/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1548370
Contributions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

>>1548370
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w

>>1548370
http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/

Reposting from last thread, how bad would my life be if I bought a lathe that relies on VFD for speed control? The lowest speed it can give at 50Hz (EU) is about 300RPM, with a 5kw 3-phase motor.

>>1548487
if you can't go below 300 rpm you're going to have a hard time doing a lot of stuff if it's a manual machine

>>1548494
I can take it under 300RPM no problem, but I'll be going under the rated horsepower of the motor, as per VFD.
Like a normal lathe with a gearbox would have 10 [arbitrary torque] at 300RPM, gear it down to 30 RPM and you get approximately 100 [torque]. With a VFD I get 10 [torque] at 300RPM, set it to 30RPM, I get about 10 still. Basically it's going to be a lot weaker at low speeds than a normal lathe with a normal gearbox.

fucking dowel pins in aluminum

a press fit goes in crooked, locational fit on both pieces is probably better right?

>>1548487
make a countershaft?

what kind of tool would I need to make a metal stamp? like for a serial number or company name or something.

>>1548622
letter punches and a punch holder

>>1548631
I mean I want to emboss a piece of steel and then heat treat it so I can stamp parts with it.

>>1548637
I didn't have much luck making my own shitty letter stamp holder, but maybe you can buy one. The chinese ones from harbor freight are square shaped so kind of a pita, maybe you can mill square holes in two thin pieces of steel and space them out. Small end mill, or a square broach and a hydraulic press, then you just need round holes to start with.

>>1548637
cnc mill, engraving pantograph, etching.
or you could chisel it out if you're hardcore

>>1548647
I don't want to make a holder, I want to make a single block with words on it.

>>1548648
what kind of tool though? I assume the embossed letters have a draft on them so I would need a tool with an angle. I have some engraving tools but I don't know if those will work.

>>1548698
engrave it by hand?

some sharpened screwdrivers would be a good start, the metal has to be able to be hardened tho

>>1548698
D2 steel, 18degrees taper mill and 45000 rpm cnc mill, heattreat oven, aluminum foil.

>>1549258
or a 20k+ rpm router hose clamped to the spindle of a CNC

>>1549262

youtu.be/GmyjmKuIFwk

He/she could build himself a reducer/tracer contraption with a die-grinder like in this coin-making video.

>>1549258
so one like this? I think the mill I can use only goes up to 10k though.

Okay I need a tenth accurate height gauge, and I can't afford one.

I have an idea, if I can attach a cheap chinese linear scale (like for a DRO) to a 2 foot long linear rail's movement I can mount the whole assembly to a ground round or square block and then adjust it with my square standard until it's close enough to perpendicular.

Thing sounds a little heavy and expensive though, any other ideas? As it is I'm just going to have to use my surface grinder's Z height, as it has 50 millionths DRO in that axis.

This baby would be fabulous except

>$550 and no reader

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/61026811

>>1549596
>accurate to 2 tenths

>>1549589
50 millionths DRO is probably only accurate to 2 tenths across it's whole travel anyway

>>1549589
can you just stack gauge blocks nex to your part and measure the difference with a test indicator?

Anyone else start sweeping; organizing tools and sometimes doing machine shit before becoming a full machinist?

Any /fromthebottom/ bros?

>>1549589
Gauge blocks and a good micron indicator.

Anything else, like a real tenth accurate height gauge (not a chinese tenth, but an honest verifiable repeatable tenth) will start at ~10k. After that you're very easily into CMM territory. Even then having a set of decent gauge blocks is a must.

>>1549589
>Okay I need a tenth accurate height gauge, and I can't afford one.
What the fuck are you doing that you need something like that but can't afford one?

>>1549589

Either you're doing something wrong or you don't actually need accuracy to a tenth. 0.0001" over 24" is nuts.

What the fuck are you trying to make/measure?

>>1549589
Lad...

>>1549758
>>1549754
>>1549697
>>1549649
This, fucking guy has to realize that 10 degree F over 24" in steel will expand/contract just about 25 times his """tolerance""".

Anyone else here work with both helpless retards and usually intelligent guys that often have full retard moments?

Had the shop manager the other day tell me a small T handle hex wrench would tighten a machine screw more than a normal L key and then forced me to put an endmill into a collet past the start of the flutes to "make it shorter and more rigid". Then the shop clown cut a V into the top of a stripped screw instead of a square channel and wondered why it kept slipping.

>>1549589
>https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/61026811

Look in to a cadillac gage. They are kind of like a self contained jo block stack with rings a very accurate inch apart, so you zero your indicator at you desired height and compare to your part. You can probably find a decent used one for a bit over $100.

Probably dumb question but I'm not sure where to ask. I'd like to try my hand at gunsmithing and I'm not quite sure how to go about this. I know I'll need some machining knowledge and I have solidworks auto-cad software already. What are some good resources to learn from for somebody who is completely new and doesn't have access to community college at the moment?

>>1550050
nice try ATF

>>1550056
I'm no batfag, just a humble anon who'd like to fiddle around with making pistol caliber carbines.

>>1550061
learn shop class stuff. cnc is a must

https://www.cnccookbook.com/gdt-symbols/

Apprentice here. gotta make about 120 of these from stainless on the manual lathe i already did 39 of them. Any advice?

>>1550086
Hand file a lathe bit with that exact profile to reproduce copies at maximum speed and efficiency.

>>1550086
did you ever look at a speeds and feeds chart and it seemed like the cuts were WAY too aggressive? that sort of home-shop pussy preserve-my-toolbits thinking has no place in production.
on this little batch job chatter or a snapped drill won't wreck days of work, so you should practice removing metal at the fastest allowable rate.

>>1550097
Already ground an hss bit with the r2 corner and i have a carbide bit for the groove.

>>1550119
I do, with pre-turning it i run at 1400 rpm 0.5mm feed.

>>1550128
Forgot depth of cut;3mm so 6mm of diameter.

>>1550128
Bit of advice when talking about lathe speeds, rpm by itself doesn't mean a damn thing. Cutting speed is what actually matters, surface feet per minute (SFM) or surface meters per minute (SMM).

So with the info you gave us your cutting speed is about 175 smm (577sfm). For reference if I were to run a 50 inch diameter part with that cutting speed it would spin at 45 rpm.

>>1549754
I want to measure my tool height as accurately as possible for my budget bitch CNC machine.

I have actually had good luck with super precision projects in the past. Aiming for 1 tenth is just, in all honesty, a way to get fantastic results.

Doesn't matter though, going to use the surface grinder. It just means warming the machine up and getting the oil flowing before I can measure my tool lengths. Half a thou on my shitty height gage is just not good enough considering a Chinese "half a thousandth" is 1 thou or more.

My Harig 618 is made of good cast iron and has a quality DRO. Machine temp I think I might try to control better.

>>1549777
I considered that, but over the range of tool lengths I want to measure it seems a bit obtuse.

>>1550050
go watch all of the Anvil episodes with Mark on youtube, gunsmithing on old guns is a lot less machining than art, precision rifle manufacture or accurizing, well that might be different. Tom Lipton's short videos on lapping (oxtoolco) would be well worth your time to understand what is going on, and Robin Renzetti's videos on lapping will show you just how impressive a skilled machinist can be with superprecision projects.

Let me find a short video on basic precision rifle work.
https://www.youtube.com/user/spitfire1821/videos

This guy does work on bolt action rifles at least and accurizing and glass bedding and stuff is part of what he does.

>>1550086
They totally missed the joke.
Is it 120 of each, or 120 pairs?

im looking to get a small lathe for projects at home

are these grizzly bench top lathes any good

>>1550298
Not really.

They require a lot of experience and modifications to be as good as a second or third-hand bigger lathe. And usually you don't have that experience when you're just getting into the trade.

Bigger is better, if you're serious about buying a lathe you might call around local machine shops asking if they have any old lathes they want to get rid of. Of course check ebay and craigslist and facebook groups for machines too.

>>1550306
>>1550298
oh and there are used machinery places you can find online. Just moving a heavy piece of equipment is a big deal. An old South Bend / Atlas in good condition with lots of accessories would be a good choice over a chinese mini lathe, I think.

>>1550298
No all small """Metal""" lathes are fucking shit.

Find an old south bend. The only reason you should ever consider one of those garbage insults-to-all-lathes fetid faggot aids-ridden chinese bottom of the barrel sideways-powerdrill vomit is if you absolutely cannot have a tool that you can't lift alone and carry up a flight of stairs.

If you lift, even a South Bend could fit that category so yeah there really are no reasons to buy those fucking dumpster-fires.

>>1550298
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05vUCdzhoe4

>>1550309
>>1550308
>>1550306

its mostly a space issue since theirs no way im geting anything bigger than a bench top into my basement

>>1550316
>>1550311
I would say to avoid these mini lathes at all cost unless you absolutely CANNOT buy a lathe that you can't lift by yourself and go up and down a flight of stairs with it alone. Here's why - Like This Old Tony said in the video, the more time you spend with it, the grimmer it gets. I have the LMS version, the 7x16, it has a more powerful motor and I got the steel change gears. It's supposed to be the "best" version of the 7" metal lathe and after a few years of various use, I can say the following. The ways are so soft, I've dented them from dropping aluminum on them from a few inches up. Every way is cut with a bit of a taper, so if I adjust the ways acceptably tight at one end, it binds up by the time I'm at the other end of the way travel. Every way is like that. The tailstock plate that rides on the way isn't cut with a flat that sits on the flat of the way and a V section that sits on the V of the way, it's cut with a 45 degree angle that sits on one side of the V, and then cut straight flat so where ever the plate ends is where it contacts the way on the flat. The lever that locks the tailstock to the way is off-center so it bends the tailstock off the axis of the spindle, the only way to get a consistent tailstock lock is to use the nut and a torque wrench. Even then, the tailstock at best is 0.012" off from the center axis of the spindle. There is more wrong with this insult-to-lathes than I can type out. You may buy one of these and by luck, get one that isn't as bad as mine, but you just got lucky. DO NOT BUY EVER!

>>1550316
Get a south bend or and atlas it's really not that much bigger.

>>1550319
>>1550317
points well made il have to see what i can get for prices
this is just for hobby work
but i can get the chineisum lathes for like 500 with tooling so i might start their and see if i need the upgrade

>>1550317
you comment about soft ways is disappointing to hear

for the record i am a machinist and i do know the basics of a manual lathe but im mostly a mill guy

>>1550339
even my G0752 (which is a G0602 with a VFD and variable speed) which claims to have hardened ways has ways that are soft as butter and dent easily.

If you can, rub two stones together in your spare time to create a mostly-flat pair of flat-stones for deburring.

>>1550339
the tailstock and the compound suck on mini lathes.

I bet you the precision matthews is a slightly nicer Chicom machine. The castings on their mills are slightly better than the grizzly and other brand castings.

>>1550297
120 pairs, gotta drill them when they're put together too

>>1550050
school is your best bet because the good ones have tons of guns for you to practice on without being in deep shit if you break something. aside from that jerry kuhnhausen's shop books and chambering rifles for accuracy by fred zeglin are good resources. there's also larry potterfield if you can stand him.

>>1550284
>I want to measure my tool height as accurately as possible for my budget bitch CNC machine.
you're better off buying a tool presetter.

>>1549393
Something like that but flatend, not ballend... and with a 1/16 or 1/32 tip diameter, not 1/8... unless you're stamping highway signs.

how do you model non-mechanical stuff in cad/cam software? I was thinking about trying to make bootleg warhammer shit, but I don't even know how to start modelling something shaped like a person.

>>1550736
You don't, model elsewhere, then import STL.

>>1550741
mesh to brep buddy

STLs aren't cool

>lets generate millions of microscopic razor sharp barbed hooks that get into everything and then lets sprinkle them around our feet

Is this the worst machining job there is?

>>1550909
>power feed on
>shop vac on
problem?

does anyone know why setting 51 for the door override would suddenly disappear from the settings page on a haas vf-3? I'm sure it was turned on the last time I used this thing but when I went to run a part yesterday it was reset and I couldn't find it again.

>>1550909
imo flying chips aren't that bad compared to stringy swarf that hooks on a chuck jaw, plucks up the wad of turnings from down between the ways and turns into a flailing, coolant slinging, 300mph death brillo

>>1550934
This. I get some impressive dangerous strong chips.

https://youtu.be/DDmKqqbjcoo

This thing can make some impressive mess

>>1550926
If it's internet connected, there might have been a patch pushed through to remove the option by HAAS for """""safety reasons"""""
We got a brand new VF2 a couple months ago and it won't let you do fucking anything with the doors open. It won't even let you move the table unless the key is in setup mode and the spindle can't be on at all.

>>1550983
it's not. all of the other haas machines in the shop still have the setting. it's making it really hard to set offsets because I can't see my edgefinder with the door closed and I can't use probing.

>>1550926
is the door override switch connected?

>>1551064
I don't know. where is it? the last time it was run was like a year ago. then they hooked up a 5th axis to it and it's just been sitting there in the back of the shop. would being turned off while the 5 axis parts were plugged in make it disappear?

Here's a stupid question: what happens to the air when you press a dowel pin into a hole? The press fit should be airtight, is it always compressing at the bottom? Does the force of air on the pin cause problems in the future?

>>1551079
If it's a press fit, the compressed air doesn't really do a whole lot. Press fits are retard strong, a couple hundred PSI don't really matter.

>>1551079
the air pressure probably bleeds off around the pin slowly

>>1551079
Air is pretty fucking compressible.

To all Machinist, what is the best thing you have or you think you can make?

>>1548370
I'm a total newfag to machining. I'll get some spending money (about 8k€) by the end of the year and want to get into it as a hobby.
Thing is my old man works with wood and I would like to work with metal. I have absolutely no experience with it. I'm a CS "student" and I have a full time job as a wage slave (cable harness assembler).
How do conventional mills and lathes like the fine dust from wood? Will it cause problems by going into the creaks and on lubed surfaces and will I find attachments for wood turning for a metal turning lathe?
For both lathes and mills I'm looking at locally available stuff such as Prvomajska (ex-yu leftovers), Weiler, Schaublin, Colchester dated from 80s to mid 90s.
I'll get one machine for starters as I'd like to test the waters first and I'd have to get a lot of accessories for it (tools, tool holders, measuring devices, etc.)

Since I don't know what parts I'd like to make I'm a bit lost over the specs of each machine.
What I think I'd like for lathes:
>a center lathe
>working diameter around 200mm
>working length 750-1000mm
>power under 4.5kW
>not too big (length is not as much of an issue as width)
What I think I'd like for mills
>I'd get this later
>I watch this old tony and I really like the schaublin 13 he uses so I guess something like that

To recap I'm looking for a metric, Euro, lathe and mill. I have 3 phase at home, some space, an interest in machining and will soon have money too.

>pic semi related

>>1551339
Don't leave piles of wood dust on fine machined surfaces, they will rust them to shit in short order.

>>1551342
If we clean the machine after a day of work it shouldn't be a problem then?

hey /emg/, i'm at work trying to get a cnc-converted HF mini mill to work correctly. It's running off of a Probotix unity CNC controller, with Nema 32 steppers.

When I turn on the controller, the motors will not respond to input from Mach3. However as soon as I hit any of the limit switches, the machine starts to automatically move the X and Y axes, all while making a god awful grinding noise that isn't present while moving the motors by hand. Once this happens, I have to power the controller off and remove the USB connection before rebooting the controller, otherwise it will resume.

Any ideas as to why this is happening? thx in advance

>>1551167
made the imperial aquila on a water jet. pretty fun and cool in general.

I'd love to do the same but on a cnc mill with some 1/4" stock and send it to alfabusa

>>1551339
>I have 3 phase at home
oh fuck you, I've spent 6k on getting a converter and wire.

anyway, just start looking around. ask some friendly machinists if you could go and learn from them and ask to help them in anything they need. talk dirty (shop) to them.

>Fanuc 0T, 16T, 18T, 21T require the 6 digit p code.

I have a 0T, will the machine produce this p-code or will I need to edit my CAM software so that it will produce this code?

>>1551382
Sounds like something with your wiring. Post some diagrams of how you actually have it wired, not how you think it is. What have you ruled out already?

>>1551382
limit switch is correctly wired. checking motor wiring now.

>>1551421
Mostly everyone has 3 phase on the countryside here so nothing unusual for me. I feel for you though.

I know some teachers from our tech high school which I could ask to teach me the basics. I did some work on a small lathe years ago for a project but it was just some dowel pins and such.
>talk dirty (shop) to them
I really need to learn the local lingo though. I watch youtube videos and read English forums so I don't know what anything is called in my cunt. Machinists and mechanics usually have the most diverse vocabulary which might take longer to learn than the machine.

>>1551439
>>1551424
Wiring seems to be fine, though the Probotix datasheets leave much to be desired. That being said, I believe the motors came with the connectors pre-terminated, so it shouldn't be an issue.

I just found out that the Z-axis is doing the same thing. It's like every axis is trying to home.

>>1551479
check software side what your limits are set to (NC/NO) and how your homing routine is set to do, you probably need to do a homing sequence before you can move them in a certain direction. for the grinding noise, check software and hardware side for what your microsteps are set to, and make sure your current is set properly on the drivers.

>>1551422
I believe the CAM software should handle that assuming it works with 0T

>>1551530
Fixed the problem. The logic board requires a separate USB cable to power, so I plugged that in and it fixed the motors moving on their own (this movement is due to electrical noise).

As for Mach 3 not communicating with the machine, this was due to the parallel port to usb plugin not being installed. figured that out, installed it, and boom, thing purrs like a fuckin kitten.

>>1551422
I think it depends on the machine definition you have selected. whoever installed the copy of mastercam I'm using forgot to include the one for what we actually have so I keep having to manually rewrite shit. does anyone know if you can specify spring passes with the 1 line format or do you have to add g92 lines?

>>1551072
It should be just inside the enclosure, near the top right usually.

>>1551167
Well we can make cool 3d stuff, the cycle times are usually long though.

Old job shop VMC + 5-axis trunnion sitting on table = 5-axis model making machine.

Even a 4th axis is pretty impressive too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2fOnqqBEC8

>>1551339
man wood dust is gross shit compared to metal chips, clean it all off afterward or at least install some good way covers on the machine. If you buy a new machine make sure it comes with way covers.

I would get at least a 12" lathe ~304mm or so around 5 or 6 hp, 4.5kw is good, not less than 5hp or 3.72kw

man if you could find a horizontal mill with a vertical head like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJaQIfEStIA

those old K&Ts are pretty sweet machines, power feed standard and rapid feeds too. You will get tired of cranking handles pretty quick, and you can buy a $300 power feed add-on for most knee mills if it doesn't come with.

Since you seem like a young-ish guy, I might consider a CNC conversion in your future because you can do a lot more with it, with less tooling. In that case, a bed mill with ball screws would be awesome.

pic related is a bed mill out of a shipyard from the east coast, listed online for around $3k (protip, machines are cheaper around the coasts and ports and military industry but who can transport them across a big country like the USA cheaply).

before you buy the machine, make sure you can get spare parts for it. Doesn't matter who makes them, just that they are available. Big bonus if the company is still in business.

>>1551350
wood dust turns into gross-ness pretty quickly, keep them off the machine if possible.

>>1551382
might be a stupid question but, the movement locking levers aren't engaged are they? And most all I know about CNC conversions is that EMI is a real concern.

>>1551540
sweet, we might rebuild Western industry after all.

>>1550086
>manual lathe
>120 of them
sound like a nightmare

do you think tools like z tool setters and 3d indicators are worth the money? you're basically spending $600 to make your setups 5-10 minutes faster.

>>1551777
I would love if management would buy us a couple of these but "A 123 block or paper is good enough."
https://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/pro-touch-off-gage/

That said, I don't see much of a point in a $500 edge finder unless your shop has actual tool pre-setters or does a lot of high precision, one off parts that you have one try to get right.

.t guy that does 2-3 setups a day in a CNC job shop

FUCK

>>1551783
HOW

>>1551783
how the fuck

>>1551780
>>1551777
Although time adds up in a production shop and makes an automatic tool setter or probe kinda mandatory, many shops take that extra 5-10 minutes into account because a piece of paper is cheap and too many idiots crash into expensive probes or tool setters. It's all fun and games until your fancy over 9000 dollaridoo probe gets a full rapid disassembly.

>>1551788
I don't know, I was running the same facing cycle I do every day and it just went boom. Didn't even break the insert somehow

>>1551790
Was it even clamped? If it was loose, when your facing cycle started it could have wedged in somehow and broke it.

>>1551791
It was definitely clamped, I check every time that I run this cycle.
The tool only even touched the tiny nubbin from cutoff

>>1551794
Did someone mess with the clamping pressure?

>>1551783
>>1551786
5c collet I hope

>>1551783
Jesus Christ

>>1551788
True, shop manager has a couple machines he runs specifically because it's a small shop. He was making some fancy fixture that was +-.0005" all over. Spent like a week on the three parts and then last OP on the last part he smacks a fucking ER32 holder onto the corner at 50IPM.

>>1551783
lol that's what happens when you try to make a 5C shrink more than it's supposed to

should have went with ER collets, they have a greater range of contraction.

>>1551809
Material looks like hot rolled, you're right, it could easily be just a little too small.

>>1551810
could have been oversized too

>>1551809
Might have been it, it was the closest collet we had and was a bit oversize.
>>1551810
Nah, it's Nickel alloy. It looks like that on the sides because we use a plunge EDM that slugs out parts using pretty much off the shelf copper tubing.

what is this thread? u anons just like metal stuff? please only respond with images or short sentences/green text

>>1551852
saving Western industry/entrepreneurship.

>>1551692
Thanks for the advice.
I specified a 4.5kW limit because I'm running 3×20A breakers on 230V and a 5.5kW rated power. I might upgrade to 3×25A but no more because that shit gets exponentially more expensive.
This old tony has a Schaublin 13 which is a horizontal mill with a vertical head and they seem available in Switzerland and Germany so I might get that or something similar.
K&T mill will probably not be available anywhere in EU so I'm looking at brands that were made in Switzerland, Germany and Ex-YU.
Buying a machine made here will also make spare parts more available.
>protip, machines are cheaper around the coasts and ports and military industry but who can transport them across a big country like the USA cheaply
Since I'm coming from Slovenia that won't really apply to me. I'll most likely have to ship from central Europe (might even pick up myself if it's less than 500km away).
I don't know about CNC stuff that much. I think I'd rather just buy a manual mill first and worry about CAD and CAM later.

>>1551998
>. I think I'd rather just buy a manual mill first and worry about CAD and CAM later.
Probably you will pretty quickly get the urge for power feed and DRO which takes a huge amount of tediousness out of it. If you are careful about these upgrades connecting it all to a computer is simple enough, but plan ahead for compatibility

>>1550298
Buy one with metal gears. If you really like it you can always sell it and go bigger. Because everything besides plastic will be max depth of cut 0,4 mm

>>1552126
oh yeah DRO is important

>>1552126
As I said I'm very new to this so I need to set some things straight.
>power feed
Most machines I look at have power fed x and z but not the y axis.
Before buying I'd then need to look at options for mounting an external power feed.
They also seem to have mechanically actuated power feed systems. This would mean I'd need to convert it if I wanted to turn it to a CNC
>>1552253
>DRO
I guess what makes a DRO work is really important if you want to turn a mill into a CNC.
The display doesn't really matter in the end as you only need the linear encoders.
At work we make cable assemblies for a company that makes encoders so I could probably get my hands on three engineering samples if the machine doesn't come with it (a man can dream)
>connection
If I understand the name correctly a DRO is just an output, "a display" and has no connection to the power feed and spindle speed mechanism.
This means that there's still a load of equipment to be installed before you can connect it to a computer.

I'll research this further to really make an educated purchase but I already know one of the two will happen. I'll find a perfect machine that no one is selling or it pops up on the market and it's outside of my budget. In the meantime I'll just keep bumping the thread with questions that have been answered thousandfold (if you don't mind).

>>1552280
ballscrews + servos (or steppers if you are cheap) + servo drivers (step up the signal voltage from the PC end to power the servos) + VFD for spindle speed control + rotary encoder for rigid tapping (optional, tension compression tapping heads do work) + PC running linuxcnc or mach3/4 + card in PC for parallel output or another piece of hardware for USB IO + power supply to power the drivers

DRO style scales are optional on high end machines as a way to double check the actual movement of the table to what the servos think they have moved. Linear scales are not used in most CNCs, as the servos know how far they have moved and will try to correct if they have moved too far. Most linear scales will have a response time as well, try moving a 50 millionths (or any high precision) DRO scale and notice it doesn't resolve for a second or so, the ability of the scales to keep up with the machine movements will be a big deal. I guess it might be the reader part doing that stuff though.

Building a performance diy cnc you will encounter problems like the G forces when moving the table at full rapid suddenly coming to a stop and overpowering the servo, a max velocity limit is nice.

Other things, the ability of the hardware to perfectly synchronize 3d movements and stuff.

I think with a small machine a DIY CNC is totally worth it though. They build them for routers all the time too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiBEp6x75ow

With uncommon machinery it will be more involved to DIY the conversion.

>>1551998
hand wheels are in an odd place

I know tormach is supposed to be shit but are they really worse than trying to hack together a cnc mill out of a manual one? what about looking for a used mini mill or something?

>>1552384
my Tormach has been great, but there are certainly better machines out there for more money.

if you want to afford CNC tools you probably need to be able to make some money with your machinery

>>1552384
Used mini or tool room mill would be great if you can find one.

that feel when accomplish milestones like

>install flood coolant

Asking for a friend, probably a question you guys get all the time, but you don't have links in the OP like say /3dpg/

Is there a decent hobbyist CNC machine capable of doing aluminium under 2000€? Like a reliable chink kit? I think Google is only giving me heavily marketed sites like robotshop.com but I don't know which brands could be good.

>>1552724
2k is pretty damn low

like used Tormach 440 low.

>>1552316
So much good info. I knew I needed to jump online to get good advice before I decide on the machine.
I think I might call up my old prof. who has a small CNC mill he got completely broken and redid all the servos and electronics.
Maybe I'll just buy a 3k shitbox daily commuter car instead of something nicer to pour some more into my hobby to be.

Tell me this. Used mills and lathes usually come with some tooling (probably the unneeded stuff).
Do I buy tools as I need them and slowly accumulate them over time or is there any benefit of buying some sort of a set with little bit of everything?

>>1552869
the only "set" i would buy is used stuff, and drill bits, fractional number and letter, taps, etc.

and metrology stuff, mics, calipers, indicators.

>>1552869
a small surface plate is nice to have too, some 1-2-3 blocks that aren't shit.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00150003

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTqaKA2ZRgk

>>1553199
what is the purpose of this machine?

>>1548370
any resource recommendations for complete newfags such as myself? Local trade school only has classes when I'm working. Any books, intro to machining videos you can suggest I'd appreciate. There's a lot of "Jim's garage Machining" type videos that are shot with one hand and a mouthbreather behind the camera and I'd like something a little more professional. Anyways, stuff like running a mill, lathe, metallurgy/choosing the right metal for the job I'd greatly appreciate.

>>1553160
I'll get used mitutoyo callipers from work in two months after their calibration period expires.
>>1553169
That is almost a step too far for now. I'll be doing this as a hobby and will only get a surface plate and gauge blocks after I learn the ropes with the machine. For starters a smooth counter top shall do.

>>1553280
it's a horizontal mill with a vertical head, and a 90 degree head. It's a fantastically versatile machine for his job shop.

He apparently wanted another little lathe to use for things while some complicated setup is on his other lathe. Like the line boring video he made or something.

>>1553283
okay, two shop stones. Rub them together until you get mostly flat surfaces, I would do it while watching tv or something. Not quite a precision ground flat stone, but good enough. Can be used to deburr a flat surface without scratching the crap out of it.

if you take any old stone to the table or ways of a machine it might be removing too much material.

>>1553291
You lost me there. Are we talking about surface plates or flat grinding stones?

>>1553298
flat toolroom stones, for stoning flat surfaces

good to have

>>1553316
Oh, ok. Will keep that in mind.
I'm not yet checking the prices of all the peripherals you guys are recommending. Hope I don't get a stroke when I add them all up.
>inb4 twice the price of a used mill

Recently rebuilt the drive of my Bridgeport clones head (everything above the spindle bearings) and discovered the mystery hole at the back was for a grease nipple that was never fitted from factory. These variable speed drive heads are insanely simple but they have a heap more bearings than I expected. I gave it a good cleanout and put all new bearings in while I had it apart along with new grease and the missing grease nipple. Would highly recommend doing the same as its near dead quiet now aside from the old drive belt which is getting replaced as soon as the new one arrives in the post.

>>1553432
also discovered that what was left of the wick in the oil cup that feeds the quill/spindle bearings has been clogged and was getting bugger all oil, ended up snapping it when I tried to undo it so I bought one of these auto oilers from ebay and some 45 degree fittings along with an extension (all 1/8" BSP) obviously high risk that some sperg could snap it off so I'll remove and cap it for transport if I ever move the mill but its really nice to be able to fill it up when I start work and leave it to do its thing over the entire shift

>>1551339
Wood dust is very hygroscopic so will cause a lil rust but the worse part is that it'll generally cling to oily surfaces like shit to a blanket. on a mill for instance it will cling to the bottom of the table ways reducing the oil film and slowly work its way into the saddle until the oil lines get clogged. I'll pulled apart and roughly scraped a few machines that have been around woodworking and its crazy where the dust ends up. Avoid using compressed air around any machinetools and if you cant segregate your machinetools from the woodworking gear making some nice covers probably would help avoid 95% of your problems

>>1553435
do the flames make the spindle higher RPM?

>>1553473
They're red with blue contour.
>higher core temperature helps spreading lubrication and reducing viscosity
>outside of the machine still stays cold to touch

>>1553475
haha fucking dead, the mill came out of a harley shop, everything that I got in that lot was peppered in stickers, aside from the flames the mill out more or less unscathed

Alright gentlemen I need to use a relay to power my coolant pump. I have another cnc controlled relay running an outlet but the coolant pump will draw too many amps for it, hence the relay to activate an external power cable.

https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Harness/dp/B01MTQNJKM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549899461&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=relay&psc=1

is this what I need?

>>1553486
i wonder if anyone makes one with an outlet cord built in?

>>1553486
https://www.mcmaster.com/relays

shit

>>1553486
relays for AC motors are called 'contactors'

>>1553505
why do you need a special relay for a motor?

So uh..

How the hell would I use this? Ground goes straight from outlet to pump bypassing relay, always connected.

120AC input from wall outlet to "input" terminals and 120AC output lines to pump, but how is it activated?

>>1553517
I've only used DC relays, but I assume Live goes to 1, pump goes on 2, then when you connect 100-120VAC over 4 and 3 you turn on the pump. LOAD handles wall and pump, INPUT handles control.

Is there a CNC for Retards link I can take a look at? I want to mill wood, and at most soft aluminum, to make enclosures for electronics projects.

>>1553540
wood router?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBGqknN3gGs

>>1553540
download fusion 360 as well

>>1553509
motors are inductive loads, they abuse the shit out of switchgear. they draw 600% of their rated power during switch-on or if the rotor is stalled by a load. contactors are built for that and relays aren't.

>>1553575
Does that mean 0.4 amp fuse is not good enough to run a .3 amp 1/2 hp pump?

>>1553581
it's certain to fail, and it'll probably fail instantly, but i can't give you a hard number for that.
since we're dealing with a small motor that won't rip your face off, you can determine the ideal fuse empirically by jamming the rotor and applying power. pick a fuse that doesn't blow instantly, but does blow before the motor windings start to smoke.

https://businessofmachining.libsyn.com/

latest episode discusses why there are two "edges" on the tools I looked at a few months back.

>>1553981
apparently the cheap tools have that double edge deal going on, it's approximating a cylindrical arc to provide support to the cutting edge, apparently better tools are supposed to be a proper cylinder leading up to the cutting edge.

>>1553581
use time delay fuse rated to like 0.6A but .3 A sounds low for a 1/2 hp pump

>>1554001
yeah I thought so too, especially how much liquid this fucker moves.

>getting bird nest shit wrapped around my drill bit
>rewrite program so it spins backwards at high speed when it retracts
>call friend over to show how cool and skilled I am
>for some reason it completely stops happening
fuck

>rains outside
>machine starts sweating
I'm getting very scared it's gonna short out guys.

>>1554453
Feed harder instead of M04 you mook

>>1554453
it should be breaking the chips anon

>>1554467
you should be more worried about a power outage.... unless you live in a city or somewhere with a decent electric company

fucking co-op hippy shit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCTti7tDN3E

>>1554566
I live close to a hydroelectric dam so no hippy shit here

>>1554578
I love her nails.

what is the best way to set offsets for id grooving and threading tools?

>>1554924
Depends on a lot of things, how the part is dimensioned and measured, whether your using g code, conversational or CAD/CAM, what type of specific grooving tool your using.

>>1555079
I'm trying to make a cap that screws on to another part. g54 is the front of the stock. I use a drill to make a clearance hole and then bore it out to the right diameter, but then I have to cut a groove and threads. for the boring bar I can just take a cut and measure it, but I can't think of a good way to do it for the other tools.

lads
I have a couple questions for machinists.
1. Are there well known brands for miniature precision CNC machining? Like what's the "Haas" or "Mazak" or "Okuma" of the micromachining world?
I'm talking about machining small parts with a total workpiece size less than 2 inches, with decent positioning accuracy, perhaps as little as .0001"
>what do you need that for
I eventually want to build small things like clocks / watches and would like to do research & reading

2. How does a mazak get 0.0001 degree increments on the C axis? https://www.mazakusa.com/machines/integrex-e-800h/
Is it like a worm gear for fine-control combined with a rotary encoder for coarse indexing? Surely it's not a 3600000 pulses-per-revolution encoder?

>>1555085
>cutting tools
Harvey
>machining
Most quality machines can do 0.0001 repeatably, like Okuma, Mazak, and that sort of machine.

>small machining
You kinda have to look at that first and look at brands after that. You should invest in a good air spindle and then look for a decent machine that can use it, like a Fanuc or a Brothers. I'd get a good air turbine spindle and look for a micron-capable machine. I've worked with a Agie Charmilles Mikron UCP and they have really weird controllers but goddamn, what a machine. Having an air turbine spindle on top of that would really kick ass for micromachining. For any small diameter tool, you need as many RPMs as you can afford.

Expect to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxwmZ8eH1W0

>>1555083
Measure the other tools against the bore, then dial them in with wear offsets and trial cuts. What kind of tolerances are we talking here?

>>1555088
Cool thanks for giving some starting points. I've heard of air spindles used for single diamond point turning, and I remember now that Dan Gilbert used air bearings for his custom cnc lathe.
100s of kilobux is well out of my reach so I'll have to hire a shop to make my parts instead.

>>1555096
I don't have a bore gauge that can measure the groove. will the machine even pick up a thread if you rerun a g76 after turning the spindle off?

>>1555104
As long as you don't unclamp the part or turn the power off (for some machines) yes it will pick the thread back up just fine

>>1555104
As long as you don't unclamp the part or turn the power off (for some machines), yes it will pick the thread back up.

>>1555104
you could make some makeshift calipers to measure it, the old kind of calipers with no dial or vernier... you then measure the span of the calipers with a mic or something, pattern maker tools.

I'll even go take a picture of what I'm talking about for ye.

the round ring at the back is a spring and you can clamp them together temporarily to put them in/out the bore, then adjust the retention nut for a good feel, compress the spring, pull out, measure

>>1555085
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU_6cY3UBUI

Whoever was wanting an insert tool for woodwork, this it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQXU1LMfn64

>>1555115
how do I get the calipers out of the groove? I would have to close them to get past the threads.

>>1555297
wait nevermind I guess I get it. I think the easiest way is just to dykem the bore and move the tools in until they scratch it off. if it's over where the threads will be no one will notice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvM1zE7Zfh0

okay this is pretty cool, additive attachments for existing CNC mills, developed for consumers mostly with tax dollars

>>1551998
Don't blow all your money on a top tier machine. You'll need lots of tools to get started and to improve (especially measurig equipment).
Schaublin makes great machines but I'd get started with something that's locally available, these machines don't lose value anyway so upgrading costs nothing.
4.5 kW is a lot of power for a manual machine that size btw.

>>1555297
spring calipers? you set them to the size squeeze them in and when the tool exist the bore they spring back to the size you in in the groove

>owner finally bought a half dozen new collet holders after two new mills with no new tool holders
>they're the fucking cheapest no name shit
>literally no name, not even Shars or something
>the one I pulled out of the box has burrs everywhere including on the ends of the taper

>>1555542
fucking idiot, I always buy maritool or I try and buy similar quality.

quality tools = quality parts

>>1555554
It's crazy at the shop I work at sometimes. They'll spend $300 in labor to save $50 in tooling. They'll make us use chipped regrinds for stainless steel and then wonder why we have to run a 1/4" endmill at 5IPM.

I'm a third year engineering student and i recently applied at a cnc shop while i take a semester off. I just wanted to be an operator and take a break from school. What i got was a job offer as a cad/cam programmer. The shop didn't even have a computer that could run software. I had to build one. The owner bought a cad program last year and never opened it. Before this job i had never written g code or conversational. I can model pretty much anything in autocad and solidworks but the cam aspect is entirely new to me. My question is how should i go about learning cam? Right now we're using bobcad and it feels clunky. Anyone else experienced with the software? Pic semi related.

>>1555409
I'm budgeting around 8k€. Most machines that I look at run between 3-6k€. I think that should be enough overhead.
I thought I'd get something decent right from the start to save me the hassle of upgrading later and losing money.
I could probably sell the machine for the same money but all things considered I'd lose the money spent on shipping, etc.
I specified 4.5kW as an upper limit because that's what my electrical instalation can take reliably.
I'm in no hurry to buy so I'll keep looking.

>>1555613
the best way to think about cam is that you're making instructions for the machine to make your part. figure out how you want to do it and then it's just a matter of setting the right toolpaths.

/emt/ I'm so glad I don't work at my old shop anymore. A buddy of mine who still works there just told me about a mandatory meeting they had over the weekend.

>meeting is at 7:30am on saturday.
>buddy works night shift and gets out of work at 6am
>has just enough time to run home and shower before he has to go back.
>meeting starts, management starts off saying what a great year it's been for the company.
>the company has annual employee reviews every 6 months where they're supposed to give out annual raises
>nobody has gotten a personal raise in about a year and a half, mostly due to spotty business.
>meeting continues and they mention that reviews are coming up.
>say they won't be handing out raises
>after they started off with how good they were doing
>the next 3 hours are basically just them bragging about their sales team.

TL:DR, management dragged everybody into work on a Saturday morning just to wave their dicks at them for 4 hours. My buddy just put in an app at the new shop I work at.

I don't fuck with mills a whole lot, but I was perusing amazon for a few cheaper tools to fill gaps in what I have and came across this- Is it just me or does this seem like an ass backwards way to indicate a part?

>>1555623
Looks fine me, what's the issue?

>>1555623
The mounting to the machine superstructure just kinda seems weird to me, then using a vertical dial indicator rather than a ball end setup- Just seemed weird.

>>1555625
shit
>>1555624

>>1555625
The set up in the picture is to check for flatness

>>1555623

>>1550298
Garbage. I crashed mine the first day and destoryed the brass gears on the crossfeed. Fun to learn on and more foregiving than a big engine lathe.

>>1555623
as long as the mag-base doesn't move and the arm doesn't want to flex it will probably be okay

>>1555643
>i crashed it
>didn't destroy the tool just some replaceable parts
>garbage

>>1555724
Yes, what he said. Garbage.

Interesting...

Did you guys realize machines that are accurate and machines that give better surface finishes are not the same? Apparently accurate machines give worse surface finishes, at the very high end of machining, because hitting those important tolerances isn't great for finishing.

>>1555937

Bullshit.

>>1555942
I assume it's more of a 3d surfacing thing.

>>1555937
I'm working on a couple of extremely high accuracy machines, can you give examples of this?

>>1555948
Well it's all hearsay to me, but apparently some machine rebuilders say the highest accuracy machines will follow the programmed contours better than others and the surface finishes will actually be slightly worse than less accurate machines that aren't imitating tiny geometry changes at all.

I assume it's for 3d surfacing mostly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4m29Qx3mN8

advanced Fusion 360 cam

>>1555954
*modeling

how do I make fine adjustments to a thread when I already ran the program? I tried just increasing my wear offset and rerunning the thread cycle which eventually worked but it wasted a lot of time cutting air.
if my program is
>g00 x1.75 z.2 m24
>g76 a59 p2 x1.6905 z-.37 k.0297 d.0015 f.05
can I enter
>g92 x1.690 z-.37 f.05
in mdi and have it take another .0005 off or will it fuck up?

>>1555962
set a desktop or laptop up no more than 3 feet from the machine, do it in cam, post to machine, re-run

>>1555962
im not super familiar with lathe canned cycles. are you suggesting taking a cut manually in mdi mode to cut a thread? how will the machine synchronize and align the chuck and turret so it starts in EXACTLY the right place and time?

>>1555976
I have to write all my threading code by hand because whoever installed mastercam forgot to install the correct machine definition and the default posts code in the wrong format.

>>1555981
I don't know how it works. I was running the code in mdi to begin with. it picked up the thread every time when I reran g76, but I wasn't sure if it would still work if I changed to g92 or g32 to take a single chasing pass.

>>1555962
i assume the threading canned cycle is like turning cycles where there is a place for your depth of cut? just max that shit out to your final depth so it only takes the one pass.

Hi guys I'm the tard with the crapped out atlas lathe that is building a small steam engine, I have more questions

>>1556920
Today I made the components for the power piston/cylinder (blue in the diagram I posted... the piston is .3730ish and the cylinder bore is reamed at .3750.

I hadn't accounted for the rubber oring seal, and after I forced the piston in (breaking the pin hole on te connecting rod) it was too tight to slide freely. Is there a a way to calculate the required interference on the oring to make it deform enough to seal, but not create too much resistance? I have to turn a new piston so i can adjust my dimensions.

>>1556922

>>1556923

>>1556922
https://www.applerubber.com/src/pdf/section3-o-ring-basics.pdf

>>1556983
Thank you! Looks like I need to buy a .25x.375x.0625 oring and make my groove diameter .2625"

>>1556923
need tah break them edges anon

Hello! New to /diy/ shit. I want a small hand saw for cutting simple softwood planks, then hand joinery into household furniture

what kind of power saw should I be looking at? only requirements are that it is small and cheap!

Already own a scroll saw and very happy with it

>>1555937
That is complete bull shit. The type of tool you use as well as the feed rate are the only things that affect surface finish. The machine itself has little to do with it

>>1555952
>rebuilders say the highest accuracy machines will follow the programmed contours better than others and the surface finishes will actually be slightly worse than less accurate machines that aren't imitating tiny geometry changes at all.
I can think of a couple of reasons for this, and it could be due to overestimating the accuracy of the machine. I've seen this a lot with 3d printers.

>>1557148
Yes, once its brazed it all will get polished. Here is how the boiler looks

>>1557187
Because all the machines are capable of perfectly replicating 3d surfaces right

>>1556983
>>1557075
Just a quick update, it worked. It seals everything well, and the piston can move with fairly low resistance. One more piston assembly to turn, 2 connector tubes need cut and I can braze together the engine. The flywheel and cam should be interesting.

>>1557494

what is the best way to machine a part with a bend in it? I want to make a handle with a 90 degree bend in it.

>>1557516
Get a piece of tubular steel and bend it 90°

>>1557520
it needs to be solid.

>>1557528
Replace tubular with round stock.

>>1557528
If you have any concrete steps on your front door, smash one with a sledge hammer. There will be some pieces of rebar inside already bent at 90°

>>1557535
if I get it hot enough to bend I'll have to heat treat it

>>1557659
on a mill or a lathe?

can you fit it sideways in your 4-jaw and line up the center of the bent handle part?

>>1557671
I thought I could do one end on a lathe like that and then the other end on a 5axis mill but the dimensions might be too small

So it seems on steep walls fusion isn't so good at keeping it's optimal load with 3d adaptive operations, common sense would indicate separating the stair-stepping up a curved wall into it's own operation with a higher feed rate, but I think if I just decrease width of cut and increase feed rate then the feed rate for finishing the angled walls (with less chipload) will be faster and thus more efficient.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwjt90Qb5PA

>>1558453
Titan is possibly the most insufferable cunt, the video of him tipping over the manual lathes at that prison had me Livid.

I’m sure I won’t get any answer besides “Buy single machinist quality bits and build your own set for $1200 because everything else sold to normal people is garbage” just like the taps but...

Is there any sort of consensus on decent weekender tier drill bit sets like #1-#60 and A-Z that can drill a couple holes in steel without shitting themselves and won’t break the bank? Don’t even own a drill press (yet) so I’m not concerned if the bits aren’t lab certified to be within 0.000001nm of spec.

>>1558476
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/73285355
I own this set

>>1558476
Cleveland? That brand seems to be sold at the big name retailers (also Grainger). Pic related looks kinda reasonable if I don’t end up getting one of those $150-$200 115pc sets first.

>>1558480
That’s not too bad. But that’s just HSS, so no cobalt? Reviews look good.

>>1558476
everything but the bottomest-tier plastic suitcase sets will be OK and you shouldn't sweat it. precision holes get reamed not drilled.
>next up, a very special episode with guest presenter Captain Obvious!
never start drilling on a slope because the drill will walk off center and snap (chewing out a flat spot is the one time putting an endmill in a drill press is OK). always make a good center punch mark, and use a beater v-block for clamping round things. once a drill stops making perfect spiral chips stop and resharpen it: heat from rubbing instead of cutting will fuck up the temper of the drill and work-harden the thing you're drilling.

>>1558476
>Is there any sort of consensus on decent weekender tier drill bit sets like #1-#60 and A-Z that can drill a couple holes in steel without shitting themselves and won’t break the bank?

You already know the answer, why are you buying high tolerance drill sizes from low tolerance companies?
You are paying for precision.

Just buy the harbor freight set you cheap faggot

>>1558516
Meh, I don’t really trust bits or cutting tools from HF. It was like the tap and die set, I could’ve got a set for $30-$40 but that was worrying and then the people running lathes all day look down on everything a normal guy would have in his garage, but the $100-$150 sets seem to work fine.

I’ll probably take that approach with the bits. Maybe just get down on some Irwins. The Klutch set had good reviews from people who actually use them. At the very least I want to grab a solid set of quality fractional bits, like 29pc. Not trying to order from one of those industrial supply places though because they have retarded pricing since they’re used to billing the accounting department of a big company, not some idiot on 4chan.

>>1558521
>I’ll probably take that approach with the bits

Ignoring the advice of people who use them all day, and trusting reviews from whatever random retard posts them?
Go to harbor freight website, there are good reviews for their 30$ 115 piece drill set.
Youve made your mind up already and are looking for justification for something you should know better, you just aren't going to find it here.

>>1558543
You’re still off a bit. This >>1558480 was something I didn’t take into account, which is different from the people saying anything but the finest 108% cobalt blend and sharpened by a Rabbi in Pittsburgh won’t be able to drill through MDF.

>>1558546
the harbor freight drill bits tend to want to snap right the fuck off if you look at them wrong, but if they make holes and you have good workholding (i.e., not twisting the damn drill while drilling) they might be okay for a while.

>>1558546
>won’t be able to drill through MDF.

You've already been told, you don't need the extra drill sizes for what you do and what tools you have. And the sets you are looking for aren't giving you the tolerances you think you are getting.

You are wasting your time and money, because you like to waste time and money

I use a set of the cheapest "titanium" coated chinkshit drill bits I could find on eBay that came in a dirty plastic bag. Almost all of them needed to be sharpened to be usable, but since then they've been drilling fine, mostly in steel and sometimes aluminium, the only one I broke was the 4mm by doing retarded shit. Not that I've ever used $10000 professional drill bits, but it's comparable to everything average I've used.

>>1558551
Fammo, I think this looks perfect.

>>1558552
I like the DeWalt ti bits for wood, but I gotta get a fresh index, at least the 64ths or maybe the 60pc numbered ones. Those sets are all like 14pc or something without a ton of sizes. And I’m too lazy to sharpen my old bits but maybe I gotta get down on a sharpening rig.

>>1558552
rolingmetal is that you?

I love watching someone that reminds me of myself a few years ago dick around in the shop.

>>1558554
>drill america

ehhhhh.... they're made in China like most others, I bought one of their larger drill bits (7/8" or so) and the tip was all chipped up and needed sharpened. Not a very good drill bit endurance wise either.

>>1558556
or maybe the single I found on ebay was a fake or something

>>1558556
No no no... I don’t care about the quality of the bits, I want people to see I got cobalt on my belt and they will all be jelly as fuck.

For real though pic related looks nice. Or that Cleveland brand. I have no idea.

>>1558563
Buy Norse Viking bits

>>1558563
I bought a pack of small drill bits for the parts I'm working on from Walter Titex, they are fantastic little drill bits. Made in France, but they are pretty good. Some of them say Made in Brazil on the msc page.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01462084

I'd see if they make an index and if it's reasonably priced.

>>1558574
Walter titex is a decent tooling manufacturer, Walter Surface is an abrasives and CNC Grinding company. They are different, and I find it weird Walter Surface has branded drills.

>>1558577
Walter CNC Grinders, WalterTitex, and Walter Surface Technologies are ALL different

>>1558578
what does Walter Valenite do?

>>1558579
https://www.mscdirect.com/products/walter-prototyp

There's even Walter Prototyp

>>1558573
I have a 115 pc set and a 29 pc set of viking and honestly it's pretty shit for the price, I have had the 115 set forever now but I know I payed 92 dollars for the 29 pc set the only benefit is they are split point and chew through harder material when they aren't shattering mid cut.

>>1558690
Ive had nothing but good luck with Viking bits personally.
The "super premiums" with the ultra bore tip (pretty much a split point 135 with a slight helical tip) are some of the best running drills ive used.

>>1558552
>$10000 professional drill bits
i had some 2mm solid carbide drills (£5/ea) for making lockwire holes in grade 12.9 cap heads. cut was superb but if there was a millionth of flex in the clamping they'd burst into dust. that crunch sound is in my nightmares.

>>1558476
See
>>1558483
cleveland is good, dormer, and Chicago Latrobe are all good brands.

>>1558483
Why are you hellbent on getting fucking wire size drill bits?
And made of Cobalt, which you will use with a handheld drill. Youll be breaking bits left and right no matter what brand you buy.

Is any lathe under $300 even good? Will be turning almost solely wood, maybe copper or aluminum. Was looking at the apprentice 812 vs.

Do machinists actually know all this stuff in this book?

http://theminimachineshop.com/Technical/Machinerys%20Handbook.pdf

>>1558843
If you dont memorize it, you cant really call yourself a machinist.

>>1558837
You dont turn metal with a wood lathe.

>>1558843
it's a reference book, for double-checking things you already know, but aren't ready to bet your job on.
it's not a schoolbook, you don't take an exam and get a machinery's diploma.

>>1558864
Fair enough, is any wood lathe under $300 even worth buying? The apprentice 812 has a 5 year warranty, it uses MT1 taper though which I've heard can be hard to find tools for.

>>1558711
drill jig

>>1558889
wood lathes are mostly so cheap you should probably just buy it and find out

check youtube for videos of people using it

>>1558739
Was looking at the reference book for the taps and they have the appropriate size, plus the nearest fractional size. Some of them are letter and wire gauge. But now I’m thinking about just a good 64ths set, and maybe quality HSS and a sharpener over a $300+ cobalt 115pc set which I can’t even use with a hand drill.

See, but this is actually reasonable advice because the loudest cunts before were like “High cobalt or nothing!”

>>1558942
what are you even trying to make that you think you can be drilling and tapping with a hand drill? if you are making furniture or something just get a fractional set and use wood screws. anything you try to make out of metal without at least a drill press is going to come out like shit so you might as well not even bother.

>>1558942
you don't need a special drill sharpener or a jig. a normal bench grinder is fine for diy level drill sharpening, and it's a general-purpose tool you'll get a lot of use out of.

>>1558951
It’s more of an emergency fhing, I’ll get a drill press if I get into fabrication. But if I fuck a hole on something expensive and gotta drill it out and re-tap it, I want to make sure I have the right bits.

And the hand drill will get it done. It’s not perfect, but the bolts were holding.

>>1558963
When I was googling it, there were a whole lot of people saying to get the ~$20 jig to use on a bench grinder. I figure that’s the way to go instead of dropping $100+ on a Drill Doctor. Once I get the hang of how it’s done, I’ll toss the $20 jig in some storage bin.

>>1558889
Im no woodworker but
>apprentice 812

Look up the WEN 8x12 lathe on amazon, its identical and it has shitty shitty reviews.
I know someone who bought one, and promptly returned it to buy the Excelsior (rockler) / harbor freight 10x18 lathe.

Its a much much better lathe and still at the 300$ price point.
Also go ask the woodworking thread, they probably know better.

>>1558942
>Some of them are letter and wire gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/IVY-Classic-01668-High-Speed-135-Degree/dp/B0050PV69O/

>>1558989
That’s a good idea...

>>1559004
I'm sure somebody's already said it here, but you'd be better served in the long run if you bought a middle of the line Chinese set (HFT/ect) that has Letter/Number/Fractional and just learned to sharpen bits freehand on a grinder, there's no memesteel out there that will last any amount of time will with the crappy setups you have when your drilling by hand, any advantage an expensive drill bit has will be lost in a few holes if you can't resharpen it, plus it lets you screw around with relief and tip angles to get the perfect drill bit for your task.

manual machining can be pretty cathartic

>>1559021
Its more nerve-wracking to me

>>1559023
well you'll get the hang of it.

>>1559024
It is very nice to just get away from everything, and focus on something. Like a complex setup and getting the perfect cut with it. Its like a big puzzle

>>1559015
Is variable speed worth it on a bench grinder? 6in or 8in? Could grab a basic 1/2HP 8in without variable speed for like $60. Might grab that before a big drill set.

>>1559029
This might surprise you, but even a bench grinder can be shitty if you go too cheap.

Also, check out those CBN wheels they have now-a-days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOXXiPK1L4s

>>1558964
what kind of emergency? what are you going to have to retap? your shitty desk made by ikea? those screws are metric anyway.

>>1559029
Best bang for the buck is right here.
Cheap bench grinders are fucking AWFUL. Unbalanced and weak with flimsy hand rests.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Palmgren-82061-Bench-Grinder-Powergrind-1-3-hp-6-in-Wheel-Each/192758000079

Throw some white Norton wheels on it and youll be good to go.
This is a halfway decent cheap grinder.

Almost lost a finger today turning, was sketch. Anyone know a safe way to sand the face of a piece that is near the chuck so I can keep my drunken fingers away from the danger zone?

>>1559036
Piece of sandpaper on a stick, don't grip the stick too tightly either.

You shouldn't be touching anything turning with your fingers at all!

>>1559037
...but it's such an invigorating experience

I tried a stick but it kept kicking it out when I put too much pressure into the piece. Is there a trick to it that I'm missing?

>>1559029
Unless you're doing buffing/polishing there's no need for a variable speed, and you really want one with two actual grinding wheels so you can have a rough and coarse side, I've never had an issue with cheap bench grinders, as long as you true the wheel and bolt it to something solid there's not much to go wrong, you also shouldn't be using the rest if you're sharpening drills freehand since you need a compound movement that you can't get with a fixed angle.

>>1559030
>>1559035
I mean a 6” DeWalt is only $100, or 8” for $130. I wouldn’t buy it without reading some reviews and shoppin around. Maybe I’ll check Sears and see if they have any goofy deals that gives me a DeWalt or better Craftsman for $70-$80.

>>1559032
I mean yeah, I have metric taps and the little book has the number, letter, or fractional bit for it and the nearest 64th fractional.

>>1559040
The Dewalts are dogshit, and you are a retard if you are buying any Craftsman power tool, especially during the Stanley crossover era

>>1559041
>Craiglist.org
>Search for bench grinder
>buy 6" or larger for <$50 with stones included.

Literally one of the most common tools on the used market.

>>1559041
year okay retard

>>1559038
tape? maybe make a good stick for deburring

>>1559042
When was the last time you looked?
To find any decent grinder you have to get a smoking deal on a Baldor or Kalamazoo or even a Dayton grinder, or you are finding something old with torched bearings.

>t. own a Baldor, Kalamazoo, Palmgren, Craftsman Block, Harbor Freight, and several chinkshit bench grinders

>>1559044
Compelling.
Have you actually looked at the Dewalt reviews or seen then IRL?
Do you honestly think its a good idea to be buying Stanley OEMed power tools?

>>1559030
This guy doesnt know shit about CBN wheels
>they dont glaze or lose their bond, and dont need dressed
>they dont transfer heat to your tool
>blatantly misrepresenting how white aluminum oxide wheels get packed with material (when they should shear their material as designed)

I get he is trying to sell you something, but jesus.
They will last longer for sure, but its not worth the premium price at all, unless you are playing with carbide. At which point green silicon carbide wheels work fine too.

You arent going to be able to hog off a lot of material with a CBN wheel, it will take the versatility out of your grinder for sure.

>>1559047
The DeWalts have good reviews compared to everything else +/-$100. There’s a handful for $50-$70 like this Ryobi at HD, but the guide blocks and shields all look like they will fall off the first time you use it. That DeWalt looks simple and powerful enough.

Don’t be confusing decent home garage tier stuff and workshop quality that will be running 8hrs a day for the next two decades.

>>1559047
>When was the last time you looked?
30 seconds ago. 3 craftsman of various vintages, a b&d, a commander, an allied, and a taiwan import with some random branding.

If you are buying a premium bench grinder it is because you are suffering from severe mental illness. They are literally just a brushed motor with beefy bearings and some stamped sheet metal guards. Buy a used grinder for $40, use it for the 15 years it will last with moderate use and do it again when it does eventually fail. Bench grinders are disposable commodities.

>>1559052
>If you are buying a premium bench grinder it is because you are suffering from severe mental illness

Spending $100 to get a true running machine with cast aluminum guards is not some crazy "premium"
Its why I posted the Palmgren, its cheap, has good guards, and they run true. Unlike the Dewalt which dont run true and are sheet metal.

Also your idea of "using it for 15 years with moderate use and getting rid of it"
Yeah, those are the bench grinders you see on craigslist with bad bearings and worn brushes.

I have no problem with that, but dont act like you are saving a ton of money by doing so. You are buying a project or a junky grinder.

>>1559055
>I have no problem with that, but dont act like you are saving a ton of money by doing so. You are buying a project or a junky grinder.
No, some are those. There are plenty up because of shop downsizing, moving, or the idiot that owns it ate the bait like you and want to buy a premium brand. You obviously should inspect before you buy.

You are literally telling me that I am lying about the two grinders I own, and that my buddies are lying about theirs as well.

You are mentally deficient. Unless you are a wageslave shop monkey you will never need a grinder that can run for hours straight.

>cheaping out on a tool that can easily kill you if it fails
I seriously hope you keep a camera in your shop. I can't find a good video of an exploding grinding wheel on jewtube.

>>1559058
Why would a grinding stone explode from a cheap grinder? You are literally making no sense
>t. engineer

>>1559056
>You are literally telling me that I am lying about the two grinders I own, and that my buddies are lying about theirs as well.

Maybe we just have different standards for the tools we buy and own anon
Ive never found a good deal on a quality bench grinder in good shape that didnt need some maintenance done to it.
Could I have used my Kalamazoo grinder with the old shitty bearings? Sure I could have, and it would have continued to work, albeit poorly.
But seeing how I am a machinist and not some faggot buying a bench grinder to rough off lawnmower blades in my garage, I wouldnt allow it.

Sure Ive found cheap, shitty grinders that sat around and were used twice by some hammer and chisel mechanic to sharpen some lawnmower blades. But they are just that, garbage tools that have sat around a long time.
To me, if im buying chinkshit, its worth the couple extra dollars to buy something brand new with a warranty.

>>1559062
I was looking at a $100-$130 DeWalt, not some 99¢ grinding wheels from the Cuban Harbor Freight in Hialeah.

>>1559064
>Maybe we just have different standards for the tools we buy and own anon
>Ive never found a good deal on a quality bench grinder in good shape that didnt need some maintenance done to it.
Because you aren't looking.

>But seeing how I am a machinist and not some faggot buying a bench grinder to rough off lawnmower blades in my garage, I wouldnt allow it.
I knew you were a shop monkey. I already said if you are breathing grinder dust monday through friday you may need a higher end grinder.

desu if you are paid hourly you shouldn't be allowed to voice an opinion.

>>1559067
I’m salary, what do you fags want to know?

>>1559067
>Because you aren't looking.

Or you know, because bearing grease that has sat for 30+ years dries out, not to mention power cords get old and crack.
You know, stuff a hammer and chisel mechanic would overlook to save himself $20

>I knew you were a shop monkey. I already said if you are breathing grinder dust monday through friday you may need a higher end grinder.

You found a machinist in the eternal machinist thread. What a revelation! I am curious as to why you think I would be using a bench grinder all day long though. Thats more of a welders deal isnt it?

>>1558976
Did you friend mention what the actual problem was? The apprentice has good reviews on the site that sells it. Could care less if it breaks once a year with that warranty, which you have to pay extra for from harbor freight.

>>1558976
>>1559108
Also that wen has 4/5 stars so not quite sure what youre even talking about.

>>1559109
It's too small for much of anything and the motor is very very weak

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQCkhJW7GSM&t=0s

>roughing geometry insert endmill for aluminum

>>1559198
That wen supposedly has 1/5th of a HP motor, are the ones at 1/2 or 1/3 much better?

how do I avoid giant burrs when I'm cutting off a hollow part?

>>1559387
Yes the bigger HP motors matter.

You can't take a big HSS toolbit up to an underpowered bench grinder and expect to remove material quickly, it will suck ass for that kind of thing.

Ironically an old used industrial grinder might be fantastic for the price if you can replace the cord.

>>1559429
dull tool?

did you use coolant?

>>1559521
My personal experience is an underpowered grinder is easy to overwhelm and slow or stop the rotation when trying to remove a lot of material.

And because the part gets hot as hell and you never have a good way to hold it, it just makes it a miserable experience every time you want to use it.

>>1559521
So is 1/3rd HP a significant improvement over 1/5? As of right now my options seem to be the harbor freight at 1/2 or the Apprentice at 1/3. And since the HF costs extra for the warranty that the apprentice comes with Im leaning towards the latter. Id likely only be wood, since you said metal is out of the question, and likely not hardwood at that.

>>1559522
I mean how you get this shit where the part is flipping around hanging from a thin chip the width of the tool. I had to mash the estop today because a part swung all the way around and jammed itself between the chuck jaw and the turret. I changed to a different tool but it didn't really help.

>>1559576
oh I thought you were looking at grinders sorry

>>1559614
indicate the bore on center before parting...

>>1559734
Eh, whatever helps, Ive never paid attention to the HP of my tools. Bought a table saw and it works, bought a drill press and it works. Hell, my drum sander was built by my grandfather some 60 years ago and Ive had professional tools shit out while its never had an issue.

Tormach now Titan approved

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWk3P2xQwm0

>>1559926
probably sponsoring him now. I still don't trust their shit.

>>1560046
lol ok

surely it has nothing to do with his emphasis on education

New thread

>>1560121