/diy/ - Do It Yourself

inb4: I Googled, but results were confusing at best.
Also, how wrong am I:
>>1563046
>>1563042

>>1563055
>How critical is refrigerant charge in on-off air conditioner without any smarts like expansion valve?
Refrigerant charge is always critical, it shuldnt really drop unless we are talking about a moving AC like in cars, otherwise there could be a leak.

Also, all AC require an expansion device. If it doesn have it then we are talking about some low efficency system, like a Cool Fan.

Capillary is cheaper and simplier. Charge lowers in this systems because pressure on each side of the capilalry tube balances out once the AC is turned off. Overcharging it while its OFF can cause damage to the system.

>>1563063
>Refrigerant charge is always critical, it shuldnt really drop unless we are talking about a moving AC like in cars, otherwise there could be a leak.
Makes sense. I think in cars it shouldn't drop too, unless there is a leak somewhere, which is very likely, since stones hit condenser, and vibrations.
But what if charge is lower than it should be, but there are no leaks. (for ex. long lines, and no extra freon was added, or third-world installation, where they use some refrigerant to purge air from system)?
>Also, all AC require an expansion device. If it doesn have it then we are talking about some low efficency system, like a Cool Fan.
Maybe.
My chink on-off 9000 BTU mini split has COP around 3.2 (at least it says so...), while inverter LG with electric valve has COP around 3.8.
AFAIK mine has no expansion valve https://www.manualslib.com/manual/800778/Tcl-Tac-07csa.html?page=3#manual
>Capillary is cheaper and simplier. Charge lowers in this systems because pressure on each side of the capilalry tube balances out once the AC is turned off. Overcharging it while its OFF can cause damage to the system.
So, this is why they are charged, while they're on, right?

I have a ~800 sq. ft., L-shaped, all-one-room finished basement with 2 4x10" supplies on opposite ends of a 14x8" branch on the long part of the "L". I probably need one or two more supplies to keep it comfy, yeah?

How can I mitigate noise from my basement workshop area? Can I 'wall off' the HVAC vents and partially wall off the furnace (forced air electric)? I don't expect it to be soundproof, but I live in a ranch so there's not much distance between my work area and the kid's bedroom.

I'm going to rewire a wall wart so that the polarity is reversed. Should I just write the new polarity on the wall wart with a paint pen?

Any other ideas?

Semi electronically illiterate guy here;
Had a brown out recently and my PC's PSU died. Opened it up and checked the 10 amp ceramic fuse connected right to main with an old multimeter, and it was indeed dead. Quickly replaced it with a 10 amp glass one I had laying around. Didn't plug it to the PC, plugged to main, flipped the switch and the new fuse blew up.
What should I check next? Diodes? Transformer?

>>1563214
Follow schematic.
Check diode bridge, NTC (or PTC, always forget which one is used), main capacitor, switching transistors, PWM ic.
I bet that problem is in high-voltage side.

>>1563257
Thanks

>>1563263
Btw, which power supply do you have?
It is always good to have a schematic handy.

>>1563160
cut positive + negative wires to device, swap them. strip / crimp / heat seal. Make note with silver sharpie on wall wart.

anyone here know how to use TARA embedded wizard to make GUIs? I have no idea what I am doing and just want to make a basic menu gui on stm32

Could I check pic related into a wood lathe to speed up the hollowing process on making cups?

>>1563257
>>1563263
Or perform smoke repair: replace fuse with jumper, plug it in in question, bad component will catch on fire or explode

>>1563543
how would that work?

>>1563547
Bore a large hole in the center, adjust the circle cutter for the diameter you want and cut that hole, then keep adjusting the circle cutter to cut layer after layer until they meet the center hole.

Basically a boring bar for a wood lathe

Can someone help me tell what my boi needs? I dont know enough about plants to really tell, but he doesnt look too happy...

>>1563786
Has these brown spots (only a few) and the leaves are a little too curled up, plus some of the stems feel really weak and unable to carry their own weight.
Appreciate any and all help!

>>1563787
Have you got some mildew growing there at the back of the leaf?

>>1563789
It might be, Im not sure. Is that caused by excess moisture? I only took over care of the plant for my roommate over her holidays, and she did have some overwatering problems a few weeks ago, which iirc she did fix by taking out the plant and letting everything dry a bit.

>>1563794
Yeah, that can lead to mildew.

You can try adding some potassium silicate to the soil, it tends to make plants more resilient to these kinds of problems. Sort of looks like manganese deficiency, but more likely it's just having a bad time and is a bit depleted across a few micronutrients.

>>1563823
Ok noted thanks a lot! I think my roommate did give it fertilizer just before she left so it should have enough potassium. Not sure what else is in there...
Any idea on how to stop its "bad time" besides micronutrients? Im not sure what its name is even, but it does get a little bit less sunlight in my room compared to hers since I only have a northwards facing window, but it was already looking down before so not sure...

is the circled area in this pic of my home heating oil tank the "whistler?"
it's on the vent pipe. there should be a stem tube coming down a few inches from it into the tank, i will check that out once i get an inspection mirror and look inside.

>>1564114
nevermind, i found out, it is the whistler, saw out by shining a light inside the tank through another port and saw the stem tube.

I don't have a mill, so this is just a conceptual question. I figure someone here has experience with this sort of thing.

If I wanted to mill a standalone part that doesn't have straight edges and can't easily be clamped, how do I separate the piece from the base that I've clamped onto for the first operation? Pic related.

>>1564129
soft jaws.

you put soft aluminum or steel jaws into your machinist vise and mill the profile of the part into them, leaving enough space to clamp it.

I'll actually provide you an image tutorial for doing it in Fusion 360.

>>1564129
you're going to want to sketch two rectangles with the dimensions of your soft jaws, I have a vise with 6" wide jaws and I normally use the thicker 2" thick aluminum jaws from monsterjaws.com

good prices and made in USA

>>1564139
after which you're going to extrude the sketch into the 3d body, again with the dimension of the soft jaws you have--don't "join" the bodies into the model you already have!

just keep them separate, move stuff around if you have to.

>>1564141

>>1564141
>>1564142
and if you want to model your cap screw bores into the jaw models you can save them and re-use them, but it's super quick and easy to just sketch a couple rectangles.

position the jaws such that they are still spread apart yet the part will extend deep enough to push on the important bits to hold it

the big loop-de-loop lobes are where my clamping force is primarily going to go

>>1564144

>>1564145

>>1564146
we're going to use the "combine" tool to cut the profile of the model into the soft jaws

>>1564147
keep in mind that after this is done, the jaws will be clamping only at the top and want to bell-mouth away from the part, a good vise with not too much clamping pressure it should be fine

combine, mode cut, option keep "tool" body

the tool is the part you are using to cut into the jaw, it will have to be done again for the other jaw

doing this for complicated 3d surfaces quickly becomes very taxing on fusion 360!

Normally with those models you don't need it to be a perfect 3d shape at all, so you simplify the geometry in the soft jaw so that it is easier to machine. I have made some great fixtures this way.

>>1564151
oh and you can actually save the machined stock from the middle of a CAM operation and use that model to create your soft jaws too!

>>1564153
now im going to create clearance for the areas that aren't important to clamping and are difficult to machine

press "R" for a rectangle and click the top of the vise jaw for the plane on which to draw it, draw rectangle above the surface you want clearance over, press Q and click the rectangle then click the bottom of the pocket there to extrude it down to that point.

>>1564159

>>1564163

>>1564164

>>1564166
you can also draw circles or other shapes if it is more convenient

do this for the rest of the stupid parts you don't need

>>1564166
now you have some pockets that still have sharp corners, we're going to want to mickey-mouse those corners so it is both easier to machine (don't drill them, little chips will sit down in the hole and be hard to clean out) and easier to clean

>>1564170

>>1564171

>>1564173
heres a 100 thou chamfer on all the sharp edges

>>1564176
and there's you some basic quick and dirty soft jaws

>>1564177
You can also save the stock at any point in the simulation and use that model to create your fixtures.

>>1564177
That makes sense, thanks for the images.

>>1564185
np

thinking about starting a machining business?

>>1564185
of course if the part is steel and you have a flat surface you could use a mag-chuck or even glue it down

>>1563090
The charge is sized for the system. High pressure liquid refrigerant leaves whatever your using as a metering device and boils off into a low pressure vapor... it absorbs heat from the surrounding tubing as it does this.. at a certain point it will have absorbed enough heat to be at the same temperature as it’s surroundings.. ideally you want this point to be at the end of the tubing in the evaporator.. if the charge is too small then it will reach equilibrium somewhere in the middle of the evaporator and won’t effectively cool the air passing through the evaporator.. if it’s overcharged then you run the risk of having some of the liquid not boil off properly and if liquid gets in the compressor it will blow the valves since it’s not compressable.. there are a few types of compressors that are resistant to this damage like scroll compressors but they’re usually bigger or for split system ac units... also if it’s for an ac system then you want to keep the overall evaporator temperature cold but still above freezing.. otherwise the moisture in the air will cause it to freeze up.. I do fridge repair so I don’t really have to deal with that since the units I work on have a defrost heater to remove the ice buildup.... Overcharging a system will also generally increase the overall system pressure which will cause the compressor to work harder..


As to charging a system while it’s on that’s generally done so you can use the low pressure side of the system to suck refrigerant from the tank into the system... otherwise you have to heat the tank till the tank pressure is higher than the system pressure or use a recovery machine to pump it in...

>>1563738
Why not just get a large diameter forstener bit then enlarge the last bit out with a chisel? Faster than resetting an adjustable hole cutter a million times...

>>1564230
I'll give that a shot, even tho the circle cutter is a lot cheaper.

Why does it have to be a forstner bit and not a spade bit?

diy watch instructions, anyone? preferably mechanical and under $5 in parts

>>1564177

Hello,
I want to control a motor ( I don't know yet about dc or stepper motor ) with a PID controller, I'm using an arduino board for quick prototyping ( then I switch to a PIC )
When I send my setpoint to the card I want to see the value of the encoder attached to my motor so I can plot a pic-related-result on MATLAB
What is the most elegant and fastest way to send data from microcontroller to PC ? Serial.print seems kind off slow for fast system response

>>1564312
>What is the most elegant and fastest way to send data from microcontroller to PC ? Serial.print seems kind off slow for fast system response

I'm not entirely sure USB is faster than parallel at all in practical terms. Slap one of those parallel port cards into a modern PC and then the signals go from there to a driver of some kind to step up the signals so they can power the motor.

http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58

http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Mesa_Cards

>>1564319
Thanks for the answer but that solution is a little expensive and I feel like I have no other possibilities but USB

>>1564267
Check out ofrei.com and Esslinger.com they are two watchmaking websites. Are you trying to build a mechanical wristwatch from scratch? Or assemble one? Have you thought about getting cheap watches that don’t run and repairing them?

>>1564322
well enjoy buying a USB smoothstepper too so you can actually use it

>>1564191
Not yet, no. I just saw some images of half finished pieces and was curious as to how they got the rest of it finished.

Will normal resin mixed with wood flour be just as effective as marine resin when building a plywood dinghy? I'm not too keen on spending double the money for resin

Got a heater/ac and the blower motor doesn't stay on. It starts but dies when it gets up speed. Any ideas?

>>1564579
>Any ideas?
Firstly, have you done any diagnostics at all? Like seeing if the blower is still getting power but not turning? If this is the case, you probably need a new motor. If power is cutting out, you'll have to look at your control circuitry.

>>1564312
>What is the most elegant and fastest way to send data from microcontroller to PC ?
You actually don't care about latency, as you're only going to be looking at the data well after the fact. As long as you aren't flooding Serial.print faster then USB can keep up it should be fine, seems to me.

>>1564258
Forstner cuts a much smoother hole than a spade and is less likely to bind and fuck your workpiece... also the tip doesn’t stick out as far on a forstner vs a spade...

>>1564324
ya i’ll probavly just buy the shittiest watch ever if making one isn’t something i can do with household stuff in ann hour

what are some good general tools to keep in a kit in the house

I already have my garden tools and the tools I use for my car in the garage.

but I realised I don't even own a regular claw hammer (only random size rubber mallets I use on my car)

>>1565128
heavy duty snap off knife (I use olfa 18mm and 25mm), drill/screwdriver, level, measuring tape, multimeter, clampmeter, crowbar, hammer, clamps
All shit I've used at some point or another.

>>1565128
>>1565138
also, combination square, incredibly useful

>>1565128
Depends on house, obviously.
I'd keep
>most common screwdrivers (PH2, flat, "precision" set, couple hex wrenches...)
>utility knife
>small cordless drill (or maybe an electric screwdriver)
>hot glue gun
>adjustable wrench
>measuring tape
>vice grips
>pliers
>soldering iron
>multi meter
>multitool, like Swiss army knife
And following materials
>Electrical tape
>Masking tape
>Duct tape
>Self-tapers (assorted)
>Hot glue sticks
>Hydrochloric acid
>Alcohol of sort (IPA or drinkable)
>Solder

>>1564312
>then I switch to a PIC
why pic? that's switching from avr dinosaur technology to another dinosaur.

>What is the most elegant and fastest way to send data from microcontroller to PC ?
Those are bogus requirements if you can't say what elegant means or how fast you need to send data.
If you want low latency USB is not the answer, but it may actually meet your needs.

anyone know where the linkage goes on this pallet jack. i believe theres supposed to be a bracket between the silver round circle and the hanging chain . we just picked this up off a tweaker for 20bux

its a uline h-2721 deluxe pallet jack

I cant afford a storage unit. How feasible is it to buy a big box, put my things in it and bury it underground for a year?

>>1565153
>Those are bogus requirements if you can't say what elegant means or how fast you need to send data.
>If you want low latency USB is not the answer, but it may actually meet your needs.
I think I will do as >>1564654 said and send the data after the fact

>>1565153
>why pic?
Because my teachers are always saying "arduino is shit, for kids. Go PIC" but if you know an alternative I would love to know it
I want to drive a DC motor, read from an encoder and make a closed loop control

>>1565176
>"arduino is shit, for kids. Go PIC"

not the guy you're talking to, but that's a religious thing for some people, AVR vs. PIC; like the other guy said, they are comparable technology. I'd look at the STM32 family if I were you, but the other guy might have a better suggestion.

>>1565181
I will check that thank you
I feel like I'm going to fall in something a little overkill thought

>>1565189
>a little overkill though

If you are driving a motor closed loop I think an STM32 device would be ideal, and you could probably have a nice display of some sort if you like, given the power of those. but as I implied, I'm not an expert here, so keep watching for other opinions.

>>1565191
>If you are driving a motor closed loop I think an STM32 device would be ideal
I really need to make a shit tons of research on that then because I honestly thought a simple 16f1619 would do the trick easily and be ideal

>>1565176
>arduino is shit, for kids
correct
>Go PIC
does not follow from first statement. AVR is not the arduino, avr is a big chip family, as is PIC. Maybe your teachers probably started on PICs and thus speak highly of them.
The atmegs328p is now in the same position the pic 16f84 was: the hobby world stuck with 16f84 for ages even though much better and cheaper chips kept coming out.
I started on pics, then went to avr, and am now planning on moving to stm32.
Arm is the future IMO because they are 32 bit, arm has tons of industry momentum, and you get better bang for your buck with them. Cheaper, faster, less power, better in pretty much every way. The only reason I'd still use avr or pic is if I absolutely needed 5V GPIO.

I need help identifing a digital sensor method/variety since I need a specific kind for a project.
I need something like the black boxes on the fingers of pic related that return a signal value depending how far they are extended.

>>1565211

linear encoder or a liner potentiometer. encoder will be digital, you'd read the pot on an ADC pin.

>>1565218
>you'd read the pot
what? sloan or kohler?

>>1565211
Depends on needs.
If you need precision: you need to make an optical ruler, or use linear pot.
If you don't need precision, you can use analog hall sensor with magnet.
If you need digital ouput, you can get some micro and use it as ADC. Or designated IC.

Describe project more precisely, since it sorta matters.

>>1565278
i'm trying to make a hand controller for an arduino sort of like the image i posted.

>>1565284
In this case using hall sensors is not an option, since "fingers" would be too close and will interfere with other sensors.
How are you going to move fingers?
I suggest you using a servo and some sort of tie rods or cable in sleeve (like on bicycle brakes). Servo already has feedback, you can wire to its potentiometer and read it using analog pins

>>1565290
nonono i meant a controller operated by a hand. i just want it to give some data about the finger positions.

>>1565294
You have couple options.
>round turn-knob potentiometers, which will double as joint
>cables with sleeves and linear potentiometers.
All this can be proceeded by ADC on Arduino... There are 8 of them I believe, idk

>>1565300
Round pots, which will double as joints

>>1565303
And put this abomination in condom of sort.

>>1565311
>>1565303
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1070
what do you guys think of flex sensors?

im probably retarded and shouldve done more extensive research before i came here.

>>1565325
I haven't used those. Give them a try I guess
>im probably retarded and shouldve done more extensive research before i came here.
That is OK. At least you've selected SQT, not OHM or whatever.

I'm looking for a two channel oscilloscope with delayed sweep that won't cause five hunnit dolla.

What are some brands/models that I should look into? I appreciate any help.

>>1565413
used rigol, or a usb scope

In the market for a new spanner set, anything I should be aware of? Recommended brands, what to stay away from?

Everything seems to be the same material, from the cheap 10 dollar sets to the 10 dollar per spanner sets. Chrome Vanadium.

>>1565640

If you buy a set, get the most complete one you can ever imagine needing and you will save money in the long run when you need that larger wrench. I would never buy the most expensive brand or the cheapest garbage, but something in between. Bepis and some other wrench lovers seem to think the warranty is important, but I've been using sockets, ratchets, and all the other tools for decades and they just don't break or wear out in my experience, so warranty means nothing to me.

>>1565640
HF is good quality and will replace any hand-tool that breaks in normal use.

>>1565642
>>1565649
Cheers. It's for personal use so I can get away with a metric only. I'd buy expensive but I'd use them so little I'd be subsidising heavier users warranty with my purchase which isn't a good deal for myself.

I'm having a look at the odd assortment I've accrued over the years in the shed which are all rusted to hell and the best finished/least rusted ones are britool, so I might see if I can find a decent set of them.

Should all of them be fully chrome vanadium and not just plated? Only reason I ask is I've had a lot of no-name pliers and flatheads, etc., where the surface chrome starts to peel after a single use.

I want to add a flag to my project to signify inspection status. In this case, it is an ROV that needs to be inspected before entering the water and after leaving it. We have an inspection checklist for each; the last step of the pre-op would be to remove the flag, and the last step of the post-op would be to put it back on.

The flag would attach to the tether anchor point. I am considering a red/white flag similar to the "remove before flight" tags. What should the flag say? Ideally, it should be within 20 characters. The team will continue after I am gone, so the meaning of the flag should be self-explanatory. "Remove before dive" or similar does not convey the need for an inspection.

>>1565688
The 20 character limit is a soft one.

>>1565658
>where the surface chrome starts to peel after a single use.

I think decent tools will be solid. I just checked some of my middle quality tools (Husky) and they're solid chrome vanadium.

>>1565694
Cheers boss

Just took apart my basin's U-bend and cleaned out all the hair, but the thing still drains slowly. Should I go for Drano or a Drain Snake? Can post pics if necessary, but it's a small bathroom basin. Just moved in here, the hair isn't mine.

Why CO2 isn't used as refrigerant?

>>1565816
Because it doesn't easily have a liquid phase.

So Ive been thinking of building a shed this summer. I have no saws. Which ones would you say are necessary?

Greetings /diy/, I am trying to repurpose an old lava lamp into a lamp suitable for lighting up my room. What would you recommend? I have attempted to rewire a bulb adapter from a broken floor lamp but it literally burst into plasma and broke, miraculously I was not harmed and I still have my eyesight. Attached is an image of my workspace, from order of left to right:
New bulb, original lava lamp bulb socket, floor lamp bulb socket (burned), and the base of the lava lamp.

>>1565816
Co2 IS used as a refrigerant, its the cleanest you can possibly get. Its just a fuckton of pressure (have fun with 1500psig head) and if it fucks up you lose the whole charge.

>>1565944
For anyone else thinking of doing something similar, it is actually very basic. Just get electrical tape and attach the neutral/neg wire to the base of the bulb, and tape the positive to the side of the bulbs base, plug it in and you're done. This is of course somewhat of a temporary solution, and I would recommend buying new sockets altogether and working from there, however this only cost me time and electrical tape and it works great for now.

what is the purpose of having the first outlet in series but the other three in parallel? Assuming none of them are GCFIs.

>>1566083
They are all in parallel. What are you talking about

>>1566083
There isn't a reason. Having a GFCI is the only time I know of when you would do that, and even then, only on the GFCI outlet. It is not recommended to do that otherwise. If one outlet develops a fault then every outlet after it could go dead, depending on the fault. When using standard outlets you should have every outlet connected to the main run using a pigtail.

The only good reason to use both sets of screw terminals is when you want one outlet switched and the other not. In that, case you would sperate them by breaking the tab between each set of screws. Wire one set up to a switch and the other set up to the main run and there you go.

So, why was it done? 'Cause someone was a lazy fuck. Same reason I find outlets where they only grounded the metal box and not the outlet itself. It's faster and it works. It is not best practice.

>>1566090

black wire = power right? Because it looks like it's in series here >>1566083

>>1566100
It's not. They are just using both screw terminals on the outlet for illustration purposes.

An outlet in series would have black coming in on one side, black leaving on the other to go to the next outlet and white leaving and coming all the way back to bond with the white in the 1st vox. The outlets would only function when something was plugged into both, and then it wouldn't be good because the voltage would be all tucked up

Howdy. Last night and this morning all of the lights in my flat have started flickering, it doesn't affect lamps only the lights from the ceiling and is very annoying. This sometimes happens in the wind but there isn't any. Should I be concerned?

>>1566083
You should stay away from electrical devices.

>>1566083
They all are daisy-chained.

Why? It is cheaper like that.

So i'm making medieval shields and i was wondering if there's any company that prints large decals or stickers with your own design on them? It needs to be about 60 x 80 cm. That is 23 x 31 inches.
I did find this one company online but they were asking a ridiculous price for that size of a sticker.

>>1566295
What were they asking? Maybe that's normal.

>>1566311
87 dollars or so, lol.

I thought there should be some cheaper way. It doesn't necessarily have to be a sticker, it could just be a paper color print. The quality doesn't have to be great because i can coat it later in a plastic cover, i was really just looking for a way to order large custom prints. Maybe i could get a cloth print for cheaper?

>>1563055
Hey /SQTDDTOT/, will this work for an IR Gen 1 nightvision? I've seen similar setups on YouTube using bigger cameras.

My only concern is the power supply, I'm afraid it might not be the right choice...

The monitor is an Adafruit NTSC/PAL 2 inch, and yes the IR filter is removed off the camera.

I'm considering acquiring a 1,400 sqft home in a delepidated neighborhood for peanuts (sub-$500) as a part of a revitalization program. Pretext is code-compliance at intervals (4 month to exterior code, 18 minths to full compliance, three years residency). I want to become more educated with home renovations, from the general process down to the nitty gritty details. Engineerfag, so big books with tiny words don't scare me. Any books or free online sources I should reference in my pursuit of knowledge, or any tips in general?

>>1566410
Get building inspectors in early so they can tell you what you need to do and you have time to do it.

>>1566403
Firstly, what voltage does the TFT PCB want? Also there is no power wire running to the camera.

How fucked am I?

>>1566474
fucked. i don't know what your image is of though.

>>1566484
Side of my Burnham oil boiler, the burned looking area gets wicked hot when the boiler fires

Looking to buy a used extension ladder. What should I look for when inspecting it? Also, aluminum or fiberglass?

Ok, stupid question here. I have a bunch of soap bars that are to thin, or whatever, to use. I had been saving these thinking I could somehow melt them down into a useable soap bar again. I have no idea how to do this, or if its even a good idea. Anyone ever try this? What was the outcome and how did you do it?

>>1566512
hailed heat exchanger most likely

>>1566521
Fiberglass is much sturdier. I'd never go back even if they weigh a ton.

Make sure all the hardware is there, nothing is cracked, make sure all the rivets are there.

If the clearcoat is gone and the fiberglass is flaking off, theres spray on products to address that, but it's like 50$ and a couple hours of your time

>>1566563
Don't overthink it. Get all relevant pieces of soap damp long enough for them to soften. Being in the range of shower spray is convenient for this. Press soap scraps together firmly and allow them to dry again. They will now be bonded together into a larger piece.

Different brands and mixes of soap have different properties, so some might not fuse well to others, but if all pieces are the same, they absolutely will. That's basically how they made the bar in the first place.

i want to make a clip on reading light, can i use a AA/AAA battery for this? all the tutorials i found used watch batteries

>>1566572
Drat that's pretty much RIP furnace right?
Guess I know where my tax refund is going

>>1566604
watch batteries are nominally 3V
AA/AAA are 1.2 or 1.5 depending on the chemistry
So you'll need 2 or 3 and prob a resistor too

>>1566435
It can use from 6-12V DC.
The power wire to the camera is there, right side of the DC splitter.

Display specs:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/911

Camera specs:
https://www.sure24.co.uk/kt-c-kpc-ej230puwx-bullet-camera-3-6mm-1-3-colour-700tvl-12v.html

>>1566657
Oh yeah, the wire from the splitter wasn't expressed as 2 wires so I was a bit confused.

From what I've seen of those analogue video displays, they're pretty easy to shove together. I had a friend who got a CRT out of an old camcorder's viewfinder and wired it into a dedicated IR camera and attached a bunch of IR LEDs and it worked a treat. So your circuit should work without an issue, but comparatively your hardware isn't exactly the cheapest around, if you haven't bought it yet I'd advise looking on ebay for cheap/second hand replacements, especially for the camera.

>>1566604
>>1566631
You can get tiny fucking 3.7V li-ions with protection built in. That cocksucker AvE, I can’t stand him but I still watch his videos and he took apart one of those electric lighters and the li-ion inside must have been the size of a couple nickels stacked together. It already had a micro USB charge port and protection hooked up to the battery, so just take the wires off that bitty battery and hook it up to a resistor + switch + choice of LED and you’re good to go.

Pic related is 1.15” x 1.4” x 0.19”

>>1566631
>>1566703
i’m lost, but it sounds like using a watch battery would be much simpler? if so i’ll just do that

>>1566706
Meh, it’s all about the same. I’m retarded but I was fucking around with a bunch of little LED flashlights that run off 3xAAA (3x1.5v) and replaced it with one Li-Ion (~4V) and they run without any modification. Li-Ions are rechargeable and last forever so you can get a lot more light from a lithium battery and charge it with a cellphone charger compared to replacing watch batteries every other day. If you’re building the thing from scratch, it’s a thought.

CR123 would be a good option too. Get rechargeable ones and for like 1/2 the size of a AA, you can get as much power as 3xAAAs.

>>1566714
Not him but a battery charger that charges batteries of any size individually is relevant to my interests. Any recommendations?

>>1563055
Any US based locksmiths want to cut me some fleet keys?

>Pic Related
>What’s the worst that could happen?

>>1566787
There’s a million of them on Amazon. Some will charge different types like NiMH and Li-Ion. But if you’re just trying to do Li-Ions, find one with good ratings because some of the cheap ones don’t hold the cells in worth a damn. Also some will let you select different currents which is something to think about. Higher current means faster charge but less charge cycles in the long run.

Anyway if you’re charging Li-Ion cells, I suggest reading up on CC-CV and the “C” rating of cells, as well as checking the data sheet of your cells because that will tell you the optimum way to charge them.

>>1566787
>>1567057
Pic related is the one I had on my wishlist, but I use my power supply instead. This one seems to charge everything and will let you choose between 500mA and 1.0A. Reviews look decent and I think you can get it in different sizes if you want one that will charge 4 cells ar once.

I want to make one of those epoxy river tables, and I'm wondering what the ideal material to use as a mold would be.
The epoxy mixture I predict I'll be using will be fairly transparent and probably with something like aquarium sand mixed onto the bottom, so I will need to use a propane or a mapp-pro torch to force any bubbles to pop.
At the same time I don't want to burn the surrounding pieces of wood or the mold, so most plastics are right out.
What choices do I have? I figure no matter what, I just have to apply carnauba wax on top, right?

Actual stupid question here. What the fuck are these things (circled in red) on chargers? I kinda suspect that they're resistors but wouldn't it make more sense to have them inside the "head" of the charger?

Im renting an apartament and the tap in the kitchen has no water pressure or whatever the fuck it is, basically the water, both cold and hot, is barely running out of the tap. Apartament is in the top floor (9) of the commieblock built at around 1990.
I have no experience or knowledge about anything in relation with pipes and whatnot, neither do I have basically any tools.
Anything I could do to fix this? Ive notified the owner about this, he said he will send his buddy to take care of it but that faggot broken his word twice now by promising to come over and not even notifying that he actually isnt.

picture always related

>>1567532
You call the landlord, or the agent, and have them sort it.

>>1567532
Look under the sink near the wall, there will be some valves
Turn them all the way, counterclockwise to make sure water is flowing.

If it's anything else you will have to wait

>>1567517
Some ferro thing to cut down on interference?

>>1567517
ferrite bead

Where do I start with making the physical parts of electronics projects? Specifically "maker" type projects with Arduinos, RaspberryPis, AVRs, servos, motors, sensors etc. Code is fine, electronics I'm learning steadily enough, but where do I start when it comes to manufacturing the physical pieces?

What materials do I use? Wood? Acrylic? Metal? Plastic?

What tools can I start with that aren't going to blow the bank, and are going to give me enough precision to make stuff? I have no power tools or big boy DIY stuff, just stuff for electronics like soldering iron, screw drivers etc.

What about various bolts, nuts, screws, joining doo-dads? Can I get a sort of starter pack of lots of that stuff since there's a million different sizes?

What software can I use to design stuff? I've heard of solidworks, or do I just stick to pen + paper? Then I need to figure out how to take my designs and manufacture them with my chosen materials and tools...

Also, where can I learn about different moving mechanisms to give myself the mental tools to design something?

>>1567699
>Also, where can I learn about different moving mechanisms to give myself the mental tools to design something?
book: mechanisms and mechanical devices sourcebook
handy reference: machinery's handbook

>>1567532
>basically the water, both cold and hot, is barely running out of the tap
The 'bubbler' is stopped up.
>unscrew it from the end of the spout
>clean trash out
>reattach to end of spout
!Profit!!

>>1567718
This right here

>>1567699
You do what works at the time.
You seem to think there is a science to making shit.
There isnt.
You just like make thing.

I've noticed, that my ceiling is hot to the touch (southern hemisphere), which makes air conditioner go full retard...
How do I fix it?

>>1567911
attic insulation

>>1567699
>software
any parametric CAD application. I use Fusion 360. Autodesk accepts gmail.
>the mental tools to design something
Requirements.
Engineers don't discover, they invent. There is nothing to invent without demands to be met.
Strict requirements are a form of guidance which allow you to narrow the potential scope of designs.
If you do not have a narrow enough scope, create better requirements.
Good requirements come from a deep understanding of your application and its use cases.

>>1568046
accepts gmail for their educational program.
they don't care whether you're a student or not, they want you to get hooked onto their software and refuse to use anything else.

hand tools are usually fine as long as they are made in Taiwan as opposed to China right?

>>1568179
country of origin tells you nothing about the quality of a tool, though it does tell you a lot about the company who made the order.
brand name tells you the level of quality assurance.

I don't want to buy another garage door and this one kinda works but flakes all over the place and sometimes sticks and requires force, can I fix it?

I live in Wisconsin where we have a 120 F degree temperature swing between winter and summer. Our house is mostly surrounded by mostly young deciduous trees which act as a very poor wind block in the winter, and an exceptional wind block in the summer. While the trees do provide shade in the summer evenings, they also block any possible breeze from the north or west.

I'm considering cutting down the young trees while leaving the larger trees to provide shade. This will allow for a breeze in the summer, but it will make things slightly colder in the winter. Is this a good idea? What would you do in this situation? Pic related: shitty sketch of a birds eye view of my house.

How many coats of oil on a raw beechwood desk?

I have some oil (no idea what kind, it's just called 'furniture oil' as far as I can tell. Based on "natural and vegetable oils")
>http://renuwell.com/de/moebel-oel/

I've done two coats 24 hours apart so far, but a friend's old man told me to do a coat every few days for a month. Seems excessive.
Any advice would be appreciated

>>1568455
>Any advice would be appreciated
You were given advice but want to disregard it because it didn't seem right to you.
Just do what you think is right.
There's also Google or DuckDuckGo

>>1563055
This was interesting let's see if any anons could figure this one out
>Leave house yesterday
>Come home after 2 hours
>No electricity anywhere in the house
>Go to breaker panel
>No tripped breakers, nothing changed
>Turn main breaker off, then back on
>Suddenly power throughout the house
What could have caused this?
It hasn't happened since. But I've left the circuit breaker in the room that I was previously doing electrical work off. One of the hot wires was frayed and tangled with the neutral wire for a lamp socket. I replaced the socket and replaced the wire nuts. 5 neutral wires are connected in one orange wire nut, then three and three hot wires are connected in two other orange wire nuts. When I turned the electricity back on and tested the lights they were working fine and no longer making a loud buzzing noise. This wouldn't happen to cause a problem in hours time after. I also saw some electrical utility trucks driving out of my street before returning to my powerless house. Any ideas?

>>1568615
Were the linemen glowing in the dark?

>>1568623
It was day time, I couldn't tell.

>>1567594
They actually increase inductance. High frequencies are attenuated much more than low frequencies by inductors, so increasing the inductances will ensure that basically only the DC power can freely escape the charger into whatever it's charging. This is important with common switch-mode power supplies/chargers as they produce very high frequency noise as a byproduct (anywhere from a few kHz to 1 MHz in some extreme cases), and letting this noise get to a laptop or other sensitive electronic device can be detrimental. This is why you'll see those ferrite beads on printer cables and laptop power supplies more often than on simple battery chargers or that sort of thing.

>>1568615
Perhaps you have a GFCI/RCD that doesn't flip the breaker switch, but instead requires that it be turned off then on again to reset? It wouldn't be an objectively stupid idea as far as safety precautions go. Also stop using wire nuts you shitlord.

>>1568649
>Perhaps you have a GFCI/RCD that doesn't flip the breaker switch, but instead requires that it be turned off then on again to reset?
What would cause it randomly trip? The main breaker has a trip option between on and off.
>Also stop using wire nuts you shitlord.
What do I use then? This is what the light fixture wires were connected with. Maybe the 5 neutral wires aren't properly wire nutted?

>>1568658
>What would cause it randomly trip?
You were talking about frayed wires, so it might have been one of them momentarily touching a grounded chassis, or just water getting into your wiring.
>What do I use then?
Wago lever nuts, or screw terminals with wires that have ferrules. I can't believe burgers still use wire nuts.

What's the best way to sound proof an interior door? The walls to my room are thick enough I don't hear anything when people are in the adjacent rooms, but my loudass fucking roommate will monologue for literal hours at full fucking volume and it echoes all the way down the hallway and bounces into my room. The door seems to be solid enough to block out the noise but it has significant gap on the top and bottom.

Should I just get some rubber pad strips or something to plug it up or?

>>1568664
>You were talking about frayed wires, so it might have been one of them momentarily touching a grounded chassis, or just water getting into your wiring.
Anon you're a genius. The ceiling fan with lamps has four lamp sockets. I was inspecting two of the other lamp sockets and also found exposed wires coming out of the lamp socket however since they were not tangled together I assumed it was fine to put back. Now that you mention this could it be that the exposed wires are touching the metal ceiling fan and charging the whole metal ceiling fixture? In that case just wrap electrical tape around the copper strands and make sure they don't touch any metal or just purchase another ceiling fan lamp socket. Maybe I should just replace the whole ceiling fan fixture.
>Wago lever nuts, or screw terminals with wires that have ferrules
Ok I'll see if the home improvement store has it
>I can't believe burgers still use wire nuts.
That's just how I encountered the wiring when I opened up the ceiling fan. We're pretty behind in at least some areas.

>>1568692
>my loudass fucking roommate will monologue for literal hours at full fucking volume
Record it so we can listen, and then use this to blackmail him into shutting up.
On the other hand, if you come up with a good solution be sure to share as I've got a sliding window that lets a bunch of traffic noise into my bedroom, and I can't blackmail hundreds of cars.
Also I hope I'm not that roommate.

>>1568709
The only way to soundproof a window is to stick thicker glass on there. Or if you feel industrial, put in a second sliding window as a lazy double-pane.

>>1568712
It's mainly leaking in through the gaps on top and above it, the clearances for the sliding part are massive since it's ancient and made of wood, similar to this image. There's at least a 3mm on either end for air and sound and bugs to get in from. I know if it was an aluminium frame with rubber seals it would be a lot quieter.

>>1568715
Well I'll pick up some weather stripping and stick it in the top of my door, see what happens and report back. I don't know how much it'll help cause the bigger gap is on the bottom cause, yknow, carpet.

>>1568715
>double-hung window
I have lots of these in my hundred year old radiator ridden apartment.
Weather stripping won't do shit for these windows, because they're so old and worn that whole golden digger wasps can just crawl through the gaps in the corners.
I don't think there's a cheap solution to improving sound isolation for them.
You have to actually fill in the voids in the corners or replace the panels making up the sash, would be cheaper to just buy new windows at that point.

>>1568751
>golden digger wasps
I don't know what those are but we don't have them here nor do I want anything to do with them. All I've got here are moths, for some reason. I think they might be breeding nearby. It's a flat so I can't modify anything, but stuffing some layers of rubber or foam or fabric around the frame when I close it will probably do something for me. Just not sure where to get that stuff, I might check the junk shop next door.

>>1568753
how about you just try stuffing the gaps with towels to see if it works before you go out and buy stuff

>>1568755
I tried with some old clothing and it might have made a difference, but it was pretty difficult to get it stuffed in there while juggling the window.

>>1568463
I was given advice and want to hear a second or third opinion, but thanks anyway for your unhelpful post, I appreciate you wasting your time to reply.

Has anyone gotten ambilight/adalight working with a raspberry pi running OSMC (or similar)?
I had it working just fine with an arduino when my tv was next to my computer. Now they're in different rooms.
Everything is outdated and links are broken.

>>1568788
>Old Man
>Anon
>Google
Go get it done

I need to replace the felt tape on the back of my dryer, but all I can find is felt for the drum. Is there a specific name for this? Any chance in hell of finding it at a local store, or do I need to order it?

Could these loose seals cause a burning smell in dryer? I cleaned out all the lint out of the machine a while ago, and cleared the vent out all the way to the roof with a drill/brush combo. But when its on mid or high heat it still smells like burning shit.

>>1568808
its called: Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal

Wich of this two are better? Im intending to serial connect them to my stereo baffles and put them behind me to create a fake cuadradrophonic sound.

>>1568383
>What would you do in this situation?
Depends on other factors and personal preferences. For example, I have a nice view to the south and west, so I would want those areas relatively clear. My house is also rather well insulated with some passive solar features to mitigate seasonal temperature swings, so my main concern regarding wind effects would be snow drifts on the driveway. That close to the house, I would lean towards some well-separated larger trees, with lower branches pruned if they're big enough. If thermal regulation of the house is a concern, some evergreen shrubs along the walls might help. Windward side and outside corners for blocking wind, western side for shade. Keep the south clear to catch sun in the winter.

>>1568788
Google should have the MSDS for your mystery oil, and from there you should be able to find application guidelines.

A few days ago the tub started to drain very slowly, so I tried to snake it with a cheap plastic one and some draino and did hours of plunging. It didn't drain any faster at all but did eventually, but the last couple days water has been backing up in to the tub and just yesterday the tub overflowed and flooded the hallway and bedrooms. I have a 25 foot plumbing augur but it doesn't seem to be doing fuckall as far as I can tell but then again this is my first time using it. My tub looks almost identical to pic related with the reddish brown sand/dirt backwash and it keeps backing up so i've been using a hose and my vacuum cleaner to siphon the water out. Do I just call a plumber or am i missing something?

>>1569082
Is the tub in the lowest part of house? Do you have a drain access clean out some where ? If you do I’d try to snake that.

>>1569092
ya it's lowest part of house and all the clean outs are on the opposite side of the house and all i have is 25feet of cable. I just don't understand why i'm not getting any resistance whatsoever once I get past the U trap while running the snake to its 25foot cap

>>1569092
also, how am I able to tell if my snake went into the vent as opposed to continuing down

>>1568817
whichever sounds better really. Do you have 2 of each type? Do you have a crossover for those?
What do you mean by baffle?

Howdy, i'm putting my front-loading washing machine back together after a drum rebuild and i can't seem to find any info on whether the pair of solenoids for the inlet valve (such as the ones pictured) are polarity-sensitive or not. There's really nothing indicating which spade terminal goes where, they look identical, only the two pairs of wires have different colors for each solenoid.

>>1569284
Almost guaranteed they are polarity insensitive.

Why the fuck clean air conditioner stinks, when it works as a fan?
Heating? No smell. Cooling? No smell to...

Shouldn't have been farting I guess, but what should I do?

Ok, so my mother is actually, straight up, retarded, and continued to use coffee scrubs in the shower despite me, a plumber, my father, and HER OWN MOTHER, telling her not to.

And now my shower isn't draining.

Plumberfreind went AWOL a while back, but he told me that getting coffee grounds out of the pipes requires like, industrial grade stuff.

Is there any way to unfuck my pipes?

>>1569309
Muriatic acid dissolves coffee.
But I'd not use it, if you have steel drain pipes.

>>1569309
get a plumbing snake

>>1569315
Or this, but looks like he has problem somewhere deep.
I used stolen steel cable and drill once, worked out I'd say.

should a pressure washer work and have water pressure without the nozzles/tip?

my dad got one of these pressure washers at an auction a few years ago and never used it:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Aluminum-3400-psi-at-2-5-GPM-HONDA-GX200-with-CAT-Triplex-Pump-Professional-Gas-Pressure-Washer-CARB-60735/300912604

i recently got it running but i don't have any nozzles for it. the first blast of water that comes out when i pull the trigger has a little bit of pressure but the rest of it is just a normal stream after that. I don't know if it's just because i need to buy the nozzles or if the pump is bad.

>>1569284
>are polarity-sensitive or not.
they're energized by AC
>>1569284
>only the two pairs of wires have different colors for each solenoid.
that's to indicate which is hot and which is cold water

>>1569335
>I don't know if it's just because i need to buy the nozzles or if the pump is bad.
It's a pressure washer, not a volume washer.
You need to apply back pressure to be able to tell if it works or not.
If you don't want to buy a tip to find out if it's working, borrow one from someone to test it.

Something strange happened yesterday.
My fan just stopped working so I unplugged it and put it into another socket and it worked fine. After a while I put it back into its original socket and it worked perfectly fine.
Now this morning I sleep with my TV on and it switched off in the middle of the night(no standby). And wouldn't switch on so I changed the plug to another socket and it's working perfectly fine.
I'll move it to the old socket when I come back from work.
But I find this rather odd. Anyone heard of this?

>>1569284
Appliance repair tech. Have never seen a washer solenoid where polarity mattered. In fact have yet to see any solenoid where polarity mattered to the solenoid itself.. there exists a very odd fridge design that uses a diode kit with polarity changes so that they can eliminate a relay on a control board..

My hot water tap leaks slowly when tightened down normally, and to get it to stop I really need to turn the knob a lot more. Though this turning doesn't face as much resistance as I think it should. I think this sounds like the washer is getting mushed up and will need replacing sometime soon, can anyone offer a second opinion?

So I have a (oldish) guitar with a broken bridge. Pic related. It's not my actual guitar, just a picture I found but I have the exact same problem.

Anyway I was thinking of buying some hide glue to fix it. Like a tiny bottle of Titebond Hide Glue. Bear in mind that this is a cheap, old guitar that I have no intention of spending a lot of money to fix. That's why I figured I could buy the tiniest glue bottle I could find and give it a try.

However, and this is my question, would it be a good glue job WITHOUT one of those long range C clamps? I do have a couple of clamps lying around, but none that would fit and reach the clamping job needed to fix a bridge like this. Buying one of those long range C clamps would make it more expensive than paying someone to do it, and that was the very thing that I was trying to avoid.

So my question is this: can I do a good glue job without one of those long range C clamps? i.e. applying pressure only on the top.

>>1569417
Arguably you could make a latching solenoid valve where the moving cylinder is magnetic and so a different polarity will either set it or reset it. I think this is how latching relays work, not sure about solenoid valves though.

Since there is no wood working general up

So I'm fairly new (really new honestly) to woodworking, so please bare with me.

I just finished making my first stupid fucking etsy tier decor thing for a family member. They were talking about how they liked it and I said I could probably make it if they let me give it a shot.

Honestly it came out slightly better than I thought it would, It's not perfect by any stretch and there are some glaring mistakes that piss me off looking at it.

But ya, TL;DR
'm new, first attempt ever making something like this, first attempt ever trying to "distress" anything, and I think it honestly came out pretty decent, at least the paint looks better than the ones on etsy I believe.

I'm pretty happy with myself right now /diy/.

>>1569437
looks good m8

>>1563055
Refrigerant charge, on off, with bells or without, is critical. With that said, contrary to popilar believe, you have a good amount of leeway. Precisely you want supwrheat or subcool readings, but..... You can get away without ducking up your system.

>>1569433
Epoxy will stick that down without requiring clamping force of any kind. But you could stack something up inside the guitar to provide enough support to just weigh down the bridge. Heck, even inflate a balloon inside the guitar to provide this support even, that would be neat to see.

>>1569301
>>1569338
>>1569417
>>1569435

Thanks lads, learned something new today - the direction of a solenoid's actuation doesn't depend on the direction of the current, but the direction of the winding.

>>1569486
> the direction of a solenoid's actuation doesn't depend on the direction of the current, but the direction of the winding
Well a normal solenoid will just be an iron piece that's attracted to any stronger magnetic field, be it a north or south pole. Basically this means the iron piece will be pulled to the centre of the solenoid when it is on, and a spring pulls it back out when the coil is turned off again. The direction of the winding and the direction of current are both a factor in whether it will be a north or south pole solenoid, but in most solenoids it won't matter for the above reason.

In a latching relay, the piece is magnetised so putting current in one way will make the piece move in the opposite direction to putting current the other way, and there will be some sort of detent on either end to make it bistable. The magnet is mechanically coupled to the switch contacts. Pic related, I think.

Ive been trying to find an answer online. But I either lack terminology or the question is stupid.
Been trying to fix a broken pair of headphones (grado sr80e).
Decided to rewire so it connects with an aux on one side instead of fixed wires to both drivers. Since the cable to one of them was what was fucked.
Anyway don't have the wires for it so i cut a piece of an aux cord to wire from one side to the other thru the headband.
The issues is that the aux has 3 channels in it. Right left and ground im guessing.
But i only need to wire the left and ground for it. Meaning i will leave one wire inside the aux cable unused.
Is this ok?
I feel like it shouldnt be an issues but im a complete beginner. Any insight would be appreciated.

Can anybody explain heating cycle of on-off mini-split air conditioner with capillary tube?
It stops the indoor fan, starts the compressor, waits for some time, and starts fan again. Is it a defrost cycle?

>>1565689
>>1565688
maybe
DIVE PREP INCOMPLETE

>>1569443
seriously thank you, It's nice hearing it from someone that isn't "forced" to be nice about it you know.

Never trust female family member's compliments.

>>1565688
>>1565689
or perhaps since it indicates that it’s out of operability status either pre or post dive, what about something like
NOT READY TO DIVE
in choosing the wording you should consider who will be reading this and what you are trying to prevent them from actually doing. in other words, imagine the specific way(s) in which numbnuts will fuck things up and word it to prevent those specific scenarios.

>>1569437
i’ll be honest, it looks pretty nice.
since this is 4chan I feel obligated to say something negative but it looks so nice that the only mean thing I can say is that the slightly ambiguous proportions and the way the ears change color near the tips makes it look a little bit like a pikachu.

>>1569590
>>1569602
no problem. good point about this being 4chan, so... I thought it was some premade piece of crap your wife brought home from Target before I read your post. like your distressing looks the way a house wife wants her distress to look. So you basically nailed it.

I like the mismatched blue stripes on the top.

How did you do the distressing? stain then paint on top, then sandpaper lightly?

I like to age with a mix of vinegart / steel wool and tea. http://www.adomesticlife.com/natural-wood-staining/

>>1563055
How much do electricians typically charge to add a new circuit to your house? I need a 220v outlet for a mini split system.

>>1569650
And thanks, that's EXACTLY what I'm going for, the "cookie cutter POS store bought item", only handmade so I can charge 10x more you know?

I looked at some ETSY shit and noticed most of the "distress" was literally letting the pain dry and sandpapering it for like 10 seconds mainly because only the high points were marked.
>Pic related, it's shit.

did some test on wood from just brainstorming what "should" happen in my head, despite never really painting so most of it was nonsense honestly,

Ended up using latex paint, letting it dry for about 5 mins tops, and then when it's in that starting to harden still wet phase I blasted it with a cheap HF heat gun from about 2 feet away to where it JUST slightly started to bubble.

Once I saw any bubbles, I immediately took it away, then started going to town with 80 grit sandpaper until the desired level was reached, and then let it dry on it's own.


The Idea was that the heat distribution and bubbles would be fairly random, and raise the paint above the grain so instead of just the high points, fairly randomized parts of the paint would be "distressed" and thus look WAYYY more natural than pic related as far as actual old age goes.

>>1569726
shit lol. When I first looked at theirs, I Was like "that looks fake", but now I look at yours and it looks clunky. Like.. I'd want the second one in the room with my baby. I'd also work on the ears a bit and the bow.

Your distressing looks good - don't get me wrong, but it might be too good. I also like the slightly greener shade of paint fwiw.

like, distressed is good, but you don't want to feel like a bodega that you are about to get mugged in front of.

>>1569420
What brand?
post a pic of your tap

>>1569758
You have a good point lol, granted it is made for a porch.
Sadly though I doubt that was their reasoning with their paint, given that its the "lazy approach" 99% chance thats it.

The color was actually selected by the ""trendy"" women in my family, apparently its "super in" right now as was evident that they had everything from picture frames to furniture to fucking pillows in it.

Why? Who the fuck knows with women but that color is legit catnip to them.


My aunt showed me all kinds of reclaimed wood stuff in hee house, and how much she paid for them
... I feel like i hit a gold mine honestly.

>>1569433
Have you seen Japanese woodworkers?
They don't use clamps.
They literally just tie the whole thing up really tight with leather or rope.

I've got an old Ninja 250 that I need to do some welding on. I need to weld a mirror onto the handlebars, weld the gas tank bolt holes shut, and fix the kickstand.

I'm very green with welding, so what would my best bet to do these projects be? It's all old painted steel. Would a regular MIG fillet weld be enough to hold the mirrors? That's my first project here.

Thanks in advance.

>>1569726
On this one not only does the distressing look like shit but the proportions are crap and the paint like layout looks like shit.
Yours is legit way better, it makes this one look like the knockoff by comparison
>4chan posting policy
umm, the way you tied the bow makes me suspect that you are a homosexual

>>1569927
sorry the paint line layout

perhaps it is I who is the honosexual

>>1569769
>Sadly though I doubt that was their reasoning with their paint
I agree with you - that it being simple is important, but I do think there is a level of classiness to the fake distress ( we're "shabby" chic - not actually shabby ).

I know what you mean about that shade of blue - I just think a bit more greenish "seafoam" is better. But we mostly do hipster craft-fairs and shit. Also I like the bodega look, just might be a bit too authentic for your target market.

Don't get me wrong - you did an awesome job, I'm just digging into some of the more subtle things.

>... I feel like i hit a gold mine honestly.
the competition is fucking brutal, I'll just say that. Where is she buying her crap - etsy? Wayfair and Walmart have the crappy distressed furniture look on lockdown. Does Target or other places carry items like that rabbit?

>>1569926
dont weld any of that ffs. bolt your mirrors on to the ends of the handle bars like a normal person if you want to relocate them. most of those pieces are cast aluminium or steel so you want be able to weld to it properly anyway.

as for the tank, unless you have a tig welder, dont bother. you arent going to get a clean enough weld and the gas will just destroy the weld from the inside out quickly

>>1563055
Very critical. Bigger units have the ability to allow for fluctuations with condenser flooding and TX valves and such but small capillary systems dont. these are known in the industry as critically charged systems which means you need to weigh in the charge.

that being said, dont build such a system. you dont know enough to get it right.

I just dumped about a half bottle of lye into my sewer drain and now it's making fumes, is this a hazard and am I going to be arrested if the neighbors complain? It's not overfilling the drain access hole and it's 20' away from the house, so I'm not really worried I just want to know. The drain itself is a 5 or 6" cast iron pipe so it's not gonna melt.

Context: sewer drain was really backed up, I mean totally plugged full of shit that had the consistency of mud. Line isn't broken and it's not overfilled so I had to go in.

>>1570147

pic, best I could get because it's under a tree and it's dark

>>1570147
>>1570151
the first step is to find out what the fumes are. Get down close and sniff them to check for chlorine odor, and then drop a lit match or sparkler down there to check for hydrogen evolution.

>>1570152

I'm not that dumb, this smells like burning shit and I don't want my neighbors to call the cops.

>>1570147
how concentrated is this lye and how much is half a bottle? Regular clog remover in the country i’m in is an 800g bottle of 1.8% sodium hydroxide with an unspecified amount of sodium hypochlorite and surfactants mixed in.
a little nasty but it’s not going to gas the whole town

>>1570156

1lb of 100% pure crystals plus about 1lb (2 cups) of water. So, probably 50%?

>>1570163
wew

well I don’t know about your local laws about what you can dump down the sewer or what your neighbors are like so I can’t say anything but
>Similar to the hydration of sulfuric acid, dissolution of solid sodium hydroxide in water is a highly exothermic reaction[14] where a large amount of heat is liberated, posing a threat to safety through the possibility of splashing.
you’re probably boiling the shit out of that shit down there as well as saponifying the fats in the poo, in effect you are making poo soap.
if you have a bucket of activated charcoal with a mesh bottom you could put that over the hole and maybe cut down on the smell a little, you probably aren’t going to kill anyone or destroy anything but try not to draw attention to it I guess until the shitstorm dies down

>>1570151

update

The lye cleared it at the sewer connection, but the plastic top to the access hole broke off. This is concerning as there is now what appears to be a small leak going down my driveway. Filled the tub, it drained into the toilet for some reason, but the toilet itself is slowly draining. I think the clog is somewhere inside the house.

>>1570167

thanks for the advice

>>1563055
I got a bed pretty close to a wall horizontally and would like to be able to lean against it when I'm sitting on it but without leaving marks and stuff on the wall paint. So I thought I could put a panel or something on it, what would be a good material for this? A roll of it to nail/glue preferably. Also is this normal at all?

I just bought a portable 18" dishwasher that hooks up to the faucet, and this is a line from my apartment condo regulations - "No fixtures shall be installed to the existing water and sewer system, i.e., clothes washers, as
the plumbing system is inadequate and was not built to handle such fixtures and chemicals." This can't possibly apply to just hooking up a portable dishwasher to the kitchen faucet, right?

>>1566664
So (for example) an 11.1v 3000mAh LiPo is fine?
How does it work? 11.1v gets divided into 5.55V and goes to each component?

I was mainly concerned about efficiency and convenience, perhaps there's a better that isn't a LiPo. A bit worried having those close to my face while using the scope.

The fact that its very easy is why I've taken it up. I have no experience working with electronics before (I will do kits after I finish this).

>>1570302
what they're trying to say is that if everyone in the complex tried to install real deal washing machines, the plumbing for the whole building would be overloaded.

Just don't tell anyone you have it and you will never have any problems.

>>1570323
cheers

>>1570314
>11.1v gets divided into 5.55V and goes to each component?
No, they're in parallel so everything gets 11.1V. Dividing it wouldn't work at all since each part would want to draw a different current. As far as battery safety goes, read this:
https://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pdf/hyperion-g5-50c-3s-1100mah-lipo-battery-User-Guide.pdf
Haven't read it myself, but I'm assuming it covers cell balancing and charge/discharge protection circuitry. If not, look for guides on those.

My bathroom exhaust fan is very strong and loud. I'm seeing speed controllers on amazon, but they're all very loud and would not fit in the fan housing. is there some basic plug I could buy or make with a resistor to step down the power by 3/4, or half?

Hello, I'm asking this for a friend who moved to a nice new apartment. Being turd world college students, price is kinda key here, raw materials are surprisingly very fucking expensive.

My buddy wants a floating desk. 180x60cm, and he's thinking of building it out of 18mm thick melamine with three or four of these (https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-618150488-mensula-oculta-invisible-de-23cm-para-estante-mundo-cima-_JM?quantity=1&variation=32237474357)), except much larger and in a 1cm thickness and ideally like 40 or more cm long, to support it. Basically he wants a floating shelf but big and sturdy enough to be a desk, with a desktop computer on it and all that being a desk implies.

The questions are;
>can it be done in 18mm melamine or is it gonna go (c)rack city on his ass as soon as any weight goes on?
>are the supports adequate?

I suggested building a frame out of pine 2x4s and then covering it with whatever shit he wants on the outside (he specifically wants a metallic edge, thankfully aluminium L-profiles are cheap and it's just a few 45 degree cuts, sanding, drill some holes and screw into side), but since I'm just a long time lurker here who wishes he had the funds to do the kinda stuff in here, our combined experience and availability of woodworking tools is basically null.

I got this pair of 6v lead acid batteries out of a portable mains invertor thing - already wired in series functioning as a 12v battery.

I used it for busking for a good while with no trouble but I tried it out the other day for the first time in about 3 years and it doesn't seem to charge.

I had it charging for several hours and the reported voltage never gets beyond about 7.

Someone told me that you can "jumpstart" batteries like this with a higher voltage source (20v maybe) but that sounds like it could be bullshit.

Is there any way to revive it?

>>1570490
clean out the dust first before you think of buying anything

>>1570505
I don't know how things are in Argentina, but in America, you can buy hand tools used for very cheap.
When it comes to new hand tools, the expensive stuff is usually more precise, or stays sharp longer, or needs less polish to get it working well, or just works better.
There's nothing wrong with cheap stuff, but except for saws (you will need to sharpen them), you can usually buy stuff used for cheaper that will work better.

>melamine
never worked with it. anyways it's more about how you build the base than the tabletop.
personally I would use plywood in the same thickness. Baltic Birch is the good stuff up here, probably different down there.

>>1570534
>melamine
I think he meant laminated particle board.

>>1570490
A resistor wouldn't work (or at least not for very long), a capacitor might make the issue worse, arguably a big choke/transformer coil would work, power factor be damned. But a normal dimmer that's supposed to work with motors should be a better option.

I'm poor as shit, what are some self defense weapons i can build myself with accesible parts?

>>1570540
you can buy yourself a hi-point from your local drug dealer for like $70
easier and better than building a slam-fire pipe shotgun, also you will be able to say you gots a "glawk 45 this is my problem solver"

>>1570538
Yeah, exactly that.

>>1570534
That's the thing, there is no base, it's floating. My buddy's basically expecting to use what are essentially 4 very, very, very long screws about a half inch in diameter to hold the entire tabletop (slab o' melamine) into the wall. The idea to make an underlying frame out of 2x4s was my idea and seems infinitely more rigid and stable, but he doesn't want to do that because between him and me helping out, we have no experience or real tools so fuckups are likely. Buying a single saw just to make the cuts not be complete shit is probably gonna cost more than all the materials so he's never gonna do that, which leaves me in the sticky situation of thinking this is a very bad idea and likely to fail in no time after it goes up but having no better idea that he'll accept. In the end it's no skin off my bones but I'd rather not have my friend waste a bunch of time, money, and possibly destroy a computer and two monitors if that thing doesn't hold up.

>>1570542
Maybe something less lethal to stun of incapacitate, i don't want to kill people.

>>1570546
It's a sad truth that if you don't kill the other person, you can be liable to pay their medical bills for the rest of their lives.

On the other hand, if you use a gun and you kill them, at worst you will pay for their funeral.
And don't bother aiming for the legs or whatever. That would be proof to the judge that you weren't in a life threatening situation and used excessive force. mag-dump center mass.

>>1570540
Two pipes, smaller one can fit a 12 gauge shell inside but holds the rim so it doesn't slip through. Larger one is a nice snug but not too tight fit, should be able to slide the smaller one inside. Stick an end cap on the larger one, glue a nail on the inside of it. Operation should be self explanatory.

Or if you wanna get real low tech get a thick straight-ish branch, whittle it down to something nice if you want, cut a deep notch for and lash a sharpened piece of scrap metal on the end, and go full post-apocalyptic wasteland spear. Truth of the matter is, a sharp piece of old computer case side panel between the ribs will do quick work of anybody.

>>1570552
>sharp piece of old computer case side panel
those did quick work of my hands even before they ever became someone's ghetto-rigged spear

>>1570551
Not if it happens in the middle of the street, my house is safe, me walking to my house at night is what i need protection for.

>>1570551
>mag-dump center mass
110% t h i s
If an african american youth happens to wander into your home at 2AM to ask if you'd like to pray with him, he's automatically fair game for a dozen bullets to the chest. Do not attempt to simply wound, you WILL get in a shit ton of legal trouble of this.

>>1570543
floating does not mean there is no base.
Look up cantilever design.
The simplest thing you can do is use a bent piece of square tubing as your base. The longer the better.
>how do I bend square tubing
You fill it with ice or sand and then use a lot of force to bend it like a gorilla. Be creative.

>>1570563
Yeah, my friend was going to use something that's along the stupid line. Thanks for the input.

>>1570286
for stuff abutting the walls here I use stick-on felt or sponge padding but ymmv depending on how much force your bed applies, ie if it’s round hardwood posts.

>>1569435
Latching solenoids in an appliance are a bad idea since they’re usually used to let water fill something and you very much want those to default to “off” with no power... latching relays generally have the coil for the relay connected to the output of the relay as well as the trigger button so that when the relay closes the power it’s letting through keeps the coil energized until power is interrupted somewhere upstream of the relay.

>>1570481
>parallel
Ah, thought so. I couldn't visualize how the splitter does that.
I'm aware of LiPo usage and safety. The project is actually for airshit where everything is LiPo powered (unless you use NiMH). It's just an inherent fear I got. I was mainly wondering if Li-Ion batteries would be more efficient, or any other small and portable power source (not counting lead acid).
Cheers!

>>1570635
If the battery itself has overdischarge protection (which I think drone batteries and such do have) then you won't need to worry about anything else with respect to them. Provided you have a fuse such that a short-circuit fault doesn't burn your project. Lithium ions are basically the best you're going to get for general use, except for extreme current:capacity ratios where (super)capacitors start to take over, or incredibly low current requirements where energy harvesting (solars or antennae) can supply all your needs.

>>1570506
>pair of 6v lead acid batteries
>wired in series functioning as a 12v
>voltage never gets beyond about 7.

measure the voltage of each battery
throw away the dead one

My LEDs keep dying after just a few months. They're in a non enclosed fixture in a dry environment. When they die, they just make a fast clicking noise when I turn the power on. What is going wrong with these things? I thought they were supposed to last like 10,000 hours.

>>1570661
Take it apart and post pics. The top dome part is likely glued onto the opaque part, and if you need more than that you'll need to peel open the edison screw at the bottom. If you do it right, you could repair the thing with a replacement capacitor or resistor or something and glue it back together.

>>1570661
It’s probably your voltage thingamabobber
Is your mains power clean? Do you have a lot of vibration? Are you buying the house brand from from Chang McWang’s discount LED emporium or are you buying Japanese folded 4000 times honorable LED bulbu?

>>1570663
>>1570664

>>1570684

>>1570685

>>1570684
uh oh
looks like your magic smoke came out of the shiny thing in the middle
arcs can make a clicking sound too

>>1570684
Want to clean up what's around that centre couple of solder pads? Looks like something shorted and burnt out.

>>1570686
seeing the other side of this board might help also

>>1570691

>>1570692
I think he meant the other board, the one with the LEDs and burn marks on it

>>1570694
fuck wait no he didn’t sorry. Although Id be interested in seeing the other side of the burned board

>>1570696

>>1570697
Hmm? What happened to the soldered part that was surrounded by burn marks in this pic >>1570684 ? If I had to guess the clicking sound you heard was caused by an electrical arc jumping around that area, I’ve had similar phenomena with burnt switches

>>1570692
Ok looks to me like a constant-current flyback controller, I assume that the big THT resistor on the top of the PCB is the current sense resistor. Can't find a datasheet for whatever that IC is though. Nothing wrong on that board as far as I can see, the only part that could get hot on there is the sense resistor and it looks fine. Whatever happened in the interface between your boards is what went crackle pop, but it's hard to see what happened there without brushing it off with some IPA. It doesn't look like a simple soldered joint with nothing else but the two boards, perhaps it's some sort of plastic part between the two to keep them aligned and it melted from the heat? Either as a cause or an effect.

So far i've had very bad luck with LEDs.

Almost every GE brand LED bulb i've had starts randomly flicking on/off after a few months. About 1 in 3 Sylvania bulbs just dies after a few months and just makes clicking noise.

At this point, i'm thinking im better off with rough service incandescent for how often I've had to replace my LEDs.

>>1570698
although I should tell you that the other guy will probably give you better advice since i’m not an engineer, I just tear apart my broken stuff and look for bad connections

>>1570700
wish I could take a better pic, but that pad got wrecked when I pulled the board out.

>>1570700
this seems to be a recurring problem with this guy and his LEDs, i’m Wondering is there a lot of vibration in the mount? Does the light get mechanically torqued or bumped a lot? Sylvania isn’t dollar store garbage so it shouldn’t be having solder joints fail unless there is some unusual force acting on them.

nephew is turning 5 this year

is it too early to buy him real tools? if not, what sort of stuff should I get him?

>>1570706
I think it's more likely to be thermal stress, that's an aluminium-backed PCB without any heat sink fixed to it, I'd go for one of those ones with aluminium ribbing on the outside instead. Thermal stress of leaving it on too long caused the solder joint to crack (or melt), it broke contact, arcing occurred, and the resultant UV destroyed the piece of plastic holding the pieces together. The individual modules should still be usable if you solder them together and put a heat-sink on the LED board.

>>1570706
This is the fixture, 3 bulbs.

>>1570710
I tried some regular dollar store 60w incandescent bulbs and I can hear a high pitch whine coming from the bulbs. I tested the voltage of the socket, it' 124.5V.

>>1570708
vuvezela, permanent marker, drum kit

>>1570712
I don’t think incans are supposed to whine unless you’re on a dimmer right? Most LED bulbs can’t handle dimmer circuits as far as I know

>>1570709
>>1570710
this is a definite possibility as that fixture probability builds up a lot of heat with three bulbs and those LEDs don’t seem to have any heat sinking whatsoever unlike most of the bulbs I have.
still i’m somewhar concerned with the whining sound. I just plugged in an old incan bulb I have and there was no sound whatsoever, I have lousy old man ears now I guess but I remember as a kid that only dimmer circuits made noise

>>1570726
Whining could well be the flyback transformer, like what you'd get from a CRT TV.

>>1570702
do you have Panasonic or Toshiba bulbs there? I don’t want to sound like a weeb but they only sell Japanese brands here and the things are built like tanks. Externally at least because I haven’t ripped them apart but the mass of aluminum enveloping the things feels like a CPU cooler

>>1570728
He was saying that the dollar store incandescent bulbs he tried are now whining, which shouldn’t be the case as there shouldn’t be anything other than pure resistive load unless there’s something else going on in the circuit.
a cfl or LED whining is perfectly normal as you say.

>>1570728
Specifically he said here:
>>1570712
Are modern dimmer switches PWM? Depending on what he used to test the voltage that could give a normal AC mains voltage reading because of the way PWM works (duty cycle) but I could see it hosing up the LED bulb electronics if they aren’t specially designed to handle it, which I think they aren’t unless you buy a bulb specifically labeled to be dimmer switch compatible. None of mine are because i’m cheap and poor

>>1570733
Well the dollar-store ones might just be capacitive droppers, and those shouldn't whine.

>>1570661
they suck, I've had plenty die within a year. they should have some guarantee, start saving the packaging.

>>1570661
LEDs "last forever", however the chink controller electronics do not.

Light bulb OP here. This circuit is not on any dimmer switch. I'm going to have a buddy come over next week and scope my mains and see what's going on.

I'm trying to understand bar/psi pressure. What I want to do is to have a large rain barrel of 210 liters(55.4Galons). Near the bottom I would connect an electric valve something like this:

https://magneetventielshop.nl/100054-medium_default/5105nc-12vdc-magneetventiel-2weg-012inch-nylon-0p2-10bar-nbr.jpg

This thing requires a minimum of 0.2 bar.(2.9psi) I have no idea if the weight of the water is enough to create the required pressure. I don't know on which phrase should google to figure this out.

Anyone have any advice how I could calculate water weight or something? Thanks.

>>1570786
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inch_of_water
1 inch water = ~0.036PSI

>>1570788
Thank you that answers my question.

>>1570505

hang that shit from the roof? one rope in the middle on each side plus something securing the back of the desk to the wall

>>1570795
>something securing the back of the desk to the wall
A hinge so it wouldn't put too much stress in the event of the ropes stretching/breaking, but I don't think that's what he meant by floating desk.

does my diode alright? because the temperature is really hot when i put my 1n4007 in my 1 amp multitap transformer

>>1570660
But they've never been used individually - always as one battery.

>>1570786
Hydrostatic pressure is calculated by following formula:

p = h * ro * g

where
"p" is pressure [pascal]
"h" is depth, distance from the surface [m]
"ro" is density of the liquid [kg/m3] (998 for water)
and "g" is a gravitational constant = 10 N/kg

So, your valve must be:
h = p / (ro * g)
below surface.

In your case:
h = 20000 / (1000 * 10) = 2 meters

That's a big barrel

>>1570945
https://www.reddit.com/r/NoStupidQuestions/comments/2d2nf7/what_happens_to_conjoined_twins_when_one_dies/

they’re probably both fucked then but basically what’s probably happening is that one of the batteries is dead and the other one is still functioning.

>>1570708
>real tools
nah, he won't be able to appreciate being able to use them because he won't have anything he wants to do with them.
I'd say start with making him want to do stuff with tools before giving him tools, but you're not his dad.
Lego Mindstorms comes to mind for rich families

>>1570951
Jesus, thanks anon. Looks like I miscalculated.
I'll have to work with 12 volt water pumps then.

>>1570954
As I had nothing to lose I thought I'd try charging each 6v battery individually off the 15v charger. It seems to be working.

>>1570991
Or just lift the barrel up a few feet on to a stand.

I have a device that needs a 12V/1.5A input from a barrel plug. I also have a laptop charger with the exact same compatible barrel plug connector, but the rated output is 16V/4.5A. Can I use the 16V charger with the 12V device?

>>1571102
>Can I use the 16V charger with the 12V device?
depends on the device which you didn't describe

>>1571134
it's a consumer-grade Netgear router

>>1571102
The charge voltage is meant to be greater than the battery's nominal voltage. For a 12v lead acid battery the charge voltage is about 15v.

>>1571148
The extra voltage would probably damage the router.
As long as the power supply can provide 1.5A or more it will work if it's 12 volts.
The danger comes from the 16 volts, not the 4.5 amps.

>>1571102

I want to make my own keyboard/synthesizer piano.
Any ideas where to start? I have some knowledge of circuits and programming from my EE courses.

>>1571171
these adapters are usually very shitty and have terrible coil whine in my experience, so I don't want to buy the $3 product, and I'd rather use what I have than spend $10 or $15.. but alas I guess I must spend it

Is the Kill-a-Watt still recommended to buy? Or is there some better product for cheaper since it's name-brand?

>>1570904
They're only made for half a watt or so, and 1A through a silicon rectifier means about half a watt or so, so I'd go for a schottky or a larger diode package if you're worried. It might be fine as-is though, and you could always thermally glue it to an existing heat-sink. What's the use case?

>>1570991
You'd need the pump anyways since if the barrel wasn't full it would have even less pressure. Assuming you can't put it up on stilts. It might be more efficient to pump rainwater into an elevated tank than to pump water out of the low-down tank, but that also depends on when you want to be able to hear the pump. Still, in the event of a power outage I'd like to have a reservoir of water already with a head of pressure.

>>1570951
tl;dr 10m per atmosphere/bar of pressure

Daft question, I'm not a handyman or anything so I don't have a clue.

I have a vice in my shed that I want to remount somewhere else, problem being is whoever mounted it initially put mounting bolts in that aren't hex head, they're round, meaning I can't get a decent enough grip on the head to hold it in place while I unscrew the nut on the bottom, it just spins.

What's the easiest way to get it out? I don't have any power tools to cut a slut in the top or flatten the sides, but I do have a local lidl where I might be able to get a file or some such. I've tried with the cheap pliers I have in the house and they don't give me enough grip to stop it from spinning.

Light bulb guy here from last night. I took apart another one that was doing the same thing. I started probing at the chips with a plastic pick and noticed that if I stabbed chip D5 the rest would momentarily flash. So I removed D5 and if I short across the pads with a screwdriver, the rest light up like normal (actually a little brighter). Can I just put a blob of solder where D5 used to be?

>>1571293
Pic taken at low exposure, I'm still seeing spots from how bright it was.

What's the standard kitchen faucet o ring size? Every accessory I've screwed into my faucet has gone in fine, so I gotta imagine it's the default size. Gonna stop at the hardware store tomorrow to buy an o ring

>>1571293
>>1571300
Oh so one LED failed open? Yes shorting it should work fine since it's a constant-current driver. I have to wonder if the central connection is supposed to look that shitty though. Did this one make popping sounds?

>>1571307
Take it apart and measure it before you buy one, you're going to have to take it apart to put a new one in anyway.

>>1571324
No popping sounds, just fast clicking until I short the bad LED, then it's silent, when I remove the short it starts clicking again. The clicking sounds like it's coming from the board inside the base. I'm not seeing any arcing. The voltage across the pads is 65V.

>>1571357
It might not be voltage regulated since it's a constant-current supply, so with an open-circuit fault condition you'll end up with the flyback converter ramping up the voltage to try and reach that current limit with nothing to tell it to stop. In that case, the part with the lowest relative voltage tolerance on either end of the flyback transformer will allow some current to flow. If this was a semiconductor or capacitor this current flow would destroy the device, so considering there aren't any visible skid marks and the circuit is still working, I wager this current flow is happening between the windings of the flyback transformer. This will have burnt away that tiny bit of enamel insulation, but in normal operation the voltage will not be high enough to jump across that barrier. It's probably on the primary side of the system, since the ~30V side managing to short any windings would be indicative of spectacularly bad insulation. So I guess the main switching transistor has higher voltage tolerance than the transformer insulation, which is a little odd, but not out of the question for a 600V FET and something made for 120V mains.

>>1571292
good luck trying to cut into metal without having anything to cut into metal

I have a bunch of old fallen off fencing timber and want to break down an old home made dog house the rpevious owners made as well as cut down a tree trunk to smaller pieces.

what sort of electric/motorised power tools do I need for this?

>>1571293
>Can I just put a blob of solder where D5 used to be?
Use a good diode from the other failed one to repair this one.
Save the rest for future repairs.

>>1571460
you think they had power tools hundreds of years ago?
a reciprocating saw will make short work of dimensional timber if you have money burning a hole in your pocket
>a tree trunk
A whole tree trunk? A stump?
Lumberjacks have portable tree mills expressly for turning trees into slabs. It's not something you can reasonably do with hand tools

>>1571513
>turning trees into slabs
He said >>1571460
>cut down a tree trunk to smaller pieces.
think firewood - not lumber

>>1571548
log splitters are pretty sweet and not particularly dangerous.

>>1571498
not him but are SMDs like that hand-solderable without totally destroying the diode? I know I couldn’t solder it, i’m just wondering if there’s somebody who can.
supposedly some guys use hot plates for reflow if I recall, but...

>>1571513
>>1571548
>>1571553

it's mainly cut down plants and random bits of garden wood down to throw them out and fit them into the bins lol

Just had a third bulb die this evening. Same thing, one of the LED chips failed open, if I short across it the rest light up. Pic related is bulb before teardown. These are

Sylvania General Purpose
A19
800 lumen
2700k color
Non-dimable
Indoor/Outdoor rated

What should I replace these with that isn't gonna crap out after less than a year? I don't have the budget to spend $20 on each bulb or anything crazy. Looking at around $5/bulb max.

>>1571598
save your packaging, contact them. get replacement. most of these have multi year guarantees

>>1571601
Too late, i've long since tossed the packaging and I've tore apart all of the currently dead ones. I just want bulbs that will last the rated life printed on the box.

>>1571598
I can only assume that the LEDs are dying due to thermal stress, as overheating can't cause thermal runaway with a CC supply. In that case, try to get the lamps with external heat sinks. If you don't mind getting them from aliexpress you should find them for that price rangem, though they may be less reliable for other reasons. Perhaps have a look around Big Clive's YT channel to see if he has any well-rated LED bulbs.

>>1571604
seconding that, maybe you can find older models of bulb on clearance at your local hardware store? Earlier bulbs tended to be overbuilt but a little less efficient, they often get heavy markdowns compared to the newer ones because stores want to dump their stock. Or maybe you can try some that are rated for sealed enclosures, as those are meant to get hot and are probably more durable with regard to temperature cycling.

>>1571602
> I just want bulbs that will last the rated life printed on the box.

I hear ya. I'm just saying, moving forward - save the packaging proof of purchase.

Any tricks to making sure these lights I put up are all parallel? I guess I will measure equal distances from the wall, put marks there, and move along the axis of the light.

Any easier way to do this? It's a pita to keep the tape measure stuck to the ceiling by the wall.

>>1563055
I need to attach a chain to a post to make a barrier, one side I'll use a D-shackle and a padlock, but how do I secure the other side so that it can't be easily opened
>inb4 weld, I don't have the equipment for that

>>1571626
tie a string from end to end on each run, make sure the string is parallel and whatever you do, don't touch the string afterwards

>>1571576
for an individual diode of that size, it can be hand soldered as a single part

>>1571598
>Looking at around $5/bulb max.
Dollar Tree sells a '60w' equivalent for $1

Can you leave a lead acid battery on charge indefinitely? I read about "float charge" but is that for a set time or can I leave it on charge all day and night in preparation for when I use it, or will that fuck it?

Why do I love tools but never really actually diy?

>>1570598
Not much, actually the bed doesn't directly touch the wall by a centimeter or two. Stick on felt huh, sounds interesting, I'll look into it. Thanks anon.

>>1571861
>"float charge"
Is the term for a charge rate that can be safely left on indefinitely.

Make sure your charger supports a float charge before leaving it on.

>>1571798
ok, thanks.

>>1571946
It's a portable mains supply thing, that runs off a 12v battery. I now use it as a charger for the battery (it's shoddy for a mains power supply), which I use for other purposes. The thing has a 15v charger that you plug in to the side of it, so if you're okay to leave those things on charge indefinitely (which I'm hoping is the case) then it should be fine.

I'm using a different 12v lead acid battery now (the one that came inside it died) but it should all still work as normal, I assume.

I need to drill a few holes of 12mm diameter into an almost 100 year old brick wall.
Can I use a concrete drill bit with my cordless drill for that or do I need to buy an impact drill for that?

>>1571939
Why do i buy hundreds of shift registers and never use them?

How far could one expect to get cutting up a fresh corpse with a circular saw? Obviously that's a bad idea, but I'm working on a script where an uninitiated someone tries it anyway. Assume they're slicing off the arms, legs, and head.

>>1572156
Depends on the horsepower, blade diameter and tooth type, and how oafishly the attempt is made

I'm building a set of mid-scale tank treads and I'm in need of pins to link the links. for the proof of concept I just used some really long #6 screws, but they're threaded which won't be good for either the links themselves or the structural strength of the pins.

I'm looking for some kind of hardware that's:
>cheap
>has an unthreaded surface over at least 2-2.5" of length
>has some way to be constrained at either end
>something along the lines of ~3mm to 5mm or 1/8"-5/32" diameter.

Would prefer to not have to custom lathe a bunch of dowel pins with rings for circlips or something, but I guess that's an option.

Maybe I could use roll pins and drill oversized holes in the inner links and press fit holes on the outer links? shit would probably fall apart instantly under use though.

>>1572156
Crosscut or ripping saw?

am I better off with a small chain saw or a reciprocating saw?

mainly want it to break stuff down into smaller pieces to throw out.old fencing. plastic tubs/bins, random shit in the shed and the garage. bicycles, 1.5 square meters of tin metal (old cubby house roof). Small cubby house

>>1572299
Well I wouldn't take a chainsaw near anything but wood, if that answers your question.

Is there a tool that will allow me to keep two objects/parts of an object that tend to snap together separating?
I need something that will increase how spread out they are gradually.
Sort of like a car jack but small, if that makes any sense.

>>1572253
I was about to say “why not just use bolts with extra long unthreaded shanks” but i’m not sure if standard bolts are meant to withstand shear loading like that even on the unthreaded shank.

if you don’t want to use a lathe to make a circlip groove in some rods, maybe you could notch them with a pipe cutter?

What is this capacitor? It is blown out I need to replace it. I tried googling it and I can’t find it. I even asked a friend who is an electrician. I think it is a polypropylene. It’s on a power supply board for an old microscope.

i recently bought a pack of extra thin (1mm) cutting discs as many people reccomended them. problem is i cant find a way to secure them in my angle grinder. basically the first nur on the angle grinder sticks out slightly more than the diameter of the disc so there is no way to tighten the nut enough to keep the disc from wobbling. would it be okay to flip the first nut around so the flat side is facing down? Sorry for the stupid question but im new to this and dont want to screw something up. any help is appreciated

>>1571460
>electric/motorised power tools do I need for this?
pussy - use your elbow

>>1572382

>>1572552
>>1571513
think they had cars in the past? travel by horse or foot you pussies

>>1572549
the center of the cutting disk has to be centered on the shaft
cutting disks are available with different center hole sizes for different grinders
get something that fits before you 'explode' an abrasive disk

>>1572553
hey my dad has an ice scream scooper just like that

>>1572156
>Obviously that's a bad idea
why> seems like a decent solution. I guess my biggest concern would be the diameter of the blade. and how thick the limbs are. Chainsaw would work better. Can I freeze the corpse first? Drain it? what are my options here. Does it have to be a circular saw? can I use a sawzall?

>>1572554
>implying I'm not doing perfectly fine with my faster horses

>>1572414
It's not an aversion to lathes specifically, I'd just like to use an off the shelf part without having to do more than schnippen schnappen with some bolt cutters because I'll need like 200 of the fucking things.

How hard is it to build a device capable of melting steel?

My friend is obsessed with this idea, and he wants me to invest time in this project, but I have no use for melted steel. I believe he has no idea how much work and potential danger is involved, but I don't know.

>>1572846
Your average oxy/acetylene torch is capable of melting steel.

why do organic solvents give off so much odor when mixed with water?
like when i clean a bucket with iso and then wash it off again in the sinn

>>1572885
This, but diy induction furnaces are somewhat popular as an intermediate electronics project.

what is this used for, and why is it so expensive?

Moved into a new flat and I want to put some lino down in the kitchen. There won't be any underlay or anything underneath. I'm a complete noob when it comes to DIY, I'm planning on cutting it to size with a Stanley knife and then using carpet tacks to fix it to the floor. Does this sound ok?

how easy is it to change logs on the door? I rent and I want locks on my bedroom door and I was thinking I could do it myself.

The knob is an old one with the old type keys.

>>1563055
Yeah, make sure u have pressure popoff

>>1563263
Np