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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1560121 No.1560121 [Reply] [Original]

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread:>>1548370

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

>> No.1560126

>>1560121
Contributions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

>> No.1560127

>>1560121
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w

>> No.1560129

>>1560121
http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/

Which formulas do you use at work besides (Vc·1000)/(pi·O) ?

>> No.1560346

how do I write my g76 line for buttress threads?

>> No.1560407

>>1560346
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/threading-buttress-thread-g76-175645/

>> No.1560412

>got my lathe running
>can't post vid because it's too late
will post tomorrow or the next day.

>> No.1560425

>>1560412
sweet

>> No.1560525

>>1560407
so your only option is to go straight in or write 50 g32 lines?

>> No.1560547

>>1560525
I don't manually write G-code but I bet someone else knows.

>> No.1560711
File: 22 KB, 500x500, 414Fd2nr-OL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1560711

I borrowed some indexable end mills yesterday and was so impressed I ordered my own.

>> No.1560836

>>1560711
What are you running them on, and did you buy chinkshit or quality?

>> No.1560904

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4pWjZbT0RI

>> No.1560916

Sorry for the long post and if this is the wrong place to ask but I wanted to get actual machinist's opinions. I'm trying to decide between taking machining/CNC classes vs putting my time into an advanced/renewable energy related program at a community college. Running out of time on trying to get something going and can't try out both. I'm wondering if this is a recommended trade to get into? I'm currently putting all my time into this energy program that boasts high related job placement rates and connections but learning machining seems much more practical to me. I've heard of long hours and low compensation - how accurate is that generally?

>> No.1560930

>>1560836
I have a Shizuka ANS. Just bought the cheap Chinese set off Amazon. Three tools for $50. I refuse to buy "quality" cutters because so many take proprietary carbide inserts.

>> No.1560931
File: 3.16 MB, 1920x1080, Screenshot (3).png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1560931

Hi.
I had loads of scrap shit laying around my house.

>maybe I can make a lathe with all this junk

The only things I didn't have was some steel box section for the base, the 0.5mod spur gears pulley + belt and the tapered roller bearings.

The rest is either free samples of industrial automation shit, steel pipe, motors scrounged from a old kid's ride-on car thing (hopefully torquey enough).

Will a forstner bit be ok to drill through 3mm steel box section so that I can bore a 'headstock' exactly parallel to the lead-screw ways?

PS. yes it will be shit on the first iteration, but hopefully good enough to turn new parts for itself.

>> No.1560973

>>1560916
> I'm currently putting all my time into this energy program that boasts high related job placement rates

Talking about solar panel and windmill and windfarm maintenance?
Keep it
There will continue to be a push toward low skilled button pushing CNC work in the machining industry, while the renewable resource field will continue to grow with its high skilled workers in mind. Only once that technology truly matures will it transition into a low skill low wage sort of work.

And you are a product of your environment.
It was easy for me to find a decent paying job out of school because I live in a place with a huge amount of shops and some big name companies still producing stuff. IE those connections you are talking about.

If the connections and networking lies within your hometown being in the renewable industry? Just take it and dont look back.

>> No.1560983

>>1560931
Forstner bit wont work.
Buy a roto-broach.

>> No.1561004

why should i be interested in machining

>> No.1561028

>>1561004
you could build a machine to kill yourself

>> No.1561047

/k/ here. Looking for a smallish mill to use for AK and AR receivers. I did 2 years of manual and CNC machining in tech school but I really don't know what brands to avoid?

>> No.1561067

>>1560412
https://youtu.be/DDmKqqbjcoo

Nice

>> No.1561166

>>1561047
>ak receiver
you need a sheet metal press not a mill

>> No.1561171

>>1560983
oof
>roto-broach literally costs more than all the other parts put together

Yeah. Thanks, but I'll have to find another way.

>> No.1561176

>>1561004
>>1561028
Or you could kill yourself while building a machine to kill yourself

>> No.1561214

>>1561166
They can have milled receivers.

>> No.1561223

>>1561047
>I really don't know what brands to avoid?

Just buy as big and rigid as you can afford/house.
If you buy new import, they are all very similar and come from similar factories. Expensive for what you get, and there may be some differences in brands but its not like a huge difference.

I easily milled out an AR15 80% with my Precision Matthews PM-727M, without a jig.

>> No.1561225

>>1561171
You could try a forstner bit, but man its really really going to be pushing its limits. Its not made to chip out steel, its spur probably wont even penetrate the metal.
And a regular hole saw is going to get you the precision you really are looking for.

A carbide tip hole saw is pretty much a rotabroach, but they may not be cheap.

>> No.1561228

>>1561225
>And a regular hole saw is going to get you the precision you really are looking for.

A bimetal hole saw ISNT going to be precise enough**

>> No.1561272

>>1561225
A bimetal hole saw ISNT going to be precise enough**


Yeah, they're wobbly as fuck. hence why I thought a forstener bit was the way to go.

maintaining feed pressure on the bit is another issue. not sure if the linear motion assembly is up to it.

Might just run it at a fuck low rpm with a shit load of lubricant and hope it works.

>> No.1561287 [DELETED] 

>>1561225
>You could try a forstner bit,


>>1561272
>Might just run it at a fuck low rpm with a shit load of lubricant and hope it works.

Are we seriously discussing using a woodworking bit to machine metal?

>> No.1561290

>>1561228
>>1561272
How 2 sharpen hole saws?

>> No.1561291
File: 27 KB, 340x270, 1549250110114.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561291

I want to machine raised text but most free cad software for engraving will not do raised text. Anyone have some ideas?

>> No.1561294

>>1561287
Feel free to suggest something that isn't a $100 broach,

>> No.1561312

>>1561291
That's not engraving, that's island machining. Write out the text as wireframe and use it as an avoidance chain for a facing operation.

>> No.1561316

>>1561290
You take feather passes the teeth just like a saw blade.

>> No.1561317

>>1561287
>Are we seriously discussing using a woodworking bit to machine metal?

Ive used router bits as form tools, and it works ok

>> No.1561360

>>1560930
Ive always had a hard time inserts. I wouldnt mind a set like that though

>> No.1561392

>>1561360
finding inserts I mean, its hard to decode them and stuff

>> No.1561434

>>1561312
>island machining
>use it as an avoidance chain
What software we talkin about here?

>> No.1561565

>>1561392
it's insane they don't stamp the insert's code on the toolholder

>> No.1561605
File: 422 KB, 1191x672, Screenshot 2019-02-23 at 4.56.33 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561605

I just pulled the trigger on this for my Hardinge CHNC I lathe.

>> No.1561606

>>1561605
I want one of those with B-style inserts so I can tell people my tool is a BRAPR

>> No.1561608

>>1561605
I don't get it is that a fly cutter? it doesn't look like any face mills I've used before.

>> No.1561609

>>1561608
It's a turning tool for a lathe.

>>1561605
God damn you guys have such cheap prices.

>> No.1561622

>>1561608
>it doesn't look like any face mills I've used before.
I'm curious to see what kind of finish it leaves. This design doesn't seem to support the insert very well but I don't usually take heavy passes anyway.

>> No.1561624

>>1561434
That's how you'd do it in MasterCAM. I don't know what your software offers but does it have some kind of facing toolpath that lets you choose bosses to leave alone? Or maybe a pocket operation?

>> No.1561632

>>1561624
I use path in Freecad and its not really that well developed yet. I can do edge detection but some geometry doesn't agree with it.

>> No.1561640

>>1561632
MasterCAM X7 is really easy to pirate, anon.

>> No.1561644

if I want to start a thread with a plug tap and then follow it with a bottoming tap how do I set the tools up in the holders so the machine will put them in the same way?

>> No.1561649
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1561649

any advice about buying a decent bench top lathe.
Need to carry it down a set of stairs to basement shop
looking at wartime southbends

>> No.1561652

>>1561644
In a CNC? You don't, you hopefully have rigid tapping and then just peck tap if you have that option. If you're in a manual, slow as fuck RPM and gently feed the second tap in so it engages on its own.

>> No.1561655

>>1561652
>>1561644
Or at least, I'm pretty sure you can't unless someone makes some fancy ass holder just for doing that.

>> No.1561657

>>1561644
How many holes do you have to tap?

>> No.1561665

>>1561644
bonk the bottoming tap up against the hole and let it find it's own way in. because it starts with a full tooth it won't try to cut a new path.

>> No.1561667
File: 8 KB, 185x272, download (12).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561667

>>1561665
>bonk the bottoming tap up against the hole and let it find it's own way in.
Good excuse to buy a tap burner if nothing else.

>> No.1561676

>>1561649
They are decent little machines. They tend to be a bit better than Atlas/Craftsman or Logan/Powr-Kraft models of similar capability. They are still a light duty/hobbyist machine though.

>> No.1561698

>>1561676
well thats what i want it for

>> No.1561735

>>1561667
Those things are nuts. I googled it once and got all these example videos from Chink companies that will sell you one for a couple grand. They were hilarious and I’m not sure I would ever want to count on so much electricity running through $3000 worth of Chinesium parts.

>> No.1561744

>>1561609
>you guys
That's chinkshit, you can get it for the same price, even less.

>> No.1561748
File: 1.14 MB, 1536x1536, 20190223_232004.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561748

>>1560711
I played with the new cutters tonight. Never really tried to pocket with a non center cutting end mill. It worked, just went down .02" per pass at 15 inches per minute.

The far side hole was the canned cycle. The other one is the first time I tried a helix move.

>> No.1561749
File: 1.06 MB, 1600x900, Screenshot 2019-02-23 at 9.50.38 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561749

>>1560711
Here is how the different profiles come out.

>> No.1561828

>>1561657
only one but in 30 parts

>>1561652
so just start with the bottoming tap?

>> No.1561854

How hard is it to learn all of this stuff, anyway? Can I realistically expect to become a decent machinist for only a grand or two invested into training? I want to get into this for hobby stuff and don't expect to ever make a single dime from it all, hence my apprehension to dive into full on schooling.

>> No.1561858
File: 180 KB, 1440x1080, 53050599_1665579237074131_7068928737948991488_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561858

>>1561854
Machining is good fun and practical instruction is important but after learning the Basics I learned more off youtube than I did during my entire apprenticeship. also it can be cheap if manufacturing is dying in your country. Scored this huge NOS Lloyds tap handle for 50 bucks a few days ago and got the 1-1/2" reamer still in wax for 30 bucks from the same store last year

>> No.1561931

>>1561854
Money is better spent on equipment and machines than training. You can learn a lot from YouTube, but without having a machine to apply your knowledge to/with, the knowledge is pretty useless. Also note that all this shit starts taking up quite a bit of space over time, especially if you get a lathe and a mill.

>> No.1561936

>>1561931
Couldn't I just rent shop time every weekend or two and not have to drop 10 - 20 grand on a properly kitted out workshop?

>> No.1561956

>>1561291
draw the text in sketch mode in fusion 360 then extrude it upward

>> No.1561957

>>1561565
but then people would buy fewer tool holders

and most quality manufacturers do stamp the model of the tool holder onto it, like iscar

so then you can look up the holder and see what inserts go with it

>> No.1561962

>>1561828
>so just start with the bottoming tap?

yes, with peck tapping you can apparently screw it in a little ways, back it out, then screw it in more, etc.

Depending on the material, and if you have the right tap that pulls the chips out of a blind hole, a bottoming tap will probably work just fine going all the way in/out.

>> No.1561963

>>1561858
$30 for that reamer? damn nice.

>> No.1561970

>>1561936
Probably depends on where you live, but I think anyone with a decent shop wouldn't rent it out to a newfag that would fuck his machines up, and likewise those shops that do get rented out would have all fucked machines since retards keep going there.
If you have the space, 10k will get you everything easily, and it's not like you need to get everything at once. You can start with just hand tools and maybe a drill press and bandsaw, get a decent welder, can be done within $1k, $2k if you get an AC/DC TIG.

>> No.1561977

>>1561854
>Can I realistically expect to become a decent machinist for only a grand or two invested into training?
No, you need common sense and with time you will become one.

>> No.1561979

https://youtu.be/_eTSmQGEvwo?t=801

remember to bore your lathe soft jaws under or equal to the part diameter

>> No.1562041

>>1561936
Fuck no, I wouldn't let some random on my property to fuck with my machines neither would my insurance allow it.

>> No.1562045

Anyone use hsm works with solidworks? If so I have a problem with boring with lathe tools. I cannot get the boring bars to do a proper boring cycle. They will go into and bore out the id just fine but then fuck up and do like a facing op but cut through the entire part on the opposite side of where the boring bar entered.

>> No.1562076
File: 7 KB, 429x154, Captura.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1562076

what kind of math and formulas do you use at work apart of this?

>> No.1562089

>>1562076
imperial to metric conversions

>> No.1562227

>>1562076
What the actual fuck is that formula? RPM=SFMx3.82/Diameter

>> No.1562405

>>1562227
gonna wander a guess at this and say it's the metrique version of the formula

>> No.1562410

>>1561936
the machines at my college are beat to shit from years of dumbfuck students abusing them. I don't know if some machines being used by complete randoms would be better or wose.

>> No.1562536

Kind of a weird post but I don't know anything about machining and have been looking into it a bit for a project that I'm currently thinking of.

I want to add a supercharger bracket on my existing intake manifold. The intake manifold cuts off into two pieces. Thinking to get a quarter inch aluminum sheet and mount the holes over and basically cut out passages for the air, my question.. Is it doable WITHOUT the use of machining? What are some ways to cut a fairly thin piece of aluminum like that?

>> No.1562571

>>1562227
this >>1562405
I'm so used to metric I don't even think on imperial units, I'll translate:
RPM=(Cut speed · 1000)/(Pi·Diameter)
Vc is in spanish (Velocidad de corte), and the thousand is there because of milimeters

>> No.1562583

>>1562536
.25" is rativeky thick. Drill a hole, then thread a scroll saw blade through and use it to cut the profile.

>> No.1562612

>>1561962
I know how to do that on a mill but what about a lathe? I don't think I have an id threading tool small enough so I need to use a tap.

>> No.1562647

Ohio Forge 6” for $25,
Y/N?

>> No.1562716

>>1562647
if you're an idiot then yes, otherwise find one with shelves for resting your work on.

>> No.1562717

>>1562612
it should work on a lathe too

>> No.1562913
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1562913

>>1562716
>>1562647
Fucking stupid ass mobile IP range bans, I couldn’t even post a pic. I refuse to buy another bass because this shit started happening when Mook took over and it only happens once a year for maybe a month and it’s always the same time right after the 12 month pass expires.

Anyway I bought it. From a little old lady in Boca whose husband passed away. There was more woodworking stuff but there was an older Craftsman table saw for like $150 and a blue Ryobi miter saw she wanted $90 for and it was all super clean. This grinder is way better than I was expecting.

>> No.1562917
File: 831 KB, 250x250, Gillian.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1562917

>>1562913
>This grinder is way better than I was expecting.

With the stamped steel guards that are the anchor for your tool rests? And the plastic hardware holding the tool rest?
Looks like you got a steal there

>> No.1562923

>>1562917
The tool rests are metal, it’s all painted black but the thing was barely ever used. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s definitely closer to the $100+ grinders than all of the $40-$70 ones with tiny sheet metal tool rests.

I should’ve offered her $50 for the compressor while I was there, I don’t think it’s even on CL with the saws.

>> No.1562926

>>1562923
>ones with tiny sheet metal tool rests.

What good is having a slightly larger cast aluminum tool rest when its still mounted to a shitty stamped sheet metal guard?

If you were willing to buy used, why didnt you buy an actual quality bench grinder?

>> No.1562928

>>1562926
Because that one was $25 and only a couple minutes from my house so I know longer had to debate in my head whether or not I really needed the thing since it’s $25. 2 days worth of Dunkin or a not terrible Chinesium bench grinder?

>> No.1562929

>>1562913
that does look okay

>> No.1562930

>>1562917
they look like cast iron, a thin casting but okay

>> No.1562932

>>1562928
>bought the first cheap thing I saw, because im used to that sort of lazy and poor decision making

>> No.1562938

>>1562932
Actually, it was after looking at new ones online for awhile. For $40-$70, you get these tool holders that are little sheet metal tabs and for $100-$150 you can get a little bit better DeWalt or Craftsman, but then pro level ones are hundreds of dollhairs which I wasn’t going to spend right now considering I wasn’t sure if I was even going to buy the damn thing since I don’t really need it.

For $25, I’ll mess around with this for awhile and then if I need a $400+ industrial model, I’ll buy it. This is for my garage, not a metalworking shop.

>> No.1562940

>>1562938
>Actually, it was after looking at new ones online for awhile

So you opened up craigslist and literally bought the first one you saw
Bravo

>> No.1562945

>>1562940
There was an ancient one for $75, but it was located in the gay neighborhood and I wasn’t trying to pay $50 and a blowjob. Otherwise there was another one that came on a stand for ~$100, but it was one of those $100 Chinese models, can’t remember the brand but I saw it around. I didn’t go back too far because good stuff sells fast (this was posted over the weekend) but the other stuff beyond that was either overpriced stuff that didn’t fit my needs or pawn shops asking $60 for a $40 HF grinder.

If I explode this thing next weekend doing retarded stuff, I’ll go buy the ancient grinder for $100 and still not regret spending the $25.

>> No.1562947

>>1562945
>I’ll go buy the ancient grinder for $100 and still not regret spending the $25.

There is that impeccable logic again, 25% retard tax.

>> No.1562949

>>1562947
He didn't send any more money to China.

>> No.1562953
File: 46 KB, 600x442, 32F95C20-202C-4681-AEAB-439C3A515900.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1562953

>>1562947
I’m smarter than the average bear!

Pic related was the ancient one in the gay neighborhood that costs 20min as a bottom.

>> No.1562954
File: 25 KB, 600x450, 02EEDF05-B5BE-44EF-AC26-831013898394.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1562954

>>1562949
I coulda gone for pic related and saved $5.

>> No.1562957

>>1562954
>>1562953
Or you could have waited and looked for a deal instead of acting like a child with ADHD. Also thats a Companion bench grinder thats been spray painted. Though its still vastly superior to the one you bought.

>> No.1562975

>>1562957
>child with ADHD
I cannot deny what I am.

There is also a Delta on there for $100 that retails brand new for $100.

And that actually was a pretty good deal. 98% of the stuff on CL is overpriced or complete old trash. I am not disappointed with my $25 waste of money. I just spent $300 on Disney passes for the girl’s bday and now I need to figure out what to do for hotels, I’m gonna have fun with my $25.

>> No.1562993

>>1562945
>If I explode this thing next weekend doing retarded stuff
if that happens you won't be doing shit because you'll be in the hospital or dead

>> No.1563006
File: 2.08 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1563006

>>1562993
Nah bro my safety glasses will be nearby if something happens. It’s like a fire extinguisher- you hope that you never have to use them, but keep em close just in case.

>> No.1563034

>>1563006
Why are you posting non machinist things in this thread?

>> No.1563041
File: 126 KB, 640x480, 1998OkumaCadetMate4020-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1563041

>>1563034
He wants in on the fun, clearly.

I wonder how that guy ITT with the CNC lathe is doing? Where's that vidya he promised?

>> No.1563043

>>1563041
I'm actually that guy... Been slaving away on the damn thing for several days trying to get it to home in x & z but something is wrong and I get 510 overtravel alarms. I fear that I will have to fiddle with some over travel sensors in the morning.

Honestly if I provided videos of me moving the turret and the axes it would be super boring and I would rather post you guys vids of the machine cutting some cool stuff

>> No.1563044

>>1563034
a correct and maintained cutting geometry, being necessary for the boring of round holes, the right of the people to keep and sharpen drillbits shall not be infringed

>> No.1563047

>>1563034
Well I pretty much bought it because I needed to sharpen drill bits for makin holes in metal.

>> No.1563078

>>1563043
What machine did you get?

>> No.1563081

>>1563078
Leadwell gtc-25
Basic cnc lathe with fanuc ot controller no live tooling

>> No.1563099

>>1563081
Switch on the NC while press and holding P and CAN key.And you can do reference.

The P Can while powering up tells the NC to ignore soft limits that are set in parameters. This allows the machine to make it to limit switch and set zero position. If you are overtraveling at this point you should look at the limit switch and ensure it is functioning properly.

>> No.1563102

>>1563099
Limit switch for x-axix was ok.its wire connection with the T002D card in electrical cabinet was broken somewhere in between.when corrected machine was referenced uning CAN & P combibation and its working now.
thanks all

>> No.1563104

>>1563102
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/fanuc/45799-alarm-510-overtravel-x.html

https://en.industryarena.com/forum/fanuc-om-over-travel--53821.html

The fanuc forum might be useful.

>> No.1563286

>>1563099
I'll give it a try and report back later.

>>1563102
did you have the same problem?

>> No.1563433
File: 1.31 MB, 640x1136, IMG_5589.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1563433

machining is comfy

>> No.1563528

>>1563433
>cutting a part out of brass
>get brass powder for chips because I was trying to dial my final dimension in .005 at a time
>mixes with oil and sticks to everything
>try to blow it off with air hose but only manage to spray brass powder all over myself while still being mostly stuck to the machine
"comfy"

>> No.1563541

>>1563528
>using oil on brass
For what purpose.
>I wasn't
Clean your machine your filthy animal.

>> No.1563549

>>1563528
reminds me of machining cast iron, it flakes off in little bitty powdery pieces

>> No.1563576

>>1563286
>did you have the same problem?

that was a quote from the forum post

>> No.1563585
File: 1.01 MB, 1560x2080, 0225191057.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1563585

>>1563576
>>1563286
reporting back now, that fixed it and the machine is now homed. I'm going to try and run a program later tomorrow when I get off work.

we doing it boys.

>> No.1563678

>>1563585
Kind of exciting.

>> No.1564257

how do I prevent my drills from sagging in their holders? it's making them drill off center and fucking up my parts.

>> No.1564261

>>1564257
They should find their way back to center when contacting the face of the part from the rotation.

Otherwise, just use a proper center drill of some kind, possibly an NC spot drill to make a center for the drill point to find and follow.

Short thick tools that shouldn't wander like a drill.

>> No.1564282

>>1564261
I center drilled but it still ended up fucked up.

>> No.1564294

>>1564282
drills must not be on center?

>> No.1564295
File: 680 KB, 862x921, I want my pie cut into radial thirds.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1564295

>>1563528
If I have to rough brass or even just do a heap of parts I violate a piece of sheetmetal into a curved shield that sits against the top of the toolholder and curls over the insert seat to force the chips downward, I think there's like two mangled ones behind my lathe but I can never find them when I need them so I always end up having to make a new one every time.

>> No.1564300

>>1564294
that's what I was saying. either the drill is crooked in the holder or the holder isn't indexing on the turret correctly.

>> No.1564301

>>1564300
Pics?

>> No.1564303

>>1564300
Surely you can set the zero for the drill in the turret position.

>> No.1564418

>>1564303
it's off in the y axis which is why I think it's tool sag. I don't know how to fix it other than getting a bigger holder so there's more area clamping on the drill.

>> No.1564538

>>1564295
Fucking hell, that meme is too real.

At work we've got a few old manual Horizontal boring mills with horribly worn out morse taper spindles, then you get guys who run their tooling in a socket that sticks out nearly a foot and wonder why all the endmills and drills are making oversize holes.

>> No.1564573

>>1564295

And i'm already bitching that my tapping head has a z offset of 250ish mm.

But thats what you get for your only bt40 capto holder beeing a long one.

>> No.1564797
File: 120 KB, 745x580, mazak spindle torque.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1564797

Quick diversion, so... these CNC spindle motors will only produce these high-torque numbers for a few minutes/hours?

This should be common knowledge damnit. If you set your toolpaths to take advantage of that horsepower then run it for 15 minutes and it starts bogging down that would be nice to know.

>> No.1564802

>>1564418
A drill ain't gonna sag too much unless it's a gun drill.

>> No.1564803

>>1564797
It's not that it'll bog down after that time, it's that it'll overheat. The power/time chart is to prevent motor damage from thermal excess.

>> No.1564806

>>1564803
so at 12k RPM it will only reliably do 7.5kw and around 35 ft/lb of torque?

>tfw 10hp spindle at 12k rpm

>> No.1564822

>>1564806
Continuously yes. Are you really going to have a spindle pushing 100% load for hours nonstop?

>> No.1564824

>>1564822
I suspect that will be hard to do with small aluminum parts, but you never know.

>> No.1564830

>>1564824
So no part change, no tool change, just continuous machining with no repositions or retracts.

cool

>> No.1564831

When making 3d models of a print, do you model the dimensions at the large end of the tolerance, i.e., more material left end of tolerance, or right in the middle or what?

>> No.1564835

>max Mazatrol program storage: 32mb

>> No.1564837

>>1564835
Nice, most of the controllers I work with are 1mb~

I end up drip feeding or running programs off card readers

>> No.1564840

>>1564837
Haas controls are up to like 64gb

That alone is just so much a reason to choose haas.

>> No.1564842

>>1564837
they also offer an option to drip feed over ethernet

>> No.1564845

>>1564840
>>1564842
To be honest it's never really been an issue. I'd honestly choose machine build/capability over controller size unless it's a fucking Fagor controller.

Fuck those and fuck the horse they rode on.

>> No.1564846

>>1564845
lmao the indian tech support guy for that one toolroom cnc I got a quote on a while back was trying to tell me "you haev to get quote on fagor controller we not have other controller right now"

that was many threads ago, fuck that guy.

>> No.1564850

>>1564845
my thoughts are it's just one more nuisance if you have to dnc it or shuffle files around, I like things like cloud storage and terabyte hard drives because I hardly ever lose data. Being able to store it on the controller and perform logic for probing macros and shit is the way to go.

plus who knows, in 20 years the parts people are making might all be 2mb file crazy generative design stuff.

>> No.1565094

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCpGJmmeA2U

>> No.1565178

>>1564850
>perform logic for probing macros
Post example of probe macro code pls.

>> No.1565231

>>1560931
Did exactly that. Preparing diy lathe headstock with hole saw. No problem cutting steel but as some already said it's so wobbly it's as precise as handfiling.

I have problems with reaming holes. Indicated the reamer and tir is below 0.01mm. Indicating the flutes they vary by more than 0.05mm. The reamer is a new german made one though. My holes (3H7) are so big that I can see the play of the pins. Obviously completely useless for locating parts. It's my first time using a reamer what did I do wrong?

>> No.1565242

>>1564831
Typically in the middle

>> No.1565331

>>1565231
is the reamer hss or carbide? what is your predrill size and reamer? what machine are you using to ream?

>> No.1565346

>>1565231
>Indicating the flutes they vary by more than 0.05mm
>.05mm on reamer flutes
Dial it in at the flutes to under 0.01mm, even that isn't great but it should cut better.

>> No.1565351

>>1565231
floating reamer holder?

Did you chuck up on the shank or something? They usually have a long shank so they can flex a little bit, if you want it to cut a bigger hole you can shorten the shank on it and the runout forces will make it cut bigger.

>> No.1565361

Speaking of reaming, I've been trying to speed up the reaming cycle on a 9" through hole that's 1" in diameter. Pilot hole is 31/32", no issues there.

Current reamer is an HSS with through-spindle coolant, spins pretty true, hole size is okay. I wrote a program to start it slow RPM and speed up once it's cutting properly using G95 to increase RPM and feedrate. Our machine doesn't have the coolant pressure to push chips out of the flutes past 1800RPM, and slowing down the feed tends to chatter while speeding up feed doesn't have a good enough surface finish.

What do? I don't have the budget for a proper good reamer like the Ingersoll Qwik-Ream. Are there cheaper options that could help me cut a better hole faster?

>> No.1565379

>>1565361
9" reamed hole? damn.

>> No.1565415

>>1565379
It's good 7075T6 but yeah I'm scratching my head here. I'll keep looking for cheaper reamer tools, gonna see if the tool guy can find me some Komet Dihart reamers, after some looking around they seem to be cheaper.

>> No.1565505

>>1565331
HSS Reamer. I predill 2.8mm. The machine is a smallish milling machine.

>>1565346
How do i do that? Lightly tap the reamer? I tapped the collet nut to move the runout but that will only get me about 0.01mm.

>>1565351
Er32 collet chuck. It's quite far out maybe 4-5cm. The neck is reliefed. Shouldnt be too stiff.

Collet chuck and spindle taper have a runout way below 0.005mm not sure about the chinese collet though. Also i predrilled using a collet.

>> No.1565577

I have a part that's supposed to be .656 in diameter with a knurl in the middle third of it. I accidentally fucked up the knurl when I had it in a vise. do you think I can just turn the knurl off and redo it and it will still look right? there's no tolerance on the knurl dimension it just has to look ok.

>> No.1565601

>>1563585
How do you actually load a g-code into that thing?

>> No.1565609

>>1564837
They're likely using stone-age memory technology. Today you could come up with a CNC controller based on an inexpensive chip and just leave a 256gb class 10 micro-sd card on it just for storage.

>> No.1565655

>>1565601
Smoke signals

There's a rs232 port on the side where the electricity shut off is

>> No.1565854

>>1565601
I've seen a fanuc controller so old that the button to output a program was "punch" like a punch card.

>> No.1565886

how safe is spinning a 12" or so lathe chuck at high RPM?

what is "high rpm" to a modern CNC lathe machinist?

>> No.1565889

>>1565886
You'll get less and less clamping torque as the RPM increases. Also I hope it's turning true or you might get a vibration.

>> No.1566023

>>1565889
what kind of RPM would you consider maximum for a 3" OD rod a foot long?

>> No.1566026

>>1566023
what material

>> No.1566029

>>1566026
steel

>> No.1566031

>>1566029
There's often a clamp load rating written on the chuck, compare it to a clamp vs rpm chart (google)

>> No.1566033

>>1566031
that's good to know

>> No.1566313

>>1565505
stick the reamer out reasonably far out of the collet but not too far, make sure your set up is rigid. slow feeds and slow speeds when reaming. use cutting oil. check what your pre drill hole size is after you drill it.

>> No.1566739

Why are verticals so popular?

Why are horizontals some kind of black magic for most small shops?

>> No.1566750

>>1566739

I have not run a horizontal, but aren't they harder to setup the work on as you must hold it into the vice? For smaller shops doing short run work you are spending more time doing setups where gravity helps you and the gain in efficiency from improved chip evacuation is not as important.

>> No.1566796

>>1566739
The only area they have a real advantage is when you have a massive workpeice since they're only restricted in two direction, in the Naval machining world they're more common than verticals but most civilian industries don't have a need for the capability.

>> No.1566805

>>1566796
weird, the farmer down the road from me has like 5 mazak horizontals

farm machinery is pretty big i guess

>> No.1567053
File: 1.52 MB, 2048x1536, mill.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1567053

>>1566739
Verticals are typically for heavier shit. Only ones I'd see used were old iron used for prepping big/heavy stock since they're so rigid.

Now it's irrelevant. Since most new machines being put in are 5 axis anyways.
>>1566805
Are they horizontal mills or boring mills?

>>1566796
This isn't necessarily true. There's lots of 'civilian' industries that use horizontal/boring mills. Any large industry(mining, construction, power generation, etc) has need for work on massive castings.

>> No.1567518

why the hell is it so hard to find a 3/8 zrn coated 3flute rough n' finish 40 or 45 degree helix variable flute with 0.030" corner radius and 1" length of cut?

>> No.1567565

>>1567518
May have to get a shop to custom make them for you

>> No.1567568

>>1567565
yeah I was thinking that.

The last two TAS roughers I ordered from lakeshore carbide have been pretty shitty too. Chatter like crazy while variable flutes run silent.

>> No.1567574

>>1567568
Have you tried Maritool? I hear they might have better endmills.

>> No.1567576
File: 209 KB, 499x405, 1538305598524.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1567576

>>1567518
chances are if you can't find it it's either
A.niche AF
B.there's a better tool for the job
C.difficult to manufacture/doesn't scale

>when your shop has a guy who used to work in a tooling shop
>will custom grind and resharpen just about anything

Problem is shit moves so fast now. You've got machines screaming along and munching inserts/endmills in hard material, with such high tolerances and 0 room for error. Fucking tool reps love it.

>> No.1567577

@everyone

>> No.1567622
File: 79 KB, 960x720, Down+Cut+Milling.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1567622

why do so many boomer sources mention needing a backlash eliminator to climb mill?

all the glorious british made mills and lathes ranging from 1960s to 2010s I have used all have backlash equally in both directions so I don't see how the direction of cut would make a difference

even without a digital readout you would have to be a pretty sigificant jelly dougnut to let a little bit of cheeky backlash effect your cuts

>> No.1567633
File: 2.23 MB, 2576x1932, 20190305_110436[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1567633

How about some machining pORn?

It is a telescope mount with hand hobbed gears on it. Most of the aluminum is anodized a very subtle white color which is very hard to see.

I never appreciated how many tiny operation went into every part on it.

The metal part made to hold the on/off switch, the capacitor for the motor plus a neon bulb for the "on" indicator took what appears to be around 15-20 separate machining operations, done in the days before CNC

Sadly I did let it get a bit rusted in a damp place but luckily I can clean it off.

The counterweight inside held some information, the specs for the anodizing, a date plus a name

>> No.1567638
File: 1.87 MB, 2576x1932, 20190305_110414[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1567638

>>1567633
More?

This is the main gear that drives the mount.

A guy on eBay "erbyers" is retiring and selling off his last gears plus some tooling.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/erbyers/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

>> No.1567643

>>1567576
most manufacturers probably wouldn't care about this specific tool much, but I don't have a tool changer and this tool will do basically everything I want on 3 different parts of an assembly.

It's like every fancy feature rolled into one tool.

>variable flute smooth silent cutting
>rough 'n finish to break up the chip and evacuate better but still leave a good finish
>corner radius for no fragile corner edges that build up heat and snap off when they dull, can act like a ball nose for 3d surfacing
>ZRN coating for Aluminum
>

>>1567622
lmao go give it a try on a manual mill with an acme screw and bronze nut, you'll see

>> No.1567693

Is there any way to tighten up the bezel/dial on a test indicator?
I just got a used Mitutoyo cheap, its got a plastic dial but its pretty loose, like going to lose zero type of loose.

My only other test indicator is a chinese one and its pretty tight.

>> No.1567701

>>1567622
the cutter is pulling the table ahead of the leadscrew, but it vibrates so you can't be sure it's taken up ALL of the backlash. so you can't trust your handwheel if you have to stop at a critical dimension.
don't know why you'd need some special backlash eliminator though. stick an indicator on as a stop, job jobbed.

>> No.1568005

>>1567693
my interapid bezel is a bit loose, but that makes it easier to rotate it without moving the indicator and screwing up the reading

unless it actually rotates around for some reason it's probably fine, and likely preferable

>> No.1568007

>>1567622
the table vibrates back and forth during the cut, it will absolutely fuck up your tool and instantly make you look like a retard for trying it

>> No.1568065

>>1567622
Physics inherit to the engineering. Go ahead, try to climb cut something more than .005 deep and you'll find out.

>> No.1568074

>>1567622
Climb milling on a milling machine with no backlash elimination system goes really really well. Makes beautiful cuts, everything goes fine.

UNTIL YOUR ENDMILL FUCKING EXPLODES.

>> No.1568159
File: 198 KB, 615x247, peter zelinski quote.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1568159

I wonder how true this is. I am considering upgrading to a horizontal within a year or two.

>> No.1568181

reading modern machine shop, some german company stamps divots into their stock with a press instead of machining dovetails for workholding with a small amount of stock

>> No.1568568

I'm trying to tap a 1/2-13 hole on the lathe but it's not working. first the tap was just forcing my part back into the spindle, and then when I remade it with a shoulder so it couldn't go back it spun the part in the spindle or the tap in the collet. I don't have an id single point tool that's big enough for the thread but also small enough to fit in the hole.

>> No.1568579

>>1568568
that's very odd, can you post pictures?
cnc or manual? if manual then the hole ID isn't big enough and your gorilla arms are running that tailstock too hard

what's the hole dimension?

>> No.1568580

>>1568568
you aren't running it in reverse are you?

>> No.1568635

>>1568568
Why can't it be tapped by hand, what's the part and tap material?

>> No.1568657

>>1568568
inb4 toy benchtop lathe

>> No.1568681

>>1568579
was on a haas sl-10. hole was drilled with 27/64 according to the tap drill chart.

>>1568635
I tapped it by hand at first but it ended up crooked and my arms got tired because I had to crank on it so much. part is 1018, tap was hss. it's possible the tap was just dull as shit. it was the last one in the drawer.

>> No.1568683

>>1568681
Tap is dull/not enough clamping. It might also be a bottoming tap a dull plug tap, a starter tap is better when you have a hard time clamping a part.

>> No.1568684

>>1568681
>75% thread
For what purpose?

>> No.1568686

>>1568684
>not 75%
Oh no, he's retarded

>> No.1568690

>>1568686
Educate yourself. http://www.tapmatic.com/tapping_questions_torque_vs_thread_strength.ydev

>> No.1568699

>>1568683
it was a plug tap. I programmed it to go in and out .05 at a time. it got about 5 threads deep before I stopped it because I was afraid it was going to cross thread itself.

>> No.1568702

>>1568699
It's a CNC, why would it cross thread itself? You don't know how to rigid tapping cycle?

>> No.1568713

>>1568702
Well if it was spinning in the chuck/moving into the jaws it would.

>>1568699
Why are you peck tapping like that? It's not a 1/16" drill.

>> No.1568716

>>1560121
What are some key things to know for a brand new machinist, I’m talking completely fresh slate type new.

>> No.1568719

>>1568713
it wasn't a spiral tap and the machine doesn't have coolant so I was worried the tap would break if I didn't back out to break the chip.

>> No.1568724

>>1568719
Is it through or blind?

>> No.1568747

>>1568716
Listen to the old timers for anything that isn't full on technical engineering shit, unlike this anon
>>1567622
Most of them don't know shit about coolant types or fancy tool geometries but if they tell you something is a bad idea, it's probably a bad idea.

>Drill chucks are for Z feeding only, don't put endmills and such in them.
>If your hand isn't on the key, it better not be in the chuck.
>fear is healthy and you should have a healthy amount of it
>treat everything like it will maim you permanently in a heartbeat

>> No.1568765

>>1568724
through. it is a 7" tube with the id drilled out to the tap diameter.

>> No.1568773

>>1568765
if it's a through-hole then what are you worried about using a regular old tap?

>> No.1568774

>>1568765
you didn't try running a form tap through it did you?

>> No.1568775

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HAMflNE8Vw

>> No.1568778

>>1568773
can't chips still build up in the tap flutes?

>> No.1568794

>>1568778
is the material expensive or something? I honestly wouldn't even worry about it, just put some tap magic on the tap and run it in there

>> No.1568916

I'm looking to get into milling. I know next to nothing, so expect some retardation. First up, in this price range, is this about as good a machine as I can get?
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Mill-Drill-with-Stand/G0704

I'll primarily want this for working on bronze and brass and crap, but steel is cheap so it'll probably see more of that while I fuck around with it.

>> No.1568917

>>1568916
Buy used. If it's not 2 tons, it's shit.

>> No.1568957

>>1568917
Problem is my ability to transport it and the lack of availability in my area. The convenience of that model is nice, and when I have better means and options, I can upgrade later.
Gotta keep in mind, I am an absolute rookie here. A machine like that could very well learn me some basic abilities, then I could recoup a little money passing it on to another rookie in a few years. I wholeheartedly understand the mentality of buying a used machine, but it's just not an option at this time. People around me only sell "shopsmith" do-it-all machines.
So from my perspective, it's logistically the right move to go with one of these table mounted machines. Can I do better for the money with this info?

>> No.1568963

>>1568774
ooh that's a thought.
but you'd think he'd notice something being fucky when the OD of the tube has grown and there are no chips to clear.

>> No.1569001

>>1568568
sounds like not enough clamping pressure.

>> No.1569016

>>1568916
That machine was 1000 on sale last year before the tariffs hit. Not worth the money

>> No.1569017

>>1568957
Rent a Uhaul, wait a few months.
This is a machine tool, it should sit in your shop for years. Don't be hasty

>> No.1569075

>>1568794
the material isn't but I only have this one tap so if it breaks I'm fucked for a while

>>1569001
we just had the hydraulics fixed recently and it's seemed like there's been less clamping pressure ever since. I don't know if that's because there was too much before it broke or because it's set too low now.

>> No.1569078

>>1569075
if the part is spinning in the spindle you have inadequate clamping force or the jaws are not correct for the item being clamped, so basically turn up the clamping force or make softjaws for the part

>> No.1569148
File: 1.03 MB, 800x600, quick and dirty.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1569148

>>1568917
my old P&W is like 7k lbs, so 3 tons

it was also $1,500 because the guy wanted the room for another CNC machine pretty badly

it works and it peels off material like nobody's business with 7.5hp, but a cnc lathe in the 4-5 HP range would probably be more useful.

CNC is amazing

>>1568963
lol

>>1569078
this, try turning a close-fitting rod for the ID of the tube and then he can really clamp that fucker down without crushing it

>> No.1569152

>>1565505
I spend a lot of money and got myself some good quality collets. I was really ethusiastic about trying them out. I just did and it's exactly the same shit as before. It's driving me insane. The collets have a guarantueed runout of less than 0.015mm and i trust them. The only thing i can't measure is the collet nut. I tried two different ones and get exactly the same runout though. 0.05mm runout is for drill chucks and not for reamers in collets. I'm out of ideas about what is going wrong.
plz halp

>> No.1569244

>>1565505
Play with the RPM and your feed rates. If you're on a manual mill, try 300-400RPM and a modest feed rate. Also don't pull the reamer in and out if you're doing that. It should be sent through in one go, maybe two pecks at most for an exceptionally deep hole like 4+ inches.

>> No.1569248

>>1569152
Make sure your shit is clean. If there's chips or heavy oil inside the collet/on the shank/anywhere it'll throw it off. Also sometimes you just have to take it apart and put it back together a couple times.

>> No.1569276

>>1569152
if it is a collet chuck you should try aligning it to the center of the bore before putting a collet in it

>> No.1569292

Anyone here 724/412 have a precision level I can borrow to set up a lathe?

>> No.1569294

>>1565505
Did you insert the ER32 collet into the groove properly?

>> No.1569359

>>1569244
can you really go that fast? I've only done it on manual machines before but it was at 80-120 rpm and if you tried to feed too fast or didn't constantly clear chips it would bind up and then you would break the reamer.

>> No.1569377

>>1569359
How much material did you leave for reaming? Ideally you only want a thou or two per side, maybe a little more if it's a big reamer. And you have to use oil. If the reamer is binding there's something going on or you're feeding stupidly fast.

>> No.1569394

>>1569377
I roughed it out with the next smallest drill. I should mention that it was using form reamers with 2 shoulders.

>> No.1569445

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/58996539

the product list PDF from SGS says that tool (Mfr Part #: 34305) has a 20 thou corner radius, but MSC says it's a 10 thou. Who do I believe?

The catalog is for 2019.

>> No.1569453

>>1569445
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_1ge0eDLnY

>> No.1569541

>>1569248
i always wipe every taper with my hand before installing.

>>1569276
Everything is aligned as it should be.

>>1569294
yes

Checked the chuck again and it's fine. Tried the other high quality collets i bought with everything i could find and with different orientations and torques. First some (chinese) end mills. Started to get disappointed again. I got about 0.05mm runout. The only other thing i had in that size was a chinese boring bar i never expected to be round and straight at all. It had runout of less than 0.01mm.

This led me to investigate further. The runout stayed the same when rotating the end mills so i checked them on the surface plate and yes repeatably got the same runout. Memo: Never buy cheap tools again (except boring bars. They are even better than i expected!)

So i thought i maybe did something wrong when checking the reamer on the surface plate. Checked it again and nope, still below 0.01mm. The only other things i have in 3mm are a small endmill (TIR <0.01mm but very short) and drills (TIR < 0.04mm) but drills probably aren't very straight.

So the reamer has to be distorted by clamping it in a collet somehow. Very strange i think. I may just buy a new one but that sucks as i spent extra money to avoid these kind of problems and it's not even safe that this will solve the problem.

Maybe i rather should invest the money in micro boring bars, small hole gauges and skip reaming. How can i measure holes below 3mm besides gauge pins?

>> No.1569544

>>1569541
they're like snap gauges but different

https://www.msi-viking.com/Starrett-S829EZ-Small-Hole-Gage-4-in-Case-125-40032-102mm_p_3261.html

>> No.1569545

>>1569541
I wonder if you could put an analog probe in your turret and use the machine to probe it?

Like the Haimer 3d sensor, I have one, it's okay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bow_MPkNBeI

>> No.1569600

>>1569545
I wonder if I could put that in my ass instead

>> No.1569658

>>1569544
Those are too big.

>>1569545
I know how. I could use an indicater Like when locating a bore and then use a micrometer like a variable gauge Block stack (i dont have a set yet) and close it until the indicator Shows the same Reading. Should Work down to 1mm maybe less.

>> No.1569724

>>1569600
>anons asshole is .7in out of tolerance.

>> No.1569733

Just accepted a job in an aerospace machine shop doing shipping/receiving and apprenticing, what's some basic shit I should know first day or what are some good youtube channels?

>> No.1569740

>>1569733
Shut up and do as you're told.

>> No.1569741

>>1569740
You mean I'm not already better than everyone else there? As a millenial that doesn't compute

>> No.1569757

>>1569724
It just needs a good reaming

>> No.1569872

Having some trouble with chatter during thread milling.

Only taking 5 thou radially per pass, single form thread mill with 4 flutes.

Does it need to be loaded more or something?

>> No.1569878

>>1569872
thread milling aluminum, .388 diameter tool, 40 ipm, 5000rpm, 4flute

>> No.1569881

>>1569878
>>1569872
im running it this slow because so the squeal is low enough to hardly worry about

>> No.1569897
File: 9 KB, 590x498, threading.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1569897

>>1569881
What angle is your tool in contact with the work at? I found mine would bounce around a bit unless the cutting edge was under the perpendicular work edge by about 10 degrees. See pic related. I don't think its really "proper" but it works for me.

>> No.1569914

>>1569541
collet nut forcing it out of alignment?

>> No.1569957

is cnc worth the cost for a specialty shop that almost never makes the same part more than once? I thought it wasn't but the more I use it the more I never want to touch manual again.

>> No.1569964

What do I use to hold hss tooling on a lathe? I can't really find any tool holders online.

>> No.1569975

>>1569964
Get a rest and hold it with your hand, like on a wood lathe. HSS tooling is for the more 'artsy' turning where you make freeform curves.

>> No.1570046

>>1569957
Depends on what you normally get. Basic blocks? Probably not. Anything more complex than a plate with a bolt circle? Probably.

>> No.1570067

>>1569897
I have no idea... That looks like a turning thing to me.

>> No.1570068
File: 382 KB, 1483x369, drone propeller.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1570068

>>1569957
How the hell else can you make stuff like this?

>> No.1570168

>>1570068
By not being an actual nigger

>> No.1570208
File: 588 KB, 1197x797, drone propeller2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1570208

>>1570168
lmao yeah okay when you get tired of putting hundreds of man hours into making something even remotely complicated like that, and investing enough into tooling to buy a fucking CNC, and all just to stand there and crank handles while eating chips and smoke, then you can tell me how awesome manual is compared to cnc.

>> No.1570210

>>1570208
>investing enough into tooling to buy a fucking CNC,

You going to run a CNC without tooling?
You are going to be investing a lot in tooling regardless

>> No.1570213

>>1570210
Need a round hole slightly larger than a nominal size? better buy a tool the right size or set up the boring head for it.

Want a radius? Oh fuck let me set up the rotary table for it. Want radiused edges? oh fuck better buy a corner rounding tool the right radius

angled surface? well shit let me cock the head on the mill and do some complicated math

lots of holes to drill? shit, let me just write all the coordinates out and then follow the primitive program manually

betta hope you don't fuck up and move the table too far too because then all that work is practically wasted.

>> No.1570218

>>1570213
>angled surface? well shit let me cock the head on the mill and do some complicated math
sounds like you're just unskilled lmao

>> No.1570222

>>1570208
>>1569957
Depends on what you are making like >>1570046 says.

I work in a fab machine shop. My company sells and installs Fanuc arms (usually to other machine shops kek).
I dont touch any of that side of the shop, my job is to make custom brackets and other one off parts the robotics guys need for their installs. Also we take in custom part orders from outside sources too, but 85% of the job is in house robotics work.

We do both manual and CNC, for whichever is more efficient. We have a row of Mazaks, but I find myself just making parts on the bridgeports just as often. Sometimes its just not worth it to set a program up.

>> No.1570226

>>1570222
are you using cam software to make the programs? because if I had to use the conversational or write it manually I would be a bit more hesitant as well. If you have the cam software and good work holding you have everything you need to run the part with the tools you have and get the expected result every time.

if it's truly dead simple stuff though, sure why not

>> No.1570239

>>1570222
what kinds of parts? I've been finding that even for simple things like a threaded plug would take me at least an hour on a manual machine but less than 30 minutes on cnc including programming.

>> No.1570334

>>1570226
>>1570239
I guess I should have prefaced it with the fact that a lot of my work are brackets, so they are cut to size with a water jet and a lot of times bent on a brake press before they even get to me. I put steps or clearance or tapped holes etc etc.

I use the onboard Mazatrol, so conversational. There is CAM software on PCs, but I havent been trained on it yet. Im still less than a year in and we are taking it slow.
I pretty much only do it when I have more than a handful of identical parts.

Granted I dont do a lot of very complicated work like >>1570068
We do get some crazy orders like that, and its obviously done on CNC from the senior guys.

>> No.1570565
File: 1.68 MB, 3024x4032, IMG_5130.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1570565

Hi guys, I have an issue, I am making a piston cylinder valve See pic related.... follow up inbound with question.

>> No.1570568
File: 1.67 MB, 3024x4032, IMG_5131.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1570568

>>1570565
The cam follower at the end of the piston goes through a hole at the end of the cylinder. When I insert the piston backwards, it all fits smoothly and slides properly but when I try and install it correctly, the hole for the follower is slightly misaligned with the bore and the piston cant go all the way in easily.

I can open the follower hole a little as it is not critical if it seals but if I make it too large the spring for the valve will not have an edge to push from. Any ideas on how I can get this to work without turning a new cylinder?

In the attached image, the dot in the hole is the center of my follower, as you can see it is out of concentricity by a fair amount.

>> No.1570586

>>1570568
indicate where you want it and bore with a small boring bar or endmill to the correct position?

>> No.1570595

>>1570586
It verked! Danke

>> No.1570673

Every time I see a CNC machine without a laptop running CAM software next to it in an advertisement, it makes me lose respect for the company.

>> No.1570675

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arOvbznS87E

Taiwan stepping up and building a small 5-axis.

>> No.1570759

Apparently altering the Z height on your finishing passes can remove those little streaks from the finish if your rougher leaves marks in predictable places and it wears streaks in your finisher, run the finisher again with a different Z height.

chamfering titanium/hardshit can also wear a groove into your corner round, use a roughing pass with a beater tool like a drill mill first.

>> No.1570848

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57ZyBAfIUIA

damn, nice fixturing

>> No.1570867

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwIeDGQvEdY

>yo dawg i herd you like vises
>so i put a tiny grinding vise on your vise

>> No.1570998

Im going to buy a pair of beater harbor freight calipers today, I dont want to beat up my Mitutoyos doing random stuff.

Pair one says +- .001in / 0.03mm ($20)
Pair two says +- .001in / 0.02mm ($15)

Menards sells calipers identical to pair two, for the same price. and they state +- .001 / 0.01mm

Are the specs pretty much all bunk then?
I want the $20 pair, but not if they are going to be less accurate. But seeing the accuracy discrepancy at Menards makes me wonder.
I would think they would have all the same accuracy right?

>> No.1571001

>>1570998
>I would think they would have all the same accuracy right?
>chinkshit
>having standards
>laughingwhores.png

>> No.1571091
File: 3.73 MB, 4160x3120, 20190310_142505.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571091

I making a thing and need some help... Here is the print....

>> No.1571094
File: 732 KB, 1440x1440, 1552243003137272227332.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571094

Here is what I have to work with. The bit walks even with a 90 degree dimple started.

>> No.1571095

My plan was to drill from both sides to get the holes in correct position. I can deal with some wallow out the holes later by making different dia pins for these holes.

>> No.1571099

>>1570998
Here's some $50 SPI brand ones.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/54325766

Half the price of the mitutoyo, probably decent calipers. That said when my dad was still alive as a tool and die maker he used the chinese ones as beater calipers. Let me look around for the brand.

It's these ($30).
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/76367069

>> No.1571107

>>1571094
>>1571091
shorter stiffer bit?

can you start the hole with a center drill or an NC spot drill until you have a hole to start the regular drill with?

>> No.1571108

>>1571094
You need to spot drill to at least the diameter of the drill on the angle that you plan to drill at, having a 90 degree dimple isn't going to do much to prevent the bit from walking since it isn't allowing the drill to have even contact between the flutes, you might even have some success coming in with an endmill to create an angled flat, but that's a bit sketchy with just a drill press and Jacobs chuck.

>> No.1571113

>>1571107
Nc spot drill? I am but a humble hobbyist with no real machine experience except for some 80 ar lowers.

>> No.1571116

>>1571108
Sketchy is what I have. I dont mind doing things the hard way since that is all I have. Ill try cutting the bit short for more rigidity.

>> No.1571121

>>1571116
What kind of drill bits are you using in the first place?
Are they sharp high quality bits?

You can buy center drills at harbor freight for very little money that should work. If of course you have a harbor freight nearby.

>> No.1571125

>>1571121
This bit is from a Milwaukee hss set. And a drill doctor that can make split points that is one of my favorite tools.

>> No.1571138

>>1571116
Yeah, if you take a regular drill bit and cut it down/resharpen it to where you've got almost no flute left that's probably going to be your best bet, go slowly and peck to try and minimize deflection until you've gotten below the surface, although you're going to have a hard time holding that +_ 0.001" tolerance without reaming.

You could also try grinding something like a single flute "D" style drillbit since your working with something so small.

>> No.1571153

>>1571138
I dont mind the .001 tolerance.. Ill try your first thought and see how it goes. Mind you I have zero faith in me or my tools to land the hole in an exact spot on the back side. Im just being realistic.

>> No.1571155

>>1571091
So what is this thing?

>> No.1571174

>>1571155
Breech plate/block for leinad dbl barrel derringer kit.

>> No.1571187

>>1571155
The rusty plate thing is a jig I threw together to drill the side plates as accurately as I can. I added some more to it to help hold this small piece steady.

>> No.1571457
File: 1.44 MB, 1920x1080, IMG_5146.TRIM(1).webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571457

I got my valve working! Brass cast from bullet casings in my backyard and springs I made with guitar strings.

Fuck yeah. The seals even work well.

>inb4 someone steals my fingerprints and drains my bank account

>> No.1571459

>>1571457
>losing your screwdriver in an enginebay

>> No.1571468

>>1571457
I'm guessing that's some sort of valve for an airgun right?

>> No.1571470

>>1571457
It's less about the fingerprints and more the shading of your nails combined with the color of the grime on your fingers can help narrow down your approximate location to within 30 meters

>> No.1571475

>>1571094
can you spotface with an endmill before you drill?

>> No.1571480
File: 694 KB, 4000x6000, cross section.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571480

>>1571468
Steam engine

>>1571470
Welp I'm fucked then

>> No.1571484
File: 2.98 MB, 1500x844, boiler(1).webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571484

>>1571480

>> No.1571491
File: 817 KB, 890x581, well fuck.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571491

so I got wasted and drunkbought this fuckin thing.
I get her all hooked up to the ol' rotoverter and she powers up, then immediately goes into estop and clicks off the servo power relays. Meter says my line voltages are 230 230 270 so I figure shitty power is giving it a conniption fit. Work on the power, or sell the dynapath control and servos and re-control with centroid acorn + clearpath? If dubs just put handles on it and make it a manual.

>> No.1571495

>>1571491
Drunk you has great taste! have you inspected it in person yet?

>> No.1571501

>>1571495
yeah she's in my shop right now but won't chooch. Mechanically in great shape, I'm debating 1)selling the old control and servo setup and putting on Centroid Acorn + ClearPath servos 2) fucking around with my discount 30hp rotoverter to make the power cleaner and hope she likes it 3) converting her back to manual and just rolling with that. I think I like it more than my bridgeport.

>> No.1571538

>>1571491
that looks really junky. does it have ballscrews?

>> No.1571581

>>1571491
That things looks pretty useful, I would definitely Mach 4/LinuxCNC it rather than work with outdated electronics that will require you to connect a laptop to it constantly for drip feeding anyway. Just control it with a PC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57ZyBAfIUIA

some motivation

>> No.1571605

>>1561291
I do this all day for my day job. Lazy way is use a tapered cutter and just offset whatever the slope is and take lots of passes. Just watch the inside corners.
Sane way is use cad (like fusion 360) to extrude the text with a nice draft angle and mill the slope out properly.
The fancy way to do it is mill a slot in graphite and edm it out, but I don't see many hobbiests with access to EDM machines.

>>1561632
Man I'm excited for how fast freecad is improving.

>>1561667
Is that like a poverty spec die sink EDM

>> No.1571692

>>1571605
>mill the slope out properly.
what is properly? do you still have to do a final pass with a taper endmill?

>The fancy way to do it is mill a slot in graphite and edm it out
can you explain this? I have an edm I can use. for graphite do you mean for the electrode?

>> No.1571695

>>1571538
it definitely does, it was built as a CNC

>> No.1571716

>>1571538
It sure does. It's halfway a bridgeport clone, just with a bed instead of a knee. The z head is counterweighted and has breddy gud travel. It's Taiwanese, converted to cnc by "seigner heiber" in the 80s. Dynapath delta 30 control. 30 taper spindle, pneumatic drawbar. Paint's a little rough but no rust and very little wear. Got it for $2400 at auction with some tools, drunk me wants a project

>> No.1571853

>>1571716
I would start by figuring out what servo/stepper drivers you need for the axis motors, and if it has scales how to connect those too.

The drivers are the 6" x 2" x 4" boxes, usually one for each axis you see in the DIY cnc setups.

The drivers will step up the signals from the controller (desktop PC parallel port or USB smoothstepper board+PC USB port) to a level that can power the steppers/servos. You also need a separate power supply for them.

>> No.1571855

>>1571853
Oh and any encoders on the spindle, how to connect the spindle VFD (if it has one).

>> No.1572097
File: 2.01 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_5157.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1572097

Hi guys id there a chemical to remove the discoloration from oils/flux when i silver brazed this?

>> No.1572110

>>1572097
it doesn't just wipe off with a rough brush?

>> No.1572123

>>1572110
It may but I want to minimize the polishing I will have to do after

>> No.1572134

>>1572123
oh well without a robotic welding setup you're just going to have to make fixtures and find flux that help you not get it everywhere it shouldn't be when welding it

>> No.1572208

>>1572097
elbow grease, my dude. almost all brass cleaning chemicals are mild abrasives.

(for stainless, we put a carbon fibre brush into the tig torch, dip it in phosphoric acid, then gently brushie brushie with about 30A and it rips the blue/brown off the haz. NFI what it would do to a copper alloy, probably nothing good, i'm not a real science man)

>> No.1572340

>>1571716
Seems like a great deal if there are no mechanical problems. I paid the same for my mill but without tools and pneumatic draw bar.

>> No.1572763

>>1567638
Neat. Among amateur astronomers, Ed Byers is/was pretty famous for his equatorial mount gears. Is that a Byers-built mount or something someone built with gears from Byers?

Clean that up and use it.

>> No.1572806

Anyone know how to calculate RMR with a form tool on a lathe? I don't have a way to calculate the removal area because my shape is a freeform elipsish profile and I dont have a defining equation to calculate its area.

>> No.1573002

>>1572806
I would just approximate it unless it's important.

>> No.1573046

>that feel when walk in and get machines running without trouble in the morning

>> No.1573138
File: 2.64 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1573138

How do I cut a 1/16"x1/16" keyway on this 1/8" diameter through hole on this aluminum cam- without a press/broach, milling machine, or small enough chisels?

>> No.1573186

>>1573138
wire edm machine?

faceplate and a lathe?

clamp it to a lathe faceplate and stick a hand-ground HSS toolbit on the end of a rod and broach it by moving the carriage back and forth

>> No.1573240

>>1573138
hand filing, duh.