/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>156571
Does the tub spin and agitate when running a load of clothes?

>>156577
yes it doesnt finish the cycle though

>>156571
If the thing is not clogged then the impeller may be broken. Can you hear it trying to pump?

if it tries it doesnt for very long, it stops right after it starts the rinse cycle

>>156571
While this does not help your specific problem, it may help you drain the washer if you've not already done so,

http://www.ehow.com/how_4898446_drain-washing-machine.html

Afterwards you can take it apart and check the motor and impeller as well and 100% of the lines.

You can also siphon water from the tub to the washer's drain pipe, fyi.

>>156585
i drained it im just not sure how to check if its the motor for the pump, or maybe something is wrong with the timer or idk what to do lol

Since it spins the motor and belt are okay. Since it won't drain it's either clogged or the impeller is broken. There's a rare chance it's a switch problem in the timer knob (the one that turns while when you set it).

You can try turning the knob so that it starts just after where it is stopping and not working. There's a slight chance that will trigger it IF there's no clogs and the impeller aren't broken. It still may not work if the switch is completely bad inside for whatever reason. Thus, it wouldn't even be trying to engage the motor again for pumping the water out.

>>156586
Depending on your level of skill, you could try bypassing the timer switch and directly activating the motor for pumping the water out. You can also unplug it and try to manually spin the motor to see if the impeller has a problem or not.

>>156591
Also, if you find that you can bypass the timer switch and it works then you'll need to either repair the timer switch, by a new one, or make your own bypass switch.

If the washer is old, check the wig-wag to make sure it's engaging correctly.

>>156594
On second thought, it may only be the wig-wag. It might be mechanical failure or the solenoid might not be working right.

>>156588
it drains when i pull the hose out (onto my floor) so i dont believe its clogged so how do i check if its broken impeller?
>>156591
lets say i dont have much experience with washers but if you explained more i might be able to...

>>156598
>>156594
can you explain that a little more for me i have never heard of any of that

bump for desperate help

This thread is why i love /diy/.

When you ask for help, people are happy to oblige.
Sorry i have nothing to contribute.

Hope you fix it bro.

>>156600
>>156602
Wig-wag,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wig_wag_%28washing_machines%29

There may be another similar device that performs the same function, but may look different on your model.

As far as helping you bypass the switch, I'm not much help. This is best done in person by someone that has the unit in their hands. The jist of it is you reroute power from a specific point in the washer to the motor.

The impeller is the thing that spins inside the pump housing. It should be located where you can clearly see it near the motor. Just reach around some way and turn it manually. It may be stuck. It can get stuff wound around the shaft like a lawnmower does with string and can't turn.

>>156619
>The jist of it is you reroute power from a specific point in the washer to the WIG-WAG or other similar device that engages the pump.

Oops, fixed and clarified.

>>156619
thanks a lot friend
so basically im going to be in the bowels of my
washer hoping something is stuck on my impeller and if that doesnt work locate the wigwag and look for problems... well here i go thanks again

>>156622
Pretty much yes. Just try not to break anything or touch he start capacitor (usually a black box on the motor) because it may have a charge left in it that can knock you on your ass. You can us a screwdriver to short it out to discharge it.

>>156625
thanks for the heads up on the capacitor haha

no way that machine has a wig wag on it.

Your machine is a direct drive whirlpool. Very common and very easy to repair.

Will your machine spin? or just fill and agitate?

When you take off the control panel you will see 2 brass colored clips that go from the top of the case to the back panel - pop these off and disconnect the 3 wire molex for the lid switch. This will allow the entire cabinet, front, top, and 2 sides to come away leaving the guts, the base, and the rear. This will ease access to the components.

From there you will see the drain pump connected to the end of the motor. It has 2 hoses going to it, and is held on by 2 spring clips.
Pop of the spring clips and gently pull the pump away.

Try to remove as much water from the inner tub as possible before you remove the hoses.

Even if you think you have removed it all there will be some residual in the pump and hoses so have a few towels handy to catch the run off.

Once you have the hoses off and the pump pulled away you can check for a couple of things.

Shine a light inside the pump to see if the impeller is broken up. (not to common, but can happen)

The other thing to check is the point where the motor shaft engages with the pump.
The motor is metal "D" shaped shaft and the pump is plastic. The plastic pump can split at that connection and not allow the motor to drive it properly.

Of course all this is dependent on the fact that you have dbl checked to more common problems.

Your machine turns the motor in one direction to drive the transmission and agititate. Once it hits the spin portion of the cycle it reverses the motor to drain and then engage the clutch to spin.

Since your complaint was not draining at all. I wonder if your lid switch may be faulty. Most whirlpool machines will fill and agitate with a bad switch but they will not drain or spin.

One way to test that is to go back to that 3 wire molex connector you disconnected earlier. Make a jumper wire to bridge (usually the 2 outer wires) together and trick the machine into thinking the lid switch is engaged.

Also on this machine since it is a direct drive there is no belt. This machine uses a drive coupling to mate the motor to the transmission.

This coupling is a point of common failure and is easy to replace.

Go back to the pump area where you removed the drain pump. You should now be able to see the motor itself.

It is held on by 2 more spring clips, however these also are screwed in to help hold it in place.
Remove the screws and the clips. Also be sure to unplug the molex from the side.

Now you can remove the motor and inspect the drive coupling.

There have been many variations over the years, but yours should be 2 composite plastic pieces with 3 prongs on each with a disc of rubber sandwiched between them. I'll include a pic to show you.

Commonly the prongs will shear off (as they are meant to as this is the main "give" point). So the motor will spin but there isnt enough of the coupling left to direct that energy into the transmission/drive assy.

sorry for the multiple posts in a row, but i hope this helps in some way.

:)

>>156645
>Most whirlpool machines will fill and agitate with a bad switch but they will not drain or spin.

Not OP, but I've never seen a washer that will agitate with a faulty lid switch (I've never owned a Whirlpool, fyi). They will fill up, but stop. I wonder why Whirlpool ones would be different in that regard.

>>156651
because it isnt considered a safety issue.

You are correct. Most other brands wont do this. The whirlpools will.

>>156660
>>156651
>>156650
>>156649
>>156645
>>156644
>>156642
>>156640
>>156638
thank you so much! i found an awesome youtube video series explaining what you said and i just bought the part i need, hopefully lol

>>156651
I have never owned a whirlpool, but my GE and both my past Kenmores have all happily agitated with the lid open. The kenmore would drain, but not spin/rinse with the lid open. The GE will neither drain nor spin with the lid open.

OP, does it spin? Or does it just stop forever once it reaches that point in the cycle?

Your 'friend' totally fucked you dude.

I work as a handyman and won't touch a washer or a dryer with a ten foot pole.

Even if you can figure out what the problem is, probably a pump in your case the part itself will run fifty to a hundred bucks. Plus wait time for shipping and postage.

For the pain in the ass factor you are better off just going on Craigslist and finding a cheapo unit. Just make sure they aren't a scamming sociopath like your 'friend'.

>>157339
well they did help me and with that advice i was able to trouble shhot and i found i had a broken latch thingy and it was $4 on ebay with expedited shipping so you are kinda wrong but thanks for trying?

>>157581
>>157581

Well thanks for wasting everyone's time then dickhead.

OP:
> hey /diy/, washer no work, what do?
/diy/:
>maybe it's the pump
>maybe it's the impeller
>maybe it's the wig-wag
>no that machine doesn't have a wig-wag
>maybe it's the lid switch
op:
>ok figured it out thanks guys
/diy/:
>keeps suggesting possibilities
>fuck you kid it'll never work again without a part worth more than the machine
op:
>Uh, we already figured it out, it was the lid switch and it cost $4
/diy/
>Fuck you for wasting my time then

Stay classy, /diy/, stay classy.

>>157730
i dont even....

>>157730
For fuck's sake stop being such a cunt.

>>157730
No John, you are the dickheads.

And John was the dickhead.

>>157581
That's awesome, OP. Glad to see you got it fixed.

>>157339
>I work as a handyman and won't touch a washer or a dryer with a ten foot pole.

You're mot much if a handyman then.

hey guys, while this washer dryer thread is open i figured i'd go take a photo and post my issue.
we moved into a place recently and the people before us left the washer and dryer. we were told they work great (and the washer does) but... i can't plug in the dryer to find out if it works or not.
as you can see this is the plug and this is the only outlet around the dryer... so...
i know the dryer's plug can be changed pretty easy. but does anyone know exactly what it is i need? is there some magical adapter?

>>158296
Search the internet and either:
Buy a new three prong cable. These usually are made long enough so you just open up the dryer and replace the whole cable.

Or buy an adapter. Hook the adapter on. Watch that bad-mofo dryer start to dry.

>>158296
You have to replace the power cord with one that has the plug you need.
It is quite easy; just a couple screws where the cord connects to the dryer itself and you're done.
You have to usually remove a plate to get to the wire connection.

Pic Generally Related- YMMV

>>158305
>>158307
yes but all the 3 prongers look like this with an angle...
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=3+prong+dryer+cord&selectedCatgry
=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
thats the home depot seach i did... what am i doin' wrong

>>157339
You must be a really lazy, shitty handyman, then. I'm not a "handyman" for anyone but myself, never fixed a dryer in my life, pulled it apart, figured out what parts were needed, bought them, reassembled it, saved myself a couple hundred bucks and the hassle of finding another used working dryer.

>>158309
I was thinking the same thing when I saw your pic.
I would look around again for another plug.
Dryer outlets are different; probably because they pull so much power and usually are on their own fuse.

I might be slightly worried that this is the work of an amateur. Maybe a fire hazard? Might not work as dryers pull 220, hence the special outlet.

You might have to change the outlet itself. Dunno if adapter exist.

>>158316
i was just looking into changing the outlet (turns out that'd be the cheaper thing to do anyway)
another fellow over on /b said it's a weilder outlet.. i looked it up and it sure enough is...
i think changing the outlet is the smart and safer thing to do as whoever install such an outlet didn't have a clue

>>158318
Welder outlets put out 220, so this probably was originally for the dryer. Should be easy to replace outlet with a dryer one.

Good luck and don't forget to turn off the power first!

>>158321
yes thank you.
what SHOULD a dryer be running amp wise i mean.
when i look in the breaker box what SHOULD be there?
i wanna make sure that i don't need to also replace a breaker/fuse first

>>158324

It depends on the dryer. Probably says so on the dryer somewhere.

AMPS=WATTS/VOLTS

>>158328
i just went and looked. it says 30amp
it does have a 30 amp on that outlet. so thats good atleast
thanks everyone!

>>158309
You're not doing anything wrong, all 110 outlets and plugs are the same, but some assclown thought it would be funny if there were 10 different kinds of 220 plugs. Look at more stores until you find it or change the outlet to match your cord. The 4 prong one has both a nuetral and ground, but they are basically the same, and are one on the 3 prong.

Yeah if the cord on your dryer is 4 prong, then best thing in this case would be to change out the outlet to a standard 4 prong dryer receptacle.

Depending on codes where you live these are becoming more and more the norm and even required in new builds.

>>157339
>Your 'friend' totally fucked you dude.
>I work as a handyman and won't touch a washer >or a dryer with a ten foot pole.
>Even if you can figure out what the problem is, >probably a pump in your case the part itself will >run fifty to a hundred bucks. Plus wait time for >shipping and postage.
>For the pain in the ass factor you are better off >just going on Craigslist and finding a cheapo >unit. Just make sure they aren't a scamming >sociopath like your 'friend'.

Wow, just wow....

What an asshole you are. I wonder what bad experiences you have had to call someone a sociopath just for giving their old machine to a friend.

You sir are someone I wouldnt let touch anything of mine with a 10 foot pole.

Grow up and realize just because you are not smart enough to figure out something doesnt mean most of the rest of us cant either.

>>157730
>Well thanks for wasting everyone's time then dickhead.

People frequent these boards to learn something.
The OP learned and fixed his problem.
I am sure others learned from the info that was posted as well.

We dont need attitudes like yours on /diy/

I have no patience for elitist attitudes of know nothing assholes like yourself who only leech and contribute nothing to these boards.

Please slink back to /b/ or wherever you came from.

>>158296
>>158309
The plug on your wall appears to be an obsolete NEMA 6-50 outlet. It's a 50a 208-240v plug which provides Hot, Hot, and ground - no neutral. The "common" 3-prong drier plug you link is NEMA 10-30, which 30a 208-240v plug that provides Hot, Hot, and neutral - no ground. 6-50 is gradually being replaced by the twist-lock L6-50, but very slowly.

The 4-wire cable currently attached to your drier is a 14-30, which provides Hot, Hot, Neutral, and Ground. It's what new construction has, and the twist-lock version is what's on most 240v generators.

If your drier requires a neutral to operate (most have some minor 120v needs, like the motor, timer, or lighting), you can effectively use ground as a neutral to make it work. Of course, then you'd be carrying current on your household ground, which is generally frowned upon, but it's a truly minuscule amount. Especially considering most dryers wired with a 10-30 plug are using neutral for a ground, and carrying that same current in the body of the drier.

Pop that outlet off and see if there's an unused neutral wire inside. If there is, install a 14-30 outlet. If not, either buy a 6-50 cord or a 10-30 outlet and connect your dryer using ground for a neutral.

>>158309
It would be cheaper to purchase the outlet. However, then your house wouldn't be wired to code, because the plug would be technically wired incorrectly. If you change the plug on the drier instead, then the house is still wired properly, you just have a device that's breaking the rules. Which seems better to me.

>>158556
>>158556

If you could read you would see that the OP didn't get the machine gifted to him he bought it. In other words paid money or traded dope or something.

Pretty common these days for people to scam off their washers that don't work instead of pay disposal fees.

The buthurt in this thread is palpable.

>>156571
thanks for replying, any clue where i can get a 50A-250V 3-Wire nema 6-50 cord?

>>159201

Try your local home improvement store. If they have them, they're usually in either the appliance or electrical sections.

>>158983
Just buy it anywhere but lowes or home depot. Support your mom and pop stores. I worked at Lowes for 4 years until I was forced outta my job because it was deemed that I was making too much per hour. Fucking pricks, I had a perfect record, too.

>>156571
i would much prefer to buy online if possible.

>>159208
This. Also, from someone who works in a mom and pop appliance store, Whirlpool is currently producing shit appliances. I promise you they will break soon after purchase, and their tech support people are dicks.

op here
got my lid switch in the mail today
i fucking fixed it!!!
pic proves that ?diy?ers like yourself are awesome
you guys really helped me out
ill do what i can to return the favor

>>159947
dat satisfaction from sucessfully repairing something.

>>159947
Woot!
Glad you got it up and running. :)

>>159214
>Whirlpool is currently producing shit appliances.

To be honest, all domestic brands are shite now.
Some appliances are decent depending on the mfg, but in general their overall quality has went down.

You want something good? Step up to the boutique appliances.
Bosch, Asko, Miele, SubZero, etc....
Those are good machines.

Why do so many people have to make shitty pictures in unnecessary high resolutions?

<-- I'd say this should easily do the trick.

PS: Congratulations on fixing your washing machine though.

Good to hear op hope i helped a little

1994 maytag heavy duty have just had to fix the motor once and obviously belts when they wear out.. But I'm not going to buy one of the new ones cause they are shit they have fucking computers in them that are designed to break so you buy a new one.

>>160349
exactly. It's easy to diy fix an older machine that was actually built to last for more than ten years. Building computers into appliances makes things easier for the short term... Until they break.

>>160349
you have one of the venerable Dependable Care series of washers. Model# prob starts with a LAT.

These were some of the best machines made by Maytag.

Problem that you will have though is that when Whirlpool bought out Maytag a few years back they made the huge mistake to discontinue support of these older machines. Meaning parts will no longer be produced. So unless you find existing shelf stock, you will not be able to repair that dependable machine when it does finally go down.

When Maytag was a singular company they prided themselves on providing support for machines up to 20 yrs+ old. Now that Whirlpool owns them they no longer adhere to that standard.

Because what machine in todays day and age would ever last 20 yrs? lol

>>160373

It's a conspiracy. All washers made nowadays have these cheap $10 water pumps in them that 99% of the population doesn't know how to replace and when they fail the whole washer tub full of water just dumps out of the washer on to the floor. It is by far the weakest link and the fact they use such a cheap replaceable part leads me to think they do it because instead of replacing the part the average consumer will consider buying a new washer instead.

>>160396
sad thing is you are almost correct.

More and more people in todays time and age have no clue how to fix something. So they just go buy a new one once it dies.

>>160396
>>160402
It's called planned obsolescence. Probably the biggest 'innovation' in product design in the last 50 years. Practically every industry in the world has embraced the idea to some degree at this point.

>>159201
You should be able to get the bare 6-50 plug at any hardware store, but I haven't seen a complete cord with this plug pre-installed at retail, ever. Just buy the bare plug, cut the plug off of your old cord (or any expendable 3+ wire cord you happen to have lying around), and hook the new plug up.

>>160396
Capitalism is a fucking bitch,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence