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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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160981 No.160981 [Reply] [Original]

How can I set up a home in the same type of cage pictured for a new bunny I am getting? I need to do it on a budget cause I am a student with not much money. What do I need to add to a cage and what can be made at home, to decrease the cost of buying new rabbit cage items?

>> No.160989

I had a pet rabbit as a kid. We built a rectangular frame out of wood and used a staple gun to put wire mesh on it. The bottom was wire mesh and it was raised above the ground so the poop could fall ou. There was a hinged door on the front to take it out for walks. It had one of those drip water bottles for guinea pigs. Rabits are pretty docile; they won't try to break out.

There's some old electric ovens in my basement I've considered converting to rabbit cages. They already have doors and mesh floors. Really any large metal, plastic, or wood box could be used with a few modifications.

>> No.160993

>>160989
Also it had a little metal roof because it was outside and rabbits don't like rain and snow.

>> No.160997
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160997

If the bottom of the cage is wire/mesh, make sure there's a board or pad the rabbit can lay on. Rabbits' hocks (fur on bottom of feet) get sore after long periods without a form of relief.

Also, some owners litter train their rabbits and let them loose in a small room. Litter training isn't easy, but the hardest part is rabbit proofing a room.

>> No.161032

I built a cage for my rabbit out of plywood and shelving cubes, or NIC (Neat Idea Cubes) grids, held together with 4" cable ties. Added some laminate flooring and casters on the bottom, the whole set-up cost me about $120 USD and measures 3 1/2 ft tall, 4'8" wide, and 2'4" deep.

Make sure to keep a few things in mind: Rabbits need some kind of covering on a wire mesh floor, since they don't have any muscle or fat on the bottoms of their feet, and they need at least 3 hours of exercise a day, meaning you will have to let it out to run around, so access to the floor is a good idea too (rabbits don't like being picked up usually; mine flails every time I grab him).

Unless you have a dwarf or mini breed of rabbit (something that will never get over 5lbs. in weight) your cage is probably too small, as are most store-bought cages. I would look into expansion from the front door, maybe an exercise pen made for small animals that you can hook up to the cage.

>>160997
Litter training is actually quite easy with rabbits, as they are naturally inclined to eliminate in the same spot (usually a corner); just place the pan where they go and move any errant droppings to the pan; they learn rather fast. Toss hay in the litter pan as well as they tend to eliminate while they eat.

>> No.161124

How big is your rabbit? Makes a big difference, but, best way to set it up for an incredibly happy rabbit is to buy a dog kennel for medium to large dogs. The most important thing to remember is that your bunny gets lots of time outside the cage though, if you're not planning on that, don't get a rabbit.
For making sure it's entertained, get a box and cut maybe one or two holes in it, your rabbit will set upon 'redecorating it' by themselves.
Do NOT get any sort of cage with a wire/mesh bottom, it'll fuck up your rabbit's feet. DO litter train your rabbit,it's easy as shit. After living in their cage for two days they will decide where the 'toilet' is. All you have to do is put in a litter box there and your done. Avoid any sandy litter or clay, they sell corn litter, but it's not good if your rabbit enjoys eating the litter as corn is potentially fatal to rabbits. You can use hay, but separate it from the hay intended for eating, wood shavings are also popular and probably the safest next to things like newspaper and carefresh. It's also stupidly cheap, a large bag will last you at least half a year if not longer and costs around $20. You will not need to line the rest of the cage if you litter train your rabbit, however some enjoy having something soft to lay on, I put an old rug in the corner of the kennel and she loves that shit.

>> No.161127
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161127

>>161124
Your rabbit should be able to stand up on it's hind legs, lay itself out all stretched out, and be able to (obviously) turn around and move around in it's new cage, but you should know rabbits are needy and sociable and should Really be allowed to be out often.
Pic related, her litter box and food are in the front of the cage (easy to fill/change). A thing about the litter box though, if you have a kennel like this, you need to secure the box to the bars so they won't be able to flip over the box and get everything everywhere... (An old plastic box/deep and wide tupperware will work)

>> No.161131

Rabbits dont belong in cages any more than cats do.

Just litter train it and have a house rabbit, instant 100% quality of life improvement for your bunny.

>> No.161134

>>161131

rabbits take almost no time to litter train, just make sure you have all wires out of reach.

>> No.161220

>step one: draw a picture of a rabbit house.
>step two: buy enough wood/mesh to make the rabbit house.
>step three: build the fucking rabbit house.

>> No.161249

>>161131
loves rabbit piss