/diy/ - Do It Yourself

should I add retractable landing gear to my 500 quad for no reason at all apart from the wow factor?

>>1549593
Yes. Preferably that tricycle stuff planes have, because it's unfair that nobody makes quads with wheels.

>>1549593
>should I add retractable landing gear to my 500 quad for no reason at all apart from the wow factor?

as in "wow that's stupid". why add weight and electronics and mechanics for something that just makes the quad worse.

>>1549603
The main point of retracts on a 'copter are to allow a bottom mounted camera to rotate freely without getting the landing gear in shot. They also allow a big 'copter to collapse more for transport.

Eurofag here, i want to get a Taranis Q X7S to fly wings mostly.

>Taranis Q X7S–EU version only has D16-EU and LR12 mode.
What kind of receiver do i need? I'm looking for something simple and light.

>>1549605
That landing gear has to absorb quite a bit of force.
Could it make more sense to make the bottom mounted camera retractable instead of the landing gear?

>>1549621
If the landing gear on a big camera platform has to absorb 'quite a bit of force' you are flying it wrong.

>>1549618
D16 is the 'current' protocol, which is used by all of the modern X series receivers.

For super basic 3 or 4 channel wings with no flight controller or stabilization, you can use a X4R (not the same as a X4R-SB, which only has 3 servo channels).

For more advanced wings with a flight controller, you can use any X series receiver with SBUS output.

The only reason you would want the older D8 mode (which is no longer legal in the EU, but which can be re-enabled very easily via software) is if you want to bind to a cheap Chinabrand micro quad that often come with cheap D8 receivers, or if somebody gives you an obsolete model that has an old D series receiver in it.

>>1549637
Thanks.

>try to run the motor on full throttle with prop when it's sitting on desk
>Keep it on full for more than 2 seconds
>Motor breaks itself off the mount
Did it mean that the prop was unbalanced?

>>1549747
How weak was the mount?

>>1550010
Not too weak but it was one of those shitty plastic mounts. The break looks like it was caused by a lateral force instead of the motor just pulling itself off because of the thrust.

>>1549637
No doubt, but hard landings happen. I have a 550 that I keep grounded because it is too much beast for me.

I haven't fucked with the hobby in a few years, but I'm dipping my toes back in and considering rehabbing my 550 and putting a decent FC and a GPS on it. I'll probably just stick to 250s for a while though.

>>1549747
Did it shake really hard? If yes, then prop is unbalanced and that fatigued and broke mount, which means the mount sucks. If it didn't, then your mount plain sucks or the torque from the motor split it, i.e, the mount sucks.

>>1549558
>carbon fibre
DESU unless your using some high quality fiber your not saving much weight over anything else.

>>1549558
Legalities aside, anyone think it would be super difficult to do a balloon based drone to go to outer-atmosphere? As in 128,000 feet. Freezing or batteries exploding may be an issue.

>>1550796
Price isnt the point, carbon fiber is lighter but stronger than steel.
>>1550827
What would the drone part of it be? You can already just buy a weather balloon and do that.

>>1550796
I don't own a CNC nor a laser cutter, so whatever I do I'm paying to have it made, so I may as well have it made in carbon fibre. It's not like I'll save much having it cut in plywood instead.

>>1550827
You could stick the electronics together with a heater cartridge inside a thermos if you want to, that would insulate it pretty well. Seal the hole the wires connect through properly and it should even let you keep the electronics at atmospheric pressure for a considerable time. A thermos like these https://www.julesb.com/womenswear-c2/womens-accessories-c25/thermos-flasks-c754 with a screw cap would be best, they have rubber seals and no buttons or spouts or such to leak, Chinese knockoffs are pretty cheap and readily available. For the heater you could just go for a thermistor and a heater cartridge for a 3D printer if you want to keep it simple, you only really need to stay within the arduino tolerance which is something like -40 to +85 C, which is a very wide band and a small volume of air in the thermos (which by virtue of being a thermos will itself leak very little heat to begin with).

>>1550827
like this? David made it to 108,000ft.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpBnurznFio&t=20s

>>1550974
How the fuck did he have control, 20 miles up and through clouds? Am I wrong in assuming a single stray gust could just render this entire idea pointless?

>>1550999
It's a weather balloon. You read weather and jet stream charts and can make a pretty good prediction of how it will ascend, but ultimately yeah, you have no actual control once you release it.

>>1550974
Autism space program.

>>1550999
he said he was using OpenLRS with a directional antenna, something like DragonLink would be another option. These are much longer range than a typical 2.4ghz R/C transmitter.

http://www.flytron.com/16-openlrs

Are there kits or Lego instructions or a popular shell of a car to start with if I wanted to build something with Ardurover?

>>1551116
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meccano

>>1551315
Yes I'm aware if the existence of erector sets, do you have any useful information?

>>1549558
why are fucking fatsharks so fucking expensive?
also: are the HDOs worth the $100 higher price vs the HD3?

>>1549618
when you flash the firmware just uncheck "eu" and you get D8, too.

>>1551565
Fatshark style goggles use a pair of microdisplays, which are a rather special purpose technology that doesn't have much in the way of mainstream demand, so as demand/supply goes they are very expensive. The bigger 'box style' goggles use a single larger display (5" to 7" usually) which are comparatively dirt cheap because of the huge demand for them from the smartphone/tablet market.

>>1551559
sure, they are designed to be worked by children - good luck

>>1550852
>What would the drone part of it be
I suppose I can fly around at 180,000 feet once the balloon got me there or fly down., realistically there would not be much reference at that altitude.

Finally started getting responses back from carbon fibre CNC places & found some 15x15 hardwood dowel so things are slowly moving along~ These cheapo ESCs just happen to be the perfect width to strap onto the arms too.

Hello guys, I'm really desperate and would appreciate any help. I'm struggling to connect Rx to tx. I have no idea how this works, I would appreciate any links /help . This is my first build. Receiver is fs ai10b and transceiver is Openpilot revolution.

>>1552680
The OpenPilot Revolution is the flight controller (FC) not a transceiver. Are you trying to bind the Rx to the Tx or get a signal from the Rx to the FC? Here is a video showing how to bind the Rx to Tx (different model, should be same procedure since they're both Fly Sky). And a link to how to setup the FC. Google is your friend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-Z0rTVEkHI

https://openpilotwiki.readthedocs.io/en/latest/user_manual/revo/revo.html

>>1552686
My bad , I'm trying to bind the flight controller to Receiver. I am doing it through ppw. Thanks I will take a look.

>>1552694
OK, let's get the obvious questions out of the way. Is the Rx bound to the Tx? Is the Rx getting power from the FC? What firmware are you using?

>>1552699
Yes , I bound the tx with Rx. But I'm unable to connect Rx to Openpilot,because I don't know where do all the wires belong.

>>1552729
Have you read the documentation for your board, which includes pinouts of all the connectors?

https://openpilotwiki.readthedocs.io/en/latest/user_manual/revo/revo.html

>>1552729
you appear to have it connected correctly, based on the setup guide. Is there a green light on the receiver? Do you have your transmitter set for ppm?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcAqYI3WILk

>>1552141
Nice furniture on your tricopter

Just bought a Mobula 7 2S tiny whoop as my first FPV quad. Figured it's powerful enough to do basic freestyle flights outside and I can throttle the power down for indoors.
Did I fuck up?

>>1552746
No, I'm doing it with ppw, and I have my transmitter set on ppw.

>>1552802
That's why I need to connect other wires

>>1552802
do you mean pwm? Read the article from >>1552743

>>1552844
Thanks man ,that's what I needed. I also had my transmitter set on ppm and not ppw. I really appreciate your help

>>1552763
Technically it's a hexacopter ;)

how can I remove the wires that my motor came with and replace them with longer ones instead of soldering an additional wire to the existing ones?

>>1552853
Open the motor and solder the new wire to wherever the old wire was soldered.
Much more convenient to just solder the new wire to the end of the old one though. Is there any particular reason you don't want to?

>>1552866
it wouldn't look very nice and would add another thing that can fail?

but of course, that's kind of a stretch.

>>1552871
Okay, fair enough. Solder joints are strong enough that you only need to worry about them breaking in some very niche situations (they're used even in satellites, which are high stress and low tolerance environments and very expensive besides, it should give you some idea about how rare it is to care). I do agree that they look ugly though, if it's an exposed wire I can understand you thinking heat shrink in the middle of two visibly different wires would look bad. What you could do is cut the wire fairly close to where it comes out of the motor, and then butt the heat shrink right up against the motor. That way it can look pretty good, particularly if you use the same colour as the motor, or black.

>>1552878
I will prolly buy some PET-X or nylon sleeves and put those over it to cover the mess, since I found out that one of my local computer parts store sells those.

If I had to waited for them to arrive from China I will have killed myself before they arrived.

Shit that I ordered from HK on like 15th of December from the fucking EU warehouse out of all places, still hasn't arrived.

I fucking hate this shithole and everyone in it.

>>1552881
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/PET-weaving-expandable-mesh-sleeve-for_516282974.html This stuff? Solid plan, my computer power supply has all its cables wrapped in it and it looks pretty good. It would absolutely cover up solder joints.

yes, it actually is, glad I came up with it.

I only hope that my fucking battery arrives in one piece, if ever, in order to be able to actually fly the fucking thing.

god I fucking hate those lazy chimps working at my fucking useless post office.

>>1552853
Don't do what >>1552866 says. Trying to replace the stock wires at the point they are factory soldered to the stator wires is extremely difficult.

Just solder & heatshrink longer wires to the stock ones, like people have been doing for decades.

what's the capacitor that came with my PDB used for?

>>1552925
the black thing on the wires that I presume go to the battery is silicone?

>>1552926
smoothing out voltage spikes

>>1552930
it looks like liquid electrical tape.

>>1552936
should I use it? and if so, where do I connect it?

>>1552926
>>1552938
It's a capacitor, to smooth/filter voltage spikes (often caused by active braking in ESCs). It used to be common for ESCs to come with a big electrolytic capacitor on them for just this purpose, but then people complained ESCs were too big so manufacturers started removing them, but of course then people started complaining that their quads were twitchy because of voltage spikes coming from their ESCs... so now people have started adding big electrolytic capacitors to their ESCs or PDB again. Go figure...

Many times a build won't need extra filtering, but if you find you have noise in your FPV feed or that the quad flies very twitchy, the solution many times can simply be to add a ~1000uF capacitor to the battery input pads on the PDB/4in1, or if you have individual ESCs you can also/instead add ~330uF capacitors to each one.

>>1552930
It's PlastiDip.

I live in an area that has a shit load of old mines, a lot of which are flooded. I've been wanting to build a small ROV with a decent light and camera to send up some of the flooded adits.

Does anyone have any books / websites / general tips to get me started?

Is there any way I can do a submersible ROV without an umbilical or an antenna protruding from the surface? I want to build something that can dive and perform simple commands from a few hundred yards away.

>>1553285
>>1553104
Ever wondered why real subs have to use a antenna attached to a buoy if they don't want to use their onboard slow ass super low frequency antennas when submerged to, say, periscope depth (that also require huge ass transmitter antennas to even be able to send a signal powerful enough to penetrate a few dozen meters of seawater)?

Well, it's because not much, if any of the "higher frequency" (say something like the frequency satellite communications use) radio waves can penetrate the ion rich seawater.

So you'd want to use a RX/TX combo with as low as frequency as they go, if you want to build a semi-viable solution, and even then, you prolly wouldn't be able to submerge more than a few dozen centimeters before the signal is dropped would be my guess, since the water will definitely have ions dissolved into it that will further decrease signal penetration.

Even in a pool without chlorine you'd prolly get a meter or so with a normal, consumer grade low frequency rc RX/TX combo.

2.4GHz is useless as far as using stuff underwater goes, even if your craft is submerged at a depth of only a handful of centimeters.

So you're basically limited to a buoy if you want to actually go deep or a super low frequency (for rc standards anyway) RX/TX.

TL;DR
Shouldn't have skipped physics class.

>>1553309
Not him, just curious, what would your guess be for the underwater range of a 433mhz system? At that didnt old RC transmitters use some sort of crystal set at like 72mhz? How well would that work?

>>1553310
I honestly haven't build or attempted to build anything that's supposed to submerge underwater, I just made a educated guess based on what I know, but still, even if you used 72MHz, I doubt you'd go very far, it'd prolly be like a meter or something at best. In reality, it would prolly be even lower than that.

Subs use something like 20-30KHz when submerged to prolly periscope depth and don't want to use a buoy to maintain their stealth, and they only get like 20-30 meters of signal penetration, but that's of course, a couple of hundred kilometers away from the place where the transmitter is located, but we still have to bear in mind that that transmitter is fucking huge and really fucking powerful.

Also, the bandwidth with such a frequency, is horrendous. We're talking like a couple of hundred words/sec.

>>1553311
Interesting.

Never even occurred to me that Ardusub stuff would have to use an umbilical. Think I'll stick with rover for my current challenge.

>>1553285
Commercial acoustic modems can achieve 10s of kbps in that range, but they use 10s of Watts to do it.

>>1553309
>>1553310
>>1553311
>>1553313
>>1553322

My bad, I should have said it would need to be tethered anyway, like most ROVs are.

I've also found this website if anyone else is interested homebuiltrovs.com

>>1553313
You could use sound. Sound travels very quickly and well through water, it's why sonar is a thing in the first place. It would probably have to be more of an analog system than a digital, but you should be able to control your sub with it.

Good luck figuring out how to get video back over sound though, there's a reason almost all DIY RC submarines are tethered.

>use an old towerpro mg995 to operate a light pan-tilt system
>one day it jams
>buy a replacement on ebay
>arrives two and a half weeks later
>identical in every single way except it apparently has a 27 tooth cog instead of a 25 tooth
God fucking damn it China.

>>1553520
Did it not come with servo arms?

>>1552782
It'll be fun, but you'll grow out of it very quickly.

>>1554128
Oh, it did, but my rig uses an extra long aluminium servo arm, it's presumably necessary to get any degree of accuracy out of these shitty servos.

Alright bros, I need some serious help.
I think my Omnibus F4 Pro board shorted and I have no idea how to figure out where. I have done the following troubleshooting:

>Pre-troubleshooting
a) Tried battery on FPV Monitor: works
b) Tried different battery on omnibus: doesn't work

>Pic related
1) When I plug the battery into the wiring harness, the vtx powers on, which shows the wiring harness soldering/config is good and power is at least making it to the board.
2) When I plug in the ESC BEC to the rx, the rx powers on. Still no life from Omnibus
3) When I plug the omnibus into my computer via usb, it all works, registers, and I can see in the iNav configurator that GPS, accelerometer, etc, is working.

>Additional helpful info
1) if I plug the BEC into the omnibus servo control area, any connected servos start jittering = BEC power is distributed well
2) I have used this board in the past with no problems at all
3) I recently unsoldered and resoldered the video transmitting area from an elbow to straight pins. I was able to tinker with the board no problem though after that.
4) The board seemed to die right when I plugged the BEC into the 12 pin servo area (I'm pretty sure it was lined up correctly).
5) I typically plug my BEC into the 12 pin servo area to supply power to the servos.

almost done

>>1554500
Update: I've tried testing continuity from power sources to these 2 chips and the one on the back to see which one controls voltage from the usb and battery, but didn't get any useful feedback from my multimeter.

>>1554735
And some Indians on the web say it's likely the D1 schottky diode (a few chips under the topb right red circle in pic above). How do I know which replacement to get? There seem to be a few mumbo-jumbo numbers on each different listing. The chip on the board says S4.

Props arrived, just waiting for the carbon now - which is going to take a while :( At least I can solder up all the motors/ESCs while I'm waiting.

>>1554587
Looks tidy!

>>1554587
>>1554789
Fuck I wanna build a flamewheel or an S500 or something similar, maybe an X Class.

Has anyone here, by any chance, ever tried to add a "jump" functionality to a normal RC car?
That is, some sort of piston (or lever or something) to rapidly push the vehicle away from the ground?

>>1555031
I tried putting hydropneumatic suspension on a model S-tank once, if that counts. Not enough to actually jump, but it could tilt back and forth like the real thing.

>>1555038
Well, at this point I'm just trying to evaluate what kind of electricity-powered mechanism can actually provide enough burst impulse to make an average 1:16 - 1:10 car jump at least a few feet into the air.

>>1555041
Does it need to be repeatable? Easiest option would be to use a servo and a big spring. Lock the spring in place with the servo somehow, so that when the servo rotates it releases the spring and causes the jump.

>>1555046
Yea, it does need to be repeatable. Basically, the idea is that it should be "just another button" taking up a channel or two to operate.

>>1555048
You know how hovercrafts have those skirts hanging down? If you put a can of pressurised gas and a remotely operated very quick valve releasing a blast of air inside a skirt close to the ground you might be able to get a few tall jumps.

There's also these things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvqvhAMJKfA No idea how they work, but if your 1:16 car is all plastic it might be light enough for the same mechanism to work.

>>1555049
Looks a bit like the mechanism in an airsoft gun. Basically a little brushed DC motor with a gearbox, which pushes back a spring-loaded cylinder, and then instantaneously snaps back when it's fully pushed back. Only instead of creating a pressure blast to launch a little BB, you instead simply release the spring directly into the ground and the "car" leaps a little bit. Should work just fine for a car, you just need to place it directly under the centre of mass so you don't end up doing backflips or something.

>>1555052
Any ideas where you can buy or salvage such motor-driven spring-loaded cylinder?

>>1555218
No idea. The only area I've seen something like that is in airsoft, and those springs+motors+gearboxes are nowhere near large enough to affect a 1:16 RC car. You'd have to make one yourself, go to walmart and buy a cheap airsoft gun and tear it apart, it can't be too difficult to make something similar in a CAD program, then you could use something like 3dhubs to have it 3D printed, then slap the metal parts in motor, gears and spring in.

Until I get the carbon parts at least I can play with the LEDs...

>>1555438
Are the carbon parts everything that's 3D printed on it now, or are you gonna use carbon tubes for the arms as well?

>>1555458
Carbon parts are just going to be the circular & rectangular plates in the centre, which are currently prototyped in grey PLA. The PET-G landing gear brackets are probably going to stay as PET-G because they don't really need much strength (the other option I was considering was just zip-tying them on).

I would _like_ to replace the hardwood dowel with carbon rods, however 99% of carbon tubes/rods are pulltruded rather than woven, so honestly aren't worth the money/effort over hardwood. David Windestal (RC Explorer/the Swedish guy from old Flite Test videos) spent ages finding a factory that would do him actual woven square rods (which I have on my RC Explorer tricopter) & those are only 10mm while I want 15mm for this build.

>>1555465
What's the real difference between extruded and woven CF? Was planning on DIYing an X Class frame sometime, found some 23x25mm square tubes on goodluckbuy.

>>1555537
With pulltruded carbon all of the fibres are in the same alignment, so the rods are very prone to splitting lengthways, especially at points where you've drilled mounting holes/bolts through.

With woven carbon the fibres are actually woven together at 90 degrees (& then each layer can be rotated compared to the previous) which gives it strength in both directions.

Would switching from SimonK ESCs to BLHELI_S ESCs make any difference on a 500mm quad?

>>1555736
Potentially, yes. It won't make as much difference as on something like a 5" race quad running an 8k loop, but the newer/faster protocol supported by blheli_s ESCs may still improve stability noticeably (if your flight controller can use these newer/faster protocols). Just be aware that blheli_s always has damped light (regenerative breaking) enabled, which can cause self-tightening prop nuts (which are more common on larger quads) to come loose. If you're buying new ESCs though, you may as well go with blheli_32, as there isn't really a price difference anymore.

>>1555438
I need some lighting related advice, I'd appreciate if you or anyone could help me. Do you use something like a

I want to put a RGB LED strip under each arm of my quad, and have them remotely operated.

They can either be 12V or be able to work with a 4S LiPo.

I've found a couple of 5 or 6 LEDs on a PCB strip by Matek with switches that allow you to pick one out of seven colours, but they all use 16V and I don't have space for a buck converter.

Finally, they have to be wired in parallel, right?

>>1555860
just get something like this. You want to search for "addressable LEDs", then you can set patterns in the flight controller and control them with a switch on your Tx.

https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/rmrc-fire-leds-ws2812-5050-rgb-addressable

I'm working on a river/canal survey system, the main point of which is to test visual odometry.
My uni has the budget for a good camera and an echosounder but not a high end GPS. I'm kinda worried about determining absolute altitude. My plan is to use a cheap barometric sensor (or two of them with one left on a point of known altitude). I'd like some advice on how to build a housing. I figure if it's totally waterproof, it won't be able to detect the pressure. But it must be able to withstand spray and possibly survive accidental immersion. Will wind affect it and if so how can I minimise any drafts in the housing?

>>1556013
Make a series of shells that fit inside each other to make it rain proof

>accidental immersion

Just don't do it

>>1555950
Do flight controllers support this? I have like 5 ws2812 breakout boards

>>1553309
>So you'd want to use a RX/TX combo with as low as frequency as they go
That would be RS485

>>1556013
You can get sealed barometric sensors they have a rubbery membrane that is flexible but prevents ingress. Needs calibration though if you modify one with a balloon or something. GPS does not work underwater. Like half an inch underwater it will be dead.

If you chose to survey canals exclusively then the altitude wouldn't really be much of an issue....

>>1556032
yes, it's designed to be hooked up to a flight controller, most newer ones have dedicated LED pins. I think it's just another UART.

>>1556032

>>1556032
Thanks for the suggestion. Have you tried this before? It's not the simplest of designs. I figured a hole in a box covered by a tube with small holes at each end of the tube would be easier to make.

>>accidental immersion
>Just don't do it

This thing might be used by first year students, it has to be idiot-proof.

>>1556047
Could do your tube idea on the air inlets, if you make the holes at the end small enough the water just wont enter.

>>1556047
Thanks, I'll look into buying one! I don't want the hasle of R&Ding one with a balloon.

Even with canals you need to find out the water level to make a proper map since it can go up and down (you could measure it onshore and assume it's stable). Here we have a tidal river so I definitely need altitude.

>>1556013
I thought a barometer only told you relative altitude, not absolute altitude? And surely for a surface application with GPS you know absolute altitude from map data?

>>1556245
If you know the pressure at a certain altitude at that time (in the same weather system), then you can deduce absolute altitude.

You use the hypsometric equation https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypsometric_equation

You can get pressure at sea level and at a range of altitudes (eg 5000m) from weather prediction organisations who do things like release weather balloons. You can also leave one barometer at a point you have surveyed with a precise GPS (so you know the height) and use this as the reference.

I don't know what maps you use. You'd have to find a known measurement point near the water, then use a tape measure or trigonometry to measure the vertical height to the water and do this everytime you do a survey.

>>1556268
>I don't know what maps you use. You'd have to find a known measurement point near the water, then use a tape measure or trigonometry to measure the vertical height to the water and do this everytime you do a survey.

We use freely available map data at work to generate 'accurate' landscapes for 3D reconstructions of archaeological/heritage sites in Unreal. I couldn't tell you how accurate they are as it's my colleague's area of expertise, but it's certainly diagnostic enough for our uses & might be for yours too? It would certainly be a helluva lot less effort, as all you'd have to do is reference your GPS logs against the map data.

>>1555465
>>1554789
is there any science behind these contra rotating propellers? I have yet to see any proof they're more efficient.
>inb4 real planes use them
Yes but attached to the same engine and the distance between propellers is carefully calculated. dronefags just slap 2 motors on doubling the weight and no regard is given to optimising the gap.

>>1556314
it's not always about efficiency, sometimes it's about getting more power in a smaller form factor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFJyE3Uns3o

>>1556314
There's no argument that it's less efficient for a setup like the one I'm building, however a Y6 spinning 10" props can be built on a 300mm frame, whilst a flat hexacopter spinning the same 10" props would have to be at least 510mm.

>>1556340
This is a god awful test, fan area is different in all three tests.
>>1556494
The question is does the Y6 fly longer than a simple tricopter with the same props?

>>1556546
>The question is does the Y6 fly longer than a simple tricopter with the same props?

A simple tricopter with the same props would have probably 40-45% less thrust, so it's not really a useful comparison. You build a Y6 if you want the lift capacity of a hex but in the footprint of a tri. Or in my case, because you think Y-shaped frames look neat but you already have a tricopter.

>>1556546
>does something that is admittedly less efficient somehow fly longer than something that is more efficient?

I'm trying to update a firmware on a naze32 controller I haven't used for a few years.
The controller is working ok as-is: the drone can fly with the current (old) firmware and all that.
But I can't make my PC talk to it via usb: cleanflight is giving me "no response from bootloader".
PC sees the correct port when I connect the controller, just refuses to talk. Any ideas?

>>1557334
Forgot to include the controller pic, if it's of any relevance.

>>1557334
What version of the Cleanflight configurator are you using? Because a modern version of the configurator won't be able to talk to the ancient version of the firmware on your board (Cleanflight had a big overhaul/rebase to the Betaflight codebase a while back, which broke backward compatibility like this).

>>1557339
Whatever the current version is, 2.4.0, I think.
The thing is, I can't even flash new firmware. It just refused to talk to bootloader.

>>1557348
That's what I'm saying, the current version of the configurator may not be able to write over what is on the board. You may need to use an older version of the configurator.

>>1557353
But isn't bootloader hardcoded into the controller..?
I was under the impression it should be possible to bypass old firmware and just flash everything clean…

>>1557367
Well what's the error that you get? Does the board go into DFU mode okay?

>>1556304
>It would certainly be a helluva lot less effort, as all you'd have to do is reference your GPS logs against the map data.
For sure! In practical terms though, lakes go up and down with rain. So you need to reference it to a flat bit near the banks.

>>1554744
>>1554735
>>1554500
Has no one fixed a flight controller before?
I found one of the diodes failed open, so I'm replacing that when it gets in. I'm hoping it didn't allow anything else to short, as I can't trace a current from either power source past the first resistors.

>>1558636
>no one has fixed a flight controller before?
I think 99% of people would rather replace it than go through the trouble you are, youve been at it for a week, on a $20 FC, and still likely wont be able to fix it.

>>1559135
Man, that's what I was afraid of. I just wish I knew what I did wrong, because it was working, then it wasn't.

>>1559432
I mean this is DIY, try to fix it if you want to. Its just if you ask me you're obsessing over the cheapest version of an F4 you can get. It could be a manufacturing defect, you could have accidentally shorted it, maybe a stray blob of solder bridged something and destroyed the battery connection. It could have just shit out for absolutely no reason whatsoever, most of us have had it happen. ESCs will crap out sometimes between flights for seemingly no reason.

>>1559445
This. In this hobby, cheap (sometimes expensive) electronics will randomly fail. It happens. I've started buying an extra motor and esc when I build a quad because of this.

>>1559492
I keep spares of everything, ESCs no matter how expensive cant take an impact, Ive had $20 ESCs crap out after a prop bent and smacked the side of the PCB. Cameras are usually easy since the lens is almost always what breaks. I also have some 15 or so F3s that I got for I think $2 each just incase a FC goes out on me and I still want to fly that quad.

Finally fixed up & flew my 680 after I flew it straight into the ground on its first flight 8 months ago because I forgot Arducopter has the pitch axis inverted compared to literally everything else. Flew great this time with it the right way round, go figure.

>>1561896
If it makes you feel better that event saved me the same trouble.

>bought 5 XT-90 connectors from HK for 3$ literary a month ago from the EU warehouse, was supposed to be delivered in 7-14 days
>shit still hasn't arrived because the post service in this 3rd world shithole roleplaying as a developed country is manned by a bunch of subhumans
>meanwhile, if I wanted to buy a single XT-90 connector I'd have to pay 4 fucking euros plus 5 euros shipping and god knows if they sell the genuine stuff or just say they sell the genuine connector and they then send you some shitty copy
>everything is all set up and ready to fly only thing is I can't connect the damn thing to its battery

god, I fucking hate this place.

>>1562738
It does actually, thanks :3

>>1549558
>how's that aluminum drone coming along anon

Can I just hook three of these 12 inch fans up to some electric fan motors and put an RV deep cell battery on the platform to power it?

>>1563193
I'm sure they're paddling them over from China on a raft to avoid paying the tariffs.

>>1563215
>Can I just hook three of these 12 inch fans up to some electric fan motors and put an RV deep cell battery on the platform to power it?

....to do what? Build a drone?

>>1563264
yes hopefully

>>1563387
No.

>>1563407
well okay, how do I build a powerful drone then?

I want to use my own propeller designs which are fairly large diameter. It can be powered by a 2-stroke engine if necessary.

>>1563493
>how do I build a powerful drone then?

You buy/build a suitable frame, buy suitable motors & speed controllers, buy a flight controller & radio, then assemble it all.

>I want to use my own propeller designs

Any particular reason why? Unless this is something you've been doing for years as your profession, your designs aren't going to come close to what is already on the market.

>>1563493
Combustion engines aren't actually very good for quads. Quads rely on being able to rapidly and efficiently change RPM, and combustion engines are slow to rev up and need brakes to rev down reasonably quickly. What you could do is belt-feed each rotor and using the stuff helis use to adjust the pitch of the propellers as you go.

>>1563498
>Any particular reason why? Unless this is something you've been doing for years as your profession, your designs aren't going to come close to what is already on the market.

It's more of a manufacturing challenge to me, the design I don't care much about, but I want to be able to manufacture a lot of the expensive components, like aluminum/titanium lift fans and the frame.

I'm playing around with this 11" fan model, but beware the v3 has more turbulence than the original or v2 in this guy's file, according to the comments.

https://grabcad.com/library/twice-lift-improved-propeller-1

>>1563500
In what universe does anyone use anything but collective pitch with gas engines, that's supposed to be a given.

>>1563504
I don't think I've ever seen aluminium/titanium props used on a multirotor. It's all plastic/glass fibre/carbon fibre. Probably for a reason. Oldschool RC helis used metal props, but nothing in the multirotor world. Can you machine your designs in other materials?

>>1563513
Yes I sure can, but I would much rather add more power to it and deal with spinning metal blades of death than flimsy plastic or carbon fiber stuff.

>>1563531
I think you're possibly missing the point or at least misinterpreting how multirotors work. As >>1563500 points out, a multirotor relies upon the ability to rapidly & accurately change the speed of the rotors, which means that a plastic/polycarbonate/glass fibre/carbon fibre prop that weighs less (& thus has less momentum) than a metal prop will always perform better.

'Flimsy' isn't really a concern, considering the polycarbonate that we now use for race quad props can be flown into a brick wall & survive, while the carbon fibre props we use for bigger things is more rigid than any metal prop will ever be.

In other words, I'm not sure there is _any_ benefit to using metal for multirotor props - they won't perform better, they won't be more durable, the won't cost less, etc,

>>1563538
Well I'm not taking no for an answer, I'll just have to learn the hard and expensive way.

Finally, finally starting production on the product I've been working on and might actually be able to afford it.

>>1563561
Your product is inferior and you should feel bad.

>>1563561
>Well I'm not taking no for an answer, I'll just have to learn the hard and expensive way.

Sometimes that is a noble attitude and leads to new discoveries.

This is not going to be one of those times.

>>1563561
Sometimes that's all well and good, this is not one of those occasions. The chances of you even being able to make something balanced enough to get a quad off the ground are slim. And with his thin you're going to have to make them for the motor to be able to slow down and speed them up you're going to have literal knives on very high RPM motors.

I realise it's not what you want to hear but you need to listen to us. You can over engineer the frame as much as you want, but trying to machine your own props out of aluminum or titanium is not only going to be far more expensive than you realize. It's also going to be dangerous.

>>1563594
>Your product is inferior and you should feel bad.

No it isn't.

>>1563504
Giving any credence to those comments is a huge mistake. They're all from 2016 and no one has said that they've actually built one. Even the people that said they were going to build prototypes said they were going to 3d print them, not machine them. If you have never built or flown a quad before, do yourself a favor and buy or build something that is proven to work. Once you have an understanding of it, then start experimenting.

Don't be one of those engineers that never leave the design room and draw up shit that can't be built.

should i post some fpv freestyle webms i made or is that off topic

>>1564133
please do. That would be much better than >>1563698

I'm going to be flying a drone at the beach for a few days.
Do I need to worry about the salt in the air or something messing with the motors long-term?

Imagine having everything set up and ready to fly and not having a proper XT-90 connector to solder onto the damn thing.

>>1564290
Avoid taking off from & landing on sand, the ferrous particles will get stuck in your motors. If there's really no alternative, put a tarp or blanket down first.

>>1563847
it's like $20 worth of aluminum though, as soon as I get it onto an electric motor I can tell if it's going to be shit or wicked cool

>>1564310
Sorry eurobro. I have some spares I would send you if you were here in burgerland.

>>1564339
Make sure you get a video of this stupidity.

>>1564345
>make sure you get a video of this stupidity

Gonna be hard to upload a video when it kills him.

Anyone make a drone that can spray stuff?

I want one that can use flex seal to temporary repair blown off shingles on a roof too high to easily fix.

>>1564633
Found a gif, made a webm of it.

>>1564638
if only i could put my dick on a drone and do this.

>>1564651
Found a smaller one for your dick.

>>1564656
it was big enough for your mother

>>1564633
Surely the propwash would render this useless?

Hi, I'm new to flying RC stuff. I thought I could start with a wing, I already have nichrome wire to cut foam with and a 3D printer so I can print pieces as needed.
I can figure the electronics and other stuff out, but aerodynamics is out of my field of expertise. Can someone point me to some info/tutorials on how to design and build an efficient RC wing?

My ultimate goal would be to build a medium-long range FPV wing.

>>1564884
You could do a lot worse than starting with the free designs from Flite Test.

>>1564633
https://youtu.be/glmBvkQhKk4

There are also agriculture drones that spray pesticide, but that's more of a mist.

>>1564936
That channel got really boring really quickly when Peter left.

one of the stupidest things ive ever done desu

>>1565229
>>1565239

I like the mile long hallway in the first one. too bad about the potato cam

>>1565258
it's the compression tool i used (ffmpeg + master of webm), it was filmed on a gopro session 1080p 60fps, but apparently im bad at converting videos under the 3mb limit.

>>1565229
Is that one of those flood tunnels the americans have?
How come they aren't full of gypsies and crackheads?

>>1565310
Because its in America, not Italy/Netherlands/UK/etc

>>1565317
I also don't see any homeless or methheads in it.

>>1565319
Heroin is a bigger issue in America than meth. And at least in my area the homeless leave their bridges to put up a cardboard sign during the day.

Your America dissing needs work, Cant compare the entirety of the US to one European country considering most states are the size of a European country. Most single states have a smaller homeless population than London alone.

>>1565322
Dissing America? I'm fully willing to admit that drugs and gypsies are problems that affect all our countries. I was just wondering why the tunnels look so relatively clean. Over here a long tunnel like that would be covered in the filth of a dozen refugee camps, even while the refugees are out mugging and raping.

>>1565324
Well it is covered in graffiti. If it is a flood tunnel recent rains would have washed out all the filth. Could also just be an area where the local city employees who are supposed to keep it clean actually do.

>>1565324
we don't really have gypsies.

>>1565322
America and Russia have heroin and meth. Netherlands and UK have cocaine and ecstacy.
I'd say that you have a bigger problem than we, coke is bad but it's still not as bad as heroin and meth.

Could someone help me figure out what's wrong here? When the motors start they make a strange tick-tick-tick sound and shake back and forth for a second before they get going.

>>1565695
one of them wired wrong?

>>1565695
both motors or just one? did you calibrate your ESCs? You should double check your solder joints to be sure they're good. Also, are you using an appropriate battery for what the ESC/motors are rated for?

>>1565700
Blue to blue, yellow to yellow, red to red. It runs just fine once it actually gets going, the problem only comes when it needs to start.
>>1565722
Both. I haven't calibrated my ESCs, because neither the motor nor the ESC manuals said I needed to. I don't suppose there's a standard method of calibrating ESCs, and that "OCDay" happened to follow it. I haven't soldered anything relevant to the drive train, but considering how it runs well once it gets started I don't think the Chinese failed on that either.
This is what I get for not buying those fancy Traxxas spare part ESCs, huh?

>>1565322
How many of your states have a population of 60+ million? So what if there are no homeless people in fucking Nebraska or wherever, like 5 people live there.

Okay, so now that I am done building the actual quad, I want to set up the video.

I will be using either one of these gimbals:

https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-T4-3D-Dual-Shock-Absorber-3-Axis-Gimbal-PTZ-for-Gopro-Hero4-3-3-FPV-Quadcopter-TL3D02-p-1044459.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-GOPRO-3D-Metal-CNC-3-Axis-Brushless-Gimbal-PTZ-for-GOPRO-4-3-3-FPV-Quadcopter-TL3T01-p-1044458.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

and either a GoPro Hero 4 or some GoPro form factor action camera that will do the following:

>Record high quality video
>Be able to send a lower quality video stream which will then be sent to my phone via any VTX that doesn't use the 2.4GHz band

How can I go about to do this? I don't want, nor have enough money to spend on goggles or an FPV monitor, and I'd like to avoid adding 2 cameras to the quad and to be able to use just one for both tasks, if possible.

>>1565724
Typically to calibrate the ESC's you do this: turn transmitter on first, move throttle to full throttle. Plug in tank, ESC's should beep (different than normal power on). Lower throttle to zero, ESC's should beep again. Unplug and plug back in (with throttle at zero), then test it.

>>1565730
This or something similar for the phone. Just know that this will have much more latency than a dedicated FPV camera. You'll also need a 5.8 GHz video transmitter for the GoPro. Search for "GoPro FPV out" and you'll get some results showing how to hook it up.

https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG01-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Full-Channel-FPV-Receiver-For-Android-Mobile-Phone-Smartphone-p-1147692.html?rmmds=search&ID=224&cur_warehouse=CN

Will I notice any major difference if I switch from generic chink motors to ones from a reputable manufacturer that will be worth the hassle?

>>1565735
>to calibrate the ESC's
Oh, you mean adjusting the throttle? I don't think that's the problem, it "idles" just fine (never any jerks or movements when the throttle is neutral) and the motors start at about 6% throttle, which is where I want it anyway. The problem is that no matter how much throttle I give, it never just starts to move smoothly, first it lays still just rocking back and forth for about a second before it gets moving. Randomly either motor will be slightly quicker than the other and it therefore starts with a pivot turn regardless of the steering signal.

I'll be controlling it through an arduino eventually, but right now the ESCs are just hooked directly into a AR6210 6-channel RX.

I'm pretty sure the problem is with either the ESCs or the motors. The ESCs are "OCDAY 60A Waterproof Car/Boat ESC" from ali, the motors are Leopard Hobby 730kv 2830-16t. They'll start spinning just fine when disconnected from the tank, and once the tank gets moving they're very fast, but I still get this really weird "shivering" every time it starts moving.

>>1565735
After some more digging, I found out that you can use a cable like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8G-FPV-Video-Conversion-Cable-Transmission-Wire-for-Gopro-Hero-3-3-hero4/401208468320?hash=item5d69e36360:g:ghMAAOSwv5NbJl0f:rk:9:pf:0

to connect the camera from its USB port to the video transmitter. The only issue being that the newer firmware on both the Hero 3/3+ and 4 blocks the video output, but that can be mitigated in some way or another.

I am also using this PDB on my quad:

http://www.mateksys.com/?portfolio=hubosd8-h

Will I be able to utilise the OSD provided by the PDB? I am also assuming that video transmitter choice won't affect it, right? Finally, can you suggest me a good transmitter for my use case? It can be as powerful as a nuclear reactor for all I care, no one cares about anything here anyway.

Oh, and I found an updated version of the receiver you posted previously:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Eachine-ROTG02-UVC-OTG-5-8G-150CH-Audio-FPV-Receiver-For-Android-Mobile-Phone-Tablet-Smartphone/32846480395.html

Thanks.

>>1565767
>They'll start spinning just fine when disconnected from the tank
Is there something wrong with the bearings for the drive sprocket then?

>>1565768
The PDB itself does the OSD? That's interesting, usually it's through the flight controller. Yes, you should see the OSD because it's overlaying it onto the video before it sends it to your phone, goggles, or whatever you're receiving with. Any of the eachine transmitters will be fine, get something with a switchable power level. Make sure you get some antennas as well, the rubber duck linear antennas are generally shit.

>>1565787
There are no bearings for the drive sprocket, it's a shaft that connects directly onto the shaft of the motor with a coupler. There's almost no roll resistance, so I don't think the problem is that it's getting stuck.

>>1565787
thoughts?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/matek-5-8g-vtx-hv-switchable-video-transmitter-with-bfcms-control.html

>>1565800
Overpriced.

I'm sure someone else will tell you different but I just bought like 6 of the $11 eachine VTXs off banggood. Haven't even broke 1 yet.

What does "This is a matched Tx/RX pair" mean?

Also, will replacing the antennas on pic related with something more fancy help with improving the range?

>>1566136
Not sure where you got that from, that thing is a single unit used to get an FPV display on a phone or tablet. I used one with my first whoop because I couldnt afford goggles at the time. Come to find out it has too much lag to be useful for anything but an audience view.

>>1566176
it has a ~100ms latency, which is okay for being able to see what your filming. I will be using it on a 500mm quad.

>>1566181
Long as its something like a camera rig with GPS, slow going, shouldnt really matter. ~100ms may not seem like much until youre flying 90mph.

>>1566203
>something like a camera rig with GPS
it's exactly that

thanks for pointing it out anyway.

>>1566206
Never heard of X Class have we?

>>1566208
What about it?

>>1565790
Direct drive with what looks like outrunners? 730kv is pretty good torque, and you say it does get moving eventually, so I think the problem is your ESCs. They're probably meant for geared inrunners or boats, both of which are cases that need much less torquey starts. If it isn't programmable, you might need to buy a new one. I'd recommend BLHeli, as far as I'm aware they're programmable to include reverse and braking, which should mean they can be used just fine for your tank. Someone more informed than me please confirm or deny this.

>>1566224
The issue with torque starts is that he needs a sensored motor, not that his ESC is bad. He'd have just as much if not more trouble with blheli.

Aw yiss my own carbon fibre parts arrived from Shenzhen~

Pleasantly surprised with the quality & it worked out at £20 per set including shipping (each set is two circular parts plus two rectangular parts), while the only UK company that actually responded to me (but never actually followed through with an invoice) wanted £32 per set, before shipping.

>>1565229
I'm guessing you've now learned a little more about how radio waves work? :3

Already assembled the third set, I was worried about the tolerance on the M3 holes but most of them are absolutely fine & just a few on the top plate needed one turn with the hexdriver to get the bolt through.

>>1565727
California almost certainly does. We got almost 40 million officaly and we dont count 25% of the brown people.

>>1566227
>>1566224
Yeah, it is probably the ESCs. I just bought a pair of 120A ESCs for rock crawlers, they support sensors and are from a reputable brand. My motors don't have sensors built in, but apparently you can mount hall sensors externally, so I'll buy that stuff and 3D print a bracket to mount it. Apparently sensorless ESCs use resistance from the back EMF to determine how quickly the motor is moving, and the little shakes my tank did are enough to get a very highly geared inrunner on a car moving, or a rotor on a multicopter spinning, but it apparently isn't quite enough for a tank, at least not at first go. With sensors apparently I'll be able to get much more torque out of them.

And if it does turn out to be the motors, at least then I'll have ESCs strong enough to drive those little sensored motors used in electric skateboards, so in that case I'll buy a pair of those and raise the sprocket wheel a bit to fit them in.

>>1566559
I doubt you'll need hall sensors. Back in the day sensors got you 50% more torque, but nowadays sensorless ESCs have gotten really good. Dump the Chinese ESCs and you'll probably get by.

>>1565159
Why haven't they still not sacked that highly annoying retarded manlet ffs.

>>1565159
He has his own channel now. He made a real aircraft out of RC components, there's a lot of build videos as well as a few where he himself actually flies in it.
Also a huge twelve-prop multicopter that his father flew around in.

>>1565695
Your motors are way too small. Four of those are meant to drive props on a drone a twentieth the weight of your tank. Are those cast metal tracks? That thing is going to need either a gearbox or much larger motors. If you want to stick with direct drive outrunner, which I'm guessing was the plan here, you want motors so big that their backs almost touch. Google showed me a few models similar to yours but with plastic tracks, and they used brushed motors about the same size with 1:20 gearboxes. Brushed motors are torquier than brushless, and they still had to use a twenty gear ratio to get a much lighter tank running.
>>1566559
Go ahead and buy the skateboard motors right away. Those have something like 100 kv rating, so even smaller ones should be able to drive your tank. Just bear in mind that even with those ultra low kv outrunners, electric skateboards still either need to be geared (usually done with a drive belt) or have the rider provide the initial bit of speed. I reckon your tank will be alright, it'll probably have less rolling resistance and inertia than a skateboard with one of those 160kg whales on top, but you might still need to gear it.

Think positively, those little red motors are from a not very bad brand, if I were you I'd go on flite test and make one of their twin engine foamboard planes. Very fun and easy to make.

Can something like this

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:946565

help improve the range of the thing in the pic >>1566136

>>1567706
Start by telling us what antenna you have on the quad - is it actually linear polarised?

>>1567706
Yes, but not as much as simply buying a directional antenna directly.
That's sort of the point of diversity (multi antenna) setups like that, you run with two whips on the plane itself and then on your ground station you have one whip (so you don't have to constantly turn around close range) and one directional antenna (for far away, obviously).

A reflector add on helps a bit, but it isn't that difficult to make a real directional antenna yourself, just need to buy the plug, antenna extension wire and some stiff steel wire for the antenna itself.

>>1567717
The antenna for the FPV feed is going to be an omnidirectional clover style 5.8GHz antenna.

>>1567722
Should I just replace the ones that it comes with with something like this

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/foxeer-pagoda-pro-5-8g-fpv-antenna-w-sma-connector-black.html

>>1566646
>Also a huge twelve-prop multicopter that his father flew around in.

>looks like a death machine
>peter admits it's basically a death machine "if this piece of tape gets loose you're fucked lmao"
>flies it anyway for sponsor shekels
based

>>1567723
That's a circular polarised antenna. Regularly speaking they're better for FPV, yes, but you can't mix them with linear antennas, so you'll have to replace all your antennas. Also make sure they're all polarised in the right direction. You'd want a three lobed one on the plane and a four lobe on the ground.

They won't give the same range you'd get with a directional antenna, though. What I would do if I were you is get a regular TX with a cloverleaf, and a diversity RX with one four lobe cloverleaf and one helical antenna. This is a directional antenna that looks a bit like a corkscrew. You'll get close range omnidirectional from the cloverleaf RX, and long range directional as long as you point your helical antenna roughly at the aircraft.

>>1567727
I haven't even bought the camera or the gimbal I'll be using, and because those two cost a lot, I want to save some money for now, by just using my phone and the cheap and high-latency (which shouldn't matter much since I won't be going really fast) RTG02 just to get a sense of what the camera is filming. Later, I'll be upgrading to a FPV monitor once I save up enough money for it.

>Also make sure they're all polarised in the right direction. You'd want a three lobed one on the plane and a four lobe on the ground.

Care to explain or link me something to read?

And what antenna should I be getting for the VTX and should I even bother with the antennas on the receiver or just leave them as is?

>>1567735
I just explained that, you will want a transmitter with one antenna and a receiver with two, and specifically one advertised as "diversity" (this means that it will automatically use the best antenna type for the moment). On the receiver I would start by just using what is on there, and if you notice that you need more range, look into replacing one antenna with a directional one then.

Handedness: https://blog.banggood.com/rhcp-and-lhcp-whats-the-difference-29046.html
Linear or circular: https://oscarliang.com/linear-circular-polarized-antenna-fpv/

>>1565349
Only Egypt has more gypsies than the USA. Romania, worldwide considered the gypsy heartland, has far fewer gypsies.

>>1567742
Let me see if I got everything straight:

1. If I use a e.g. RHCP antenna on the VTX, then the VTR should use a RHCP antenna as well

2. If I want to go with a diversity receiver down the road (which will use e.g. a cloverleaf and a helical antenna) I will be okay if I my VTX stays exactly the same

3. For now, like I said, I'll be using the ROTG02 which will send the video feed to my phone. It uses 2 linear polarised antennas, if I'm not mistaken. Can I use a cloverleaf antenna on the VTX and keep the original antennas on the receiver or do I have to replace those as well if I want to use a cloverleaf antenna on the VTX?

If I have to use a linear polarised antenna on the VTX, would it be just better to just buy cloverleaf antennas with the same polarization for both the VTX and the VTR?

Finally, can I use a dual cloverleaf antenna with e.g. right hand polarization on the receiver, or something entirely different?

>>1568216
>If I use a e.g. RHCP antenna on the VTX, then the VTR should use a RHCP antenna as well

Yes.

>If I want to go with a diversity receiver down the road (which will use e.g. a cloverleaf and a helical antenna) I will be okay if I my VTX stays exactly the same

Yes.

>It uses 2 linear polarised antennas, if I'm not mistaken.

Correct.

>Can I use a cloverleaf antenna on the VTX and keep the original antennas on the receiver

Yes. It won't give you the best performance, but it will work just fine. To put this in context, I once flew half a dozen batteries with literally no antenna on my VRX whatsoever, with no issues whatsoever. I was only flying ~200ft away, but still.

>If I have to use a linear polarised antenna on the VTX, would it be just better to just buy cloverleaf antennas with the same polarization for both the VTX and the VTR?

If your VTX has a permanently fixed linear polarised antenna that you can't swap out for a circular polarised antenna, you'll be better off staying with the stock linear polarised antennas on the VRX. But if your VTX has a removable antenna I'd recommend going with circular polarised antennas on both VTX & VRX.

>Finally, can I use a dual cloverleaf antenna with e.g. right hand polarization on the receiver, or something entirely different?

You _can_ use two cloverleafs on your VRX, but that slightly defeats the point of a diversity receiver. The point is that you get the best of both worlds from two different reception pattern antennas, eg one lower gain omnidirectional cloverleaf & one higher gain directional patch/helical/crosshair.

>>1568253
>You _can_ use two cloverleafs on your VRX [...] one higher gain directional patch/helical/crosshair.

With regard to replacing the two stock antennas with two cloverleaf ones, I am talking about the thing in pic related, not the FPV monitor (or goggles if I can get some decent ones for cheap) that I will be buying later down the road. Will it work with two different types of antennas?

>>1568295
Yes. A diversity receiver is a diversity receiver, regardless of whether it's built into a monitor, a pair of goggles, or a USB dongle.

>>1568296
That's great.

Thanks for helping me clear things up.

>>1568216
Linear antenna means that the signal can bounce off of the ground, cars, anything really, and when it does so the signal quality degrades. Circular antenna means that when the signal bounces, it changes "handedness", and your receiver can only read one handedness. As long as you have the same handedness on the RX and the TX you will thus get way less disturbances from bounced signals, since they'd need to bounce twice to be the right handedness again, and at that point they're so weak they don't matter. So basically a circular antenna then only listens to signals directly from the transmitter. Which handedness your antenna is doesn't matter as long as you have the same handedness on both the TX and the RX.

How bad are these solder joints?

>>1551737
Why not make something that releases from the balloon and returns your asspensive electronics so you don't have to drive three hours to try and find them?

>>1568832
FCC ground and hot bridged

Gonna let all the smoke out/10

>>1568889
I noticed that they looked bridged when I was done soldering them, but I took out my multimeter and tested them with continuity and there wasn't a connection between them.

I have also successfully tested it with a battery as well.

>>1568832
Not the worst I've seen, but still pretty gnarly. You're not actually completely melting the whole joints by the looks of it, which is why they appear more like lumps sat on top of the pads rather than nicely moulding down onto them.

It's mostly about practice, but for bigger joints like your power wiring you will find that a decently powerful iron (~60W) with a chisel tip (not a conical tip) will be a big help.

>>1568906
My iron isn't powerful enough, because I have to use it at its maximum setting and even then it still wouldn't suffice to melt things down properly. I want to buy a ~100-150$ soldering station down the road, this little soldering station I have had sufficed for basically everything up until this.

I have a big cheap soldering iron lying around, with a big nose and no temperature control. Should I give it a try?

>>1568832
Pretty shoddy. Use thinner wires, presolder the pads and wires, don't use excessive amount of solder. Yours is prime example of excessive amount of solder, it is actually weaker than the optimal less amount of solder used.

>>1568908
I've been down the same road, and I can only say don't cheat out on the soldering station.
60W at least and a good brand. Been using Weller for many years but it is less powerful than advertised. Recently got a Hakko and it heats up in 15s and doesn't cool down much when used on bigger joints. My old Weller needed at least a minute to heat up and would cool below freezing temperature on bigger joints. It was labeled as 55W but in reality it was the same as a cheaper 40W station, and even then it didn't provide the labeled power. It was very inefficient.
I know Ersa is also a good brand but they were bought up by the chinese. If you can find a 20y old or more used station in good condition, buy it, but anything recent from them is a risk.
If you get a good station then all your work will be easy, a cheap station will only give you struggle every time you sit down to solder.

>>1569498
>cheat out
*cheap out is what I meant

>>1554587
Are you the Anon who asked about the S500 kit with Naza-M or APM for a first camera drone build?
Looking very nice, make sure you put the GPS puck 4-5 cm above the motor plane to put it out of magnetic noise.
If you want OSD look for N1 OSD, works well with Naza-M and Lite.

>>1554815
Have the same feeling, actually I have a spare Naza board somewhere plus ESCs and some beat up motors

>>1565695
You need sensored high torque car motors and sensored ESCs, something like the ones used in crawler trucks

>>1567726
Why won't they ever use ducted fans? Propeller human drones will always look gimmicky and dangerous.

>>1567726
He's thai. It's that south-east asian "human life is worthless" mentality turned around to be used for YouTube entertainment.

>>1569565
>>>/pol/

>>1569538
Yes!

https://imgur.com/a/HSqJCyp

I've also flashed the NAZA with the V2 4.02 firmware and it works just fine, only downside is that I don't have access to the CANBUS that required the V2 PMU.

I have 3D printed a mount for the GPS and the LED that mounts them very neatly to the rails of the frame. After I did a compass calibration, I haven't had any issues with the GPS or the compass not being properly calibrated, but I still haven't flown the thing to know for sure. I tried raising the throttle and then lifting it with my hands and banking it left and right and it seems to try to stabilize the craft as it should, so it's looking good.

The N2 (updated version of the N1) looks very promising if I can get it to work and gives you a lot of data to work with. Too bad I won't be using the OSD that my PDB provides. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

>>1569707
The problem with motor noise on the compass is it only becomes an issue when the motors are running, you will see in the OSD the compass is moving while hovering in Atti. Simply raising the puck solves the issue, this is why most GPS mounts come with a long pole, but that height is not really needed.
If you run into this problem just put a finger wide block under the puck.

Also I'm glad to see you're still around and the drone is coming together nicely. Made me think about building one too.
Too seriously though, have a bid running on a flamewheel kit :)

>>1569745
basically raise it by 2-3cm from its current position and I should be fine?

>>1569745
>>1569746
Would wrapping stuff up in copper foil help?

>>1569707
BTW what is that black case for the Naza? The Lite comes in the old white/red case and the "new" V2 comes in a black/yellow case.

>>1569748
It would mask it from the GPS signal, so no. Just raise it if you have orientation problems and rotate it to the real magnetic pole (4°to the left where I am) if it toiletbowls badly.

>>1569750
it's an aluminum case I got from HK for literary 1$.

>>1569752
If I wrapped the exterior of the 3D printed thing that holds it in place, would that help? Or even the ESCs?

>>1569754
Nah, it is the rotating magnetic field from the motors that make the motors rotate. The scattered flux can interfere with the magnetic compass, but this depends on the motors design. Good quality motors interfere less, bad quality motors can be a constant annoyance. There are cheap motors with little interference, this is not really measured by the manufacturers.
The easiest solution is simply raising it out of the interference bubble. It is more of a flatter donut actually, per motor.

>>1569759
The whole unit is actually almost entirely below the two rear motors, would that mean that it's out of the interference zone? Wouldn't raising by a couple of centimeters actually make the interference by the magnetic field created by the motor's magnets stronger?

>>1569767
Can't really tell, you'll see when you fly it. Most of the time it is just a constant drift in GPS but not the toiletbowl.
If it is severe enough to make it unable to fly then your motors would be bust enough to hear it.
Don't worry too much about it, the compass is only active in GPS, you can fly it in Atti without any problems from interference

>>1569745
Glad I'm not the only one that just wants to build. I've been looking at doing an S500. I really wanna find a nice carbon fiber frame for a large quad though, maybe even on that can be converted to x8 if I ever wanted to.

>>1569787
I also have a Multiplex Twinstar and a Tucan in box, a glow powered Yak-54 waiting to finish a repair, an F5J glider waiting for maiden and recently saw a plan and build of a Hawker Hind that lodged itself into my mind and I just have to build it one day
I also have a glow powered Texan waiting for electric conversion and complete overhaul/repair and a Ryan PT-20 glow waiting for electric conversion only.
Plus I have work and a BSc thesis waiting to be written. I should really concentrate on this latter task though

>>1549558
What are the possibilities to build a drone with long batterytime. Exchangeable battery. Manual control aswell as follow mode? Also it needs a thermal camera that is controllable.

And the when I say follow mode I would like to have it about 100 m ahead of the direction im moving.

>>1570078
Not having to constantly pump power just to stay in the air, so a long flight time drone is usually a fixed wing drone, flying wing having the least amount of drag.
Try the S800 wing.
The rest of your post is just plain stupid, reminds me of the idiot who wanted to use a drone to hold a lamp all night.

>>1569707
The great thing about the N1/2 OSD is that it takes care of the Canbus for you, no need to try and get a V2 PMU.

>>1570129
You're stupid. you dont even know what it's for

>>1570155
But to program a drone to fly ahead of you isnt something you just do, Following you is easier, but 100m is long distance.

>>1570159
Yeah I know but maybe you could get a fixed wing drone to circle you?

>>1570129
>>1570155
How's the hot air balloon lamp working out for you?

I am looking to buy a new soldering station since my old cheap one is pretty shit for soldering big power wires and tips for it are impossible to come by locally and it costs 35 euros for 4 chisel tips, which is ridiculous, considering the station itself was bought for like 25-30 euros.

One of you has the Hakko FX888D, but in my shithole it retails for 170 euros, which is way too much for me. I was looking into buying a Weller soldering station but the good ones are way too expensive and the cheaper models are overpriced.

Any suggestions for a decent soldering station that can use both chisel and conical tips that aren't as expensive as the soldering station itself? I am willing to spend around 60-80 euros. It could be from Amazon UK or from some chink site.

>>1570154
>it takes care of the Canbus for you
??

Have you used any of the Nx OSDs yourself? I still haven't being able to figure out how this thing exactly works. Will the N3 work without the V2 PMU?

And the N2 can be used without the V2 PMU, correct?

>>1570211
I'm that guy >>1566245 with the FX-888D. If you can order from Amazon UK, is there any reason why you can't order from Dancap Electronics (http://www.dancap.co.uk/)) ? They're the official Hakko partner for the UK & even though their site looks like something from 30 years ago (although I see they now accept Paypal, whereas when I ordered mine they would only do bank transfer) they're legit. They currently list the FX-888D at £88.98 before tax & shipping, which should be a lot less than 170 Eur total.

>>1570249
Any idea if the same shipping costs apply for other countries in the EU?

>>1570253
Shipping will be more expensive to the continent than within the UK, but it won't be crazy expensive. Send them an email, they responded super quick when I got mine.

>>1570249
Do I have to contact them directly to make an order and to arrange the payment with PayPal?

>>1570257
Yup, just email them. It's a super oldschool setup, but they're solid.

>>1570219
I have the N1, it is literally plug and play, where the iOSD needs the extended canbus connector of the V2 PMU the Lite does not have.
You simply plug it in and it works, with the Lite PMU. No Canbus problems whatsoever, GPS, compass and level/gyro data straight in the OSD.

>>1570256
>>1570249
I wish I knew this when I got my Hakko from Amazon. But the main thing is the Hakko is awesome and is an absolute joy to work with.

Tfw not flown FPV in months :( At least I still get out to fly for work, I guess?

>>1569565
Peter is based and redpilled, fuck off.

>>1570574
He voted Trump?
I'm quite surprised. Both that he actually would, and that he would tell anyone.

I found a Hitec Aurora 9 for cheap (less than a new FrSky) in the local adverts, looks like a good one with huge screen and touch controls but I actually never heard of it.
Is it a good one for starting out?

where's UAVFutures?

>>1571686
on youtube?

>>1571684
Take a look at what receivers are available/compatible with it. One of the big advantages of FrSky are the tiny/cheap receivers.

>>1571686
He's a shameless shill who misleads people who are new to the hobby by pushing whatever crap banggood/gearbest are paying him to wank over that week.

>>1571733
The seller says he gives 6 receivers with the radio, 2x 6ch soft (?), 1x 7ch, 1x 9ch and 2x 8ch FrSky.
Does this mean it is compatible with FrSky receivers?

>>1571766
nvm, found the FrSky has Hitec and Futaba compatible receivers called Delta 8.
I also found Hitec has tiny sbus receivers as well, that is what is used for racing drones, right? I'm interested in fixed winged models as well.

Holy shit, the 9ch and 7ch receivers cost as much new as the whole set, I'm definitely going for it!

>>1571767
>Holy shit, the 9ch and 7ch receivers cost as much new as the whole set,

You're potentially misleading yourself here, as any modern cheap sbus receivers has 16 channels. Just because something was expensive a few years ago doesn't mean it's still worth anything now - this is particularly true in the world of quads, where tech moves _very_ fast.

>>1571733
The guy gives bad reviews about shit thats bad, talked shit about gearbest for like a week when they tried to take advantage of one of his reviews by raising the price of a BNF after learning he was going to review it. Youre just pissy you dont get free shit.

>>1571803
I am committed now, and it has built in fixed wing and glider functions which I have to program individually on the FrSky.

>>1571862
>The guy gives bad reviews about shit thats bad

Except when he doesn't, like his EV100 coverage which he said were amazing but literally everybody else said were garbage. Hint - he did it so people would use his affiliate link to preorder them, knowing that not many legit reviews would be out at the same time as his, because they were still preorder & banggood only sent review copies to shameless shills like him.

>order a bunch of XT-90 connectors from HK to address X
>after a month and a half of waiting I order them again but to address Y, same exact warehouse and shipping method
>they both arrive at the same fucking day
>delivery details on the first order had faded from the sun because it had been sitting for so fucking long
>meanwhile the second order arrived in almost a week's time
>the subhuman scum working at the post office in this shithole can't even be arsed to do their god damn fucking job that they are getting paid for
>a shitty little parcel from the UK took A MONTH AND A HALF to arrive to another country also in the EU

Hope they all get fired. Oh wait, all workers that work at a state owned business are hired for life and aren't easily dismissable! What a fucking shithole.

Also:

>weather's been fine for the last week or so, sunny skies, no strong winds, and a warm ~20C
>the day I am finally able to fly the goddamn thing, fucking thunderstorms hit my area
>they've been going strong for like 2 days now, will prolly go on for another 1 or 2 days at least.

I'm getting tired of getting meme'd.

sorry for the shitty blog.

whats the cheapest but still good transmitter and goggles if i want to get into fpv drone making (smaller scale, around 5" max)

>>1573080
With all the recent brexit shenanigans I am not at all surprised some bigot retards are kicking packages around instead of delivering them to EU.
I had a POS yelling at me on ebay for how dare I buy his stuff, no EU shit is going to get his stuff. I say they all deserve whatever the brexit disaster is dropping on their head.
I'd love to see when the hard brexit happens and they kick all the immigrants out, who is going to run the country? In 2013 the kids were already complaining about no money and no jobs yet they wouldn't do anything below office work at 70k. We are talking about high school graduates and before/along with uni students. Flipping burgers and fish and chips, cleaning, shop clerk, free 1-2y internship were stinky and strictly no-go. No wonder they are overrun by immigrants.

>>1573096
FrSky Q X7 and used Fatshark Attitude V3 with True-D or Achilles compatible VRx

>>1573103
theres no used market for fpv gear in my country
are there no decent cheap goggles?

>>1573109
The next cheap goggle set is the Attitude V4 that you can buy new. Alternatively you can settle with a Teleporter v. something (4/5?) but it's ass. Still much better than box goggles though.
Also try other countries, EU, USA etc..., the used market is quite good here.
If you are willing to go with box goggles then STAY AWAY FROM Hobbyking/Quanum DIY goggles!!!!! You were warned!
Fatshark has a nice set of box goggles called Transformer, even the V1 has separate lens segments per eye, so it won't be a pain, Beware, box goggles generally are heavy and unwieldy, uncomfortable to use.

>>1573117
Can confirm the Transformers are nice, my father bought a pair for himself to try and get into this with me. Hes very near sighted and couldn't focus on any of the other goggles we tried, the transformers have like an inch of adjustable focal range.

>>1573222
All box goggles have limited focusing range and no option for diopter inserts.
Fatshark goggles have diopter inserts, either fix diopter inserts from Fatshark or you can get your inserts done from prescription by RHO lens.
As I said box goggles are unwieldy and not nice to begin with, the Transformer is good from the bunch, but it won't make it nice to use. If you have glasses, box goggles are a no go. Maybe if you find one where you can fit your glasses in, but you will have massive light leaks shitting on your flying experience.
For me I have +0.5 diopter glasses, one is for cylinder diopter, and I have no problem using the Attitude. This is for the cylinder diopter/double sight, not the 0.5 diopter glasses.

>>1573275
Eh, they work well for my dad, he can focus on them perfectly without his glasses. As for me, I popped the lenses out of my last pair of glasses and hot glued them into my fatsharks, works perfect.

>>1549558
Ideally, how far should a magnetic compass be placed from any battery/motors/electronics?

If it is placed about 40cm above, this should be sufficient? I'd rather not have to do any soft iron calibration.

>>1573117
i don't care about form factor that much honestly
i'm not going to be going outside much and mostly i will be using them for testing
i don't intend to race, i'm more interested in selling finished drones to enthusiast friends
what are the major downsides of buying cheap box goggles apart from the obvious (look retarded and probably uncomfy)

>>1573391
If you didn't catch the hint, it is not about form factor, it is about being able to use them properly.
Flying takes a lot of concentration, you might not feel it but it is hard work, even when you are cruising in circles around the field. You either fly line of sight, this time you are looking at it from the ground, or you fly from camera, this time you are looking from the camera's perspective. When you have a little bit a light leak it is annoying, but flyable. When you have a lot of light leak you won't be able to see the screen properly, worst case you pick up stationary details through the gaps and screw up your perspective fucking up your mental orientation, same thing as losing orientation in LOS.
Coupled with it constantly pulling off your head, making you point your VRx to the ground is just bad. I've been through this hellhole, flying was unbearable to the extent a fucking shitbox Teleporter was a huge relief.
Not to mention the optics in most box goggles are single lens construction (except in the Transformer with the double lens, one for each eye) which is a pain for the eyes.

Think what you want, this is the third time I explained it to you, I ain't going to do it any more. Don't come back crying you spent so much money on a set when you get constant eyesore and swelling.

>>1573307
Depends on said electronics and motors. Ideally you put it on top, wherever you have space, if it is misbehaving just put it higher, on a boom. Generally 40mm is enough, if your motors are particularly shit then some more.

How are these different to each other and which one do I want to be buying for my quad?

>>1573680
and before you start screeching at me, I checked the "Multirotor" box but props labeled as "Slowfly" would still appear.

>>1573680
What kind of quad?
Generally for drone usage go for multirotor. The most efficient are the T-motor folding and DJI style props, these have very wide base and thin out at the tip, these are designed for lower rpm performance.
The rest on your list are used on fixed winged models.

>>1573683
Yeah, before we had specific multirotor designs we used Slowfly and "thin electric" props for our multicopters.
Racer drones have their own designs at 6" and smaller.

I am looking to buy an action camera to mount on my quad. Here's what I'm looking for:

>record at least 1080p 60FPS, bonus points for 4K 30FPS, with decent video quality
>can output AV feed for FPV while it's recording
>can be mounted on a 3 axis brushless gimbal
>max. 120-150 euros, willing to buy used

I was thinking of buying a Hero 3+ or a Hero 4, but honestly, I think that they're kinda old. Should I just get one of the aforementioned ones or is there a good chink alternative?

>>1574290
Used Session 4 or 5, Runcam 3/3s, Foxeer something (switch off electronic stabilization)
I have the RC3, it’s bretty nice, not really missing 4K. RC3s improves on audio quality.

>>1574304
Also Runcam Split, but it’s basically a RC3 without the housing and battery

>>1574304
>>1574307
The Runcam 3S looks decent, but I've only found one Tarot 3 axis gimbal (servo driven) that's for the Session 4 but should fit the 3S nevertheless.

https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-TL3T02-T-3D-IV-3-Axis-Brushless-Gimbal-for-Gopro-Hero-4-SESSION-Camera-p-1090577.html?cur_warehouse=CN

However, I would like to buy a (preferably brushless) gimbal that will outlive the camera that it will be stabilizing in the sense that I would like to be able to mount a different action cam of a similar form factor down the road, even if it would need some modifications or some 3D printed parts to make everything fit. Does anything like that even exist or should I just buy a gimbal that will fit a standard form factor action camera?

Finally, what do I need to look out for, when shopping for a gimbal, with regard to it being compatible with the NAZA? I'd also like to be able to control the pitch axis with a knob, if that's possible.

>>1574534
Look for Quanum/Feiyutech 3D Mini gimbal, the Session one fits the RC3, RC3s is a bit bigger, needs adjustment. The cradle is fitted on with screws, you can pretty much DIY a cradle specifically for your camera from plywood.
It is a plug and play gimbal, no need to dial in PIDs, works right out of the box. Needs the weight of the whole Session/RC3 camera to work right, it will spaz out empty or with just a Split

>>1574534
Also that gimbal you posted is a brushless gimbal, not a servo one. Avoid servo gimbals.

>>1574534
>shopping for a gimbal, with regard to it being compatible with the NAZA
NAZA only gives stabilization controls for 2D stab and only for servos, and is not very good to begin with. Use a gimbal with separate control board, either the Tarot you linked or the one posted in >>1574541 will work well.

>>1574844
What I meant was if it would be possible to manually control e.g. the pitch axis of the gimbal through the X1 channel on the NAZA so as to control, even in a kinda limited way, what the camera is filming. The stabilization would still be handled by the dedicated gimbal control board.

>>1574541
>>1574542
I've only been able to find that particular gimbal on gearbest:

https://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_212209.html

Is there anything that can be had for ~100-120 euros and still be able to fit most action cameras that have the rectangular GoPro style design?

>>1575061
You can control all 3 axis through separate channels from the receiver. No need to have NAZA do anything with it. The gimbal knows how to stabilize in the mean time on its own.

All similar size 3D gimbals are capable of holding a normal GoPro, if it comes with the session or Mobius cradle you can buy a normal GoPro cradle, or just DIY one from scrap.

>>1575061
I only noticed the Quanum/Feiyu Tech gimbals are discontinued.
I'd go for the Tarot gimbals, make sure it comes with a control module. These look good:

https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-GOPRO-3D-Metal-CNC-3-Axis-Brushless-Gimbal-PTZ-for-GOPRO-4-3-3-FPV-Quadcopter-TL3T01-p-1044458.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Tarot-T4-3D-Dual-Shock-Absorber-3-Axis-Gimbal-PTZ-for-Gopro-Hero4-3-3-FPV-Quadcopter-TL3D02-p-1044459.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

So I just accidentally my first drone please no bully it's an E58. Flew it into something and stalled the rotor wouldn't shut off in time. Now one rotor comes straight on when I put the battery in and the others won't respond. I've checked the other 3 rotors and they are good so that means main board is fucked right? I've ordered a replacement board but want to know if this one is repairable?

rip, the micro-usb port on my first (and only) pair of goggles just crapped out. What's a mid-range (Above the usual eachine shit but not quite FatShark) pair of goggles with dual-antenna diversity?

>>1575314
You call yourself a DIYer? Buy a new usb port and solder it on there.

>>1575325
i've been looking for an excuse to upgrade but now that it's here in front of me i don"t know what to buy

I just threw everything from a mantis85 on a 100mm frame gave it a 200mw camera and some 2540 gemfans it's the tits

86g auw it's pretty quick for 2s

>>1575219
Throw it in the trash, these chinkshit POS can't be repaired.

>>1575327
Just get a proper Fatshark, a used Attitude V3 or V4 will be cheap and good. Get a True-D or Achilles diversity module for maximum value.

It finally flew

>>1575400
Excellent, Anon, now put a gimbal on it.

>>1575400
Question: what is your setup, what battery are you using and what is your AUW?

>>1575402
Wish I actually had the money to buy a gimbal right away. It's going to take some saving up.

>>1575412
The frame is the S500, along with some 3D printed parts for the NAZA GPS/LED, the PDB mount and the receiver and its antennas. I am using a 4S 5000mAh 50C/60C (a bit overkill but whatever it wasn't that much heavier than the 30/40C one and you never know how accurate C rating are) Turnigy LiPo.

Propulsion:
>Generic 2212 920kv motors (DJI 2212 920kv copies)
>1045 DJI style props (1047 carbon fiber ones are on their way)
>Generic 30/35A SimonK ESCs

Electronics:
>NAZA M Lite flashed with M V2 4.0.2 firmware w/ GPS
>Matek Systems HUBOSD eco PDB
>FrSky X8R
>Matek Systems RGB ARM LIGHT 16V, 46*6MM, one for each arm
>FrSky LiPo Voltage Sensor (Smartport)

Used velcro to attach almost everything except from the FC, where I used a high-quality double sided tape. I also bought a CNC aluminum case for the NAZA, so as to not have light leak into the controller and fuck things up, plus it looks really nice and it can be had for just 1$.

Weighs around 1.6 kg. Flies beautifully and stable, with decent maneuverability for its size and it's pretty fast. I didn't fly it very aggressively and I got around 15+ minutes of flight time (battery was discharged to around 14.95V with the lowest cell voltage at 3.75V).

It's my first build ever so you should prolly take some things with a pinch of salt.

>>1575412
I forgot.

What does AUW mean?

>>1575416
Ah, you're S500 guy, couldn't quite make it out from the potato but now I can see it. Good to see it finally works.
Next stop is the camera, and a VTx and N1/2 OSD, maybe a gimbal. I listed two for an anon at >>1575078, the price is quite nice.
Until then practice line-of-sight flying in Atti, do circles (rectangular school circles, long side-short side) and figure 8s to get more friendly with turns and control.

I just dismantled my old quad, so I have the NAZA, OSD, VTx and landing retracts ready for the F450 kit in transit.
€69 for the frame, original motors and ESCs, not a bad deal.

If only I didn't have this thesis I have to write...

>>1575432
AUW means all-up-weight, with battery and everything.
Similarly:
LOS - line of sight
COG or CG - center of gravity
EWD - elevator to wing deflection (angle of main wing chord relative to the horizontal stabilizer or elevator neutral plane) if you go into fixed wing
I think you already know what VTx, VRx, OSD, ESC and FC is.

>>1575439
The pic quality is so shit because I flashed a custom ROM on my phone the other day and some "AI Camera" bs was on while I was taking the pictures and every picture I took looked gloomy and shit, even though my phone has a decent sensor.

Is the N2 basically a superior N1 and connects in the same way to the rest of the electronics as the N1?

Any suggestions for a cheap VTx?

>>1575446
>cheap VTx
I use the common Fatshark 250mW brick that came with my goggles
I use the N1 OSD because it looks the most straightforward, one cable goes from NAZA to OSD, GPS puck connects directly into OSD and a separate connector manages the video input-output. As far as I know the N1/2/3 are mostly the same with the 2 and 3 designed for low end Phantoms and are a bit smaller boards.

>flashing custom ROM
Leave that shit, you will have more problems than what it solves, just use the factory firmware or get an iPhone. Tried it on my phone and tablet, ended up reverting to stock. Then I bought an iPhone.

>>1575452
>Leave that shit, you will have more problems than what it solves, just use the factory firmware or get an iPhone.

I haven't had any issues with it, apart from that, and I just installed Open Camera and I haven't had any issues since. Getting rid of all the chinkshit that came with the phone was great, and the plain android UI is amazing. It also gets frequent updates, on par or even sooner than Xiaomi can put them out for the phone.

>Tried it on my phone and tablet, ended up reverting to stock. Then I bought an iPhone.

I honestly wouldn't want to spend a month's rent on a phone that I will be replacing in like 2 or 3 years time. I'd rather spend ~150-200 euros every 2 or 3 years and not have to worry about all the Apple bullshit, like the restrictions when transfering files to your computer or not being able to transfer stuff over bluetooth to a non apple device, and being locked to a ecosystem of devices.

Anyway, I found this description on bangood (pic related), can you confirm if the N1 is missing the features of the N2 highlighted in red?

>>1575462
>chink phone
Eww...

The N1 doesn't show flight modes but I never felt the need for it since I know if I switched it into GPS or Atti.
Attitude as in artificial horizon always made the screen too busy and not very nice to fly with. If there is a problem it doesn't help if you see all kind of numerical or graphic information when you already know something is wrong.
It is better to have a cleaner image to fly with.
Plus the artificial horizon is never accurate, even with something made for NAZA it is far away from accurate and will show the craft is almost vertical when it is just in a shallow turn or even at level flight.

>>1575462
Also seems like some versions of N1 have horzion show in the menu, can't confirm if mine has one or not since the whole thing is dismantled.
If there is one I am pretty sure I have it set off.

>>1575475
>chink phone
Where are Apple factories located again?

>>1575475
>>1575480
I'll just get the N1 and be done with it 2bh.
Thanks.

>>1575495
Apple phones have no secret spy modules built in.
As someone who works in cutting edge industry I have to be aware of such things. I don't want to see a supposedly in development technology coming back from the chinese. Just look at the Atmega attiny10 and look for the comm and server controversy where they found small grain size extra chip on the mainboards capable of intercepting datastreams.
No way I am going to allow a chink developed thing into my home and office. We have a phone policy for iPhone and Blackberry and I'd rather got the iPhone.
Still it is just a phone, can do messages and read emails, that's it. It's not as big deal as /g/ is telling you.

>>1575505
N1 or N2, which one you can get more easily. If the horizon is bugging you just turn it off.
Note, you will have to solder the voltage leads directly to get a reading of the battery. The OSD gets the operating voltage from the NAZA PMU.

>>1575518
You can't install an adblocker on an iphone though. I've no idea if that is possible on a blackberry, but if I were you I'd just buy one of those Samsung cases that looks like an iphone.

>>1575518
Would it matter if I soldered the voltage leads of the N1/2 on, say, an ESC pad? Because the VCC pad is already cramped with the NAZA PMU wires and the LED power wires.

Bought one of them ryze tellos just to fuck with. Anyone here done some work on the tello?
Hard or software mods?

>>1575520
No need for adblocker on iPhone

>>1575522
Yes, it is okay. The battery voltage is shared in parallel between the ESCs.

>>1575534
Buy an extra set of motors because the wear out (because brushed motors), you have to replace them on your own. Other than that just fly and take selfies and whatever, it is a straightforward little thing.

>>1575557
>no need for adblocker on iPhone
Enjoy being raped every time you surf or try to watch videos then I guess.

>>1575592
You have some really bad delusions about how phones work.
Protip: don't believe anything that /g/ says

>>1575709
It's not a delusion, it's literally what the internet is like nowadays.
https://cloud.netlifyusercontent.com/assets/344dbf88-fdf9-42bb-adb4-46f01eedd629/b4546db4-7d1e-4d4e-8965-005fc88167d5/snap-800px.jpg
https://www.creitive.com/upload/images/1478267058.QXyVOvWsQwapJmJY.png

>>1575715
When you grow up you won't have to do all internet things on your phone. More so you will have to use your phone as a phone and do work with it.
Your assumptions don't apply to me.
I can also guarantee you will quickly uninstall all social media apps the first time it will hinder you in your work, meaning day 1.

I upgraded my frsky R9MM with a T shape antenna today and got much better RSSI.

Flying in my backyard I would sometimes dip down to 45 when I flew behind a row of tall white pine trees. But with the new antenna placed on the arm I get 75

Most of the time flying in my yard the RSSI is pegged at 99 now. Before it would drop down when I was flying in the 80s but now its really solid.

>>1576174
How do you like the R9M and X-Lite? I want a longer range setup, not necessarily the maximum range but being able to fly canyons and mountains in my area would be amazing.

>>1576209
Rocks will still block yyour radio, so you still need a line of sight towards the drone. Watch TBS videos when they fly mountains, they never actually dip behind any rock or outcrop. I remember they had one accidental dip behind the mountain peak but a lucky breeze blew it back into the control zone and saved the wing and footage.
The R9 only gives advantage with foliage, but not solid rock.

>>1576243
Well yea I assumed so. Theres still a large number of mountain faces, gorges, canyons, and other shit I want to fly.

>>1576209

Ive been flying with the system for 4 months and its been 100% reliable.

I use the R9 system to punch through the woods we have around here. I dont have open spaces and mountains because I live in Michigan and its all forest.

I like the R9 system because its small and fits right into the radio. Uses very little power from the internal battery so its good to fly with everyday.

I use the R9 system for penetration. Like sometimes when its cold I have to fly from my car and when I was on 2.4 if I flew low out in front of me the engine of the car would block the signal and I could have a failsafe.

Or sometimes I fly from inside my house and fly in the backyard and when I was on the 2.4 system I could have failsafes when I was flying far and high over my pine trees. But with the 900 mhz system I seem to be limited by my video not radio link.

I fly at 800 vtx power most of the time because I dont fly with people.

>>1576451
With all that penetration power how are you still a virgin?

>>1576468
Ive taken virginities.

Just ordered my Syma X5C. Did you guys shill me.

>>1576748
Who the fuck told you to buy something like that?

>>1576777
The X5C is generally recommended for someone that wants a super cheap way into the quad world. Its not absolute shit, flies well, probably wouldnt survive a 5ft drop but its $40 so not a major loss.

I was flying at a park around some big trees and I was at a park bench under one of the trees.

About half way through flying my 8 batteries and I hear an animal climb down the tree near me and start chirping at me. He was squeaking and squawking at me and making all kinds of noises.

I landed my quad and lifted my goggles to look and about 2 feet away from my hanging to the tree was a chimpmunk looking at me and making a bunch of noise.

After a bit he just ran back up into the tree but it was funny he came down to tell me off.

>>1576964
Cool.