/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1594324
>>1594589
Theres no need to fight.

All stock Ender 3; 0.2mm lh; 207°C

I'm honestly quite suprised how well it turned out, especially the bridging.
To be fair, I used excessive coasting and wall wiping but I do all prints like this so I don't consider it cheating.
I can share gcode and cura profile if anyone is interested.

Fun fact: I didn't even do any extruder/axis calibration etc. This is the first test model I've ever done.

Together with
>>1594336
>>1594771
It's 2:0 against custom fan guides on the Ender

Now it's 3:0 against custom fan guides anon. Here's test block #3 using a Bullseye fang V2. Again, same GCode as the other two. 1/4

2/4
>stringing: identical
>imperfections:identical

3/4
>bridging: identical
>clearances: identical

Left: stock
Middle: One piece duct
Right: Bullseye Fangduct
This is the only pic showing any difference at all and my potato quality camera can't really show it. At 80 degrees the overhang holds ever so slightly better using a fang duct. That's it.
So my conclusion to all this is follows.
>Custom cooling ducts on the ender 3
>Improvement? Not really.
>worth it? Not really.
>Get your slicer settings right instead.
I'll keep the fang one I have installed simply because it's a pain to get off though.

To keep the test cube printing going, I'm doing it again. Only this time using amazonbasics pearl white. To get a feel for the filament I'm using stock cura "normal" settings; the only change is layer height went from .15 to .16 mm.
This time around it's not so much to get rid of filament I don't like and more to tune the printer to what I'm printing Papi out of.

One nice thing about this fan duct system is there's lots of empty space around the nozzle. I didn't think anything of it but being able to see and clean the nozzle real easy might make a fang duct worth printing after all.

>>1595291
Nice! That looks very similar to mine, though the bright orange is easier to see.
BTW, have any of you guys tried a 1mm nozzle? I have an all metal hot end that takes 3mm filament that I was thinking of building a printer with for high speed/large scale prints.

>>1595327
I ran with a 0.8 for a while. While it absolutely sucked for smaller prints and detail didn't exist it was God's gift to larger parts and mechanical pieces. If you have a small printer for fine stuff already I say go for it.

Does anyone else have a problem with PID autotune? When I run it, it gets worse results than the stock values. Bed PID autotune is fine, though. But the print doesn't even start because the hotend is fluctuating so much (I guess).

>>1595291
Could I get the cura profile?

I want to buy one of the cheap chink ABL sensors like this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LJC18A3-H-Z-BX-Capacitive-proximity-switches-10MM/32252908795.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.2.4d1ef08egH9sIK&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_537_10302_536,searchweb201603_90,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=57f3368c-7684-4c83-8ee1-6ebb53d24944-0&algo_pvid=57f3368c-7684-4c83-8ee1-6ebb53d24944&transAbTest=ae803_5

From what I've read so far, capacitive sensors is the way to go since they can be used with both a glass and a conventional print bed. Right? Will it need to be configured the same way as, say, a EZABL, and what things will I need to change in Marlin? Can anyone suggest me an article or something like that that covers everything in depth?

Thanks.

>>1595431
capacitive senors are not that precise and their trigger distance fluctuates with temperature changes

>>1595431
capacitive sensors are not that precise and their trigger distance fluctuates with temperature changes

>>1595431
I'd recommend a "3DTouch". It's a BLTouch clone, just as good but it costs nearly nothing. How it works is that it drops a pin, and when the pin touches something a magnet sucks it back into the device, where it triggers an inductive sensor. The benefit is that it's designed to work on the 5V your printer runs, unlike nearly all those industrial capacitive and inductive sensors, which are made to run on something like 12V.

All stocked for May

>>1595495
Pew Pew

hey /3DPG/ I'm new to printing since my friend gave me his old modified cube printer. I am ready to buy something for myself so I can use slicer software and have more control. I also want a heated bed.

Looking at buying a monoprice maker select v2

What are your guys thoughts?

>>1595509
Monoprice is a weird brand, all of their printers are shockingly high quality for the price range but no one buys them because Monoprice is a sound system brand and it's such a weird area for them to diversify into it turns people off
Theres very little community support for the MPs outside of the mini, and it's almost a must to change out the cheap clone for the real E3D hotend, it's kind of amusing that they straight out admit that the hot ends the printers come with are Chinese clones of the E3DV6, or 5 depending on how old your printer is.

>>1595319
>One nice thing about this fan duct system is there's lots of empty space around the nozzle. I didn't think anything of it but being able to see and clean the nozzle real easy might make a fang duct worth printing after all.

The stock ender 3 prints nearly flawless; the whole point of fan mods is for convenience and fan protection. The stock fans suck up plastic and eventually die. Also if you upgrade to a bigger blower you're going to need a custom duct anyways.

>>1595509
Why does anyone buy anything other than an ender 3 at it's price point? Just the amount of experience and community support is worth it. All of the major flaws are pretty much already known.

Also what's wrong with the cube whatever printer? Can't you flash the mainboard with a generic marlin firmware?

>>1595477
also humidity

>>1595521
>Also what's wrong with the cube whatever printer? Can't you flash the mainboard with a generic marlin firmware?

If you can please point me in the right direction. The cube actually prints well but using the proprietary cartridges is a pain in the ass and they wear out often and cost ~ 40 bucks a pop. It also doesn't have a heated bed.

>ender 3
I don't want anything bowden

>>1595529
I assume it's the cube 3 since you wont actually say what it is you have?

I found some firmware hacks just by searching youtube, but yeah this shit looks too complicated for some one like you. A /diy/er would've disassembled the printer, ripped out the mainboard and wired their own generic after market board to the servo's. Even direct drive ender 3 mods are too complicated, you should just buy your monoprice and be happy with it.

>>1595382
thats pretty bad, why did you try it in the first place? stock is pretty damn good

>>1595560
I changed it back, but it still does the thing where Octoprint won't start printing because it changes too much.

I want to convert my Prusa MK2 to use high-temperature materials. What do I need to know in order to not burn my place down and melt the printer in the process? How do I edit the firmware to have a higher maxtemp?

>>1595638
What materials and what temperatures?

>>1595490
>>1595477
Yes but that shouldn't be a problem if there aren't wild fluctuations during probing. The only real problem of this particular sensor is how to power it, but then again, it takes 6 to 36V DC, so I can basically hook it up directly to the output of the printer's PSU.

Isn't the EZABL a capacitive sensor as well?

>>1595509
I have the ALDI variant of that and i'd suggest getting an Ender 3 or CR-10 instead assuming you're buying anew. They're really not worth it nowadays and I had to modify mine significantly before it was stable at higher speeds. The stock controller board also lacks expandability meaning you need a RAMPS or similar if you want to install a BLTouch for example.

Even out of the box it has a number of electrical flaws such as the infamous heated bed connector as well as the stepper motor current being set too high. So far i've been lucky, with the worst thing being the power supply arcing and then exploding just the other week.

>>1595649
350C+; polycarbonate, ultem, PEEK, and related.

>>1595678
>ultem, PEEK
are you aware that this stuff costs $1000/kg?
You'd also need a heated enclosure and the MK2 with it's plastic parts isn't a printer that likes to be heated.
If you want to print tough have a look a fiber enforced filaments.

>>1595273
Why not buying prusa for $300?

Also another thing I would like to ask is how you 3D print a dildo? What filament is best when we consider the fact that it will get wet and we want subjects to remain healthy?

>>1595692
Prusas arent $300.

Also print a dick, make a mold cast with resin or silicone or some shit. Then cast a dildo in the same material.

>>1595698
>>1595692
based and redpilled

>Listening to radio chat show
>They start talking about 3D printers
>"Why do you think they never really took off"?
>"Because they're so ugly"
>"Doesn't look good in your home"
>"I think the idea was to be able to buy anything on ebay or amazon and print it at home"
>"But that never happened"
>"How do they work?"
Sooo this is what normies think of 3D printing....

>>1595685
Fibre filaments are a meme and give you AIDS.

>>1595730
a 3D printer is a CNC machine
imagine giving a CNC machine to a normie: how and why?

>>1595735
yeah but they got marketed as star-trek replicators

>>1595698
He's probably talking about a clone.

>>1595319
What temp are you printing at?
Consider getting a 5015 blower fan (coupled with 200uF capacitor) and printing the petsfang for it. The blower will dramatically increase the quality of your overhangs.
Calibrate your extruder, the stock extruder on my cr10 was over extruding from the factory.

>>1595744
Also get an enclosure or at least a draught shield; that's why your corners are lifting.

>>1595738
>believing mainstream media
Have they ever not fucked up the facts?

>>1595291
>>1595307
>>1595306
May it be possible that he quality of the stock blower fan of the ender 3 varies wildly? I've always had bad overhangs with mine until ive switched to a ducted mount. It also made weird noises when running at lower rpm. I am using a double 5015 blower fan setup atm which is overkill. but damn those bridges and overhangz are sexy af now.

R99>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Peacekeeper

fight me

>>1595763
Wat?

>>1595768
shit wrong thread

>>1595769
Oh.
Keep fighting the good fight anon.

>>1595730
REEEE!

>>1595750
The stock fan was always shit. The strange noises at low rpm is because they're trying to run a regular DC fan with PWM and there's no capacitor to smooth out the current.

Warping is caused by the top cooling faster than the bottom right? So wouldn't reducing the bed temp reduce this problem? Because then there will be a smaller difference in top and bottom layer temp.

Also fuck people who claimed that PETG doesn't warp, I've gone through three four-hour prints so far trying to get the warping to stop. I've now switched the fan off, turned up my home heating to 25 degrees and am praying.

There are a million different Creality printers, why does everyone buy the Ender 3?

>>1595801
Because its the most memed/shilled. It's not the best, just the cheapest one that works well enough

>>1595803
>>1595801
Best value per dollar, really. The cheapest Creality that doesn't suck.
>CR-10 is too expensive
>Ender 2, 4, 5 have shitty kinematics

>>1595806
I was going to buy an Ender 3 but the guy at the store said that the CR-20 was better and it was only £230 so I bought it. So far I've had no problems with it.

>>1595819
He was right, and at 230 britdollars you got a very good deal.

Can a pernament spring be 3d printed with pla?
I have a battery container and i need the battery to be pushed against to have a contact, but anything i tried just works for the first day or so and then the plastic loses the tension remains in the bent position

>>1595840
I dont think that this will work, PLA has the tendecy to move out of the way of a force. If i had to build something like this i would have to build something like this i would use TPE filament or Nylon and dont use a classic spring design. If you have to do it you could try and anneal the PLA after printing the spring, probaly is better but still wont last long.

>>1595730
>Normies being retarded
Why are you surprised?

>>1595840
Springs rely on elastic deformation. PLA is rigid and brittle. The amount of travel you could safely get from it would be tiny and exceeding it at all will rapidly destroy it. Steel, on the other hand, can get essentially an unlimited number of stress cycles before deforming if the stress remains under a certain amplitude.

>>1595730
>"Why do you think they never really took off"?
But they did. an insane amount of people owns one
and why are those retarded normies talking in past tense?
consumer 3d printers are still only in diapers, they are where home dos computers were basically
and just like 3mm thick super computers that fit in your pocket today, we will have probably replicator tier printers one day but just like computers it will get there gradually, but in not so distant future owning a 3d printer will be just a common as owning a z dimension challenged printer is today

>>1595849
You could probably get away with PETG and something like that

>>1595853
Last time i checked hotends cannot melt steel beams.
I guess i will have to chink out once again and order a bag of 100 battery pads with spring for a dollar.
God damn it, chinks selling everything and for basically free and with free shipping is just taking all the fun from 3d printing.

>>1595857
If you want to make a spring yourself, it's not that to do out of piano wire.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAawhg6JtyY

>>1595857
Already tried that, but it presented the same problems i described.
I only have pla so i guess it just cannot be done with just pla

>>1595855
>>1595859

>>1595859
You should really try out PETG, it's worth it.

>>1595857
try PETG it's kinda springy.

>>1595857
I have been where you are right now
I solved it by not using a spring mechanism but by making the contacts really big. I used a pattern of 8 holes and wrapped a long wire in a star pattern through the holes.
It still doesn't work as well as a metal spring and if I could go back I would just buy a pack of ten or whatever from China Amazon. You could also go to a thrift shop or garage sale and cannibalize some other device for its battery holder.

>>1595750
Funny you should mention that. I'm the anon that posted those lousily printed test cubes and immediately after installing the bullseye my blower fan started doing the same thing: making plastic grindy noise at low RPM and being shitty. I indulged and bought a 4 pack of ball bearing 5015s with the intention of using them in place of all the cooling fans since they're so much quieter. That and RPi cameras can be had for $10 now means it's time to consider octoprint again.

>>1595797
I read a good rule of thumb for warping on the bed you might consider:
>If it's PLA, your bed's too hot
>If it's anything else, your bed's too cold
I have good luck with PLA when I drop the bed temperature and crank the first layer extruder temp 10-15 over normal. It sticks better to a glass bed this way at least.

Anyone have a store or link to where I can buy the cats in the op pic

>>1595953
I have my printer on a wi-fi plug and I have Octoprint set up - being able to turn on the printer, send a print, watch the print and catch a timelapse, then turn off my printer all without getting out of my chair is a great convenience.

I'd use Octoprint's timelapse to diagnose print failures but my printer and slicer are dialed in to the point where I don't get failures or if I do I don't need a timelapse to figure out that I forgot to turn on supports.

>>1595977
bendy-cat, sad-cat, or half-cat?

>>1595990
All 3, preferably half cat

>>1596004
for the half cat
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3018404

use lots of supports and a large brim there is almost no surface area on the print bed. took me 4 attempts.

>>1595956
I re-levelled the bed and the warping reduced but is still there. Currently trying a raft. I am printing PETG at 225/75˚C. When I had the heated at 90˚C it still warped, the levelling has made the most difference so far. If the raft doesn't work I'll retry it at 90 and if that fails I will just give up, cut it in half and print it as two shorter pieces

>>1595273
ever since I got the additional independent Z drive for the duet its been 100% hands off, most of my prints are replacement parts now for other tools I use constantly for coffee and cooking/filming so I just load up saved gcode and it runs on its own.
no print failures with locked in settings for 4 months/ 3kg of filament now.

>>1596011
Thanks anon but i meant to purchase the actual half-cat, I don't have a 3d printer myself. Would you make and sell me one?

>>1596041
There's an "order this printed" button on the linked page

>>1595990
I need the sad cat, where is that one?

Any of you guys using a piezo z stop? Thinking about springing for one. Is the Precision kit any better than the Triangle labs one on Ebay?

>>1596013
For the longest time ever I had a massive dip in the center of my bed. Even the glass bed bowed in the center. Then it hit me: the bed will only hit half what it takes to ignite paper and that's maxed out. So I stuck pieces of paper about 4" square between the glass and the bed. Three of them stacked in the center of my bed and it's now as flat as I could ever hope for! This is probably a bad idea, but a flat bed has made printing so much easier that I can't part with it. If you look at >>1595306 you can clearly see the white piece of paper under the glass bed.

>>1596124
Why not stick aluminium foil under instead of paper. It has 0 chance of catching fire and will transfer heat to the glass bed much better.

>>1595685
Yes, I know. The heated enclosure bit is fine, I can make one if I need to - I was planning on reprinting at least parts of the printer out of PETG or something more heat-tolerant anyway. I need specifically those materials, not any fiber ones (yet).

>>1596091
>Triangle labs ...on Ebay
aint they selling their stuff cheaper on ali?

>>1595956
Maybe it's just me but I had to lower bed temp for petg. 65 is perfect but my corners start to pop up around 70.

>>1596013
What brand of petg? 225 seams really low. I use esun and the lowest I could go was 240 before I ran into problems. My best prints were around 265 save for a little stringing.

>>1595685
what possible reason would a normal person have to buy this filament

>also available:
>PEKEKK
>Polyetherketoneetherketoneketone

>>1596226

Tried printing some ASA today! Enclosure out of a cardboard box, some mdf and some tape. Too bad I ran another print and forgot that the nozzle's travel path intersects with the print, which then proceeds to jam itself into the previous print.

Printed such that the two smaller holes are along the Y axis, 60mm/s print speed, wall speed of 30mm/s, acceleration of 800mm/s/s, and jerk of 20mm/s/s/s. Any tips on getting those ripples from the side? I don't get those with walls that are parallel to a single axis. Belts have been tightened, bed's been levelled and I've got nothing but a dinky cooler on the extruder end of an i3. I usually don't print big curvy things with PLA, but now that I'm moving onto ASA I would like to fix this issue.

>>1596091
If it's just an endstop it's not worth it, the cheapest most basic microswitch is precise enough for that.

>>1596246
Yeah I was wondering why you would need anything other than a microswitch. maybe not the cheapest one, but one that is rated for a fairly high number of presses.

>>1595692
Only filament I've found so far that's seems very likely to be safe to put in your body is Forefront Flex 41. It's polypropylene. I'm working on modifying my printer to run a Smoothieboard cpu and v6 with all stainless steel hot parts (brass can leave lead in prints; probably not a harmful amount, but I love my partner too much to try it) so I can print it (and other things, but this project started the journey). To be clear, PP is a semiflex, not a proper flexible. But I plan on testing various infill and outer layer settings to get the right flexibility. I plan on sanding it and possibly sealing it, or at least sanitizing it after each use (I'll put holes in it so bleach can reach the infill).

Really though, the ideal method is printing a mold and casting using silicon or something. I'd do that in a heartbeat, but I already have way too much shit in my room. Maybe when I move out I'll get the silicon, vacuum chamber, various sprays, and all the other shit you need for it.

>>1596278
The process of 3D printing leaving the layer lines means literally any filament other than MAYBE a smoothed ABS would be a horrible idea to put in your body. Too many places for bacteria to grow and hide. Only way it would be even remotely safe to use a 3D printed dildo is if you stored it in a jug of barbicide or some shit like a barbers combs.

>>1596279
Or just put a condom over it.

>>1596280
Well if youre gonna buy a pack of condoms once a week for your dildo you may as well be an economical faggot and just buy a dildo, can throw those fuckers in the washing machine.

>>1596279
Hence the part where I sand it, and probably seal it in silicone spray, and either use several outer layers or print drainage holes in it so I can bleach. And again, bleach is only necessary if bacteria crawl through the conformal silicon sealant, which will fill in or cover up any gaps that sure 600 grit sandpaper paper. I blew $200 on a new hotend and CPU, and pricey filament, after doing a tons of research. I'm not just throwing shit at the wall. If you have reason to believe silicon sealant will fail to do it's job then please, explain why. I'd also like to know how something sure regular cleanings and not even show up as a moldy spot that would instantly send up red flags. I'd throw it out instantly if I saw that shit.
>>1596279
If I don't end up finding a good silicone or polyeurythane sealant, yes. This, and bleach.

Anyone used this stuff before? I got a roll from work since nobody ever used it but I can't find much info about it other than "PETG based".

>>1596284
A) You try shipping a dildo to your parent's house. When bad dragon starts shipping to Amazon lockers or you're able to pick a "pick up at post office" option, then we'll talk.
B) You're forgeting one of the benefits of 3d printing: I can make my own designs. My partner literally drew the siloutte and gave me measurements and other details. Get fucked, Bad Dragon.

>>1596284
I'm guessing these faggots don't want to get caught by their mother when they have a dildo delivered to their basement.

>>1596287
>>1596289
Everything Amazon has shipped in the last forever comes in an Amazon box or envelope, so unless your mom opens your mail you're good.
>>1596285
Just because its not moldy doesn't mean its clean anon... But yea seal it, it'd be more fun to dick around with investment casting though.

>>1596289
Yup. Not a fag though. Am a man. Partner is a femoid. Have a good job, will be moving out within a year. Getting a car within a few months. Partner moving in with me after. I just enjoy some degeneracy with the woman I adore. So, "degenerate faggot dragging society down while bitching about being an oppressed gamer," no. "Degenerate faggot with his shit together but not quite a pillar of society yet," sure.

>>1596293
Yeah, yeah, every man only buys a dildo for his "partner".

You can check the amazon review "Anal super driller prostate massager for men" and all reviews will say something like "My (female) partner really enjoyed this toy"

>>1596293
>femoid
>partner
just call her your girlfriend, holy shit

>>1596292
True. Im a but of a pussy though. And desu, shopping on amazon has gotten annoying lately. So many knock offs and incorrect listings. I don't like the idea of getting something as personal as a sex toy from them and having it be used and returned or made of lead or some shit. I just don't known what brand names are good either. I carried a ton of shame about sex for years (still do) and ive never shopped for this shit before. I'd actually love to order a bad dragon for her, but there Amazon listings are so rare that they're sketchy and I don't 100% trust the "silicone statue" disguise packaging from their site. I know I overthink this stuff. It's a problem.

I agree with the casting thing. When I move out and get more room, I'm going to buy the stuff for silicon molding. Right after I buy my first gun.

>>1596295
Yeah idk why I did that in this thread desu. Probably because I'm still really guarded about saying anything about her and sex, and it carries over even when I'm anonymous, so I avoid words that even specify her gender at times when I'm online. A co-worker said I was too much of a gentleman about it once, lol. The femoid thing was a joke though. We're both degenerates at times. She's called me an incel on multiple occasions.

>>1596296
...why did autocorrect say "desu"..... I've literally never used that word in my life because I don't even understand it's meaning. Also, I'm not THAT much of a degenerate, fuck.

>>1596297
Ok the joke's on me. When did 4chan start correcting T o B e H onest to desu? Hahaha.

>>1596299
For years, you stupid faggot.
Post your blogs somewhere else.

>>1596287
C) You can even download models from Bad Dragon and print it for free. Get fucked, Bad Dragon.

>>1596298
4chan auto replaces certain shit with desu and senpai, forgot what terms though.

95% positive an Amazon seller with good reviews wouldnt resell returned products, and if they did you can bet your left nut its been soaked in bleach, alcohol, barbacide, and made out with an ozone machine.

I have filament just lying around without a filament spool.
How can i use them without constantly needing to check if the filament is tangled up or not?

>>1596308
put it on a spool

>>1596260
>>1596246
It's for mesh leveling; you have that apparatus rigged up to your hot end, that lets you use your nozze tip as the sensor. Supposed to be more accurate/repeatable that inductives & probes.

>>1596309
Duhh.
Forgot to mention I have none right now.

>>1596311
print yourself a spool

>>1596313
thanks

>Good news: 100% concentric infill came out BEAUTIFULLY, including the overhang
>Bad news: Ran out of filament 80-something% through the print
Also, PLA at 100% infill is a lot stronger than I anticipated.

>>1596319
I wish S3D would put more types of infill and supports

>>1596319
>Falling for the 100% infill meme
I think you could have gone 50% and like 6 walls instead of 3 and have been good enough to last.

>>1596325
It's a vise block, so it really needs to be as sturdy as possible.

>>1596326
I know what it is. How hard do you really need to crank down your vise to work on a rifle? How resistant do you think 50% infill is vs 100?

>>1596328
Well, considering that I could end up damaging very expensive components if it slips, I'd like to crank it down pretty tight.
The trigger alone is over 300 bucks.

>>1596124
the glass bends because you've clipped it on.
Another approach is to either shim with kapton tape or get a silicon Heat conductive pad between the glass and bed. This will hold the bed without adhesive or clips and wont stress the glass

>>1596205
Formfutura HDglass. 225 is what it recommended on the spool. I woke up to the finished print this morning, I took it off the bed and started another print at 240/90. You can see last night's 225/75 print to the left of the currently ongoing one. The raft helped a lot with the warping but one layer didn't seem to adhere well and you can see where it has separated along with lots of stringing. The ongoing print on the right looks a lot better but there is still a slight gap at the same Z level if you look carefully. I'm hoping it doesn't separate. Both prints have the fan switched off by the way.
>265
Reddit says that the PTFE lined stock hotend will degrade above 240 and give you brain damage.

>>1596331
It took some searching. Nobody makes these in the right size, but if an anon bought two of link related and cut them it could work. But on the flip side, that's about half the cost of a new replacement bed. It's a worthwhile idea at least.
https://amzn.com/B007PPEW52

>>1596205
>PETG
>225 seems really low
PETG brands and mixtures vary greatly in temperature range. I used M4P PETG which is rated at 255C. Currently I'm using "Das Filament" PETG which is rated at 230C

>240 teflon degrading brain damage
Bullshit, I do lot's of prints at 260 and my teflon hose is fine. Maybe if your hose is shitty.
Teflon is used in frying pans and people seem to survive using them.

>>1596366
Oil when frying is usually in the 180-200 range.

>>1596366
>>1596375
This is Wikipedia's take on it:
>Pyrolysis of PTFE is detectable at 200 °C (392 °F), and it evolves several fluorocarbon gases and a sublimate. An animal study conducted in 1955 concluded that it is unlikely that these products would be generated in amounts significant to health at temperatures below 250 °C (482 °F).[33]
>While PTFE is stable and nontoxic at lower temperatures, it begins to deteriorate after the temperature of cookware reaches about 260 °C (500 °F), and decomposes above 350 °C (662 °F).[57] The degradation by-products can be lethal to birds,[58] and can cause flu-like symptoms[59] in humans—see polymer fume fever. Meat is usually fried between 204 and 232 °C (399 and 450 °F), and most oils start to smoke before a temperature of 260 °C (500 °F) is reached, but there are at least two cooking oils (refined safflower oil at 265 °C (509 °F) and avocado oil at 271 °C (520 °F)) that have a higher smoke point.

I've given up, I'm going back to PLA. PETG is too much of a pain to print with. I've been printing 3 days straight and all the prints were faulty despite my many adjustments. They said it was an easy filament, they lied. If the PLA fan blades don't survive then I'll just pay a company to print them in something exotic.

>>1596339
What's your speed settings? In my experience, petg loves being under 30mm/s

>>1596319
I was going to ask if that was part of a Darksaber hilt but it turned out to be a vise block and I feel like a soiboi now.

Anyone have an idea to fix this?
Tried different wall size but each time the same gap between infill and walls

>>1596408
Looks like your bed may be too low.

Uploaded the flexi cat so you guys can print it too: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3576952

>>1596393
60mm/s.

>>1596460
Liked and collected

>>1596408
can you read the OP and give more info, then I might be able to help

>>1596408
Looks like >>1596443 plus some possible underextrusion. Maybe try to increase your infill overlap as well

>>1596497
All I can suggest is slowing down. I print my first layer ar 10mm/s and the rest at 30. Ymmv

>>1596505

Anycubic 4max
Ice Filament PLA
Bed 60°c / End 210°c
Printspeed 20 mm/s

>>1596408
>>1596443

>>1596506
I think this >>1596554 was the problem. Weird that it only went bad at one layer though. Maybe that one layer of filament completely failed to make it to the print. I slowed it down anyway just in case.

What nozzle is best for the Ender 3 again?

Looking to improve my results...

Yo what is wrong with my Prusa MK3S ?
This are my first tests with the Prusa PLA filament and I seem to have a kind of weird X / Y diplacement from layer to layer

halp pls

>>1596631
Also, outside layers don't stick to themselves

>>1596631
check belt tensions, and it looks like your first layer is too high if the 2nd pic is the print upside down

>>1596641
X 271
Y 288

>>1596631
That's a pretty nice overhang. Have you checked your Z axis? It needs to ride as parallel as possible to the rail.

>>1596647
The left z axis trapezoidal nut is harder to screw than the right one, so it might cause the problem

>>1596654
You really need there to be some spring tension. If it's just floating on the top travel of the spring, it'll wobble more when changing direction, which can mean spaghetti infill...
I think adding a locknut behind the adjustment knobs to prevent them walking out would be a good cheap upgrade.

>>1596657
I didn't understand a thing you said
wtf

>>1596319
PLA is not a tough material, it weathers poorly and cracks immediately when overloaded. Not a good material choice for vise jaws.

>>1596631
Kit or pre-assembled? Check your bolts and belts, looks like something might be loose. Make sure you've zip-tied the shit out of your Y rails and that the X-carriage adjustment bolt on the left side provides tension (but don't overtighten it).

>>1596657
>>1596664
Yeah, none of this makes sense to me either, I think you can ignore it.

>>1596681
It was a kit
Also, my extruder gears make a squeaky plastic sound when turning back and forth, even when I unscrew until it's very loose
I putted some lubricant so it's less noisy now

>>1596300
Sorry for newfagging.
>>1596304
They give out their models? If so, I almost feel bad now.

>>1596713
Not intentionally. They allow you a 3D preview, you can download that data with some fiddling.

>>1596657
this is what PTFE fumes do to you

>>1596857
:/

>>1596506
After slowing down the print to 40mm/s and bed re-levelling, PETG is now printing really good. Thanks bro you've saved the fan project.

I made a formula to tell me how many grams of filament are left on the spool from the thickness of the remaining reel. I don't know if it would be useful to others, I assume you all just weigh your spools but I suppose you could use the formula to mark off on the spool the remaining weight so you don't have to keep taking it off and weighing it.

>>1596345
>replacement bed
Will be shit too
Rolled sheet metall always has internal stress that results in warping.
On a printer with fixed bed you'd install a 6-8mm sheet cast aluminium plate but thats to heavy for an ender 3.

>>1596381
Capricorn says their xs tube is save up to 250. up to 275 it becomes dangerous for birds but wont desintegrate yet.
Get a tube with datasheet instead of mystery china meat

>>1596877
My CR-20 I have to re-level the bed for every print.

>>1596879
Is my CR-20 tube made out of mystery china meat?

>>1596866
Those layer line are looking a bit rough.

>>1595410
I've been drunk the past 3 days which made exporting and hosting a cura profile really difficult but there you go:
https://www54.zippyshare.com/v/G6DZF8lr/file.html

>>1596887
0.3mm

>>1596866
Glad to know it worked out. Like the other anon said though, your surface Finnish is still quite rough for petg, though I would be more concerned with fighting that sitting in your corners. Have you tried printing a temp tower?

>>1596927
*zitting

>>1596874
>weighing spools
Real G's like me look at the spool and just hope that you have enough before starting an 18-hour print

>>1596874
https://jscalc.io/calc/1Cj6c1zxnr4q8Tzw

I have a Cetus and I just swapped it's CPU for a Smoothieboard CPU. When I set the temperature, it stops at about 15C below what I set it at. PID tuning didn't help. Any advice is welcome. Also, it ignores M107 (fan off), and have no idea why. I'm about to put it on trial for insubordination.

>>1596953
>I just swapped it's CPU for a Smoothieboard CPU.
What does that even mean?
Is the control board compatible with the NXP MCU the Smoothieboard uses or something?

>>1596952
Ah someone already did it, I figured as much, it's a really simple calculation.
>>1596951
I did that until a spool ran out and the end was attached to the inside of the spool so it jammed and destroyed my extruder.

>>1596957
I believe so. I keep the original board with the drivers and connectors and all that, but there's a separate board with the controller on it. I replaced that board with a Tinyfab board. I'm pretty sure it uses the NXP controller. Software wise it's identical to a Smoothieboard from what I can tell. This is my first printer.

>>1596927
Even for 0.3mm? I'm not too bothered by it for it's a structural part. So long as it looks even. The crap in the corners annoys me more but I don't have more time and filament for more testing (it took me 3 days to get it that good), it's good enough I can just sand it off.

Maybe for the second iteration I'll try improving the quality further, for now I just want to get it built to see if it will even work.

>>1596997
Did it come with a config file for that or are using the Smoothieware defaults?

>>1596664
>>1596681
>>1596857
The elevation of the G54 is dictated not only by the Z stop, but also the springs under the build platform. If the adjustment knobs under the bed are to the point where the springs no longer have any tension on them, when the bed moves in one direction and then changes direction, the lack of spring tension will cause the entire bed to wobble. If you're printing something short, then it won't be as evident in the print quality, but as the part gets taller and taller, the effect of this bed wobble will become more and more of an issue.
I may have written that a bit blazed, but it seems pretty legible to me still now that I'm sober.

>>1596664
The anon is saying if the springs between the heated bed and the frame don't have enough pressure on them it can make the bed wobble. A wobbly bed makes for bad prints. It's why pic related are such a popular upgrade. That and being dirt cheap.

>>1597023
>>1597039
MK3S don't use springs wtf

>>1597045
I guess everyone missed that and thought you had an Ender 3.

>>1596998
I'm definitely not saying it isn't functional. Any further improvements would be icing on the cake if the current part already functions. I was commenting more on the grittiness of the layers. Generally petg, when at its ideal temp, will shimmer/shine a bit and be super smooth. You seem to have pockets and zits which could be from a number of issues. A temp tower with 3-5 degree increments would be a good test to nail down proper flow. That should also eliminate alot of that corner crud, which is usually caused by petg resistance to direction change due to its elasticity. The more fluid it is, the less the nozzle will pull it off track, and it has the added benefit of improving layer adhesion.

But by all means, if your cool with a bit of clean up and the part works as is, dont let me dissuade you from carrying on.

>>1597045
>>1597052
Yeah, that's my bad. Didn't realize you use a MK3.

i'm trying to find a vertical mount for my 19" flatrons but the only thing i can find is too big for my ender 3. would it be possible to print these in parts and try to plastic weld together with a dremel, try to find someone else who can print it, or just suck it up and buy an actual stand?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956836/

>>1596286
Give it back Tyrone

Test cube anon here. Bullseye's Petsfang, the little nameless duct, and stock fan duct all did the same for cooling the micro test cube. It's time to try one last time after going full retard on cooling with some 5015s and the Hero Me. On top of that I bought a sheet of heat conductive silicone and am using it as well. Did it fix my glass bed dipping in the center? Yes but not as well as the paper. With that said, it's sticky enough I don't need the clips in the corners of the print bed and that alone is enough to justify the cost. I pulled the shitty high temp cotton sock off the hotend and replaced it with a silicone one too.
>Silicone sheet between glass and bed - $8: FUCKING WORTH IT >https://amzn.com/B06XX7ZMN7
>Silicone sock on hot end - $7: Meh
>https://amzn.com/B07HNXJ39T
>5015s - $20: TBD
>https://amzn.com/B07DB7DLMM
>Roll of Orange PETG - $20: The color's nice
>https://amzn.com/B07H9QFF5L
That's enough buyfaggotry for now. Will post pics of test cube when it's done.

>>1597053
Thanks anon.

About to finish modeling Thorn from Destiny 2. Will try to print it using SLA.

>>1597006
It came with one.

>>1597268
The fact that you succeeded in doing that in Blender makes it 1000% more impressive.

>>1597268
>>1597276
>The fact that you succeeded in doing that in Blender
is blender not a good option? I was thinking about getting into modelling but idk what program to use

>>1597312
Blender is great if you want to model, say, a dog, and have a few hundred years to learn the interface.

A gun I would have modelled in Solidworks or some other CAD software, they're much easier to use for mechanical things even when you're making something where you're not actually bothering with any of the insides.

>>1597312
Not that guy, it's what I use to rebuild 3d scanners and pose. It could be better and handle more polys and some functions are slow but works.

>>1597312
Blender's fine, people just love to shit on it because it's free and they don't want to spend a weekend figuring out the interface. If you're wanting to get more mechanical things done, Fusion 360 is a good (also free) alternative, but for what you have there, Blender is just fine.

>>1597312
It, is what I use to rebuild 3d scanners and pose, it could be better and handle more polys but it's ok for 3d prints, I would not use it for animation or other things.

>>1597348
What you're using what is effectively an open beta with a radical UI redesign (2.8) and that 2.79 is much more established by now, in case you did not know

>>1597350
in fact it is the sculpt tools branch with a new remesh tool and other stuff, https://blender.community/c/graphicall/dcbbbc/ 2.8 has the 3d gizmo and left click select by default and they have move a few options but it's almost the same workflow.

>>1597312
Blender is fine. For a piece of FOSS, it's damn good. It's just not perfect for every situation.
3D Modeling software can be roughly divided into two categories: modeling for art and modeling for engineering. Blender is an art program. Yes, you _can_ make any shape you want in Blender; _but_, it can be difficult. Blender allows fast and detailed modeling when you're just winging and approximating the geometry; trying to create a reliably precise model is straight-up painful.
3D Printing sits at an odd intersection of art and engineering - different people are printing different things for different purposes. If you're printing tchotchkes, costume pieces, figurines, and the like then Blender is an excellent choice. If you're designing and printing components for some crazy complex and precise mechanism, then you might be better served with an engineering modeling software product.


>>1597350
They're doing another redesign? I still remember the UI overhaul from 2.49 to 2.5 - man what a change that was.

>>1597353
Duly noted, thanks for the heads up

>>1597355
I don't think it's an outright replacement, I'd be surprised if they'd drop all the features they developed up until now in 2.8+. Right now, it looks like they're trying to compete with the real-time rendering engines like Unreal and Unity.

>>1597339
Making surfaces in SW is ass. Rhino is way better for that (Look up T-splines).

>>1597312
>>1597339
>>1597346
>>1597348
>>1597355
sorry I should have been more clear, I want to get into non-mechical modeling (or 'art' modeling), I already use fusion 360 for making simple parts, but I want to branch out

so is blend the best free program for 'art' modeling?

>>1597379
'Best' can't be objectively quantified; but, subjectively, I would say 'yes'. Blender a program specifically created to be as professional as possible while remaining free. It has an enormous community - tutorials, user discussions, etc. that make picking it up and finding solutions very easy compared to other, less popular free applications.

>>1597379
Me and a friend just started watching tutorials and practicing blender for personal education, but we only meet once every two weeks. Would you like someone to learn blender with?

>>1597268
Thorn OP here

Stop whining and do your gingerbread man:

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender_3D%3A_Noob_to_Pro

The faster you do it the quicker you will get a hand of it.

>>1597348
what am i looking at here?

>>1597446
Thorn OP here

Some guy using a 3D scanner (2 overpriced webcams) to 'scan' a sculpture then importing the geometry into Blender as a model.

>>1597450
Photogrametry right? Is there a decent software package for this? And can you do it with just about any camera?

>>1597471
Adobe used to have a website called 123D where you could upload a lot of images of something (20-40 images) and it would give you a 3D model.

As long as you have consistent lighting and no mirror surfaces an average camera should do.

It's a compute-intensive processing task. The bulk of the work is done in software.

I tried that Adobe thing once and haven't used anything like it since. The resulting geometry and materials can be more efficiently done manually so you end up doing as much clean up as it takes to model everything manually.

>>1597471
>Photogrametry right?
Right, that's done with this https://alicevision.github.io and the videos from this channel https://www.youtube.com/user/denofimagination sometimes works great and sometimes the output is a piece of shit, you have to extract the images from the video and rescale to a bigger size and not always work, I use that for reference to resculpt and pose , you can pick also the images from the turnarrounds in some pages about minis like forgeworld

>>1597471
>Photogrametry right?
Right, that's done with this https://alicevision.github.io and the videos from this channel https://www.youtube.com/user/denofimagination sometimes works great and sometimes the output is a piece of shit, you have to extract the images from the video and rescale to a bigger size and not always work, I use that as reference to re-sculpt and pose , you can pick also the images from the turnarrounds in some pages about minis like forgeworld

>>1597381
>picking it up and finding solutions very easy
[citation needed]
As someone with zero experience in CAD, I found my pirated Solidworks way easier to get into than Blender, even for the few non-mech stuff I make.

>>1597471
zephyr 3df is great imo, free up to 50 images which should be enough if you are not scanning a whole city....

>>1597490
When I said "free applications" I meant what I said.

>>1597581
"Free software" doesn't automatically mean shitty GUI, nor does it excuse it. LibreOffice is free software, but it comes with a great GUI. In fact, it's a better GUI than Microsoft Office has to offer these days.

>>1597593
>"Free software" doesn't automatically mean shitty GUI
In most cases it does, and that's what sets Blender apart.

>>1597599
>nor does it excuse it
There are loads of free applications with good GUIs. paint.net, libreoffice, openoffice, google docs, fusion360, xnview... Blender has an absolutely awful UI, and that isn't excusable. Ironically, the two least free ones on my list, Fusion360 and Google Docs, are the ones with the worst UIs of the bunch.

>>1597593
Hahahaha ALL Linux uis are complete garbage. *office ui is complete garbage and *office is retarded because it takes shitty ms office and makes it 10 times worse.
Gui is a cancer, anything graphical eventually turns into retarded aids open source or not. Look at ms windows, gnome, all have turned to complete garbage.
Learn cli, love cli, cli is love, cli is life.
Write documents in .*?tex and learn true freedom.
Mark my words, Eventually all window managers will be node powered frameworks in the cloud. Abandon this ship before it drags you down with it.

>>1597605
I agree that Gnome has become pretty shitty, but Gnome Shell is still around, has more support, and Gnome was never the sole Linux GUI. If you like Windows, chances are you'll like KDE, for the rest of us are great options like awesome, dwm, elementary...

>>1597610
I don't have countless hours to install 50 different window managers to find out what dumb quirks I hate about them and then learn the codebase to fix it. I'm a busy boy you know Joe Rogan clips on YouTube don't watch themselves.
I watch them on my windows phone.

>>1597605
I think if Inventor had a command prompt like AutoCAD, it would be the fastest CAD software around.
SW only outpaces it because of all the contextual menus.

>>1597610
the only linux desktop that works and can be customized fast it's XFCE, all the others are horrible

>>1597616
If you don't have time to mess around to find what you like and customise, why the fuck are you running Linux?

>>1597616
Just use Mate.
It's Gnome from a time before they decided that it works too well and has to be replaced with the trash fire that is Gnome 3.

>>1597601
Fusion 360 isn't freeware.

>>1597666
It is. For students, hobbyist, startups and small businesses with less than $100000 annual income. I am using it for free for 2 years.

>>1597679
He means that it doesn't run GNU, or as he likes to call it, GNU plus Autodesk.

>>1597712
freeware =/= free (as in FOSS) software

Thorn OP here

> Off topic discussion, go to /g this thread is about 3D printing.

I finished modeling Thorn for my SLA pritner. It's split now for printing but I still need to add dowel holes or whatever.

>>1597712
>GNU plus Autodesk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H47ow4_Cmk0

In the latest Punished Props video, they printed a dagger with a Moai 200. When they post-cured it under UV light, they put it in a container of room-temperature water and turned the light on.

I have never heard of doing this; what could the reason possibly be? I thought resin parts cured faster if they get a little warm like any other photopolymer but the water should suck any heat away and make it cure slower...or that's how I understand it at least. Has anyone heard of this? They said it was a tip from either Matterhackers or Peopoly themselves.

>>1597880
why aren't dolphin/whale onnaholes a thing?

>>1597899
Bad dragon has a shark
Why arent you making some dolphin/whale onaholes you degenerate?

>>1597490
> I found my pirated Solidworks way easier to get into than Blender
Because solidworks is a parametric modeler made for CAD whereas blender is a polygonal modeler made for animation. Different purposes with different concerns and different workflows as a result.

>>1597719
An example of which would be a nightmare to CAD. It's a game model of which you're concerned with the general appearance, shape and number of polygons. You don't really care if the dimensions are accurate to ten thousandths of an inch or even to a millimeter.

>>1597880
Oxygen prevents curing, water doesnt.

https://discord.gg/88XdWTE

-2345

>>1595589
nevermind I fixed it by changing TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME and TEMP_HYSTERESIS

>>1597182
>that capacitor
lel, did a herome with 5015s as well, tripped thermal runaway protection when the fans turned on

>>>/tg/65851620
A 3DF Share thread has opened up. Come and share any .stl you think we should archive.

I keep seeing these things on Thingiverse, what the fuck are they?

>>1598043
A shitty bot that MakerBot won't kill because nobody takes care of the site anymore. Seriously, it's been around for years, and their explanation is "it's ART, I have a RIGHT to do it, don't look at it if you don't like it" or some such bullshit. Frustrates me to no end.

>>1598051
That's bizarre, what would anyone gain from that? Also, is there a better site than Thingiverse?

>>1598052
Myminifactory set its self up to be, but they got caught up in a Facebook type dilemma where there simply isn't enough difference in their product to compete properly with the product with 80%+ of the market share despite being the superior option
Also a lot of people abandoned them after the whole premium file shenanigans

Is it enough to create an outline for a gear and extrude it, in order to model a bevel gear? This will obviously make the teeth narrower towards the middle.

If this won't work, is there a bevel gear generator somewhere that I can use?

>>1598088
Most CAD packages allow you to extrude at an angle. Or you can make a construction plan at an angle to the shaft, draw one tooth, extrude and array it around the shaft. it doesn't matter that it's narrower towards the middle so long as both gears are. Due to the laws of geometry it's impossible to not make either the teeth or the gap between the teeth narrower towards the middle anyway.
>is there a bevel gear generator somewhere
check the fusion360 website, maybe there is a script for it.

>>1597899
http://www.queencatadulttoys.com/dolphin-male-masturbator/

>>1598099
Alright, thank you! I'll do some tests and see what works best (if any difference at all).

>>1598088
This book has a pretty good section on gear geometry.

>>1598088
i think there is a fusion 360 add-on for generating gears, yes

>>1598088
I usually download them from manufacturer/seller websites. E.g misumi, mcmaster-carr,... or your local supplier. What I use :
https://www.maedler.de/product/1643/1619/kegelraeder-gerade-verzahnt-und-spiralverzahnt
https://khkgears.net/new/how_to_select_gears.html

Download step or native format for your cad software, import and edit whatewer you want.

>>1597654
Fuck off cli is amazing
>>1597659
I'm trying cinnamon now it's ok I guess
>>1597647
Inventor was sexy as fuck for sketching and extrude/rotate but how it handled sub assembly was stupid imo when I used it 5 years ago. AutoCAD cli sounds dope but I thought openscad was a good idea and actually its a bit of a mindfuck I'm not as smart as o need to be

so, my cr10s4 has finally arrived and it came with a glassplate to print on
since i only used buildtak on my old printer i have to ask if i need to prep the plate in any way to decrease the chance of my prints detaching. is covering the plate witha gluestick enough ?

>>1598240
Just clean it with some isoproyl alcohol, you don't need gluestick on a properly leveled heated glass buildplate for PLA.

>>1598242
alright, thx.

>>1598244
Two things to note as well: don't put your fans on first layer or the print will still warp away. If you're using PETG, use a small coat of hairspray, this will get you both first layer adhesion and once it cools down you can easily take the print off without damaging the glass.

>>1598246
im gonna finish building a shelf for it tomorrow and then see how my prints go from then on. with a bit of luck, i can fit the whole printer inside and have a cheap enclosure for it. (if not, my old one will have a new home

anything else i should avoid to not damage the glass?

>>1598236
>Fuck off cli is amazing
I never said otherwise. You do realise that bash and the like are also very customisable?

>>1598265
>anything else i should avoid to not damage the glass?
Use razor blades to get print off. Do not use a screwdriver, blunt chisel or try and whack them off with a hammer - just wait untill the glass has cooled down. Don't remove the glass and cool it with water either, it'll crack. Don't be an idiot and you'll be fine, glass is pretty strong and scratch-resilient as far as buildplates go.

>>1598043
beautiful.
Link?

>create component in fusion 360
>want to create variant of same component
>copy and paste component as new component
>spend the next half hour creating sketches and modifying new component
>scoll out, all changes have been applied to the original model as well
Why?! I can't find an answer and it's fucking frustrating. I don't want to recreate the component from scratch.

>>1598331
When you copy paste components, they can be linked to the originals.
By default they're linked.
You can change that by right click "break link" or something like that

>>1595273
What type of transparent foil do i need to use in laser resin printer to insulate "table elevator" from vessel??

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints

>prusa makes thingiverse website that encourages uploading printer-specific gcode
>people actually supporting this

thingiverse but for f3d/openscad/step files when?

>>1598029
Mine fucked up a while ago and got PLA everywhere, and when I pulled the sock off to clean it thermal runaway tripped. First and last time it ever happened. The capacitor I found in a box I hadn't touched in 15 years and some time in google said they help so I used it. So far it's running great. All those ducts I printed didn't do a damn thing, but toss in a couple of big ass blowers in there and I watched all the stringing go away.

>>1598354
>can't rate files until you've downloaded them. Maybe even printed them.
>Can upload only Gcode
>No thingiview / rendered mesh
>At least the interface is clean
>Impossible to have a worse search algo than thingiverse
You can upload source files on thingiverse anon. Lots of openscad users attach the scad files to their things. I upload wings files with my models. It's not perfect, but it works.

>>1598358
you can use FAN_SOFT_PWM if it ever explodes, works well with my 5015s that wouldn't run at low RPM otherwise, and yeah for whatever reason the ender 3's default settings are more sensitive than stock marlin, and while on the topic, things like auto homing are set too fast so it really slams into the endstops

>>1598354
I don't understand.
Slic3r prusa edition is already almost one click out of the box. What's the point in sharing G-Code instead of (smaller and/or editable) 3D file?

>>1598383
Some objects need different settings, eg. higher infill, different layer height, etc..

Sharing gcode is still an awful to do that though.
They should just add the slicer configuration as metadata to the stl and hack that file format into their Slic3r version.

>>1598386
>They should just add the slicer configuration as metadata to the stl and hack that file format into their Slic3r version
This. They would go from uploading 50Mb of G-code and a 2Mb STL to uploading just a 2Mb STL.

>>1598383
Distributing only GCode is the first step in proprietizing 3d prints. The ultimate goal of a 3d printer maker like Prusa is to make everyone want their printer and nobody else's. If all the models online work better on a Prusa and can't be modified, everyone will buy that printer. Prusa wouldn't have to go through the effort of competing against Creality or anyone else with better designs or comparable costs. All they have to do is make all the prints not work on the competition.

3d printing as a whole will ultimately progress beyond the hobbyist tool it is now. Profit and control are the reason why it will turn to shit. The open standards will fade, STL and OBJ will give way to GCODE. GCODE will become a compiled format. Compiled GCODE will become "signed" compiled GCODE. Creating printable things will require the approval of others, just to make sure you're not going to make weapons or violate a copyright. Everyone who makes a profit selling injection molded plastic will jump in to make sure your prints don't duplicate something they sell and before long /3dpg/ will be empty apart from newfags making official Disney / Marvel busts of Captain Marvel and bitter oldfags running old printers or new printers with hacked firmware.

Remaking a set of DIY orthotics, the originals shattered after months of use, but completely got rid of my planar fasciitis. The print is reduced to only the top surface of the original impressions I made which had the heel raised and much thicker, but printing that would've resulted in something rock hard and completely inflexible. So I fixed it by attaching foam to the underside of the heel with double sided tape to raise it into a more comfortable position. Also I had to dip the toe in boiling water and make some manual adjustments. Once these are inside a shoe and one of those 'baking soda' insoles are placed on top it just feels like the shoes were made for my feet.

I'm going to repeat the process with these new ones and then try to modify the models of my foot impressions to match so that I can print them directly in flexible filament in the future without needing to do any manual adjustments.

>>1598460
Good work. I've been thinking about trying this for a while because there are no off-the-shelf products that are the right size or shape for my feet and custom orthodics are stupid expensive for what they are and how short their lifespoan is.

I've succeed in fixing my problems with not being able to print with a bunch of individual sections on a glass bed. The issue was that in Cura, combing was turned on for all. This means that in the first layer, it would not do retractions when traveling between each printed area. Normally this isn't an issue, but with the glass bed I wasn't having any luck; it would pull the printed outline along with it as it moves to the next since there was still some plastic connected to the oozing nozzle.

In order to fix this, I had to turn off combing. I wish there was an option to do this just for the first layer, though.

Anyone know what's going on with the waviness you can see on the edge of the diagonal fill here? I think it's nozzle too close to bed but I haven't seen this before.

>>1598523
Combing and coasting are settings for people that cant dial in their retraction, in my experience they cause more issues than they help.

Just got in a batch of filaments.ca's EconoFil PLA. First print came out mostly fine. Some odd stringing on the side of the overhang test. Got out to just over 70 degrees before the underside of the overhang got weird. Otherwise just fine.
Printed at 200C with a 60C bed. They recommend 190 to 230, so I think I'll try dropping the temp to 195 and see if that helps.
16 maple pesos for 1kg, so even if this is the best performance I can get out of it, I think it'll be fine for most uses.

>>1598297
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680611
Enjoy

>>1598043
Is that what the bot is supposed to do, make abstract sculptures of random things?

Up until now I thought that was just some wierd hipster or some shit doing that. Ive seen those things as remixes of some the most out there things Ive ever thought to print.

>>1598533
I honestly have no clue. It feels like the start of SkyNet or something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JlxuQ7tPgQ

what ACTUALLY nani the fuck, Fusion 360?

>>1598052
Unfortunately, no. Despite the shitty search system, the broken categories, and the 2-column mobile-styled limitation, no other site is as good due to just the amount of things and people that are still on Thingiverse. Most other sites usually are just game rips or really REALLY bad models (or people charging for content they didn't make).

>>1598331
If you have the timeline enabled, make a copy of the actual file (I'm not sure what you mean by 'component' here) and roll back the changes, then save again. If not, then you're SOL.

>>1598551
I like and use Thingiverse, but if there was a better option I'd jump ship in a heartbeat.

>>1598460
>>1598463
I don't entirely get what orthotics are but consider using flexible filaments (flexfill, ninjaflex, TPUs, etc.) if you're trying to make insoles

>>1598550
I'm having trouble figuring out what I'm looking at, is that a bad loft or something? What's with the squiggle?

>>1598559
I tried a patch first, got that, then used a normal loft and got the result I was looking for. That squiggle just stopped my brain for a few seconds.

>>1598562
>smooth 3D curves with variable curvature
That's something I've been meaning to get into for a while in F360. Any tips/guides you'd care to share? Exotic loft shapes don't seem to be doing it for me anymore.

>>1598566
Unfortunately this is the first time I'm attempting something like this, and it's all a bunch of lofted 3D splines because I don't know a better way of doing it. I also have a low poly OBJ as a reference which is extremely helpful in this case.

>>1598570

>>1598578
This is what programs like blender are for. If the base obj model is good enough you could throw a subdivision modifier on it and smooth it out without too much work.

Someone recently recommended trying filler primer to gap-fill prints and get smooth surfaces. Can anyone recommend a specific brand or product (not necessarily from pic related)? I know everyone has their favorites, but I just want to avoid getting something people know is crap and wasting my time and money on it.

>>1598636
Ive always seen the Rustoleum used.

>>1598636

I was using that Rustoleum on my 105mm shell print, and it was a huge pain in the ass. Even after letting it cure for a whole day, it was still clogging up my sandpaper in seconds.

On another print, I went over to a friend's place while he had some polyester filler primer loaded in his gun, and it was a dream to sand on like 15 minutes after spraying.

>>1598578
>>1598570
>>1598562
can you import multiple pictures in fusion, i have multiple angles of an object i wanna print but not have a model yet and blender is way to complicated

Guy i need some tips.
I made laser printer works like exactly reprap but with laser and resin.
But i need z hop after every layer and go back to position, no idea how to make cura to do that, is there a beter software tu reprap cuttings but for SLA laser printer for free?
Is FEP mat only way to make tray not too stick with resin vessel? Its not cheap...

>>1598657
Write a small python script that adds Z-hop and homing code after each layer.
Apply this script to the gcode after it came out of cura.

>>1598792
Im not a coder ;_; i wish i was. And how do i identify new layer? After every "; Layer:x"?

>>1598562
>>1598570
>>1598578
If you are trying to make something with a relatively uniform thickness that only changes near the edges then you should consider modeling only the exterior surfaces. You can then get the interior surfaces by using the shell function, or by modeling them separately as another solid and then subtracting that model using a boolean function.

Similarly you could model the individual elements as pieces, then combine them as an assembly and export the assembly as an STL.

There are many ways around these modeling issues in solid CAD, but they're all somewhat cumbersome compared to just using sculpting or mesh modeling software.

>>1598527
>Combing and coasting are settings for people that cant dial in their retraction, in my experience they cause more issues than they help.
Well, time to try some new slicer settings.

>>1598866
After I figured my retraction out, 5-6.5mm depending on temperature with 60mm/s speed, coasting and combing started getting me underextrusion issues on small details and top layers.

This is all on a CR-10.

>>1598873
I'd been having issues where the print would get knocked off the bed. It's PLA on glass, and while it sticks it doesn't stick great. Combing was making a shitoad of travel moves over the models and occasionally hit something. I'm trying an hour long print right now to see how it fares without combing and without painter's tape. So far so good.
>Retraction: 10mm
>Zhop: 0.4mm
Is there a way to tell if you have too much retraction? Cura's stock setting is 10mm and I never though I would need to change it.

>>1598891
To be honest zhop is a shitty setting too, causes stringing. Funny enough I think figuring out the retraction speed is what finally got mine dialed in, if its too slow the retraction amount doesn't mean shit, and most printers actually have a limit to how fast the firmware will let them print. Bunch of people on here claim they run 100mm/s prints when in reality the firmware likely doesn't allow them to go over 80 or so, and acceleration probably limits that to 60 in most areas.

If your print head is hitting prints you more than likely have hardware and/or leveling problems. For example the CR-10 is prone to dropping the right side of the X axis a small amount if you don't have the idler wheels adjusted just right. But answer your question, somewhat, the Ender 3 and CR-10 shouldn't need more than 6.5mm of retraction if you have everything else dialed in.

>>1598897
I've calibrated my printer's axes to within half of one percent on all axes. Last time I checked the extruder was spot on by my calipers. Everyone tells me "calibrate your printer!" and unless I'm missing something it is calibrated. I really think this was more a matter of what happens when bridging goes retarded, since I've never not used it since I got the printer for Christmas. I'll toy with the retraction speed and see if I can't get off z-hopping, but on my setup the stringing is minimal so I might not bother anyway. Depends on how PETG comes out with these settings.

>>1598386
Yes, I know. Slicing was hard before cause you have to found the parameters for your printer and filament, but now, it's a painless process on standardized machine like prusa's one. That's why I don't understand why they even want to share the Gcode.
Adding parameters to the 3D object (or put both on a zip file) would be very good indeed.

>>1598398
This is pessimistic and probably won't append (except if china falls and we don't have cheap material). But that could append and is more or less an exaggerated version of what I was thinking. But then, why Prusa let everyone download the 3D printer's blueprints and Slicer's source?

>>1598918
Some of the hardware stuff is less calibrating it and more just making it happy, as mentioned for example those eccentric wheels you adjust on Y and X axis. The one of the right side of the x carriage needs to be loose enough to not bind when the Z tries to go up, but tight enough that it doesnt drop the gantry by a fraction of a millimeter whenever it goes up. In my experience you want to tighten that one to the point where you just barely get resistance on your wrech, and then a tiny bit more. Its finicky as fuck.

>>1598578
I'd recommend Rhino for things like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pe2kmsM94FQ

so i went with the ender 3 just because so many people talk about it. this will be my first 3d printer. I was wondering can you enter gcode manually, does it have something like mdi mode? do I have to set G54 part zero for my prints? so it's just 1 tool right so I get height for that? how does it work? I have some machining experience from college but I want to know how different it is. also can I swipe the bed with a test indicator and check for runout when leveling?

ended up getting several upgrades for it too. the new bed spring, the tl smoother(waste?), aluminum extruder, capricorn tube, what else should I need?

I was thinking about printing something like this. I know it's going to take forever but I want it.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/life-size-baby-t-rex-skeleton-part-01-10

will the ender 3 print quality stuff like above? also is direct drive a waste?

>>1599036
You can send gcode manually through terminals. Smoothers are a waste, ender 3s have warped beds fairly often so look at getting a glass bed. Go look up teaching tech on youtube, he has tons of tutorials for ender 3s. Ender 3 is also loud as fuck.

>>1599043
>>1599036
Also you can get to almost the print quality of a prusa with enough tinkering.

>>1599043
>>1599045

sweet cant wait. ill get the glass bed and dampers, i don't mind noise as long as its not annoyingly loud.

>>1599049
dampers can be a issue. the pulleys on the steppers for newer ender 3s are pressure fit and dampers will not fit over them and/or belts won't align with them anymore if they do fit over. You can buy a new control board with TMC2208 stepper drivers which make the printer's steppers almost completely silent if you want.

>>1599058

sounds like a plan. im guessing tmc2208 doesn't come standard in any 3d ender pro?

>>1599062
No but creality sells a upgrade board if you don't want to fuck around with non-official boards.

>>1599058
I put my dampers on by using a pin punch on the stepper rods.

Punching the top pushes the rod out of the pulley but further through the motor, and punching the bottom knocks it back out of the motor. You have to alternate every few punches to get it right.

If you knock it out of the motor too far it'll noticeably grind when you turn it by hand. Pushing it back in stops this, but to be safe just don't do that. When I moved on to the Y motor I tried using a wrench between the pulley and motor to stop the knockback and that just pinched the wrench until the pulley chipped, so don't do that either.

Now here's the part where you call me a dumbass, because I think some lube leaked out and coated both stepper blocks during this whole operation, plus recently the X motor started making a click on full rotation during printing despite not missing a step. At least it's much quieter and I get less ringing?

>>1599043
>ender 3s have warped beds fairly often so look at getting a glass bed
Don't buy a glass bed before actually testing the printer. Mine works perfectly.

>>1599091
even if my bed wasn't warped I'd get one. Perfect bed adhesion with just a wipe of alchohol, released on its own once the bed cools and a nice mirror finish on the bottom layer, what's not to like?

>>1599098
The buildtak the ender comes with is also perfect adhesion and a lot easier to get started with.
Don't "upgrade" your printer if an upgrade isn't needed. The ender 3 is pretty good out of the box, 99% of "upgrades" people recommend for it are bullshit.

>>1599099
this, but there are a few upgrades the you'll want to print. psu support and a fan cover were my first prints

>>1599099
Yeah the buildtak is fine if you don't have a warped bed and don't want to have the super smooth finish of a glass bed, but there are a few must basically must haves like upgraded bed springs if you don't want to have to relevel every few prints. You should also print a filament guide so the filament doesn't eat into the plastic intake on the extruder. And like >>1599102 said, a fan cover for the control box. Most my upgrades have been to reduce the horrid noise it makes though.

>>1599098
Youre aware you have to set the heat bed to 60-70 degrees to print on bare glass right?

>>1599036
>https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/life-size-baby-t-rex-skeleton-part-01-10

lol that's going to take you months to print on a ender 3

>>1599108
yes and? I print all my pla with a 60C heated bed.

>>1599110
Was just checking, thats not exactly normal bed temperature for PLA, was kinda under the impression you thought glass was a magic fix all.

>>1599123
Oh no, I'm just saying its a nice cheap fix warped beds since you can get a piece of glass cut to size for it for less than $10 usually. The nice first layer mirror finish and the self releasing when teh bed cools down is just a bonus.

>>1599125
Better hope you dont live in a hot area, my printer noticeably increases the temperature of the room its in even at 40 degrees.

is support a must for big prints? how do you know if u need or dont need support and how much?

>>1599133
If the print has any structurally or detail important overhangs above 60 degrees or so its best to use support. Of course there are special cases, most printers can handle arches, tops of small circles, and bridging in areas where you dont care how it looks. But overall if the looks/integrity matter to you use supports.

>>1599129
I have AC, house stays a nice 15-20C all year. If I didn't I'd jsut keep the printer in the basement.

>>1598655
Yes, you can import as many as you like

>>1598657
>resin vat is made from plastic packaging
>"FEP... Its not cheap"
If you're cutting corners and costs this much, I don't think you're going to have a good time with resin.

>no idea how to make cura to do that
Cura has a Z-hop function. Google it. It's the first 10 results.

>>1599084
>a fucking light bulb

>>1599043
>teaching tech
I cant stand him
every ender3 video he does reeks of hidden advertising

>>1599200
meh, he makes some comprehensive guides even if it includes some amazon affiliate links
there are much worse channels out there in terms of fake reviews of products that are overly positive so people buy through their links

>>1599200
>I cant stand him
>every ender3 video he does reeks of hidden advertising

Oh and what channels do watch for informative content? Anus at wankers muse? The 3d printing turd? The permavirgin professor? Or maybe you have your lips wrapped around the fat schlong of josef prusa.

TT is some aussie school teacher which is why he shills low cost accessible printers like the ender 3.

>>1599045
Please, an ender 3 prints better out of the box than that plastic piece of shit. It's not so much tinkering, as really assembling it properly.

Now keeping it printing at that quality needs some work and mods.

lol okay

>>1599283
>what channels do watch for informative content?
None about 3d printing
Im oldschool and visit communitys for discussion

>>1599099
As an anon that's spent easily $100+ in upgrades this advice couldn't be more true.
>Put it together properly
>Calibrate it properly
>A couple of printed mods to protect the printer from itself
That's it.

>>1599283
>dissing every single major 3D printing channel because they know more than you and make money off it to boot

Whew lad.

>>1595273
whoaaa where do i get the fat sad cat? i never wanted a model so much in my life like this one.

But my main question (and reason why i am asking anon) is:
Friend is selling his FLSUN Cube for around 200 bucks. should i take it ?

>>1595658
if you hook it up to your power supply's 12 or 24V, it's going to fry the arduino that expects 5V

>>1599726
Shh! Let him learn.

Just bricked my printer today, maker select v2.1, in attempting to move to Marlin. Unresponsive, no lcd, no beeps, no octoprint connection. What do

>>1599787
Flash bootloader over isp

>>1598418
Grim.

Should I replace the bed springs on my CR-20? I feel like they could be more responsive.

>finally have an enclosure for my printer
>turns out the heaterbed cable is too short
what even are these connections called if i decide to buy extentions

If I want to try making small figurines would blender be good enough or do I need zbrush?

>>1600059
aviation plugs

>>1600037
Stick a couple of washers under them, see if it makes a difference.

>>1600064
Blender tends to chug at very high poly counts, but conceivably you could manage with it just fine for single models.

>>1600065
wtf, i was expecting more "technical"
thx anyway

>>1600084
GX16.
But nobody calls them anything but "aviation plug" or "4 pin aviation plug".

>Bought white PLA filament
>Horrible details and very soft
>Feels like chalk
>Print half a dozen temperature towers
>Mostly imperceptible difference between 175 and 230
>No consistency sticking to the bed at all, sometimes won't even stick to painter's tape
>Hoping for some kind of miracle or epiphany to get this stuff working
I spent a few threads griping about the 3d Solutech silver PLA I got last time, but for all it lacked I could at least force it to stick to the bed and hold a decent shape. After going through 2/3 of the roll printing test cubes and temperature towers anyway. Amazonbasics black was fine, but the pearl white is just the worst.

>>1599787
>>1599794

We good, I didn't get 1.1.9 on it, I had to revert to someone else's settings for 1.1.8 but it's up and running fine now. Doing a PID auto-tune on the hotend now. The new mosfet for the heated bed plus the thermal runaway protection make me feel a little more safe with this thing running while I sleep.

Is there any changes to the tiers of?

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]

>>1600200
just buy the largest creality you can afford

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Creality-CR-10S-Pro-3D-Printer-Auto-Leveling-Sensor-Double-Gear-300X300X400mm/908170203

CR-10S Pro for $479 y/n

>>1600204
>walmart

>>1600206
>walmart

>>1600204
It's a good deal but
>walmart

>>1600176
Youre either doing something wrong or getting shit batches. Solutech is one of the better brands Ive bought in the past, and the closest thing Ive ever gotten to bad PLA was some that got left in the UPS truck on a hot day. Sunlu, Solutech, Tianse, you name a cheap brand on Amazon Ive probably bought it and had absolutely no issues. Tianse tends to get brittle as fuck if you dont use it within a few months, I have like 1/6th of a roll of red that just shatters if you try to unroll it.

Your best bet is to contact the seller on Amazon, Ive had more than 1 replace the roll for no extra charge.

>>1600203
Whatre the green numbers supposed to mean?

>>1600235
>I have like 1/6th of a roll of red that just shatters if you try to unroll it.
You could probably still use it as a filler for recycled PLA.

just got these, guessing they are good brand? I have a question i will post soon. my 3d printer is still on the way so i wanna be ready and spent a good amount of money on upgrades. its an ender 3.

here is the question about the model i want to print. its the drone from the movie oblivion. any reason why i can still see the lines on cura? is it exaggerated? I wanted it to be bigger so i scaled it up to %150. i'm using .4 nozzle with .2 layer but even with .1 layer it still shows the lines on cura. can i sand it down? also lets say I wanted to print this with layer .2 is it okay to use speed of .40mm/s? will it look okay with .60mm/sec? put the temp at 205. I ordered .2 nozzle but I hear with the ender 3 it gets clogged a lot so I went back with what it comes with and its .4mm. kind of new working with mm, i know if you divide by 25.4 you get inches or multiply with .03973. im gonna use 20% infil

>>1600264
Hatchbox works well enough. It's all I really ever use, and haven't had too many issues with it. Some colors perform differently however, so make sure you run a stringing check on each color you get

>>1600268
>.03973

.03937*

>>1600268
yes no yes 40 mm/s not 0.40 mm/s maybe ok correct ok

What's the thread for the bed adjustment on an Ender 3?

>>1600279

ty yea sorry 40mm/s

New Thread >>1600285