/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I've got a little bit of suring up to do, and I have to reprint the right wing due to some light warping
Overall though it came out way better than I was expecting, especially since I was in a rush and didnt edit the auto supports

Did I make a good purchase? I'm sick of my printer going brrrrAAAAAAAAAAAAM when doing horizontal lines. I ordered the set with 4 TMC2130.

Also, does anyone in here use the MKS TFT controller? How reliable is the USB port on it?

Hey, I made two of the pics on the collage.


Currently working on one of those 105mm projectile whiskey stashes. I had to chop the thingiverse model into smaller chunks to fit my printer, so I split it at the driving band so I can use copper filament on that part.

>>1585206
Marlin 2.0 for 32bit boards is still in early alpha for some and pretty advanced on others. If your motors only eat 1,2A, 2130s are the way to go

My 3d printer uses 2A motors, and since it's the 21st century, I got them running on tmc 2100s but they only provide 1.2A and it's not enough. So I looked and there are two options : tmc 2160s with the trinamic breakout board or tmc 5160s on a stepstck. Both are about the same price but my main issue is to get them working with Marlin. Is using a 2160 as a 2130 in software able to do the trick (as they're apparently quite similar)?

>>1585260
It has an LPC, so it probably runs Smoothieware.
Which is a much better firmware than Marlin.

>>1585206
>>1585206
You're getting the backwards mounted trinamic chips - these have worse cooling overall. I also made the same mistake of ordering five of them and one in the set was a dud. YMMV

K guys I am looking for an idea of a case for the device on pic related, with a removable battery. The requirements would be: no tools to swap battery and as sealed as possible.

I guess a cover like in a TV remote would work but to make that work I would need to really to set the accuracy standards up.

The switch on the right bottom corner could use some protection so I don't accidentally unflip it.

>>1585338
Use threads for the battery sort of like a flash light.

>>1585191
Holy, that looks good, what filament did you use, I personally love that colour

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUta9HpiKn4

has science gone too far

>>1585458
Its resin, anycubic brand light blue specifically

>>1585482
That's an interesting concept for sure. I have to wonder how that would do for repeatability of builds, though; if you buy a shelf and it had been dropped or a victim of forklift abuse, you'd be out of luck and would likely have a hard time noticing it. Your print bed surface absolutely needs an autoleveler as shown in the video. Those shelves are also going to differ from manufacturer to manufacturer as well, so the ease of replicating the build across the world is hindered. But it seems like a neat concept to get otherwise prohibited print volume available.

>>1585482
That shelve and that plank has horrible tolerances. Also the chrome coating can have bubbles etc. (ok this could be sanded)
But I like when people go beyond so why not

What can I use to coat prints to make them foodsafe? I had read salad bowl finish but looking for other possibilities incase that doesn't like sticking to plastic.

I'm making soem prints in TPU. THey won't stick without a brim, and the brims are a PITA to remove because it's TPU. Is there any way to make local brims in Cura to keep them sticking? Any other ideas?

>>1585633
>Is there any way to make local brims in Cura to keep them sticking?
Not really. You have to add them to the mesh.

>>1585633
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su_m5zV9rvA
here you go

>>1585681
You can't use the support blocker to add local brims, I tried. Only works with local infill, etc.

Is there a point in buying 3D printer parts separately for better quality? For example, buying printer + electronics + 0.2 nozzle.
I'm interested in printing smaller precision parts in ABS.

>>1585731
yes

>>1585731
Only if you know what you're doing. You're better off assembling a 200$ kit (or Ender 3) first, get the hang of things, and then start swapping out parts imo.

>buys ender 3 pro out of an impulse
>doesn't know what to print beyond some printer parts
>is trapped within a white pla roll due budget limitations

how come I didn't see it coming

Hey anons, I just built my Ender 3 today, and we're having some trouble with the bed.

First, when it arrived, it was very loose and janky. We had to tighten the nuts on the underside of it for it to stay snug.

Second, whenever I try leveling the bed, using the printer paper method, it seems that leveling one side always puts the other side out.
We did manage to get it pretty well levelled on all 4 corners one time, but when we did and tried to print, the nozzle scraped along the plate, marking it with the outline of the test file.

Could this be a problem with my printer's bed, or is it us being retarded?

Thanks

>>1585774
All aluminum printer beds including all ender 3's ever made are warped. You're measuring the gap between the nozzle on 4 points when everywhere else on the rest of the bed is at a different height because of warping. This is why people resort to ABL or manual mesh leveling.

>it seems that leveling one side always puts the other side out

That's a consequence of having the bed float on springs, nothing you can do about that except remember whenever you lower or raise a corner, it will do the opposite to the remaining three corners.

> the nozzle scraped along the plate, marking it with the outline of the test file

You need to basically get down at eye level with the nozzle and visually observe it moving across the entire bed and try to adjust the bed level so that you don't scrape anywhere while still having it be close enough to stick. Personally I got fed up with this shit and sanded the build plate on a granite surface to make it flatter.

>First, when it arrived, it was very loose and janky. We had to tighten the nuts on the underside of it for it to stay snug

None of this shit arrives assembled right. You need to go over the entire printer using some youtube build videos and make sure that it's assembled properly, everything is square and mods you need to make to avoid known problems. First one would be some kind of filament guide to stop the filament from sawing through the plastic extruder.

>>1585537
>>1585544
There's no reason why he couldn't just use regular extrusion to make the bottom rails. Pretty much the whole point of cartesian style printers is that you can make it as big as you want just by extending rails and timing belts.

can anyone tell me if the ender 3 can print a inner Diameter 15mm pipe without inner supports?
>>1585748
any particular hobbies beside 4-chan?
might find a use soon
i intend to use mine for bike tuning
>>1585774
you might have fucked up your nozzle there

>>1585780
Ah shit. I'll measure the bed and see just how bad it is.
manual mesh leveling requires me to flash a new firmware on my printer, right? I might just invest in some method of ABL. I don't want to accidentally brick my shit by being a retard.

Thanks anon.

>>1585783
I was worried about that. Should be fine if filament is still pushed out of it though, no?

>>1585745
I actually built CNC cutter few years ago and it's still working. I think I'll be ok, but my main problem is that I have no idea what's decent these days.
Ceetus looks nice in construction with good rails, but I'm not thrilled by software and electronics there. Ender 3 looks kinda ok, and so far is my main candidate. Are delta printers pain in the ass to calibrate and maintain?
3D printing market is almost like drones now, thousand of brands and lot of them overchardging you just because it's popular.

>>1585731
>>1585814

It's goint to end up costing you more because you'll always be inclined to buy nicer components. For ABS you might want to look for a design that allows enclosing the build area. Not sure why you insist on ABS though...

https://youtu.be/FrLicMf4B9k
>remote drive extruder cable
ok this is epic
can someone redpill me why this is a bad idea other than costing $100?

Anyone know how to model those nut inserts in the Prusa parts on Solidworks? Picture related but for hex nuts instead.

>>1585828

It looks a lot like the Flex3Drive that has been available for years. From what i've read about it over the years it works well, but is a little expensive for what it is. Price is nearly identical too - 80£ (105$). I don't think it offers that much of a benefit on moving bed printers like the Ender3 because you're only making one axis lighter. The best application ought to be Ultimaker and Delta style printers.

>>1585834
You pick out the square or hex nut you want to use in the McMaster-Carr catalog. They have CAD models for almost every ridiculous little thing they sell that has dimensions and you can import that CAD model into your assembly.
Size the slot for the kind of fit you want (slip, snug, or press-fit.
Chop out just that part of the model as a coupon and test-print it.
See if the feature prints out the way you want and if the hardware actually fits into it.
Adjust the CAD model if it doesn't fit the way you want and try another test-print of just that area.
Once you have known-working dimensions you can just duplicate that feature for elsewhere on the model.

>>1585824
>It's goint to end up costing you more
That's probably true

Friendly reminder to not go above 240C or probably safe to just stay away from that temp on your Ender 3 or PTFE based hotend. Took mine apart to clean today and found black gunk all around the outside of the PTFE from being cooked that one time I did a temp tower that went to 250C.

>>1585869
Apparently capricorn XS is save up to 250C and OK up to 300C if the room is ventilated

>>1585828
what you gain in not having a lateral bowden you loose in having a rotational bowden.

>>1585869
I've never taken my CR10 above 220 and found the same black crap on the last centimeter of the Bowden or so. I think it starts to break down eventually just from going from cold to hot so much.

Is there a way to check my chink bl touch without installing it? I don't really have time to set it up now and just want to make sure I do not have a defective unit.

How mental am I to try and funnel multiple model rocket engines' ejection charges in order to ignite an upper stage?
I was thinking of printing something similar to a performance exhaust collector. Pic related.

>>1585780
>ABL
What's this?
>>1585842
>McMaster-Carr catalog. They have CAD models for almost every ridiculous little thing they sell that has dimensions and you can import that CAD model into your assembly.
Not that anon but thanks, this is awesome to know.

>>1586133
I might just be misunderstanding the goal but unless youre going to cast the part in galvanized steel that will never work. Those Estes rocket engines exhaust only a couple hundred degrees below 3000 F.

>>1586133
The ejection charge is an explosive that is intended to deploy the parachute/whatever. Spraying burning hot gas to set things ahead of it on fire is specifically not a design goal. Engines intended for use in a lower stage have bare fuel on the front end with no ejection charge. As the fuel burns through the front, it shoots a jet of fire into the back of the next-stage engine, which is ideally butted directly against it.

>>1586133
>>1586156
And to add to this, if you want to have a multi-engine first stage with a single-egine second stage, you do it like this: second stage is a standard engine located in the center. Directly below the second stage engine is a booster engine as previously described. Clustered evenly around the booster engine are plugged engines. These have capped front ends with no ejection charge, so they just burn out when the fuel is gone.

Naturally, this runs into difficulties with synchronizing the engines' actions, so it's usually preferable to have a single larger engine rather than a cluster of several smaller ones. But whatever, if it goes wrong, it had a good chance of doing something cool.

>>1585774
Just wanted to update to this.
I whipped out a steel ruler to see if there was any warping on the bed, and it seems fine. No bulging or bowing, and it looks pretty uniform across the whole bed.

I got a couple hours into the test print before it became detached from the plate and the nozzle bumped into it. What it did manage to print looked really good though.

Today I'm going to try printing the benchy since the dog that comes with the Ender 3 takes 5+ hours and uses a fair bit of plastic that I don't want wasted on failed prints.

Hopefully I can get the bed leveled properly this time.

>>1586176
You'll find out soon enough that the first few months of 3d printing are riddled with failed prints. It's a learning process. Trial and error. That first entire roll of filament is nothing but a sacrifice to the goal of both you and printer not catastrophically fucking up. You'll get lucky once in a while but it will be some time until you reach the "set it & forget it" level that makes 3D printing look so easy. So keep at it.
One other piece of advice. Thingiverse has a cable chain being one of the most popular mods for your printer of all time. Don't print the thing. Most "improvements" are snake oil, so stick to the ones that don't waste too much of your time printing.

>>1586248
Yeah, I'm starting to realize this now.
I checked the metal bed for any warping a second time, and found that the centre dipped about 1-2mm.
I'm assuming this is why I'm having trouble getting the plastic to adhere to the bed in some places.
I've been looking around and people suggest getting a glass bed and putting some thermally conductive silicone under it. You reckon this would help?

>Thingiverse has a cable chain being one of the most popular mods for your printer of all time. Don't print the thing
I didn't plan on it desu. I thought it'd be better to just print some clips and route everything using those.

>>1586137
Maybe but it's a short burst and I've never had the cardboard body tubes they're made of catch fire. I don't think Estesc would allow that.

>>1586159
The problem is the only plugged engine I'm aware of is their D size.

I know the cluster is possible because I proved my douche bag shop teacher in middle school wrong. My idea got shit on and I guess I'm still bitter that the two drug addicts got all the attention for shoving an F motor in.
>still seething over 20 years later

>>1586248
>One other piece of advice. Thingiverse has a cable chain being one of the most popular mods for your printer of all time. Don't print the thing. Most "improvements" are snake oil, so stick to the ones that don't waste too much of your time printing.
I've been using that as part of the trial and error, actually. I've been printing it one piece at a time and tinkered around with the cura settings every few prints.

>>1586260
The cardboard tubes dont experience the heat, its funneled out the hole in the middle. The tubes are also usually snugly fitted into the silo that holes them as well.
>>1586248
>snakeoil
They look, the troll from last thread. Must be salty from printing all the good mods and not being smart enough to get them to work right.

>>1586410
Later this summer I'll run a bunch of ground tests.

>>1586258
How did you miss it the first time? You are now realizing that 1-2mm is 10 to 20x the height of one layer and the level of precision required to make this work right.

A bed that dips in the center is better than one that sticks out. You can print/ make little wedge jacks to stick between the bed and carriage to force the bed up.

this seems like a good idea

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2702518

Is it really a huge struggle to level a Photon's bed? I have an opportunity to get a barely-used one for $300 (because he hatred leveling the bed) and while I'm not intimidated by leveling the bed, I've only had a semi-auto leveling Cartesian FDM, a full-auto Delta FDM, and a Form 2 so I don't know dick about leveling a Photon bed.

>>1586588
>printing a razor

impressive someone can get their filament that sharp

>>1586592
I though it was literally loosen the bed holder, lower the bed into the tank until it bottoms out, tighten the bed holder. I'm not sure how that can be seen as hard.

>>1586410
Three thousand degrees may sound like a lot, but it needs time to do any damage. A propane blowtorch is about three thousand degrees too, and it would take a while to burn through the cardboard tube that houses the fuel. They can get a little direct exposure to hot gas as the fuel burns, but the material is a decent insulator that chars (absorbing heat) instead of melting. An ejection charge is a brief explosion, not a continuous burn, and the expansion of the gas cools it. It's enough to char tissue paper or melt a thin plastic parachute, but it doesn't bother even thin cardboard tubes.

>>1586596
>works with standard blades

>>1586611
>melt a thin plastic parachute
In the early 90s me and my brother launched some dollar store barbies with Estes rocket motors. The ejection charge tended to just blow a small hole in the doll's neck.

First for Hubba Bubba Bubble Jug

Late for Hubba Bubba Bubble Jug Pew Pew

>>1586617
How did you attach it?

>>1586621
Do you make airsoft parts too :^)

>>1586621
Drinking and posting is bad for you, Cap

>>1586248
Oh no one of these "It took months of tweaking until my prints got good so everyone else also has to mess around for months too or he's faking it" faggots.
My first print ever was literally perfect.
I also never printed a heattower or other "test models" and never will.

>>1586655
>My prints are perfect!
>No, I haven't tried any other settings. Why do you ask?

>>1586592
Is he a fucking gorilla? How often did he knock his prints off with a hammer that leveling the bed became a problem
It's super easy to level the photons bed, it's a little more nuanced than >>1586604
Says, but yea that's pretty much it except you take the vat out first and use the classic paper method to be sure its even

>>1586655
Perfect first prints here too. It doesn't stay like that; most of the experience you gain is how to recognize when shit is fucked and what is causing your shit to be fucked.

A followup to >>1585869
I was having under extrusion, stringing and skipping extruder issues for the longest time. I thought it was caused by bad PLA because I switched to a new spool right when it started happening and got worse with another even lower quality spool. But when I went to clean it out the other day I saw that the PTFE tube wasn't even cut square so that it could press flat against the back of the nozzle without a gap. A little trim job and a fresh new nozzle installed and it's printing better than new.

Cool, but the one I printed with supports wont keep closed, and the one w/o them has some failed surfaces

>>1586513
My eyesight is fucking horrendous
At first I didn't see any gap, both when the bed was heated and when it was cool. I had to measure it a handful of times, and get a second opinion.

I have some borosilicate glass arriving today, which hopefully remedies it until I replace the alluminium sheet with a truly flat one sometime next week, though that's a little out of my comfort zone.
I just hope the glass works,

>>1586667
>oh my prints are perfect
>lets change all settings

>>1586588
Bad idea because the nice feature of safety razors is that you can adjust the blade angle with the bottom screw.
The plastic one has a fixed angle

>>1585482
People think of 3D printers as those incredibly precise machines but in reality pretty much anything will work

>>1586588
Just get this:
https://www.amazon.de/Wilkinson-Sword-Classic-Rasierer-Klingen/dp/B0012Y1FCK/

>>1585278
Sheeeeeeyt

Which one should I have gotten instead?

>>1586863
I'm sorry using slicer profiles is so hard for you.

>>1586827
My glass arrived earlier. I actually managed to level the bed pretty well. I have a test file printing right now, and it actually adhered to the bed the whole perimiter of the model.

It's looking promising so far, 20 minutes in and no issues. This might be the one.

>>1585790
ABL also requires a new firmware.

>>1586867
I already have a chink merkur futur clone and two more chink razors in the mail

>>1586864
Not all of them are adjustable
https://www.primandprep.com/types-of-safety-razors/

>>1587041
holy autissimo
but as stated in the article, I like to adjust the agressiveness of the blade for different regions.
Thats an improvent compared to 7blade(tm) gilettes

Does anyone have a source with a real comparison of engineering grade plastics when printed? I find a whole lot of contradictory information or blurbs that just aren't very useful.

Particularly ABS, nylon, acetal/delrin and I guess PETG.

>>1587098
Basically, I'm printing ABS right not and not too happy with Z-axis strength, layer adhesion, and warpage. Layer adhesion is probably the biggest thing because some parts just need strength in all directions including tensile and shear loads. I need a real structural plastic that is fairly durable when exposed to the elements so not PLA.

>>1587098
Puah, printed emodulo strength is difficult to compare to injection molded technical plastics due to the layer nature. Layer orientation matters a lot in technical parts.

For home use nylon seems to be the toughest over all.
PLA is easy to print but brittle.
PETG is replacing ABS in thr strengh field. It's a bit more flexible than PLA and quite durable. It can quite keep up with standard injection molded plastics.
Racecar anon uses 300€/kg carbon fibre enforced filament which is super tough.

Try it yourself I guess.

Search for "filaween" on youtube. That dude compared a lot of filaments in not so scientific strengh tests.

>>1587103
Thanks, I'll look into it I guess. Unfortunately I have 3kg of ABS left because I was told back when I bought it ABS for structural, PLA for not. Don't really feel like messing around with different materials now.

>>1585814
>I actually built CNC cutter
It's really not any different, just a few more wires and the minor risk of fire

I'm surprised nobody's talking about the newly-released Form 3. Unfortunately, doesn't look like the Form 2 will be getting any cheaper.

>>1587253
We cant afford it
Theres a reason the only printer /3dpg/ talks about is the ender3

new ender anon here

anyone ever had a warped bed carriage or can we add this to stuff worth checking?
im shimming the springs with some washers

>>1587282
Why is /3dpg/ poor? The rest of /diy/ have aircraft hangar sized workshops full of the latest machine tools and are constantly bragging about their $40 an hour union job.

>>1587343

They're probably boomers that aren't very interested in 3d printing and think it's just for making dildos and weeaboo trinkets. Which isn't *too* far from the truth...

>>1587098
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/307910791_Experimental_Characterization_of_the_Mechanical_Properties_of_3D_Printed_ABS_and_Polycarbonate_Parts
>>1587103
Interestingly PLA has a higher yield strength than ABS which is one of the reasons why I said my PLA fan would not break apart from centripetal force alone. But it is brittle so still not ideal. I want to print in PETG but can't find any good yield stress data on it. Nylon is hard to print and carbon is dangerous, I wouldn't use it except with industrial equipment.
>>1587111
No definitely try PETG it has all the benefits of PLA and ABS with few of the downsides. ABS is old news.
>>1586260
AFAIK solid rocket motors burn from the centre outwards.
>>1586133
Maybe print it then line it with ceramic or something.

>>1587356
>No definitely try PETG it has all the benefits of PLA and ABS
It doesn't have the rigidity of PLA nor can it be acetone smoothed/welded like ABS

>>1587308
ok, it did work and i made an XYZ cube.
A little chatter on the letter but otherwise the best print i ever did. im seriously impressed so far

>>1587366
True. I would have still chosen ABS fo this reason if it weren't for ABS parts having bad tolerance. Pretty sure PETG can be friction welded though.

>>1587366
It also can't be easily glued or painted. People saying "stop using PLA, PETG is just as good for fine detail" tend to miss that when many of us want fine detail, it's because we're printing miniatures that we intend to later paint. Buying a bunch of PETG only to find out that every readily available hobbyist paint just runs off of it is a disappointment.

>>1587396
I think it's more for technical parts even though it does print detail good.

>>1586655
This desu. bought a rpusa i3 mk3s and upon turning it on and adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the bed and doing the auto calibration wiazard (takes less than 12 mins) I was setting and forgetting runescape pets and slayer monsters by the end of the first 24 hrs. Already successfully printed ivan the trolls g17 files as well. Prusa is the way to go if you can afford, Only calibrated once, been rocking on ever since.

>>1587343
at this point there should be a 3dpg and a 3dpgp for poor printers. Nothing against ender users, but anytime I mention owning or using a prusa I get told I'm a retard who got soaked because I could afford a better printer than them. And there they are bitching on 4chan about how they can't get their prints to adhere to their glass bed that didn't even come with their printer and is held on with paper clips.

>search for ages but can't find m_bergman 1:100 tank models
>discover that "Wargaming" issued DMCA takedowns on everything tagged "tank"
World of Tanks a shit, War Thunder best tank game.

>>1587427
If you think you catch a bunch of shit, try living in the delta camp for a while. They won't even give us the time of day.

>>1587436
Delta's suck though.

t. delta operator

>>1587427
I've never bitched about Prusas, but of course morons who pointlessly mod their printers are going to be morons. My Ender printed perfectly well in the stock configuration, the only mod I've added was a bed leveling probe. In terms of what you get/what you paid, the Ender beats the Prusa handily. The difference comes down to taste at that point, for instance the Ender looks more professional and has a better screen, while the Prusa comes with bed leveling already made and firmware updates, if you bother with them, are less of a hassle.

A filament spool holder that requires only 1.4m of filament, anyone interested?
fuck wasting plastic btw

>>1587438
Are you that guy with that huge ridiculous delta printer?

>>1587460
Yes.

>>1587447
You definitely get what you pay for, that is for sure. Knowing the Prusa support is there if you have any questions is nice, on top of having an extremely extensive FAQ and forum section on their website.How is the ender customer support and forums? Or am I on them right now?
The only thing I want to compare it to is bho for some reason. I feel like the Ender is open blasting: laborous, wastefull, innefecient. The prusa is a closed loop system: a dewaxing column, active circulation pump, and 50lb resevoir of gas.

Maybe even buying a project car (ender) compared to buying a running car (prusa)

>>1587465
You do know your experiences with your huge overpriced shit delta aren't really that applicable to something common like a kossel?

>>1587466
Do you need Prusa customer support? I've never needed Ender customer support, so I've never tried contacting them, but at a guess I'm going to say they're abysmal. Looking at their reddit community, your biggest hope for help is other users (which I think is actually fair enough, 3D printers are as much a community thing as any other craft) or a Chinese bimbo who somehow is in contact with the company leadership.

How is the Ender wasteful? I'll agree that it's a fair bit noisier, but if you're like me you don't sleep next to printer anyway so that's not really an issue, it's certainly not something I think makes it worth spending that much more money on. The Ender uses as much filament to print a thing as the Prusa, I don't think it's a valid criticism.

Are the Ender 3 print beds stable in terms of flatness once they come to temperature?
The carriage looks like it could be problematic.

>>1587253
Form 2 has pretty much the best print quality for its price. You can only get better resolution from a projector based printer with a focal reducer.

It's 10/10 for jewelry work, but it's garbage for technical stuff because the parts warp so much during curing, in pretty much every direction

What is better about Form 3?

>>1587474
In Octoprint you can see a slight zig-zag in the bed temperature, but it doesn't noticeably affect print quality. The Ender3 uses bang-bang instead of PID for the bed, which is usually okay because the bed is a larger mass and isn't as adversely affected as a nozzle would be, but anecdotally you can get rid of some layer lines if you flash the firmware and enable bed PID. These layer lines would imply that the bed slightly changes when it's actively heated and when the bang-bang lets it cool off for a second, but I couldn't tell you if the metal really changes that much considering we're only talking about half a degree Celsius.

>>1587484
>but it doesn't noticeably affect print quality
It does, it creates a pattern that can be mistaken for z-wobble

>>1587447
>>1587466
>>1587472

Jesus my printer is literally printing better than new.

Remember kids, if your ender 3 starts producing shitty prints then it's time to do some nozzle maintenance / put on a fresh nozzle.

Prusalets wish they could print this good.

>>1587504
Supports came off almost flawless and no warping that I can see at all.

Oh and 0.1mm layer height produces so much stiffer parts.

>>1587504
That filament looks so good

>>1587506
wow

>>1587506
Fuck, I thought higher layer heights produced stronger parts. No wonder shit keeps falling apart with this .8mm nozzle

>>1587504
>>1587506
ohhh lawd jesus that is beautiful.....
what material? what heat bed is that? can I suck your printer's dick?
the longer I post here the more I feel like I got ripped off buying a £700 prusa

>>1587504

This looks like those fake nice looking prints that chinese sellers put on the bed of the printer for the listing photo

>>1587545
Garbage grey D3D sigma PLA that I got for $15 leaf dollars. It was underextruding, stringing and leaving zits everywhere until I put on a new nozzle and trimmed the PTFE to be flatter.

>>1587551
Not going to lie, the print stuck so good that It pulled the bed surface up and now there are bubbles under my pretty blue bed.

>>1587479
Interesting thing is you could go back a few years, replace every instance of "3" with "2" (and "2" with "1"), and arguments like that would still be valid. I don't know if there's much of an improvement, and there are still a lot of (frustrated) people who use the Form 1 because of the whole price-vs-quality thing. Sucks that they stopped supporting it, the Form 1 we have at work is gathering dust because they don't make replacement vats anymore and everybody else I've found charges >$100 for them.

I often have to design a part that needs to fit in some annoying curved thing.

Would this be useful for measuring shit like that?

>>1587573
Radius/fillet gauges exist for this exact reason.

>>1587575
Don't these only work for circular curves, not elliptical?

>bought 12V 40mm fans for i3 clone because the other set had fucked bearings and cracked housings
>i3 clone outputs 24V on headers
>runs sweet, tad bit loud but whatever
>fan control sounds fucking loud as shit
>put two in series and into one header
>quickly model up a cooler
>duct points to the top of the nozzle, oops
>now taking slightly longer to reach 200 degrees

Everything went slightly better than expected. The janky ass 24V radial I managed to buy helped, but the housing cracked and the design I had for the hotend cooler decreased the effective build height by about 50mm.

>>1587573
Pic related is the best method I know for transferring annoying curves on paper.
Strap a pencil to a ruler (standing on the longest edge), keep the ruler always parallel and move it along the curve. With little effort you can get a decent accuracy. Essential when you must fix a shelf / countertop to an uneven wall.

>>1585123
mrs. Turtle needs some higher rocks and some more water. if I print a stand out of material which material would be best considering my turtle is going to drink its own water eyes open I don't want to poison her by having plastic leach into her water.

I have ABS, ASA, AND PETG.

I'm leaning towards ASA more than ABS but arent water bottles made if PETG? But even water kept in those bottles for too long taste plasticy. Any suggestions?

>>1587687
Can't you just get like, a rock

>>1587687
Find real rocks and don't worry about toxicity.

>>1587448
yes, share model

My first PETG print, what caused this? I'm not bothered by the stringing it's the ridges where the 6 holes are that I don't like. I printed it this way up and the outside of the print came out fine.

>>1587736
lmao

>>1587996
Looks like bad interlayer adhesion, possibly some warping. Are you printing hot enough?

>>1587580
A circle is just a type of ellipse. if your curve is elliptical then use your gauge to measure the radius in two different directions, along the longest length and along the shortest length.
>>1587999
240 degrees celsius

>>1587999
And the heat bed is 90˚C

>>1588003
Turn down the bed and print slower

Does anybody have any tips for bed leveling on an Ender 3?
I'm leveling with the bed heated at the temp my print will be at, does the nozzle need to be heated too?

Also do you reckon it's worth upgrading the springs under the bed on the Ender 3? They seem a bit weak to me, and the slightest touch feels like it fucks up the leveling

Is there a way I can into resin printers without getting cancer/holes in my brain? The only place I can house the printer is in my bedroom, and I hear the fumes will cause you to have brain damage and cancer if you breathe it in for too long. Do I have to build an airtight cabinet with an exhaust fan going outside or something?

>>1588118
>Do I have to build an airtight cabinet with an exhaust fan going outside or something?
You should be doing this with all printers to be honest.

>>1588104
Google said it was overextending so I dropped the extrusion multiplier to 0.975. I'll see how that goes, if it doesn't work then I'll try your idea.

>>1588104
*overextruding

>>1588115
yes
yes

>>1588145
Gotcha. I haven't been heating the nozzle because plastic starts to blob out and I thought that would make it harder to level.

Thanks anon, I'll get some new springs right now.

>>1588148
manually shove some plastic out of the nozzle and retract it before leveling
I don't know if other slicing programs does this but cura wipes the nozzle on the outer rim of the build plate before starting and thats when I shove the plastic back until it starts coming out the nozzle

>>1588145
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-3D-Printer-Parts-Spring-For-Heated-bed-MK3-CR-10-hotbed-Imported-Length-25mm-OD/32951835638.html

Y/N?

>>1588157
have you switched to a better glass top yet? I got an 8$ 4-piece set of sqaure mirrors at ikea - they are way better than the glass bed that came with it. I just spray it with aquanet hair spray and ive never had detachment problems since.

>>1588115
Heat both bed and nozzle for levelling. BUT watch out thst no filament oozes out of the nozzle.
I only heat the nozzle slightly below the filament melting point.

>worth upgrading the springs
mine are tight enough but a lot of people seem to complain with theirs.
You can also pull the springs and put them back in to make them stronger.

>>1588148
>>1588157

>>1588115
I don't understand how people have so much trouble with this. Ideally you level with both bed and nozzle heated, but I get by just fine with maybe one levelling a week with both bed and nozzle cold. Print slowly and with a .2mm first layer and I'm sure you'll get good adhesion without much hassle too.

>>1587448
You're missing the pins the hold the rollers on.

>>1588192
Because if you have an Ender 3 you won the quality control lottery and like a real lottery, the odds of winning aren't very high. Chinkshit gonna chinkshit.

>>1588215
I have an Anet A8 (A lower quality Ender from a few years ago) and an Ender 3. Both print quite easily as long as the first layer is slow.

>>1588115
ive compressed the springs as much as possible, then i realized the carriage was warped out of the box.
Shimmed 3 screws with washers and it was somewhat level.
Adjusted z stop down, until the nozzle had 1-2 mm off the bed on all spots

Then i adjusted with the screws until i had a nice first layer.
Dial indicator shows +-0.01mm at most, inner part is dead on flat and this comes from the cheap rolled aluminum bed

Recommendations on good stores in Canada (Ontario, pref)?
Thinking of getting an Ender 3.

A friend asked me to print these exotic fruits. I thought id just share it.

Just a reminder to not put your PLA failed prints or remaining filament in the recycling. If you want to recycle your partial spools make sure to empty all of the filament off of them before putting them in your recycling. Check with your local waste management company to make sure, but most will not accept PLA for recycling. So it should go in regular trash.

Or burn it. For fun.

>>1588249
Recycled plastic gets burned anyway.

>>1588249
p sure they would just throw away anything without the recycle logo and number on it anyway

>>1588245
look tasty

>>1588252
Depends on the facility. In most cases it gets bulk shredded and then buoyancy/density sorted.

PLA contaminates the PET recycling process because it has a nearly identical specific gravity once shredded.
>>1588253
The symbol allows for presorting before shredding.

>>1588249
PLA is biodegradable. Most of it is literally made from corn.

>>1588263
>>1588253
I don't know about the rest of the world, but here in Sweden it gets presorted by the symbols, and then the bulk shredding thing, eventually becoming plastic pellets sold to various low-quality manufacturers. The stuff that can't be presorted is burnt in municipal heating stations, producing hot water for winter and hot water heating.

Ender 3 Pro worth the extra money over the normal Ender 3?

>>1588290
It's on sale rn for only $30 more

>>1588245
3D prints arent "food"safe, make sure they cast one out of a more "consumable" material before enjoying

>>1588115
The best kind of leveling you can do without firmware upgrades is while it's printing. Start a print, watch as it prints the outline of the first layer and make adjustments so that everything sticks evenly. Pause the print so that the head goes back to home (it doesn't when you stop the print on the standard firmware), peel off what it just printed, stop the print and restart it. Repeat process if it's still fucked.

It's how I did this >>1587504
Also the bigger your layer heights the shittier the stick will be.

>>1588233
They're online only.

>>1588233
Banggood.com have the lowest price here in Europe 170 + 18 usd shipping, idk about the customer support

>>1588233
Banggood.com has the lowest price here in Europe 170 + 18 usd shipping, idk about the customer support

>>1588444
Ender 3 Pro is $199 + 2.99 shipping from the US warehouse at the moment.

>>1588245
is that dragonfruit?

Is the anycubic i3-S worth the extra $60 or so ove the regular i3?
The only real difference I can see is the spool holder and supposedly the regular cant print TPU

>>1586622
>How did you attach it?
Duct-taped it between the legs

Has anyone here messed with heat-set or press-fit inserts? I see a bunch on Amazon but they look like they'd pull out without much force since they're just straight knurled (?) instead of diamond knurled. I'm looking for something around an M3.

>>1588658
can you insert it from the bottom?

>>1588665
No, it'll be in a pretty thick surface.

>>1585123
My chinashit printer with a bowden e3d lite6 setup keeps making mushrooms in the throat of the heatblock halfway through the print. I've nailed it down to be caused around the time of movements with lots of retraction, but why? Is the hotend too hot and making it shroom up when it pulls out, or is it too much retraction?

Retraction is 5mm @40mm/s, bowden tube is average length prusa i3 clone height, temp is 210.

Fucking clogs my shit up like no other

>>1588667
>>1588658
I saw a guy on youtube fitting them in by pushing them down with a cheap soldering iron tip.

I imagine the heat helps them set through the plastic, then it'll cool around the ridges and it can't easily pull out, even if they aren't diamond patterned.

>>1587996
I've noticed PETG does this on top layers, as the first few just droop too much. Enough cooling and top layeyrs solved it for me.

>>1588658
I recommend the ones from McMaster. I'm not sure I could pull them out of petg parts with out a long bolt and lots of lateral force.

attention Ender 3 ricers
whats your opinion on this.

The extruder bracket on mine is not 90° bend but like 95. additionall to this, when installing the bracket i have to pull the spindle a good centimeter away from the gantry, to reach the nut (no spacer mounted).

This results in a hard moving z axis, it does workbut i want to get the most out of this printer while not throwing money at.
Ive seen a vydia of someone bending the bracket back to fix both isssues, anyone done that so far?

Also, has anyone converted the printbed to 3 leveling screws?

Anyone using silicone molded stepper dampers instead if those chineese ones?

How did you mount the print surface on the warped heatbed to get it flat?kapton spacers?
(A flat heatbed 6-8mm thick is doable for 40€ but likely to much weight for this kinematic)

>>1587687
>>1587736
>>1587754
ah, the standard issue rock or something

>>1588658
Get the ones from McMaster, the ones pictured have shit tolerances. The goods ones are like 20cents a piece but worth it. Be aware of the temperature you set them in at and also the wall thickness.

>>1588739
Depends on the time you have vs the budget you have. I personally wouldn't invest too much time overall in the thing.

>How did you mount the print surface on the warped heatbed to get it flat?kapton spacers?

I found that the warping of the aluminum plate comes mainly from the spring tensioners. I unmounted it and wanted to flatten it but found that is was quite flat on it's own.

Ultimately I'm working with 0.3mm initial layer height to compensate the warping better. If I need a perfectly flat bed for some special prints I switch to my creality glass bed which is flat.
It's not even that much of a problem though

>>1588658

Is there any benefit to these? Why not just use self-tapping screws instead?

>>1588689
Yes I did more research and apparently the phenomenon is called "pillowing" and it's due to not enough top layers or too little infill.

>>1588788
>warping of the aluminum plate comes mainly from the spring tensioners.
Ok, will defintly check that. if the bed is flat i will try out silicon spacers, their 1€ each. If its not, i try making it flat

The budget thing is this. I dont believe throwing money at the thing will result in good prints.
Core components like the rails, board, extruder and cold end will not be swapped. No Auto level. Maybe a mapa hotend if petg makes my teflon liner smell funny and replacement fans.
Knowhow plays a way bigger role, so im willing to follow a proven 20 step guide how to tune firmware and slicer, to get the best achievable for each filament brand i use. Created by guys who know what their talkinging about.
Basically 3d printer bootcamp.

But this all starts by sorting out every small mechanical problem before you even start.
I semi accurate assembled my printer and got decent result by a few blind slicer tweaks, way better than my ctc ever did.
But this all depends on luck, and i dont want to print my technical parts 10 times due to out of tollerance.

>>1588222
>>1588223
I don't understand these warped bed coplaints. Are your beds really that much off? My the aluminium bed on my printer isnt level and i print on a thin fr4 epoxy sheet which is clamped down with paper clips and warps like crazy when heated and I only ever have adhesion problems with super thin parts not supported by a raft.

>>1588799
if you are taking apart the thing regularly that will break up the plastic over time.

BTW, have any of you guys tried the new Glock receiver model yet?

>>1588834
>printing guns

>>1588851
The slide rides on metal rails and the barrel locks directly into the slide. The frame really doesn't deal with all that much force.
Same kind of deal with AR lowers.
Hell, here's an AR-10 in REAL FUCKIN' NATO being test fired.

>>1588834
.stl?

>>1588970
https://mega.nz/#!zqhERQgA!sO6-PRp1oAOtPBpHKvMWjIJAETcFAnrRNfXtaRiDOPE
Here's the trailer for it:
https://mega.nz/#!2mZmkIZA!NxSUFdWAm5M4SAgzCLWSmW5wDKfss-AZ6LTRjok5k8I

>>1588851
>not printing guns

>>1588972
>>1588834
anybody who also has the stl of all the other parts of the gun?

>>1588990
The other components are over-the-counter in Canada and the USA, at least. I think it's the barrels that are regulated in Europe, though.
I'm thinking of putting a .22 LR conversion kit on it.

>>1588145
Thanks, now I'm hungry for some mac and cheese.
>>1588249
*/out/ sheds a tear*
>>1588575
Kek

In case you faggots are out of chilli:
Spring loaded spice shaker I designed

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3549988

>>1588658

No problems here.

>>1588811
>willing to follow a proven 20 step guide how to tune firmware and slicer, to get the best achievable for each filament brand i use
I like your motivation but watch out for too much snake oil wank tutorials.
The community is full of turbo autists who want to force their incredible moonlight shlong printing routine.
There are litteraly communities where you have to print like 30 testcubes as the elder coven is oral wanking their "expertise" while disagreeing with each other.
This shit is hillarious.

I got pretty far with a properly set up Ender and pretty basic and sane settings.
Just stick to the manufacturers recommend temps and don't mess with slicer settings you don't understand what they're doing.

>>1588273

It's not biodegradable, it's just "degradable". It's not going to degrade if you just leave it out, but it will if you subject it under specific conditions.

>>1588811
>I dont believe throwing money at the thing will result in good prints.
A glass bed and uxcell springs will save you a lot of time, though. The first bypasses the warped bed plate and the second keeps your bed leveled longer. Vibration dampers are great too, if just for the reduction in noise.

>>1589118
>Vibration dampers are great too, if just for the reduction in noise.
There's a fine line between "great for noise reduction" and "introduces ringing due to over dampening". The printable ones all tend to have a harmonic frequency that a printer can hit at certain speeds and gets worse as the print head goes up and shifts the CoG. I found this out the hard way. If you have a roll of TPU this would be a non issue but the PLA ones are just terrible.

There are so many variables that affect printing it's overwhelming. What makes it maddening is the time it takes. And it's all interrelated so it's like playing with jenga.
Fuck, I'm frustrated.
How long did it take all of you to get to the point where you felt comfortable and not in over your head?

>>1589141
Yeah, I meant the metal/rubber ones you can buy. IIRC it actually reduced some of the ringing on the test cubes I did.

>>1589078
It is going to degrade, it just isn't going to magically disappear or whatever people expect from "biodegradeable". To make it disappear like that you either need a few centuries or a special compost heap.
What will happen over a few months/years however is that it will turn brittle. A PLA print that seemed sturdy when first made can often be crumpled with litle effort once it's been laying around for a year or two. Case in point that guy who made an Octopi case that broke when he accidentally brushed into it with his hand.

>>1589162
>How long did it take all of you to get to the point where you felt comfortable and not in over your head?
A few months. But I did buy printers that come with slicer profiles so I wasn't really starting from scratch.

Is the ender 3X able to print out of the box, or does it still need a lot of parts upgrades before it's able to print decently?

>>1589169
I'd have slit my wrists if I had to start from scratch. Thank god they have a few basic profiles.

>>1589018
ist der Kram denn lebensmittelecht?

>>1589183
>lebensmittelecht
Nein, technically speaking.

>>1589173
It prints just fine out of the box, most "upgrades" are snake oil.
What I've added to mine are:
OctoPi (A sort of server running off of raspberry pi, lets me remotely monitor the print)
3DTouch (A Chinese BLTouch clone, automatic bed levelling is a nice luxury but not strictly necessary)
Printed filament guide (To prevent the filament from rubbing against the sides of the extruder hole. Probably not really necessary, but comforting to have)
Tool holder (A snap-on tool holder to hold pliers and a scraper on the side of the power supply, also not necessary)

>>1589162
You think printers are bad, try your hand at mills where you now have to deal with tool deflection, G0'ing around clamps and shit. Then, if you fuck up, you may end up sending a fixture flying through the side of a 100k+ machine at mach 3.

>>1589162
Took me 6 months or so when a 2 month frustration fueled hiatus to get everything on my CR-10 to near perfect. I also bought it in the first 6-8 months it was out though. By now theres hundreds of proven profiles to pick and improve from.

>>1589242
Why aren’t you modeling your fixturing in the CAM software?

>>1589038
Why would you do that when a nut would fit in there perfectly?

>>1589242
1) wouldn't you at least be trained on the machine first?
And
2) why wouldn't there be protective measures in place to prevent damage/injury?

>>1589248
Where do you get your profiles from?

What does /3DPG/ use for testing their settings?
I'm looking for something that's fast to print and tests only one or maybe up to a few settings each. My hope is to be able to print a benchmark and then adjust something to see what happens and so on.
tl;dr what's your go-to for test prints that preferably have a fast turnaround?

>>1589297
Benchy, duh.

>>1589285
Like I said, I made my own profile over a number of months, hundreds of tests. As of right now though there are a few dozen if not hundreds of profiles on the CR-10 facebook group. I know theres a similar group for Prusa machines, and Ender 3 printers.

>>1589297
The Benchy boat, though at this point a bit overdone, is a good test. It was designed to test various difficulties you may run into such as fine details, thin walls, text, and overhangs. That being said use whatever the hell you want really that you think may do the same. Theres a nice little dragon thing on Thingiverse that can test supports on top of a few other things. As of recently Ive been testing new filaments on those fancy boats Vandragon_De on Thingiverse designed. They take a decent time longer than a benchy but they have alot more detail and I can give them to my nephew as bath toys.

I've read before of some people printing TPU on Creality printers without modifications. Supposedly it's done with 95A TPU.

Anyone have any experience?

>>1589421
I'm printing TPU perfectly fine on an unmodded Ender 3, pic related.
I using "K Camel Flexible" filament from aliexpress. No idea about it's hardness.

The most important thing is to print slowly and I mean fucking slow. Start with 15mm/s. TPU needs more time to liquify in the nozzle.
Besides that I'm using PLA settings on the manufacturer recommend printing temp.

Be careful with retracts, try without first.

>>1589428
Gearbest says its 95a so that answers my question, thanks!

>>1589428
Do you change first layer height/width and extrusion multiplier like most videos recommend for TPU?

>>1589434
I printed first layer 0.2 mm and the other layers 0.15 mm.
And yes, I set the extrusion rate to 120% but idk how important that really is. I would start at like 105% and go up if underextrusion occurs.
For me speed was the reason it didn't work first tries.

>>1589391
>trying to give your nephew cancer
10/10 uncle

>>1589265

I couldn't NOT use the big box of inserts I just got in the mail.

How long should I leave pla opened on the printer? I dont print a lot and the spool sits there most of the time.

>>1589491
depends on your humidity

>>1589492
It's like 70% outside during the summer

>>1589252
>Why aren’t you modeling your fixturing in the CAM software?
That's a good practice, but not everyone is that thorough.
>>1589285
Really depends. It's not that uncommon to work, at least sometimes, on machines that are older than you are. Some controllers hold your hand more than others, but oftentimes the people programming the machines aren't the same people operating the machines.
If you're working on really fucking large projects that take hundreds of hours of machining, you won't even get to do a dry-run first.
There's a bit of a pucker factor, as you can imagine.

>ender 3 arrived early
>can't pick up filament probably until the weekend
should i just wait to put it together?

>>1589554
Why? Assemble it and print with the included sample plastic. It's a white PLA included in one of the bags of stuff like bolts and bowden couplings. Should be enough of it for a few calibration cubes until you can buy a real spool.

>>1589493
My plastic got nasty within weeks. Kept having all these issues and then I thought to try the new spool, problem solved. And this was in the dry winter air although I did run a humidifier occasionally.

>>1589568
Oh no. I suppose putting it in a bag is enough

>>1589575
or use an old paint bucket
Those things have airtight lids

Is a slightly increased ease of changing your hothend really worth $150?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIWaVJwuihY

>>1589605
no

A few threads back I tried to print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359055
but looking at the model someone took a decent model and subdivided it without paying attention so it's lost all detail and generally looks like shit. I found
https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/papi-17b1ee8461f74b3c85136a0ba251bc71
but no download link. Is there a way to get this off the browser without questionable software?

>>1589605
>$150

>>1588118
You definitely don't want one in your bedroom. If that's your only option, stop trying to kid yourself and just give up. Don't risk your health over a printer.

>>1589446
Is it legal in your country to be this stupid?

>>1589640
>so it's lost all detail and generally looks like shit
Anon, that sketchfab model still looks like shit. Really low fucken' poly model. Don't get your hopes up; garbage in is garbage out.

>>1589663
I disagree. The sketchfab design (pic related) is low poly - especially on the wings - but shows a lot of effort in the design. The thingiverse one has been subdivided to hell, giving it a nice smooth appearance but destroying any potential detail, ruining the hair, her thumbs, her talons and the tips of her wings. I don't even know what it looked like before it got ruined since the original is nowhere to be found.
I can't un-subdivide the thingiverse model. I can selectively subdivide the sketchfab one's rough spots while preserving the appropriate hard edges and not touching the face. In the end, I just think the sketchfab model has more potential.

For reference, here's the sketchfab without textures.

>>1589554
>>1589566
felt like a brainlet trying to put together the assemblies without watching a video but i got things started without any other issue. i've started a list of mods to print for this but is there anything that i should look out for?

>>1589640
There you go senpai : https://files.catbox.moe/tisknh.zip
I trust you can make stl from an obj. Also shes non-manifold as fuck

>>1589722
Interesting...
F A M is filtered to senpai
but why

>>1589718
Most mods are useless.

>>1589731
>said the brainlet

>>1589722
Much obliged anon. I should be able to handle the cleanup from there. You're absolutely right, she's going to need some work done.

>>1589718
It's been said a dozen times that most mods are useless, and the anons that say that aren't lying. But there are a few that are important, almost essential.
>Fan cover
Your Ender 3 has an exposed mainboard. Bits of plastic can fall onto it through the fan opening. Cover this.
>Extruder filament guide
Filament can and will wear the plastic extruder assembly, destroying it. A filament guide prevents this.
That's it. Those are the only mods I would say are necessary meaning that not having them can lead to the printer breaking in some way.

>>1589737
You guys are confusing "useless" with what does not necessarily effect print quality. Alot of mods improve ease of use or fix an over site in the original design of the printer.

>>1589737
Adding my voice to the "people who want to mod their printers are mostly morons" chorus. I would additionally recommend an extruder mod, as bits of stringly plastic get sucked in by the fan and build up like a spider web inside over time.

>>1589737
>>1589738
Right you are anon. I'll go into some that aren't essential, but I believe are useful.
>PSU support
Vibration is the enemy of prints. The PSU in its stock form is just floating weight suspended on the frame eager to oscillate and ruin print quality. But if you print a support that goes under it and fastens it to the frame below the PSU becomes a support, helping fight vibration instead of making it worse.
>Spool Holder
If you have room, a separate spool holder will also take weight off the top of the printer. This may or may not accomplish anything. I'm not sure on the physics here but the stock setup kind of puts the moving mass at the CoG, which may actually help fight vibration. Try it anyway since most of them don't need a lot of filament.
>PTFE cable clips
Gets rid of the zip ties holding your wiring to your PTFE tube. Makes it easy to work with and doesn't look half bad. I hate zip ties. One insulted my mother once.
>Cable management
Ignore the gimmicky cable chain unless you want to practice making dozens of small prints, but some simple loops that slide into the frame to hold wires in place does wonders to keep the cords tidy.
>Belt tensioner
I'm iffy on this. I have one. I use it. I like it. But I don't know if I trust it. There's so much tension on those belts I feel like the PLA is going to snap one print so I keep the little aluminum bits nearby just in case. Regardless, I was able to properly tension my belts using one. I would have a lot more confidence in one if I printed it out of PETG or ABS.
>Extruder handle
Turn off motors, twist handle, filament goes in or out. Invaluable for changing rolls of filament and nozzles.
That's about it. I've printed a lot of mods for my printer since I'm a pleb but a great many of them go into the trash bin of failure.

>>1589297
Hollow cube for new filament color/brand (not type). It helps tune temps in as little as two prints, and uses barely any filament. Tests bridging, z scar, stringing and layer adhesion (how much effort it takes to pull cube apart), everything you need to tune temps.

My first attempt to fix the bad geometry on the feathers. Errrrrrr.

>>1589751
Have you tried meshmixer, solidify command?

>>1589605

You can buy two original E3Ds for that much... Or a billion non-originals, one for every nozzle you have.

>>1589605
...How often do people change their hotends, and why? This seems like a solution to a problem nobody has.

>>1589879
I'm sure there's some application but I couldn't tell you what it is. Ive had my CR-10 for a little over 3 years and Ive only ever changed the nozzle, once...

>>1589879
this is done when you need to change hole size on the nozzle or material in the nozzle, such as teflon tube and all metal
but for that kinds of money it would be easier to just buy a second printer instead and you get the same advantage plus can now print two things at the same time

>>1589847
Meshmixer is Windows / Mac only. So no. I've been doing it manually.
>extract copy of faces
>scale 99.5%
>invert normals
>extract faces again
>bridge the two into a single mesh
>remove the original
That's the feathered wings. For the torso and limbs I can simply connect the open vertices and do a little Wings3D (what I'm using to model it) dickery to make it work. For the hair I have to extract the faces into a mesh the software recognizes as valid, tessellate the part that was not seen as geometry before and then round & smooth this new geometry out to look like the back of hair.
It's easier than it sounds. Just time consuming.

>>1589879
>How often do people change their hotends, and why?
I do pretty often. Most of my prints are done with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.2-0.3mm layer heights (sometimes bigger for big prints), and once in a while I need the resolution of a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.1mm layer height.

>>1589962
>too poo to buy multiple printers
gross

>>1589964
>too poor
I operate 9 UM2's, nozzle changes happen daily.

>>1589967
unless you have enough printers to not have a need for any nozzle changes then you are still objectively poor

>>1589977
So what if a nozzle clogs? You still need to change it, even if you have plenty of machines.

>>1589978
>So what if a nozzle clogs?
simply replace the printer

>>1589879
>...How often do people change their hotends, and why?
Every 6 months to maintain print quality. I use a blowtorch to clean residual out of my spare nozzles.

>>1589962
are you changing your nozzle or your whole hotend?

>>1589983
Have you ever had quality issues after torching a nozzle? A blowtorch would be enough to anneal the brass, after that a pair of pliers could easily deform the entire thing..

>>1589694
Anon, that's just smooth shading. The actual geometry is low poly. Go to the regular textured view and check the silhouette of her shoulder.

>>1590115
Nope, though I am only using nickel-plated nozzles. I put the nozzle in a vice upside-down with the vice holding the flats on the sides of it.

I use a butane or propane torch to burn the residual filament out until the nozzle opening is clear. Clearing ABS takes a little bit more time to clear out, but in that instance a soak in acetone after it cools off can clear out any remainder.

>>1589879
Hot end or nozzle? The hot end itself I'm only just replacing now because I want to convert to direct drive (titan aero). The nozzle rarely; in fact I usually only change it if it's really gunked up or blocked. Nozzles are so cheap I just bin them and put a new one on when I start having problems with them.

>>1590083
Depending on the failure mode, sometimes the whole hotend. Thankfully an E3D V6/Volcano is relatively easy to disassemble, even if it's one huge PETG blob.

I know it's been asked before, but how much is /3dpg/ willing to pay for files? And have any of you backed any file only kickstarters?

>>1590153
I wont pay for any files because there are hundreds of amazing files for free and trying to charge for equal or lesser quality is greedy bullshit.

Completed prints on the other hand Ive charged for in the past.

>>1590135
Anon I've been touching up the mesh since another anon dropped the OBJ files. I know it's low poly. I also don't care. I'm going to print a harpy. With that said, he legs look like utter shit so I'm going to try rebuilding them.

Fuck PETG. Damn shit keeps grabbing the fucking nozzle.

>>1590198
Use hairspray on a glass buildplate, no more adhesion issues.

>Feathers on wings given volume
>hair geometry improved
>shorts and top have depth
>massive mesh cleanup
>completely new legs
Todo
>better fix feathers to arms
>base
>split model into easier to print parts
>snap joints?
Will upload new mesh when it's finished. Probably take a few days.

>>1590236
I don't have a problem with build plate adhesion. It's the entire print that's grabbing the nozzle. What's strange is that it's still happening (albeit less) even with Z hop on. I think the walls are getting caught on it as it passes them by. Currently printing 45mm/s 235/75.

>>1587253
I was torn between Form2 and Moai some months earlier, but I never got either due to loss of all my free time.

I really want to get a SLA printer for flexible manufacturing of prototypes with internal structures that require very good finish.

Right now what we're doing is machining chutes from hardened tool steels and using fancy endmills for mirror finishing them. and then just welding or threading two halves together, but sometimes there needs to be twists inside to turn the parts traveling trough them in a certain way.

These high accuracy printers could be the answer for "rapid" prototyping, but I know next to nothing about them.

>>1590263
PETG is super clingy. What's happening is that as it's extruding, a tiny bit of the plastic rubs against the edge of the nozzle hole and curls back on itself, ending up as a deposit on the side of the nozzle. There's a special anti-peptide coating you can spray on that should prevent this, and some fancy nozzles come with that stuff already applied, but I've never personally tried them. My PETG prints come out in good enough quality, it's just that every now and then a blob of polymerized plastic drops into the infill. Only really a problem if you're using transparent filament.

>>1590263
>>1590304
>special anti-peptide coating
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/Nozzle_Materials
The "polyphobic nano spray" used on Nozzle X and plated copper is probably one of those sprays. Again, I can't really say that it actually works, it might just be salesman talk to sell overpriced nozzles.

>>1589737
>>1589744
thanks for the advice, picked up filament today and have started the process of pimping out my ender with useful to semi-useful upgrades. filament holder is currently clamped to the table while a proper one prints

>>1590153
It depends on the model. So far I've bought nothing outside of Shapeways prints because I feel like I can model the same thing myself, maybe even better. I'd be open to dropping $1 occasionally on complex and tested figure add-ons, probably more for figure kits, but this is still such a niche hobby that those are only on Shapeways right now.

>>1590156
You don't 3D model at all, do you?

>>1590153
I paid 8usd for one of these. >>1588245 The other one i ripped off a site.

>>1590156
>there are hundreds of amazing files for free
What if there is no free files?


Anyways if you guys have something in mind from sketchfab thats not available for download just yell out loud and i might be able to help you out.

>>1590439
I design my own parts for hobby shit ,broken crap around the house, and have been commissioned by a few friends/friends of friends for car/motorcycle parts. I also have design I hope to get the printed product into some stores.

Like it or not your cute little table top figurines are all free somewhere. The ones that people would actually pay for the file for are likely copyrighted.

>>1590446
Would depend on what it is but probably not. Like I told the last anon those warhammer mini figures are all free and probably better somewhere or another. I've only ever considered buying a design from printed scenery and theres still someone on thingiverse that has similar quality designs, albeit fewer of them.

I want to go into a small business (if you can call it that) of selling custom-sized bonsai containers. This looks like pretty much the perfect printer for my needs in terms of build volume; is there anything I should be wary of or other recommendations for oblong printers out there? Does anyone have folgertech's stuff? I've made some pots on my maker select v2, and they've turned out OK so I'm considering going bigger next

https://folgertech.com/collections/3d-printer-full-kits/products/folger-tech-ft-6-3d-printer-kit?variant=15400117272662

Alright you meme-loving fucks, which one of you is going to be the first to post a completed Form 3L print that you did?

I'm trying to convert an STL into a spline body in Fusion and I'm getting strange results (conversion results in too many bodies which are not connected). Any idea what I'm doing wrong here? The model is initially from Fusion itself, but I want to modify some edges which isn't possible with just the parametric modeling, so I am trying to convert it into a spline body and edit it from there.

>>1590257
>Todo
>find a model of Mia instead of Papi

fixed it for you

>>1586248
The printed cable chains are shit. I've modded my cr10 for an under bed cable chain using an off the shelf chain. Works really well and reduced the overall foot print of the printer.

>>1590308
Anoyingly I'm trying to print PETG so that I can print a mount for an e3d titan aero.

>>1590620
I'll take "meshes that don't currently exist" for 400, Alex. I looked. Miia's not available, which is a shame because she'd be a much easier print.

>>1590549
CAD software isn't for editing meshes.

>>1590494
Never seen that printer before. Price seems to be a little too good to be true but search for experiences online.
For a business you want multiple printers.
Get some CR10s or better on top.
If your business is serious you should also look at some higher end printers like lulzbot.

Any idea why bumps seem to appear at the button of my prints? (pic related). Here are my settings:
CR-10S
Nozzle: 185 C
Heated Bed: 50 C
(It’s a glass bed that I put painter’s tape over)
Layer height: 0.2mm

If you need more info, just ask. Any tips at all would help

>>1590799
fuck how do I delete a post my picture is sideways

Any idea why bumps seem to appear at the button of my prints? (pic related). Here are my settings:
CR-10S
Nozzle: 185 C
Heated Bed: 50 C
(It’s a glass bed that I put painter’s tape over)
Layer height: 0.2mm

If you need more info, just ask. Any tips at all would help

Any idea why bumps seem to appear at the button of my prints? (pic related). Here are my settings:
CR-10S
Nozzle: 185 C
Heated Bed: 50 C
(It’s a glass bed that I put painter’s tape over)
Layer height: 0.2mm

If you need more info, just ask. Any tips at all would help

>>1590804
That is also a shitload of stringing if I'm looking at that right.

>>1590804
fixed image, my bad

>>1590804
You sure you don't have the nozzle too close to the build plate?

>>1590821
I tried live leveling until it looked right (in between looking squished and looking like the gaps between lines were too far). It seems like if I put it any higher my prints fly off the bed plate

>>1590299
Get a Form 2 and use engineering resing.

>>1590934
That does sound enticing.
I think I'll request a sample part and chuck it in a shaker bowl with parts and see how long it takes to scratch to unusable state.

>>1590721
Thank you for the advice; I'm going to start with one that should be able to handle any print volume job, and then start modeling and testing different pot sizes, filaments, etc. I considered lulzbot but it's too small. Unfortunately what I need isn't height, but length. It seems like most larger printers expand cubically, whereas this one is the only one that doesn't get crazy expensive as build volume increases. I think I'm going to give it a shot.

I think the niche here is for larger custom-size containers, since you can buy a 5"x7" clay Chinese training pot for dirt cheap (probably because it's made out of dirt), while if you're doing a training pot for a larger specimen it's going to sit inside a custom-built box or otherwise rigged up container. I've made a few of them before and even PLA will hold up for multiple years outside which surprised me. (picture is a medium sized one I could do on the maker select v2)

>>1590993
>length. It seems like most larger printers expand cubically, whereas this one is the only one that doesn't get crazy expensive as build volume increases

Length as in it can be very long? You could DIY something like this and it wouldn't be terribly expensive

>>1591040
Hell, nothing stopping you from buying x metre long belts and aluminium extrusions and extending the y axis on an Ender 3, or threaded rod and extrusion for the z axis..

>>1591058
Is extending the axis on an extrusion printer as simple as just adding more extrusion, moving the motor/end stop, adding a longer belt, and extending the build area in your slicer?

>>1591060
You would need to flash a new firmware, all (?) printers have "software endstops" where they won't go beyond a defined max range, since that would, you know, not work.
But yeah, these machines really aren't all that complex. An extrusion printer is a robot arm with a glue gun.

I'm pretty sure using a belt would worsen the backlash in that direction, so that's a consideration.
An ACME rod with some anti-backlash nuts would be a good upgrade for such a project.

I recently got an Ender 3, and decided to start printing with AmazonBasics PETG instead of PLA. I've got good bed adhesion and my initial prints are coming out okay for being new to this, but plastic keeps building up on the nozzle as the print goes on, to where I need to pick it off when it gets pea-sized before it falls off onto the print. Is there a simple fix for this issue? I'm using Cura as my slicer.

>>1591075
Try lowering your bed slightly. But no, there isn't really much you can do about this. PETG is great, but it's also frustrating. >>1590304 >>1590308

>>1591080
Thanks, I lowered the bed a bit and might try cooking spray to see if that helps. Hairspray on the bed really helped the adhesion issues I was having.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1009253 Printing these things, but 25% taller. Tomorrow evening you shall see me either ascend into new levels of tallness, or tripping and falling all over the place.

>the only hardware store in my village starts selling filament
>live in the middle of nowhere, this could be quite convenient
>buy a spool of PLA and a spool of PETG
>both print perfectly, and cost a third as much as the filament I used to mail order
The spools are opaque and come with no holes or "100m remaining" marks or anything like that. Damn shame, is it really that expensive to use transparent spools instead of black ones? They don't even have those little holes along the edge to lock the filament when you change spools.

>>1591090
I mean, you could just put them on nice spools.

>>1590494
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_RvnqVHbnA
Considered one of these? If I was looking to start a 3D printing manufacturing firm I'd probably use something like this. With an octopi you could queue a whole day's worth of prints, and with that new webcam automatically cancel failed prints addon pi got I imagine you could just set an alarm and actually leave the printer unmonitored. If a print fails your phone chimes and lets you know to go fix it.

>>1591092
Okay, I built myself a filament spool transfer device out of a broom handle and a power drill, and this was a completely wasted effort. According to the meter marks, there is about 350m of filament on the spool, but going by weight it's only like 500g. Evidently whatever machine the manufacturer used spun the filament onto the spool much more tightly.

>>1591096
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0JZCo_hDow

>>1591107
Okay, then how are the spools put together?
If you can remove one opaque side from it and put a translucent one in its place...

>>1591110
Both are single piece injection moulds, so that's not an option.

This isn't really a problem, I'm just disappointed that my cheap filament comes on rubbish spools.

>>1590993
Nice finish, how'd you do it?

>>1591163
I used the "Textured" Rustoleum dark brown color, over a couple coats of white primer paint. There are other options available. It provided a very close approximation to the look of actual fired clay.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/textured/

Worked pretty well

>>1591165
I love that textured spray paint, gives prints a very statue like appearance.

>>1587687
careful I've heard some of those plastics will leave chemicals in the water that turns frogs gay.

>>1589724
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3549988
same reason T B H is desu. An Hiro is actually slightly based when he's not clueless or selling post content to ad companies.

New Thread: >>1591345

Does bigger bed temp = better first layer adhesion? I am running my mirror at 65C and sometimes it doesn't stick super good