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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1536944 No.1536944 [Reply] [Original]

Best way to waterproof/weatherproof wood, without regard to appearance?

I'm getting a shoe brush that I'll leave outside by my front door, and I'm mounting it to a 3/4" oak plank so I can hold it down with one foot while brushing off the other.

What would be the best way to treat the wood so it doesn't warp or rot? I'm in Phoenix so it's generally hot and dry, but I'd like this to last a good long while.

>> No.1536947

get treated wood, make sure it's dry, and epoxy it

>> No.1536986

Paint.

>> No.1536999

>>1536986
like spray paint

>> No.1537024

multiple coats of polyurethane

or just get a plastic push broom and screw it down to a piece of scrap wood

>> No.1537078

>without regard to appearance

Polyurethane, painted on. Looks like shit but almost entirely seals the wood away.

>> No.1537095
File: 1.09 MB, 2202x1489, 1546373477478.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537095

>>1536944
Tar.
I forget how many hundreds of years old pic related is, but tar is why it still stands

>> No.1537101

>>1536944
>>1536947


Best way? Vacumn chamber and epoxy resin impregnation.

Best ways if you dont care, thompsons water seal, varnish, stsin first if u want paint. 1 or 2 times a year

>> No.1537105

>>1536944
>>1536944
From what I've heard, paint or marine varnish. Marine varnish is used on boats, so it's made to withstand weather, and temperature changes. It's also expensive, and needs reapplication periodically, but looks more like a poly.

Or you can do what they do to telephone lines or railroad ties like >>1537095

>> No.1537338

>>1536944
boiled linseed oil, or even raw linseed oil is very good for treating wood

>> No.1537375
File: 201 KB, 337x600, creosote treated poles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537375

>>1537105
>telephone lines or railroad ties

Those are treated with creosote, fyi. It seems to be the best long term solution. However, you can only use it with woods that you won't be touching because it is extremely irritating to skin.

>> No.1537381

You should use a naturally weather resistant wood like cypress, cedar, or ipe

>> No.1537525
File: 57 KB, 400x600, c3c325f67760b4ed68b92dd9353c2061.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537525

>>1536944
Why not make one of these? The wood would stay dry and you could just make do with an oil treatment.

If it isn't an option, I'd still go for the oil option, but reapply it more frequently.

>> No.1537540

>>1537525
Is this picture missing something? It looks like it's missing something.

>> No.1537544

>>1537540
Door mat?

>> No.1537547

>>1537540
A front step

>> No.1537556

>>1537540

A guard dog.

>> No.1537557

>>1536944
If appearance is of no concern, how about using a plate of outdoor-rated plastic?

>> No.1537654

>>1536944
Used motor oil if want something practically free.

>> No.1537656

>>1537095
This. Get some pine tar, OP.

>> No.1537774

>>1537338
>boiled linseed oil, or even raw linseed oil is very good for treating wood
It will make it momentarily water resistant. Won't waterproof, not even close.

>> No.1537894

>>1537774
you obviously have never used linseed oil

>> No.1537897

deck sealer

>> No.1537973

Flex seal.

>> No.1537976

>>1537894
There's a number of oils you can treat wood with that are not waterproof or protective. One exception being danish oil which is polymerized linseed oil, but not simply linseed oil. Are you referring to that?

>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil#Wood_finish
> Liquid water penetrates a linseed oil finish in mere minutes, and water vapour bypasses it almost completely.
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil
>When applied in coats over wood, Danish oil cures to a hard satin finish that resists liquid well.

>> No.1537978

>>1537894
Your are, at best, ignorant.

>> No.1538609

>>1537540
A solution to OP's question?

>> No.1540169

>>1536944
apply two or three layers of marine varnish

>> No.1540282

Flex seal

>> No.1540300

>>1537095
How does this compare to polyurethane and epoxy resin?

>> No.1542588

>>1537976
>>1537978
there is a reason militaries used boiled linseed oil to finish gunstocks. when donme right the oil does not just sit on the surface. it soaks into the grain of the wood and polymerizes. several coats are needed to make a waterproof outer layer
>One exception being danish oil which is polymerized linseed oil
linseed oil will polymerize on its own

>> No.1542614

>>1542588
And do you know how militaries "do it right?" Well... back when they still used wood for small arms anyway? They used tanks full of finish, soaked the stocks in the solution for extended periods of time, and used a vacuum as well. And it was still nothing near as good as you're saying. BLO sucks balls as any sort of weatherproof finish, is a total pain to apply, and doesn't look any better than any number of other finishes. I hate to even quote that prez/o/ guy, but it's basically the dovetail of wood finishes: totally useless and outdated.

>> No.1542671

>>1542614
my firsthand experience tells me differently

>> No.1542679

>>1536944
Waterlox

>> No.1542683

>>1536944
Put wax over the ends and leave it outside for a few months. Then plane it down outside to remove warpage and fix it up as you want. You're in the desert so it just has to acclimate to the outside lack of humidity, but it's going to get sun-damaged over time regardless. Sealing it with some poly will help keep it stable throughout the seasons and you can splurge on a uv-protective one but it's eventually going to turn grey like all desert driftwood.

Following doesn't apply to OP but it's general advice from what I've read because apparently others didn't see that the OP is in arizona.

1st rule of outdoor projects in areas that actually have water is: do not let anything made of non-treated wood sit on endgrain. That allows moisture and mold to penetrate the wood. Even if finished, scooting an object around on the endgrain will wear the finish away eventually and cause problems, especially if it's rubbing on a concrete porch or patio. Trestle-style feet are a simple solution for outdoor furniture.

2nd is to elevate it and allow for adequate airflow. Put feet on the bottom of chests and such. If the feet are wood, they have to be oriented with the endgrain parallel to the ground. But preferably they should be made of some other material that will be fine in contact with the ground, like plastic, rubber, coated aluminum, or just using (marine or outdoor grade) casters. As well, using several narrow planks with some gap between them will allow for the wood to dry faster plus permit dirt and grit to fall through when storms happen - similar to how lumber is stacked for drying.

Painting outdoor pieces works well but requires the finish be maintained regularly. But warpage will happen to wood left outside no matter what, and it will take decades to stabilize.

This anon also makes a good point:
>>1537381

There's several woods that are incredibly rot and insect resistant and will be much less of a hassle in the longrun.

>> No.1542705

>>1542671
And that's cool. A decent amount of my post is my opinion, but BLO as used on military arms is definitely not anywhere close to weather sealed/waterproof. I've shot 1903 Springfield's, M1 Garand's, and M14's in competition and I can tell you with 100% certainty that humidity affects the stocks on all of them and changes your zeros from day to day. 100+ years should've been plenty of time for complete and total polymerization.

>> No.1542974

Dude you're in Arizona raw oak would literally last over 50 years easy.

>> No.1543442

>>1536944
harvest it in january during a waning moon