have the most features and the bed size seems sufficent. Pls help.

>>1635035
Anycubic 4max for the enclosure, it's not hard to build it

https://all3dp.com/1/anycubic-4max-formax-3d-printer-review/

>>1634967
There was room in the picture and it was delicious
>>1634967
It is off

I tried adding coasting, no success. I think the comment about part cooling is probably the answer, confidence level is not high for the setup I currently have. I'll try printing a bracket for two blower fans instead of just one tomorrow on my smaller printer and see how that goes. Having a 0.8 nozzle is really nice for those big prints, but it creates some funky issues as well.

>Says open source.
>Source is nowhere to be found.
How is this allowed?

>>1634855
>Have you actually measured or touched the wire?
Yes, the whole wire was too hot to touch.
The connector was like a paste when touching it.
I removed the connector entirely, it's propably only there to help manufacturing at creality.

>>1634954
Try coasting + wall wiping

>>1634909
Got it. The web based slicing software that comes with it is shit. There is a slic3r sla version for it but you have to dig in the manual that's on the ssd for it. It's still kinda shit but it works.
It's slow. A 28mm scale d&d fig takes 5-7 hours, but it was so cheap it will pay for itself in figs within a month
Once I figured out the right slicing software for it I've been golden.

Question for other sla owners. Does sanding the plate really help with adhesion and if so what grit?
>inb4 beltsander, 60grit, or run it up against your mom's legs

>>1635119
>Does sanding the plate really help with adhesion?
Technically it should. My Plate is the lid of something like pic related. I did sand it but that was to get the clear coat of whatever they had on there off.

>>1635119
>does sanding the plate help
Dunno, my photon's blue anodized plate works fine so far. I'd go with something coarse if I had to resurface, though, as smooth wouldn't stick very well I'd think

>>1634868
get a cetus 3d, stock up on a few extra .2mm nozzles, printing at .1mm layer height and its hard to tell there are layers (depending on the filament). hit it with a high build primer (i use SEM, its worth the extra few bucks) and it will look like a cast model

I made a articulated octopus, but one of the legs broke off while trying to remove from the bed. A little bit of glue helped. Now I'm printing a 1x2x3 Rubik's cube that needs no supports and no screws or glue. You assemble and that is it.

How is this even possible? >:-(

>>1635219
There could be a few reasons why it is tangled, but here is a solution how to deal with tangled filament spools.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c20nrF4b8-g

>>1635219
Shitty filament that wasn't spun properly or it was too loose and several turns escaped from the roll and they got entagled with each other

>>1635221
The end of the video shows how to undo tangles.

>>1635035
The monoprice mini is okay, but needs maintenance every 800 print hours. I have had better experience with the Wifi X-One2, though it can be hard to find it in stock.

>>1635065
Nope, after some search, I don't found it either.
MK2 -> MK3S are here :
https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/branches/all

The SL1 is still advertised as Open Source, so either there is an other depot, or it's a lie.

>>1635065
>>1635255
Maybe it's just not on a public repo (no open-source license requires that, it's enough to send it when requested).

Just send them an email and ask for it.

>>1634646
>Under 300 USD Babby's First Printer: Qidi X-One2 or Monoprice Select Mini
For fucks sake you slimy wanker, stop changing the OP without thread consensus. En Ender 3 is a much better first printer than a Mono Select Mini, just from the build volume and frame rigidity alone.

>>1635035
Why not a CR-20? Bolts right up, and since you have somewhat more than an Ender 3 budget you might as well get th nice CR-10 series features.

>>1635198
>Cetus 3D
Can anybody explain to me why you should spend 400 USD on a printer with a single Z rail, when you could have a well-tuned setup with two Z-rails (although not a linear guide) for less than half of that? I know the Ender 3 will do 0.06mm resolution, and combined with 0.2mm nozzle that should give plenty of high details.

I made a 1x2x3 Rubik's cube. It is very loose and the pieces fall off easily and the twist action is not perfect, but this is still nice.

>>1634758
Great to hear anon! Let us know what you make, you may inspire someone else.

>>1635387
The colors are very... personal.
Maybe put a distinctive engraved logo on each "colored" side instead of paper?
Or maybe a recessed dot that you paint?

My grandfather's computer case from the 90s had a reset switch that required you to push it with a pencil point since it was recessed like 2mm into the case, and he being 81 wasn't having that anymore, so he asked me to print him one that was proud of the front of the case. The original part relied on a plastic spring tethered to an offset shaft to limit its movement to axial, but I only have PLA. It took a few revisions but this is what eventually worked. No telling how long the spring will last (each "tine" is .6 thick) but it presses the pushbutton inside the case and springs back into position, so for now it's a success. Wish I could do nylon.

Does the electronics have to be outside the enclosure? I have a CR-20 so the electronics are attached to the bottom of the printer and can't be separated. Would it be dangerous to just stick the whole thing in an enclosure?

>>1635444
This is what you call overengineering, just superglue a piece of plastic on top of the button that reaches out of the case

>>1635478
that's gay though

>>1635065
>>1635255
>>1635264
>>Says open source.
>>Source is nowhere to be found.
It is done like always: Things get released when they get everything in a decent working state (or think it is in one), and no, selling the printer doesnt mean it works perfect, there still can be stuff that is fucked or was constructed with the wrong approach with like everything else you can buy. Also at this state most of the "people" interested in the plans are just sellers from china that want to get their hands on the plans as quick as possible to make a cheap rip off that doesnt even have to work half as well.

>>1635374
There's been more posts upset about the printer being put there than there has been actual discussion about it, I don't know why OP keeps doing it. I don't think there's even been any pictures of people here using it.

>>1635400
I always do. made the uggo lampshade last thread

>3 hours into the print
>extruder starts clicking
> <:-)

So even an expensive Titan aero isn't immune to issues, this is the second time i've had to service it. Question for everyone - on average how much time to you spend fiddling about with the printer itself vs time printing (in %) and what brand/model is it? I generally try not to skimp on components so i'm curious how often, say, Ender3 owners wich cheap chinese hotends are having to fix problems with their machines.

>>1635520
When i started with my cheap chinese ultimaker clone years ago? Something what feels like 30-50%. Must add that i gotten pretty unlucky with the one i got, ton of fiddly hard to grasp problems, one friend and someone else i remotely know who both got the same model from the same seller had far less problems. Now after i upgraded and replaced a ton of parts? Something like 3-7% in general, maybe more if you count adding or replacing more things for convinience sake.
Maybe half related to your problem; after i replaced my cheap nozzle and heatbreak with a plated one, i had a significant drop in problems.

>>1635520
PrintrBotLC: 80%, but I think that's because I was young and dumb.
Prusa MK1: 20%, mostly due to the reapplication of glue, bed leveling, and waiting for prints to cool off
Flashforge Creator Pro: 60$, I hate this dumb thing. The bed never stays level, prints keep peeling, it eats filament for no reason, and changing the filament is a royal pain in the ass. I try not to use it where I can.
Prusa MK3S: 2%, the most time-consuming thing is opening my enclosure to swap out filament or cleaning burnt crap from the nozzle

Thoughts on the new cooler? >>1635043 I really hope this solves my stringing issues

wanted to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3388327

and forgot i had left tree support. my question is, would that model have been able to print without supports?

>>1635577
looks good anon, but i wonder if the stringing is the nozzle leaking from the long bowden tube

>>1635580

Fuck apparently i could have. oh well ill give it away.

>>1635577
You don't need a new cooler to fix stringing, just change your print temperature, flow rate, or retraction settings

>need ~700W psu
>don't want to die in a house fire using chink LED psus
>mean well 750w is $200
help

>>1635611
Can't just use a PC power supply?

>>1635613
24v system, also they're loud

>>1635615
PC power supplies? Not anything with a 120mm fan.

24V step up adapter?

>>1635618
chinese death machine
I just had a thought: do I need to include my stepper motors' wattage in the total concurrent power draw when selecting a PSU? The motors shouldn't be zipping around when the bed is heating, and the bed shouldn't be drawing 400W when i'm printing, so couldn't I subtract the motors' power draw?
heatbed: ~406W
2 e3d v6s: 60W
duet 2 wifi: 2W
screen: 3.5W
2 hotend fans: 6W
2 blower fans: 7.2W
4 steppers: 240W

>>1635621
You should probably just over prevision everything

Buy a step up thing that isn't from aliexpress?

>>1635624
a non-deathtrap 12->24V 30+A step up converter plus a 750W ATX power supply would probably end up costing more than the mean well.

>>1635621
i'm retarded, I was doing 2.0A*24V for each motor, it should be 2.0A*2.8V, so for 5 motors (xyz + 2 e) that's 28W, putting me at ~ 516.7W total power draw assuming everything is running at once. Not 700+

What do you guys think of premium pla? getting some of pic related coming soon.

you guys are seriously make some of the coolest shit i have seen on here. why isnt 3d printing more popular? you would think people would use the technology more often because a lot of the stuff you guys are printing cannot be bought on amazon or walmart.

>>1635681
>why isnt 3d printing more popular?
because you need to be able to use CAD software to use it effectively.

>>1635681
>why isnt 3d printing more popular?
Most people are just flat out too dumb to do anything useful. They couldn't build anything if their life depended on it, let alone find their way through a CAD program well enough to get something from thoughts to printed part.

Newfag looking to get into the hobby. If I wanted to start with something that could print models roughly 15cm long with decent resolution, what kind of price point am I looking at? Was considering the Ender3 (the price point is very appealing as I'm not rolling in cash) but all the reviews on it are super mixed. I'm ok with a bit of maintenance and set up but ideally I want something that works out of the box.

>>1635681
They cost more than the parts most people need to print with them. Most people have never used CAD. They don't want to fiddle with settings all day like I do.
There was a CAD/Tech drawing class when I was in highschool but you had to opt to take it.

>>1635707
ender 3 is good for the price, build area of 225x225mm. get a borosilicate glass bed and a sheet of PEI to put on top of it and you're good. print a filament roller.

>>1635713
Wicked, thanks! I have to say this general is surprisingly chill compared to most of the others I've participated in, /prod/ would have told me to get cancer and die.

>>1635707

It will work out the box but remember you have to put this thing together and make everything square while building the printer. Then comes learning the software and creating gcode for your prints. It's never going to be an out of box experience but that's okay, it's supposed to be like that just as it is with machining parts, sometimes you will scrap but you learn from it. I have an ender 3. It's a good machine for the price and tons of upgrades and support. This is one of those hobbies where just a little bit of sacrifice to time and learning will pay off in the end, then you start trusting your printer and know you can leave it for days and nothing will happen.

Here it is with removed tree support I had accidentally left on. Still don't think I could have printed this without any support. Will need to process and debbur it.

>>1635725
Why does it need all of that stuff?

>>1635727

what kind of stuff? the deburring? its easily removed, why not do. I don't like prints going to waste I mean I usually give stuff away to people and they like it but would rather save it than dump it into the scrap bin.

>>1635731
No the strange structure inbetween the top/bottom, why isn't it just a uniform thing or infill?

>>1635735

it's supposed to be pic related. It's not exact but close model someone made and uploaded to thingiverse. I don't think I would have been able to print that without supports but could be wrong. i used tree support lol but dont think supports would have been any better without chopping it into pieces, we'll find out once i reprint this later.

>>1635725
looks like shit

>>1635478
>"fixing" old computer with superglue
You need some rest anon, you can't think straight.

>>1635216
My brother printed me a larger octopus, so the one I printed looks wimpy in comparison.

Can someone recommend me me a rack and pinion mechanism or something gear based for an extendable caliper-like thing that locks into place.

Basically i'm making an easel for transportation and i need it to expand/contract and hold.

>>1635577
Looks autistic and heavy as fuck.
Have you tried coasting and wall wiping to reduce stringing?

>>1635490
>I don't know why OP keeps doing it
I do: he's trying to shill his printers.

>>1635812
>rack and pinion
is fine
>and hold
drive them through a worm gear

>>1635665
Do you need it for a certain project because of its properties or just for the lulz? I was thinking about getting some fancy pla from formfutura which is supposed to be stronger than regular but I figured that using abs instead would defead its purpose.

>>1635828
Read the thread and good thing I don't care about my printer looking 'autistic'. The fans+bracket are 64 grams.
>>1635607
Read the thread
>>1635582
I'm afraid of that but because of the huge build volume there's not much I can do to reduce the bowden tube length, so I'm trying to fix as much as I can through settings and other things I can control. However I have a suspicion that it's more related to

This is a shot of before/after the upgraded cooling. The before is on top, after on bottom. Identical gcode with retraction settings 50mm/s 6mm, no wiping or coasting. While it hasn't been eliminated, its severity has certainly been reduced particularly on the long travel move.

>>1635927
Have you considered a nimble or fl3xdrive?

>>1635927
Have you tried any other cooling blower mods yet?
Pic related uses the stock fans my printer came with and the difference it makes is huge.

>>1635953
Chep and Teaching Tech say that it makes no difference.

>>1634646
So there used to be an archive for 3D printed stuff on a mega somewhere that got nuked. Then we went to some booru that got nuked as well. Is there an alternative?

Best delta for 600?

>>1636108
Probably that anycubic one

but why delta and not a CR10 something if you need a large build area?

>>1636010
it's probably actually worse, as the stock ender 3's part cooling duct is very small, whereas the bullseye is huge and full of sharp turns and sudden cross-sectional size decreases, which loses a lot of static pressure.

>>1635953
Stock fan is shit, get a blower.

>>1636118
the ender's stock part cooling fan is a blower retard, it's just a shitty 4010.

>>1636114
A static bed just makes more sense to me.

>>1636121
By blower he means a 5015, most people know this.

>>1636134
>most people know this.
>most people know that by saying "blower man" i mean "this specific size of squirrel-cage blower fan"

>>1636108
>>1636114
I wonder why people even consider the Predator when the Chiron is cheaper and bigger. Hell, if you want big volume, a delta and you have a 600 USD budget, with a bit of smart shopping you might be able to score a Chiron for big slow prints and a linear guide AC Kossel for small prints.

>>1634926
hope you've got your psu outside of the enclosure

>>1635681
This >>1635683 and printers that aren't sketchy Chinese kits are still very expensive.

>>1635219
you let go of the filament end at some point
that is the only possibility

>>1636174
please see >>1635472

>>1635444
there's no way that flexy part will last at all
they layer orientation is pure ass

>>1635828
>some fans and a bit of plastic is heavy
lmao

>>1635472
>>1636180
depends on the temperature in the enclosure and the PSU in question
it being in the bottom it'll probably be just fine
heat rises and stuff
worst probable result is just that the lifespan of the PSU is reduced, i doubt that it'll blow up or anything like that

>>1636181
it's printed on its side, rotated 90 degrees toward the "camera" in that screenshot.

>>1636186
printing PETG so 90C heatbed
>heat rises and stuff
Hmm true

>>1635750
of course it does, no post processing has been done on the part

>>1636188
guess that's alright then
one last complaint, the model isn't optimised for printing without support baka

>>1636190
yeah probably not a problem
i doubt it'll even get hotter than 60C of something in there

>>1636192
legitimate complaint.

>>1636193
Okay.
If my house burns down I have your IP.

>>1636192
>>1636194
thinking more on it, i can't design it so it prints entirely without supports because there are two posts that lock its rotation, and because it's a squiggly instead of a flat bar I can't just bridge it. red = case parts, blue = printed parts

>>1636201
i think that a flat bar flexy part would have been better

>>1636204
I tried that but it needs to deflect like 3mm and it just broke every time.

could i put a one foot wide diameter fan pointed at my bed while i print a part cooling fan mount? i upgraded my ender 3 to a direct drive and forgot about my part fan until i was almost done

>>1636238
can you? yeah
should you? no, that's retarded. the strand coming out of the nozzle needs to be cooled, the base of the print needs to stay hot, and the bed needs to stay hot.

>>1635852
Cool beans, is there an easy way to make a matching worm gear, i had to make it in a ghetto kind of way and it's a bit out of scale with the teeth on my moving parts.

>>1636252
duplicate the worm, scale it up a bit, boolean the rack with the upscaled part?

I think in the next 10 to 20 years we're going to see a manufacturing renaissance or democracy for manufacturing of some sort. The Savage Build episode of the Iron man suit convinced me of that and some of the models being printed just on here. I mean when you break down all the stuff being sold it's just plastic and electronics for the most part, granted someone has to design it but even there you have the chinese just reverse engineer whatever you make and sell it for a fraction of what's going for.

>>1635946
I saw that, and while it looks interesting I haven't considered those options due to cost as well as not being fully certain that the long bowden tube is the total source of my issues. I want to run through the temperature/material/slicer settings first now that I've taken care of the previously jank blower fan setup.
>>1635953
Yes I have, in the video you can see what I had to get me by up until now. This was always going to be a temporary solution; you can see the thick aluminum wire holding the fan in place. It certainly wasn't elegant, but it worked in a pinch. The model was this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1179737.. I wouldn't rate its performance as good as the cooler I have on my maker select v2 ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471 ) but it was certainly sufficient. But for my redesign, I have a feeling that the two fans are helping deal with the high rate of material flow through the larger nozzle.

>>1636273
is that the chimera? how do you like it? what filaments do you use with it?

>>1635873

Just for lulz and sometimes the prints look really nice with certain filaments. i wish i could use more than just 1 color at once. I want to buy a Mosaic Palette 2 but not for $500.


If we could use more than one color at once it would make things so much better but the results would have to be perfect.

There are like 3 prints I want to do with the Starlight Gray PLA. One is a reprint of this I fucked up on. >>1635725

>>1635750
It's a scrap I already gave it away.

>>1636191
Yea I could have worked on it a bit but would just be easier to reprint in this case. I just have to print with better orientation of the print and supports and just reprint it with Starlight Grey, will look better anyways.

>>1636252
http://forum.openscad.org/Parametric-hyperbolic-worm-gear-scripts-td22724.html
or just
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8821

>>1636279
Not a proper one, the FT-6 kit got hit pretty hard with the chinese cheap components hammer. This is what I believe to be used on it: https://www.amazon.com/Cyclops-Extruder-Compatible-Bulldog-extruder/dp/B074J7NBPQ at least, it has the same geometry. I haven't tried a two-filament print yet, I'm still busy trying to get one down let alone two.

>>1636252
This is hideous, you even fucked up the rack teeth, they are not supposed to be trapezoids. Learn proper gear design.

>>1636193
I-i was joking about the IP thing. You didn't reply so maybe you took it seriously. I appreciate your advice.

>>1636174
Nope. Worked fine, though it was hot to the touch. I also think this was more a matter of the way the control works being dumb rather than just overall overheating (as in, the stepper runs at full speed for a good second or two while the filament feeds, causing it to heat more than it does during regular operation)

>>1636399
>you even fucked up the rack teeth, they are not supposed to be trapezoids. Learn proper gear design.

While, yes, that worm gear is hilarious...you should probably be sitting next to him in class. Racks are the only gear on which the teeth are trapezoidal. The amount of curve to an involute tooth is determined by what the pitch diameter of the gear is. As a rack has an infinite pitch diameter, the involute is a curve of infinite radius (i.e. a straight line). Thus, trapezoidal teeth.

Anyway, yeah, you can make a basic bitch worm gear for a rack just by making a trapezoidal tooth form and sweeping it in a helix around a cylinder. The rack just needs a matching trapezoidal tooth repeated along its length. It's not a great mesh, but it's way easier than a double enveloping worm gear set. Mind your clearances, of course.

>>1636446
>it's way easier than a double enveloping worm gear set

It occurs to me that a globoid gear made for a rack would literally just be a regular worm gear, since the torus you'd derive the curve of the worm from would be of infinite diameter.

Only the rack teeth would need to be curved to match.

>>1634646
Is tinkercad an acceptable modeling program?
Should I learn Fusion 360?
How different is it from tinkercad?
Should I learn blender?
Also give me a project to work on I'm bored.

>>1636468
TinkerCAD is the best CAD, but it lacks some more advanced features they could easily add.

Fusion 360 is the next step up simply because it's free, and it's pretty much the only other option.

Blender isn't great for CAD stuff only organic models

You could design a wall mountable PC case that can be printed as one piece or multiple pieces. I need a reason to fill up my CR10-S5's bed.

The worm might look retarded, but it prints in 6 minutes, and works, so it'll do for the testing purposes.

The real issue is that i'm retarded and both clamps move the same way, while i wanted them to move in opposite directions. I realise i can fix one in place and just move the other ones, but this really limits the maximum size the thing can hold.

>>1636495
It would be far easier to just have a line of holes on each side with 1-2 bolts that secure them together.

>>1636495
>lol, it prints in 6 mins! it works! just testing!
>i'm retarded and both clamps move the same way
no shit
anons gave you all the hints you need, you just need to look it up, calculate your gears, model it and print it.
you could also use the worm as an axis and drive it with a nut, pic related

I want to get into 3D printing to make models and stuff like that, if I'm wanting to adapt models I find on places like thingiverse then print them, what would be the easiest software to learn? Are any of them particularly cheap?

>>1636518
read the fucking OP

>>1636518
>to make models and stuff like that
what exactly do you wanna make? anons use mostly fdm and sla printer.
>>1636518
>easiest software to learn?
depends on you, and your foreknowledge.
and again, what do you want to do?
D&D figurines? Mechanical parts?
There is a lot of different software for every use case.
>>1636518
>Are any of them particularly cheap?
All are "cheap", unless you run a business and wanna sell things. Then they will come for you, if you didn't paid for their software.

>>1636516
There's no need to be upset.

>>1636519
Wow, missed that bit at the end, guess I'm a bit of a retard. Fusion 360 is looking like the best option at this point.
>>1636521
Mostly model spaceships, I'd be making them on an Ender 3 at sizes ranging from 3-15cm roughly.
Fusion says that its free for students/educators, how full-on are they as far as verifying that shit goes? Can I just put in some made up stuff or are there actual steps I'll need to take for it?

>>1636522
But I really am upset, I hate lazy anons!

>>1636527
>Wow, missed that bit at the end
you also missed the pastebin:
>>1634646
>All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy
>>1636527
>Fusion says that its free for students/educators, how full-on are they as far as verifying that shit goes? Can I just put in some made up stuff or are there actual steps I'll need to take for it?
I guess you can get Fusion for free, for personal use.
There is also Autodesk Education something. I use Inventor, Revit and Maya with my student account (limited to three year or so). Iirc they check the email domain if it is from a real uni.

>>1636527
>>1636531
Fusion is free for hobbyists and start-ups
https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists

>>1636446
Ah sorry, I didn't know this.

>>1636528
>tfw you want to 3d print robots
>tfw the only robots that aren't a joke are the Japanese ones filled with complex code and the latest actuators

>>1636521
>unless you run a business and wanna sell things. Then they will come for you, if you didn't paid for their software
H-how do they find out? Asking for a friend.

>>1636680
if you sell the file, they may be able to forensics it
if you sell the print, they can't
>hey i'm from autodesk, did you design this print in fusion 360?
>no
>are you sure?
>yes
>ok

>>1636680
Big boy software, like solidworks, constantly communicates with home servers. Even when software is not opened. They know your IP. if they know address of that IP, they send inspection or just a bill with threat of lawsuit.
It is usually not a problem for home users (depends where you live). But a laboratory in our university had big problem, when some student connected to their wifi and had unlicensed software on his laptop.

>>1636680
>>1636686
And fusion360 is FREE for hobbyist and small businesses (less than 100k revenue).
>>1636552

>>1636431
if your PSU is fine i doubt you have to worry about filament melting

>>1635777
Do you and your brother compare "octopus" size often, anon?

>>1636468
started out with tinkercad, managed to make some surprisingly complex models through concentrated autism but then i realised i was being dumb and picked up fusion and started learning it.
didn't take too long to learn the basics and i've become pretty decent with it
so yeah if you can't handle having to learn before being able to make anything start with tinkercad but if ya don't wanna waste your time go straight to fusion

>>1636469
>TinkerCAD is the best CAD
not gonna judge, you do you

>>1636717
>>1636718
lmao people actually use this?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh4o9k599pQ

>>1636902
it's a religion

>>1636902
It is by far the most functional CAD software next to AutoCAD if it were better for 3d modeling.

almost there. fingers should be done soon. i went with 1 shell, im guessing that means 1 wall? anyways that's what i printed the fingers at minus thumb. it looks very nice.

>>1637009
Unless you're just making drafts 1 wall is going to be super weak

>>1637014

i thought that too but the instructions have it calling for 1 shell, im just guessing that means wall on cura? because i have checked everything else.

>>1637015
I'd probably go with at least 2, it's not like it's going to change the weight much

>>1637015
...

>>1637016
>>1637017

oh well we'll see, if its too weak i will reprint with 2 wall. believe it was like 40 grams of filament with brim.

>>1636708
>if your PSU is fine i doubt you have to worry about filament melting
...Right, agreed, but I'm not sure how that relates to the *stepper* being hot enough to soften the filament. The PSU wasn't a concern of mine, that other anon was the one who brought it up

>>1637009
Whom'st are you printing that for? I want to make a prosthetic for myself. I have all my fingers and toes, but I want to do what the 3rd thumb project did. They're not sharing their files so I have to make one myself.

>>1637040

just printing it for shits and giggles. never knew about the third thumb project, looks very cool.

Son of a fuck, I accidentally ordered PLA+ instead of regular PLA
How bad did I fuck up, is there anything special I need to know

>>1637060
It's just stronger PLA, should need a higher nozzle temperature like 210-220, and maybe a bed temperature of 80.

it's more like printing ABS than PLA depending on the mixture. Except it still doesn't warp like crazy.

>>1637083
What material? You probably just need a higher temperature, unless it's ABS which is a pain to use unless you have a full enclosure

Just got the last cr10s on sale from Creality on ebay. Do I need anything other than nozzles and filament? So far I'm just looking at getting pla+ from sunlu and esun. I dont see regular pla for cheaper anywhere on amazon. Do I need to worry about build plates or build-tak stuff?

>>1637096
The glass is fine on it's own for PLA

>>1637060
>>1637061
Just print it to manufacturers spec. (Nozzle temp. + Bed)
Don't throw out random claims

wtf is this and how do I get rid of it (using Ideamaker)

>>1637153
Check your X/Y belts and motors, something is obviously causing an unintended jump.

>>1637156
I have superglued the motor shaft and the pulley, I dont think the belt is under tensioned. Can it be an electrical problem or is is most likely something mechanical I have missed?

>>1637153

Let's start with the most obvious - does the ridge show up in the gcode?

>>1637167
No, i think. The red circles is where i see the defects on the actual print

>>1637180

OK, if the gcode looks fine check for belt tension. I'm not sure what you mean by "superglued the motor shaft and the pulley", you need to tension the idler such that the belt acts sort of like a guitar string. If the belt is sufficiently tightened, next is to check the stepper current.

>>1637193
The pulley and motor shaft is one part basically, I got tired of the setscrew backing off so i glued it. The belts are making a tone when you snap them, but its not super tight. The voltage on the drivers is set to 0.8v on X and Y.

>>1635219
I got a full refund from hatchbox for that

>>1637212
how could they be sure that the customer didn't fuck up?
i mean it's such a simple and common fuckup

>>1637199

The proper way to fix a slipping pulley is to file a flat section on the motor's shaft, or replace the motor with one that has a flat shaft. If tension and driver current are good, and assuming the pulley isn't slipping then the issue is something a lot less common and harder to diagnose from a picture. You will need to observe what the printer is doing in that area - is it doing the skip on purpose, is the plastic shrinking/curling in the area etc.

You can check if it does it on a simpler model, say just the egg shape without any seams and interlocking parts.

2 years with anet A8 and works very well but Im noticing it fails a lot lately, it can reach 190º unless i turn off the fan, a lot of ghosting and many button failures
Im looking for an ender 3 but dont know if its a good change
How is it for 170€? it works way better than anet and fails less?

>>1637214
Really? That’s the only time it ever happened to me. It happened like 3 times in that spool.

Is this impressive for ABS? Wanhao i3 clone with the usual upgrades

>>1637250
Also rate my setup

>>1635219
that's nothing, the amazon basics PLA stuff has fucking SPLICES IN THE SPOOL where it was poorly spliced together from two or more pieces, and it fucking rips apart at those areas fucking up every long-running print you want to do.

>>1637249
yeah it's really common that some inexperienced user lets go of the end of the filament and it jumps under another hoop

>>1637255
Ghetto/10

>>1634927
AFAIK anything "full color" is only experimental at best for hobbyists. You can try a diamond hot end: 3 or 5 in, 1 out.
https://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend
https://youtu.be/3Z_21b3xl20
https://www.instructables.com/id/Full-Color-Mixing-3D-Printer/

M3D also sells one for $250 but I haven't tried it so I can't vouch for it.

You could also try a filament splicer, but that only switches between colors and doesn't mix them. The only one I know of is the pallet and it costs just as much as a decent machine, about $500. Also keep in mind multi filament mixers like the diamond work best with translucent filaments and come out like pic related

>>1634927

Probably the Davinci Color, but... you know, it's Davinci:

https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color

It's better to learn to paint properly, the results are gong to be better than what you'd get at the sub-5000$ price point

>>1637255
>favela backyard 3000

reminder not to buy a single fucking thing from folgertech

i posted a while back about trying to cast pewter out of a mold made from a 3d print. even using the wrong silicone, things worked out. it took three iterations of the mold and learning from my mistakes, but i'm pretty damn pleased with the results

>>1634762
I have mains solid cooper wire on hand, should I recable it with that?

>>1637446
Very nice Anon, good results.
I suppose the silicone won't hold up for long,how many do you want to make?
And what silicone did you use?

>>1637451

Not a good idea, single core wire isn't meant to be bent much, it's for wiring wallsockets and lights... I'm using thicc silicone speaker wire for my bed and PSU.

>>1637477
i'm using smooth-on dragon skin, after ordering and recieving i found that a should have gone with mold max 60. however the mold hasn't been damaged at all from the pourings, i was only planning on around 10 but i could probably get 100 uses out of this one

>>1637446
post clean up, filed the face flat and lost detail in the "A" so i had to scratch at it with a file. last step is adding color with glass enamel or enamel paint if that fails. with how well this turned out i feel safe trying to take some commissions

here it is all done. 1 shell worked really well surprisingly. you can even make out the infil used when its not glowing which i used gyroid, adds accent to the hand. now it gets displayed in some random area of my home while i print my next part.

>>1637636

>>1637642
What does it do?

>>1637451
>>1637486
it goes from the power supply to the motherboard, so it doesn't move much

not ideal
but we'll get there at some point
it's a switch opener, a little over 1.5cm by 1.5cm
the top bits are especially fragile, I need to make them as strong/thick as possible, but they're ending up very airy with little infil for some reason

How does the TEVO Tornado measure up against the Ender 3 and its Pro version? I've seen some shady shit about them buying reviews but I haven't actually seen a great amount of negative stuff on the printer. Is it any better or worse than the Ender 3? How's it fare for precision work/small detail?

>>1637738
What are you going to use the printer for?

>>1637739
Planning on printing small models, up to around 20cm long for largest sizes. Mostly I'm concerned with getting smooth finishes and achieving a good level of detail. I don't care if its slow, although I would prefer to not have to do a million modifications out of the box.

>>1637741
Then unless you need the best detail, which is a resin printer, just buy something like the anycubic 4max, since it comes with an enclosure and should be able to handle ABS out of the box with minimal sealing for keeping the heat in.

ABS can be smoothed with nail polish, unless you're just going to paint them then PLA will be fine and easier to work with.

Just buy a nozzle set with it, 0.2mm is as low as you want to go most likely.

Dissolving filament dual extruder machines would be nice but are expensive.

>>1637744
My problem there is the increased price, I've got a bit of money coming in for it but I'm not massively excited by the large jump from the two I mentioned up to the 4max (not to mention the website for them is out of stock, and I'd rather buy new than pre-owned).

>>1637754
They're $200 on ebay if you're in the US

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-ANYCUBIC-4MAX-3D-Printer-Large-Plus-Size-FDM-DIY-Kit-Modular-With-1KG-PLA/333149282529?epid=2302136506&hash=item4d913ea0e1:g:r1wAAOSw9YdchNAH

>>1637755
In Australia, so resellers crank their prices up. Just to clarify, what would be the better printer for ABS out of the Tornado and the Ender? Is ABS the best material for smaller, finer detail?

>>1637760

ABS is the opposite of a material you'd want for small detailed parts, i don't know why that anon even mentioned it. It curls and warps a lot, so you need to baby it with enclosed build chambers to make sure the temperature around it is *just right*. It also smells bad. For good detail the best choice is uncolored "raw" PLA filament.

You really have to weigh your options - the only properly smooth finishes you're going to get are from SLA and MSLA printers. Using a small diameter nozzle on an FDM will get you close, but it's more tricky to get to work right. Downsides of SLA are that the resin is very expensive, it emits toxic fumes and it's messy (you need to wear gloves when handling it). FDM is cheap and a good all-around workhorse, but don't expect miracle smooth finishes out of it.

>>1637736
Looks like it went to shit in the chimney beams.

>>1637736
You should have slowed down the print on the chimney.

>>1637736

just saw off the top then reprint the chimney. was thinking of making this one myself. it was either this or the The Pripyat City Sign. Yea looks like you were going fast. I would have printed the whole thing in 40mm/s just to be safe.

printed my first test dog with ender 3x
came out perfect except one of the layers was a bit messed up and it split
don't know if it's a big deal or a freak accident

>>1637812
You didnt see shit. Because its not there.

I'm done. Spent last 2 days finishing this gun.
This is my own 3D model, I made it in Blender myself.

>>1638026
sick as fuck, anon

>>1638028
blood, sweat and tears

>>1638030
>>1638026
man that's a crazy amount of detail
meanwhile, I spray painted my test dog green

>>1638030
>>1638026
Really nice will the magazine(is that the right term for it?) click in place and spin?

>>1638046
I never got to this level of quality on FDM. I admire people who can. I gave up on FDM and SLA. I pay a Chinese company to print my stuff as Shapeways sucks. If you exceed the file size of 64 MB they reject your model. That's not usable for anything.

>>1638049
>oh boy time to paint this print
>guess i'll just dip it in the paint can so i get even coverage

>>1638047
The barrel rotates

>>1638050
Yeah, I suck a painting... My strength is 3D modeling in Blender.

>>1638051

The detail on those gearteeth looks really good... This was done on an SLA, wasnt it?

>>1638054
those gears are ezpz with FDM provided that your printer is calibrated. Paint is filling in the layer lines.

>>1638054
It's SLS done by a random company off Aliexpress. Then I made a negative copy (mold) in silicone. Finally I mixed 2/3 resin, 1/3 brass and pored it into the mold.

>>1638055

Not at that scale, the corners can't get this sharp unless you're using a .25mm nozle or smaller, and then the printing time can get so high that i don't see anon bothering with it.

>>1638057

I see, i didn't consider SLS since there aren't any home models with it, but if a company did it, it makes sense. Why not just paint the SLS part, are you looking to make multiple copies?

>>1638062
>Not at that scale, the corners can't get this sharp unless you're using a .25mm nozle or smaller
Bullshit. This is 0.4. If you're having problems with rounded corners, you're overextruding.

>>1638062
>Why not just paint the SLS part, are you looking to make multiple copies?
I was planning on casting 30% iron/bronze/brass. If you cast metals you need to make a negative.

>>1637801
I'm completely fine with doing some finishing work if I need to, would a tiny amount of sanding/coating before painting get me a smooth enough finish on PLA?

>>1638194
Considering you want to print minis you should go for very low speed milling with a handpiece like a Dremel or similiar.
I'd recommend a carbide milling bit like pic related and gently smooth the areas without much pressure.
I can post example pictures later if you want to.

>>1638278
I'd actually really appreciate that, thanks.

Some review of the monoprice mini sla . Ive been juggling building a dlp printer (I have a 1024p projector), waiting for prusa release the source and build it, and buying the anycubic. But I dont really want to throw out $400 for the anycubic and the dlp requires modding my projector which Im not sold on. I dont use the projector much or at all but top down seems messy.
At $200 the monoprice seems like a steal. But has a lower res screen which I hope you can upgrade in the future.

>>1638293
I was hoping I'd have more time for this but I still made a quick one with a failed old print.
I used a the milling bit in the picture to basically polish the surface at around 2000 rpm, just gently scrub off the top skin of the print, even if you're not that talented with it they should end up looking better than old GW metal minis and the surface priming should add the final touch of smoothing.
Try to only do this in highly visible flat areas, the print pattern will disappear tin smaller areas anyways due to priming.
At low rpm even the cheapest chinky Dremel knockoff should be sufficient enough for this.
You could go to local dental laboratories and ask them for their old dull bits, they usualy just throw them in the trash, try not to use very sharp new ones for this as they might get stuck and drill straight into your print.
Sorry for the lack of a better picture.

>>1638330
Forgot pic, fug :-DDD

>>1638331
This one is a bit better, not a perfect job but this would be already good enough to hide all the printing patterns aftwr painting

>>1638332
>>1638331
>>1638330
Great, thanks for all that info, very helpful. Do you print slightly larger than your end goal to account for the dremel work or does the smoothing not really affect the overall shape? Also, what kind of size nozzle are you printing with?

>>1638057
>It's SLS done by a random company off Aliexpress.
How was the price compared to shapeways?

>>1638338
The octopus was printed with 0.4 and I print my actual minis with a 0.2 nozzle.
The smoothing shaves off ca 0.1mm at the points where I took off the most, so it's just like sanding, I don't add extra because they're not supposed to be precission parts and the paint will add to the mini anyways.

>>1638339
I don't have the numbers at hand but it's like half the cost.

The problem is that Shapeways algoritms crash on model upload and charge you per polygon or something. It's grossly inaccurate. The employees are also always high.

With any random 3D printing company on Aliexpress you can just show them an image of the parts and they will give you a quote. They also do smooth finish without charging an arm for it.

Shapeways is not bad per se, just the system is a clusterf...
Like they have a polygon count limit from the 90s...

>>1638342
Excellent to hear, the fact you're getting that nice a finish off just a 0.4mm (and I plan on getting a 0.2 for my actual prints once I'm a bit better) is really encouraging to know. Out of curiosity, which printer are you using in those pics?

>>1638347
Ender5

>>1638343
Shapeways fucking sucks, I always use Sculpteo.

>>1637153
that looks a lot like the markings you get when the nozzle is moving to a new layer. Depending on your slicer there is an option to randomize where that position is so the "seam" is hidden.

>>1635387
cute

Is there any recommended printing service comparison in europe? I'm looking into getting some metall parts printed without getting scammed by chinks or sandniggers.

>>1638535
What country?

>>1638537
europe

>3d printer

But honestly its a huge wasteful Gimmick

make rubbish Product , fake as fuck that breaks quicker than real article , then wires up home in unstable Firey stuff , Saved a few , but killed Everyone in the House .
Shutter Island shit there but that printer saved me a $

>>1638592
Very insightful post Anon.

>>1638592
I hope you are not in charge of anything important.

>>1638592
Tell your mother I'm sorry.

wew...

>>1638652
borosilicate glass is stronk as fuck

>>1638652
>buying a piece of glass for $20 when you can get it cut at the hardware store for $3
>shitty coating that peels off and leaves an imprint on the bottom of your prints
why

>>1638659
borosilicate glass has a coefficient of thermal expansion lower than most ceramics, and you won't pull chunks out of it removing stuckfast prints.

>>1638659

not him but i like that texture. i have the same bed.

>>1638660
the official bed is just tempered glass, not borosilicate glass, although you CAN buy real borosilicate glass for about the same price, another reason not to buy the official bed

>>1638537
What >>1638584 said. Considering shipping is alle the same here, I don't see much difference. Anyway it's Germany.

Anyone tried making their own SLS printer?

>>1638739
I mean - there must be a self-build kit. This is how I made my Prusa i3.

>>1638739
not worth the effort. massively increased complexity and especially cost for minor benefits over a good FDM machine.

>>1638343
> charge you per polygon or something
What? They've always charged for material volume, support material, and machine space. It's fucking expensive, but it's definitely not per polygon.

>>1638739
It has been done, but the result was worse than most FDM printers. Turns out making a good SLS machine is hard.

>>1638535
Not a comparison but i can recommend this: metalprinting.hu
They did stuff for us which turned out fine.

>>1638783
It is per polygon once you get to high mesh density.

>>1635387
>>1635416
>>1638525

I redid the 1x2x3 floppy cube with stickers. Looks less ugly

>>1638836
It is also insanely easy to solve where I accidentally solve it while trying to scramble it. I'm planning on printing a 2x2 cube or a 2x3 cube.

>>1634749
I paid 200 for my FDM Prusa i3 kit. That shit is a fire hazard. The best printer I have is SLA but the shit distends the parts so they don't fit together. This is why I pay for prints.

>>1634881
UV resins I use smell like cancer.

>>1638047
>magazine
>>1638051
>barrel

cylinder

>>1638851
Honestly surprised /k/ isn't more active in this general

>>1638675
I'm asking because I work with laser sintered metals professionally and I'm also from Germany.
If you give me an idea what you're trying to print I can at least give you an idea how much you should/shouldn't pay.

>>1638836
Way cuter this way imo.
Now if you can, try to work on your tolerances / recalibration.
It will make the next print more curate.

>>1638355
Thanks doc

>>1634927
Old 3d systems cjp machines can be bought quite cheaply.

>>1638741
There is a SLS kit in the mentioned in the pasta.

So I went ahead printing Hero Me Gen3 for the ender 3. will be done in 24+ hours. Used the best filament I had, extreme silky uv pink by atomic filament. I hope it's worth it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917

is it worth it? lol

>>1639182
kind of pointless to print overhaul upgrades for stock hardware.

>>1639193

what would you suggest upgrading hardware wise without changing the entire printer?

>>1639196
an all-metal hotend

>>1639197

that's like the last thing I have upgraded on my printer. I always thought it was more for petg and abs, is it a lot better even when you still use pla? i like pla a lot.

>>1639201
no but pla is shit unless you only print decorative shit. you can't print any of the fun and useful materials without one.

>>1639211

okay you have convinced me into investing in the hotend, might as well at this point since i upgraded everything else, including a bltouch sensor. don't i still need insulation though for abs and petg?

>>1639217

sorry i meant enclosure*. i would buy one but they are crazy expensive like $200 for a cutout enclosure.

>>1639217
>>1639218
you need an enclosure for ABS, and having one is beneficial for Nylon. Those acrylic shell enclosures suck because the acrylic leaks heat, you can build a much more effective one for much less money with some kind of board insulation from a hardware store and some aluminum tape. May want to cover the inside of the insulation with something non-flammable though, maybe even some of the aluminum tape, since foam burns very quickly. I've even seen people get away with putting cardboard boxes over their printers.

>>1639222

it would be nice to print in nylon. that material is crazy strong. i'll look more into it thanks.

>>1639225
Nylon should be kept in a dry box as well for the best results, so get a plastic container and cut a hole in it to run the filament through, there's 3d printable threaded things to help plug the hole as well.

If I were to get nylon I'd probably just make a bunch of replica firearms

Like this thing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961881

I can't find many designs for sprues with parts for models. Is printing sprues particularly difficult or something?

>>1639301
Like printing out a sprue or a mold for one? there's no point in actually printing one out

>>1639307
I didn't think a printed mold would be suitable for casting. I was thinking print a sprue, use it to make a mold and then cast your sprues from that.

>>1639301
i just added spurs to my model, the first time a tried i just printed some small cylinders and glued them on but had better results just sticking on some boxes. as an update, even with the wrong silicone for the mold i did over a dozen casting and there was no loss of detail

>>1639315
You can print molds just fine

>>1639222
>>1639218
>$200 for an enclosure
Just get pic related for literally 10x less

>>1638904
I'm just glad no one said
>clip

>>1638904
I'm just glad no one said
>clip

Whats the best kind of primer to use on PLA prints if I'm planning on painting? Anything in particular to steer clear of?

>>1639396
rustoleum high build filler primer

Hey guys, I've been having under/over extrusion problems on my Prusa i3 mk3. It will underextrude on one part of the print surface, and I'll get overextrusion wrinkles on another.

I've done the nylock leveling mod, so the heatbed should be pretty flat (in that regard). I was told the heatbed could have warping internally, and was told to put a sheet of glass over it and print on that to eliminate the warping from moving to the print surface. I did all that, and am still seeing the problem. Is there a way to set live z-adjusts for areas of the bed? I know this is kind of what the mesh leveling tries to do, but I want to know if this is something I can set manually.

upgraded complete for hero gen 3. was pain but worth it. it does cool parts much better.

>>1639713

>>1639713
neat, I printed it out but I haven't installed it yet, already had gen2 so I'm going to try gen3 with the lightweight 5015 ducts

>>1639715
tourbillon?

>>1639716

good catch yes.

>>1639721
screw head too big, guess I'll just have the one screw holding in the fan duct

>>1639713
>>1639715
>>1639778
should have done this one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906391
that hero or whatever is way too big and complicated

>>1639806
Too much acetone, I take it?

>>1639817
>axial fans
doubt

>>1639821
don't like axial?
have a blower
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792412

>>1639458
Manual mesh leveling is a feature in Marlin. Check into it.

I have a question about steppers - the pancake i'm using on my Titan aero is struggling with anything above 40mm/s and gets rather hot trying to keep up with 6+ hour prints. I'd like to put something beefier on, but i'm at a dilemma on whether to get E3D's "compact but powerful" motor that's not really that compact, or an actually compact 1.8dg motor with adequate torque. Does using 200 steps instead of 400 affect print quality or is it a good tradeoff? I read somewhere that 200 will result is faint "pulsing" artefacts in straight sections without sufficient gearing.


>>1639211

If you heat-treat PLA it outperforms PETG and ABS in heat resistance though, assuming you don't mind the deformations.

New Thread: >>1639870

>>1637875
Looks really nice. My ender tended to miss layers because of small gaps between the hotend and ptfe tube. It was very obvious in prints with small layer heights where it usually caused delamination.