/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Why is yeggi not in the OP any more?

First for pew pew.

Printer #7 comes back from repair service on Tuesday.

>>1538979
OP, Y U NO /3DPG/ IN THE TITLE?

Tore apart a bunch of inkjet printers.
Exactly how would I not be able to use the stepper motors and the ways in order to make my own 3d printer?

>>1539006
Are they actually steppers? Most inkjets I've seen use regular motors and encoders.

>>1539019
>>1539006

Yeah, and even if they are steppers they'd be pissant ones that aren't strong enough to drive a normal extruder or bed. A standard NEMA17 motor is like 10$. I've often seen this idea of turning old CD's or inkjets into a 3d printer but it's more of a cyberpunk fantasy than something that works in practice.

Why are ultimakers so expensive?

whats an acceptable leveling discrepancy for the x gantry. mine are within 1mm

>>1539030
pays for the marketing.

>>1539006
You can.

If you're using steppers, not DC motors and encoders, you're better off with ones from photocopiers or old laser printers as they're more powerful.

You can get away with x-axis steppers from old desktop printers as X and Y axis motors but they are usually slightly underpowered, the slightest deflection to the hot end will caused missed steps which will piss you off sufficiently.

DaVinci anon here. While they now let you use 3rd party filament and slicer I am not liking the fiddly wifi feature, I'd rather one which accepts a SD card like very other printer. If you were to recommend me a better printer what would you recommend? I basically want something that is enclosed, ready to go out of the box, under a thousand and not Chinese.

Or should I just give up on trying to find a cheap MakerBot clone and get a Creality or Ender 3?

Flashforge creator pro?

>>1539056
>I'd rather one which
>SD card
>enclosed
>ready to go out of the box
>under a thousand
>not Chinese
Prusa i3 mk2S and stick it in a box or cabinet.

>>1539056
Why not just replace the controller with an own board?

>>1539067
I have just found a guy in my city selling a Prusa calling him now.
>>1539071
I don't even need to do that apparently it does have an inaccessible SD card reader hidden under the casing that is used to hold the test prints but ehh it's the final straw, /diy/ has been telling me don't buy DaVinci and I can see that you guys are right, it is very locked down

>>1539073
>I don't even need to do that apparently it does have an inaccessible SD card reader hidden under the casing that is used to hold the test prints but ehh it's the final straw, /diy/ has been telling me don't buy DaVinci and I can see that you guys are right, it is very locked down
Ah, I thought you already owned one.

I called him and he said he wasn't selling anymore, he forgot to take the ad down but I offered him an extra 200 (really don't want to wait weeks to get it built and delivered) and he agreed. Going to collect on Sunday.

>>1539074
I do, the 1.0 white model. I bought it in 2015 but it broke and they've released a better model the red 1.0 Pro which I was considering seeing as it addressed my main gripes but it's still not amazing. Print quality is meh according to reviews and it will probably break down again in 3 years and I would have to buy their overpriced parts to fix it. /diy/ is right that if I want to move forward with my 3D printing hobby I should buy an open source printer.

It's a mk2 by the way, it's still good right?

>>1539056

You were about to get a chinese Davinci but now don't want anything chinese...

>>1539080

Have you attempted to convert the old 1.0 into an open-source one? The control board is crap but the motion platform itself should be pretty alright. Put an open source board and new hotend in there and bob's your uncle. You'd be getting exactly the printer you want for not a whole lot of $

>printed all the mods for ender 3 on thingiverse
>rewired power with 14 AWG silicone wires
>switched to MKS Gen L board with TMC 2208 drivers
>added fake BLtouch and glass bed
>added Pi 3 running octoprint
>changed to 40x40x20 noctua board cooling fan, 40x40x20 hotend fan, and 5015 part cooling fan
yeah I think I'm done for now

>>1539129
Now you can amortize the cost by printing dragon dildo molds

>>1539056
>under a thousand and not Chinese.
and I want french fries that don't make me fat.

Guys,

Ender 3 that I've put a lot of hours on so far. Extruder stepper started to "shake" the other day, advancing and reversing quickly. Not sure the right term for it, but I thiught it was bad wiring. Spliced in a new connector and no change.

Think it's the driver? I can't figure any way to figure out if it's the driver or not. I've searched high and low for and answer and everything I've read says it's either the wiring is wrong, or faulty.

Is it worth upgrading to a mks Gen 1.4 at this point? I've gotten a ton of use out of the printer so far and they seem cheap enough. Been reading too much and my minds numb about what to do now.

>>1538996
>>1538999
Chinkshill edition

>>1539129
>left: after modifications
>right: before modifications
p good overall, now it prints in gold

>>1539197
change ones of the axes to be the extruder and find out anon, it''s not hard

>>1539200
Done that. Extruder stepper works when the z, x or y cable is plugged in. "E" channel causes "shaking" on all other steppers.
I've tried every wire combination too for the extruder wires.

>>1539202
yep it's probably the driver then

>>1539202
also if you do long prints without the fan (or if the part cooling fan is off for the first layer), the extruder driver is the most likely to burn out first since it draws the most current and creality is retarded and only runs the motherboard cooling fan when the part cooling fan is on

>>1539097
they're Taiwanese, they're the good Chinese.
>Have you attempted to convert the old 1.0 into an open-source one?
I don't know enough electronics/coding to do this.

smol boi

>>1539244
spooky rabbit

>>1539250
>rabbit
thats a crow

>>1539251

>>1539252
thats one weird looking rabbit then

>>1538979
so if I just want to edit video game models files into printable models (and edit them to add holes and joints) which 3d printing software should I use?
I was thinking zbrush, autocad, or blender

>>1539256
blender

>>1539256
Blender. It's the most common software for game modders so you'll have an easier time finding how-tos for how to open proprietary formats with it. Autocad is a (bad) engineering software, it's shit at the kind of models a video game wants.

>>1539258
>>1539257
thanks my niggas

>>1538996
In the pastebin.

>>1538999
Because I fail at posting if it's 2AM and the old thread is on it's way to 404.

>>1539030
Marketing, design, user-centered design, it just werks (TM). Our school has 9 UM2s, and even after four years of abuse by students they keep on ticking with only minor repairs.

>>1539277
>In the pastebin.
Why not put it directly in the OP?
The current OP isn't even close to the character limit.
And even if it were, you could just replace the unnecessary google line with it.

>>1539285
Because nobody reads a cluttered OP, which is the entire purpose of a pastebin.

>>1539314
How does replacing google with yeggi make the OP more cluttered?

>>1537126
>>1537125
>>1537129
Here is my second attempt I stopped it because I can hear the nozzle rubbing against the plastic
Is my bed warped?

https://www.amazon.com/Filament-SUNLU-Dimensional-Accuracy-Printers/dp/B073LKLDV7/
Temp is 215/70 for the first layer .1 layer height

>>1539380

>>1539381

>>1539380

>>1539380
>>1539381
>>1539382
print out this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803
and yeah lowes sells cut glass for like $3

>>1539412

Has anyone ever tried filling the base aluminum extrusions of an ender 3 with sand or pond gravel to reduce vibrations? Any thoughts on whether this would appreciably improve print quality by deadening the frame?

forgot to disable the option "print support material op build plate only" and noticed it 10 hours into the print
luckily it will be structurally fine and not visible when done.

>>1539474

No that's stupid, extrusions are stiff enough, especially the 20x40 ones on X. Your vibrations are likely happenind somewhere else. If Y is bugging you, you could try adding two more for reinforcement a la mendelmax.

>>1539474
You could bolt it onto an MDF plate, like people do to stiffen CNC routers. You don't need that level of rigidity for a 3D printer, you'll get better results tightening your Y carriage and endstops, and the Z rods.

DaVinci anon here. I bought the Prusa. I love it. I am no longer DaVinci anon.

Conscription started so i haven't had time to post here in the past two weeks.
I've devised a solution for the storing of desiccant, a simple cylinder that sits in the middle of the spool, it has a lid and 1mm holes in the bottom and top, the lid is fixed on by simply running metal wire through the holes in the top and bottom and twisting the ends tight.
The lid and the cylinder both are designed to be printed in vase mode to save time though that is probably unnecessary for the lid.
Could have probably made the top and bottom holes by just printing without top and bottom layers and playing with the infill but i decided to give it a go in the modelling program.

>>1539508
It's a filament dry box in case people haven't seen/don't remember my previous posts

>>1539508
Where do you put the desiccant?

>>1539508
>Conscription started
Finland?

>>1539508
>>1539509
>dessicant
I stack my filament next to the kitchen sink, is this bad?

>>1539511
Up your ass.
Try reading.

>>1539515
If you don't notice quality issues with your prints, you're probably fine. If you get stringing, oozing, bubbles, or the filament pops while extruding, you might have damp filament.

>>1539511
you take the lid off and put the desiccant in
>>1539513
well yeah
>>1539515
probably not, just don't let PLA sit out too long and keep in mind which filaments require dry air

>>1539506

How did you get it so fast?

>>1539526
I bought a used one from a guy across town. It's sooo much better than the DaVinci, I can't thank /diy/ enough

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3358560

lol can Dobson stop ruining my hobbies

Brainlet here, I notice my printer's speed is depicted as units, and occasional prints on thingiverse use these as recommended print speeds. Anyway - what's a good all around speed for general printing? After flashing the firmware I noticed the print speed on my Ender 3 skyrocketed and now defaults at 60, but I also noticed a loss of quality and I'm wondering if the two are related.

>>1539532

Well, congratulations! Now you know what a printer is supposed to be like.

>>1539592

You can rarely go wrong with 40mm/s. But the printing speed is determined in the slicer, not the firmware. You probably messed up the steps/mm values or the feedrate for your motors.

>>1539592
60mm is a pretty common speed for a direct extruder Prusa-like printer, your Ender 3 is bowden-drive and should be able to handle at least 80, and probably even 100.

>>1539599
dude his firmware was probably capped at 40mm/s and the software was always at 60mm/s

>>1539605
dude wtf no that's not how it goes
the extruder weight is not the limiting factor at these speeds, the limiting factor is probably the grip of the extruder gear or extruder motor strength

>>1539508
>>1539513
>>1539521
You worry way too much. PLA is the least moisture sensitive filament. I left mine out in the air for half a year and it still prints fine. Canadian air mind you but I wouldn't expect finland to be more humid.

>>1539607

It's certainly possible, i've never really dealt with the quirks of "factory" firmwares before.

>>1539609
nigga i ain't gonna be using this thing for PLA

>>1539610
it's entirely understandable though, they want to ensure that their not so good printer doesn't print like shit so they cap their speeds

Thanks for the responses. I'm running a print right now that more or less failed earlier. The only difference is I changed the build speed from 60 to 30. If the speed is indeed causing problems this will be like night & day. If not I have problems somewhere else. The Amazonbasics filament could also be to blame, but I don't know if I'm ready to start blaming the machine just yet.

>>1539616
Lowering your speed will lessen the effects of all kinds of problems.

Perfect your prints at low speeds first, then ramp up the speed a bit and repeat.

>>1539619
I found the problem. Since literally nothing I do makes the PLA stick to the bed I've been using blue painter's tape. The PLA sticks to the tape, but as time goes on the tape sticks to the bed less and less. As the print gets taller it starts rocking back and forth causing all kinds of problems that I didn't notice because I only watched the first few layers. Nothing I do makes the PLA stick to the bed, and now the only method that does work limits me to a very short Z limit. Fuck me.

Should there be any play between each side of the z axis bar on the ender 3? I can grab the opposite side of where the threaded rod is and move it up and down a little. I cant seem to get it tight enough and still have it move freely enough to not feel like there are bumps on the rollers.

>>1539648
There should be NO play at all on those rails. It needs to be a very firm fit, and brute forcing one end up or down will make the other end move right along with it - if it's set up properly.

>>1539658
So is that probably my problem?
>>1539380
>>1539381
>>1539382

I think I will just take the whole thing apart and start over following this guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q

Is there a /3dpg/ discord?
Or a /diy/ one for that matter?

>>1539669
That guy is pretty good. Several work mates and I have ender 3s, and that was the best video any of us found to set up.

Careful with mods btw. You can lose z height with some of the stabilizer mods people post. Not sure it unless yours has z wobble problems.

>>1539474
>>1539497
>>1539503
He doesn't mean to stiffen the frame, he means to deaden the vibrations, but I don't think the small amount of sand added like that would even work. You're better off going after the source of the vibrations: the stepper motors. Get better drivers, or try installing dampeners on them.

>>1539515
Yes. Most filaments absorb moisture from the air. Also if you're not joking, having it next to the sink is just asking for them to be splashed with dirty water resulting in contaminates gunking up the nozzle.

>>1539508
>>1539509
It's a real neat idea, but usually the least complicated solution to a problem is the best. Also with pic related, you can use those gun safe reusable desiccant which makes drying the desiccant easier.

>>1539645
>nothing I do makes PLA stick
Can't see if you've mentioned, what material is your bed? Consider using glass and an 1:8 Elmer's Glue/water mix, works flawlessly for me.

>>1539732
>1:8 Elmer's Glue/water mix
or just make a couple passes with a glue stick

>>1539733
I don't like the surface texture I get from gluesticks, it's streaky. Glue mixture gets pretty much mirror finish on the bottom.

>>1539645
Get different blue tape. Different brands use different glue, and the heat on the printer can make even an apparently strong glue turn weak. Test around, it took me three tries to get a good blue tape.
Also, positioning your prints can be important. If the print ends on the edge of the tape, the tape is much more likely to tear off. See the pic for an example. Also, try printing with a wide brim and turning on tree supports in your slicer to get a wider "base".

I was thinking of printing a pegboard hanger for holding my Dremel flex shaft.
My problem is I'm not sure where to start, I've never designed anything. Maybe adapt an existing hanger design? I'm not even sure what program to use.

>>1539731
I like this, very clever.

>>1539748
First, figure out if you need to design your own. Thingiverse is pretty good for finding stuff other people have made, which can save you time and effort:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3231430
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404376

If you want to make your own from scratch, then I suggest learning Fusion 360 or Blender (both free; 360 is parametric, Blender is vertex-based). Start with making something that will reliably hold the tool in the pose that you want, then design a pegboard hanger. Iteration is key, your first design is very rarely the best. Combine the two designs when you feel each has gotten to a point where you're happy with it.

>>1539755
I was thinking of seeing if I could mashup the xacto knife holder I found with something that can hold the screw on end up while the rest just dangles strait down. And if it was dangling too much and getting in the way I could print another one out but with a magnet to keep it from swinging around.
There must be a term for type of hook I want to create, pic related.

>>1539771
http://albinupp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/garden-tool-hangers-for-garage-storage-diy-outdoor-hand-ideas-solutions.jpg
You mean like the things this guy is hanging drills from?
Yeah, that'd work, but you might find having the pretty long tool dangling like that to be impractical, particularly with the thick and heavy part lowest. If I were you I'd design the same holder, but hang the tool from the opposite side of the cord.

>>1539780
Yes, that slot type holder. Only reason I had it hanging from that end was I figured it would be easier to design the holder, it's basically a circle. Luckily others have designed a holder for the handle end.
When it comes to design I'm over my head. Do you have any links to articles that break down the types of software and their pros and cons?

>>1539795
If you don't mind living life on the edge, pirate Solidworks. Otherwise, Fusion 360 is good enough and costs nothing. These are "CAD" softwares, they're for designing useful things. The other guy suggested Blender, that one's more good if you're making things like D&D models and such. I don't have a link to such an article, because I don't think it exists. But basically, you have CAD software, which is used by engineers, and you have "modelling" software, which is used in video game development and stuff like that. Solidworks is the industry standard and honestly the best you're going to get as far as CAD goes, but if you don't want to pirate it it'll cost you a small fortune and for designing shit like tool holders it's overkill. Fusion 360 is like the "demo" version of AutoCAD, one of the big competitors for Solid. You also have stuff like OpenSCAD, where you use math and programming to design stuff (unlike the other ones I mentioned, where you basically draw shapes and write in how thick and long stuff should be), it's good but can be difficult to learn.
If you've found a handle holder stl, you don't need a CAD software. What you want to do is find a pegboard attacher stl that fits your pegboard, and then in your slicer (I recommend Ultimaker Cura if you don't have one already) you load both models up at the same time, use the move and rotate tools to slap them together, select both, and click "Merge".

>>1539801
> Fusion 360 is like the "demo" version of AutoCAD, one of the big competitors for Solid
I disagree, Fusion is its own program and is only really similar to other Autodesk products (AutoCAD, Inventor, etc.) because it has similar tools - which, really, any CAD program should have.

>>1539801
>>1539818
Fusion 360 is more like a spartan version of Inventor. It's pretty good though.
Inventor is the most comparable product to Solidworks. Autodesk is weird in that they have bunches of programs for different aspects of CAD and modeling, all for specific workflows.
Solidworks has a lot more features overall because it's only one software and tries to cover more aspects of CAD, but it can't compete in any specific aspect with the more specialized stuff that Autodesk offers. Example: Revit, Civil 3D, and Infraworks are all still "CAD" softwares, but are much better for building / landscape design than Solidworks could ever be.
If you want a paid software, it can be a lot cheaper to go with Autodesk, but they're still expensive as fuck. A lot is also personal preference.

>>1539616
Are you the ender 3 guy with stock bed?
You have an oil film on your bed, anything else doesn't make sense here. Strong indicator is also that the tape doesn't stick.
Give your bed a good clead with isopropyl alcohol (if not available use ethanol)
My ender 3 stock bed (removeable flexible model) sticks perfectly fine.

Just finished my ocarina

>>1539876
meant to reply to
>>1539645

>>1539648
No, there should be no play at all. If theres is play it'll fuck up your prints guaranteed.
You set the play with the excentric nuts.
Don't overtighten it either, its hard to determine in the assembled state, expecially for z.
You might want to take it apart and set the roller tightness right

>>1539696
Yes.
Just ask around /diy/'s Fortnite server for the URL.

>>1539251
it might look better to have the desk not go through the eye but around it. Like get the seam between neck and head to go through the crevice in front of the eye

>>1539896
*seam, not desk

I'm trying my new Anycubic Chiron, but I'm having trouble getting prints over ~5 layers to stick since they just get loose. This appears to be a warping issue (print just goes PLOP and comes loose at a seemingly random point) which I've never had with PLA, on any printer, on this scale.
>Innofil Pro1 filament
>0.8mm nozzle
>250C nozzle temp
>Tried 40/60/80C bed temp
>40mm/s print speed in Cura
>20mm/s wall/top/bottom speed
Only thing that differs from my usual printers is that I'm using to a glass bed where this has a fancy UltraBase (TM) bed which is supposed to adhere better than Van der Waals forces - but it doesn't. I'm considering just ordering a 400*400mm glass panel to solve this, but maybe I'm forgetting something stupid here.

>>1539876
Yeah, that's me. I tried again after cleaning the bed with Windex, I don't have isopropyl alcohol but that's going to be fixed later today. I also found out my bed is warped - it bows in the middle enough that the gap is noticeable.

>>1539876
>isopropyl
I wouldn't. Chances are any isopropyl you buy is going to be nail colour remover, which is going to foul the surface up even worse. Go to your local hardware store's paint section and buy a bottle of chemically pure acetone. Pour a few drops onto the surface, and wipe it clean with a paper towel (not the sort of towel that disintegrates when wet).

>>1539933
I would like to think the bottled 99% isopropyl that my pharmacy sells me is in fact isopropyl. Also, normal nail polish remover is acetone cut with water (I honestly don't know what the acetone free stuff is made with). At the very least, pure acetone doesn't do anything to PET, so your post isn't a total waste of space. 2/10, an effort was made

The rear end of a tank. my longest print so far, 12.5 hours. and fucked up support, but it turned out well

>>1539947
rear view.

>>1539947
>>1539948
looking nice, how are you gonna keep the tracks from skipping? those teeth look hella small

>>1539942
Acetone nail cleaner is banned or something here, it's all acetone-free, and acetone-free nail polish remover is isopropyl. 0/10, your post was completely useless and you should feel bad.

>>1539951
>and acetone-free nail polish remover is isopropyl
No, it's ethyl acetate.

>>1539950
I need to redo those drivewheels. the teeth are not the correct shape and the track wants to snap off without anything done to it. I probably need to make them a bit spikier like on a bike sprocket.

>>1539956
You ought to look up how to actually design sprockets, or just figure it out in your head, it ain't as simple as just drawing some teeth if you want to make a proper sprocket.
Or just download that there woodgeargenerator thingy and export the drawing into your modelling software.

>>1539956
Just making them spikier won't help. What you need is to tension the track (easiest way to do this is screwing the idler wheel into a long slot, that way you can tighten it whenever by just unbolting it and stretching it out) and making the sprocket thicker. When you use a dual pin track like this you need to grab on between the end connectors, and you'll get a more stable grip the wider it is. Single pin track doesn't have that problem since the sprocket can just bite into holes in the actual track itself. Widen the end connectors and sprocket cog by about 50% and it'll be fine.

>>1539956
>>1539965
Also, the drive horns on that track look very small. You'll be forced to use huge roadwheels (like on a T-34 or hetzer) to grab multiple at the same time, and even then I'm kind of dubious it'll be sufficient. If I were you I'd make them both wider and longer.

http://relicsww2.com/image/cache/catalog/product%20images/panzer%20other%20vehicles%20related/track%20links/2016%20summer%20+/IMG_9414-1000x1000.JPG is the kind of size you should be going for. Bigger is better, you'll have a very hard time making them too long.

>>1539956
>track wants to snap off without anything done to it
i guess theres no play in between the sprocket and chain and you have to force it on
making the teeth a bit more narrow could fix that
tension might fix this but you definitely wear it out quicker and loose some drive power, or something just breaks fast

>>1539960
i know. a testpiece with only 1 side worked out fine, but with both sides engaged it wants to pop off. even without any power applied.
not sure why, but i think it looks like a clearance issue in the length of the teeth.

>>1539972
this sound like the solution to my problem

>>1539965
the tensioning will be in the front of the tank. pic related. those 4 bolts can pull the tensioning wheel forward and change the angle to it stays on straight.
but it's not the fix, the tensioning would be too much to keep it on that it won't run properly i fear.

>>1539971
i am running 6 cm wheels on here, taking a minimum of 2.5 pins. for indoor use that will be enough.
i dont plan on running it outside a lot, that would wear the plastic tracks out too quickly

>>1539933
If it says on the bottle that it's isopropyl than thats propably whats in there. (Vinylfags are super autistic when it comes to isopropyl to clean their records. And never heard anything from that scene that bottles are mislabled)
And I never heard of Isopropyl nail cleaners. Isopropyl doesn't even dissolve plastic like acetone so what would be the point.

>>1539942
This basically

>>1539990
>but with both sides engaged it wants to pop off.
that means that your sprocket is incorrectly designed, look into it

>>1539922
Mines bent too.
The aluminum is warped but this can be easily flattend which I'll do soon.
The problem with this whole construction is that the surface sheet on the epoxy? carrier doesn't hold its form enough compared to eg. flex steel sheet metal. Magnets would also be a lot better to clamp it down evenly. Just 4 clamps aren't enough.
Even when the aluminum would be spot on flat there would be some high and low spots in the flex surface.
I also assume the bed surface l temp is 10°C lower than the set temp due to poor thermal coupling of this system.
But once you survive the first layer its not a problem anymore.

And I love the convenience of a removeable flex bed.

>>1539918
250c on pla? Is that within the specs given?

>>1540020
It's way, way more than should be necessary. PLA is between 180 and 210.

>>1540020
PLA starts to degrade when you go over 250C so yes it is barely within spec, he's clearly going for speed so the temperature is completely understandable.

>>1539801
Thank you anon

fuck creality and fuck niggers

>>1540020
Specs are 220-240C since Pro1 is a lot tougher than regular PLA. Bed temp is specced as 60.

>>1540026
If I turn the temperature down, the nozzle doesn't properly melt the material.

>>1540028
>he's clearly going for speed
40mm/s is pretty slow if you're used to running an UM2 with a 0.8mm nozzle @ 80mm/s.

>>1540063
With a .8 nozzle you'll get as much stuff printed with 40mm/s as you would a .4 nozzle at 80.

>>1540063
>40mm/s is pretty slow if you're used to running an UM2 with a 0.8mm nozzle @ 80mm/s.
well then i've got no idea what he's going for

>>1540064
Stuff looks a lot neater when you print low and slow instead of printing a small line really fast. I want to ramp up speed eventually, but right now my prints don't even stick.

>>1540065
I'm he - and I don't want to push my luck going 80mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle on a new machine with nonstandard PLA just yet.

>>1540072
at least bump it up to 60mm/s

>>1540082
Why? Speeding up usually makes it worse.

It's the anon with the warped bed again. Cleaned the bed off with windex first then 71% iso alcohol. Nothing happened. Out of frustration I started minmaxing settings and realized PLA was sticking if I set the extruder temp to 240. Reading into it, shitty PLA needs higher temps to melt, and it would seem you don't get much worse than amazonbasics.

>>1540082
>>1540086
Went back to 0.2mm layer height and 60mm/s, it sticks to about 10mm high now. I'm not using any fans to keep the filament flowing, I wonder if that will bite me in the ass once I get to the end of this benchy.

>>1540109
.2 is on the lower end of the layer height you should be using. The rule of thumb is half your nozzle diameter. With a .8 nozzle you should aim for .4 layers.

>>1540117
But then my hotend isn't melting the filament properly anymore. Pieces of my print are sticking up because they're not molten, and then the nozzle rams into them and kicks the print off the bed.

Rule of thumb is 75-80% of nozzle diameter is your maximum layer height, there is no practical minimum apart from the resolution of your Z-axis in most cases (0.05 or 0.06 on most setups). I've done 0.05mm layer height prints on UM2's with a 0.8mm nozzle and speeds approaching 100mm/s: great out dimensional accuracy on cylinders, almost no noticable layers, yet the print time is actually decent.

Print is halfway done now, looking pretty gud.

>>1540122
yeah man big nozzle, high speeds, low layer height is a hidden GOAT setup for general purpose use

>>1540127
And when you really hate your hotend components (or use a Volcano), you can use a 0.8mm nozzle, 80mm/s print speed with a 0.6mm layer height. Fastest I've ever seen a full 750g spool go: 6 hours.

>>1540128
Stop anon this hobby is too expensive as it is!

Is the 30mm fan on an E3D hotend adequate or should I print myself a new fan shroud and attach a 40mm fan?

>>1540137
It's adequate but there's always room for improvement. If you already have a 40mm fan then it's all that much better. Us ender 3 fags have to deal with 24 volt fans so all the extras I have lying around can't be used.

>>1540137
the purpose of that fan is to keep the heatbreak cool and it is completely adequate for that, keep in mind that it is NOT a part cooling fan

Hey guys I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2. Recently i've flashed the firmware to Marlin in order to use an autobed leveling probe.

However what seems to be happening now is that the motor that pushes the filament into the nozzle is now running way too hot and the filament jams. It's so hot that I cant even touch it for more than a second or so.

Anyone run into a similar issue? I imagine there's too much power being driven into the motor but i'm not too sure.

>>1540146
Are you certain you had the settings right when you flashed it? I know the TH3D version I used had to be edited to load the proper defaults for my printer.

>>1540146
just adjust the motor drive current dude, yours is set way too high

>>1540141
>>1540140
So I should go for the average here and make myself a 35mm fan. Gotcha.

>>1540158
No you shouldn't, don't touch the hotend fan, in fact if it's a Lite you probably wouldn't even need a hotend fan.
If you're printing PLA look into part cooling fans, those are the ones that matter, if you're printing ABS you shouldn't use those

>>1540168
What about PETG? What's a "Lite"? All I know is it's an "E3D metal J-head".

>>1540172
PETG benefits from a part cooling fan
>All I know is it's an "E3D metal J-head".
how is it possible that you do not know what hotend you have?

Rate my new tool rack

>>1540211
I love it. Got an STL?

>>1540222
Give me a few minutes and I'll look into uploading it to thingiverse.

>>1540180

"E3D metal J-head" is all you need to know, it doesn't get any chinkier than that. It's pretty funny they're still trying to capitalize on the J-Head name, that hotend hasn't been relevant for more than 5 years now...

>>1540222
Uploaded.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370143

Is thingiverse unbearable slow for anyone else? Been like this for months for me. I did see other people complaining recently. You would think this issue would've been fixed after having the issue for months.

>>1540251
In Blink browsers like Chromium, Chrome, Vivaldi, etc it's really bad. Other engines have it easier. It's quite pleasant on QT5-Webengine browsers like Otter-browser.

https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/List_of_applications/Internet#Web_browsers

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/sparkmaker-fhd-the-most-affordable-sla-3d-printer#/
Anyone have one of these? I'm on the fence about SLA printing, but I want the increase in small detail so I can print minis for my D&D party, and I dont want to spend the full $500 on the anycubic since I wont be using it as much as my FDM printer

>>1539412
How is that brand of filament working out for you anon?

I'm wanting to get a new 3D printer but can't decide between the Prusa MK3 and MK2S. I can afford either one, so it's not a matter of cost, but more of "do I really need those features?". So far, it seems like there's a filament sensor, quieter printing, removable bed, power outage detection, "shifted layer recovery", and a different type of extruder. I've never had issues with filament or power outages, layers have never shifted, and I don't really care about how loud the printer is. The removable bed is probably a nice feature, but I've heard there may be issues with getting the print to stick while actually printing (no source).

Did I miss anything? Anyone know of something that would push it one way or the other? I'm not taking arguments like "you could buy 4 cheap printers for the same price" or similar, so don't bother.

>>1540180
Like >>1540240 says, it's Chinese. The manufacturer doesn't know what hotend it is, so how could I possibly?
>>1540240
Are you saying I bought an obsolete piece of equipment?
>>1540285
Everything I've heard is that the Mk3 is inferior to the Mk2S in print quality, something about "inconsistent extrusion".

>looking for 3d printer boards
>find one that is quite interesting
>called sav mk1, designed and specified by a bunch of dudes in a forum
>form factor seems just about perfect
>had a moderately successful kickstarter campaign
>it's nowhere to be found

If this had a buck converter instead of linear I'd swtich my Rumba for it, but I can't even buy the fucking thing

>>1539669
Well I took about 2 hours disassembling and reassembling my ender 3 ive done the bed leveling print and things have improved. Im going to try that fan shroud again.

>>1540290
>kickstarter
You can't find it because only the one displayed on kickstarter exists. 99% of that site is scams, you pay a moderate sum for something modern they promise you'll get in three months, and then three years later you might receive the now very obsolete thing, which turns out to be so proprietary that you can't use it anyway.
Buy a RAMPS.

>>1540291
seems to be doing well

>>1540293
They did make more boards, but stopped making them

I lurk for quite a while and finally decide to post in /3dpg.
I have an old ass half Mendel prusa half designed by myself 3d printer, but I didn't used it for like a year, maybe more and I want to use it again (I will probably check everything, and calibrate it again, maybe put a new firmware).
I have a hotbed but never connected it because I use to print only PLA, so is it useful to connect it?
Is there other filament which gives good results but need hotbed?
I'm a Faggot for asking such questions?

>>1540149
>>1540154

Feel like a fucking dunce. As it turns out I had the plug for my heatsink fan plugged in the wrong way so it wasn't operating.

So my hot end would heat up like usual and the heat would seep into the filament motor and eventually the PLA would get flexible enough that the teeth on the gear couldn't bite into it.

>>1540346
I'm sorry for your mistake, but I still laughed.

What are some good show-off prints that can be done in flexible material like Ninjaflex? I'm trying out the Elastic Form 2 resin but I've never considered using flexible filaments or resin before so I don't know what's like the Benchy of flexible prints.

Best that I can come up with are reusable plaster dump molds and Twi'lek busts.

>>1539896
eh just something from thingiverse

>>1540338
PLA and ABS are the "default" filaments; PLA is better quality (visually) but ABS is tougher (and needs a heat bed).

>>1540406
ABS also sands like butter, takes paint well, and can be welded/smoothed with acetone

>>1540406
>>1540410
Yes, thank you but I already now that. I should have says so, sorry. I don't want to use ABS because of fumes, but indeed, it's easier to work with once printed (PLA tends to be "too soft" and is harder to sand as you said).
I was thinking more of Nylon or PETG? Or maybe charged filaments like copper or iron, or even wood ones?
Did a hotbed enhance adherence / quality?
Also, shall I buy a dedicated buses for it?

>>1540289
If you don't know whether what you own is obsolete or not then you shouldn't have bought it in the first place. It's not our fault you researched titties when looking for a 3D printer.
A fool and his money are easily parted.

>>1540441
I did check it out before buying it, it was super cheap and when I googled it I found a bunch of forum posts about how it's the "gold standard" of extruders.

>>1540441
You sound like a kike.

>>1540442
He means that it's a bullshit name. The J Head!=E3D. Chances are that what you bought is an E3D V6 clone with a ptfe tube. Of the "E3D metal J-head" product name, the only true part is E3D. It's pretty easy to tell if it's an E3D or a J Head clone, if there's heatsink fins and a fan on it it's an E3D, if it's just a metal tube, it's a J Head.

https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend
This look like the thing you bought? It's a good hot end, and even the clones tend to work out. If you plan on printing hotter than 240 degrees you'll want to buy an all-metal OEM throat for it, but for a newb printing PLA it's probably going to be alright. Just be careful cutting the PTFE, if you muck it up your nozzle is going to leak like you wouldn't believe.

>>1540289
dude you need to figure out what it is you've even got in the first place before trying to make decisions concerning it, for example if it is a PTFE lined hotend like many of the chink clones it will not even require a fan.

>>1540285
quality of life improvements basically, also those trinamic drivers are really sweet, the higher step count can be noticeable in certain objects, like big round objects for example.

>>1540442
what the fuck are you talking about?
so you bought some $3 hotend from aliexpress and think it's the same hotend as what those forum posters are talking about? jeesus

>>1540291
>>1540330
Looks better so far. Any clue what was wrong with the ender? Was it the wobble on the z-axis?

>>1538979
What is a good glue to use to glue things to PLA that won't come off?
I've used super glue and shoe goo before and they work great but i'm looking for something cheaper and in bulk

I have my printer calibrated and tuned perfectly to the point where i can press print and walk away without any "first layer watch"
now what?

>>1540517
CA glue

>>1540518
well uhh maybe now you can start using your printer for what it was intended for, 3d printing

>>1540518
Try more difficult filements such as flex or nylon and then tell everyone how badass you are.
Also print something with an actual difficult first layer with holes in it.
I recently printed a gauge with lots of small holes in the first layer. The skirt was always printing perfectly but some of the hole walls were coming off.

>>1540519
Is there anything cheaper?
I have a 2oz bottle of it but it doesn't save me much compared to just buying the small tubes.

>>1540521
PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU are all fire and forget for me (TPU only if dry though)
I might try my hand at Nylon soon actually, looks interesting

>>1540523
>>1540521
also my printer settings handle small holes perfectly fine
holes, writing, zig zags, etc all work find on the first layer

>>1540289
>Are you saying I bought an obsolete piece of equipment?

No, the actual J-Head (pictured) looks nothing like it, it was the most popular hotend in 2012-2013 so the chinese made sure to put that keyword in their bootleg listings. A couple of years later when E3D's all-metal V6 came out they started cloning that, but still put "J-head" in the listing for their crap. Seeing it in now is like seeing "New Gangnam Style 2019"

You got the cheapest, most bottom-of-the-barrel 5$ crap you find on aliexpress. I'm surprised you never did enough research to see that a hotend from E3D's own website costs 70$. That is not to say that the chinese crap doesn't work, plenty of people use them. But worrying about fan size is silly since unlike the original, it's a PTFE-lined hotend.

>>1540525
True, wish someone would dig through all the fakes. $70 for a new hotend is ridiculous.

>>1540519

"CA Glue" is superglue...

>>1540517

2-part Epoxy will hold really well but im not sure if you can get it cheap enough in bulk. Better try acetone - it may not smooth PLA like it does ABS but it's been proven to work well for solvent-welding.

>>1540511
It could have been anything but that was probably it. I took it almost completely apart and followed that video

>>1539669
This video really should be in the OP

>>1540538

how did i do

>>1540544
I'd be careful with these turbo shilled dampers.
Try it without them first and see if you really need them.
Some guys have removed them again because of stress issues with the belts. I'm also not sure if its precision wise a good idea to use rubber flex mounts for steppers.

>>1540544
kinda sorta uncertain if the CR-10 is really worth the $500
i mean that's just $100 from a Prusa and yeah the bed is big but still

>>1540556
prusa will cost me $1300 here

and needed a bed with atleast 280mm width

>>1540562
So everyone is joining the V-SLOT bandwagon, huh? I wonder what will be next fad

>>1540518
Now you start spending more and more money on different ways to "auto-level the bed"

>>1540562
>prusa will cost me $1300 here
wtf how?

>>1540579
Lineair rails.

>>1540579
V-Slot (rubber rollers running on anodized aluminum extruded profiles) is pure shit construcition wise.
I'm supriesed how good it works but I'd prefer something else anyways.

>>1540544

The dampers are useless. Still, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.

>>1540556

Those are kangaroo dollars, equivalent to about 350 hamburger dollars

>>1540589
I put dampers on my Ender 3 and it made a noticeable difference. Not as big as Trinamic drivers of course.

If you buy a Titan extruder clone, print a replacement cover first.
I broke the cover of my shiny new extruder in just a few weeks.

>>1540589
Dampers make a huge difference. So much quieter with them on.

>>1540596
Was it the one from Tevo?

>>1540591
>>1540597
Did you notice any print quality decrease?
Do the steppers get too hot?
Everything sits nice and tight?

>>1540596
also be ready to swap the extruder gear, my first one had way too small teeth and wouldn't grip the filament for shit

>>1540598
Nope, just a random one from Ali as an upgrade for my old printer.

>>1540591
>Trinamic drivers

Aren't the drivers in recent ender 3 models improved anyways, making the TMC2130 upgrade obsolete?

>>1540603
no way they've got the 256 or so steps, even chink knockoffs of those cost a lot

>>1540599
no (I didn't put one on the extruder motor obv)
no
yes

>>1540603
never heard this before

>>1540587
They're not rubber, they're delrin
It doesn't work that well, it's easy to wear down the wheels too much

>>1540599
My prints look the same afterwards, but because of the way the y-axis limit switch is mounted I needed to print a new offset mount for the stepper motor. Since the new piece is plastic it doesnt conduct heat into the frame as well as the metal creality one, so the motor heats up. It's gotten pretty hot, but even during a 12 hour print it hasn't missed steps. I'd recommend them, my printer is much quieter and there might be a better way to mount the y-axis damper now.

Alright, who here has the biggest di- I mean, printer?

>>1540682
have you ever printed something that big ?

>>1540692
Not yet.

>>1540682
i win

>>1540796
imagine a 3d printer that is just a little car with a spool on top and it kinda drives around on your model and instead of supports it has to print little streets to get on top of your model

>>1540803
eh, this is easier.

>>1540682
what printer?

>>1540901
Tractus T3000.

>>1540796
Bread on hood. Or printbed. Or hotend. Or the 5 story building you store that thing in.

Last time I checked biggest printer was 8000*4000*2000mm.

CR-10 with Marlin here.
I was having thermal runaway issues with the stock hotend so i replaced it with an E3D. And im keep having thermal runaway with a brand new hotend.
Pic related. Its pretty jagged because the part cooling fan was on and off.
The extruder output slowly saturates over time and after a while it cant keep up even when its constantly on.

Could it be the output MOSFET?
Whats a good substitute for the MOSFET (FDD8580 TO-252) that is used in the CR-10?

>>1540931
Have you ran heater tuning on your new hotend combo (heater and thermistor)? Make a mile of difference.

>>1540931
Do you have isolation for your heater block (silicone sock or similar)?

Also I find the default Marlin thermal runaway settings way too aggressive, you can increase the allowed heating time and/or lower the heating increase.

The fact that the same happens to a totally different hotend/thermistor/heater makes me think that the hotend and the firmware is not the problem.


>>1540934
Im doubtful but ill do it.

You can see the extruder output slowly drifting from on-off to a constant on state, that tells me that the problem is not with the control feedback system.

>>1540938
THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD is 40 s
THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS is 15C
I think these are not too strict.

>>1540938
>>1540941
No insulation on this one. I had some on the CR-10 stock hotend, made no difference.

Anyone did some enclosures ? I'm looking for ideas, I plan to make an enclosure with a vent system

>>1540926
Can you share what is the price for that?
Does it work well? What was the longest/biggest print?
Please share as much as you can. I am very interested in big printers.

So what's the big deal with these all metal hotend? The only issue I had with the old one was one clogged nozzle, and the one time I didnt tighten the heatbreak when it was hot
But my first print with the E3D V6 and the filament wouldn't feed, I let it cool down and took it apart and it looks like the filament melted to the inside of the heatbreak

Hey faggots with Ender3's, check this shit out.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/aifawm/a_review_howto_of_00napfkuchens_cr10ender3/

>>1540994
Not him but its apparently so expensive that you have to email them with your reason to buy one to even know the price

>>1540998
The filament should melt to the inside of the heatbreak, the lowest bit of the throat is in contact with the heater and so will be about the same temperature as the nozzle. The point with is is for the heat to not move too quickly to the other side, so the radiator can cool it down and not melt the plastic into your feeder.
The point of an all-metal hotend is that you can print at high temperatures. Usually hotends have a nylon tube, go too hot and it will melt, which is problematic if, for example, you want to print nylon.

>>1540998

Do an autotune to make sure the temperature is correct and check if the extruder's hob is grinding.

Over the last 2 years I have printed everything
What now?
What should I print now?

>>1541022
Nothing. Now you can rest, ما شاء الله.

>>1541022
Something mechanically functional that isn't some stupid tchotchke crap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8mpph8LrCs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU8Pq6ZNn1I

Oh and design it yourself, that is like 50% the point of 3d printing, that you can custom make whatever you need. You know instead of being a fucking normie that buys a toy to download toy files to print tchotchke toys.

>>1541040
>Something mechanically functional that isn't some stupid tchotchke crap.
That's what I usually print
>Oh and design it yourself
Now I mostly use it to help the business that I work at whenever something breaks or if they need a custom adapter for their machines

>>1541044
Well then the question should be "what should I design now?".

The world is your oyster with 3d printing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdYMi7hBREM

Make a full size version and become the first man to die from being impaled by an exploded 3d printed impeller.

>>1540931
If you have some external mosfet module around for your hotbed, you can just hook that up to the hotend and see if that works better.

>>1541040
>>1541044
holy shit I never thought of making an airsoft gun
Found my next project
I haven't been this excited since finishing my CNC 3D print

I printed the bullseye yesterday and do not understand how the fuck the side screws are supposed to hold it in place.
They don't engage and it kinda-sorta friction fits but I can tell the part cooling section is leaning forward a bit.

>>1541051
Now thats a good idea.

Ill try that tomorrow

my fucking printer is making a gap between one of the walls for no reason. its like a 1mm gap. The slicer and octoprint dont show it so I have no clue what the fuck the issue is

>>1541127
pic related. ignore the blobs along it, that is from the infill right before I stopped the print. It was a consistent 1mm gap

>>1541127
Check for clogs. Is your extruder clicking or backing up?

>>1541132
I guess it could be clogging? I havent heard anything out of the ordinary. I've been printing PLA at 190, but I'll bump it up and try again.

>>1541134
That's cold mane, 205C is a good spot.

Outer walls are printed concentrically so it would have to jam at that specific spot over and over again for a couple of passes to create that 1mm gap.

Weird.

>>1541134
What printer is it? Got a feeling there's a bump or a flat spot somewhere on one of your axis's... axeees... axi, whatever.

>>1541146
It's an Ender 3.
First time I've seen this issue. Is it possible there is an issue with the STL file, even though the slice and gcode appears perfectly normal?

Getting the slightest bit warping when printing abs. Warping is on the door side of the print but I dont think it really has more ventilation than any other side. Anyone know how to stop this type minor warping?

So, ordered a resin printer (Photon). Anyone have suggestions on safety precautions to take or enclosures I can make so I don't end up like pic related? Opinion seems to be very mixed on if there's a strong smell and okay to have in a room while powered off. Obviously I'm not going to drink the stuff or smear it all over myself, so please, actual advice appreciated.

how the hell do i draw this image in fusion 360

in blender, i would create a cylinder with diameter 125mm, then create a box using the middle loop cut of the cylinder as a mirror axis, then array that box around the centerpoint of the cylinder in 90 degree increments, done.

in fusion 360, the revolving is fucking confusing
my idea was to create a 90 degree segment of cylinder, adding the boxes manually on each side of the 90 degree segment, then revolving that segment 270 degrees to complete the cylinder with boxes at each 90 degree point but you cant revolve whole bodies, needs to be a face or edge

>>1540994
Price is somewhere around 35-38K including VAT. It's not my own printer, it's on at our university and I'm the custodian for this year.
Works kinda well, if you pray to the gods enough. 3D-printers have issues, and they all scale up in cubic form once you increase printer size.
Biggest print last year was a monocoque section for our racecar, took about 172 hours with a 0.8mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer height and something like 70mm/s print speed. Dunno exactly, that guy left the printer without much maintenance, or documentation on his print settings.

Personally I'd looka t something like a German RepRap or BigRep instead. I hate delta's with a vengeance.

So did anyone in these threads ever succeeded in making their own weeb figurine collection?
Judging by what I've read so far on the subject, it seems that aside from buying and figuring out 3d printer working process, I'll also have to learn 3d modeling and paint them on my own, right?
Is ender3 good for what I set out to do or do I need something more expensive, so that it doesn't look like pic related?

>>1541271
>>1540994
Here's some prototypes for that extremely long monocoque print. It's made out of two parts which are then laminated together with glue, hopeful prayers, and carbon fibre. Next year we're experimenting with a new type of filament with the carbon fibre already inside, printing the entire body in one go - but not on this printer, it's too small.

>>1540994
>>1541271
>>1541273
And here's the FSAE racecar that it all went into. Everything that's painted grey has been 3D-printed: monocoque, sidepods, nosecone.

>>1541270
Revolving is the equivalent of extruding. What you're wanting is a circular pattern.

>>1541280

yeah that seemed to work, but i was hoping for functionality similar to the array from blender: all of these spokes are 1 body each, instead of a body for all of them, which means i can't edit all of them by just editing 1 of them

>>1541281
You should really look through all the tool menus.

I don't know what you're doing to make each of those circular patterns a new body - they should be part of the body they're attached to. You did attach them and not just leave them floating in air, right?

>>1541284
These tools should be all you need to make the shape you want. Mine's a bit different because it uses a revolve and not an extrude but the concept is the same.

>>1541270
-make cylinder disk
-make hole in cylinder disk
-offset your origin planes to be tangient to outer ring diameter
-sketch the nipples there
-extrude them all as independend bodies
-???

>>1540539
>>1540538
This still looks like dogshit.
What material, temperature and speed are you running?
Ever tried any other brand of PLA?

>>1541146
I got horrible flatspots on my ender 3 rollers and my prints don't have this issue.
Recently I had a extrude stop because the filament did not unspool because of shit windings.

>>1540926
have you tried 3d scanning and then printing yourself on 1:1 scale?

>2.5 hours for this

what did i do wrong

>>1541308
>100% infill?

>>1541311
needs to be strong, theres going to be a pretty strong force applying inwards and it can't snap

>>1541312
Ok just print it,
over two hours is good for 0.15 layer height and 100% infill.

>>1541308
thats normal

>>1541308
should do 0.12 or 0.16 and/or enable adaptive layers

>>1540931
>>1540941
Run heater calibration.

>>1540603
>>1540604
>>1540605
Sorry I mixied up Trinamic drivers with TL smoothers.
TL smoothers don't do anything on recent Ender models.

>>1541259
As someone who occasionally casts with resin? You're fine as long as you've got normal ventilation and a functional liver. Photons already have a hooded enclosure, so any fuminess should be contained until you pull it up anyway.

What is the best knockoff Bondtech extruder I can find on Aliexpress? They arr rook same.

>>1541303
>1450mm max print height
I'm not a manlet.

>>1541272
I can only think of one anon that's even tried, and he only posted the 2 or 3 pictures of one model
Your best off with a resin printer, FDM just cant hit the small detail you'll need

>>1541272
nip twitter does it all the time, the good ones are all resin tho

>>1541258
pls

>>1541272
About the best you can expect from FDM. Totally doable if your weeb figures are larger scale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDW7g3JOqLA

>>1541436
enclosure

>>1541273
>printing the entire body in one go - but not on this printer, it's too small.
What printer will you print it on?

So this are not just prototypes. 3d printed parts are actually used as a monocoque? And then covered with one (or more?) layer of carbon fiber fabric?
What filament do you use? Are 5kg rolls big enough or do you get bigger rolls?

I think one piece printed monocoque is really good idea. Can you save a lot of weight with that or is it just like couple percents? Do you use infill as crumple-zone?

>>1541460
>What printer will you print it on?
BAAM.

>3d printed parts are actually used as a monocoque?
We were the first ones to do so.
>And then covered with one (or more?) layer of carbon fiber fabric?
Carbon fibre and some other stuff I may or may ot be allowed to disclose and I can't be arsed to find the NDA. Next year's car will be printed in a brand new type of material (not a filament) that's only recently come on the market, or another material that is still very much under NDA.

>What filament do you use?
Old car was printed in Innofil Pro1, new car is going to a different supplier.
>Are 5kg rolls big enough or do you get bigger rolls?
Biggest spools we've had were 8kg, and some parts require multiple spools. BAAM uses pellets anyways, so we don't need spools anymore.

>I think one piece printed monocoque is really good idea.
It's a two piece unit, seperated roughly in the middle so the front roll hoop could be laminated in - that part is mandatory to be metal.
>Can you save a lot of weight with that or is it just like couple percents?
We could probably if we were at the limit of laminating techniques but we don't have as much experience in that as the bigger teams. This year's car is going to be a bit on the heavy side because it won't use laminate, but FSAE is as much of a technical exercise as it is competition.
>Do you use infill as crumple-zone?
No, that is a standard FSAE part since testing the front impact attenuator (as it's officially called) requires several magnitudes more time, money and people than we have available right now.

>>1541439

I can't watch this video, it's just too much for me. Are all the weebs and figurine nerds this autistic? The prints don't look that amazing either, i'm pretty sure you can achieve better results with finer nozzles and soluble supports.

>>1541499
>Are all the weebs and figurine nerds this autistic?
Absolutely, in fact he edits his videos to try and make himself seem less autistic, even then hes actually fairly mild from my personal experience, but I am the director of security at an anime convention so I have a skewed sample base
As far as print quality goes, that's honestly the best your going to get with FDM with some tweaks to the settings and maybe a smaller diameter nozzle you can get a little better, but overl SLA or DLP is 100% the way to go for model printing

>>1541328
You want a medal or something?

If i change the plot scale to 0-250 my plot looks straight too. What an idiot

>>1541439
What the fuck takes 22 minutes in a video that should only 3 minutes?

>>1541517
Add revenue off course.

>>1541499
>i'm pretty sure you can achieve better results with finer nozzles and soluble supports.
The point of the whole video is the best results without spending more on it. And as much as I hate to admit it, I did not know I could use a layer height lower than 0.1mm so I did learn something. Guys autistic as fuck though.

>>1541443
It has one

>>1541524
Of course i didnt watch the video because it was insufferably diluted. No revenue for him i guess.

>>1541535
I'll summarize it for you.
>"Use this print profile I found on Reddit!"
>Spoof the printer into thinking every layer is the top layer by setting the top layer thickness to 99999999 and bottom layer thickness to 0.
>Set infill to 100%. Because fuck the idea of something being hollow.
>0.1mm is "fine" detail? Fuck that, try 0.05 or 0.04.
>A print that takes 1 hour fill look that much better if you slow it down to take 3. Try a print speed of 25 instead of 40 or 60.
>Supports for everything! Yay!
So yeah, basically everything you already know.

>>1541272
I have a resin printer and an FDM printer and I sometimes do mini-scale prints but its usually more like 1:18 scale or 1:12 scale.

Your resin printer will definitely get the printing done more reliably. For FDM, you can split your models up and orient the arms differently than the body for example to make the print happen with less support scars and if one part fails they don't all fail.

Even if you are using a resin printer it's nice to split up major parts of the model because they are easier to paint that way. On that note, your print quality will only get you so far - your paint job is where a model is made or broken. You can get perfect injection molded minis from your FLGS but then screw up the painting and ruin it.

>>1541557
>Spoof the printer into thinking every layer is the top layer by setting the top layer thickness to 99999999 and bottom layer thickness to 0.
What does this even do?

>>1540211
Looks tippy desu

>>1541272
This is from a year ago.

What the fuck happened?

Why is the CR-10 recommended over the Prusa i3 now?

>pic related of failure

>>1541696
Prints the entire model with top layer speeds and line widths (usually slower and finer). It's the idiots way of setting all the tool paths to be "high-resolution" without having to know what they're doing.

>>1541557
Thanks.
Have you thought making a youtube channel where you sum up things?

how important is the sd card slot? will I regret getting a printer without one?

Hey guys, let's try something new (I think)—a /3dpg/ discord! Join up and post prints: https://discord.gg/TtZ7Gba
If all's well and good, could someone add the invite link to the next thread OP?
/shill

>>1541751
Does the printer your getting have wifi? If not, will you be using octoprint? If not, will the printer be physically close enough to your computer to run a USB cord over to it?

If any of those was a yes, you'll probably never use the SD slot. Otherwise, you'll need an SD or USB storage slot to load gcode.

>>1541714
It's cheaper, has a huge buildplate and works.
The Prusa is more expensive, has a smaller buildplate, and works.
They have the same resolution, the CR10 can be modded to be direct-drive and even use the same hotend the Prusa does.
I guess when you stop hating China for 10 minutes and look at things in black and white, the conclusion is pretty clear.

Trying to set up my photon, can't seem to home it; when I hit Home it keeps lowering until the stepper starts grinding but doesn't stop. I can't set Z=0 due to this because the printer insists "Home first, then move Z to the bottom!" with only a "Yes" option. What steps do I take now?

>>1541761
Does your limit switch work?

>>1541764
Currently trying to figure that out, but I don't know how it's supposed to work - there's a metal tab on the Z carriage which looks like it fits into a small black clip of some sort at the bottom of the chamber. I don't know if it's supposed to be induction, light-breaking, or just regular old pushbutton, but when I try to home it just keeps going until it bends the tab (which springs back when I move it up, no permanent deformation).

>>1541764
Doesn't look like it's working. I can't figure out what activates it and can't find info online, don't think anyone's had my problem yet (or at least, hasn't posted anything about it).

Guess I'll try to figure out what the best way to contact Anycubic is.

>>1541754
discord is turbocancer.
Make a strawpoll which platform to use.

>>1541714
>>1541756
Both are very good printers and can produce high quality prints.
It's only a matter of budget and build volume.
The Prusa is higher built quality, better and more silent drivers, better direct extruder, better linear rails, better manual, better nozzle, better support, autolevelling, better firmware, just werks, flexible steel bed etc. etc.

You can also save money and go for the CR10 and mod the shit out of it if you are into that but the V-Roller construction will always be inferior.

Depends on what you are into and how much money you have.
For bobby hacking experimenting: CR10
For actual production environment: Prusa i3 mk3

>>1541808
>For actual production environment: Prusa i3 mk3
Wouldn't you want an Ultimaker or Lulzbot for that?

>>1541808
Theres also nothing wrong with getting a CR10 and a i3.
The I3 as a workhorse and the CR10 for build volume and experiments when needed and protentially equipped with a bigger nozzle.

>>1541815
Again, depends on your budget. The i3 mk3 is much better bang for buck that the Ultimaker. Ultimakers are very good but they don't really add much more and they're 3x the price.
I never looked at Lulzbots though.

For a business environment you could also look at stratasys for feautures like autowash supports etc. We got multiple Stratasys at work (automotive interieur manufacturer)

When I print overhangs (not extreme ones - they print fine with PLA) with PETG, the plastic tends to warp upwards a bit. Which then constantly hits against the nozzle.

Is there a good way to minimize that without having to use more supports?

>>1541272
You can use Daz studio if you don't want to learn modeling at first. Your figures might all come out at naked though.

>>1541839
Print or buy a better part cooling fan, besides that turn off the heated bed after the first few layers as the heat from it will radiate up through the plastic increasing its temperature and warping it.

>>1541858
I already got pretty strong part cooling, which I have to dial back for functional parts because it turns layer adhesion to shit.
But I did set my bed temps pretty high, so I'll try that - thanks.

Collage for next thread. DON'T FORGET TO PUT /3dpg/ in the title this time you wanker.

>>1541874
I like the old fancier font better.

Whatever happened to the original collage anon?

>>1541874
>you wouldn't download a car
kektus maximus

>>1541878
>I like the old fancier font better.
The Cheers one? I thought it was hard to ready in thumbnail format. I'll make a higher contrast silver version for the next thread.

>>1541756
This is one of the few times I really cant be upset with the Chinese
Because of their "if I make it in my factory its mine" culture they normally cause problems for American businesses that are still trying to get their hold on the market, but with 3d printing, and even hobby level CNC machining, they've managed to improve upon a few of the designs they stole and created several really impressive printers for the price brackets they can afford to sell them in

>>1539056
>>1539194
why not FT-5? I built it years ago and it's very solid

>>1539731
I put my PVC on 2 broken fan motors, as my bearings. It works fantastic. I just jb welded them to the box and then put the pipe on them with a 3d printed part as my "coupler"

>>1541714
It's not you dumb bitch, it's in a different price bracket.

only just got this working, it's a sub 12J air rifle that uses 12g co2 carts, it's nothing complex but i cadded it myself and i'm pretty happy with it, already thinking up improvements.

>>1541787
>discord is turbocancer.
Aside from your dumbshit opinion, do you have any facts as to why discord wouldn't be fine for a group of assholes to talk about 3D printing?
I mean we could do Mumble.

nu thread

>>1542129
Looking great, how far does the tube extend past the body? Might look good to print a vented rail piece to go on the barrel in front of the body there.

>>1542157
Aside from IRC, discord is the most accessible platform for average people. And it's free, and the audio quality is fantastic if that's your thing. And the file size limits are a lot higher than 4chan.

Plus, we already have a discord server made; don't knock it til you try it

>>1541766
There should be an opto switch, the printer should beep 2 times when its homed, (home fast then home slow)

Contact their support they seem to reply fast and are helpful.

NEW THREAD LADS

>>1542439
>>1542439
>>1542439