/diy/ - Do It Yourself

First for pew pew

>>1575303
IT'S NERF OR NOTHIIIIIIIING
captainslug's a real nigga tho

>>1575303
Have you ever considered getting into airsoft?

>>1575312
I swear this gets answered every other thread or so and it's a poor attempt at trolling at this point
>>1570648
>>1562369

>>1575303
Is that a normal caliburn or a rivalburn or what?

I put down a glass bed on my printer to get a better level, then put the build sheet back down over that. My issue is that I cant get it to print anything at all. Its level now, but nothing sticks. I have to put it so close layer 1 doesnt print to get anything to stick and it is crocked z wise. what did I mess up.

>>1575328
>put the build sheet back down
You... did what exactly? Put a PEI sheet on glass? Build surfaces are either/or, you don't combine them unless it's things like glass and hair spray or aluminum and painter's tape. Putting down glass isn't generally what people to do help level their bed, either, I'm not sure what the train of thought here was.

>>1575336
My aluminum bed has never been level and its always triggered me because I could never level it. Dipped hard in the center. First prints were hit or miss based on how much the bed has expanded. Glass is level and doesnt have this problem. Most logical solution. My printer came with a few sheets of build tak and Ive seen other people put them on their glass sheets. Either way it shouldn't mess anything up and certainly shouldnt work worse than it did before.

What cura setting should I mess with to fix pic related? I know about the "Outer Wall Wipe Distance", but I can't find anything similar for infill/top layers. Trying to tune my 1mm stainless steel nozzle for filled PLA printing and this is the only problem I'm having now.

>>1575354
>stainless steel
You've fallen for a meme. For the cost of a stainless steel nozzle you could have bought many brass nozzles, to such an extent that brass nozzles are actually more meters of filament per dollar in the end, even with metal filament.

>>1575355
I appreciate the input, but I don't care if stainless nozzles are memes, I just want to finish tuning this one so I can do some prints.

Anyone still got that sheet for how they bill people they print things for? I remember it had fields like material cost, modeling time, printer time, etc.

>>1575122
How is that even possible.
It's like the z-drive is slipping while at the same time the extruder is skipping.

>>1575301
>>1574265
what printer?

is possible to set somehow the xy offset for the bed leveling probe? since the probe is like 4 cm away from the nozzle, so it would be nice if this was possible for more precise leveling

>>1575326
It's the slightly shortened "carbine" version that only takes short darts and can use aftermarket Longshot springs.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3399789
>>1575312
No
>>1575433
The auto-leveling routine should be part of the Start Gcode block. Keep in mind that the sensors have their own sensing distance so that's part of the offset.

On my printer the Z offset can be reported through the console with the M851 command

>>1575433
Are your printer running Marlin? This is setting you change when you update the firmware. It's called probe offset.

>>1575477

wait are you slug

>80% complete
>filament runs out
Is there any way to save it?

>>1575477
I have a question about auto levelling. Does it do away with the Z limit switch completely?
I ask because obviously you'd be setting the Z offset. What's then to stop the hot end then crashing into the bed on a Z home or hitting the limit switch and stopping before it ever gets to the correct Z position?

Ultimately I'd like to use a CNC Z-puck to mesh level on an ideally rigid bed. Would I need a limit switch to set Z0 on a home move and then automatically apply a known offset? OR would I just have to use the puck each time and what's to stop it hitting it hard on the first touch off?

>>1575503
If you're near the printer when it runs out, yes. If you have a "filament splicer", use it. Otherwise, try to feed a new spool of filament into the extruder as the old one runs out. Your print should continue as if nothing happened.

>>1575503
Measure the exact height with calipers, try and guestimate the Z level as best you can. Reslice the print and have it start at your calculated Z level. I've only done it once long ago, but that's what I think I did.

>>1575507
I paused it but I realised it's Sunday and the 3D print shop is closed so I stopped the print completely.
>>1575509
It's there on the display, Z = 63.1. So I can set a gcode to start printing at Z = 63.1 in Sli3r? How do I do this? But the extruder checks the bed level before every print, the extruder would crash into any existing print still on the bed

>>1575497
>>1575477
Thanks i looked into the firmware and managed to find the setting.
It also appears that the positions for probing already include the offset of the probe and are not supposed to be nozzle positions. That must be why i was getting the compile errors.
Pretty cool that arduino actually checks this shit for you before you upload it to the printer. Otherwise the nozzle would probably ride right of the metal rail and onto the ground

Is a 3D printer too noisy for an apartment?

>likely a cr-10 variant

>>1575532
No. You cannot sleep in the same room as the printer, but printing during the day is no problem.
Also if you replace the shitty chink fans on your printer you will barely be able to hear it from a second room.

>>1575538
Okay thanks. I was more worried about people in other apartments.

>>1575538
Yeah, you can.
Give it some tennis ball feet and lower the speed.

>>1575521
>So I can set a gcode to start printing at Z = 63.1 in Sli3r? How do I do this?
Don't know, I use cura and this was a while ago.

>Z = 63.1
Is that where the print stopped automatically, or where you stopped it after noticing it was out of filament? If the former, just feed in new filament and resume the print. if the latter, how do you know it's at the same height that it stopped extruding?

>But the extruder checks the bed level before every print, the extruder would crash into any existing print still on the bed
Manually home each axis, home Z last (I hope you don't have anything printed under the gantry) and hope your Gcode goes to height before any other moves. Alternatively (assuming you haven't turned off the printer or moved an axis) you can manually edit the Gcode to not auto home on the Z axis and just print using a file that starts at the correct Z height.

>>1575549
Ahh fuck it I'll just write off this one and start again on Monday. Thanks anyway.

On a tangent but while I appreciate all the help I get here I don't really feel comfortable posting here anymore. it's because of all the Nazi shit spreading even to the blue boards. Like I was going to post a picture of the print and printer but I changed my mind about posting my kitchen on a website associated with white supremacy. I'm not being a snowflake, it's a serious concern if you plan to start a business, you can't have your products and premises associated with certain websites.

Sorry random, I just wanted to get that off my chest and say goodbye. Thanks for everyone's advice and good luck with all your projects.

>>1575532
There are ways to make it significantly quieter (t. CR-10S owner). But out of the box it'll be loud. Once you've put stepper dampers on (including the Z regardless of what people will say about accuracy, retractions are loud), squashball feet and new fans, it'll be quiet enough for your neighbours. It'll still be too loud to sleep in the same room as it though and if you want to let it run over night (for god's sake don't forget to reflash the firmware and enable thermal runaway protection) you'll want to get an enclosure for it (which is advisable anyway and reduces some of the noise). I still find the control box is noticeable (but not loud) and at some point I'll build a new box with PC power supply and larger quieter fans.

>>1575570
>I'm not being a snowflake
Yes you are.

>>1575574
He's a snowflake for not doxing himself?
Or for worrying that SJWs and journos will try to ruin his life over dumb shit?

>>1575538
>You cannot sleep in the same room as the printer
Depends on the person. I have a stock Ender 3 and can sleep just fine five metres away from it.

>>1575588
>doxing himself
With a photo of a kitchen? Literally all we know about him is that he 1) Is a pussy liberal 2) Owns a 3D printer 3) Lives someplace that has a kitchen. Looking at the subscribers to 3D printing on reddit there are at least 287 thousand people matching that description.

>>1575594
well not everyone here is a 90 yo deaf grandpa

>>1575597
How is he a liberal?
I wouldn't want my business associated with 4chan too.

Just look at all the shit THQ had to deal with just last month.
We live in a time where shitposting on an autistic imageboard is enough for journalistic outlets to decry you as a nazi.

>>1575588
>>1575629
Thank you. You can have your business ruined by SJWs literally just for posting here even if you didn't say anything bad.
>>1575597
Well it would have a picture of the particular part I am working on, someone could identify the project from that If I were to post another pic from my kitchen on a more mainstream site someone could identify that the same kitchen was posted on 4chan. You can't be too careful around neckbeards. Didn't some livestream project by Shia Labeouf get located and destroyed just by /pol/ watching planes flying overhead and matching them up with known flight paths?

>>1575532
I have a prusa mk3s running In My spare bedroom almost 24/7, roughly 10 ft from where I sleep. I keep a box fan on in that room with the printer and I have never once even heard the printer at day or night.

Hope that helps?

>>1575629
>thq
anon that was at 8 chan
also you are currently posting on 4channel not 4chan

>>1575697
I hope you are not printing ABS
>>1575705
>also you are currently posting on 4channel not 4chan
Implying journalists know or care about the difference

>>1575501
Yes
>>1575504
The Z offset on the printer I use (lulzbot mini) is just telling the printer the offset between the auto-leveling pads and the buildplate itself. It uses the nozzle to directly probe the corner pads, so they have to be clean in order to get electrical contact. On other printers it tells the offset from the probe sensing distance to the nozzle.

I had one or two printers that were always starting low no matter how clean the nozzle was, so I had to tweak the offset setting until they would print the first layer at the correct height.

>>1575381
You mean this invoice I made awhile back? I know it needs to be updated but I don't know if I have the original PDF file anymore. Plastic price is based off $29/kg rolls, 'hardware' is based off a metric machine screw kit I bought off ebay (has m2 through m5 screws and nuts), modeling and labor rates are just a number I pulled out of my ass and the printer operation cost is based off an expected life span of my printer before major repairs/upgrades are needed, which I just guessed 1000 hours of printing. I also added consumables to the printer operation cost (glue stick for bed adhesion etc). Feel free to copy it and modify it however you want.

>>1575532
>>1575538
The noise was fine for me, but the heated bed made my room so hot during the summer when I use to have my printer in my bedroom. Had to move it to the living room.

>>1575707
>implying

Fuck off kid

>>1575354
Any cura pros online to help me?

>>1575738
bullshit the bed doesn't make nearly enough heat to actually heat up a room

>>1575750
Any heater is enough to heat up a room - it's just that a 120W heated bed is probably not going to be heating a room significantly. Our printer has a ~1750W bed, you can bet your ass it'll heat up a small room in no time.

>>1575597
>with a photo of a kitchen? Literally all we know about him
Don't forget that anons somehow managed to track down Shia LaBeouf in Finland with no other info than the wood behind him.

Where can I buy that tiny fat crying cat

>>1575756
>1750W
use a gluestick you wasteful cuck, energy doesn't grow on trees

>>1575771
Anons wouldn't be chasing him down, liberals would be. They couldn't find the kremlin from red square.

>>1575773
You try heating a bed of about 3/4 square meters / 9 square feet with a dinky 120W heater, it's not going to heatup to 60 degrees in a couple hours. This thing takes 20-25 minutes to get to 60 as is, 100 takes even longer.

>>1575777
Then use a thick metal bed and print ourside in Africa where the bed gets easily hated to 80C in just the sun

>>1575779
>thick metal bed
Sure, just add even more thermal capacity.

I tried to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3429004 and it failed at ~90%, but before failing I noticed an insane amount of ringing. At a loss for what to do, I moved the printer off what later turns out to be a very flimsy table and on to a very sturdy sawhorse. Since I'm retrying off the same GCode I'll have a side by side comparison for everyone in roughly 2 hours.

On a side note, what's the best way to combat ringing?

>>1575723
>On other printers it tells the offset from the probe sensing distance to the nozzle.
So where does the limit switch and auto homing come into play? If the limit switch is set too low, what's to stop the nozzle crashing into the bed when it autohomes? If the switch is higher than the bed, can the nozzle even get to the bed or does it just push through the limit switch?

Why aren't YOU forcing your hot thot yellow gf to do tech reviews skimpily dressed to collect that easy dough from thirsty 3d printing virgins?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqwarSlm3bI

>>1575820
Go shill somewhere else you piece of shit.

>>1575820
because I'm scared of small chink skellingtons

>>1575807
>So where does the limit switch and auto homing come into play?
If the nozzle doesn't make electrical contact at all, but the z-limit switch trips, it basically tells the controller that the auto-leveling routine failed. It will try to clean the nozzle a second time, then do another leveling attempt before giving a auto-leveling failure error.

If I have a heated bed do I need hairspray for my glass.

>>1575827
Only if the filament doesn't stick on its own.

>>1575827
With PETG you do.

>>1575750
When it's running for 12h+, a high end desktop is in the same room and the door is closed it did. You think I'm just making up stories? Why?

>>1575796
Tighten belts, decrease print speed

Whats the most amount you are willing to pay for a 3D model?

>>1575820
She's crowdfunding even bigger implants.

>>1575844
$0. You want to sell something? Do the modeling, printing, and painting yourself and sell a finished product. Too many fags selling copy & paste anime models with shitty subdivisions as it is.

>>1575866
Im not selling anything.
Over the years i have seen models i wanted to have but i have no skill to model them.

>>1575848
fuck this gay earth

As promised, pictures comparing the two whistles. Some very strange things learned printing these:
Their imperfections are almost identical. Divots, ringing, overhangs, those layers that stick out slightly more than others - almost identical.

>>1575879
They both failed the same way - on the same layer. The Y axis jumps about 6mm, no explanation. I thought this was just my printer fucking up, but for it to happen the exact same way twice in a row makes me question my slicing software.

>>1575883
I forgot to mention, on all these pictures left is printed on a steady table, right is done on a wobbly table.
In spite of the failed print both of them have enough finished for the whistle to work, and this is where the stable platform really stands out. The left one sounds better and whistles louder with noticeably less effort. I'm not sure what sorcery is at work here. It had the opposite effect on the printer itself, quieting it down quite a bit.
>Slicer: Cura 4.0 beta 1
>Layer height: adaptive 1.2 to 3.2 mm
>Nozzle: 0.8mm
>supports: none
>Adhesion: brim
Going to try the same model in different software next.

>>1575825
Yes, but what about when printing? The bed leveling sensor is not always going to be there. Does the the printer just use the offset and push past the limit switch if the the limit switch activates too high and would it try an push past the offset during the auto home at the start of the print if it doesn't detect the limit switch?

I don't have your printer with fancy pads, I want to use a z axis puck with a known offset to mesh level. My concern is that a mechanical limit switch in a single fixed position below my X gantry is not able to take into account the variation in my bed height and will not activate before a bed crash in some areas but will activate before the nozzle gets close enough to the bed in others. I want to know if this will cause an issue or if the printer can simply ignore the switch during printing and push past Z0 to get to wherever the offset is.

>>1575303
Nice, what do you use to design your parts?
I really want to get into making my own stuff instead of relying on thingiverse but I need a better way to learn.
Do you know of any good tutorials that build on themselves by starting with the basics and then putting them together?

tl;dr
Looking for babby's first design class.

>>1575938
http://www.laort.edu/course/computer-aided-drafting-and-design/

>>1575949
Thanks but I meant something that was on YouTube etc and was free. I definitely want to take a class at my local community college but I'm not ready for that yet (recovering from back surgery).

>>1575938
If you want to make parts, fusion 360. If you want to make models, blender. Both are free and both have tons of community support. There are a plethora of tutorial videos on youtube. I enjoy warching the videos on the official autodesk channel.

>hear popping noises from the printer
"it's probably just my first ever moist filament, I'll do that oven thing later"
>get up and almost slip on a pile of cable ties
So the vibration of my printer was apparently making cable ties drop out of a bag on the shelf beneath the printer one by one.

>>1575301
newb to 3d printing going to buy creality ender 3.

Is printing ABS on the thing really difficult without mods? Seems people are saying you need a cover to get up to temp or other workarounds.

>>1576067
For any printer to print ABS, you need a heated bed and draft shields to prevent cooler air hitting the print while it's printing. Other than that, ABS really isn't anything special. It's much better than PLA in almost all applications imo, and it's the only plastic I really print with.

>>1576067
You need an enclosure. Unless you want to go ABS for things like acetone welding/smoothing, you might prefer PETG. It prints as easily as PLA but is much stronger. It's sort of a midway point between PLA and ABS, I use it almost exclusively nowadays.

>Slice a print in Cura
>Take 7 hours 50 minutes
>Machine is running for 9 hours now
>Only at 73%
What in the name of fuck is going on here?

>>1575848
Source? I want to donate.

>>1575538
I sleep with my printer a few feet from my bed, funny enough I actually cant sleep without some sort of noise, but it probably helps that I have a small fan on next to my bed 365 nights a year as well.

I ran two thin wires from the bed power in the printer, since i only wanted to use them to trigger a relay, but they somehow got shorted and it was scary as fuck.
When the bed turned on those wires immediately started twisting like snakes and smoking like crazy i shut off the power like 1 second later, yet they were completely melted, crazy.

>>1576212
So what you're telling me you're an idiot and didn't check the voltage limitations of the wire?

>>1576213
>voltage limitations
>voltage
looks like i'm not the only idiot here, good to know

also i said they were for a relay you dipstick

>>1576214
Electrical components are rated for a maximum voltage, you ran too many volts through the wire and it smoked. You should send your printer back before you burn your house down.

>>1576214
>>1576215
Fair enough anon, I'm thinking of current.

You still didn't check the limitations of the wire and thus need to get rid of the printer.

>>1576218
Do you not know what a short is?
The wire was rated for 10 times higher amperage than what i needed.

>>1576220
How the fuck you manage to get a short with only 2 wires? Not double check your soldering or properly insulate it? It takes an idiot to not double check your soldering when dealing with amperage that can kill you anon.

>>1576223
>with amperage that can kill you anon.
Jesus Christ. You obviously have no idea of electricity works. We are done here.

>>1576224
One of us obviously has no idea and its definitely not me, Ive never smoked a wire. Anything over 10 milliamps can stop your heart, youre fucking with the raw 30 coming from the power supply.

Absolute imbecile aint'cha?

Is there a table for optimal print settings for different nozzle diameters?

I switch nozzle diameters and its annoying to have to figure it out fresh each time. I jave a couple written down, but have diameters i havent used yet .2mm and Id like to know recommended settings before I start with those.

>>1576220
>amperage
You mean current?

>>1576223
It's quite simple you short then together.
Now a short with only one wire, or no wires at all would be impressive
>>1576226
Car battery can supply hundreds of amps but its perfectly safe to touch, just don't short it out!!

>>1576301
"Amperage" is a word used to refer to the amount of electric current in situations where it is typically quantified in amperes. Much like how "voltage" is a word used to refer to the amount of electric potential in situations where it is typically quantified in volts.

>>1576324
No.
Current.

>>1576304
Yes but car batteries only operate at 12 volts, whereas the power supply on a 3d printer is at 120-220. High amps without enough voltage to push the electrons just hurts, high voltage with adequate amperage basically gives you a heart attack.

My Ender 3 Pro is near.

>>1576333
> heated bed
> 220V
Hmmmm....
>amperage
Ok I see you are a brainlet never mind

>>1576344
Yes amperage, it is a measure of amperes. Current is measured in amps, high current can kill you. Low voltage with high amps hurts, high voltage with anything above 10 milliamps can kill you. It takes anywhere above 70 volts or so to push deadly current through the human bodies resistance. Any fucking questions or are you retards done fuckwit posting?

Although you are correct I did not think about the fact that the heated bed probably only operates at 24 volts or so.

>>1576348
> current is the measure of amps
You said it yourself so why use made up words?
You are wasting precious minuteage arguing about this for no reason. I hope we can increase the milesperhourage of this conversation before my dinner loses all of its degreescentigradeage.
>70 volts or so
Yes this is called ' extra low voltage' and defined by various regulatory bodies as a low risk of dangerous shock.
> beds are elv
Why you mad then? Lol.

>>1576351
Do... Do you not think amperage is a word?

You're far more retarded than I even thought.

>>1576353
It's an aidsism
A word made up and used by people with AIDS. We already have a word for current. It's 'current'.
Keep going though,I know you're just salty because you think 3D printers run directly from mains without dc adapter.

>>1576360
Current is the flow of electrons, amperage is the measurement of current in amps. At this point Im certain you're trolling, no one is dull enough to disregard a well defined word. But, by the way, minutage is a word too, ye concentrated ball of downs.

>>1575883
>>1575889
>question my slicing software
>Cura beta
Playing with betas is fun but in 3D printing just don't use betas. Their failures cost you money and nerves.

>adaptive layer height
Meh, don't use this if you're not absolutely sure what you're doing.
Print behaviour varies greately between layer heights.

>different software next
Use a stable release of cura and turn off adaptive layer height

>>1576024
Both but for now parts. Thanks.
>>1576065
Kek

>>1575889
>1.2 to 3.2mm layer height
>On a 0.8mm nozzle
Upper limit for layer height is 80% of your nozzle size, so 0.64mm. 1.2 is way too big, nevermind 3.2. However, your problem is in the Y axis which means it's skipping steps at that exact point or the G-code is broken. Reslice on a different Y bed position and it'll probably be fine.

>>1576105
>You need an enclosure.
What is this, amateur hour? Crank up your heated bed to 90-100 degrees and it's usually fine. Print a bit slower than usual, no fans, and use plenty of adhesive/hairspray/acetone-ABS slurry to keep it planted.

>>1576269
For print speeds, nothing changes. The limits of your frame and motors are the same limits since the intertia doesn't really change.
Then you get to layer height. At a maximum, this should be 75-80% of your nozzle diameter, so 0.15mm for a 0.2mm nozzle. Suppose you screw in a 1.2mm nozzle and use that sweet 0.96 layer height, you're probably running into extrusion limits though: either hotend capacity or your extruder starts slipping. Use that failure point to calculate the extrusion volume: Layer height times nozzle diameter times print speed equals extrusion volume in mm3/sec. What you can then do to minimise ringing is simple: use the biggest nozzle possible, with a relatively big layer height and then pick a print speed that . This makes your prints chunky and aesthetic in my opinion, for example, you can make a printer do 10mm3/s with either 100mm/s print speed, 0.5mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height, or you could do the same print with 25mm/s print speed, 0.8mm nozzle and 0.5mm layer height. 100mm/s is going to cause ringing/artifacts, 0.5mm layer height is not suitable for some models because muh aesthetic.

>>1576362
>Playing with betas is fun but in 3D printing just don't use betas.
Nigga I've used beta Ultimakers, it's fine if you know what you're doing. 3D-printing isn't about preventing failure rate, it's about embracing the failure rate.

I have been spray painting some of my prints and now my head hurts, is that normal when using spray paints?

>>1576382
>I have been using volatile chemicals in an enclosed space
>how much cancer do I have

>>1576361
Current is the rate of flow of electric charge past a point.
Ampere or 'amp' is the unit of measure.
Amperage is what an idiot says when he means current.

>>1576361
>minutage is a word too
Some shit to do with tv
So you can't just take a unit of measure , suffix age to it and use it as the related property. That worked out quite badly for your argument, there is no pattern to this etymology

>>1576391
>So you can't just take a unit of measure
It's what you burgers did with voltage.
Every other language calls it something like "tension" or "potential".

>>1576395
Fuck off I'm no burger.

>>1576400
britcuck whatever

>>1576395
I never used "tension" about voltage in my native language.
IDK, it confuses people.
Same with current. I call it amperage.

>>1576382
Yes, spray some more, and will have can trip you had never experienced.

>>1576409
lol you're full of shit
when is current or tension not clear from the context?

"this device is needs a lot of current" - clearly he must be talking about river currents!

>>1576377
>3D-printing isn't about preventing failure rate, it's about embracing the failure rate.
How bored can one be? I don't want to waste my time, I want good prints

>>1576409
'Amperage' is probably fine for hobbyists like vapers and audiophiles but you will get some real funny looks if you used it in a professional setting.

>>1576386
>current is the flow of electric charge past a point
>look mommy I made something up

>>1576421
It is a solidly defined word for the measurement of current in amperes. Current is defined in every fucking book as the flow of electrical charge. Current is measured in amperes, by instruments that read amperage. You morons will argue about fucking anything regardless of whether you know jack shit or not. Give it the fuck up, you are blatantly wrong, go back to talking about your garbage print quality and why you cant solve it.

>>1576199
Thats normal bud, always expect like a 25-50% time increase

>>1576433
>measurement of current in amperes.
How else would you measure current?
Jokes on you I'm not a 3dpd just passing through.
Why don't you go make up some more dumb sounding words instead of trying to figure me out and failing.

>>1576433
>Current is defined in every fucking book as the flow of electrical charge.
Horowitz and Hill in "The art of electronics" (pick pretty much any sylabus you like) define it as this >>1576386
But it also says "referring to current as amperage is strictly bush league"
I don't know what that means but I suspect its bad.

>>1576415
>I don't want to waste my time, I want good prints
Once you stop worrying about it and get gud, the failure rate decreases. Embrace the failure rate.

>>1576437
Doesn't work that way on any of the other machines I've ever used (UM, Prusa, Duet). Fucking chinkshit.

yay, the inductive probe is working on only 5v so i could just plug it in and be done with it
although it's surprising that a thicc metal plate triggers detection at 1mm and .1mm aluminium tape at 4mm

>>1576376
Sorry anon, I meant 0.12 to 0.32mm layer height. 3.2mm would never work at all.

>>1576455
Alright, all we are missing now is a cool ass fan grill..oh wait no were not
>b-but anon thats edgy
my 10/10 gf sure doesn't seem to think so

I have a product idea I want to work on, but I don't know anything about 3d printing. It's a functional thing not a piece of art, so I don't think I want to use blender. Is there good software that will tell me if all the pieces fit together and move the way I expect?

>>1576469
>Punisher skull
That's not edgy, that's pleb. That's like stucking a pissing Calvin sticker on your truck.

>>1576475
Pleb thing is giving a shit about what society says is pleb.
I simply like the skull model so i am using going to use it.
I am so alpha it turns me on sometimes.

>>1576455
no bully but inductive probes have massive hysteresis so they're not what you want for measurements sub 0.1mm.
Also why did you take that fat ass one. There are ones 1/10 of the size of that one doing the same thing.

>>1576481
i'm not a probe expert, i just wanted one that has large measuring distance so it would work through a mirror print plate and this one does and it works great.
Also lots of people use and recommend inductive probes so they can't be that bad. Not to mention that all the original end stops on my printer are inductive stops and i had exactly zero problems with them so far, so i have no fear this one will perform great.

>>1576481
I have one the same size that I bought. They're rated for 8mm from iron, or ~4mm from aluminum. Add the thickness of a glass bed between the probe and bed plate and it's a reasonable option.

>>1576469
>>1576475
>Punisher skull
It's like signing up for an online shooter and picking "Master of Disaster" as nick

what are some good PLA colors to make upgrade pieces for my Ender once I got her at home?

>>1576522
careful, you are treading dangerously close to the cyber bullying line

>>1576377
Thank you that is very helpful

>>1576535
I wonder why heat beds have that do not touch warning on them, i burn myself on them all the time and i never had a problem

This is really cool.
Camera detects if your print gets fucks up and stops the print instead of making a platic ball on the nozzle and burning your house down.
https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/thespaghettidetective_beta/?utm_medium=announcements&utm_source=octoprint&utm_content=1.3.10

>>1575301

I'm looking for an enclosed printer under $500 with the largest build volume I can get for that price. I know about the CReality 3D 10S but it's not enclosed. I have a cat who fucks with prints in progress, it has to be enclosed.

>>1576546
Ender 3 plus an enclosure, /diy/ your own enclosure if you want to fit a CR-10.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052378

>>1576548

That "enclosure" would not keep a cat's paws out. There's no acrylic.

>>1576554
News just in: acrylic is see-through, and doesn't show up on pictures very well. Try looking again.

>>1576199
https://www.subscribestar.com/naomi-wu

>>1576558
A BMW engineer and a Morris engineer meet in a pub and their discussion slides onto the subject of work. "At BMW, when we make a car, we put a cat in it and fill the factory with poison gas overnight. In the morning, if the cat is still alive, we know the car is built right.". The Morris engineer says "Aye, at Morris we do t'same. We stick a cat in the car and leave it in the factory overnight. In morning, if the cat's still in there, we know the car's built right."

>>1576535
Black, obviously.

>>1575889
>>1575883
>>1575879

I wanted to shit on you, but...

>>1576585
I can't speak for you, but I solved the problem I posted yesterday by not using adaptive layers and swapping the 0.8mm nozzle for a stock 0.4mm one. I've been having great prints at 0.16mm layer height and 45mm/s speed since that one change. You're clearly not on an Ender 3 so YMMV.

It's like everything is designed around 0.4mm nozzles. Slicers were made for it, models were modeled for it, and printers were designed around it. I don't think I'll be changing back to 0.8 for now, but those thick walls did good things for infill.

>>1576566
Somebody explain this joke to me.

>>1576585
My issue was a simple one; just bed adhesion Trying again now, we'll see how it comes out overnight. I wish the whistle sound was a bit deeper though

>>1576596
BMW tests their cars for gaps large enough to let air through, Morris tests them for if cats can squeeze out.

>>1576597
Likewise. Turned the travel speed down too, 120mm/sec freaks me out to watch. It'll finish around midnight and I'm not sticking around for that.

>>1576554
I got bad news bud, 3d printing has a minimum IQ limit and I think you might not cut it

>>1576199
Cura always overshoots for me, for both estimated material cost and print time.

>>1576475

>>1576690

>>1576690
Kek

Wish me luck guys. This is the largest print ill have ever done (surface wise)

I have a heated glass bed, should I put one of those build plate sheets on it.

>>1576690
BOOM

>>1575848
>she

Wanting to scan a controller shell for 3d printing and moldmaking. Translucent plastic, has aging rubber grips, thus the project.

What would be the best way of doing this non-destructively?

>>1576773
If it's a common one you can just google a 3D model of it. You can find 3D models of most console controllers online.

>>1576562
If I take part in crowdfunding her bodytuning, I want to try the body afterwards.

How precise is the bed leveling benis?
Seems pretty steep shelling $50 for something that a $4 probe can do just as well, so it would have to be way more precise to be worth it

>>1576734

>>1575337
use a glue stick. people say its a crutch, but people are also retarded. what they dont understand is that the ender tempered glass bed they are using actually has a coating that helps stuff stick and once that coating wears off they are better off flipping it over and using a glue stick.

>>1576813
Ender 3 has kits with the probe and mounting hardware and even some electronics for flashing the firmware for about $5 less.
It's accurate, but don't pay $50 for a $10 meme probe. There are $15 knockoffs that work too. Look on banggood and aliexpress.

>>1576838
>n some electronics for flashing the firmware f
what do you mean? i thought you just enable it in marlin

Good morning Vietna- /3dpg/!
This morning I woke up and checked attempt #3 of >>1575796. This is fucking incredible. No ringing, no stringing, overhangs are great, beautiful geometry, & plays wonderfully. If all my prints came out like this I would be very happy.
>0.4mm nozzle
>0.16mm layer height
>35mm/sec speed
>80mm/sec travel speed
>8mm brim:, no supports
>bridging settings enabled
>coasting enabled
Pic 1 of 3.

>>1576839
Before an Ender 3 can have the firmware updated a bootloader must be installed. It's a pain but only needs to happen once. You attach an Arduino to the mainboard and do some hacky stuff. There are videos of it on youtube. It's not hard, just time consuming. New Ender 3s may be different.

Also whistle: 2 of 3.

3 of 3.
Another anon was printing one too. I hope his came out this well.

>>1576842
well that probably doesn't concern me since i do not use an ender printer, i have an mks gen L 1 board and i can flash marlin over usb from my computer

>>1575883
>The Y axis jumps about 6mm, no explanation.
Are you putting the gcode onto an SD card? If so, that card is corrupted and needs to be reformatted. Or better yet replaced.

If you run G29 to automatically level the bed, does the printer remember that, or do you have to run it before each print?

>>1576913
Unless you save it to the EEPROM with M500 it will forget it when you turn it off.

>>1576915
Welp, that explains all the nozzle skids on the bed.

>>1576918
God i'm retarded. I set the Z offset for the probe too high, so the nozzle was too high above the bed, so i used the screws on the bed to lift it by 1mm and it was still too high when printing and i repeated this two more times before i realized that the printer will just keep lifting the nozzle to be exactly the same distance from the bed each time.

Well I think I've learned a valuable lesson: always remove the supports before you cure the model

>>1576934
Also hero forge models are super non optimized

>>1576783
Madcatz, so no.

I recently found out about carbon fibre filament. Is it legit or a meme? Can it be printed easilywith the Prusa i3? is it safe? Fibres don't escape during heating do they?

>>1576734
How big is that thing?

>>1576999
It's legit with true all metal hotends, most heatsyncs have a bit of PTFE that will melt when you get hot enough to melt CF properly
It's also an also pain in the ass to get the settings right

>>1576940
How much ml is that? How much dollarydoos did you waste.
>>1576999
>>1577000
Double checked

Rate my spice shaker design.
It upcycles smoothie bottles, has one handend thumb operation and a 3D printed spring.

Still a prototype but currently printing the hopefully final iteration.

>>1577008
3dprintsarentfoodsafe/10
But seriously though it's a really good design
>>1577006
I honestly have no idea, somewhere around 2ish dollars I think
I got too excited and started printing without thinking about any of that and 3 weeks into having the photon I'm put of the sample green and the 1L of blue I bought to go with it and I only have one model I kept for myself (which is actually at my DMs house because I didnt want the trouble of carrying it around), with my next bottle I'm going to do the math on my prints

>>1576999
>Is it legit or a meme?
Everything I've printed with it was excessively brittle. The only parts I printed with it that were nice could have just as easily been printed in ABS and then sanded to get the same kind of surface finish.

CF Filament is dumb, wears out nozzles, and isn't worth using. You trade ductility for marginally better tensile strength.

>>1577012
Natural (uncolored) PETG is not as bad, although it can pick up shit from inside the hotend.

>>1577012
Wow thats way less than I expected, I always see resin being expensive as fuck

Replictor dual clone anon here,
im done with this piece of shit, Shaft warped and Pulleys fucked

The Ender 3 is on a sale for 160€ right now, Is this thing a Lemon like the Replicator clones or does it work out of the box, without having to spend 150$ to remove the chinkness?
im only interested in PETG prints

>>1577000
It's a 12 inch bed. Think the largest dimension is about 265mm side to side

>>1576690
10/10 rekt

>>1576537
#bebest

>>1576541
Neat. I have a fear of ruining my printer/burning the house down so I can never leave my machine running if I'm not home.
>>1576566
Seems legit. Germans love their poison gas.

>>1576844
>printing a 白笛 in anything but 白
>shiggy

glad yours worked out anon

Anyone here do props?

>>1577072
Ender 3
>It can do good prints out of the box.
>Really good prints.
>You'll have to deal with a little chinkness, but not a lot
>This is more about the effort in putting it together and calibrating it than buying parts.
>Thousands of printable "upgrades" exist. Most are useless
>Some are essential, like a cover to keep plastic scrap off the mainboard and a filament guide to keep filament from grinding away the extruder assembly
>Beware of knockoffs. Make sure it's a legitimate one from Creality or the chinkness goes up a lot.
Hard to do wrong for the cost of them nowadays.

>>1577182
how do you know it's a legitimate one from creality?

>>1576585
wew

>>1577198
It's in a box marked Creality Shenzhen.

>>1577181
That's one of my end goals. I want to do things more towards legit replicas rather than con worthy foam stuff, and printing would obviously add to the tool set. I will say that I'm not someone who thinks you have to literally print everything. It's a lot quicker to handle simple shapes with shopwork and delicate the complex details to the printer.

I bought my printer in 2014 and have been off and on with it, mostly do to funding being diverted to growing my woodworking tool set.
>>1576734 is the first large print I've attempted confidently. Just got off work so going to check it now.

>>1577205
uhhh I don't see the box until when it arrives

>>1577206
And boom. A few strings but overall still good. Now to mount the hardware

>>1577206
3D modeling and printing is so easy and precise that I end up printing everything anyway. I did my time back in the pepakura days, this is my reward.
The best part is that I can rip models straight out of games, freshen them up a bit in Blender, and get a 1:1 copy

Cura 4.0 y/n

So what do normies think about 3d printing nowadays? I know a year or two ago 3d printing was all over the news, but I really haven't heard anything about it lately.

>>1576934
>>1576940
Some flush cutters and a sharp blade will do wonders. Comes off real easy pre-cure; post-cure you can get rid of the nubs, if any, but trimming supports is a nightmare as you can tell

Heroforge models are nice but boy are they a pain in the ass to support, de-support, and paint. Wish they let you split a model from its base.

>>1577181
I'm about to start, got a couple of months before a con to learn how to print large pieces + attach them + finish them. I figure I know enough to do it all well enough, hopefully.

>>1577239
The normies realised it wasn't like star trek and lost interest

>>1577037
With prime, a 1L bottle of anycubic brand resin is $56 on Amazon, if you take the time to hollow the prints and optimize the supports it's really not that much more expensive than FDM

Got the cr-10s
Am I supposed to have so many problems with it? I managed to get the test print to work fine, but I tried another being and it was printing with the corner as the origin even though I made sure it wasn't in cura

>>1577248
You're a class A idiot. The corner should be the origin in a CR10, origin at center is only for delta-style printers. Cartesian uses 0,0 at the lower left corner. Turn the setting in Cura off and your printer will work.

>>1577241
>watch YouTube videos on how other people make big props - Tested and Punished Props come to mind >cut the models in your 3D program, add any kind of registration between cut faces that you can
>use ABS if you can, it's far easier to sand
>print your models efficiently with as little support as possible
>use the strongest adhesive you have available to you to put pieces together - ABS slurry with ABS prints, JB Weld, etc
>use metal hardware where possible, even if it's just makeshift pins in adjoining faces
>fiberglass reinforcement is a good idea for anything you can fit it inside of
>fill seams with Bondo, spot putty, Green Stuff, or my favorite, super glue gel + Zip Kicker
>sand and file for at least 100 years
>filler/high-build primer is your best friend
>XTC3D/epoxy resin topcoat is a meme but used wisely it can save some time on broad areas, it can also add a degree of strength
>print, sand and paint detailed parts separately; attach them later
>layers and textures take your props (and costumes) to the next level
>don't rely on 3D printing for every part of your prop, using bought or found materials can save time and look more convincing

These are all the tricks I can think of that I use whenever I print something big.

I got proper diffusing sheet for the lights, this is going to turn out pretty well. It's a shame I'm stuck waiting here for the rest of the parts to come from China though. I've been getting packages about once a day for the last four days but only have about 1/4 of the parts I ordered

>>1577212
And final product. Still need to do the x and y axis and cut the aluminum for the new bed.

>>1577254
Thanks mate, that sounds like a lot of good tips. I'm planning on magnetizing some of the parts so it's collapsible, so I'll see how that turns out and will probably post it here.

>>1576562
The fuck? I donated some money but the meter didn't move. Is this just some kind of kickstarter scam?

I've been printing curve templates to use on my router table, but I'd like to be able to snap multiple pieces together end to end precisely so I can easily cut compound curves. Any suggestions?
>>1577285
Ah great, one more thing to order. Those sweet
threaded inserts.

>>1575820
Dumb bimbo was outted years ago to just be a front her boyfriend uses to get views. He does all the work, she just flaunts her tits. Despise this miserable slut.

>>1577331
Magnets? Add 2-3 per segment, add a spacer so they don't slam against each other, use.

>>1576577
orange is better. Just got it running for the first time today, spent 3 hours assembling it last night making sure everything was perfect. it's running like a charm right now. Printing out the dog file they provided.

>>1577331
Puzzle-piece contours on each end. Whatever size/shape you prefer, but make sure it has rotational symmetry so every end will fit every other end without needing to flip the pieces.

>>1577331
>threaded inserts.
why? I just make my holes same diameter as the screw and then just screw it in, it fits perfectly and holds like glued

>>1577008
NEVER eat anything that came in contact with something 3d printed
Or enjoy your heavy metal poisoning and septicemia dipshit.
And yes that applies to dry foodstuffs as well.

>>1577354
Nice, I'll have to play around with that.

>>1577361
If you're printing something that will be taken apart often, they keep the threads from stripping out after time.

>>1577362
Does that apply to the 3D printed utensil drainers?

>>1577012
>3dprintsarentfoodsafe/10
>heavy metal poisoning and septicemia
Is this some kind of meme joke?
If you make a mug for hot beverages ok but a spice shaker? Come the fuck on paranoiatards.

>>1577376
>>1577362
forgot 2nd quote

>>1577373
yes, the water will cause bacteria growth in the creases so you will pull your utensils out covered in ebola

>>1575844
$0

>>1575820
>hot

>>1577379
Cant I just bleach it every so often?

>>1575844
Considering there are alot of amazing models for free, I think its pure bullshit anyone would try and charge for a design.

>>1577384
the bleach will never get deep enough into the creases
the only way is to cover the print in some waterproof coating so the bacteria have nowhere to crawl into when you are washing it

>>1577387
Its a fucking liquid? Anywhere bacteria and water can get bleach can get, especially with a brush?

>>1577388
Its a fucking liquid? Anywhere bacteria and water can get bleach can get, especially with a brush?

>>1577392
enjoy your cholera kiddo

>>1577396
You act like bacteria actively take cover from cleansers. Id bet my left 3rd toe some foaming scrubbing bubbles would clean the fuck out of 3D prints.

>>1577399
then do it.
i'm not going to stop you

>>1577399
Spores are a lot smaller than the spaces water will flow into (surface tension) if the material is hydrophobic. Ozone could burn them out, but it breaks down most plastics too. Autoclaving would kill everything, and a bath of supercritical carbon dioxide could wash out the tiny spaces, but that's not very practical for home use.

>>1577406
Thats what the foaming cleaners are for though? Forcible clean. Whatever, what should I cover my prints in, salad bowl sealant?

>>1577376
Agreed, making a 3D printed coffee mug is all sorts of bad idea, but I wouldn't think twice about a spice shaker lid. You get more exposure to heavy metals walking down a busy road and breathing the exhaust.

>>1577245
But you can print food now.

Does anyone have any experience with the AC Chiron?
The massive build plate seems nice but excessive and watching videos on it it seems like it's about as well put together as the photon, but a lot of the consumer reviews are fairly negative

I have lots of plastic burned on my nozzle since when the print starts it sometimes catches on it, how do i clean it off?

>>1577483
I've bought one a couple weeks ago. Exclusively printing ABS with it since that's all I've got for now, managed to get it cheaply and it does work fine.
The massive build plate is great since I rarely have to slice up models to fit, I can use much eaiser orientations than on the UM2's I'm used to. It's fairly well put together, but has typical chinkshit QC control issues that are common in this segment. To be honest, I wouldn't trust a CR-10 S4 to do any better. Autoleveling sucks on this, so I'm back to manual leveling and it works perfectly. A part of the Ultrabase came off with my latest print, I got into contact with them, they got back to me within a day and they've sent a new buildplate - I was expecting the typical ''go fuck yourself'' or ghosting you get from typical Aliexpress sellers. YMMV, but I'm pleasantly surprised to see a Chinese seller actually stand by their product.
The interface is clumsy at best, and it's clearly translated Chinese. Don't worry, it works for the most part and assembly is easy. Print quality is par for the course, if I get my settings right it's on par with my mate's Ender 3.
Overall, 7/10 would buy again. Good value, and I don't see any better printer with this volume at this pricepoint.

>>1577500
https://reprap.world/products/supplies_tools/tools/hot_end_cleaning_brush_copper/

>>1577182
ok, bought together with a legit Capricorn tube (cheap)
will report back in two weeks
>>1577500
im not an expert on this, but if molten plastic bends up on your nozzle that indicates dirt inside.
when up to temperature, you can remove the majority with a piece of paper or cardboard

>>1577511
Anycubic's customer relations is fucking golden, especially if you buy directly from them
My resin vat had a bunch of small dings and scratches on one side so I sent them an email about it and they actually shipped me a whole new vat before they even replied to ask for pictures of the damage

How long can you leave the printer preheated for printing with pla, before the hotend is dun goofd?

I need to make a big print in one piece. I've been looking at the CR-10 S5. Has anyone got experience with that printer? Can I print nylon on the stock bed?

>>1577483
Hmm or maybe I should get this

>>1577511
who was your seller?

>>1577533
I had a malfunctioning driver and Anycubic sent a spare set FOC. Also, my mate received a new power supply. All just by opening a ticket and explaining the situation. Top notch customer service!

>>1577569
Aliexpress

>>1577561
Main problem there is crystallisation/gunk buildup right in your nozzle. Your can manually push the filament through in most cases and that'll clear the jam right at the start of printing. I've never seen a preheat jam within an hour in such a bad way I couldn't clear it that way.

>>1577564
Designer I work with owns seven. They are easily the best value large volume 3D-printer, but they still have downsides, mainly the fact that it's just another Ender style FDM machine made at a pricepoint. Nozzle is tiny, replace that ASAP to fill the buildvolume up quicker. Nylon is probably going to be extremely challenging given the lack of an enclosure, although the hotend/bed specs suggest it should be possible. Warp city though.

Hey guys, test machine/racecar anon here again. We finally got our test sample for the three point bending test, and it worked beautiful.
>500*275*40mm test panel
>400mm test span
>Carbon-fibre filled nylon filament you poor people can't afford (200USD/kg)
>Manually sliced, printed standing up
>15% grid infill
>4mm thick infill & sidewall
>0.8mm nozzle
>0.2mm layer height
>2.2kg of filament
>31000N
>E-mod of 5.6 GPa as tested, we needed at least 5.0
Ladies and gentlemen, we're going to be printing ourselves a racecar.

>>1577615
3.1 tons on the middle of that test panel?
Holy shit thats two cars.
It looks tough af.

>>1577615
what printing temp?

>>1577624
To give you a full perspective: in order for it to pass FSAE standards, this test panel has to be as strong as three steel tubes, 25mm OD and 1.2mm wall thickness. FSAE racecars are generally in the 300kg range, which means you could stack ten of them on here and it still would not break.

>>1577627
Can't tell, somewhere between 280 and 300.

>>1577615
>Carbon-fibre filled nylon filament you poor people can't afford (200USD/kg)
Which one? Brand, CF % ?
>Manually sliced
What do you mean by that? Did you write g-code by hand?
>we're going to be printing ourselves a racecar.
Keep us posted. Are you the guy with big delta printer at university, but is gonna use BAAM or similar big ass 3d printer?

>>1577577
I want to print carbon fibre infused nylon so that won't warp right?
>>1577615
Yasss! Can you post pics? I can't view webm on safari.

>>1577633
The fiber content wount impact the warping.
You need to climate the environment around the print.

>>1577632
>Which one?
DSM Novamid 1030 CF10.

>What do you mean by that? Did you write g-code by hand?
I drew a test panel with 15% grid infill and 4mm walls in Solidworks, then exported that to STL to be printed with a 0.8mm nozzle. We don't have access to our final large volume printer yet, so this testing will have to do.

>Are you the guy with big delta printer at university, but is gonna use BAAM or similar big ass 3d printer?
Yes, I'm that guy. We are currently looking into another local printer that can deal with this volume and material.

>>1577633
This stuff warps and does NOT want to stick to buildplates. Recommended buildplate temperature is 80 degrees minimum, but you really want 110-120 with a heated chamber, plus specialised adhesive. Nylon is very, very difficult to print anyways, we were very happy to have a succesfull 2 day print with two filament swaps and no failure.

>>1577639
Ahhh why does this have to be hard? May I ask why you didn't choose traditional carbon manufacturing techniques instead? If this is too much hassle I might just buy a laminating kit instead and try my luck with that. My reason for wanting to 3D print it is that the geometry is complex.

>>1577639
What adhesive works?

>>1577647
For what reason do you want to print fiber enforced filaments in the first place?
Nylon might be difficult to print but certainly not impossible.

>>1577639
>We are currently looking into another local printer that can deal with this volume and material.
Have you find anything or are you still searching? What exactly are your demands for the printer? Do you plan to print it in one piece? What about support material (soluble/ removable)?

And good luck. I hope you make it.

>>1577639
I have an Ender 3 with bed leveling, if there's anything I can help you print I'd love to help out too. Even if only to be able to say that I once printed parts for a race car, even though my contribution was something like a mounting clamp for the carbon fibre rod used to hold the hood open.

>>1577647
>>1577671
Even if you can't print nylon yourself there's probably someone in the area who can and would be willing to help you out in exchange for some pizza money.

>>1577647
>May I ask why you didn't choose traditional carbon manufacturing techniques instead?
Because those are very labor intensive, possibly even more expensive, and have a longer turnaround time. If you have a 4mm nozzle you could theoretically print this in ~2 days, try handlaying a prototype monocoque in that time. Also, this is unique - we're the first FSAE team in the world to 3D-print their monocoque.

If you can't print CF nylon yourself, there's probably someone near you who can.

>>1577648
DSM offers all this info on their Plastics Finder website. Can't remember it off the top of my head, it might work wonders for other nylon filaments too.

>>1577754
Still negotiating/testing. Needs to be a pellet printer since stuffing 2.85mm filament through a 4mm nozzle doesn't work. Last one was printed on a 0.8mm nozzle in 5 sections and then laminated together, this is going to be one continuous piece without laminate because the material is so much stronger.
Soluble support is possible with this material, but big pellet printers are usually single nozzle. We'll design the monocoque to minimise support material needed, and then print it with a single head. Try and get the Z-offsets correct beforehand so it hopefully breaks away.

>>1577764
There's no hood, sadly, since it's an open-wheeled EV racecar. We also have about 20 Ultimakers on standby for prototyping and small parts like this, even though I'd love to see people from outside help.

>>1577615
Please explain to me how this is at all cost effective even if it's a prototype. Carbon fiber sheets are cheap and forming them is child's play.

The corners of my print keep peeling up. So the skirt or raft curls and sometimes interrupts my print.
I've tried increasing the bed temp a little and the plastic basically warped immediately. So now I feel like my only options are either a build sheet, or an enclosure. I upgraded to a glass bed recently.

>>1577800
>an open-wheeled EV racecar.
Pics?

>>1577800
>people from outside help
As neat as it might be to able to claim that you crowdsourced parts, it's probably best to not. You'd just end up with a bunch of mismatched PLA shit. Even if you tell them to use that colour filament of that brand, you'd get slightly different tolerances and many simply bad prints.

>>1577181
Currently making a full size bat'leth, about 60% done

>>1577881
Wouldn't it be way easier to just buy some sheet steel? That's what they did in the series.

>actual chunk of metal sticking out of filament

No wonder I had my first nozzle clog I couldn't fix, guess that's what £10/kg plastic quality is like

I hope its an important bit of metal you stupid chinks

>>1577884
yeah, I'll just invest a few hundred dollarydoos in tools and hire some space to start metalworking

totally the same as just printing it in sections and gluing it together

>>1577887
>a few hundred dollars
>hire some space
A walmart contour saw using the included metal blade is more than enough to cut sheet steel, you'll want a table and a pair of clamps, and also a drill so you can start the interior sections. It's not "a few hundred dollars", it's ten dollars and some steel shavings on your kitchen floor. It'll also look way better than your plastic once you find some rags to wrap the handle in.

>>1577854
are you asking for help or what
if you are you need to give a little more info than just the problem...

>>1577893
>It'll also look way better than your plastic
I guarantee you 100% that anything made out of sheet steel by a novice will look like preschool art crafts shit compared to a 3d print. Also he's making a prop not a knife you cuck, why would he want a heavy ass metal sword thing

>>1577893
>3d printing general
>hurr cut it out of metal

>>1577615
>500*275*40mm test panel
>2.2kg of filament

That seems really heavy.

>>1577906
Let's be real here, bakleths always look like shit because they are.

>>1577929
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3076924
this is no ordinary bat'leth, this is the jesus sword

>>1577935
I mean in general, they're a shit weapon. I couldn't design a much worse one if I actively tried. It's a matter of leverage, the thing is absolutely useless if you hold it like they do in the series. It's marginally useful if you wear a glove and swing it like an axe from a tip, but in that case you'd be better off with an actual axe anyway, since that has both a better shape for hitting people with and a better point of balance.

>>1577943
You do realise this is going to be made if plastic and just displayed right? If I swing it too hard it will probably collapse under it's own weight.

I don't plan on killing any cardassians or ferengi with it you fucking plonker

>>1577392
Cool, go ahead and wash off your shower tiles and tub without scrubbing and tell me how that goes.

>>1577615
I'm surprised you don't have shields on that thing when testing. Eyewear is nice and all but it doesn't protect against everything

>>1577949
I never assumed you would. At worst I expected you to want to cosplay with it.
If you wanted something to actually do sparring with I'd probably recommend just cutting it out of plywood, it'd get banged up and ugly either way so you might as well pick a material that can handle that, can be easily replaced, and isn't going to do worse than give your victim some splinters.

I mean more that the idea of it as a weapon in general is plain offensive to me. I had a buddy who had a lich king sword on his wall and I found that offensive in the same way even though it was obviously just a decoration. They're overdesigned and ugly, and would be excessively poor as actual weapon. You can make a beautiful and sensible weapon, case in point most actual swords.

>>1577943
It's not meant to be an easy weapon to use. Klingons are about honor, not the actual killing. It's dishonorable if you just easily kill your prey and not hunt them.

>>1577955
I bet you're the kind of kid who only has weapons on his walls that are 'battle ready' and 'I can totally kill a 100 men with that weapon if I tried hurr'.

>>1577959
The only weapon I own is a little Ruger target pistol, but if I did have decorative ones I would probably go for historical replicas. I think those are sold half-sharp, since a blunt edge looks obviously blunt in the reflection. I just think weapons look better when they look realistic, the fact that the swords I like also would be better murder tools is irrelevant to that.

>>1575532
>MARPAT-D bedspread
y tho

capybara taco holder

I have a chink tevo printer which runs mks gen L board and marlin 1.1.6, with the copy of the marlin source available
i would like to upgrade it to the latest 1.1.9
Do you think that just going through the config files from 1.1.6 for my pritner and copying any relevant values like motor speeds and such over to cofing in the 1.1.9 would work?
And if it doesn't i should be always able to upload the 1.1.6 back in there without any damage right?

>>1578031
I like it

>>1578045

Yes, as long as you have the right configuration.h -es it's fine.

>>1578031
>3d print directly touching edibles
no no NO!

>>1578075
don't forget the config-adv as well

>>1578045
Why? Abs is food safe...

>>1578106
The trace chemicals in the plastic from the manufacturing process will cause you to get 3D printing AIDS. Death soon follows.

>>1577671
I am the anon who printed a fan out of PLA. making it out of carbon sheet would be very hard hence why I am interested in carbon filament. Plus I can print it as a single piece making it stronger. I still stand by what I say that the PLA will survive but even if it does it's only barely and it doesn't look professional so I am going to replace it with carbon.
>>1577766
>>1577800
Yeah I am probably going to enquire somewhere but if the cost is crazy I may have to try doing it myself. The plan would be to buy a CR-10 S5, replace the nozzle with a steel one and put an enclosure around it. Can printers that big stay warm evenly even with an enclosure? Would I need to put in an extra heater or something?

>>1577943
This >>1577949

I printed the stator vanes and I am halfway through the intake ring by the way.

>>1578106
>Abs is food safe...
Only if it contains Ethylene Oxide and Propylene Oxide additives. And only if it has a smooth exterior surface without porosity.

>>1578106
>Abs is food safe...
PET, HDPE, PVC, LDPE, polypropylene, and polystyrene are food safe provided they don't include certain additives. Only some select grades of other plastics are "food safe", and not all "food safe" plastics are dishwasher safe. Generic ABS filament is most decidedly NOT going to be food safe, nor will the surface of a printed part qualify given its rough surface texture and porosity.

>>1577239
just the other month 3d printing was in the news.

rip nozzle

wait... uh...you are supposed to print on the.. black side of the heatbed with the text and shit on it?
jesus christ.. did i install it backwards? i have been printing on the shiny silver side for months now
it just dawned on me when looking at some photos of printers online
but it makes no sense, the black side has traces on it which you can feel with your fingers so it's not perfectly flat

>>1578167
this is the bed i am using
if you look at the photo you can see the seams

>>1578122
>this motherfucker in every thread
I don't fucking care if I assume microplastics.

I'll just poop out the plastic so what's the problem?

>>1578168
You're supposed to put a sheet of PEI or glass on top of it you dummy

>>1578210
On top of the shiny side, I should mention

>>1577615
Nice recreation of Daniel Ricardo's start at the Australian Gran Prix

>>1577835
>Carbon fiber sheets are cheap and forming them is child's play.
Forming them into 3D isn't as easy, especially if your suspension pickups need to be accurately positioned. Fancy designs are hard too, and then you get to certifying the rollcage - you need a stifness equivalent (Flexural rigidity or EI) to three steel tubes.

>>1577875
Pic related is last year's car, which is a 3D-printed base shape which was then laminated with carbon fibre. This year's car is completely printed.

>>1577919
It's going to weigh about 15-16kg per square meter of monocoque, so about 50-55kg total. Not that heavy for a complete chassis in the broad scope of things (although not at the peak of the competition), but it is a very, very heavy print. She thicc.

>>1577952
Shields are great, being in the other room with your hands on the emergency switch is even better.

>>1578238
Hey now, our parts are more structurally sound than a Renault front wing.

I have this dremel vice but the clamp isn't large enough to latch onto my work bench.
I want your input on my idea to increase jaw size. I was thinking I could print two spacer tubes and get longer bolts to go through them.
Pic related. If you look up top you can see the two screw holes that the pair of screws and metal washer off to the side screw into.
So, what does /diy/ think? Clever or full retard?

>>1578246
>Pic related is last year's car, which is a 3D-printed base shape which was then laminated with carbon fibre. This year's car is completely printed.
Awesome, thanks!
>>1578246
>Hey now, our parts are more structurally sound than a Renault front wing.
Kek, I feel bad for Ricardo desu. He seems nice and I don't blame him for leaving Red Bull because Verstappen is douche bag.

>>1578198
>I don't fucking care
Then just eat raw plastic then you ass.
>>1578204
>I'll just poop out the plastic
Okay. Enjoy your man-tits and infertility.

Does anyone have a 28mm model of an Illithid for D&D? I've searched thingiverse all over for a good one, but I'm guessing it isn't called illithid since Wizards sues anyone even thinking of uttering the word. I've tried stuff like "octopus face", "squid men" and such too, but no luck. Only found one so far, which looks absolutely awful and seems borderline unprintable.

>>1578311
I've got the 3 from the "skyless realms" KS, it's kind of hard to see in this pic but they're pretty solid

>>1578311
>>1578328
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ecaroth/the-skyless-realms-3d-printable-tabletop-models/description
A link for a better reference

>>1578328
Those illithids look perfect, but I'm not paying 40 bucks for them when there is only one model I actually want. Oh well.

apparently new ender 3s come with a mk10 extruder, is it work upgrading from a mk8?

is switching to the aluminium parts the same or does it require a different motor? I'm not seeing a lot of explanation on this anywhere

>>1578356
I can send you the .STL for them, you'll just have to wait until I get off work to get to my hard drive

https://www.lightinthebox.com/en/p/tornado-3d-printer-300-300-400mm-high-accuracy-pre-assembled-printer-2017-tevo-latest-model_p6236961.html?prm=1.5.1.1

tevo tornado 300*300*400 for $270 y/n

>>1578448
Just buy an ender 3

My wife likes buns

>>1575301
I just made a mold for a fleshlight but I'm not sure what silicone to use

any advice?

New Thread >>1578540

>>1575532
If you get rid of the chink fans and print at 30mm/sek it should be no problem to a non sensotive person. The slower print speed shouldn't compromise your print quality and I don't think it matters to you if your print is taking longer when you are trying to sleep anyways

>>1575697
Having used both Prusa and Creality machines, I can say that a CR-10 or Ender 3 is 5x louder than a Prusa machine.