/diy/ - Do It Yourself

only need a hammer drill if you are going into brick/stucco/concrete/etc

>>1547412
Where are you? In EU, Makita DHP482 with any 3Ah+ battery. In the US, any of the 3 big brands are fine.
>hammer drill
Get a hammer drill when you need it. Probably wouldn't need to be cordless, either.

Just get a good cordless combi drill. They can do everything, just not quite as good as a more purpose dedicated drill, but if it’s only for general bits and pieces around the house you shouldn’t need anything too amazing.

Go for DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Hitachi, Milwaukee, Ryobi, AEG and anything else in that sort of caliber.

Prices and quality will vary to some degree so just go with whatever you’re comfortable with. For light/home use the differences in quality will be insignificant for you.

If I were you I would try and get one with at least two batteries and a good selection of drill and screwdriver bits to go along with it.

cordless drills last 2 years and batteries die, sometimes with sparse use they last only 6 months
plus when you need it its always discharged
get corded one, good quality but not pro
I use bosch personally, got it years ago and I'm quite happy with it
I got it in one of those aluminium carry cases with plenty of spare space for most common drill bit sets, blow moulded cases aren't too bad for keeping things tidy too, some people complain about them but I like any case I can get
Cheapo ones burn out, under hevier loads like hole saw in thick plywood
If you ever need hammer drill get cheap one with vertical motor in front of handle, they are all the same and last forever in home setting
Small drills with optional "hammer" are only good for soft render, you can't get through brick or concrete

>>1547426
>cordless drills last 2 years and batteries die, sometimes with sparse use they last only 6 months
>plus when you need it its always discharged
t. retard who bought cheap garbage

>>1547428
Ni-Cd batteries do indeed last about 2 years before failing.

Which makes the poster out of date, since LiPo is the current standard battery and they last 3 or 4 years.

Still, even at that rate, unless you use the drill daily you'll probably have to replace batteries before the drill, so there's no reason not to get cheap set like Ryobi. The big name brands are a lot better, it's true, but the average dingus who needs to screw a shelf together doesn't need that performance and won't notice it.

>>1547435

retard logic falling for ryobi marketing tactics

milwaukee or get the fuck

>>1547440
>wilfukyee
this is a makita blue board

>>1547463
>gook garbage
DeWalt or hang yourself weeb commie

>>1547412
Take a look at the 12V tool kits. I use my 12V Ridgids around the house more than my 18V tools. Plus you can get good drill + impact kits with two batteries on sale all the time for the same price as a basic 18V drill with one battery. The Ridgids are only $120-$130, and the similar Milwaukee kit is $150 but has been on sale a lot for ~$120, or will come with a free hackzall.

>>1547426
>cordless drills last 2 years and batteries die
You are an idiot, spend more $ for quality. I have had a Dewalt cordless hammer drill for 7 years at work and it's still in great condition. And it sits in the back of a hot van when not being used

>>1547495
My DeWalt 18V XRP stuff, the batteries are all dated and even the packs from 2007 will charge up enough to drive a bunch of screws or make a handful of cuts with the circular and sawzall. Newer Li-Ion will do wayyyyy better.

>>1547471
>why won't you use this overpriced shit made in china instead of this overpriced shit made in china

Why nobody has made a hydraulic drill that works with a rechargable cylinder of N2 or CO2.

>>1547517
Air powered tools exist...

Have you seen the size of the compressor you need to run an air drill or grinder? How long do you think a 12g co2 cartridge would work on that thing?

There are hydraulic tools as well. Pic related.

>>1547435
>LiPo is the current standard battery and they last 3 or 4 years.
Li-Ion is the current standard battery and they last really long. 3-4 years if you are a contractor going through a ton of charge cycles or you are storing them really poorly, but as a home user, you should be able to get well over 5 years easily.
>>1547515
Makita manufactures quite a lot of their shit outside of China, it's the least chink brand out of the prosumer ones.

>>1547523
>>1547515
DeWalt manufactures in the US. It’s foreign material but still provides US jobs. Milwaukee is chink garbage and Makita is weebshit

What are good table top drill presses? I want one that I can use to cut wood (obviously) and aluminum (I'll use different bits). I'm not looking for anything fancy, but I don't want something that's gonna stop working a couple months into using it.

>>1547471
>>1547515
funny, half of my teal lovelies are made in either uk or japan, perhaps you're getting mixed up with those tti heaps of shite.

>>1547536
dewalt is horseshit for babby tier builders and diy fags

>>1547544
I've had a cryobi for like 10 years. Don't use it heavily though.
Seems better than the $50 chink garbage.

>>1547562
lmao ok white collar basedboy

>>1547564
I'm looking at the WEN 4214 right now, do you know if it's any good?

>>1547426
I had been using a cordless drill with the same 2 batteries for the last 15 years it just bought longer works

I also have no saw or anything (only power tool I still have is a Dremel). Should I just get a combo like pic related and then have the basics?

>>1547544
I didnt realize you could just use a drill press to cut wood and aluminum

>>1547670
I'm just putting holes through it, nothing fancy.

>>1547412

RYOBIIIIIIIIII

>>1548025
Is junk.

>>1547610
honestly, that price looks like a steal
i wish there would be such deals in my area
The lamp looks shit, i prefer this style

>>1547544
a 50 year old used one with cast iron table, preferable variable speed
everything Chinese is shit and a good new one is not priced for home use

>>1547544

What about a drill stand? You can use your favorite corded tool with it.

>>1547440

Cordless tools suck for serious work, that's undeniable. They're unable to provide a lot of power for say, drilling into concrete or thick steel sheets. Even if the battery miraculously survives for 8 years, by that time the model is already phased out, you can't find new batteries that fit and have to rebuild the pack instead. Hooey.

>>1548201
I only have 1 corded drill, and it's not that great. I'd rather just have a drill press.

>>1547413
cordless hammer drills like the one in OP's pic are basically useless on concrete, but do fair well on brick

>>1548506
There are beefier cordless ones. They do take some persistence from time to time, but they will get it done. I agree that the smaller ones simply won't go at it hard enough sometimes.

>>1548201
>They're unable to provide a lot of power for say, drilling into concrete
Cordless SDS hammer drills are available from the major brands, and work just fine for installation work where they are preferable to corded versions for most uses due to not needing to drag cords around construction sites.

>or thick steel sheets
The cordless drill I have at home can drill 1/2" holes in steel plate without a pilot. Have you checked the specs on modern high-end drills? They can deliver more torque than impact drivers from a few years ago, and have multiple gear settings for different purposes.

And if you're using a cordless tool for "serious work", you're making money with it. Meaning that periodic replacement is a cost of business, typically one too minor to be a serious concern. You get the right tool for the job, whether corded or cordless, and a single job can more than cover its cost. And these days, there aren't very many tools that are better corded than cordless on a jobsite.

>>1548503
Get an old American made press on Craig's List, Facebook Marketplace, eBay (locally, to avoid high shipping costs), or through a local auction house. I've paid as little as $15 for a little 11 inch Delta drill press. I've gotten medium sized presses for $40-$60, and full sized ones (15 inch, 3/4th HP motors) for $100-$150. I once paid $10 for a Delta DP 600 because it didn't have a motor. I put a $60 motor in it and bam, industrial quality drill press for $70.

I have also purchased old drill/drillstand combos. Older metal bodies corded drills with half in chucks (don't bother with 1/4th or 3/8th inch motels) are actually vary decentr drill presses.

>>1547412
Your pic would be a good choice if it works for your budget. Makita has a reputation for longevity (though other contractor-grade tools would last a long time in home use), and a proper 18V drill with a 1/2" chuck should be plenty for most DIY uses. A "hammer drill" function on a drill like that isn't very powerful, but it can be an appropriate choice if you don't expect to be regularly drilling holes in concrete, but want the option. If you have even a few holes to make in concrete for a project, it may be worthwhile to buy or rent an SDS drill, which do a much nicer job.

>>1548523
I am only talking about the ones in the style of OP's. I know they have bigger and better cordless ones but its the way they perform the hammering function is why they suck at concrete.

>>1547435

Honestly user here. My B&D cordless lion is at nearly a decade and is fine. Light use much like op.

If you plan on getting more tools, it's worth it to plan out a battery platform that covers all your needs. That's what I'm doing now. The differences between the 18v platforms (including DeWalt, which is really 18v also) are minor. Makitas subcompact line are 18v as well, just smaller batteries, rather than a separate incompatible 12v line. Otherwise equivalent, so really it comes down to who makes the tools you will need. DeWalt has the broadest selection.

But if your goal is just a drill for occasional use, pretty much anything with a brand name will be adequate. I'd go lower tier in that case, though admittedly the big three all have comparatively cheap drill options.

>>1548201
>cordless tools suck for serious work
My friend, it’s not the 1980s anymore

>>1547517

My bit brace and eggbeater drill holes all day thanks to their hydrocarbon power source. It's been running for more than 40 yrs now. Yeah it's a little slower and needs more recharges than it used to, but I'm thinking at least 20 more years on it.

>>1547426

I've had my Bosch for 9 years now, bought an extra battery every 3 years. Use it maybe max once a week so not heavy use but definitely lasted longer than 2 years for me.

>>1548597
Alcohol your hydrocarbon fuel of choice?

>>1548775
not him, but bit and brace and booze make most of my holes.

I have a corded black and decker, its ancient but it works. Old work I used makita drills every day like the one in picture and those were amazing. Good battery life to them, think it was 2Ah?

>>1548534
>Have you checked the specs on modern high-end drills?
>>1548587
>My friend, it’s not the 1980s anymore

My frens, there is no way you're going to get 300-500W out of an 18V battery pack and have it last a decent amount of time. Maybe if you need to drill a few holes around the house it's ok, but if you're at a construction site all day you're not gonna fuck around with battery packs. No wonder the dewalt in anon's pic us using a brushless motor, you need to squeeze out all the effeciency you can get out of the thing.

>>1548785
>OK, they can provide a lot of power, but run time!
>OK, they use efficient motors, but that means they're bad!

>>1548785
I would expect this kind of retarded post from a tripfag, maybe you should look into it to help others block your idiotic rambling.
A good battery drill will last a days work without breaking a sweat, even if you need to swap at lunch it's only about a billion times more convenient than dragging an umbilical around all day.
Unless your drilling concrete i don't know about that.

>>1548785
Have you used a cordless drill made in the past 5 years?

Impact drivers are even better. Strap a new 6.0Ah battery (only 10 cells, much lighter than a 100’ extension cord) on a brushless 1/4” driver and you can drive screws for half the work week. Plus like this goy said >>1548816 you can toss that bitch on a good charger on your lunch break and have 80% charge by the time you finish your tall boy.

>>1548819
>in the past 5 years
Meant 15 years

>>1548820

You're actually right, the only cordless drill i own says the manufacture date is 2003. Looking into it, 6Ah batteries first came out in 2015, no wonder i missed it. I'm pleasantly surprised there has been some actual innovation in a home appliance within the past 20 years. Assuming a perfect system, at 6Ah you'd get 22.5 minutes of continuous runtime @ 300W and 13 minutes @ 500W. Not amazing but it should be enough for 95% of tasks.

>>1548816
>Unless your drilling concrete i don't know about that.

I do everything with my corded one - drilling concrete, mixing concrete, stripping paint with a wirebrush etc. Manufacture date is ~1994. Not once have i thought "gee this cable is too heavy" or felt the need to use a cordless tool.

>>1548829
The 9.0Ah batteries are only 15 cells, and Milwaukee has the 12.0, plus there’s DeWalt’s Flexvolt batteries. Mixing concrete and shit is one of the few things a corded drill is even worthwhile for because you’re using a lot of power in one place. But even drilling a bunch of holes into concrete, a 9.0Ah on a cordless SDS hammer will allow you to run around the building much easier. And with Li-Ion, you can go from a dead battery to 80%-90% in an hour, so it’s another world compared to the 90s tools where the circular saws are worthless for anything besides a few bits of trim.

>>1547610
Is that saw only a 6.5? That's a little small for me, but the rest looks fine.

>>1548829
>Not once have i thought "gee this cable is too heavy" or felt the need to use a cordless tool.
I thought cordless was a waste of time, first time I used one I changed my tune.
Job is finished in the time it would take to lay out the extension cord.

>>1548838
if you really want a beefy saw id recommend buying a different brushless kit like this then shop around for a circular saw to go with the set. Makita has 2 different 18vX2 circular saws now with left or right handed blades depending on your preferences.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-4-Piece-5-0Ah-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Combo-Kit-Hammer-Drill-Impact-Driver-Recipro-Saw-Flashlight-XT447T/302571835

>>1548025

I love ryobi and IMO is the only attractive colored power tool.

>>1550107
ive always been partial to Ridgid's orange and grey colors, its not as distinctive as the big 3 manufacturers but doesnt look out of place at all on a jobsite. their rubber overmolding can be a little overdone but the tools are damn comfortable and they seem to put a lot of effort into making their tools almost as good as Milwaukee but with overall quality cut to reduce costs.

Ridgid's latest octane tools have been getting really good reviews too, their brushless motors have been putting out just as much if not more power than the higher end brands and they seem more adventurous about selling unique or unusual tools like the Mega Max and Job Max platform.

also the limited edition black tool sets they sold a couple years ago were really popular, im surprised they didnt do that again this year.

>>1550116
I keep thinking about grabbing one of the Octane batteries to see what difference it makes on the sawzall. Their lineup is a little limited compared to the other brands but they have everything a general contractor or handy homeowner needs. I’m curious to see what else comes from the Octane line, I hope they release a high power 1/2” impact one day.

Also fun fact- the Ryobi heads work on the Jobmax platform.

>>1550130
the old 24v Ridgid batteries also used to work on the 24v Ryobi Outdoor Power Equipment line.

>>1548025
That's not a drill, Anon.

>>1550107
Ryobi have one hell of a product range, and I too like the colour.

>>1550116
ASS TO ASS

>>1547435
i work in television and we use NiCad batteries that are easily 5-10 years old without issue, and they are very likely on the higher end of that range. the problem with your batteries is that youre recharging them when theyve only been partially discharged. NiCad suffers from "battery memory" (LiOn doesnt), where when you discharge to, say, 50% and then recharge, your battery "thinks" that 50% is the maximum charge. also, dont overcharge your batteries.

>>1547536
>DeWalt manufactures in the US

Get the yellow dick out of your ass you dumbass retarded brainlet boomer. For every yellow transformer made in muttland there are 20 made in tacoland and chyna. As a matter of fact, the only reason they even keep a few items here is to appease to the retarded boomer mindset of "hurr durr, durr hurr made in the usa gotta pick this brand over the other".

>>1547412
If you get a Makita they have a hammer drill with a very nice Seiko-Yukiwa chuck and brushless motor. I'd go with that.

If you have other power tools already, go with what fits your current battery ecosystem.

>>1550551
I just bought a Makita DHP459, did I do good?
https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dhp459rmj-18v-lxt-combi-drill-inc-2x-4-0ah-batts-in-makpac-case

>>1551026
They gave you some beefy batteries too if you gotta start boring the shit out of a million holes.

My recent set came with a couple 4.0’s like that too and I keep wanting some 2.0s though because I rarely need the big packs aside from the saw. But I guess I have the 12V tools anyway if I don’t want the weight.

You gotta get yourself an impact driver next so you can know the pleasure of drilling a pilot hole and driving a screw without switching bits.

>>1550416
>with globally sourced materials
Kek. The American drill was assembled by the cousin of the guy who built that Mexican one.

>>1551032
I have a 12V drill already than can probably handle the pilot holes

it was €35 in Aldi and is surprisingly capable, nice and light too.

>>1551026
You could do worse.

Though the chuck appears to not be the higher end all metal Seiko-Yukiwa I was talking about. I have one on my drill, and shit is so cash. But I also have brushed motor so hard-stops spit out sparks lol.

>>1548829
>mixing concrete
For the amount of concrete you may as well use a spade imo, that will be shitcrete with entrapment. It is somewhat useful for some other non-newtonian viscous fluid mixing tho, I'll give you that.

>>1547413
Hammer action is very useful with any material, I've seen people insist on them for wood because it's easier and saves precious seconds.

>>1551284
That doesn't make the slightest bit of sense. Hammer action only works if the bit is designed for it. The tip of a masonry bit is totally different to the tip of a wood bit. Hammer with a wood bit, in wood, is just going to fuck up the hole.

>>1551275
the only Makita drills that use the Seiko-Yukiwa chucks are the large heavy duty hammer drill XPH07Z.

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XPH07Z

>>1547610
Damn. What batteries does it come with for that price?
Pic related cost me 400€ and my only regret is that I didn't get the set with and angle grinder for like 80€ more

>>1551487
looks like two 3.0ah batteries.

though for $400 you can get this brushless set with two 4.0ah and two 5.0ah batteries.

>>1551494
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-with-Bonus-2-Batteries-5-0Ah-XT269MBL1850B-2/307312287

>>1551494
>>1551495
That set would probably be like 600€ here.

>>1551284
I remember the first time I accidentally drilled a 2x4 with the hammer action, it was so much easier.
>>1551289
(and it was with a masonry bit, because I'd fucked up all my wooden bits getting jammed in knots)

I still don't understand what an impact driver is

>>1550116
I gave rigid a shot with a regular drill and impact drill. Best tools i have bought myself to date. Being an auto tech i use them every day, and have for the past year with no issues. Battery lasts long, can take off small tires if needed, and overall has not dissapointed.

Def ugly though

>>1551518
Watch this: https://youtu.be/aZUbbu6J19E?t=480

>>1551545
seems like it's a screwdriver that can beat up your dad

don't see how it would be useful for cabinetry

>>1551518
it's like a drill but it applies a "hammering" force along the circular axis that the screw is being turned in, so your bit doesnt pop out of the screw head when the going gets tough and round the screw like on a normal drill

>>1550116
I want an impact driver in the next few months and have been considering Ridgid for their warranty that even includes batteries that I keep seeing at Home Depot

>>1551550
It's really not all that useful for precision work, sure if you are driving 3" screws into studs to hang a cabinet but for finer work use a regular drill with an adjustable clutch so you dont mangle the wood.

>>1551550
Since it taps instead of just twisting like a regular drill, it can provide more power and it doesn’t transfer all of that torque right back into your wrist.

Just use one and drive some heavy screws with it and then with a regular old drill and you will see that it’s a much nicer user experience aside from being a little louder.

>>1551544
They’re all ugly if you’re like AvE and have a boner for Hilti. The tools turn black with enough use.

And I like them so far, especially at the price point, but I would def be running Milwaukee if I were a mechanic because of their tool choice. M12 ratchets, M12 stubby impact in 1/4” hex and 3/8” square, then M18 high torque 1/2” and a mid torque 1/2” as well. You would be runnin circles around dem snappy bois.

>>1551564
Do you have any other cordless tools? You should always stick with whatever brand you are invested in already unless you only have garbage and need to upgrade.

>>1551574
No nothing yet I started a trade apprenticeship months ago and will eventually need to get an impact

>>1551572
The way i see it, we have air tools. If i need something bigger I'll get my air impact gun. But the little 20$ rigid impact works fine for everything else.

>>1551564
I wouldn't put too much into the value of a warranty, getting them to actually do replacements can be a nightmare. I'd rather have something that lasts 10+ years without needing to swap it.

I have a good Ryobi for use around the house. I install HVAC, use Hilti on the job, and genuinely like the Ryobi battery system and tool quality.

>>1551564
>>1551585
The warranty everybody claims is a pain in the ass. But you do get a lifetime warranty on the batteries that come in kits (not the ones that come in their own pack unfortunately) so take it with a grain of salt. Milwaukee is 5yrs on tools and 3yrs on warranty, but hopefully you will never need to use either and will end up breaking the tool being a dumbass or just want to replace it after 10yrs of use.

But no complaints about the Ridgid stuff so far. Boomer I work with who has a little wood shop says he’s switching everything to Ridgid as well and he loves it. Wait for those sales, I feel like I got a whole lot for $200 with the big batteries and brushless tools. Octane sawzall runs like a raped ape and I want to snag some Octane batteries so bad.

Don’t overlook the 12V tools either. And Milwaukee is still probably better with their tool lineup, but Ridgid is nearly as good for much less money but a significantly more basic lineup.

>>1551516
>(and it was with a masonry bit, because I'd fucked up all my wooden bits by leaving it in hammer mode)
ftfy

>>1551627
no, this was before hammer mode. the bits were getting stuck in the wood and I had to yank/wiggle them out with a pliers. possibly because it was a cheap drill with a weak chuck fastening mechanism.

I bought both a right angle drill and normal drill because I couldn't make a decision.

>>1551487
>The product you are trying to view is not currently available.
you had my hopes up

>>1551616
>Wait for those sales
wheres the best place to find them? Just like home depot or ace?

speaking of impacts, here's another question: is there any real difference between a 1/4 inch impact and a half inch impact for example, or is it literally just the size of the hex and that's it

>>1552314
Same kind of mechanism, different method of attaching drivers, different size and power. "Impact drivers" use a 1/4" hex socket on the tool that accommodates 1/4" hex-shanked driver bits. They're suitable for driving most screws and smaller nuts. "Impact wrenches" have a square drive on the tool to use standard sockets. They're mostly intended for use with bolted connections of the kind found on cars, with larger versions suitable for bigger nuts on larger vehicles and buildings. Screws may not provide enough resistance to trigger the impact mechanism, but they can drive them very fast if you rig together a suitable driver assembly. An impact driver may deliver 100-200 foot-pounds of torque at full speed. A 1/2" impact wrench may deliver a thousand or so, and can easily break most fasteners intended for use with screwdrivers or impact drivers.

>>1552327
oh i see now that those are impact wrenches not drivers i didn't read closely enough thanks

>>1552287
Ridgid and Ryobi are pretty much only at Home Depot. Wait for a Father’s Day sale or some shit. They have power tool deals multiple times of year so you can get $400 worth of stuff for $200 if you’re willing to wait a month.

>>1550116

Black power tools are sick but looks too much like guns IMO.

>>1551616

I do like RIDGIDs colors as well.

>>1552510
>>1552515
Bright tools are easier to spot when Jamal is leaving the jobsite at night. But seriously it’s worth having something that stands out at night, it’s amazing how well a greasy wrench can blend in with the rest of an engine bay when you slam the hood.

>>1547610

I bought a similar bag on sale a year back with 4v batteries, but with a multitool instead of the flashlight. One of my best purchases ever

>>1547412
look at yard sales and online markets ,you can easely find good tools barely used at nearly any time for lower cost.
Check up on your local area for tool library's/diy rental or secondhand shops.

I'm going to have to recommend the Makita sub-compact set. 18v power in a small form factor. I've used my set in an industrial maintenance role and the perform really well.

Not sure where you are located but I believe these are sub $300 for the kit at Home Depot.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-CX300RB-Lithium-Ion-Sub-Compact-Brushless/dp/B0753TGVL3

>>1555034
These are my household work tools and I have the big boy ones for work. Honestly could get by with the subcompacts in like 90% of my applications

>>1547610
I got this in 2008. Still goes