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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 570 KB, 1800x1800, collage.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591345 No.1591345 [Reply] [Original]

I Like Turtles Edition

Old thread: >>1585123

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

>> No.1591347
File: 130 KB, 1152x576, IMG_20190411_183405[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591347

>> No.1591348

do u do airsofting

>> No.1591432
File: 280 KB, 2048x1536, howitzer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591432

Prepping the 105mm howitzer project for paint.

>> No.1591454
File: 89 KB, 966x1372, 6D3C1D14-2A43-4DBC-B8D0-4650842F4F31.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591454

What’s the easiest way to model and convert complex organic shapes to a nice watertight .stl?

Five years ago, I used blender and meshlab but my success rate wasn’t always great. Has anything changed? I use geomagic design x for parts/brackets/etc and it just werks. It is kinda meh for converting scanned point clouds to a solid mesh, but several other programs look promising for that. It’s just sculpting and converting weird shit that has me stumped.

>> No.1591455

>>1591432
Any good tutorials on painting 3D prints?

>> No.1591457

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/04/11/metallic-wood-new-material-that-is-as-strong-as-titanium-but-5-times-lighter/
Anyone with a stereolithography setup want to try making this kind of thing?

>> No.1591473

>>1591454
You can use geomagic design for weirder shapes if you get more familiar with using the Loft and Sweep functions.

It's been such a long time since I did anything in mesh-based modeling so all the software I used (and still sometimes use) for that is basically abandonware now. So I don't have anything I can recommend on that topic.

>> No.1591480

>>1591473
>>1591454
Is MeshMixer still a good bet for this kind of thing? Haven't used it much in years.

>> No.1591482

Ender-3 anons, what extruder filament guide do you guys recommend?

>> No.1591487

>>1591455

I didn't really research, I'm just experimenting with body filler to smooth out the layer lines.

>> No.1591554

>>1591482
Top:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015832
On Extruder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3423506 (uses some PTFE)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433651 (thick walls = lasts longer)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920344 (Most popular and easy)

>> No.1591556
File: 1.44 MB, 2560x1440, harpy 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591556

Update on Papi
Print took 7 hours with 0.4mm nozzle & 0.2mm layers. I won't say she came out good but she wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. Feathers didn't break off and her top & shorts showed through. Her head and arm came off during the removal of supports. The print was more support than harpy.
Seeing it in 3d, I realize the print needs to be a fuckton bigger, which means separating body parts and doing multiple prints. This means I need a way to connect limbs. This means making her into a snap model.
Fuck this is just not worth it.

>> No.1591563

>>1591556
I feel like this would be easier to just cut her arms and head off and print them separately in a better orientation, then just glue them onto the body.

>> No.1591592

>>1591554
Nice one. Thanks mate.

>> No.1591598

>>1591482
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2896612
or if you have a cable chain:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3302493

also this filament spool holder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313179

>> No.1591617
File: 62 KB, 1280x720, latest[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591617

Is there an easy way to rip models from games? I'd love to print one of these chips from DOOM, along with some other random vidya stuff, but I suck at modeling and the stuff I want never has any models available (for free) online.

>> No.1591620

>>1591617
no but that would take like 2 seconds in fusion 360 to model

>> No.1591622

>>1591617
Converting them into model you can print takes longer than learning how to model it yourself.

>> No.1591665

I'm supposed to use the 115V setting for my Ender 3 PSU in Canada, right?

>> No.1591667

>>1591665
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=canada+power+voltage

>> No.1591685

>>1591617
Learn how to model. What's the point of owning a 3D printer if you can't?

>> No.1591706

>largest print for me yet
>.1 steps suggested but go .15 per comments
>cura says 7ish hours on my ender
>almost hour 8 and just over 52%
are the discrepancies usually this bad?

>> No.1591709

>>1591706
The magic numbers for the Ender 3 Z-axis are 0.04mm and 0.0025mm. Those are the full step and 1/16th microstep values.

>> No.1591727

>>1591709
Doesn't that mean that .8 is also a magic number, being 2/16 or 1/8?

>> No.1591737

>>1591709
>>1591727
i hadn't looked into how steps affect layers but that makes sense. should i make my own profiles for cura? i would have thought they would have accounted something like that with me inputting my printer

>> No.1591823

>>1591556
That dogshit model wasn't worth it from the start.

>> No.1591826

>>1591556
Calibrate your extruder and get some better part cooling.

>> No.1591835

What print speed and temperature was the Ender 3 guy using?

Filament?

>> No.1591836

>>1591617
This guy has a valid question.

There should be a way to get at the asset models, but I don't know right offhand. It has been done on games in the past.

>> No.1591839

How do you stop the fans on the hot end from sucking up those hair strings of plastic?
I was thinking of printing a sort of grill for them, but I don't know if that'll inhibit the air flow too much or not.

>> No.1591848

>>1591839
Which printer hotend? Do settings to retract and wipe help to reduce the amount of fine strings? I’ve never had this problem, so I wonder if I just have a weakass bitch fan compared to you.

>> No.1591850

>>1591727
yes any multiple of 0.04

>> No.1591851

>>1591737
yes or just use a premade one, it probably doesn't affect quality that much but it will make it print faster if you use magic numbers

>> No.1591874
File: 61 KB, 671x574, 1546541734838.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591874

>>1591848
Ender 3.
I don't really print without retraction because I find I get some pretty shitty prints without it.
Cura does the wipe by default, which is actually where I notice some of the fine strings go into the fan.

I've also noticed it happen when the nozzle makes sharp moves over a long-ish distance, it'll leave behind some fine strings and when it makes its way back around, they'll get pulled into the fan.

>>1591836
As with all games, there's often a way to dig into the packages that contain the files for it. It's usually just a matter of finding out what container is used, and figuring out a way to unpack it. There's a lot of tools around on game modding forums to pack and repack files

Pic related is a greataxe I pulled from the Nintendo Switch's Xenoblade Chronicles 2. Though it doesn't look too great without the textures.

>> No.1591888

>>1591826
In all honesty anon, I'm going to blame the filament. This is the 3D Solutech silver filament and the cheapest 1kg filament available on Amazon at the time. I've had nothing but bed adhesion issues, poor consistency, and with sizing with it since I started. The reviews are all glowing but my experience has been anything but great. Trying to print threads (bolts, nuts) for parts has been a nightmare, but I switched back to what's left of a roll of different stuff and everything fits better. It could be cooling issues as the AmazonBasics stuff needs slightly higher temps like a lot of lower quality PLA, but that's just part of learning what works for your own prints. Once it's gone I'm changing brands.

>> No.1591901

>>1591874
It's usually a bad idea to try to extract shit from games anyway. They use specular maps to add details, we need those details to be part of the actual model.
If you're making a character, you might better off extracting the model and manually adding the details, but for things like a sword I would rather just spend less than an hour redrawing it in Solidworks. That way you're also guaranteed that there's no strange geometry. Game models often have glitches or corners cut in areas where the player isn't expected to ever see anyway, for example the right side of a gun in an FPS game. The low resolution world model would have them, but the high res player model could skip them.

>> No.1591914
File: 1.92 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_3969.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591914

I finished the case. I tried friction welding, it worked but was messy. Attempts to clean it up with a dremel just melted the plastic.

>> No.1591918
File: 1.49 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_3973.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591918

I previously tried superglue which worked except for the last join which kept popping open due to the hoop stress in the ring. Perhaps I could try superglue and then bolts for the last join. Does superglue work good on PETG? This is in PLA but I want to change it because it would probably smash if I dropped it.

>> No.1591920

>>1591901
That makes sense desu. I noticed with character that they end up looking pretty gritty. It definitely does seem better to learn how to model everything.

>> No.1591923

>>1591888
It's not the filament's fault, that is a hard model to 3D print which you tried to print in one go and you need to try calibration first before giving up and blaming the filament.

>> No.1591924

>>1591617
>I'd love to print one of these chips from DOOM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4V6erK0FhbM

>> No.1591928

>>1591920
Get Fusion 360, it's free and easy to learn with lots of resources

>> No.1591957
File: 996 KB, 3024x4032, scigrip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1591957

>>1591918
This stuff is to PLA as acetone is to ABS. Haven’t tried a vapor bath, but this is the best adhesive for PLA because it chemically melts PLA and fuses pieces together.

>> No.1591958

Anyone know what I can do to remove print from a glass bed, I used hairspray, and I can usually remove the prints with little effort, but this one wont budge at all.

>> No.1591959

>>1591958
put it in the freezer or try spraying some windex or isopropyl alcohol on it

>> No.1591962

>>1591957
Does it give you cancer?

>> No.1591995

>>1591962
probably

>> No.1592001

>>1591962
It doesn't have KNOWN TO MAYBE CONTAIN ELEMENTS OR TRACES OF ELEMENTS THAT MIGHT BE KNOWN TO MAYBE CAUSE OR CONTRIBUTE TO CAUSE CANCER IN THE STATE OF COMMIEFORNIA all over the front, so probably not.
Still wouldn't drink it.

>> No.1592034

>>1591995
>>1592001
Hmm I'll try glue + bolts first. The fan itself I've taken onboard what /3dpg/ said and I'll redesign it to have snap-fit blades. In my defence it was badly designed because I was using Windows 2000-tier CAD software but I have F360 now. I still may as well spin it to see if the blade angles are correct though.

>> No.1592076

>>1591962
literally everything causes cancer. Just wear gloves and be in a well ventilated room.

>> No.1592078

>>1591482
None. Print an ext. spool holder and place it to feed the filament straight in the feeder. This has also the advantage to remove the heavy spool weight from the top of the frame.

>>1592076
Stop paranoiafagging. Veeery few substances directly cause cancer such as asbestos.
He'll be fine.

>> No.1592081

Why did they ruin cura?

>> No.1592086

>>1592078
>Stop paranoiafagging. Veeery few substances directly cause cancer such as asbestos.
>He'll be fine.
I'm not paranoiafagging, I'm telling him to stop being a bitch and wearing protection.
Even asbestos is safe when you take precautions.

>> No.1592109

>>1591914
>Attempts to clean it up with a dremel just melted the plastic.
Just use a rough round file. You can't use a dremel on plastic because it clogs the sandpaper surface too quickly.

>> No.1592120

>>1592109
I've been able to polish PLA just fine with a dremel diamond cutting disc before. You just need to take it slowly and make shallow dips with the flat of the blade.

>> No.1592136
File: 48 KB, 628x472, decadence.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592136

Finally, a practical print for the modern man.

>> No.1592153
File: 113 KB, 1288x757, Screenshot_20190413_145849.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592153

horrible

>> No.1592159
File: 520 KB, 1440x1920, 20190413_205414.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592159

>>1591432

The body filler worked great, but the filler primer I used after was total shit.

Luckily I found a friend in ammo that will trade a piece of 105mm brass for this one and he's not too picky, so I have a second chance to get the paint job better.

>> No.1592161

Can someone post me a snippet of the ISO code used for printing?
Just need an example.

>> No.1592171
File: 637 KB, 1920x1440, 20190413_210711.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592171

>>1591914

The fuzzy sanding wheels at low speed work great. PLA is still really sensitive, so you have to be careful with it though.

>> No.1592172
File: 106 KB, 690x638, 658356835678358.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592172

>>1591851
.1 vs .12, pretty obvious that it does affect quality

>> No.1592187

>>1592153
Yeah, it's literally unusable without mods now. Click "marketplace" in the upper right, wait three centuries for it to load, and then install "sidebar gui"

>> No.1592188
File: 1.18 MB, 2080x1560, IMG_20190413_133224897.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592188

>remove buildtak
>it's a bitch to remove
>look up how to do it after, find out you're supposed to heat up the bed to help the adhesive release
About what I deserve for just going for it, but now I have a glass bed at least

>> No.1592193

>>1592188
Enjoy your shitty adhesion.

>> No.1592196
File: 955 KB, 2080x1560, IMG_20190318_194717171.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592196

>>1592193
Here's the reason why I changed away from it: I couldn't figure out why but anything in the lower left hand corner going from negative Y to positive X just wouldn't adhere on the buildtak. I only have a shitty picture of it but no matter what I did I couldn't get it to adhere in those direction changes.

So far with glass, no issues on test print, but I'm cursed with needing a gluestick from now on it seems. I've got a second buildtak sheet but I'm going to see if just glass is OK or I should get a PEI sheet.

>> No.1592197

>>1592193
PLA sticks fine to glass for me.
Whenever I print ABS I rub the bed with some acetone + ABS plastic.
PETG sticks well with some hairspray/painters tape

>> No.1592200

>>1592197
>PETG sticks well with some hairspray/painters tape
It sticks worse with that. Which is what you want with PETG.

>> No.1592229

>>1592109
The sandpaper actually blew up, damn near gave me a heart attack.
>>1592153
Wow this looks almost as bad as the shitty slicer DaVinci forces you to use with their printers. Why aren't you using sli3er?
>>1592159
Wow that looks really real
>>1592171
Thanks for the tip!

>> No.1592232
File: 178 KB, 1920x1032, Actual Cura 4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592232

>>1592229
>Why aren't you using sli3er?
Not him, but slic3er is shit. If you can't fix it with Cura or Simplify you're doing something wrong. The new 4.0 UI does suck, but it doesn't suck as much as >>1592153 would make you believe.

>> No.1592234
File: 1.56 MB, 2949x2745, IMG_20190413_223243~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592234

These things take way longer to print than cura told me. Three walls thick and transparent PLA, which actually gives the cubic infill a pretty cool effect in the sunlight. This one turned out a bit too narrow, so I'm printing the other slightly wider. I guess I'll reprint this one if the new settings turn out OK. It's still wearable, but two days of printing and half a kilo of filament per shoe is a bit much.
It's way higher than it looks like on the photo, and twice as tall as any other heels I own.

>> No.1592235

>>1592232
>Slic3r is shit
How do you justify that?

>> No.1592237

>>1592235
Just like any other person in this thread: I have never used it and therefore it is shit.

>> No.1592238

>>1592188

You 3d printing condoms there anon?

>> No.1592239

>>1592193
I never have any problems with clean glass. If you do, you either have leveling problems or the temperature of the bed is incorrect.

>> No.1592247

>>1592187
Already tried that it doesn't work...

>> No.1592253

>>1592234
You should have only printed the sole and cut cork or rubber for the heel. Not only does this design waste plastic as you pointed out but it will be very uncomfortable to wear.

>> No.1592254

>>1592153
Im confused, is this Cura 4.0?

You need to click custom next to the print settings search bar and just enable every setting you want to be able to change.

>> No.1592260

>>1591901
>>1591920
can fix those in the Fusion 360 mesh or patch environment too.

>> No.1592284

>>1592253
I've bought rubber that you glue on for the sole, and I already have good foam for the insole.
Shoes like these are never comfortable, sure having a lot more rubber would reduce the shock of each step a lot, but I own similar platform heels already (just, you know, about half as high) and honestly these aren't much worse. Once I've tuned them to actually fit my feet and have some padding glued on I doubt they'll be any worse than bought ones of this type of excessive height.
In total the filament and rubber cost me 25 euros. That's pretty damn cheap for a pair of wedge sandals, even if they are horrible. No idea what I'll do for straps. I have some denim, but half the point of this was 3D printing clothes. There's a belt on thingiverse, I guess I could try making something like that.

>> No.1592323

>>1592284
What you printed are basically clogs, rubber heels would help a lot. Shouldn't have used PLA either, your shoes are going to melt on asphalt in the summer.
>In total the filament and rubber cost me 25 euros. That's pretty damn cheap for a pair of wedge sandals,
Huang is laughing.

>> No.1592337

>>1592323
I'm not going to wear them on asphalt in the summer. Of course they're unusable, it's just that that isn't a problem. They would be nearly as unusable if they were made from proper materials. Look at a pair of real wedge sandals and then look at this one, they're at least twice as tall as any regular sandal you'll find.
If I'd wanted something actually decent I would have gone for something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3199971 , it would have worked just as well with my foam and rubber but wasted a lot less plastic and looked better. Half the fun is in how awful these are.

>> No.1592339

>>1592323
>Huang is laughing
Huang is crying because this basic white bitch can throw away the equivalent of his yearly salary on a joke.

>> No.1592343

>>1592253
that much rubber would have cost way more than the filament. don't know about cork though, but i don't think it would have been much cheaper than printing the whole thing was.

>> No.1592347

>>1592339
Lol.
>>1592343
Rubber is cheap as fuck, just don't get high-grade natural shit.

>> No.1592358

>>1592347
Okay, so let's say I buy three of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Rubber-Hammer-With-Wooden-Handle-No-Elastic-Rubber-Hammer-Floor-Tile-Installation-Hammer/32999806988.html rubber mallets to melt down and pour in a mold for these shoes. That equates to 13 dollars (including shipping) for 600g of rubber, or 21.2 dollars for a kilo. That's the cheapest rubber I've been able to find in Europe. I don't know how much plastic would go into only the sole, but I don't imagine buying literally the shittiest rubber on the Internet would have saved me much money at all, and I'm not even including the cost for the tools I'd need to actually melt and cast rubber.
Looking at latex milk instead it looks like I'd be paying at least thirty dollars for the rubber.
Printing the entire thing is a waste of filament, but it's not that much more expensive in the end, and it's so much less inconvenient for a joke item.

>> No.1592365

>>1592188

Is that extra frame reinforcement necessary on these sheet steel i3's?

>> No.1592366
File: 1.04 MB, 1500x1221, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592366

has anyone used these heat set inserts? should i buy the dedicated soldering iron installation tip or will a regular tip be fine?

>> No.1592371

>>1592234
How hard are they to walk in?

>> No.1592386

>>1592366
Unless you're using really short inserts, a normal tip is fine.

>> No.1592410

>>1592366
regular soldering iron is fine, you don't need special "heat set inserts" either
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I

>> No.1592417

>>1592159
Did you try sanding the filler primer at all? I'm pretty sure it's meant for high-grit sanding, but I've never used the stuff myself so I don't know.

>> No.1592423

>>1592365
Only if you're doing stuff maybe 1/3 the vertical height or taller, but yes it helps

>> No.1592446

>>1591851
>>1592172
Are magic numbers just for cartesian printers or is it a thing for delta printers too? Are they literally just the same numbers or is there some way to figure them out for my delta printer?

>> No.1592496

>>1591347
what does it shoot?

>> No.1592501

>>1592366
I got these a few days ago, seem to be working fine. For a 4mm hole, you can press-fit them in, even.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBRTQQH

>> No.1592503
File: 267 KB, 890x771, BadPrint.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592503

I haven't had print issues in such a long time I forgot what I need to do to fix things like this. I was printing fine over the past few days, what happened to cause this? I just cleaned the bed with IPA so it shouldn't be issues with adherence, and the bed height should be fine.

>> No.1592505

>>1592496
Airsoft

>> No.1592512

>>1592505
Have you considered getting into nerf?

>> No.1592518

>>1592153
This unstable piece of shit 'corrupted' my printer profile and tried to make me redo it. I uninstalled the cancer and downgraded to 3.6; the 'corrupted' printer profile loaded up just fine.

>> No.1592530

>>1592501
Press fitting threaded inserts into 3d printed parts is not recommended, you can crack the plastic and also the insert can be pulled out much easier than using the before mentioned soldering iron method.

>> No.1592535

>>1592530
I don't doubt it, but for the shitty ones I'm using and the forces it takes, will work fine. Definitely not a use-case for most people, though.

>> No.1592545

I'm considering using spackle as an adhesive for my PLA 3d print. Is this a good Idea?

>> No.1592550

>>1592545
Spackle dries no stronger than typical drywall, are you implying using it like glue? Terrible idea, just use cyanoacrylate.

>> No.1592554

>>1592545
>>1592550
See
>>1591957

>> No.1592558

>>1592554
He said adhesive not chemical weld...

>> No.1592559

>>1592558
...What do you use adhesives for that chemical welds don't work for as well? The point of both is to stick two parts together, isn't it?

>> No.1592561

>>1592554
>>1592559
All right, so i figured that Spackle is better used as a filler than an adhesive. That being said I do not want to melt my print. How does Loct ite gel sound?

>> No.1592562

>>1592559
Yes but that Scigrip isnt as available as regular superglue, doesnt dry as fast, and is nastier.

Also as >>1592561 hinted it can threaten the integrity and accuracy of the print.

>>1592561
Superglue...

>> No.1592563

>>1592562
Thoughts on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvIu98A9GA8

>> No.1592565

>>1592563
Whats to think? The graph at the end shows the Loctite gel superglue has the strongest bond. I use Gorilla Glue Gel superglue, I also have like 3 other brands.

>> No.1592574

>>1592503
Bed is to close to the nozzle.
That layer is squished to the piont where the infill lines push eachother to the side.

>> No.1592591

>>1592366
Use nuts instead.

>> No.1592627

>>1592591
nuts don't look professional

>> No.1592631
File: 47 KB, 540x416, 1550862399730.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592631

A couple of threads ago I saw an anon printing this cat. Are you still around, buddy?
Is there any chance you could give me the files to print?
I don't think I could match how well you captured the cat's expression by modelling myself

>> No.1592647

>>1592627
How don't they look professional? Design your part so that the nuts are inserted into a slot on the inside of the print. It'll look every bit as professional as those inserts.

>> No.1592660

>>1591348
spbp
>>1592159
Neat. You just displaying it or is it part of something else?

>> No.1592670

>>1592627
lrn 2 shave

>> No.1592671
File: 3.12 MB, 4032x2268, 20190410_202005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592671

Trying out the scaling tool in Cura. The stock model nose cone came out fine for the most part. But when I scaled up the nozzle built up the middle a few layers then started running across at a lower layer dragging it through.
What did I mess up?

>> No.1592672

>>1592171
Where did you buy those and what are they called? Remind me of 3M™ roloc pads

>> No.1592676

>>1592423

Interesting, can any Ender3 owners say if they're having this issue with tall prints?

>> No.1592685

>>1592496
It's a nerf gun that gets posted every thread followed by "do you make air soft guns too"

>> No.1592704

>>1592676
Nope, never happened to me.

>> No.1592720
File: 2.31 MB, 2400x1720, Screenshot 2019-04-14 at 16.09.16-2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592720

This is what it looks like with the fan by the way. There is a large gap at the top blade because it isn't secured. Do you think this colour scheme is good or should I go for grey case/black fan instead?

>> No.1592721

Also if anyone knows any good metallic PETG filament let me know.

>> No.1592723

>>1592721
I'll add my voice to this request, I've been wanting to print aluminium-looking structural parts for a while now and "silver PLA" both looks a bit off and is way too brittle.

>> No.1592736

>>1591957
I used to use SciGrip (previously WedlOn) all the time for polycarbonate and acrylic projects. It's not legal to ship through certain carrier methods in a variety of states. So I can't order it online anymore.

>> No.1592738

>>1592496
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223214/
Shoots half-length nerf darts

>> No.1592739
File: 217 KB, 1620x1079, 1499089036909.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592739

>>1591345
is that a 3d printed fucking depth stop?
i know what I'm having the designers make for me at work tomorrow.

>> No.1592740
File: 26 KB, 380x308, chubo posso 4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592740

>>1592366
I use these in industry. any old soldering iron inserts them just fine. we have no dedicated tips but try to use the shorter or more wide-angle tips.

>> No.1592743

>>1592739
why though, you can buy them from any hardware store.

>> No.1592779

>>1592743
Or use a shaft collar

>> No.1592795

>>1592721
>>1592723

HERZ maked metallic-looking PETG but nothing silvery, only red, green, blue and dark grey:

https://www.herz-filament.at/en/44-petg

>> No.1592811
File: 45 KB, 872x374, newplot.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592811

What the fuck is going on with my bed leveling?
Those values seem way too high and the visualization would have you believe I'm trying to print on bubble wrap or some shit.
It's an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus if that matters. (pls no delta bullying)

>> No.1592815

>>1592795
Is it more difficult to add aluminium dust to plastic than, say, brass? I see loads of brass but never aluminium. Likewise, I've never seen PETG with actual metal content, just metal-coloured PETG. Sometimes quite good-looking, but always still obviously plastic rather than metal.

>> No.1592816
File: 9 KB, 251x170, Listen.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592816

>>1592811
>delta
I'm going to blame this on Anycubic's shitty autoleveling though, my Chiron had the same issues. Manual leveling is better anyways.

>> No.1592837

>>1592720
Based

>> No.1592842
File: 748 KB, 2080x1560, IMG_20190414_142929191.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592842

What the fuck is going on, how do I get not awful infill? I've always had issues with it, but this is particularly bad.

Monoprice maker select V2
PLA
Extruder 200
Bed 60
0.3 layer height
4mm retraction 35mm/s

Just put on a new nozzle, same issues. I also get similar lack of extrusion at the start of walls sometimes, so it makes me think it's either extruder or retraction related but I'm not sure.

>> No.1592844

>>1592815
Isn't aluminium dust explosive or flammable or something?
>>1592795
Damn. If I can't find any good metallic PETG I'll have to ditch grey and go with black fan + white case instead because non-metallic grey looks crap.
>>1592779
That's exactly what I meant, it's just a shaft collar, widely available in stores.

>> No.1592845

>buy a bunch of filament
>super weird, my prints look awful and keep failing
>look closer
>it's abs
Guess I'm going out to buy those IKEA tables for an enclosure.

>> No.1592846

>>1592837
Thanks anon.

>> No.1592848
File: 2.82 MB, 4032x3024, 20190414_144641.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592848

When should I replace the PEI sheet in my photon? I've used the entire sample bottle plus a liter and a half of the blue and its still printing fine, although I have noticed some odd failures like on this set I printed last night only one of the models failed
It's also getting a bit cloudy even after I clean it with alchohol

>> No.1592850

>>1592845
Lol man you should know what filament you are printing with. I want to enclose an Ender 3 but I heard the heat might fry the PSU. Is this true?

>> No.1592855

>>1592848

FEP sheet, anon, not PEI. You should replace it when it starts getting cloudy.

>> No.1592865

>>1592855
Ah shit yea, dont know where I got PEI
And how cloudy? Like a couple of smudges that wont come out or the whole sheet is hard to see through?

>> No.1592867

>>1592850
That's the thing, I could have sworn I bought PLA. I always buy PLA at this store. I guess they might have mixed them together, or I was just absent-minded when I was buying them.

>> No.1592884

>>1592865

Yeah it can be smudges or the whole film depending on where you've printed. The film starts out crystal clear and gets more torn up and "frosted" the more you print on it. It might be the UV, the peeling action, perhaps both... It's considered a consumable.

>> No.1592929
File: 1.02 MB, 4252x2126, PEI.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1592929

>>1592865
Clearly you long to visit the scenic province of Prince Edward Island.

>> No.1592978

I started 3d printing like 5 years ago, my first print should have been the flexi-rex. Its so fucking satisfying.

>> No.1592981

>>1592848
I get cloudy stuff with opaque resin, clear resins print fine.

>> No.1592994

>>1592929
I was reading about Canada in an old book the other day and apparently that's the poor part of Canada. Is this true?

>> No.1592996

>>1592994
It's poor, yes, but it's really comfy. Beautiful scenery and friendly people.

>> No.1593012

>>1592850
It might not blow up imidiatly but lifetime will be shorten to weeks.
Caps inside have a lifetime rating set for 25degree operation temperature. For every 10 degree more, i believe it was half the lifetime.
At 60 degree You go from hypotheticall 2000 hours to 150

>> No.1593013

>>1592996
>poor
>friendly people
It's weird how poor people are either super friendly or super unpleasant. Never average.

>> No.1593018

>>1593013
I participated in a few food drives when I was younger. The people who donated the most food were always the people who were clearly poor. The rich homes would usually give you like a can or two of cat food and that was if they answered the door at all.

>> No.1593019

>>1593018
If you've ever been mugged, chances are the muggists were poor.
It's always either or. You have those poor who donate more than they probably should, and then you have those poor who wouldn't hesitate to steal from their grandmothers just to buy more crystal.

>> No.1593021

>>1593019
Another thing I noticed is that a lot of people who LOOK rich aren't actually rich. They live with crazy amounts of debt and they do stuff like roll around in a Bentley but live off of cup ramen.
Remember: Old money doesn't become old money by being spent.

>> No.1593024

Has anyone here printed up AR-15 vise blocks?

>> No.1593040
File: 3.33 MB, 4000x2000, IMG_20190414_180802.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593040

Wish me luck

>> No.1593046

>>1593019
It goes by skin colour. The darker the skin, the less pleasant.

>> No.1593072
File: 219 KB, 1200x900, 20190413_184914.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593072

>>1592743

It was well after closing for any store that would have it when I needed it.

I wound up making a bigger one so I could use it on up to 35mm bits.

>> No.1593078

>>1593040
And nothing was ever heard from anon.

Joking aside, tell how it did go, practical prints are kinda the most interesting ones. Also gibbe STL.

>> No.1593108
File: 2.38 MB, 4000x2000, IMG_20190414_181311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593108

>>1593078
Honestly I might not use it or at least not for a couple days. That brass one just came in the mail yesterday and ill probably use it first. Also I cracked one of the lower parts guards when removing it from the build plate PLA probably isn't the best material for it. The handle came out great though.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2702518

>> No.1593117
File: 3.20 MB, 1194x1440, Lost PLA 10-22.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593117

>>1593108
You could try casting it.

>> No.1593163

>>1593108
Sounds reasonable and yes the handle looks nice, the whole thing might even look even better in a mate filament or if you want go full decadence use metal filament. Also thanks for posting the link.

>> No.1593184

What's the consensus on software for the Ender 3 (Running Windows, FWIW)?

>> No.1593198
File: 380 KB, 1938x1836, 20190415_064042.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593198

3dp, i present you teh flexi cat

>> No.1593219

>>1593198
You got some underextrusion issues m9.

>> No.1593220

>>1593219
I was printing too fast, other than the tail its fine.

>> No.1593226

>>1593220
Fair enough. I print everything at 40mm/s, after fucking with my CR-10 for 6-7 months to get my prints perfect Id rather have slow quality than more fucked up prints.

>> No.1593234

>>1592842
What's your print speed?

>> No.1593237

>>1592842
I had to increase my infill width to 0.5 instead of 0.4 to avoid that exact problem.

>> No.1593261

>>1593198
He's cute. What are you going to use him for?

>> No.1593269
File: 23 KB, 800x476, helmet.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593269

Do I really need anything other than fine-grit sandpaper and a clearcoat when finishing 3D printed parts? I've seen a lot of people use things like bondo or other automotive fillers, but I'm not really sure why. Any suggestions on someone who's made large props? I'm aiming to get something a bit less glossy than pic related.

>> No.1593275

>>1593269
Spray on filler primer is the biggest thing I've seen recommended. Cuts down on the sanding by a decent amount and makes it way easier on spots that are hard to sand.

>> No.1593284

>>1593275
Oh so you spray on the filler primer before sanding?
>>1593269
Have you considered XTC-3D? It gives a glossy finish, no sanding needed.
>>1593198
Is that your own design?
>>1593117
Wouldn't you be better off using CNC for this?
>>1592996
Interesting, I had always assumed it was a rich area because it's next to U.S New England.
>>1593013
>>1593019
I think it depends on the environment. If it's a village where everyone is poor everyone will be friendly, if it's a city where they're in the poor part they will likely be bitter and angry about being poorer than their neighbours
>>1593046
It doesn't have anything to do with race, if you go to African village everyone is welcoming. it just sucks being in a city where the guys on the other side of the tracks have things you can't afford.
>>1593021
>a lot of people who LOOK rich aren't actually rich
Yep this is completely true and vice versa.
>>1593012
Fuck, Ok but it's easy to detach and place outside the enclosure right? Does the filament spool need to go outside too?

>> No.1593290

>>1593284
You sand a bit to get rid of any major imperfections, those shitty parts that get laid on supports, and just smooth out the worst of the layers. Then you spray on the filler primer and sand that once its dried, reapply and repeat until you have a completely smooth print. Filler primer is a bit like drywall spackle when its dried, MUCH easier to sand than the plastic itself.

>> No.1593299

>>1593284
>Fuck, Ok but it's easy to detach and place outside the enclosure right? Does the filament spool need to go outside too?
Yes, you either get a xt60 extension and just plug it inbetween or swap the wire, preferable 1.52 or 2.52.
Less than 10 srews

Filament you want outside if the top (hotspot) comes close to the transitioning temperature. Just get the side mount and have the side enclosure between printer and spool.
feed through a small hole with a sponge cover.
And be aware, printed addon parts might fail midprint

>> No.1593319

>>1593290
>>1593299
Ok thanks.

>> No.1593363

>>1593234
60 mm/s
>>1593237
Thank you, I'll give that a go as well.

For reference, I also ran a temperature tower test print, found that the optimal temp for me was 210 not 200, so I'll be giving this another go tonight after work. I may also fuck with retraction testing beforehand

>> No.1593375

im tired of my pos /diy/ printer. its loosely based on prusa i3, but i made some design errors along the way (plus i copied a good portion of their mistakes too). anyways, i currently have a need to print functional mechanical shit (gears, pulleys, etc) and need a fast (~100mm/s), high quality printer. since im /diy/ to a fault, i was thinking about smth like this: thingiverse.com/thing:3382718.
any anons have experience with this printer? its a a cube (a lot more rigid than my shitty prusa clone), has mgn12 rails (was more accurate and rigid than smooth rods) and uses core-xy belt routing (less moving mass, all motors are stationary).
i should be able to /diy/ something similar for ~$600. is there something comparable i can buy outright? are there any better examples than this blv cube?

>> No.1593385

>>1593284
>Wouldn't you be better off using CNC for this?
Sure, but a 3D printer that can print PLA is a hell of a lot cheaper than a CNC mill.
Theoretically, you could use a router, but not with all alloys of aluminum and not particularly fast. Lots of really shallow, low-stepover cuts.
>Interesting, I had always assumed it was a rich area because it's next to U.S New England.
They historically mostly did stuff like fishing. The Fleuve Saint Laurent allowed industry to go very far inland, so the major population center didn't need to actually be on the coast.

>> No.1593386
File: 842 KB, 2117x2822, glass bed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593386

RIP in pieces

>> No.1593395

>>1593386
Yikes. This is why I stopped printing on glass. Very creepy I printed something that looked similar to that last week.

>> No.1593397

The reason why I wanted to enclose an Ender 3 is to contain the fumes, I don't want the cancer. I will be printing PETG so I don't actually need an enclosure. Should I just make a fume hood?

>> No.1593399

>>1593375
I dont know if better but the mkc core xy diy is higly reccomendet in a board i frequent

>> No.1593400

>>1593386
So guys, what are the prospects of using a granite surface plate on a 3d printer? Yes it's hard to heat up, but you could in theory drill holes in it and put the heating elements inside.

Think a printer frame would move the weight around?

>> No.1593403

>>1593397
PETG has really low particulate emissions. ABS and Nylon are the only real culprits in that category, and the solution for that is to use an air cleaner.
>>1593375
>I want accuracy
>I want fast prints (100mm/s)
Those two things aren't compatible. You can print fast but you will sacrifice accuracy in order to get there.

>> No.1593408

>tormach 440 machine + controller = $7k
>3d printer = $300

We'll all get there eventually, right?

>> No.1593409

>Get Ender 3
>Assemble it
>One corner, when loosened to the point of the wheel falling the fuck off is still too low with the opposite corner completely cranked down
>The completely cranked down corner is still too high
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF

>> No.1593410

>>1593409
If it's like mine, it's the metal cover for the electronics parts interfering.

I used a file to chamfer the edge of the 8020 support piece for clearance.

>> No.1593413

>>1593409
I had that issue too until I realigned the gantry and put in uxcell springs.

>> No.1593417

>>1593410
Doesn't seem to. The magnetic thing can if it's misaligned, but it really seems to be just the plate not being parallel enough.
>>1593413
>realigned the gantry
Got a good guide handy?

>> No.1593435

>>1593403
There is no solid proof that even PLA emissions are completely safe so it's best to assume they are not.

>> No.1593437

The little bundle of filament that comes with the Ender 3 is PLA, right? It doesn't seem to be written on any of the documentation I got.

>> No.1593438
File: 155 KB, 1200x900, 1526123203984.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593438

>>1593437
Yes. It's also low quality trash.

>> No.1593439

>>1593438
>>1592631
Meant to quote this post too.
This is the cat I was talking about, but it doesn't seem to be 3d printed. I must've remembered wrong.

>> No.1593441

>>1593438
Figured as much. I'm just using it to get my settings dialed in, so I won't be too broken up about it if it's crap.
Nice cat, btw. Did you make the model?

>> No.1593444

>>1593441
That's what I did too.
Also no, some anon posted it a couple therads ago.

>> No.1593446

>>1593444
Cool, I'll go digging.
Thanks, bud.

>> No.1593483

Does anybody have some recommended resources for learning Fusion 360?

>> No.1593503

>>1593400
Why not try a granite floor tile?

>> No.1593510

>>1593400
>>1593503
How about a pizza stone?

>> No.1593527

>>1593399
as far as i can tell, its basically the same thing, the main difference being that the one i linked uses mgn12 rails instead of smooth rods (way more expensive, but way more stiff and accurate).
>>1593403
i meant fast and accurate when compared to my current setup. atm i can print decent (not good enough though) m1.25 gears @ ~12mm/s or rough parts @ ~35mm/s. if i go above 40-45mm/s everything vibrates and accuracy goes to complete shit.
i saw plenty of people online printing decent quality parts at speed as fast as 100mm/s. my hope is that by drastically increasing rigidity of the frame and all 3 axes and by decreasing the inertia (mass) of any moving parts, i can increase my speed from current 12mm/s to 100mm/s or so without loosing any quality (maybe even improving it).
makes sense?

>> No.1593528

>>1592172
How does this interact with ABL?
Like, if I set layer height to .12, won't the ABL make it step between the magic numbers anyway?

>> No.1593532

>>1592371
Not her, but it's not so much that they're difficult to walk in as that they're uncomfortable to walk in.
Can't run in them though, or move much quicker than a brisk walk really. If you misalign a step you're going to twist your ankle.

>> No.1593551

>>1593483
There is this tutorial on Youtube called "Learn Fusion 360 or die trying" I think it's called. it's very good.

>> No.1593554

>>1593551
Thank you.
I was looking on YouTube but I had no idea which ones people thought were good.

I'll get started on that one right now.

>> No.1593557

>>1593503
>>1593510
Well there's no guarantee those are flat.

Will a 3d printer actually benefit from having a precision flat bed surface and being reasonably rigid?

>> No.1593558
File: 405 KB, 444x4725, Soft Jaws full info small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593558

>>1593483
here's one of the pics i made

>> No.1593559
File: 1.30 MB, 1227x6000, fusion 360 instructions.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593559

>>1593483

>> No.1593560

>>1593417
>Got a good guide handy?
Nah. I just loosened the bolts on the frame, made sure everything was flush and square, and tightened them back up. A big part of the problem was that the bottom bolts loosened up through vibration because I didn't wrench them down tight enough. The gantry was shifting around slightly when I moved the head to a different corner.

>> No.1593566

>>1593557
>there's no guarantee those are flat
There is, actually. Those are made with essentially the same process you use to make sure a piece of metal is flat, running a CNC surface grinder back and forth and cutting down the top layer. Difference is, since they're not metal, there's no risk of them warping or bending.

>> No.1593567

>>1593566
Why would a ceramic tile be ground flat? The machinery making those things reasonably flat is probably not even comparable to a lapped granite surface plate

>> No.1593568

>>1593567
My bad, I thought you were talking about those granite slabs they use in stone ovens. Ceramics probably aren't even slightly flat.

>> No.1593616

>>1593568
>>1593567
>>1593557
You can get borosilicate lapping plates, and with 2 of them it's possible to do a variation of 3 surface lapping for extreme precision. It'll be far far more accurate than you could ever need as extrusion 3d printers are not anywhere near accurate enough in general.

>> No.1593620

>>1593616
>lapping plates
Surface plates

>> No.1593643

>>1593261
Just a toy. Already gave it away.
>>1593284
>Is that your own design?
Yeah, but i took some measurements off flexi rex to get the links right for the first time.

>> No.1593668
File: 82 KB, 590x775, a-ha its you.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593668

>>1592743
not for the sizes i want.

>> No.1593882
File: 100 KB, 1200x1200, Painters Touch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593882

>>1593284
>XTC-3D
I have, but briefly - I've got a pretty big project and it seems fairly expensive for what it is. I'd love to be proven wrong, though.

>>1593275
Is that anything like what pic related is?

>> No.1593890

>>1593882
No thats spray paint with primer...

You want sandable filler primer. This stuff isn't paint, like I said it dries kinda like drywall spackle or wall texture.

>> No.1593897

i had my filament snap on a twelve hour print because it was catching itself on the spindle, i had no problems for the first third of it. is there anyway to prevent this from happening or is it just something to watch out for? using an ender 3 with the holder on a side mount and reprap filament

>> No.1593911

How loud is the average printer?
I live in an old wood apartment, will neighbors below or beside hear it enough to complain?

>> No.1593916

>>1593375
>im tired of my pos /diy/ printer
Then go ahead and buy a proper one

>print functional mechanical shit (gears, pulleys, etc)
>100mm/s
not going to happen mate. Maybe 60mm/s and thats still fast. You'd need a massive hotend for 100mm/s and a cast frame with massive drives. I don't see this on any 4-figure printer. And still the quality would propably be shit.
If you need quantity buy 2 or 3 printers instead of going 100 with just one.

>thingiverse.com/thing:3382718
When you say you're tired of diy printers why do you want to ruin your day with another one?
Just buy a proper printer like a Lulzbot some core xy printer or even a MK3S. There are countless proven printers out there.

And no, you woun't get a super rigid printer that can go super fast at high print quality for 600$.

>> No.1593933

I scaled down my project that required screws, any advice on how I should get screws for it?

>> No.1593934

>>1593916
>>1593375
You can definitely make "mechanical shit" on a printer, WTF are you thinking? Plastic gears and pulleys exist in the real world, too. 100mm/s is too fast, though.

>> No.1593935

>>1593933
Go to the hardware store and find a screw that fits in the hole?

Swear to fuck do people not think even a little bit before they ask a question?

>> No.1593937

>>1593934
I meant mechanical parts @ 100mm/s is not going to happen. A lot slower would work of course

>> No.1593942
File: 28 KB, 596x373, Brain problems.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593942

>>1593937
My mistake, I overreacted there. I've recently interacted with too many people who think 3D printers are some magic fix-all solution and I saw something I thought was the opposite end of the spectrum.

>> No.1593944
File: 105 KB, 800x800, MMU 2.0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593944

Does anybody here have experience with the MMU 2.0? I would like to do multi material printing but my experience with the 1.0 has been less than stellar. Granted, I wasn't the one who set it up in the first place, but it is still kind of a hassle. I've heard they made massive improvements, any truth to it?

>> No.1593949

>>1593916
>>1593934
I printed a planetary gearbox for stepper motors on a stock Ender 3 at 100mm/s. Layer height was only .1 though, you probably need something like a Vulcan heater if you want to print that quickly at higher layer heights.

Print quality was perfect though. As long as your printer is well tuned speed shouldn't noticeably affect print quality. And no printer is going to make the tiny zigs and zags on a gear at full speed anyway, acceleration limits them there.

>> No.1593959

>>1593911
Depends largely on what stepper motor drivers and mechanic you use, there are some pretty silent ones out there.

>> No.1593962

>>1592842
i get this (and bad layer adhesion in general) if i use a 0.2mm layer height (0.4mm tip)
0.16mm layer height works much better (also bonus less visible layer lines) and doesn't really take too much longer to print

>> No.1593966

>>1593916
im not going to buy a premade printer, because i already said im /diy/ to a fault. i never said im tired of /diy/ printers, im tired of my specific shitty one i currently have. i designed it when i was just starting out with 3d printing and was on a tight budget (it cost me ~$200, 4 or so years ago).
also, you seem to misunderstand how printing speed actually works. as >>1593949 said, you dont get full speed on intricate parts (like small module gear teeth) due to acceleration and jerk limitations, but you will get full speed around non-functional parts, ie youll print gear teeth @20mm/s, but gear hub @100mm/s.

>> No.1593979
File: 67 KB, 955x599, pray.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593979

its happening
eta: 1 day 21 hours (and this is only half the print)

>> No.1593981

>>1593979
What are you printing, anon?

>> No.1593985
File: 24 KB, 508x521, lewd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1593985

>>1593981
half of this because last time i tried it failed because it's just slightly too big for my build area

>> No.1593991

>>1593949
>stock Ender 3 at 100mm/s. Layer height was only .1
I made a 55mm/s PETG print @ 0.3mm layer height and that was already a borderline load for the stock Ender hot end. (Set it to max. nozzle temp of 260°C)
The print failed after some hours due to nozzle clog but until then the quality was quite good.
In your case it could also be that you didn't exceed 60mm/s, there are rumours that some Ender fw's are capped at 60mm/s.

>>1593966
Cranking the speed until the jerks can't handle more doesn't seem like a good idea..
And as said you'll get trouble with your hotend thermal energy capacity for big layer heights.

>>1593942
Most lovely reply I received in the past 7 years of 4chan.org

>> No.1593993

is there any point in buying expensive branded filaments (ninjatek, e3d, etc.)? they claim to have way superior printability and qualities but cost twice as much. are they really as good as they claim, or is it just regular pla/abs/tpu/petg with a brand name to fool noobs?
>>1593985
post a vid of you "using" this to pornhub when its finished.

>> No.1593994

>>1593991
Well, my Ender is stock in that I haven't replaced anything. I've installed ABL so the firmware is my own, and the speed is capped at somewhere like 300 since that's more than I imagine I'll ever need. Higher speed for travel moves helps with oozing, but 300mm/s with my retraction settings is enough to move from 0,0 to 200,200 without any ooze.

>> No.1593996

>>1593991
i wasnt planning on printing parts with big layer heights, since i need at least decent accuracy, something between 0.1-0.2mm at most.
afaik, jerk only comes into play during starting/ stoping/ changing direction. if im printing something rather smooth (a cylinder for example), jerk shouldnt come into play no matter if im going 10mm/s or 100mm/s.

>> No.1594006

>>1593991
>>1593996
reading up on jerk it seems that im actually talking bullshit. it does come into play anytime acceleration does (makes sense, its the derivative of acceleration).

>> No.1594007

>>1593991
I got the stock hotend of the Ender3 and print daily with PLA at 80mm/s, 0.16 layers, never a clog, stuff comes out great. Just tune the temps.

>> No.1594012

>>1593993
>is there any point in buying expensive branded filaments
Up to a point yes. For PLA there's not that wide of a range of quality, but there's also dozens of "brands" which are just reselling spools they buy in bulk from whatever random chinese supplier they buy from. The big difference tends to be how well or poorly though spools are packaged, how much recycled filament they contain, and how much pasticizer or pigment they have added.
ABS on the other hand has an annoyingly wide range of quality with the bulk of it performing like garbage, and only a few brands giving consistently good results. PETG can be the same way. I think this is due to how readily both materials can be recycled and the that content varies way more wildly between brands. IC3D and Hatchbox are the only ABS filament suppliers I have never had a bad spool from.

That said, I haven't found the PREMIUM brands to offer a considerable difference in quality across the board. Atomic in particular is just okay and not worth the price unless they have a specific color you just can't live without.

>> No.1594013

>>1593668
But Anon, I really don't recommend putting a shaft collar on your penis. That wouldn't be safe or comfortable.

>> No.1594024

>>1594012
fuck colors, i dont really care about shit like that.
i was looking into getting some petg (only printed pla so far) and was wondering if its worth it to spend more for branded filaments.
i can find 1kg petg on ali for ~$30, while branded filaments cost over $50 (like spoolworks "edge").
so is there a point in spending big on petg specifically?

>> No.1594026

>>1594024
>so is there a point in spending big on petg specifically?
Nope. I tend to buy whatever I need from Amazon because the return policy is easy.

>> No.1594030
File: 1.21 MB, 2560x1440, fanduct.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594030

>>1591923
It's been a few days but I checked things out per your advice, extruder calibration is spot on. As for part cooling, I had to buy a roll of PETG to print out an improved fan duct. Luckily the Ender 3 isn't exactly the pinnacle of good design and improved fan ducts are a dime a dozen. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127 provided the duct and 3 tries later I have pic related.

Rather than just printing it and calling it good I will first print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429 first on the stock cooling and then again with the duct. Same GCode and everything to see if there really is a difference.

>> No.1594032

>>1594012
>materials can be recycled
It's cheaper to use virgin plastic than recycled, at least outside Europe and USA (which, let's be honest, is where 99% of filament is made).

>> No.1594115

>>1591454
I use blender. Once you're done sculpting and all of your parts are booleaned into your mesh, there's an add-on that I believe is built in that you turn on specifically for 3D printing. It'll check if your mesh is manifold and then make it so. Alternatively, export your mesh as an STL and run it through netfabb.

>> No.1594128

>>1591345
Is buying a returned to seller (but not refurbished) printer a good idea?

>> No.1594130

>>1594128
Probably not. It was likely returned for a reason.

>> No.1594136

>>1594130
That reason might just be "I bought it, printed the demo dog, and realised I didn't have any other uses for it. Also, my wife said it's too loud."

>> No.1594143

>>1594136
Questioner here. They give the same warranty as the new ones. Deal is they haven't opened the box since it was returned so I'd have to fix anything myself. It seems like a reasonable risk and a compromise on a full diy build.

>> No.1594145

>>1594143
So you don't know if it's missing any components, you probably won't have the filament that comes with it, etc.
IDK, man. I'd rather just get one in factory condition.
In my experience, "bargains" often end up costing more in the long run.

>> No.1594151

>>1594145
Companies don't offer bargains to save you money, they do it to save themselves money.

>> No.1594221

>>1594143
If it's an Ender 3 don't do it. A return probably has both a warped bed and not properly bent extruder mount, meaning you'll never properly level the bed and will have problems with the Z axis for more or less the entire life of the printer. Unless it's < $60 off (the cost of both of those parts new) it will cost more in the long run than buying a new one.

>> No.1594227

>>1594221
Ah, that's the sort of thing I was curious about, thanks.

>> No.1594264

>>1594221
>bent extruder mount
Mine has this too, ~94° and i will fix it later this week when i replace the extruder.
Its not hard to bend sheet metal, you need a hammer, an edge and some right angle anything to check.
Whats more problematic about the z axis is tgem compensating spindle offset by the nut being loose and reling on spring washers. Id rather use a proper shaft coupler and screw the nut tight

>> No.1594324
File: 1.31 MB, 2560x1440, fanduct 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594324

In response to an anon earlier declaring a need for better cooling on the ender 3 I'm printing two all in one printer tests. One with stock cooling, one with an improved duct. The second one is currently on layer 1, so it'll be a while.
>0.2mm layer height
>PLA
>215C to make good cooling more important

>> No.1594325
File: 1.27 MB, 2560x1440, fanduct 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594325

>>1594324
Pictures always make stringing look worse. It's not bad. It's not good either. Overhang shits the bed at 60 degrees. Bridging is sloppy. Orange stuff is some PETG that was still in the nozzle.

>> No.1594328
File: 1.37 MB, 2560x1440, fanduct 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594328

>>1594325
Here you can see the bowing in the overhang tests and more stringing. Given the temperature I expected worse results than I got. Pics of the next one using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127 probably tomorrow.

>> No.1594329

>>1594324
>>1594325
>>1594328
Shouldve used the fang.

>> No.1594330

>>1594329
Are you shitting me? That thing comes with a fucking chart of pieces that need to be printed, extra bolts that may or may not need to be bought, and is huge all around. Maybe if I'm convinced I need better cooling and this printed duct isn't going to cut it I might consider one.

>> No.1594331

>>1594330
Did you even try when you started this experiment?

Searched "Creality fan mod" sort by number of makes, most popular Fang is an OEM high clearance model that requires absolutely no extra parts.

>> No.1594333
File: 62 KB, 977x602, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594333

>>1593979
welp, support fell over and made a hole in the print. oh well, leaving it running and hopefully i can patch it up with gap filler and a couple coats of abs goo and paint

>> No.1594336
File: 2.27 MB, 4160x2080, 20190416_200455.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594336

>>1594324
>>1594325
>>1594328
Do you NEED to print these at 100% infill?
I stupidly forgot, so it was printed at 10%, but it came out really fucking nice so IDK.
Default "normal" profile on Cura 4.0 for the Ender 3.

>> No.1594338
File: 3.13 MB, 4160x2080, 20190416_200554.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594338

>>1594336
It only started to fail the overhang on the very edge of the 80 degree and did the bridging perfectly.

>> No.1594339

>>1594336
>>1594338
>70 degree+ overhand prints perfect
what the fuck is this witchcraft

>> No.1594340

>>1594338
Instructions say use 30% infill, which I'm currently using. 10% doesn't look like it made any difference. That's a nice as hell print compared to mine. Settings?

>> No.1594350
File: 1.70 MB, 4160x2080, 20190416_131200.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594350

>>1594339
*Shrug*
I only started assembling this printer over the weekend, too.
My Benchy came out really nice on the "draft" settings Cura has. The only part that came out "meh" was the writing underneath, so not exactly a dealbreaker.
>>1594340
Let's see... Bed at 60C, Nozzle at 200C, 0.15 layer height, used a skirt, wall thickness 1mm, top and bottom layers with line pattern, 10% infill (grid), printed at 60mm/s, infill at 100mm/s, walls/top/bottom at 30mm/s...
I don't know what to tell you, man.

>> No.1594364

Polypropylene or glass build plate for the Ender 3?

>> No.1594365

>>1594350
>0.15 layers
that definitely improves it a heap, i use 0.16 but if i go anywhere near 0.2 on my ender it prints absolute shit

>> No.1594368

>>1594365
The Benchy I posted earlier was done with a .2 layer, though.

>> No.1594393

>>1594368
hmm yeah i guess mine used to work at 0.2
maybe its the crappy filament im using.. the cheapest abs i can find

>> No.1594395

>>1594393
Ah, I printed in PLA so that's probably it.

>> No.1594468

>>1593284
>I had always assumed it was a rich area because it's next to U.S New England
It's not, though; it's fuck-off out to sea with all of Maine and New Brunswick in between.

>> No.1594499
File: 218 KB, 999x1275, 20190416_210646[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594499

I have finished my most important print to date.

>> No.1594518
File: 97 KB, 407x407, cfs-General-Purpose-resin-5kg-s.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594518

>>1593882
I use polyester resin for large (500mm longest edge) prints that go into exhibitions. Works just like XTC3D but you can get 5kg of the stuff for less than the tiny xtc kit. You can do gap filling and any structural correcting first and then coat over in polyester with an air gun, and you get a smooth glossy surface straight away. I imagine you can brush it on too but never tried it. If you feel like you might have tons of sanding to do after poly coat then you can mix in a little talc filler and re-thin with acetone, sands a little easier and won't gunk up your sandpaper as much.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm spraying up a prop in the next few days so I'll take process shots and post them here.

>> No.1594532

>>1594518
not the same anon, but please do take pictures. i have been investigating ways of smoothing out printed parts, especially around areas that are more or less impossible to sand.
also, do you have any info on the effect on dimensional accuracy coating with resin has? afaiu, youre using this on props, so dimensional accuracy probably doesnt matter too much to you, but i was wondering if coating printed gears/ pulleys would give good surface finish without messing up dimensions too much.

>> No.1594534

>>1594532
If you want good surface finish on mechanical printed parts, you're better off using SLA printers with a resin formulated for strength, in case you're interested.

>> No.1594539

>>1594534
i would love to, but i do this mostly as a hobby and cant force myself to spend thousands on sla printer + hundreds for resin that ill just throw away.
is there any way to get decent surface finish on intricate parts (like small gears) made with fdm? atm sanding is the only option, but its not really possible to sand small herringbone gears.

>> No.1594541

>>1594539
I've been thinking about this and one solution would be to use a cnc mill (or an attachment for the printer) to mill down an intentionally oversized print to the right dimensions. That way you can get a near injection molded like finish, but i haven't found any elegant way to "oversize" a model in software.

>> No.1594544

>>1594541
Stepper motors and the belt systems most printers use aren't strong enough for a mill.

>> No.1594549

>>1594544
Yeah, but it might be enough for just skimming the outermost layer of a printed part to get thedesired finish. Of course a proper cnc would work better, but i have seen tech2c on youtube pull off milling plywood and pcb's on a hypercube corexy printer

>> No.1594550

>>1594541
i was looking into it, but there are several problems besides oversizing models (i only print my own models, so oversizing isnt a problem for me).
first of all is that most printers couldnt resist forces on the tool, since most of them are designed with 0 forces in mind.
second of all, most printers have open rails/ smooth rods/ belts/ etc, which will quickly clog up during milling. you would need to disassemble and clean/ relubricate most of the printer every time you mill anything.
lastly, tools arent that cheap. if you want any efficiency, youll need several different tools, so initial costs are high.
most of the problems are solved by simply using a desktop mill, but again, thats additional costs and by then printing doesnt make much sense, since you can buy plastic blanks and just mill whatever you need.

>> No.1594581

What's the big difference between all the different enders an CR-10 models?

>> No.1594583

>>1594581
Random features like removable build plates and shit. One of the ender models is a core XY though so thats a big difference.

>> No.1594584

>>1594583
Are the ender 4 or 5 worth it? I'm leaning towards them or either a ender 3 pro or a cr-10

>> No.1594589
File: 1.32 MB, 2560x1440, moddedduct 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594589

Well, time for pics again. This is comparing the most popular one piece duct against the stock on the ender 3.
Compare this to >>1594324

>> No.1594591
File: 1.18 MB, 2560x1440, moddedduct 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594591

Same GCode as >>1594325

>> No.1594592
File: 1.11 MB, 2560x1440, moddedduct 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594592

Compare to >>1594328
I wanted this to be an improvement over the stock fan duct, but it isn't. Not in any meaningful way at least. It looks like I'll have to try a fang duct next.

>> No.1594593

Why does no 3d printer ever use weaker, cheapers steppers and compensate it with reduction gears?
Is there too much backlash?

>> No.1594601

>>1594532
Resin guy here, I'll measure a sample but I'd say the coating is around 300-400 microns but very even if you can spray well. I think if you adjusted in the slicer you could allow for that increase in the slicer. Further thinning with solvent would definitely help in pushing that thickness down a lot.

>> No.1594607

>>1594584
Supposedly the Ender 5 is pretty decent, considering its technically Core XY Id bet it could print better than an Ender 3 with the right profile. That being said its got the same build area, and is almost twice the price.

>> No.1594608

>>1594593
Ender 3 uses stepper motors that cost $15 each anon. How much cheaper do you want? How much cheaper can you get? Are you really saving money buying a $10 motor and $5 in gearing?

>> No.1594610

How do you make compliant mechanisms for 3d printing? Give me a book or something.

>> No.1594611

>>1594499
actually impressive, how was the adhesion on that thing

>> No.1594613

>>1594593
i think you can get printers with servos but i think they end up being more expensive because they need to add a super accurate feedback mechanism

>> No.1594617

>>1594608
Saw these for 3€:
https://www.pollin.de/p/schrittmotor-minebea-17pm-k374bn01cn-1-80-310690

But they're a lot weaker than the typical stepper motors used for 3d printers.

>> No.1594620

>>1594593
gears are expensive, even the cheap sintered metal ones. plastic would be no good as they would wear too quickly and even 0.01mm wear would introduce massive sloppiness in movement

>> No.1594622

>>1591928
Nah, it has a free trial. Trialware is cancer!

>> No.1594623

>>1594620
How about aluminium GT2 pulleys?
They come pretty cheap in different sizes.

>> No.1594626

>>1594623
seems like rubber would work better, rubber pullies are already used on the x & z axis, it would need to be under tension so there was zero play.. without there being so much tension that it adds friction on the stepper shaft bearings.. or bushings as the case may be with a cheaper motor

im pretty sure smaller printers use smaller steppers, or maybe you could get away with smaller ones on the x & z axis and a bigger one on the y because that is carrying the load of whatever you're printing, where as the z is already geared down (if your gantry is on an acme thread) and the x isnt really carrying that much load

dunno, if you wanted to get cost down you could probably do it elsewhere, like dont use a heated build plate, which saves you the cost of the heater and you gen use a smaller power supply

>> No.1594627

>>1594626
actually now that i think about it, since your z is on a screw (thus already geared down) and the x & y are on pulleys already, you could just change the gear ratio of the pulleys. it would just print slower but you could increase the print speed and reduce the extrusion multiplier to get something decently fast

>> No.1594665

>>1594611
Didnt need a raft, but I used a 4 perimeter brim with supports for the body and tail, the head printed fine without them, at .12 layer height on a glass bed with glue stick

>> No.1594679

>>1594607
It also has the same garbage extruder and low end hotend. at least a thick build plate would not impact print speeds

>> No.1594681

>>1594617
Thats industrial surplus, not reflecting oem prices and no infinitive stock

>> No.1594769

>>1594324
>>1594589
I'm propably the fan guide atheist faggot you were refering to previously.
At least you're trying to prove your point and I like this.
Just make proper lighted pics with a cam on a pod next time, it's really hard to make things out.

This made me print the same test now on my stock Ender (I never printed a test before).
Lets see what happens.
.2lh; 30% infill; 207°C

>>1594336
>>1594338
No idea if this anon is using a stock fan guide or a modded one. But his prints look pretty pretty.

>> No.1594771

>>1594769
100% stock Ender 3 Pro (At least for now).
The PLA I'm using was a gift, though, so not exactly sure of the source.
The spool says "CHPSS02" on it.

>> No.1594842

>>1594769
I would take better pics if I could anon. The only camera I have is on an old smartphone, and I'm well aware my lighting sucks ass.
The printer makes a crackling noise as it travels over parts of the print and I'm now 7 hours in. Oh please let that be support that didn't stick.

>> No.1594853

>>1594842
I just finished my test print on my all stock ender.
I'm quite suprised, but I'll wait for the new thread for reveal.

>> No.1594855

>>1594853
Looking forward to it! :)

>> No.1594861

>>1594610
Like these?
https://www.compliantmechanisms.byu.edu

>> No.1594882
File: 411 KB, 1468x635, screenshot_Wed_4:14:05pm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594882

Big fat update on the harpy:
>Body broken up - arms, one leg, and head put into individually printable parts. Right now they glue together but I'll have them snap into place when I'm done.
>Legs adjusted to lose the derpy retard stance from the first print. I know she's a retard but I don't want her to look it.
>Much smaller base.
>Loads of geometry work that nobody really cares about.
>Fuck Wings3D and its "Boolean operations can not be performed on coplanar surfaces" limitation.
>Fuck Blender for needing youtube video tutorials just to do a simple boolean difference.
>Fuck Blender sideways with a rake for its clusterfuck skeleton and rigging system that decided every mesh attached to a bone needed to jump to center on all axes.
>Fuck Blender with a blender for hiding something as simple as separating a combined meshes by loose parts in a menu system so unintuitive that the only way to find the command is to bring up a search menu and type "separate" into it.
>Fuck Blender.
Pic related. Blender was ultimately not involved because it's interface and control scheme was put together by idiots.

>> No.1594887

>>1594882
I like Blender for mechanical stuff but yeah, posing system is fucked for organics. I tried to rig a base body to sculpt armor on top of for a custom knight figure a couple months ago and the bones wouldn't even grab onto the surrounding mesh right.

What did you wind up using for rigging?

>> No.1594888

>>1594607
>Core XY
It's actually an H bot.

>> No.1594889

>>1594887
>Using box modelling for mechanical stuff
Ew

>> No.1594896

>>1594887
I ended up not rigging anything. Just jumped into wings and rotated the meshes on the legs until I was happy with them. The original rip of this model had some really fucked up legs. "radiation induced cancer" levels of fucked up. So I modelled new ones based on pics of Papi online. I kept the thighs, knees, calves, and feet as separate meshes so this wasn't exactly hard.

>> No.1594904

Anyone try ivanthetroll's g17 frame on an ender? Have not seen many results. tried one for shits and gigs w/ ABS and it went with no issues first try

>> No.1594908

>>1594904
I might make one for shiggles since it's legal to do so where I live. Was thinking of just slapping on one of those .22 conversion kits.
What material do they suggest using, again? PETG?
Bet you a .22 could get away with PLA.

>> No.1594910

>>1594904
I love the idea and have it saved just in case someone tries to take it off the internet, but I don't own a G17.

>> No.1594911

>>1594861
Yes.

>> No.1594914

>>1594910
>but I don't own a G17
You say that like it's a problem, even though we're discussing the very solution to it.

>> No.1594918

>>1594914
Anon we've been over this. Printing a lower does not equate to printing a gun and the parts that can't be printed don't come cheap. If I were to put down that kind of money for a handgun I'd pick up a milsurp Makarov or a PX4 and own a gun I actually want.

>> No.1594920

>>1594918
It's not like buying a G17 is cheaper than buying the LPK, barrel, slide and all that (unless you go into the high end aftermarket shit, OFC).

>> No.1594928

>>1594920
It's still a $500 handgun I don't want. I've rented one, ran some mags through it at a range, and didn't like it. Don't know what else to say.

>> No.1594930

>>1594928
That's fair. They're kinda blocky, but if you're printing the frame you can make it to fit your hand like a glove, which is nice. It'll still have a Glock trigger, but there's no shortage of match triggers for them either if that's an issue.

>> No.1594935

>>1594930
Dunno anon. I shot off a few different guns and ended up with a SAO CZ 75B. It's heavy as hell and you can hurt yourself field stripping it but she eats the cheap ammo I feed it and shoots straight so I'm happy. Good luck CC'ing one though.

>> No.1594944

>>1594935
75's are really nice. Pretty high on the list of handguns I want.

>> No.1594948
File: 60 KB, 998x605, files.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1594948

The revised Papi is all done and awaiting a trial run of her snap joints. I'm still in the middle of that fang duct that won't finish til later tonight so probably tomorrow.

>> No.1595009

>>1594908
They recommend Dupont's Zytel filament or Esun PLA+. I think 100% fill density on regular ass PLA would hold up for at least a few mags?

>>1594910
The roll of Zytel is $90, the slide/spring/barrel kits are $300 or less. Parts kit for $120 or less. It's fun to be able to crank them out for $100+ less than retail. Significantly more customizable as well in terms of ergonomics if you're comfortable with 3d modeling

>> No.1595014

Is getting something like an Ender 3x worth it if I just wanna print random shit off the internet?

>> No.1595031

My ender 3's shroud thing covering the hot end is fucked. Absolutely wretched from failed prints forcing filament into it. Can I remove the thing altogether or will this cause issues?

>> No.1595070

>>1595014
Overall no
If you have some other hobby you are looking to supplement, like D&D or flying RC planes, then sure a cheap machine for custom peices is fantastic
But if you are just going to set it up and print 1000 low poly pikachu and flexirexes your better off just subscribing to r/3dprinting and living vicariously through them

>> No.1595080

>>1594539
the Anycubic Photon is only ~$440 and AFAIK is material-agnostic as long as it uses the right wavelength to solidify

If you use ABS, you can (carefully) use acetone to get a good surface finish

>> No.1595083

>>1594622
>free trial
>can use it indefinitely
Either you interpreted the license wrong or you don't know what "trial" means

>> No.1595088
File: 15 KB, 552x341, 1532712271psykokwak.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1595088

>>1594882
just pirate maya lol

>> No.1595089

>>1595070
This is honestly the best advice I've ever heard some give for "should I start 3D printing". You should know what you want to print in a general sense and where you want to take your printing before you start looking for a printer.

>> No.1595108

>>1594948
>>1594882
Dude, FDM is a terrible idea on a complex and fine model like this one. Use STL.

>> No.1595115

>>1595070
Well, that's the thing, I don't really have any specific hobby that would demand a 3d printer, I just occasionally come across this addon,mod to something or trinket and think to myself "well it'll be nice if I could print that".

PLA is $9.73/kg, ABS is $10.22/kg locally and the ender 3x doesn't seem that expensive. PETG is what seems to be expensive at $19.14/kg.

The bad part is that I have no 3d creation ability myself whatsoever.

>> No.1595124

>>1595115
you can always learn, anon. fusion360 and blender are both free and quite easy to use (at least you can find 10 youtube tutorials on anything you can imagine).
if you just want some 3d printed parts then and now, just befriend someone in your area who has a printer. a lot of people will only charge you for material and shipping if its not something too difficult.
also realize, that 3d printers arent as plug-and-play as most gadgets are. you will always need to fix or improve something, youll need regular lubrication, cleaning, tuning, etc. its too much work for most use cases.
>>1595080
afaik, the material is very reactive with air and needs to be used up asap or discarded. it also expensive as hell, especially materials with decent mechanical properties.
also, cancer. my printer is in my living room, and i dont have a workshop atm. i dont even print abs during winter, only pla.

>> No.1595128

>>1595115
Have you ever looked at a fancy end table and thought "man I should buy a lathe tha'td be cool to make" or seen a cute plate and decided that you should buy a kiln?
If you dont have a direction in mind then it's most likely going to be wasted on you because you'll print 3 or 4 things fuck something up and decide it's not worth the hassle anymore

>> No.1595144

>>1595128
Well, I've not thought about buying a kiln as I know for sure that I don't have the skills to use that, but putting together a 3D printer kit seems to be like putting together other model or electronic kits which seems to be learn-able and for tinkering around with, but yeah, I should probably read up and think it over some more.

>>1595124
I don't know of anyone who has a 3d printer, cheapest quote I got at a local store is $6.50/hr PLA, $8.15/hr PETG/ABS/Nylon, $9.75/hr Wood/TPE using Infinity3DP X1 (V8/X1E/X1+/X1 PRO) or PING (EDU/270/300) FDM printers. 30hrs of PLA printing would be enough to buy my own Ender 3X, while I'm not knowledgeable in the world of 3D printing, I do understand that prints take a really long time.

>> No.1595148
File: 3.16 MB, 4160x2340, IMG_20190417_210449.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1595148

Made some eggs

>> No.1595160
File: 1.75 MB, 3036x3036, rGnaUWz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1595160

Made some pots

>> No.1595197

>>1595144
idk what to tell you mate, if you think its worth it, go for it. i would also include material and time to assemble, tune and service the printer into your calculation. it should be at least double that (60hrs). btw, who charges for print time? i havent ordered any prints in a while, but everyone was charging for grams of material (with exceptions ofc).
anyways, i just cant fathom why people who have no experience in 3d modeling and have no intention in learning it would ever buy a 3d printer. but thats just me, i have never even printed a part designed by someone else.

>> No.1595223

>>1595083
You can't use it indefinitely. That's what I'm saying. It's like a year trial.

>> No.1595229

>>1595223
Year license. I renewed a few months ago; they never asked me to buy a thing.

>> No.1595274

New Thread
>>1595273

>> No.1595432

>>1594887
>I tried to rig a base body to sculpt armor on top
to pose just use the edit mode, I only use rigging for animation

>> No.1595443

>>1595148
>>1595160
Fuck, that's nice!

>> No.1595467
File: 103 KB, 458x438, 1491622262357.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1595467

>>1595124
>blender
>easy to use