/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Inb4 first for pew pew

I'm loving the photon, I cant believe I waited this long to buy a resin printer

>>1561704
What's that blue resin? Looking to get some more, my initial supply is running out already. Also, where are those figures from? Surely you didn't buy them from Heroforge?

What CAD software do you guys use?

>>1561738
solidworks

>>1561738
Blender, Fusion 360

>>1561727
One of those is from hero forge, the rest are from the "Skyless realms" kickstarter
The resin is the anycubic brand light blue, I'm fairly inexperienced with the whole set up but it seems for some reason the translucent had better adhesion to the bed

>>1561743
I've heard translucents are better as well, might be since the light transmits through layers even though it's not actively being cured. I've got a bottle of some (non-anycubic) grey to mess with, will report back what I find with it.

What other machines and technologies do you guys use in conjunction with your 3D printing hobby?

>>1561765
Sandpaper, drill, hobby knife, acetone. Might be more but that's all that's coming to mind right now.

>>1561571

No, it's fucky alright. Now you see why the chinks like to turn off thermal runaway protection - one spike is enough to halt the machine.

>>1561765
I design and print ribs, forms and other tools for throwing pottery with on a wheel.

>>1561571
Looks like your thermocouple is fucked. Normally a broken cable means infinite resistance, which results in maximum temperature in most 3D-printers (so 20000C on a Duet), which means your is probably getting zero resistance. That means it's shorting, bypassing the thermal resistor (thermistor). I'd check your cables, but most likely failure point is near the thermistor itself.

>>1561738
Solidworks.

>>1561765
Mill, lathe, and a pretty well organised school workshop.

>>1561771
There's a difference between turning off thermal runaway protection, and giving your machine enough leeway to function properly. If you know your thermistor is bad, you should replace it instead of disabling the function completely.

>>1561743
Transparent resins cure better, thats why they stick better.

>>1561738
Creo, openscad, python, blender to fuck around with stl

>>1561738
>>1561765
If you are a programmer, I recommend trying out openscad (free and opensource) to create your .stl files. I found it easier to program stuff in openscad than to learn a CAD software. I mainly just make basic-shaped stuff to fix broken stuff or do simple jobs (new handles, knobs, brackets, etc), but I've done 22 original parts since 2016. The most complex part was a gray rotary encoder wheel. I process the .stl into gcode using Repetier/Cura. For other tools, I use a drill to accurately bore out holes, I have a set of taps for cleanly threading holes, and I use a set of cheap files for deburring and rubbing off elephant's foot. I use Vernier calipers for measuring broken stuff that I replace. I have a micrometer but it's overkill for this basic 3D printing stuff I do. I use a roll of blue paper tape that I bought from a tape shop so it is cut to the width of my bed and hairspray. That's about all I can think of, best of luck to you.

>>1561798
Not the guy you are replying to, but i find openscad so slow when rendering also limited in features. It is such a turnoff.

>>1561777
>There's a difference between turning off thermal runaway protection, and giving your machine enough leeway to function properly. If you know your thermistor is bad, you should replace it instead of disabling the function completely.

I guess they do it mainly because they can't guarantee good connections. Especially with most of them being sold as kits it makes sense to just disable it to avoid being blamed for customer errors. I also haven't seen any setting in Marlin that lets you specify a time for the firmware to wait for a sudden spike to clear up before it issues a halt.

Guys, i need to drive laser instead of extruder, can you tell me what do i change in Marlin 1.x FW?
I wish to keep everything else like before like it's still reprap type printer.
Imma trying to make laser resin printer, SLA i quess.

I was driving laser by steps pin of E0, but it deem to dark when getting to endpoints of sections. PWM is like slowing down on corners or something like that.

DIR output is constant signal with very short off when retract, but it doesnt wait untill it should turn on again.

I DO know about driving by D9 mosfet output like fan, but somehow i get only errors. Or it just flat constant signal.

>>1561826
>mechanically scanning with a laser
Do you realy want the worst parts of FDM and SLA combined?

>>1561802
It all depends on what you're making, I guess. The most complex thing I made was a gray rotary encoder wheel (~2016) and IIRC it took about 35 minutes for a final render on a 2011 i3 desktop w/Nvidia GPU card (don't remember which kind). Now I have a Ryzen 7 2700x desktop w/Radeon GPU card (I already forgot which kind, LOL). Last thing I made (this month) were clips to raise the height of my cubicle walls, rendering only took a few seconds but it's pretty simple. What kind of software do you use?

>>1561859
these
>>1561793

I have not tried openscad with a recent PC.

>>1561738
Fusion 360

>>1561798
>>1561859
>program
>render

Yeah umm, those terms don't make sense in the context of CAD for 3d printing. I'm not sure what openscat is, but I would avoid it just from that description.

>>1561738
openscad

>>1561875
Its like Tinkercad minus a GUI

>>1561798
>>1561859
>>1561864
>>1561876
>>1561877
>It is a script-only based modeller that uses its own description language; parts can be previewed, but it cannot be interactively selected or modified by mouse in the 3D view
>but it cannot be interactively selected or modified by mouse in the 3D view
Jesus why not go back to 1980's autocad. You could learn to use a real CAD program in the time it takes you to figure out how to make a part using boolean operations and grid coordinates.

>>1561892
and your problem is?

>>1561895
Dumb people shilling crappy products that wastes peoples time. Eventually these people come back to people like me for support when their memes stop working.

>>1561902
why should we care?

>>1561892
>he uses a mouse and keyboard
creating objects with a keyboard only is better and you know it.

In the process of trying to fix my prints I tried printing a model with a raft and noticed that as the initial layer is being laid the lines weren't consistent.
Pic related is my high quality rendering of what I mean.
It's like every x lines it's a little thinner, not in any pattern that I can tell. If I had to guess it'd occur between every 3-7 passes.
I'm guessing underextrusion but wasn't sure, any suggestions would be cool.

>>1561905
I dunno, but apparently you do. Why you do is for you to figure out.

>>1561908
Warped bed causing the nozzle to be too close and extruder slipping which makes a repeating THUNK noise and makes the extruder spin backwards suddenly.

That is my guess, observe while your raft is printing and see what the printer does.

>>1561916
Probably right.
The extruder itself is fine but I have noticed after a certain print height the nozzle starts scraping.
Would ABL fix this?

>>1561927
DIAGNOSE your problem before throwing money at it.

Yes and so would mesh bed leveling or a flat glass plate or destructive machining or grinding to flatten the bed.

>but I have noticed after a certain print height the nozzle starts scraping

You have other problems if your nozzle scrapes the print after it gets off the bed.

Like I said diagnose wtf is wrong first.

>>1561838
I dont think screen would be that better and its way cheaper to make cnc like xy mechanics.

And what kind of scanning do you mean?

>>1561933
I've tried man.
Glass bed, clean nozzle, live levelled, extruder calibrated and checked, x and y belts tightened, variety of bed/nozzle temps checked.
The only constant through it has been the filament itself which I've confirmed is near enough 1.75mm throughout.
I'll let this print run through and see if I notice anything.

>>1561942
Have you checked to see that your frame and axes are actually square to each other?

What printer?

>>1561947
Ender 3.
I'll try squaring it up after this print. Thanks.

So i decided to try some of that fancy průšament since it's supposed to be god's gift to fillaments as the reviews would have me believe... and it's kind of shit

So far i only used cheap gembird pla filament and went through about 10 spools of it with exactly 0 clogged nozzles and 0 problems with excellent results

I got the glow in the dark pla průšament for xmass and i finally got around to try it out today.

My printer uses bowden extruder and about once every 1 to 2 minutes i can hear a crack while printing, which signifies that the teethed wheel which pushes the fillament slipped on it a little bit.
Guess how many wheel skips i had with gembird? Yeah, 0.
Also, to touch, the průšament feels less "robust" that the cheapo gembird.

I tried printing out the origami carabiner with the průšament, it is an easy print, and i printed about 20 of them with gembird with zero issues.

Průšament managed to fuck up the clip part slightly. About 7% of it is fucked up, but enough to make useless.

I was really hype for the průšament, specially since it's manufactured in my country, but i was mostly let down.

And I didn't even yet that the fillament had several small pieces for colorful debree on it, when i pulled it fresh out of a sealed bag. Easy to brush off, but it speaks volumes about průša's quality control.

I recommend steering clear.

>>1561966
BUT to not only shit on it, it does actually glow really nicely

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgrade-Aluminum-Extruder-Drive-Feed-Frame-for-Creality-Ender-3-ender3-pro-3D-Printer/32956270122.html

Y/N?

>>1561980
people say it's a meme, I have one installed and I still get slips

>>1561980
get one with gear reduction instead

like the ones that used to be in the OP before some autist decided it was too long

>>1561980
Yes but with caveats. What people say on amazon is true, there are machining defects; it's possible to strip out the thread for the roller wheel because it's made too shallow and the swing arm rubs the base because the bushing is machined too short. You have to make a shim out of something.

>>1561984
>>1561983
>>1561982
Should I get this one instead?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CR-10-CR10-Extruder-Upgraded-Aluminum-MK8-Drive-Feed-3D-Printer-Extruder-for-Creality-CR10-CR/32977163376.html

>>1562004
just get a titan or bmg extruder

>>1562012
I don't want to spend that much thats why I got an ender 3

>>1562022
why are you upgrading it? What issue are you having that you need to fix?

>>1562022
a chink Titan clone costs less than the extruder you posted

>>1562028
My old one looks the same as this

>>1559846

>>1562033
And Why is that a problem?

>>1562033
What I did to fix that was just slip a foot of PTFE tube over the filament before inserting it into the extruder. Works pretty well, it's stiff enough to make the filament enter the feeder straight.

>>1561892
>>1561902
As I said before: if you are a programmer try out openscad (because it is free). I neglected to also say, if you can already program, you will learn how to do basic stuff in an hour or less and it will not be difficult if you already have basic skills in programming and geometry. If it doesn't work out, you can always try/use something else. In various companies, I worked with MEs doing either Solidworks or Pro-E that wouldn't consider taking a job with the other software because it took so long to learn. As I understand it, Solidworks standard package is ~$5000, and it would wouldn't work for me for the following reasons: too long to learn to do well, I only do basic stuff, using the mouse makes my brain hurt, I don't want to spend $5000 and I refuse to steal, for the first 3 reasons I don't want to try something cheaper, either. I don't know who you are and I've never asked anybody for help on this particular hobby. Hobbies are literally for eating up free time, too. I don't know why you'd consider trying new stuff a waste of time. However, I don't treat other people's time as worthless and I also don't appreciate being called dumb. For yourself, I recommend telling people, "no" when they ask you for help because there's obviously a reason you are bothered so much; maybe then you can get off your cross.

>>1561738
Wings3D because I insist on making CAD design as difficult as humanly possible.

>>1562189
>However, I don't treat other people's time as worthless
That is literally what you are doing when recommending something like openscat. I would tell some one to use google sketchup before wasting their time learning skills from the 1980's. What is it with you autists and using software that lacks complete functionality because you don't want to follow anything mainstream?

>>1561696

>>1562213
>"WAH! Why doesn't this software do the thinking for me?! Why do I have to think about what I'm doing while I'm doing it? Why do I have to think ahead instead of clicking a mouse?! I don't wanna use my brain! WAH!"

>>1562223
Yeah, autist. Called it. Go back to downloading different linux distros.

>>1562213
As if somebody couldn't tell in 15 minutes whether or not they wanted to use it or not. Seriously, you're like the, "stop liking what I don't like" meme from 10 years ago.

>>1562189
Just ignore that fucker
I bet this is the same guy who constantly whines about slicers being unable to measure generated paths like commercial CAM software

>>1562237
You're right, ofcourse. To everybody else, I don't know if you need to read this or not, but for most of us 3D printing is a hobby, not a jobby. Lots of ways to do this and have fun. Carry on.

>>1562221
I'm guessing the black thing is an elastic to make this thing shoot pellets?

>>1562237
Actually I was the guy calling out his autism just like I'm calling out this guys autism. Lots of free cad software out there that isn't shit, he specifically chose the least useful and most difficult to learn because

>"WAH! Why doesn't this software do the thinking for me?! Why do I have to think about what I'm doing while I'm doing it? Why do I have to think ahead instead of clicking a mouse?! I don't wanna use my brain! WAH!"

Apparently.

Should I just bite the bullet and get an Anycubic Photon?
Also is the Photon actually DLP or SLA? They wrote it down as DLP/SLA which don't really made sense since DLP: printing using LCD screens and SLA: printing using a laser beam with galvanometers.
Is there other SLA printers in the same price range worthy of consideration?

I owned an i3 Mega, but now that I want to delve into figure/model making, the FDM printing quality is falling very short.

>>1562221
I like multi-part designs with multiple print orientations. There are so many lines going everywhere you pretty much forget it's a printed object.

>>1561826
Use GRBL

>>1562012
Neither of them fits on an Ender 3 in the right spot

>>1562276
>Should I just bite the bullet and get an Anycubic Photon?
Yes.
>DLP or SLA
It's DLP (has an LCD screen), but a lot of people say resin printing in general is SLA.
>other printers in same range
None of the other 2-4 I've seen within $1-200 stood out very well. I've heard of leakage issues, failure to work, delamination, and other problems, but the Photon has gotten consistently good reviews.

It's a fun little printer and nowhere as "difficult" as most people make it out to be unless you ignore good practices. It's great for the price it is, and it didn't feel "cheap" at all to me.

I want to set up a printer farm manufacturing a product. I use a Prusa i3 but I can't afford 10 of them so I am tempted by the ender 3. However from what I've seen here it's seems notoriously unreliable and is the firmware safe? Can't make money If my factory burns down.

tl;dr would you recommend the Ender 3 for a company?

>>1562328
How much product are you already selling a day? What is the active duty cycle on your current printers?
How important is having a good quality product (vs. skipped layers, non-square, over/under extrusion, etc.)?
How much do you value your time?

>>1562333
>How much product are you already selling a day?
0
>What is the active duty cycle on your current printers?
15 hours a day
>How important is having a good quality product
It's mechanical so tolerances can't be bullshit. Finish isn't as important because it's not decorative but it still has to look professional to sell.
>How much do you value your time?
I have quite a bit of free time but I don't like to spend it on doing things I don't want to i.e fixing constantly broken printers

>>1562340
You want to buy TEN printers when one isn't even working full-time? And when you're not even selling anything yet?
>good tolerance and finish is important
>don't want to constantly fix broken printers
Invest in a Prusa, one at a time. As demand increases, get more of them. Cheap printers come with a host of issues despite what peoples say about them being "perfectly fine".

>>1562322
Alright thanks.
>nowhere as "difficult" as most people make it out to be unless you ignore good practices
yeah I have watched vids on youtube and it doesn't seem as messy as some people make it out to be

>>1562247
Three loops of 1/8" diameter elastic/bungee/shock cord.
It shoots half-length nerf darts

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223214/

>>1562328
>I want to set up a printer farm
>>1562340
You buy them one at a time. And you scale up as demand outpaces your ability to print the orders within a reasonable timeframe.

I started with one and could afford and needed a second after a month of sales. I've hit my ceiling where printing production outpaces the rest of my production process. I could squeeze another printer in the closet, but would run out of room on the shelf full of orders waiting for later production steps or packaging.

>>1562362
Hot damn, it's a nerf gun. That's pretty cool, to be honest. Have you thought about doing airsoft?

>>1562369
>Have you thought about doing airsoft?
Nope. That market is fairly saturated, and honestly I don't like interacting with airsoft people.

This is my design for full-length nerf darts. Performance ranging from 100 to 260 fps depending on a bunch of options.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

>>1562374
Have you made a bullpup version? I imagine if you used tension springs you could get more power into the darts.

>>1562376
>Have you made a bullpup version?
It's possible on the elastic-powered one because it's short enough for it to work. I just haven't gotten around to prototyping the trigger linkage that would be required. The full-length is just too damn long it to be feasible or comfortable. It's 31 inches long overall and the prime on the plunger/spring is 6 inches long due to it being based on 11-inch length compression springs.

>>1562376
>Have you made a bullpup version?
Yes and no. Bullpup setups are a big gimmick that have even more downsides when you have to prime a spring.

It's possible to do it on the elastic-powered one because it's probably short enough for it to work. I just haven't gotten around to prototyping the trigger linkage that would be required.
The full-length design is just too damn long for it to be feasible or comfortable. And I have hardware production that I don't want to up-end or complicate just to tick off a certain gimmick check box. It's 31 inches long overall and the prime on the plunger/spring is 6 inches long due to it being based on 11-inch length compression springs. That largely dictates what the form factor for the design has to be.

>>1562381
Proposal: bull-pup air actuated.
Under the barrel hang an air cylinder with a spring you cock however you want. Pipe air cylinder into the... 'bolt face'

Worst thing would probably be the linkage for stripping and feeding rounds

>>1562374
How about Tazer Tag? It's like laser tag but the vests tazer you when you get hit. Looks like you have a lot of room for the circuitry.

>>1562401
>the vests tazer you when you get hit.
Like legit fucking shock you? Or just an intense haptic feedback?

Just bought a glass bed for my ender 3

Does it go over the bed it has now or do I remove it and put it directly over the metal?

Look at this cute shiba

>>1562223
>"WAH! Why doesn't this software do the thinking for me?!
That's what good software should do, though.

>>1561738
Fusion 360
It's free and fast

>>1561798
>>1562189
Fusion 360 is so easy, it hurts. You need max. 6 hours of tutorials and you can to most stuff really quickly.
It is my first step into CAD and I never expected it to be that simple.
Pic related took me <1 hour

Start with this tutorial:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g

True power is unleashed when you combine both worlds and do scripting in Fusion.

>>1562461
Just use your head for this one

>>1562498
>scripting in Fusion
I'm intrigued, tell me more.

>>1562505
Fusion 360 has a Python API. You can do real fancy parametrized shit and all.
I think there are also some cool pattern gen scripts.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Roe2TRBY6Ko

>>1562349
Well not now, this is a future plan. And is running a printer 24h even safe?
>>1562368
>>1562349
>Buy Prusa one at a time
This sounds like a good idea, I will do this, thanks.
>>1562498
This, I upgraded from some shit 1990s bargain bucket software to Fusion and productivity has increased 10x. It looks scary at first but it's really easy to pick up and worth it trust me. The only think I am struggling with right now is drawing a geometric curve generated from a mathematical equation. Any ideas how to do this? Can you import a text file of the coordinates?

Ender 3 arriving very soon. Very cool!

>>1562368
Do you sell in the uk? Is there much demands from the uk?

>>1562613
>Do you sell in the uk?
Nope, East Coast US.

excuse the dumb question but is the prusa i3 any good with ABS? given it will be in a specifin enclosure?

Anyone have any experience with that?

Hey /3dpg/, i finally got my thermal camera up and running today and i thought you might be interested in some heated bed images. This is a standard aluminium 12V MK2A from china and as you can see, the heat distribution is pretty even, despite what all the marketing wank for the MK42 (and clones) would have you believe. The bed is set to 70C and the highest deviation from that is by ~2-3C at the top left corner. Worth noting is that the bed has a thin layer of printbite ontop, the borders between it and the bare aluminium can be discerned as "white-red" for the printbite and "pure red" for the bare aluminium respectively.

If you have any ideas on anything else you'd like to see imaged i'm open to suggestions.

>>1562641
Why not use PETG instead?
If your ABS warps too strongly you need to build a cabin around it. This depends heavily on the part geometry though.
Some anons made clever printer enclosures out of IKEA stuff.

(and a high-contrast picture of the "cold" corner reading as 67.4C)

anti-prusa pasta for later
https://pastebin.com/jYCv1Rri

>>1562653
kys
you didn't understand the discussion at all

>>1562650
Do you have one of those E3D hotend clones?
Would be interesting to see exactly where it starts to cool with different hotend temperatures.

>>1562655
unrelated but still relevant

>>1562656

Sorry, i only have an original Titan Aero installed. I also have a Hexagon if you're interested. The E3D clones are dirt cheap, might be interesting to check one out later.

>>1562650
>despite what all the marketing wank for the MK42 (and clones) would have you believe

I think many people look at the bed, see the white insulation in the middle covering the thermistor and then just assume that the bed is heated from the middle. In reality it has a thin resistor printed all over the backside which heats very evenly.

>>1562661

The old non-aluminium MK2s from years ago don't have very even heat distribution at the corners because PCB substrate isn't a great heat conductor. The aluminium versions rectify this pretty well by both conducting the heat and having enough thermal mass to store it. The MK42 is still made out of PCB substrate (but much thicker), so it uses a more clever pattern for the resistor traces.

>>1562651

I would like to use the printed part in a product, where it would need to be sanded and painted.

I should probably give PLA a go again, but I think its just to brittle for the application.

>>1562650
How the fuck can you afford a thermal camera with minimum wage?

>>1562713
>Implying poorfag
>Implying FLIR is still expensive

>>1562722
Isn't that what the military uses? Nigga we can't afford that

>>1562574
Ender 3 has arrived and it works, testing the doggie now

>>1562741
where do you get these ideas

>>1562741
Time to poke your head out of the cave, gramps; they've been racing to the bottom for years now. I'd imagine >>1562650 is using a USB cellphone dongle:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NZRJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jOdDCb780ATB9

If you can afford a printer, you can afford a FLIR.

>>1562758
>android version: $200 new
>ios version: $250 used
applefags btfo

>>1562713

https://www.flir.com/products/flir-one-gen-3/

>>1562741

The military uses much more advanced ones with high resolution and framerate. Flir makes the Lepton line for home use which are limited to a 9Hz refresh rate in order to comply with US regulations. Resolution is either 80x60 or 160x120 pixels depending on the model.

>>1562758

I bought a bricked one on eBay, took out the sensor, put it into a breakout board (pictured) that exposes the SPI and I2C pins into a header etc... There's a ton of open-hardware projects around these modules, they can also be hooked up directly to a raspberry pi if portability isn't a concern. I went with maxritter's diy-thermocam:

https://github.com/maxritter/DIY-Thermocam

>>1562768
>US regulations.
kek
what? burgers think some neckbear will build a heatseeking missile in their basement?

>>1562786
That's why consumer GPS receivers have restrictions too.
If they were usable for missiles, they'd count as munition in America.

>>1562407
They're legit products, so I imagine it's more like those "lie detector party games" that were around in the early 2000s. Enough of a shock that you'll jump back and women will scream, but nowhere near enough to actually knock you down.

Im designing a thing i would like to share in the future. The non-printable parts i would like to be the most common and cheap parts out there.
I have a 10-20mm diameter balljoint in the design and i have no idea what i could use that is easily sourcable and cheap. Obviously metal balls are expensive. What could i use instead?

>>1562811
how about metal spheres

>>1562810
Is it like oneof those fly swatter zappers?

>>1562768
I'm always disappointed by the frame rate and resolution of what i'm allowed to buy.

>>1562679
Neither of those things rules out PETG. Just saying.
PETG is a bitch to glue, though. ABS can be glued with normal glues, and also be acetone welded. But if you plan on bolting stuff together, or just printing single-piece of press-fit, it doesn't really matter.

PETG really is a delightful material to print with. If you want ABS strength but don't really need any of the other ABS specific things, PETG is a really good substitute. As easy to print as PLA, but you can do it without an enclosure.

>>1562813
Yeah, that's the exact level of shock you have in the party games, and more or less what I imagine tazer tag is like. It'll make you jump back and maybe swear, but it's not quite enough to be genuinely painful.

>>1562812

>>1562679
>>1562814
Yeah PETG is a super bitch to sand and almost impossible to paint. You're better off with ABS if the durabillity of PLA isn't enough for you.

>>1562811
Ceramic balls? They're used in ball bearings, you might be able to buy used large ball bearings from a scrapyard, if you ask nicely they might let you borrow a hydraulic press to "disassemble" them.

>>1562795
>>1562786
Yeah, I work with FPGAs and with the more complex ones I have to go through a fairly minor amount of paperwork saying what I'm planning to do with it and that I'm not planning to resell it, and that's because they're classed as military hardware. Consumer GPS receivers are not so much of a problem because most of them can be fooled pretty easily making them totally useless for building missile navigation systems and what have you, but some when combined with certain hardware like the FPGAs I buy can make them resilient to basic spoofs.

>>1562811
Print them. Printed ball joints work pretty well apart from taking a lot of material. Most of the ones I make are only ~4mm in diameter though. Try it all the same, you might be pleasantly surprised.

So I wanna upgrade from my shitty xmas desktop all-in-one-but-only-the-3D-printing-module-is-usable printer but I'm an IT student with nothing to spare but a few spools of PLA.

I've absolutely fell in love with my local fabrication lab's Prusa and I was wondering could I theoretically assemble one on my own using my 130x130x130mm printer and cheap Chinese parts..?

>>1562811
https://amzn.com/B003U2KPAK

>>1562832
Thats it

>>1562828
>>1562824
Thanks guys

>>1562768
>DIY FLIR from Ebay junk
Ooo, that sounds like a good project. Thanks, that's going in the queue.

>>1562831
You got one of these memes? What's wrong with the CNC and laser modules?

It's a shame they designed it the way they did. A couple of tweaks to the design would've made it capable of printing a much bigger volume.

2 threads ago some anon requested me to share my Raspberry Pi case desing.
Here you go:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453115

>1555226
>1555128

>>1562899
>reduced material demand
With the amount of skeletoning on that case, wouldn't the addition of walls around each hole outweigh the infill used without said holes, unless it's very high infill?

>>1562768
Oh wow, the future is amazing.

>>1562895
Spoopy, funnily enough one of the fablab guys talked me into it

Its CNC software is bogus, can't get F360 to operate it, I've burned through two printing modules and recently replaced the hotend because printing ABS is apparently really pushing the envelope.

That said I have made some sturdy tools with it I'm still actively using so that's a plus.

>>1562903
Well it's designed to be a 100% fill part. 2mm wall thickness.

>>1562891

No prob man, my suggestion is to go for the dead Gen2 models - they have firmware bugs with the battery charging logic causing them to brick themselves and go into a bootloop, so they pop up on the 'bay more often. The Gen2's also have the better 160x120px sensor in them, whereas the new Gen3's are split into 80x60px for the 200$ model and 160x120 for the 400$ "Pro" model. Less common sources are dead CAT S60 smartphones (80x60) and CAT S61 (160x120) but i was never able to find ones at a good price

>>1562831
>I've absolutely fell in love with my local fabrication lab's Prusa and I was wondering could I theoretically assemble one on my own using my 130x130x130mm printer and cheap Chinese parts..?

Yes. How do you think the first mendel i2 printers were made?

>>1562407
Discharge a 2000uF capacitor in specific skin pads.

>>1562831

You should be able to print all the plastic parts and get a bare frame kit offa aliexpress without problems. You can get the aluminium sheet cut locally too if the lab has the equipment. What type of electronics does it use?

>>1562906
>>1562895
It's probably beyond your skill level, but it should be totally possible to modify the mooz to use the full travel of the linear actuators. Really the only thing restricting it is the physical bed plate and the mounting points on the gantry. With some help you could possibly drill new holes to attach the 2 vertical actuators diagonally across the base and rotate the horizontal actuator by 45 degrees. Then print out some adapters to extend the mounting points on the gantry. Or just ditch the base completely and attach everything to a piece of box steel etc.

You would need to hack the driver board though unless the dobot software lets you manually configure the print volume. Oh and get/ make a new bed ofc.

Is anyone else having a problem with the "hairs" of stringing plastic getting sucked into their Ender 3 extruder fan? It was okay when I was printing PLA, upping the retraction to 6mm removed 99% of the stringing, but now that I'm printing PETG I'm getting way more stringing.

>>1562981
Yes. That's why I printed the hero me fan mod to angle the fan away. I've also seen people put intake shrouds to protect the fan even more. That does nothing for the blower fan though so I'm eventually going to replace it with two axial fans also angled up.

>>1562996
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2767047
Is the one I've thought about making. I have some really pretty "silver" petg, looks a lot like aluminium if you polish it with fine grain sandpaper.
Reason I'm going for such an oversized print head is because I have a pile of 40mm and 5015 fans laying around.

Buying a 3kg spool of transparent filament turns out to have been a mistake. Everything looks awful now because even though the infill is literally perfect, I can see where it connects to the walls as hideous zits just beneath the surface, I have to print seven walls thick just to hide that now, at which point the plastic is ugly, looks like milk mixed with water.

>>1563025
What was your thought process? "This filament that I've never tried before sounds really cool from the amazon description, I'll buy a fuckload of it so I can enjoy it for years to come."

Is the voron really as good as people make it out to be?
I'm stuck choosing between it or a dbot.

>>1563029
No

>>1563025
Clear PLA is tough as nails, or did you get PETG or something else?

>>1563030
It's PLA, and I'm perfectly satisfied with how it prints and how strong it is. It's just that everything I make with it turns out hideous. I wish I had bought plain white instead, everything looks good in plain white.

I'm printing with retractions to reduce stringing. At 6mm stringing is minimal, so that's what I'm using. However, when the printer first starts laying out a layer, it'll retract, move, and then unretract, begin extruding, and move. That first little blob of plastic isn't given any time to actually adhere, so the start of a new segment always ends up disrupted a mm or two. In Cura I found a setting "Retraction extra prime amount", do you reckon this would work to let the initial filament extrusion adhere? Ideally there'd be something like "pause when starting a line" that I could set to .2 seconds or whatever, but I can't seem to find anything like that.

Petg on a Ender 3.

>>1563000
Looks cool. What would one gain with a mod like this? Is it worth the hassle?

>>1562981
I found that PETG hairing massively depends on the color.
I have a red spool which hairs/fuzzes all over, where the nozzle didn't even go. And I have a white one from the same manufacturer which hardly fuzzes more than PLA.

>>1563105
I think you must have some wicked setting turned on somewhere.
I just use the normal retraction settings in Cura and PETG prints fine. I only retract 5mm at 60mm/s or so. I even have coasting turned on most of the time.
Make sure to disable Z-hops because they enforce stringing.

I'd set the retract to 5mm and start with a clean profile.

>>1562908
>100% fill
Generally there's no need to go above 50% or so, even for very durable parts. What made you decide to use 100% infill?

>>1562906
>printing ABS is really pushing the envelope
This is why I'm hesitant about gimmicky stuff like "multiple functions in one!"; ABS is one of the most common materials out there and I'd expect just about any printer to be able to use it

>>1563177
Well theres not much to fill when the wall thickness on my part is 2mm.
You'd go for 0.8mm wall thickness in your slicer at 0.4mm line width. 2mm - 2x 0.8mm = 0.4mm width to fill. It's propably quickest to just fill 100% because it's just another single line without any pattern.
You can go print it with infill, I'm curious to see that.

>>1563179
If I'm honest, and I've been discussing this with the fablab guys as well, the most logical course of action seems to get a solid 3D printer and then either building separate CNC/laser machines or modules by printing necessary parts. Lots of material online for that as well

>>1563186
That might be the best course of action. If you don't want to invest in a Prusa right off the bat (though I'd recommend it, they're good products and your money would be going towards actual research instead of just being pocketed by faceless companies), you could almost certainly reconfigure at least parts of your printer into an i3 setup; the beauty of the design is it's made publicly available, so you just need to source your own hardware and plastic at the minimum.

https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

You might need to get a new control board and extruder, but the hardware might fit (I don't know what your printer looks like inside based off the picture the other anon posted). Laser attachment might be pretty easy if you a way to control it, but CNC might be a problem due to the actual force required for machining.

>>1562899
Thanks for sharing the source file.

>friend gets a lulzbot
>only prints out trinkets

>>1563222
Isn't that all anyone does with their printer

>>1563170
>tfw bought a red spool
FUCK

So I really want a linear rail printer, but dont want 3-in-1 shit like the snapmaker, or proprietary stuff like the cetus
The cetus would be perfect if you didn't have to be forced to use their software, but directly feed gcode to it.

>inb4 get the cetus and swap motherboard

>>1563231
anycubic kossel linear plus

chink linear rails are pretty crap though

>>1563279
>chink linear rails are pretty crap though
how so ?

>>1563222
>that huge footprint
>that tiny bed

>>1563294
They use shitty uneven bearing balls.

You could replace those with decent Western made ones though

>>1563297
Why do they do this?

>>1563351
becuz they r niggers

>>1563279
>delta

>>1563379
>oh no something that prints faster and better than any cartesian printer in the same price range
Unless you really need to print with TPU, there's not much reason not go delta.

>>1563382
Even then you can use a remote direct drive extruder

>>1563390
>remote direct drive
Imagine being this retarded.

>>1563391
Go on. . .

>>1563382
>deltashit

>>1563390
You mean a flying extruder?
Would still increase the mass you need to accelerate, which kinda defeats the point of a delta.

>>1563391
How in the fuck is it direct drive if it's not directly mounted to the extruder?

>>1563397
So much this. I'd rather have five feet of bowden tube than a flying or direct extruder - which is why I now have five feet of bowden tube.

>>1563397
>>1563399
Zesty nimble, fl3xdrive

>>1563399
One idea I had was to introduce a Z-axis on which you mount the extruder which would then follow the hotend.
Would require to modify the firmware or the slicer, though.

>>1563401
That's not remote drive, that's direct drive with a remote motor.

>>1563406
Yea, thus taking the weight off the effector

>>1563409
You'd still be stuck with a delta though.

>>1563412
To each his own. I know 3dpg hates deltas but I started with a rostock max v2 and have never had a reason to want out. Fewer parts, simplistic movements and set it and forget calibration.

>>1563399
The problem is that with so much bowden tube, even if it's perfectly fitted to the filament, even a stiff plastic like PLA is going to flex inside to the point where you get extrusion problems. Direct drive is a lot more convenient, and the speed argument is nonsense since the biggest limit on speed isn't the inertia from the print head carriage, but the hotend.

>>1561659
Ender-3's springs appear to have shit the bed 5-8 prints in, so now I have better springs, bowden tubing, and an auto leveler on the way. Hoping that the investment will yield fewer headaches in the long run while I tinker. Also strongly considering breaking the printer down and reassembling it to ensure better alignments.

>>1563450
>even a stiff plastic like PLA is going to flex inside to the point where you get extrusion problems
Nah, you can print PLA just fine. Something more flexible like PETG gets a bit trickier and needs more tuning but once you got your slicer settings right it prints fine too.
Only very flexible filaments like TPU are serious trouble.

>and the speed argument is nonsense since the biggest limit on speed isn't the inertia from the print head carriage, but the hotend.
Unless your you're using a fuck huge nozzle, the hotend isn't the limiting factor. I don't know where you got that from.

>Direct drive is a lot more convenient
But impacts print quality - there's a reason people moved away from direct drive.

>>1563450
I'd rather have some flex and extrusion issues than a wobbly extruder that causes artifacts.

>the biggest limit on speed isn't the inertia from the print head carriage, but the hotend.
0.8mm nozzle, 0.6mm layer height and 80mm/s, I haven't even maxed out this hotend yet - but 80 is the soft limit of our delta. I doubt I will run into the limits of the hotend with a 1.2 nozzle, 1.0mm layer height - and at that point I should really reconsider the 1.75mm filament.

Speaking of speeds, what are your Enders running at? Mine defaulted to 50, which I thought was pretty pathetic, but if I set it faster than 60 I start getting adhesion problems.

How do y'all feel about the tevo flash?
Tevo as a brand is pretty hit or miss as far as I can gather but the idea of a stock printer with abl + trinamic drivers + a clone volcano is pretty appealing.

>>1563458
You're throwing money into a fire if you don't diagnose what is wrong / think critically about it before making drastic changes. I really want to replace the springs with two lock nuts on each screw to permanently hold the bed at a fixed level, but back problems are keeping me out of commission.

>>1563509
Your bed will still misalign itself even if you fix the bolts, you only need about 0.1mm to mess up the leveling and that can come from pretty much anything on any of the axis. Bump into the printer one day and you might misalign it that much.
What you can do if you still want to lock the bolts in place is put a dab of glue gun glue on each of them. It's easy enough to poke away if you want to readjust, but until then it'll keep the bed in place.

>>1563470
Currently set to 40 with the first layer set to 15. I've realized when I print 90% of the time I watch the first layer finish then leave and come back a few hours later. If I'm actively printing little parts I'll bump it up; for everything else the only difference between a 2 hour print and a 3 hour print is how long the printer sits idle before I check it after 4 hours.

>>1563458
Don't throw money at the problem until you're 100% on what the problem is. I made that mistake and bought a glass bed, inductive sensor, PTFE & ends, and a new roll of filament only to discover it was a broken $15 extruder causing all my issues.

>>1563517
Yeah I realized that the other day when I nudged the unsupported end of the gantry and it moved up and down by like 3mm making the bed leveling totally pointless.

Still amazing how well it prints for how shit the design is. The bed levelling doesn't really bother me, I squish the first layer down regardless and print on a raft. I'm just thinking maybe print quality would improve if the bed wasn't allowed to vibrate on springs.

>>1563470
15 first layer, 45 subsequent layers, though i could probably bump it up a little bit since i got a bltouch and adhesion is no longer a problem

>>1563533
The springs are firm enough that the bed doesn't really vibrate on them. The bed itself only moves back and forth, the force of the extruder "pulling" plastic around on the print is microscopic. The springs provide benefit even with a fixed bed position, as they can cushion the bed from nozzle collisions.

>>1560508
http://www.printedfirearm.com/

What cooling mount should I print for the ender 3?

>>1563470
60 default speed for most things, 60% outer perimeter, 20% first layer speed, 80% infill.
Big chunky square things that I want to print fast I bump it to 70 default and .3mm, they look decent enough.

>>1563631
Bullseye seems pretty popular and light enough.

>>1563222
That's made even more insulting by the
>DANGER: ENGINEER
sticker and the funko pops stacked behind it

>>1563458
Watch out to not invest money and time in countless meme mods that are shilled all around thr web.
>Ender-3's springs appear to have shit the bed 5-8 prints in
How so? The springs have the job to keep the bed up, did they stop doing that?
Stiffer springs are kinda pointless imho.

>bowden tubing
whats wrong with your bowden?
Just because some faggots on youtube don't know how to assemble their Ender doesn't mean your bowden is shit.
Mine is perfectly fine. It even survived lots of 260°C PETG prints without harm

>>1563777
Keeping the bed more rigid with stiffer springs to reduce a bit of bounce during travel seems worth 5 bucks and some shipping patience

>>1563105
A noob question, why would I want to use PETG?

>>1563815
More temperature stable than PLA, less hard to print than ABS.

Hi, I was printing this and I noticed the surface was quite bumpy, then it failed 5 minutes before finishing.
Any idea what went wrong?
I just had tensioned my X axis (the extruder one).
I have and Ender 3 Pro, 0.15mm layer height and PLA, using Cura.

>>1563815
>>1563816
Especially it's a lot less brittle than PLA. So it's good for mechanical parts that need to take some flex.

>>1563846
I changed back to 0.2mm layer height and it printed just fine, although there may still be some room for improvement. Maybe it was because I didn't print in 0.04mm increments, like 0.16 instead of 0.15.

I get some lines on the surface caused by the extrusion at the start of each layer. Does anybody know how to fix this? Maybe moving the starting point to the inside of the wall and not the outer edge?

>>1563889
>I get some lines on the surface caused by the extrusion at the start of each layer. Does anybody know how to fix this?
you can't remove it completely, but enabling Coasting in experimental settings may help, and you can also mess with retraction speed and distance. there's also a setting to make the Z-seam into a straight line up the model so it's not just dotted all around with garbage marks

>>1562653
Lmao read that through and i've gotta say, the Chinese write pretty damn good English these days

>>1563462
Dude with every single nozzle ive used so far the hotend has been the limiting factor when it comes to speed.
If i were using a volcano i suppose it would be a different story.

>>1562653
Alot of the criticism is fair; the prusa isn't a better design nor is it made with durable parts, but the ender 3's bed is most certainly fucked.

They are right though, for $900 or whatever you can buy or make a much better printer than prusa. The ender 3 is mostly a solid design that would be perfect with a couple of changes for maybe a 30% increase in cost.

>>1563918
>the prusa isn't a better design
It is. It uses rod guides instead of these shitty rubber rollers in anodized aluminum v-slots.

>nor is it made with durable parts
But it is. It has genuine Trinamic drivers which have a greater res and better jerk control which makes them a lot quiter and smoother.
It also has a genuine E3D v6 hotend and not amy kind of knock off.

It's just a better desing out of the box. It depends entirely on the budget of the buyer. Both the Ender 3 and the i3 MK3 are great value for what they cost imho

>>1563931
I'd take that seriously if the parts were made out of aluminum instead of extremely creep susceptible PETG and a sheet metal z axis. The aluminum V slots are stiffer than rods.

Memenamic and 'genuine' hot end has nothing to do with durability. That's just you trying to come up with fluff. Of the ender 3's real problems the hotend not being 'genuine' is not one of them.

Seriously if you're going to make an argument, first understand what it is you are arguing.

>>1563912
>>1563462
If you want to go fast you need to increase the nozzle temp. Otherwise you woun't be able to get enough thermal energy to the filament in that shorter amount of time.

I tried to go 50mm/s with 0.3mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle and rhe extruder motor was skipping sometimes.
I notched the temp up by 5°C and it was all fine again.

>fuck huge nozzle
Actually, a bigger diameter nozzle reduces the flow resistance again...

>>1563936
Hurr durr so sorry for saying someone might want a non chink printer that works out of the box with a comprehensive manual that comes with it.

>creep susceptible PETG
3D printed construction parts on a 3D printer are edgy indeed, i'll give you that.

>>1563947
>no actual argument

>>1563952
claimed a lot of them, you did not read them
>non chink
>higher res trinamic drivers
>genuine E3D v6 hotend (saying non genuine are as good is silly)
>has a manual that actually helps you to build it right
>a lot quiter
>theres support
>round rod guides instead of v-rollers

The V-rollers of my Ender came with horrible flat spots and they will wear out somewhat asymmetrically over time. The rubber wheels are hard to manufacture with tight tolerances and good roundness.
At the same time the galvanized color layer of the aluminum will wear off over time. Generally speaking is aluminum a shitty choice for a linear rail because it's soft.

Round rod guides are just the better system

>>1563954
>The rubber
THEY'RE POLYACETAL, NOT FUCKING RUBBER

>>1563956
Or some other TPE whatever. Propably worse than real natural rubber.

ive been blessed by the gods
>Every print is shit, nothing sticks
>PETG is the worst
>ignore printer for two whole years, all configs and whole setup gone
>NEED custom part, fuel and minor heat resistant
>It fucking printed on the first try, guessed temperatures and standard speeds
>the secret was Glue stick
i wish i had known sooner

>>1563918
When will your retards learn that labor = money? if you have to spend weeks trying to get your Ender to work then just buying a Prusa for $900 is a better deal.

>>1563969
How heat resistant is PETG? I want to make a part that holds an electric motor.

>>1563975
i guess ~80°C, a bit more than PLA

>>1563975
depends on the type of PETG. I have rather high temperature one that has recommended print temp between 245°C - 265°C.
Should be fairly stable up to ~100°C

Just try it

>>1563972
Not everyone has $900 to drop on a 3D printer.

>>1563982
prove it nigger

>>1563982
>Implying everyone is as poor as you

At work we have multiple $20k FDM printers

>>1563972
My ender worked out of the box and prints fine.

competence = money

>>1563954
>>1563958
Just. With every post. It's so apparent how little you know about either printer or how they work.
And microstepping to double the frequency means shit when your sheet metal frame and rubber belts flex by more than the microstep resolution.

>>1563972
Unfortunately alot of people have neither brains nor money. It doesn't take weeks to get the ender 3 to work, for the majority of people it works out of the box and then develops a few specific known problems over time that they don't diagnose and instead start assuming all sorts of shit. If they literally took a couple of minutes to watch the printer at work or examined the bad prints closely they could figure out what is wrong instead of blindly ordering replacement parts for weeks.

Pic related for example. There was a massive uneven layer shift at the drawn line. I never had layer shift problems until I peeled off the build tak and started printing on purple glue stick. I examined the machine and couldn't find any spots where binding could cause a layer shift. Then I examined the print closely, the layer shift was uneven because the little legs had warped either inwards or outwards causing the appearance of a layer shift when there actually wasn't one. Also the nozzle was too close to the bed causing the extruder to skip so it is very likely that the nozzle hit the printed parts which didn't get knocked off because they were on a raft.

This was 100% avoidable operator error; literally nothing wrong with the printer. I'm going to clean off the glue and go back to printing on buildtak.

>>1563954
>Round rod guides are just the better system
THEY FUCKING AREN'T

Just try and make this with round rods:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EtJfaiQ9H0

>>1563972
>if you have to spend weeks trying to get your Ender to work

But you don't! Unless you have a really low IQ an Ender 3 will print right out of the box.

>>1564036
Lets combine the worst things from a cantilever and a corexy design for ultimate autism.

>>1564036
>Just try and make this with round rods:
These high quality linear guides shown in the video are obviously miles above those of the i3.
But at the same time they aren't compareable to the Ender rails, thats an entirely different system.

>>1563815
For me it's because it's a plastic that combines the durability of ABS with the practicality of PLA. I don't get as good quality as with PLA because of the issue I wrote about, so I wouldn't recommend it for something like printing Warhammer minis, but whenever I'm making something mechanical I prefer PETG since I've had PLA crack a few times. PETG is tough, and under very heavy strain it'll flex a bit. PLA isn't super tough, and it shatters when strained. Also, leave something printed out of PLA in your car during summer and it'll melt. PETG doesn't.

>>1564063
The real question is are the fumes safe?

>>1564082
Yep. Better still, they're smell-free. ABS reeks like death, PLA smells a bit like cotton candy, and PETG isn't noticeable even if you put your nose right up to it.

>>1564036

I don't see what's preventing you from building this with rods, just use a pair bolted to a plate for each axis. Not that you would want to, the design looks like total ringing-sville

Messy infill guy here again.
First is 60mm/s, second 50, third 25. As you can see the 60 has awful infill, while the 50 is tolerable and the 25 sort of okay. Before I switched to pet I was printing pla at 60 with flawless infill, now it looks quite messy even when I've slowed it down extremely.
What could I be doing wrong here? The bottom, sides and top of the cube look alright regardless of speed.

>>1563222
>stickers on the machine
>Pop! Figures
>capeshit statuette
I want to beat the shit out of your friend anon, I bet he wanted a printer because you keep making them sound so cool so he went out and bought a fucking lulzbot because the lol so epic type name

>>1563993
There I got the mm thick layer of purple gluestick shit off of my bed and a proper build surface put on. I would've probably been chasing my tail for weeks if I listened to dumb youtubers and kept trying to make the glue stick work. I mean it was convenient that it popped right off when the bed cooled down but that also means the adhesion was just barely good enough to trick you into thinking it worked while causing all sorts of warping that ruined prints. I'll take reliability with a glued on surface that I have to scrape over one held down by paper clips.

>>1564168
There we go, no layer shifting, nothing. This PLA is a pile of hot shit that's brittle with poor layer adhesion while requiring massive air gaps to not fuse with the support, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the printer.

Don't take advice from dumb youtubers, ditch the stupid gluestick.

>>1564213
My measurements are off though; not enough of the blade is sticking out.

>>1564213
There's literally nothing wrong with glue stick
That is unless you don't need it in which case just don't use it, if you've got a heated bed and are printing PLA you don't need glue stick, just increase bed temp.

>>1564127
At high speed it looks like the lines sometimes disconnect from each other and bundle up from the heat. I would consider this to be from either underextrusion or poor cooling.

>>1563969
Anon again,
I printed the part 3 times and the diameters outside and inner hole are off by 1.5 millimeters!
I read petg doesn't shrink, so this is even more ridiculous.
Wtf is this, to hot nozzle?

>>1564338
Print a 100x100 mm calibration square and check if your steppers need calibration.

>>1564338
3x the identical Gcode?
Sounds like you have a massive mechanical problem with your printer.

Do you think these teeth will print without supports? i set the support size to 2mm and simplify 3d ain generating any for those teeth, so i assume that means they will print fine?¨
i'm trying to make this shit
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:863720

>>1564413
well, not exactly same code but unchanged dimensions on the fittings, those are all off by the same ballpark
>>1564413
i upscaled the part on the fits and now its preddy gud,
when this is done i will troubleshoot it, because beside the scale issue it prints flawlessly right now

It being a shit old Makerbot clone, what is the go to firmware for 8-Bit Atmel boards right now? (not 4 years ago)
i want to flash it so i can finally print normal G-code instead of unicorn x3g

I knew how good this thing was supposed to be when I bought it, but I'm still surprised by the level of detail that comes through in resin

>>1564415
You should run an overhang test and find out (it's going to depend on your settings). @ 60 deg is where I start yo get reliability problems.

>>1564448
Where do i find the overhang test?

>>1564416
Repetier or marlin
Idk which is better

>>1564336
>poor cooling
That doesn't really apply with PETG. For most printers you actually want as little fan speed as possible, or none at all.

Thinking of buying an Anycubic Kossel.
Any opinions on it?

>>1564468
Why not the Linear Plus? It's not much more expensive and has a larger build plate and uses linear rails instead v-slot.

>>1564454
This is the one I use:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295
There's plenty of overhang only tests floating around if you just want to test that though.

>>1564476
My bad, didn't want to write the full name but yeah that's the one.
From what I've read online there were firmware issues when it first came out so I'm hoping they're gone now.

>>1564488
I believe you can just flash the official Marlin on it

>>1564336
>looks like the lines sometimes disconnect from each other
Yes, this is the case for all of the speeds, but it's way worse on 60 and 50 mm/s.
>poor cooling
I think this is unlikely. For starters, PETG likes to be a bit hot, and second all the details on the outside of the cube print perfectly. The walls are smooth and shiny, and if I print the entire cube the X and Y are both sharp and pretty.
>underextrusion
This was my first thought, but raising the infill line width (to make it extrude more, Cura doesn't seem to have a setting for infill flow) only gave me severe layer adhesion issues (PETG needs to be extruded at a higher height than other plastics, it adheres better that way).
I'm honestly at the end of my wits here. Everything I print looks good on the outside, but the inside is just a huge pile of shit.

>>1564551
Just to be sure, are you specifically checking the speed at which infill prints? Cura has different settings for infill and walls and setting the "global" speed doesn't automatically change both. You could be setting the speed to 25, which would do walls really slow and then it jumps back to the default 60 for infill because Cura can be retarded like that sometimes. I've made that mistake before on my own prints.

Fuck you I clicked the buses, trains, fire hydrants, and traffic lights. Let me fucking post already.

>>1564609
Yes, I have unhidden all the hidden speeds, it's specifically the infill speed I'm adjusting. Wall and supports are unchanged between these cubes.
Now that I think about it, I'm actually having the same problem with supports. But when the speeds are all set to equal infill still prints far worse than walls do.

>want to print at high quality
>want to go super fucking slow
>and have really small layer height
>want it to finish at a reasonable hour too
>10 hour print time
>work first shift and don't have time to start before leaving for work
Fuck this print, but I'm still making it.

Hi all. I hate to be the guy that begs for help, but after looking into everything that I can find, I still can't figure out why this is happening.

Why does this gap occur on this part? it only seems to happen on this thin feature here. At its thinnest, the feature is 2mm by 3mm which I figured is perfectly doable for a 3D printer.

>Make and Model
Prusa i3 I sourced and built myself
>filament type/brand
Hatchbox PLA 1.75mm (which I've checked and is accurate) white filament
>Extruder and bed temp
180C and 60C
>print speed
60mm/s

I've raised the extrusion multiplier up to about 105% but it still doesn't help. In addition, my filament intake seems perfectly accurate. I also measured the diameter of the filament to make sure it stays 1.75 which it does. I've done prints at 0.2mm through 0.1mm layer heights with no change to this feature. Any and all advice is appreciated.

>>1564616
Just wake up 10 minutes early?

>>1564650
Does your printer have a part cooling fan? Because those blobby layers and your low low print temp of 180c makes me think you don't have a part cooling fan.

I would suggest dropping your print speed so that the pla has time to cool and stick in that small feature. Also look into your travel settings maybe; when it starts printing that part it's no longer a continuous segment so maybe it retracts but doesn't prime properly when it goes to print that little section of that layer. IDK

>>1564661
I actually do have a cooling fan but it is on the other side of the part so maybe that matters. I do have retraction so you could very well be onto something there. I'll see what lessening/disabling that does. Thanks for the advice anon!

>>1564650
>180C
That sounds awefully low, try 205-210. The temperature range for Hatchbox is 180-220, my rule of thumb for PLA temperature is (min Temp + max Temp)/2 + (5 to 10) . Hardly have any problems with that.

>>1564616
>not knowing your printer well enough to be able to set it and forget it

git gud

>>1564438
Resin for detailed parts, filament for bulky parts
I've considered printing an ABS "skeleton" and attaching highly detailed resin prints as a "skin", using as little (way more expensive) resin as possible but still making a large, strong, impressive model. I don't really have any suitable models to print though, I'll either have to learn ZBrush myself or pay for some high detail sculptures.

>>1564438
Do you just print that straight on the bed without supports? From the looks of the pillar and figurine, yes, but everything I've seen straight-up says not to do that or else Bad Things will happen (like warping and detachment).

>>1564748
The pillar failed, but yes all of that is straight off the bed with zero support
I've been testing both the models I have and the printers capabilities
>She was printed with no support on the default settings in between the coffin and the treasure chests on the bed(not that placement matters on a resin printer)

Don't mind me, just pirating some hardware here.

>>1564796
>stock edgy guitar music plays
YOu woUlDn'T 3d PRInt A cAR

>>1564817
>YOu woUlDn'T 3d PRInt A cAR
Anon, I....

>>1564796
need to program it to play simon

>>1564784
Cool fingerprints bro

thicc

>>1564883
Thank you, I grew them myself

>>1563972
Well there's that faggot who thinks that diy = chinese labor, and that if you're not making money off of whatever you're doing you're wasting time. He always pops up in /diy/ threads.

>>1564213
>ditch the stupid gluestick
I literally never have adhesion problems after a coat of glue stick, no matter what material I print, where else wise it's a 50-50 chance of a corner lifting.

>>1564551
>>looks like the lines sometimes disconnect from each other
>Yes, this is the case for all of the speeds, but it's way worse on 60 and 50 mm/s.
Did you try increasing your extrusion multiplier or change you temp settings at all (up or down)? How are your bridging abilities? Post a pic of some bridging tests, I might be able to give some suggestions based off them.

I want to print some small containers to hold my various electronics like Arduinos and shit like that do you have any recommendations for such containers? Thingverse seems to have a crapload of options

>>1564650
Raise your temps to 200C, lower print speed to 40mm/s

>>1564945
>>1563972
And both of you faggots think only in black and white.
Depends entirely on what someone wants to do.
If 3D printing is just a tiny part of a massive project with a deadline (like building a robot for some exhibition) why not spend the dollar on a non chink printer.
If someones into diy and likes to mess around then go for a chink printer.

>>1564961
Design your own. That's a perfect project to learn CAD on (you're talking about a box & lid with board posts & holes).

>>1564988
And then there's this faggot who's always "wahh it depends on the situations wahh".

>>1564892
>£96.00
Lets be honest it is not like many in the customers in the consumer market could actually put this thing to good use.

>>1564961
One of the ones that repurposes an empty roll of filament. Combine with one of the free rolling + stackable bases so you can have multiple ones that rotate individually like a Lazy Susan with autism.

>>1561875
>I'm not sure what openscat is, but I would avoid it just from that description.
...this is bait.

>>1561892
The best modelers use both.
You can fuck with the actual code in FreeCAD

You won't because it's stupid when you can freely manipulate objects.

...but you can.

>>1564616
>3D print ready
>upward arms with hanging feathers
>hanging hair
>leg up
>elbows aimed down
>on a pedestal
hmmm... that's support-city my friend.

>>1563224
>Isn't that all anyone does with their printer
Initially and for testing, yeah.
I have four figures I usually alternate through when setting my printer up with a mod or different hardware just to do a little sanity test.
When I first got it I was printing EVERYTHING
Now I just use it when I need it, like today for a vape box.

>>1565125
The version with the supports is more support than harpy, but I suppose that comes with the territory. Trying different positions right now, thinking if I lay her on her back I can cut the amount of support by a good deal.

>>1564892
>>1565106
I ran 36mm3/s through a regular Volcano before some bug caused my stepper driver to go out, they are promising 110mm3/s through this thing. Maybe not worth 110 EUR to most people, but when you can cut a 170 hour print job in half or less, you can bet your ass I'm going to try.

>>1564952
I raised the extrusion multiplier for the infill only (Cura calls this infill line width for some reason), but as the rest of my prints look perfect I haven't raised the overall flow. I have wobbled around the temperatures, trying at five degree intervals from 200 to 250 (the filament claims to be printable from 210 to 235), and the infill as well as the sides look best at 220, which is what I'm using.

I'll print a bridge and overhang test and get back to you.

>>1562831
check tom's dolly build, if you got nema motors and ramps it will cost you around 200usd
I build one with aluminium frame for 300usd for all the parts

>just bought a cr10s4
tell me i did good

Can regular nozzle handle petg?

>>1565186
Yes. But you'll want an all-metal hotend if you need temperatures higher than about 240.

>>1565141
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359055
>125% size
>0.08mm layer height
>40mm / second speed
>~40 meters of filament
>23 hours
>Probably even more time than that
First ever "large" print. Wish me luck. Saving almost 20 meters of filament by using Cura's tree supports instead of the "ready to print" ones that miss quite a few details. I suppose the problem with ready made supports is the slicer wants to give them walls and infill as well.

>ender 3
>stringing
>check settings
"travel speed 120"
>check the printer itself
>travel speed 500
Why is the default set so low? I raised it in Cura to 500 and the printer seemed to handle that fine. I'm considering raising it even more.

>>1564796
>>1564858
>meme LED triangles

>>1565265
>Memes you can't stop posting

>>1565148
>>1564952
Okay, here's the print test. It's the mini all-in-one from thingiverse. The tall overhang thing prints well at 70 degrees, the short at 60. The bridging bits are okay, it drops maybe half a mm on the longest one. The stringing portion has five hair-like strings and one bigger string, probably caused during ironing because it's at the very top. All the other stuff looks good, I've no idea what the support thing was meant to be because the stl has no air gap so the pet fused right and good there. The infill on this was alright, but the base plate is thin enough that there wasn't enough time for the infill to turn ugly.

220 degrees petg at 50mm/s, fan at 50%.

>>1565195
>>1565125
>>1565141
If it was me I wouldn't even attempt to print that model as one piece, I'd at the very least cut the arms off at the shoulders and point the feathers upwards, probably also three head with the hair pointing upwards too. Personally I hate supports under chins and noses.

>>1565240
The printer has to accelerate up to that speed so for the small distances traveled during printing it will almost never hit 120 mm/s anyway

>>1565320
If I'd thought about that about 4 hours ago I would have probably gone with your idea, but I'm far enough into this print that I'm going to let it go and see how it fares.
I also hate underhangs, and after flipping it around in Cura ended up printing it as the picture intended to minimize them.

>>1565123
>open scat

>>1565272
>haven't posted in months
>people are still this ass blasted

>>1565272
>>1565265
You used LEDs, right? How are you powering them? I'm needing some LED strips for a project and I don't have the first idea how I would hook them up (or even where I would get them, really). I considered using USB power but then I'd be limited by the amperage, I think.

>>1565348
Any 5V power supply will do, but you need to calculate how many amps you need. More is always better, and with these strips you can splice in power at any point which you should have multiple to prevent voltage drop.

>>1565348
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/the-magic-of-neopixels

This has a good hook up guide for the WS2812 LEDs that you see >>1565340 which are 5V individually addressable LEDs.

If you want something more simple you can get 5050's which are RBG, but not individually addressable as seen in pic.

>>1565354
>>1565356
Neat, I forgot neopixels were a thing; I should look into those more and dig into the archives for your project one of these days. What's a reasonable ballpark cost for those 5050s and similar? I've seen prices all over the place and don't really know which is okay, what's a ripoff, and what will get me cheap garbage.

>>1565354
Lose that resistor

>>1565360
For 12V 5050's it's very cheap. $30 gets you enough LEDs to complete a project, a controller, and a power supply. WS2812's are similarly cheap.

>>1565362
No you! But seriously why? I've never had a problem.

>excited to get my MK3S kit today after building one at work
>one of the aluminum extrusions isn't tapped
Pic related. At least I can go and tap it at work tomorrow, provided we have that exact tap size...

So why are delta printers so unpopular when on paper they are the superior kinematic?

>>1565340
enlighten me on that pic, looks nice

>>1565495
Because the Ender3 isn't a delta.
And the kids here are very sensitive about anything that could make their Ender3 look anything but the absolute best.

Same reason the Prusa gets so much hate.

>>1565495
>Hey I have a fantastic idea! Lets take data in three independent dimensions used to describe objects and then translate it into three completely dependent axes of movement tied to an imprecisely made linkage of multiple joints that interfere with each others motion in an effort to position an inverse kinematic end effector using a blind forward kinematics control system!

>Lets now put this massive oversized dumpster fire on top of a undersized circular build plate that is only suitable for printing vases because the linkage produces a tiny amount of lateral movement for an excessive amount of vertical movement.

t.ender 3 owner

>>1565552
lol yeah the axes are technically linearly dependent but what does it matter?
As long as the axes aren't actually mechanically dependent on each other by requiring an axis to carry other axes like an Ender 3.

>>1565145
>I ran 36mm3/s through a regular Volcano
What material and at what nozzle size and layer height? Mine is acting up around 25mm3/s, but i am using a boden drive.
>you can bet your ass I'm going to try.
Just a matter of time til you get a half decent copy on aliexpress.

>>1565309
I know you said you went down to 200c, and the filament is rated for 210-235, but try going even lower and printing this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:113160
The only time I've ever had any problems that were similar to your infill problem was when I was printing too hot. The material would droop and some times 'snap' and curl up like your previous picture. You should try lowering your temp until you can print pic related with almost no drooping, but not too low that you have layer adhesion issues.

>>1565686
That's the thing though, I've done heat tests before, and reached the conclusion that below 215 layer adhesion is awful, and above 230 the bridges droop down too far. I'd rather deal with bad infill than the super poor layer adhesion I get from going below 215.

I do have another suspicion, though. The only common bridging issue I've had is that a single line of filament fails to adhere on both sides, and then ends up on top of the bridge itself. During the next layer, the printer then extrudes on top of it, which forces the first layer down and makes the bridge droop. Could that be a symbol of what the failure here is?

>>1565495
Way harder to build on the cheap side, problems in the motion system are more interlinked, needed a bit more calculation power than most simple controllers could handle, heavily dependend on a light gantry ->less people used them->less inovation around it->other printers now can do what deltas can for cheap. Also people rather needed a bigger printbed than a taller print height, which is the opposite of what a delta is good on.

There are still situations where it makes sense, like for real big printers (like a hangprinter) where a moveable bed becomes a problem.

What do you think, is this a useful mod? It's a clip that holds two 5mm LEDs next to the hot end to illuminate a print. A bit less intrusive than strapping an entire light bar to the top of the frame, and the diodes can be powered by splicing into the 40mm fan or, as I have done here, by wire wrapping them onto the BLTouch servo power leads. No hardware needed, the diodes are simply squeezed into the holes in the mount, and the mount itself is squeezed onto the metal.

>>1565775
This, though scaling up a delta incurs far less cost than a cartesian. It's also alot harder to get one running well on chinesium level parts.

Anybody use an orange pi zero for octoprint?

>>1565871
I've used a Zero W, wouldn't recommend it. Mine had this tendency to fucking _lag_. Sometimes the lag was just the printer freezing up for a second, sometimes it was quickly darting off to 0,0 before resuming, sometimes it was excruciatingly slowly moving to 0,0 before resuming.

This ruined many prints.

>>1565871
>>1565876
Interesting, the new Prusa has a slot for a Pi Zero; I haven't investigated it but supposedly it's for Octoprint. I wonder if they run into the same issues?

>>1565880
It might just have been a bad unit, it died a few months ago after I installed a kernel update and I got a 3B+ to replace it. Some small processor error that let it run but with occasional weirdness, until you try compiling a kernel and it all just drops dead maybe. If Prusa thinks the Zero is good enough, chances are it is. He's pretty conscientious about these things.

Anyone else who has the new Prusa kits (MK3/S) - does yours seem Very Orange? I'm putting together mine and it seems a lot more... vibrant, don't know what other word fits, compared to my MK1 that I remember. I can't put them side-by-side since it's in a different city but it still seems very bright, even compared to the instructions.

>>1565495
It is true, that parallel kinematics have the advantage of adding up the stiffness of each segment.
However with a delta design smal angular forces on the head can easily flex the rods. Thats why delta toolheads have to be verry light and ballanced in oder to work.

>>1566105
>more... vibrant orange
t.life of a prusa owner

>>1565495
>Converting XYZ into delta machine axes is hard to do by head
>Rollers carriages create ghosting because they're rattled around in the V rail
>Rods flex
>Effector tilt
>Rods will go over dead point and crash your machine
>Effector may exit build volume and crash into frame
>Not cheap, so only really useful for DIY big volume printers
>Which then becomes a quest for a light effector with light and long rods
>Which are hideously expensive
>Can't use direct drive, because every gram of weight kills your acceleration/jerk and causes ghosting
>Can't use bowden for a big volume printer because lol 5 feet of tube
>Buildplate does not match most engineering designs
>Build volume dictates printing long slender objects standing up, which leads you straight into wobbletown
>Three motors to move one axis
I work on a large volume (1000*1400mm) delta and it fukken sucks. To get a bit better build speed to fill all that volume I might want to get that new SuperVolcano mentioned ITT, but that's going to add mass to the head meaning I need to retune everything and it might even slow down the damn thing.

>>1565867
>though scaling up a delta incurs far less cost than a cartesian.
It also greatly exacerbates the problems that a delta has. Big printer -> big head, and that leads you to a heavy printhead which deltas hate.

>>1565775
>Way harder to build on the cheap side
An Anycubic Kossel is pretty cheap - around 170 bucks.
And it follows the RepRap diy friendly Kossel design.
The whole frame is all aluminium extrusions and plastic parts, that can be 3d printed.
The original Kossel uses linear rails but you can get away with v-slot carriages (look up Deltarunner, great printable carriages that work pretty well).
Carbon rods and joints start at around 10$ for the most Chinesium ones and can go up to 50-60$ for local pre-assembled ones.
Timing belts aren't expensive too.

Unless I'm forgetting something this is pretty much all you need for a delta, except for the usual stuff you need for Cartesian printers too (like steppers, hotend, etc.)

RepRap Rostock design shouldn't be hard to do cheap either, there you can make the frame out of wood (and smooth rods and linear bearings for the axes). But probably a lot harder to make the axes parallel and equidistant (which is paramount for deltas).

>>1566165
This is the first "big" thing i printed i think it came out pretty good. (Flexi Rex at 250% Scaling)

Whats causing this to curve? Is this caused by cooling or because the bed on my ender3 isn't flat

>>1566260
Does it curve before you take it off the build plate or after?
If it doesn't bend visibly while on the plate, part of it is probably still that the plastic shrinks as it cools, and the bottom layers cool while the upper layers are still being printed, which adds a bit of a twist when you remove it, but part might just be that you yourself bend the plastic when you remove it from the bed. It's a thin part, it could well be. What you can do to alleviate both of these problems is to print on a raft.

If it bends like that because the corners detach mid-print, you should try printing with a brim instead. Both raft and brim should be options under "build plate adhesion" or such in your slicer.

>>1566270
Im not sure if its like that before I remove it from the plate it doesn't really look like it. I have been using a heated plate just for the first layer then it goes to 0.

Here is another part

>>1566271
That looks like a layer adhesion problem. Why do you turn your heated bed off? If anything that's going to contribute to losing your adhesion halfway through the print. Either leave it off from the start or leave it on (I recommend on). If that doesn't do it, try printing with a brim. A wider surface of contact can help "pull" the first layer straight when it starts curling up.

>>1566273
Someone in one of these threads suggested to turn on changeatz in cura and I left it on

>>1566271
>I have been using a heated plate just for the first layer then it goes to 0

There's your problem, you got trolled
That's basically a surefire way to get your print to start peeling off the build plate. It looks like you're using PLA judging by the glossiness of the filament so try either no heated bed or keep it at a low temperature for the entire print. Try 60C.

>>1566279
Never listen to advice from this thread. We're all wrong and pedantic.

>>1566271
you want it always on anon, otherwise it cools unevenly and lifts like that

It took me 3 attempts to get all these gravestones printes because of a slightly unlevel bed, and then an apparently smudged FEP film
I need to buy an ender3 so I can do more terrain

New Thread
>>1566323