/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First for Pew Pew (and no I'm not interested in Airsoft)

>>1578542
Have you ever considered starting an airshop soft?

I am considering designing a 3d printed gun for gyrojet bullets. This has the advantage that the barrel doesn't need to contain any pressure, it just needs to avoid catching fire. In fact, the barrel of gyrojet guns are full of holes. The disadvantage is that gyrojet bullets are expensive collectors items. So while it could be used as a weapon, in practice, it can't. Although I figure if I buy up a bunch of gyrojet bullets and release the file online I might be able to make money, because the supply of gyrojet bullets on the market will decrease much, much, faster. Inb4 go to /k/, it's too impractical to be used as a weapon. At best it can be described as art, at worst it's a horrid abomination.

>>1578558
Surely it wouldn't be that hard for a decent mill operator to make gyrojet bullets? Looks to me like a hollow shell with a pair of twisted nozzles filled with the stuff you use in solid rocket boosters.

>>1578402
You home yet, buddy?

>>1578498
>I just made a mold for a fleshlight but I'm not sure what silicone to use
>any advice?
Dont make the usual mistake and underestimate how hard almost all silicones actually are. They are mostly quite bendy and strechy when they are a thin layer, but they really build up some resistance specially when they get over half an inch thick which probaly is what you are aiming for. Picture related. Most stuff you regulary find is on the shore A scale and that is simply too hard.
My suggestion is to look into the Ecoflex and Dragonskin series of Smooth on and their Slackers.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ecoflex/
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/dragon-skin/
https://www.smooth-on.com/products/slacker/
Specially the how to videos come in handy to get an idea how flexible they actually are, if it is good enough for making medical training material, it should be good enough for your purpose. Now for the different types, Slackers is an additive that makes the silicone more gel like (mouse pad gel wrist rest or gel bicycle seat), but also weakens the silicone and makes it way more tacky. Dragonskin is basically too hard for a fleshlight would work better for dildos, but it can be mixed with slacker for the inner part of a fleshlight and the unmixed Dragonskin can be used to create a thin, durable not so tacky outer shell for it. Ecoflex is like an already mixture of Slacker and Dragonskin but is said to have a bit more endurance at the same hardness. You can also mix Slacker into Ecoflex if you want to, but unlike Dragonskin it is more tacky, so doesnt work so well as an outer skin.
Would also suggest you look into a ton of vids about such silicones and prop making.

>>1578558
Your only real problems are two;
1. Finding a suitable propellant that burns VERY consistently and is easy to form into fuel rods
2. Finding a material that lasts JUST long enough to be your printed nozzle

The first will require research, the second lots of experimental testing.

>>1578719
No I don't think you understand, this would fire antique gyrojet bullets. I would not print the bullets. It's not a weapon, it's more of an art piece.

My library lets me print stuff for free but explicitly forbids the printing of guns. I'd like to make some prop Destiny guns for my friends (pic related) and have the files.
Do you think I should ask permission to print prop guns that would never conceivably work, or print the parts that can't be identified as gun parts and find somewhere else to print the rest?
I'd rather not be banned from printing there.

>>1578643
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3510056
>pls no dox

>>1578728
If they know even the slightest bit about how 3D printing a gun would work and you show them the completely solid and not at all functional 3D files they will probably be okay with it

Unless they're super anti-gun and straight up refuse anything that looks like a gun, in which case, lol.

>>1578723
Those are rare as hen's teeth. Seriously. You're looking at hundreds of dollars a round.

>>1578728
my library is like that too, not even something non-functional that can be mistaken as a gun

>>1578723
Well that's piss easy.
The original guns are zinc.

>>1578728
Just buy a printer, stop wasting your time with public use shit.

>>1578723
Wtf are gyrojet bullets

>armor-piercing rocket rounds. Originally developed in a .51 caliber, the cartridges were self-contained self-propelled rockets
>Gyrojets fire smallrockets called Microjets which have little recoil and do not require a heavy barrel or chamber to resist the pressure of the combustion gases

Bruh sound effect #2

>>1578810
There is nothing wrong with public access printers, helps poor people get into printing.

>>1578785
I'm well aware. Do you get the joke now? Oh fuck, the gyrojet firing mechanism is complicated.

>>1578745
Sweet! Much obliged, my man.

How do i make lazy susan base with just household items?
I want my 3d printer thing to be able to rotate when sitting on the table but i don't have any balls to make a bearing

>>1579153
Not a good idea, your printer should ideally be on a rigid structure, one that doesnt move with the movement of the printer. Im sure alot of us keeping them on desks instead of an actual counter top or something like that introduces some sort of imperfection.

>>1579156
print not printer

>>1579158
Buy the hardware a lazy susan uses?

Anyone tried an MKS gen L board in their ender 3 with tmc2208 drivers? Seems like a good mod but quite expensive.

>>1579162
>Buy
why are you even in this thread buyfag?

What the fuck did I do wrong?

I switched from ABS to PLA to get better results and... pic related.

Same slicer (cura), same model, and I get holes in a solid walls :(
I believe I got the temperature right. I did print a couple of tests and all looked fine (bridges, surface, selected a temperature with the best look&feel etc.).
Any magical settings to get this printed right?

I don't get why people claim that PLA is so easy to print with. So far it gave me more headache than ABS. I hoped that wrapping will go away with PLA, and well, it did, but got replaced by a bazillion of worse trouble...

>>1579177
PLA is the easiest material to print.
It looks like the extruder is skipping, did you check that?
Post your settings (speed, temp, line width, layer height, nozzle dia, wall settings)
To be fair your ABS print is far from perfect, something is wrong there too.

>>1579188
> PLA is the easiest material to print.
So I've heard, but my experience counters that.

> Post your settings (speed, temp, line width, layer height, nozzle dia, wall settings)
wall speed 30mm/s, temp 200°C, layer 0.1mm,
line width & noozle dia 0.4mm,
walls are set to 0.8mm (and cura seems to thicken model walls to this width)

I also just printed the same model sliced with slic3r (that slices the tips incorrectly), and it still looks better. Even though it prints the 0.6mm walls of the model as 0.6mm in a single pass, unlike cura.

>>1579177
>>1579206
Post pic of your hotend. Maybe you have to long of a meltzone.

>>1579221
>Post pic of your hotend
That's it (and obviously with a PTFE tube inside).
Can this ancient hotend cause such trouble?

But still, if slic3r is able to produce a gcode that prints a solid 0.6mm wall, and cura has problems with 0.8mm walls, then I conclude that there must be something wrong with cura settings. But I cannot pin it :/

>>1579244
That is a very long throat. I reckon it could be the problem.
You want the distance between the nozzle and the heat sink to be as short as possible.

>>1579244
>Can this ancient hotend cause such trouble?
Back when PLA was a new thing people did research on how to get it to print propperly.
They even built a glass hotend to see what was going on.

A lazy saturday morning netted me this. I don't know why.

>>1579342
pill box?

>>1579349

Yeah, I made it match up with the original pill bottle caps.

The finish sucks on the dials because I printed them upside down so the axle and detent pin had the best chance of being perfect.

>>1579166
Its $10 or less, you're not gonna print something like that and you already said you dont have the balls for a bearing which youd buy anyways. Think logically, silly moron.

>>1579375
if finish matters, it would have been relatively simple to print them in two pieces and fuse it.

>>1578745
>>1579097
I'm going to need a .2mm nozzle for this, my .4mm print turned out better than I expected, but man does this have some fine details. The chain on the back, which I thought was sure to fail to print, actually turned out perfect.
Turns out it also is actually 25mm big, so when I get my nozzle and scale it up a bit I think it will be great. I was expecting this to be a SLA-only type deal, but I guess not.

So I'm fairly new to having an expensive printer, and I want to make sure I don't fuck things up right away
What should I be using for updating the firmware on a cr-10s? Something like Marlin, or TH3D?

>>1579508
The CR-10 runs Marlin. Get the 2.0 bugfix version, it's a beta but it runs really well.

>>1579508
>new to having an expensive printer
The cr-10s isn't an expensive printer. It's a very cheap one.
I'd recommend to only upgrade if you have problems with the current fw. If it's not broken, don't fix it.

>>1579222
stick to reddit.

>>1579222
Why is that Prusa direct drive?

>>1579565
Prusa printers have always been direct drive?

how would i go about adding rotationality on the z axis for a prusa mk 2, while still retaining the heated bed?

>>1579627
>rotationality on the z axis
what

>>1579636
i need to add rotation to the bed for a research project im working on righ now

>>1579644
You'd have to pretty much completely redo the bed mechanics, as well as write some code. There's not a lot of room under the bed for a stepper or any other hardware.

>>1579644
Why

>>1579649
my extruder nozzle has to be at a 45 degree angle for certain reasons, it can only print from right to left. To make any shape other than a block, i need to add bed rotation.

Reposting:
I have this dremel vice but the clamp isn't large enough to latch onto my work bench.
I want your input on my idea to increase jaw size. I was thinking I could print two spacer tubes and get longer bolts to go through them.
Pic related. If you look up top you can see the two screw holes that the pair of screws and metal washer off to the side screw into.
So, what does /diy/ think? Clever or full retard?

>>1579655
Buddy, you can buy a ten pack of normal nozzles for ten bucks. You can buy a decent E3D hot end clone for not much more. Maybe these would be more practical solutions than a really absurd rotating bed.

>>1579655
I'm very curious what you're printing that has that requirement, or what kind of absurd extruder modification you have to make that idea seem reasonable

>>1579674
For real. Adding the ability to rotate the z axis does not allow anything new to be printed. Adding degrees of freedom for rotating x+y or x+z, sure, but just rotating y does provably nothing.

Are Tevo Tarantula's truly as terrible as people claim them to be? I have one and while it does take a lot of tweaking and upgrading to get it to work it seems to work like a charm.
t. never used any other printer

I finally finished my spool drawers thing.
It's basically 4 printed drawers that fit into a spool and the spools are connected by 3d printed cylinders that screw together in the middle so i can add as my spools as i want on top
And the bottom is a lazy susan stand with a fully 3d printed gear bearing so it spins easily.
It works great and i am pretty happy i have a space to store my electronics shit and at the same time don't have to throw away empty spools

>>1579655
Can't you rotate the extruder? It may be easier and / or need less space around.

>>1579674
Not the same anon, but if you want to print, say, paste or add wire in you extruded medium, you could need it to print from a side.

>>1579661
Instead printing of two tubes, either cut to length already existing tubes, or print an extender which clips correctly with the existing body.

>>1579884
I figured it would be easier than hunting around for the right size. That and I'm useless at designing.
I could never design an extended bottom piece even though it's not a complex shape.
Maybe if I could find a video tutorial that has lessons that build on themselves. Otherwise I feel lost and overwhelmed.

I'm building an enclosure for my cr10-s but I'm having second thoughts of the walls of my box, I'm gonna use OSB since I have a ton of it laying around but what does that mean for firesafety?
Are there any anons who have built an enclosure out of similar woodpanels that can tell me more if it poses a risk or not? Or any methods that make is fire-proof/safer?

>>1579964
Nvm, I'm gonna get some fire retardant soundproofing and put it around on the walls. Seems to be the proper solution.

>>1579939
Well, you gotta learn one day, so better start with something easy like this.
Just do your cylinder stuff, it's easy to model and print.
You can use freeCad if you want free stuff or Cathia / Solid Works / Solid Edge if you don't care about legal stuff.

>>1580044
I have so many ideas and so little ability, it drives me nuts.
Do you know of any good tutorials/YouTube channels etc?

>>1580046
Nope, sorry. I learnt in engineering school how to use it and self learnt each time I used a new software.
But basically, you will sketch you "top view" of your object (so two circles in your particular case), and then "extrude" it (meaning ask the computer to create a tube from a circle).
Search for "XXX beginer tutoral" on youtube (with XXX your program of course) and watch like two or three from different people. Some will be fast, other slow. So by watching multiple, you will have more chances to understand.

Other programs exists too.

glue stick or hairspray for my glass bed. Printing pla and petg.

>>1580101
Gluestick

>>1580102
Oh, and make sure you have an adequate layer of gluestick when printing PETG. That shit sticks to glass like crazy, Itll take chunks out of the glass when removing a print if you let the PETG come in contact with bare glass.

>>1580101
What I did was buy one of those Chinese copy buildtak magnetic stickers. You can glue that onto the glass just fine, and I've had perfect adhesion since.

Ender 3 owners, update your marlin and activate bed PID. I just did this and it made my layer line 80% less visible.

>>1580128
what version

>>1580132
I got the 2 beta, but this has been an option since like 2013 so I don't think version matters.

>>1580102
Do I need to apply glue every time I print or is once in a while good enough

>>1580153
When doing PETG Id do it every time, Like I said if the PETG comes in contact with the glass it will literally take chunks out of the plate when removing the print. PLA on the other hand Ive gotten away with applying it every 2 or 3 prints but thats only if the prints are back to back, no real time in between them.

>>1580153
I use diluted Elmer's Glue for PLA and have had great results for 20+ prints without reapplication

>2019
>gluestick

>>1580175
>2019
>being as stupid as you are

>>1580085
Ok, thank you anon.

Question on slicing software.
I would like to be able to manipulate the view of my object with my mouse. I use Cura and it's irritating and sub-optimal to go into the drop down menu and choose from a set of ridged view points.
Am I missing a setting or do I need to use another program?
Thanks in advance.

>>1580229
You can just pull around in the view with your right mouse button to revolve around the centre, click with scroll wheel to move around, and left click to move the stuff on the build plate.

>>1580236
Ok, thanks. I'll check it out.

>>1580101
Hairspray is easier to apply evenly and has given me the best adhesion results. Also doesn't leave as much residue on prints or your bed, and doesn't require as much cleaning in between prints. Make sure you get the cheapest, strongest stuff from the Action, that works perfect. Also this >>1580112.

>>1579508
Same anon, is there a good resource for Cura setup? I tried 3 different setups based on various videos so far, but each has been a bust
I know it isn't a problem with the printer because the test code works out fine each time

>>1580302
Check out the CR-10 facebook groups. Other than that welcome to 3D printing. I spent 6 months, more or less, getting my CR-10 to the point it is now. As of this point I throw new filament in, slice something, and receive as close to a perfect print an FDM printer can do.

>>1580133
neat, I changed it
also a good reminder to change the x/y homing speed
not sure if they fixed it in 2.0 but it was too fast in 1.9 by default

>>1580306
I've got most of the problems down, but do you have any idea why this is happening with any of the new gcodes I'm making? It puts down most of the base layer (as fucked as it is) and then starts gobbing up on the nozzle

>>1579644
this should be interesting for you
https://youtu.be/KP2G4fE0ssI?t=355
do you want to rotate the print head or the whole bed+part ? (should be equivalent a the end but i guess rotating the print head is much simpler)

>>1580317
nozzle too far from bed
also clean the nozzle off

>>1580306
>>1580302
>each has been a bust
What exactly do you mean with that

>resource for Cura setup
The stock Cura 3.6 PLA settings are already quite good and should give you a useable print.
Make sure to set the printing temp to what the filament manufacturer specifies and don't print over 40mm/s for the beginning.
I ended up extracting the print settings out of the test_dog.gcode file that came with my Ender 3 and made a cura profile out of it. But there were no magical settings in there.

Cura has a gazillion different settings and please only change those that you fully understand what they are doing. Leave anything else to the stock Cura values.
And be aware of some youtube/facebook smartass voodoo settings wank.

You can always do autistic fine tuning to get the last grain out but with mostley stock settings you should get pretty good prints already or something else in the chain is wrong.

>>1580317
That just looks like your bed isnt level...

Also make sure your nozzle size is set to 0.4 and filament diameter is 1.75.

>>1579153
Two round pieces of wood, mill a channel on one side of both.
And then throw some cheap glass marbles inside the channel.

>>1580317
Your first layer isn't even sticking, your second layer is definitely not sticking to the not stuck first layer. Level your bed, bring it closer to the nozzle.

>>1579557
Imagine being this salty about not being able to afford a prusa.

Similar to getting mad at someone for driving a nice car, because they can afford it and you think it's a waste.

Classy.

ITT:

Retards who can't afford prusa circlejerk around chinkshit

>>1580441
t. prusasoi shill who can't see the terrible value his machine offers

>>1580441
nice try trollboi
prusa is an overpriced shit made from 3d printed plastic
my chink printer costs literally 4 times less and is made entirely from metal

>>1580441
What you're really buying is tech support; if you're willing/capable of fixing your own shit, why would you be salty about someone who cant/doesn't want to? That's like getting mad at people who take their car to the mechanic to get their oil changed.

>>1580473
>tech support
Not even that. I've head good stories from Creality and Anycubic for example where they'd send you spare parts without questions asked. What you're paying for is quality control, which is critical for a functioning 3D-printer.

>>1580491
Call me a shill or whatever but I got a free MOSFET even though I later discovered it was a bad connector, so yeah they are fine imo

>>1580491
>QC
>3d printed parts

What they're paying for is the name, the cult leader makes a point of branding everything with his name. He's no steve jobs though and even his empire is crashing because people are fed up with paying 4x more for shit that is designed to fail.

>>1580452
I don't own a prusa, but they use some high quality parts that imo justify the price somewhat.

- bed leveling probe (+15$~ to cheap shit)
- einsy board (+80$~ to cheap shit)
- bond tech gear extruder (+25$~)
- steppers coupled to Z-screws (+15$~)
- noctua fans (+5$~)

>>1580491
I don't own a prusa but part of good tech support is good documentation, and prusa has really great detailed docs.
Probably why you don't see Prusa owners constantly asking about basic shit here.

>>1580554
>Probably why you don't see Prusa owners constantly asking about basic shit here.
I doubt it, nobody RTFM.

>>1580548
they also use an original E3D hotend instead of a clone, that's around 50$ more

This piece just came flying of geeetech a10m. I couldn't tell where it popped from, other than "from the back". Can anyone enlighten me as to what it is and where it's supposed to go? Printer didn't even seem to really mind, just kept printing.

>>1580564
God dammit

>>1580564
>>1580565
Looks like a thingy

>>1580565

Kinda looks like a balljoint for an effector - considering that the a10m is not a delta it might've fallen in there at the factory somehow.

>>1580578

It's weird that it waited a couple dozen prints to decide to pop out, but I don't really see where it could fit.

I guess I'll just keep printing and if a big chunk of the printer falls off I'll know where to put it.

Thanks.

>>1580582

Check if it's magnetic, some of these balljoints are designed to attach by magnetism alone, so it might've been clinging onto some steel part of the printer for awhile.

>>1580584
The ball is usually just steel though, which fits into a ring shaped magnet.

>>1580584
>>1580587

Can confirm it's not magnetic. I don't see any ring-shaped anything that looks like it's missing a ball either.

>>1580591
No the delta printers that use these have ring shaped magnets he's saying.

You got chinese QC and some one else's delta printer is missing a ball that is all.

Apparently the first couple of sets in the original size were too big so I was asked to scale them down a bit
They never specifies how small and I think I may have gone too small

>>1579222
Ayo your plant is trying to get up and leave

>>1580633
Are these for tabletop gaming?

How small are we talking here? Can't really tell from that photo.

>>1580621
Well, my printer is continuing to work fine so I guess that's really what happened.

Anyone wanna buy a single ball joint?

>>1580645
I think he wants to use them for AoS skelly bases, now that I've set it next to a 28mm model I know they are too small
Also what's the best way to keep long thin parts like arms and claws from breaking off while you're trimming supports

>>1580718
I forgot my pic

>>1580642
>leaf

>>1580565
>>1580564

Update, turns out I'm just blind. These are used to fix the filament runout centers loosely in place. Somehow my filament sensor just broke off mid-print, possibly during a retraction I guess?

>>1580718
>Also what's the best way to keep long thin parts like arms and claws from breaking off while you're trimming supports

Be very very careful.
For ones that look particularly dangerous, I've had some luck using a soldering iron to melt the supports off. You have to be careful not to melt the whole arm though.

>>1580514
>even his empire is crashing
He's gone through 3 commercial product releases, with a fourth on the way, and is now expanding into filament. How in hell is that crashing?

>>1580718
Use sharp flush cutters (not a knife), and clip it very slowly. Remove supports before post-curing.

>>1580438
Search the video. They upload to reddit.

>>1580800
Youd have to be autistic to actually give a shit.

>>1580803
You're part of the problem.

>>1580804

Another damn print ruined in the 11th hour by a petg booger. Literally at 11:20 out of a 12:40 print.

Atleast it finally got me to throw in my copper block and nozzle. And I didn't forget the sock this time.

>>1580806
Go to /soc/ if you're going to post selfies.

>tfw gonna buy a 3d printer next week
I'm real excited to learning everything there is to learn about FDM printing and post processing.
I don't actually have anything practical to print though.

>>1580982
This is what everyone did a few years ago. Ended up with a bunch of Anet A8s rotting away in their garages after they printed a bunch of calibration boats.

>>1580982
>I don't actually have anything practical to print though
DO NOT BUY SPECIALTY EQUIPMENT WITHOUT A REASON!
you wouldnt buy a lathe without having any wood to shape, why would you buy a 3d printer with nothing to print?
Dont waste your money anon, either find a legitimate reason to buy one or wait until something vaguely reason shaped comes your way to buy it

>>1580984
I don't see myself stopping at boats desu.
I want to print a bunch of props and figures from video games. Though they don't really have any use aside from display

>>1580988
That's fair I guess. I can't see myself ever needing to print anything actually useful. Just neat little gadgets and whatnot.

>>1580988
True.

Let me also add:
DO NOT BUY A 3D PRINTER IF YOU DON'T MASTER A 3D MODELING+SLICING SOFTWARE!

there's plenty of faggots around who bought a 3D printer and they just download shitty models from thingiverse and always complain the model is slightly different than what they expected to be

>>1581000
"you lying faggot, the picture has it in gold but mine came out in shitty white plastic"

Aliexpress aniversary sale is in a few days, anyone buying anything? Anything new around that is worth a look at?

>>1580872
>I know you are but what am I
So desperate to shitpost you simultaneously prove youre underage.

>>1581000
I bought mine without any knowledge so go fuck yourself you crying baby

i wanna upgrade from my 12x12x12 cm printer to something bigger, but i still dont wanna spend over 500 euros
any recommendations?
i want at least 20 if not 30 cm x,y and z area

>>1581227
CR-10

>>1581295
What does the number after the price mean?

>>1580719
Where is that dragon model from?

>>1581295
I'm curious why Prusa didn't make the list - or is this a chinese-only chart?

>>1581319
Not OP, but it's the price divided by build volume.
Just watch the video for more info (link as the picture's name)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxFLkqD6QTU

>>1581321
https://www.gambody.com/3d-models/mountain-dragon
It's the sample file, it came out really good on the photon

is 3d printing good for anything pragmatic, or is it just for ""adult men"" to make toys for themselves?

>>1581402
Good for mechanical parts
>Fixed my fridge door
>brackets th keep the cats from knocking a planter out of the window
>fuseblock holder
>hex "nut" with an o-ring to go around my e-cig to keep it from rolling
>cable tie-downs
I find it pretty handy to fix stuff and other /diy/ that I'd otherwise have to fab by hand

>>1580780
>How in hell is that crashing?
Because there were no survivors.

>>1581000
>there's plenty of faggots around who bought a 3D printer and they just download shitty models from thingiverse
Trips of truth, guilty as charged.
At least I didn't have to pay for it, my brother stores it in my workshop lol.
I really need to learn, I need to print out repair parts for things etc
>>1581402
If I get my shit together:
>replacement intake trumpet for my car
>claw for my grabber because I can't bend my back
>replacement parts for my nerf gun
>and of course d&d figures

>>1581227
>>1581295
The Anycubic Chiron is 490 USD for a 400*400*450mm build volume, that would rank as a 0.68 on that ridiculous scale - it should be 6.8USD/L, as opposed to an Ender 3 which is 17USD/L.

>>1581371
It's a chart for Creality printers. Prusa really can't compete in terms of price per build volume: a Mk3 costs between 68 and 91 USD/L of build volume - almost ten times as much as a CR-10S5.

>>1581416
>>1581402
The nice thing about 3D-printing as a production method is that, once you've set your printer up properly, it's fire and forget. No need to fab stuff for hours when a printer can just run on it's own.

>>1581371
see
https://pastebin.com/jYCv1Rri

>>1581402
While I mostly make useless things, it has more or less paid for every roll of filament and accessory in things I have printed. Especially once you get into printing accessories for motorcycles and appliances. It adds up fast. I hope to have the printer pay for itself completely before I've had it a year. In that sense, I use it as a tool and not a toy. That won't stop me from fabbing anything I want thought. Right now I'm printing out the entirety of https://www.youmagine.com/designs/m3-sk-the-modular-speaker-experimentation-kit and have modded it to fit https://www.parts-express.com/aurasound-nsw2-326-8at-whisper-2-extended-range-speaker-driver-8-ohm--296-252 that I have lying around.

I've had my eye on 3D printing for awhile but the possible noise, uncomfortable heat and electric cost have been helping me decide against it. If y'all could answer some questions it would really help me out.

How loud are they? since I'm in an apartment with a roommate, don't wanna keep her up if this thing is gonna be making a ton of noise, or might there be something I can put over it that won't mess up prints bit keep it quiet?

Does the heat from the printer itself have any noticeable effect on the room? Like you walk in and think "boy it sure is hot in here" or it's uncomfortable to be in the room for a long amount of time?

Since some prints could have the printer going for quite awhile, what effect does this have on your electric bills? I could save up enough to get all the hardware, but I'm still a poorfag, I don't want one purchase to increase my bills for the rest of my life if I use the printer frequently.

>>1581509
>How loud are they?
Some printers are quieter than others. Some even offer a "quiet mode".
Mine are a bit noisier than a regular paper printer. I wouldn't want to sleep in the same room as them. Maybe keep your printer in the living room / furthest common area from the bedrooms? Not in the kitchen or bathroom as the moisture can fuck up your filaments.

>Does the heat from the printer itself have any noticeable effect on the room?
Not at all. About the same effect as an old incandescent lightbulb would have.

>Since some prints could have the printer going for quite awhile, what effect does this have on your electric bills?
This depends on the printer, but usually not much. The printer draws a fair amount of power to heat up, but then maintains itself rather easily. The hotend, which is the hottest bit, is small, so it doesn't take much energy to keep at high temperatures. If you get a heated bed, which you should, that does require a bit more power, but it doesn't need to get very hot, so it balances out.

>>1580988
Ehhh. Not exactly.

Don't spend serious money on equipment you don't have a reason to use. Buying a cheap 3d printer, last cutter, or lathe to lean how to use it really is fine. Saving your beer money for a few weeks to buy one? Fine. Buying it on credit card? Not fine. Not learning how to use it after you buy it? Not. Fine.

>>1581514
>he doesn't go to sleep to the sound of stepper motors and under-lubricated rods

Im building a meter cubed 3D printer and I was wonder would a half inch diameter lead screw be suffice for the Z axis carriage(the bed is non moving)

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/ACME-Thread-Lead-Screw-Nuts/ACME-Thread-Lead-Screws/1-2--10-x-36-Acme-Lead-Screw-1-2983-50-3.axd

>>1581490
>printing accessories for motorcycles
Examples?

>>1581509
Just want to focus down on something >>1581514 said briefly about power usage: the heat bed is the major power draw on a 3D printer. If you stick to PLA, 75 to 99% of the time you don't really need the heat bed on; you'll only need to turn it on for larger prints, to combat warping.

>>1581514
Thank you so much!
That was very helpful. From the sound of it the noise is gonna be my biggest problem. But like you said if I keep it far from the bedrooms then I might just have to print during certain hours.
Would you know if I'd be able to stop a print and resume it later? Or would the filament cooling mess up the integrity of the print?

>>1581587
I'm not other Anon, but people really trump up the noise. My duet powered RMaxV2 is near silent. My roommates dont even know it's going unless they look through the window and see the effector moving. All this is without tuning the motors to get rid of the last bit of coil wine at certain speeds.

>>1581514
I remember a guy posted the power consumption screencap of a smart plug app for a 200/60 ender3, it averaged 65Wh or something.

>>1581587
The stock ender3 motors are awfully loud, I can hear it printing from upstairs. Then again my brother has a Wanhao and it's near silent printing at the same speed.

I cant wait for my chiron to come in so I can get caught up with all the terrain in my backlog

>>1581509
>Since some prints could have the printer going for quite awhile, what effect does this have on your electric bills?
I'm running seven printers in a single closet for 18 to 20 hours per day. In total they average 4.5 amps of draw together. That means each printer averages 80 watts maximum for a given day.

5 amps for 20 hours per day at the price per killowat hour in my state ($0.11/kwh) means I'm only spending $1.20 per day on electricity.

What is a good brand for ball bearings?

I don't want to go too cheapshit but don't want to spend way more than I should for ball bearings on a 3D printer

>>1581630
SKF or bust.

>>1581599
>tuning the motors to get rid of the last bit of coil wine
I didn't know this was a thing. How do you do it?
>>1581613
Do you own a small business? That's a lot of production capability.

>>1581630

>>1581509
>How loud are they?
If you're looking at the ender 3 like 75% of people here, it's loud as fuck. Mainly because it uses cheap drivers that pulse the motors at audible frequencies. There are options out there for mainboard replacements or buying a printer that uses the more expensive trinamic drivers that pulse the motors outside (human) audible frequencies (may drive dogs batshit).

See the link and compare @17:15 vs 17:45 for the upgrade.
https://youtu.be/lVVis30gp_Y?t=1035

>>1581634
>>1581634
yeah this

>>1581785
I'm 90% sure that's nerfanon (captainslug or whatever his etsy handle is)
He 3d prints and sells custom nerf guns, everything from individual parts to whole kits

>>1581820
FAG are better, less counterfeits. Sounds cool.
NSK are good to, but chinks make too many shitty knock offs.

>>1581785
Start by adjusting max current to motors. The rest might be specific to duet in my case. Forums are the best place to learn.

>>1581831
Does he do airsoft?

I figured you guys would know most about nema17s. Considering buying some MINEBEA hybrid stepper motors. They are weak with a holding torque of like .280N/m but you can buy a lot. I was thinking that I could use these to build a laser cutter/pcb mill/3d printer and just about anything else thats not a lathe or router.

Creality sale on AliExpress in a few hours

>>1581947
are these actually creality, or chick crap knockoff?

>>1581956
shipped and sold by creality

>>1581947
Is the cr-10s pro worth the extra 200$, or should i just get the cr-10s?

>>1581969
Those 200 USD are bad value compared to the main body of the printer - but if you want the features it's worth it.

>>1581945
Yep, 17's are golden for anything that isn't negative manufacturing, with the exception of the laser engravers and cutters. The PCB mill is questionable, but if you keep it small and tight, it should perform adequately.

>>1581945

How cheap are they? Regular 4kg.cm Wantais go for about 12$ a piece

Guys, help me with my PETG printing issue. Whenever I try to print with this material it keeps to roll up after the nozzle and not sticking properly to the bed.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Nozzle temperature: 240C
Bed temp: 90C
Printing speed: first layer 15mm/s, regular 30mm/s
initial layer: 0.3mm
Fan speed: first 2 layers off, then 50%

Things I tried: Cleaning the nozzle, cracking temp up to 250, washing the bed with soap.

>>1582050

What about making the initial layer smaller so it smooshes in better, maybe 0.2 or 0.1mm. Also try having about 5 loops of skirt around the print instead of starting the part right away

>>1582050
What brand PETG? Lower your bed temp according to spec, I print at 60 degrees. An Ender 3 should be able to run much faster, but reduce the layer height to 0.2mm. Keep fans off during the print, who cares about runniness if you have zero bed adhesion. Don't wash your bed with soap, soap is explicitly designed to keep stuff from sticking to it. Instead, clean with isopropyl alcohol and then put a light coat of hairspray on.

>>1582057
If you're desperate for adhesion, don't reduce primary layer height. Instead, run it nice and slow (10-15mm/s), give it a big first layer (0.3-0.4mm) and level the bed a tad high. This will give you the desired squish to adhere to anything. Fuck skirts, real men use 10 brim lines.

>>1582102

I stand by my suggestion because:
- Anon already tried it at 15mm/s
- There's a chance they don't have the bed exactly level and a large first layer height will only increase the chance of it not sticking
- Brims are annoying because they never come off cleanly and get in the way when you need to have one part fit into another. They help if youre having lifting or curling problems but otherwise they can be avoided.

>>1582050 - anon here.

Hairspray and bed leveling helped a lot (there's still some bumpy stuff going on on the skirt).

>>1582102
PETG from Bestfilament. It's russian filament, cheapest and pretty quality stuff.

Tbqh I think 240C is a bit too much - there's subtle stringing and other nasty stuff. Also layers have melted together almost in monolith form, so it was very dificult to remove support. For comparison: On the same model printed with PLA support and skirt could be removed easily with fingers. Now, with PETG, I had to use knife and hammer to chop it off.

What's the best way to implement auto bed leveling on an Ender 3?

>>1579206

try oil seeding your nozzle, or put oil into the sponge you're using as a dirt filter.

Whatever the problem is, its not the Pla as the abs prints are shit as well

Finished PETG temp tower. What causes those thick loops on the corners? Right now retraction is 4.5mm, I'm kinda scared to push it further.

>>1582050
>>1582183

Clean the bed with a fat solvant like isopropyl alcohol or ethanol.
Reduce the initial layer height to 0.2mm.

Use the nozzle temp in the middle of the spec range.

Bed temp is fine, I print PETG @ 80°C bed on my ender.

Initial layer speed of 25mm/s should be absolutely fine.

Experiment with getting the bed closer or more far away from the nozzle.
PETG works without hairspray or anything on the stock ender bed. As long as you're not using a glass bed.

>>1582102
>Lower your bed temp according to spec
Thats bs. Use the nozzle temp according to filament spec for the start but bed temp: whatever works for you.
The hotter the stickier.

>>1582209
Worst idea and biggest bullshit in the 3D printing community, never do this.

>>1582246
this

>>1582245
>but bed temp: whatever works for you.
>The hotter the stickier.
Adhesion works best in certain ranges, I've cranked up beds to 150C on certain exotic machines and you will definitely lose adhesion. Stick to the manufacturer's recommendations unless you know what you're doing.

>>1579206
>So I've heard, but my experience counters that.
Did you just randomly switch from print ABS to printing PLA? Whenever I switch from ABS to PLA I have to heat the extruder to slightly above ABS printing temps, load the PLA, discharge 500mm, then cool to 100C and do a cold pull on the filament just to make sure there's no ABS left in the nozzle.

Or inversely I do a cold pull with the ABS first, then load the PLA and extrude 200mm at ABS temps.

Residual ABS when trying to print at PLA temps will give you partial clogs.

>>1582260
I meant within a range of 50°C to 90°C for PLA, PETG and TPU.
But yeah 100+ fluid physics change

>>1578545
Based

>>1581793
>>1581851
>>1581634
Where have you got your bearings from?
I don't shop amazon that often and now that there are lots of third parties on there I don't really trust them anymore
Industrial sites seem to charge more but be more trustworthy

>>1582246

Works fine for me, I use it with the all metal hotend I installed on this and now I can print PETG at 30mm/s at .2 layer high with very little ringing

>>1582047
like $2 each cheap.

>>1578540
You guys going to become the /diy/ casting dept. ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4--fiBGMIpc

>>1582578
this stuff is amazing

>3d print mold
>coat in ceramic liquid
>bake it
>attach sprues
>pour molten metal

???profit???

Is it worth it to spend the two hours it would take to upgrade my marlin from 1.9 to 2.x?
Are there any huge improvements?

>>1582578
>>1582582
That "polycast" stuff is just PVB, according to their sds. Youtube helpfully followed up that vid with one of a dood casting with lost PLA. I'd love to print Zamac directly, but that's not going to happen on my budget.

>>1582592
What is the ceramic coating they were applying to the 3d printed parts?

>>1582590
Stick with 1.1.9. Almost everything is the same and any improvements arent worth your time.

>>1582578
Wow, gibs pls

>>1582611
https://www.pyradia.com/products/melting-furnaces/

Do dampeners do anything other than reduce noise? Would these work on my Ender 3? They are $2 a piece

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEMA-17-Damper-Meal-Rubber-Stepper-Motor-Vibration-Dampers-Imported-genuine-shock-absorber-With-Heat-Sink/32952524651.html

How am i supposed to define the parking coordinates for fillament change in marlin 1.1.9?
The config option is completely missing.
On the right side is the factory config file for my printer which is marlin 1.1.6
On the left is 1.1.9 config file and there is nothing even resembling PAUSE_PARK_X_POS there

>>1582638
Dampeners isolate the printer from the vibration of the motor; they *may* reduce noise (if the motor itself is noisy, they aren't going to do a hell of a lot). At $2 a whack, it's probably worth a shot. Don't bother with one for your Z axis (your Z barely moves). Also, I wouldn't bother with the heat sinks; your motors are already shedding heat from every exposed surface, just sticking an aluminum sink on there isn't going to magically do anything.

>>1582644
Yeah I wasn't going to bother with the heatsinks should I get one for the extruder?

>>1582640
Found it. Those retards moved those config values to a different file and renamed them too so you can't just ctrl + f them.
that is an hour of my life i am never getting back

>>1582651
>>1582640
Fucking hell.
All that work for nothing.
I uploaded the 1.1.9 to the printer and the LCD isn't working for some reason.
And i triple checked to make absolutely sure i matched all the config values from the config and config_adv files (it is using this display http://reprap.org/wiki/Mini_panel
//)
Rest of the printer worked fine so i know the upload was fine.
So i tried uploading the 1.1.6 back in there and the lcd is working again. Welp, i'll just have to stick with 1.1.6 i guess.

How do anons to keep track of different print settings when you're testing? For instance I want to play around with different settings to see how they affect the condition rings for my d&d characters.

>>1582645
I wouldn't; you X/Y are really the culprets when it comes to vibration. Nothing else really moves much.

>>1582599
That's industry standard "ceramic shell mould material" used in lost-wax casting. It isn't really a ceramic. What the Polycast video shows is standard industrial lost-wax casting with a 3d part substituted for the cast wax part.

>>1582737
You save profiles

>>1582868
Yes but you can't add notes, afaik. Maybe you can and I'm an idiot.

>>1582896
Slic3r allows for adding notes. Not sure about Cura though.

>>1582976
Thanks

>>1581811
Wow, thanks for this anon. So the ender3 is a silent option long as I have the trinamic drivers? No dogs so no worries.

>>1582461
I guarantee you it would work exactly the same without the oil. The only thing oiling your filament is going to do is cause it to build up in the hotend and eventually clog everything.

>>1583165
Excess oil gets pushed out of the nozzle.
If you used too much oil, your layer adhesion will be crap for a few prints but your hotend will be fine.

>>1583168
yea if you honestly think all that shit gets out the nozzle youve never done a cold pull. That oil crap is the biggest placebo in this hobby. Do yourself a favor, spare everyone the useless argument, and just quit doing it.

>>1583170
Yeah there will be some oil on the filament. That's the point, mate.
I got a long bowden tube and oiling is essential for me. Placebo my ass.

>>1583171
Bowden tubes are made of teflon, the entire reason for their material choice is the low friction. If your bowden tube is so long that the filament cant get through it without being oiled you need to either shorten the tube or get a stronger extruder motor.

100% placebo and literally anyone that knows anything about 3D printers will agree.

>>1583176
>Bowden tubes are made of teflon, the entire reason for their material choice is the low friction.
Wow really, tell me more obvious shit, Einstein.
Friction can still be further reduced by oiling. I have a delta and have to live with a fairly long bowden tube (unless you have some flying extruder or similar).
Even a strong extruder will have problems and a strong extruder won't help you at all when you print something more flexible like PETG and have the filament contract too much.

>100% placebo and literally anyone that knows anything about 3D printers will agree.
Like who? You obviously don't know jack shit about 3d printing.

>>1583180
Whatever man, you're clearly to set on incorrect to give a fuck about destroying your printer, lowering layer adhesion, and fuckall else.Teflon has one of the lowest friction coefficients among solids, adding oil probably gives you ~1% improvement at best. But like I said, I dont give a fuck enough to flood the thread, all it will do it make you spill chromosomes and continue being clueless.

>>1582578
>/diy/ steel casting
Not in a million years, probably. Steel casting is something not many people can do, as far as I know, due to the temperatures/crystallizations/etc. involved.

>>1583181
>gets called out on your bullshit
>whatever
lol

What happened to all the 3d printing experts that know that oiling is obvious bullshit? Why can't you still show me a single one?

Also a simple experiment for you: Take a metre of PTFE tube and some filament, push it through the tube manually. Then oil it and repeat the experiment.

>>1583185
Is reading not a strong point for you, better add that to the list on top of 3D printing. I said an hour ago you should spare the thread a retarded argument. I assume you can hear though so go ahead and lookup oiling your filament on youtube, there are a few dozen videos disproving the need for a filament filter to begin with, likely more for fucking OILING your filament.

If you bowden tube is a meter long and you absolute MUST oil the filament to not get underextrusion youre either pushing the limits of a delta design or as Ive also already mentioned need a stronger extruder motor. Id be willing to bet there is not a single other person in this thread that thinks or could be convinced to think oiling filament is a good idea.

You are incredibly daft, fuck off back to whatever special ed class produced you.

>>1583186
>If you bowden tube is a meter long
Fucking bowdenlets, 1550mm reporting in.

>>1583186
>I said an hour ago you should spare the thread a retarded argument.
Then why do you keep making your retarded arguments? Instead of just admitting you don't have a fucking clue.
You got a decent print out of your Ender3 and now you're THE EXPERT in 3d printing and everyone who disagrees with you must be an idiot.
Fuck you and everyone like you.

>likely more for fucking OILING your filament.
Then fucking post them instead of whining.

>as Ive also already mentioned need a stronger extruder motor.
I've already told you why you can't just increase extruder strength arbitrarily.

>Id be willing to bet there is not a single other person in this thread that thinks or could be convinced to think oiling filament is a good idea.
There's the other guy who originally suggested it hours ago. So you already lost that bet.

>You are incredibly daft, fuck off back to whatever special ed class produced you.
Oh no, you call me mean names. Now you've really convinced me of your position.

>>1583187
Tell me anon, do you oil your filament or are you samefagging?
>>1583191
>the other guy
>Im gonna pretend it wasnt me for the sake of my argument
Its adorable how desperate you are to prove you aren't beyond clueless. Have fun tossing salad dressing on your filament, you'll figure out things out one of these days champ.

>>1583193
>Tell me anon, do you oil your filament or are you samefagging?
Not samefagging. I'm currently running in excess of 35mm3/s, which is pushing the limit of the V6 Volcano. Maybe once we put in a SuperVolcano we might run into so much underextrusion that we need an oiler.

>>1583193
Yes, everyone who disagrees with your stupid shit is obviously a samefag lol

>>1583191
>Be me, old replicator dual design with end of live Teflon liner
>extruder always clicks, prints are shit
>add sponge to bowden holder I printed years ago
>one drop of sewing machine oil added
>it justfucking works, 10flawless prints in a row
LOL, oil is such a mene xddd

>>1583197
>be me, in charge of 6 ultimakers for college STEM Lab
>one underextrudes out of the box
>loosened the idler bearing and made sure the extruder motor was receiving correct current

Ive changed my mind, a special ed class would probably be better at this than you placebo fuckwits.

>>1582461
>>1583165
>>1583168
>>1583170
>>1583171
>>1583176
>>1583180
>>1583181
>>1583185
>>1583186
>>1583191
>>1583193
>>1583195
>>1583196
>>1583197
>>1583207
I'd just like to interject here and say that having smooth filament goes a long way towards solving inconsistent underextrusion problems. Has nothing to do with the quality or price of said filament, some filaments are just shit and some are inexplicably good (amazon blue PLA is not one of them). My best printing filament is a roll of black PLA that looks like it's made of silk on the spool; worst is amazon basics that looks like bits of dyed sand glued together.

Another anon interjecting here, i haven't tried oil so i can't say if it's a meme or not, but:

- Isn't contaminating your filament with oil a bad idea?
- With printing temperatures beyond 200C that would be way past the smoke point for most household oils resulting in carcinogenic fume emissions
- Wouldn't the inside of the heatbreak and nozzle eventually start looking like the griddle at a fast food place from all the burnt oil?
- If you have a clicking extruder the problem lies elsewhere and you're not really solving it

>>1583237
Don't use cooking oil - you're not trying saute something.
Use lubricating oil for bicycles/small machines.

>>1583244
flash point of 3-in-1 oil is 152c what are you doing

>>1583327
It's not 3-in-1 oil - I don't really know what you'd call the oil in America (Feinmechaniköl - literally fine mechanic oil) it has a flash point of over 220°C.

Also flash point =/= autoignition point. Do you keep a lit candle near your 3d printer?

My body is ready.

>>1583397
But do you have 67 spools ready?

>>1583397

That's about 260 meters per hour. I don't know if the extruder can even spin that fast.

Finally built an enclosure for my CR-10S, now sound no longer is an issue. Don't worry the padding is fireretardant and there's a fire extinguisher right next to my bed. Feels great man

>>1583407
he doesnt know about trinamic drivers

>>1583408
Just make some tennis ball feet. My printer is silent as fuck now.

>>1583398
>>1583402
>spools
>filament
What are these things you mortals speak of? This printer uses pellets.

>>1583408
I know about the TMC2130, but they aren't compatible with the 2.1 board so if I wanted to get those I would need to get a ramps and fix all the other stuff that works with that and I don't want go through all that shit. Building a box looks better anyways.

>>1583409
It's placed on a foam mat that reduces the vibrations from the printer so I already got that going, now all I need are some Z-braces.

Anyway I found some other issues that's been bothering me for a long time now, and wherever I search I can't find a similar issue, does anyone know why it just let's go at random places? My leveling is fine and I clean it with isopropynol between prints and still these spots happen.

>>1582638
These made a world of difference to my ender 3, it dulls the sound, like you have earplugs in.
Take note how your Y axis stepper at the back sits because you can move it around a bit on the dampener before its tightened, if its too high the bed undercarriage will hit it.

>>1583419
heh, post extruder design pls.

>>1583237
>yes
>most of the time yes, I can only hope they find an oil with a higher vapor point but they likely aren't that smart considering they are using oil in the first place
>yes
>exactly

>>1583407
>Finally built an enclosure for my CR-10S, now sound no longer is an issue. Don't worry the padding is fireretardant and there's a fire extinguisher right next to my bed. Feels great man

This will work better because of the OSB than because of the padding. I think this would be excellent for a mini-CNC mill.

>>1582269
> Did you just randomly switch from print ABS to printing PLA?
Nope. I turned on heating the hotend, pulled ABS once it was hot enough, and after reaching normal ABS temperature I pushed through some PLA and printed a heat tower starting at ABS temps.
I printed a couple of other things since then, all look OK to me. I also printed the model scaled 5x up, and it looks fine.
So I just gave up on PLA for that model. The thing is more wobbly when printed out of ABS, but it'll have to suffice.

What is the voron of delta printers?

planning on ordering an ender-3 since there's the aliexpress sale, but the store has a lot of different kits for sale and i don't know which to choose
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/3033013

What cad software should I use on linux?

>>1583498
Freecad is good enough.

>>1583498
Depends on what your current skill set is, and what you want to make. If you want to make primarily mechanical/non organic shaped things, and know some basic programming, openscad is amazing. But it's nothing like any other CAD program in existence.

>>1583171
They're made with Teflon, you know the same material they use for coating nonstick frying pans? You need a new tube or something, jeez.
>>1583180
You're insufferable. Oil all you want, fine. Just don't tell anyone else.

>>1582461
I'm printing 40mm/s PETG on an all stock Ender 3 @ 255°C
Something else is wrong with your setup

>>1583498
Srsly dualboot and use Fusion 360. Thats what I do.
Invest your time into better models, not figuring out shitty software.

>>1583575
Stop shilling openscad programming CAD to new people. It might has nieche for parametrized, pattern generated models but anything else just don't.

>>1583483
https://aliexpress.com/item/32829861835.html?trace=storeDetail2msiteDetail&spm=a2g0n.store_home.productList_5792511.0

>>1583464
>I just gave up on PLA for that model.
Share model. I want to try it in PLA

>>1583423
Same anon here, noone has anyhelp for me? Things I've tried:
Lowering initial layer height, increasing initial layer width, lowering initial layer speed.
Here's another pic

>>1583716
Ive never had any luck with masking tape, try hair spray or glue stick.

>>1583719
The tape is below the glass plate because of the shitty bowed glass, I've tried those things but the air pockets keep appearing. Could it be a moisture issue?

>>1583725
Well the glass being bowed could be the issue, go grab a pack of the 12x12 mirror tiles IKEA or Home Depot sells.

Also what are you using to stick the first layer to the glass? Ive only ever heard bare glass working if the bed is at 60+ degrees and even then its hit or miss.

>>1583726
Yeah the bowed glass is probably the issue, the weird thing is the air pockets appear at random spots instead of it just being an area that isn't sticking, also I run it at 60 degrees. Guess thats my only option left.

>>1583741
Honesly should have been your first guess, poor bed leveling can cause a whole host of issues. As I mentioned the 12x12 mirror tiles Home Depot/Lowes/Ikea sell are a popular choice for CR-10 build plates, however if you're willing to dish out the extra money I use a piece of borosilicate glass Lulzbot sells for the Taz6.

The bottom 3 layers took almost two hours. I really need to look up how to change layer height mid print.

>>1583795
If you have your slicer set to 3 solid bottom layers the first 3 layers are going to take forever regardless of their layer height. Only other thing you can do is set the first layer to .16 or some shit and every layer after tht .2 or higher but the first statement still stands.

>>1583807

Yeah, not so much for the solid bottom, but I could run the first half of this print at .3 and go finer for the parts that will actually be seen to save a good bit of time.

>>1579153
https://www.aliexpress.com/af/lazy-susan-bearing.html?SearchText=lazy+susan+bearing&d=y&initiative_id=AS_20190331064952&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs

Take your pick

>>1583795
That infill's also way too dense if you're looking to save time

>>1583677
bad link

>>1583760
Got a ikea mirror and shit is working perfectly, fuck that garbage plate that comes with the printer

>>1583678
> Share model. I want to try it in PLA
Here you go: https://ufile.io/i4qzn

>>1583716
Did you try other types of masking tapes?
I tried the yellow tape and it didn't work as good as the blue one and left the bed all sticky once removed.
There is a dozen of masking tape types, they vary in material and adhesive. E.g., when the yellow one gets wet, it swells, unlike the blue one. On the white one you can write with an ordinary marker. The orange sticks even to a dusty wall.
I get the best results with a cheap 'blue painters tape' cleaned with an alcohol to get rid of anti-glue layer on top of it.

>>1583940

Damn, I'm an hour into the second piece already.

Do I have to be an actual student for Fusion 360, or can I just say that I'm self teaching?

>>1584040
You don't even have to be a student; hobbyist is enough for a freebie license.

>>1584040
You don't even need to claim to be a student.
I think I picked non commercial hobby maker or something like this.

>>1584066
>>1584065
Fantastic. Thank you

>>1584005
>Here you go: https://ufile.io/i4qzn
I will try tomorrow evening

>>1584037

>>1581402
I bought mine for science but now it's essentially for guns and drug paraphernalia

>>1581427
I've gotten pretty good at tinker cad. I got a copy of solid works, but my system has been down for 8 months. Everyone has been cranking out glocks and the last thing I made was a pill filling device.

>>1581969
Nah, man. You can literally print the upgrades yourself. Whatever cant be printed can be bought cheap.

>>1584310
red baste and pilled.

>>1584340
> drug paraphernalia
What you're into?
I've printed a 250mm bong so far + an upgrade for my hookah.
I'll propably print one of these toothless grinders soon.

Ender 3 users, what printable mods do you guys recommend for the printer?

What are my options if im looking for a cubic meter of print space?
Im looking to do fitchecks and the parts cant be split
Can I just get any printer and simply extend parts?
If so where do I get a heated bed for abs?

>>1584439
I can recommend a fan guard for the mainboard housing and a off printer spool holder. Pic related.
An ext. spool holder will get the filament straight in the feeder so it doesn't carve a notch in the top. And it keeps the spool weight off the frame so it doesn't shake at jerks.

What also does wonders are these damper feets of thingyverse, also pic related.

All other mods are snakeoil imho. Especially fan guides etc.
Ender modding became a sport on it's own.

>>1584443
What do you wan't to print?
You'd need multiple spools of filament to make a print that uses such a build volume. And it would take days.
There are 500x500 printers like the Anycubic Chiron but thats already silly big.
Splitting models makes a lot of sense here.

If you're new to 3D printing get an Ender 3 first to play around and understand the matter before investing something you might regret.
There's racecar anon who uses a 1000x1000 printer but that machine has a 5-figure number on the price tag.

>>1584481
I will be printing commercial components for checking plumbing and electrical in pla and abs
Time and cost arent issies

>>1584481
Awesome, thanks anon. My printer arrives tomorrow, and I can't wait to mod the fuck out of it.

>>1584481
Are the damper feet better than using the stock foam that came in the package?

>All other mods are snakeoil imho. Especially fan guides etc.
Not true, I get slightly better overhangs using the Hero Me fanduct. But yeah all the other mods are personal preference. Some cable management solutions are neat though. I use pic related to take the braided cables off the bowden.

>>1584439
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920344
These are great if you want to keep the filament on top.

>>1584005
>>1584068
Printing rn. Looks good.
Thats a cool pattern, did you model it yourself?

>>1584499
>Are the damper feet better than using the stock foam that came in the package?
Nope:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473

>>1584481
>All other mods are snakeoil imho. Especially fan guides etc.


You're an idiot who has probably never printed anything other than that spool holder after you first got the printer. With any kind of extended use both of the fans fail on the ender 3 from sucking in microscopic plastic strands because of the bad fan placement. Also literally before and after prints on youtube videos prove the bullseye/ hero me ducts improve the maximum overhang angle if you had bothered to do any research at all. Custom fan guides are necessary to re-orient the fans and keep stray plastic out of them.

Cable management mods also prevent them from catching on things and a custom cable holder for the heated bed corrects the stock one catching on the extrusion sometimes. Your 3d printed PSU cover will also break and need to be replaced with a beefed up one. You're still running the plastic extruder too which is a failure waiting to happen.

>experiencelet giving people advice

>>1584599
>both of the fans fail on the ender 3 from sucking in microscopic plastic
Ooof.
Well mine are still running and I went through a couple of spools. If they get clogged for some reason I'll clean them. If not possible, I'll replace them. I don't see a reason to print guards around them to keep that from happening.
I also don't want to add weight to the print head.

>improve the maximum overhang angle if you had bothered to do any research at all
Sure you can improve overhangs by a little with autistic mods but my overhangs are very fine for me. I'm too lazy to get into that because a lot of people say it's not worth the hassle and the improvement is little.
I've done research on that and what I couldn't see was a scientific approach to determine non biased before/after changes.

If at all I'd approach a proper dual blower Ultimaker style cooling.

>Custom fan guides are necessary to re-orient the fans and keep stray plastic out of them.
Sorry to tell you that this never happened with mine.

>Cable management mods also prevent them from catching on things
Catching to what? Theres literally nothing in the way and I've done 260mm prints.
I've had one that plugs on the rear end of the left bottom rail but that obsoleted with the damping feet.

>Your 3d printed PSU cover will also break
I don't have a 3D printed PSU cover

>still running the plastic extruder too which is a failure waiting to happen.
What should fail on the plastic extruder? Except the teeth wearing out but thats not the plastics fail.
I actually pulled the spring to increase the clamping force and it still didn't snap.

As I said above Ender modding is a sport and has a raging community.

Can the CR-10 S5 print giant ABS parts? According to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkicF3rXrqs the heat bed temp is not so even.

I just bought a Prusa MK3, what filament should I buy ?

>>1584611
Yeah, like I said, experiencelet.

>>1584620
it comes with filament.

When making a production part is it better to print in the required colour and sand/smooth or print in white, spray paint in the required colour then sand/smooth?

>>1584005
>>1584068
>>1584594
Printed fine as expected.
0.15 lh; Das Filament PLA; all stock Ender 3
If you're in Europe I can send it to you.

>>1584625
Print in the required color.

ABS is the only FDM material that isn't miserable to sand/smooth/paint. Vaporsmoothing takes out most of the work from the process.

>>1584594
>Thats a cool pattern, did you model it yourself?
Nope, a friend modelled it as a part of an arts project. It's intended to be glued together, I just cut the model in half to be 3d-printer friendly.

>>1584626
That looks good! That is what I expected from PLA, especially once I printed the thing in ABS. And that's why I was kind of frustrated when I saw how my printer / my slicing skills failed.

> If you're in Europe I can send it to you.
Nah, eventually the project got an upgrade and the thing needed to be scaled up. Surprisingly it printed well in PLA once it was larger.

>>1584620
Only Prusament.

>>1584688
For real ? Why ?

>>1584715
The nozzle is anti-stick coated, but non-Prusa filaments will chemically bond with it and it'll ruin the treatment after a few hours. Prusament is also made with a special dye mixing technique that pretty much guarantees the filament won't clog.

>>1584727
Ooookay I didn't know that, thanks

>>1584766
Youre getting trolled.

>>1584611
Not to be off topic but man, I really really hate this image

>>1584780
That's what I thought but not quite sure

Good news, everybody

Now Marlin 2.0 compiles for this little piece of shit MCU

What is nice is that both USB connection and an ESP-01 can be used at the same time. What is terrible is that ESP-3D is terribly slow when uploading the g-code to the sd-card and it always fails, I don't know why.

Now what are my options for making a wifi-ready 3d printer controller, other than using a Raspberry Pi Zero?

>>1584861
Wrong pic, this is it

>>1584489
>time and cost aren't issues
Then just get your parts made by a company that does it professionally

>>1584620
Hatchbox PLA and ABS have been consistently great so far - silver, black, white, gold, and the pastel blue/greens work fine for me.

>>1584688
>>1584727
Dunno what this guy is on about, it's not even a funny trolling attempt

>>1584889
This reminds me to ask: Is Hatchbox actually good, recently? I was going to buy a spool last month but there's a bunch of user reviews on Amazon from the end of last year when people suddenly got bad rolls. Was that a once-off bad batch or did the quality just take a dive?

>>1584782
what about this one then?

>>1584599
>Cable management mods also prevent them from catching on things and a custom cable holder for the heated bed corrects the stock one catching on the extrusion sometimes.
All of this can literally be fixed with 3 zipties, no need to waste prints

Is it true that ABS parts have bad tolerance? Can anything be done about this?

>>1584599
>You're still running the plastic extruder too which is a failure waiting to happen
Why swap out something before fail?
There's no point in buying a chink printer just to replace the chinkness with proper parts. Run until crash, then fix what's wrong. Otherwise, by the time you're done you've put in a Lot of cash.
I remember the makerbot clones for 200$ where people exchanged Every part beside motors and Frame. The rods, extruder, spindle, bedframe, building plate, print surface, board, additional bearings, pulleys, hotend
That's more cash than the printer itself, Likely more than double.

>>1584994
>There's no point in buying a chink printer just to replace the chinkness with proper parts

Unless you're talking about shut pile the motors and rails you're fucking retarded. Buy a $180 Ender 3 and print out the parts to make it print like a Prusa is the entire point of these things being open source.

Anyone done tests on the strength of those nut inserts? Seems like they'd only be marginally stronger than molded threads and much weaker than modeling a hexagon and using a regular nut.

>>1585030
What material is that?

>>1585030
>regular nut
Yes, brass nuts are of course weaker than proper steel ones.
But if your force requirement causes the brass nut to fail you should propably step one thread size up.

I'd also expect that low end chink brass nuts inserts fail quicker than higher quality ones.

>>1585003
>Buy a $180 Ender 3 and print out the parts to make it print like a Prusa is the entire point of these things being open source.
Name a single 3D printed only Ender 3 mod that improves the part quality directly to reach """prusa quality"""

>>1585061
It's not the material of the nut, it's the shape of the outside. the inserts are usually just knurled and pushed in. The nut won't fail, it'll chew up the plastic around it and fall out.

Fucking hell.
Just had a print fail because marlin triggered thermal runaway halt on the bed even though the bed thermistor works fine. What gives?
It printed great till now.

>>1585030
That's my print. The inserts have been tested by a few youtubers, and they consistently outlast the plastic they are set in. That being said, most of the test were done with pla, where as my print is petg. In this case I'm not sure which would fail first.

>>1585048
eSun petg

>>1585064
The ones designed to be pushed in only aren't meant to take much axial force, and are generally used in hold down jigs.

Mine are heat set inserts and I undersize my holes considerably to ensure a full purchase. I kinda doubt I could pull one out by hand, but I've never tried.

>>1584343
>pill filling device
Kek, that's ok it's functional and you made it.
I was going to try and make a rocket nose cone

>>1585085
>the bed thermistor works fine
Does it really? Even if it is, it might be loose. Other than that maybe your heat bed is overheating. Marlin cares about your home.
>>1585064
If it fails they have self tapping nuts (they are called threaded inserts by the way) too, you could try those.
>>1585086
Is PETG as easy as they say it is to print? I am still deciding on what material to use for my fan. The PLA blades are really flimsy, 99% sure they are going to snap off under load and I am having problems keeping the heat of the motor away from it as well. Carbon is out of the running, apparently it gives you cancer and it's not that strong anyway, so it's out of ABS and PETG. Looking at your part I'm starting to like PETG but I need to clean off a lot of supports and sand it smooth for aerodynamics and I've heard bad things about finishing PETG.

New Thread: >>1585123

>>1585112
I have a .xyz file for generating a tangent ogive spline if you want it. I used it to make the hub cone on my fan. Saves you having to chew through all this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nose_cone_design#Tangent_ogive maths.

>>1585121
>it might be loose.
it's not, i checked the duckttape and it is holding on firmly
i managed to solve the problem though, it turned out to be pretty simple i just had to comment out the #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS line in the firmware and upload it

>>1585061
Someone has already told you the improved fan ducts are proven to work. There are numerous fan ducts made to incorporate auto bed leveling. There also a few prints to improve the Creality lines rigidity, the soft feet mods are also proven to improve certain quality concerns.

So there have a few, madlad.

>>1585121
>Is PETG as easy as they say it is to print?

Meh. Cant complain, though I'm still learning to use it so I cant sing its praises yet. I started at 260 and have been slowly bringing back my temps because its string hell. I will say that it seems very picky about bed temps. Was using 60c for my first prints and got perfect adhesion and super clean removal. Decided to try 70c and it warped like abs, no idea why though. Any z-hop will contribute to stringyness, but is needed to avoid the almost unpreventable nozzle boogers that fall in from time to time. A nozzle sock does help with this but it's not perfect.

Layer adhesion is godly and I have never managed to delaminate a print, even at 240c temps

I will warn you that this crap gets places you dont want it to. I went to pull my silicone sock off last night and it was packed with molten petg. Somehow it managed to slide up the nozzle and begin filling up the sock. Luckily it was the plated copper heatblock so clean up wasn't a nightmare.

Also, print slow! Hot or cold, you can not get this stuff to print fast. Strongly recommend wide first layer lines and 10mm/s max. I print 1mm lines at 0.4mm layer heights and no faster than 10mm/s. After the first layer you can kick it up to around 30mm/s but I'm still afraid to go faster.

>>1584898
I bought 9 different colour spools in the last 2 months (see above) and they've all been good. I think that was just a bad batch.

>>1585450
Nice. I'll be sure to try a roll then.

So I tried thyroid infill and it looks nothing like the preview. What's the issue? Printing esun petg at 235/60.

>>1586043
Gyroid* obviously

>>1586045
>thyroid infill
The thought had me kinda excited, to be honest